磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇增强皮肤抗氧化和抗皱能力研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.010

摘要/Abstract

摘要： 文章旨在评估磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇作为化妆品成分的潜力，通过构建H₂O₂和UVA诱导的人皮肤成纤维细胞（HSF）损伤模型，比较磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇与未包裹白藜芦醇的抗氧化及抗皱能力。结果表明，磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇不仅能促进皮肤吸收，还显著提高其抗氧化能力。在H₂O₂诱导的HSF细胞损伤模型中，磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇在胞内活性氧（ROS）的中和能力显著优于未包裹的白藜芦醇。进一步分析表明，这一增强效果与经磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇处理的细胞中超氧化物歧化酶（SOD）、谷胱甘肽过氧化物酶（GSH-Px）以及过氧化氢酶（CAT）活性的显著提升紧密相关。此外，在UVA照射的HSF细胞中，磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇可有效降低基质金属蛋白酶-1和-3 （MMP-1和MMP-3）的水平，同时提高胶原蛋白Ⅰ和Ⅲ （Col-1和Col-3）的含量，具有显著的抗皱作用。研究成果可为通过磷脂酰胆碱包裹技术有效改善化妆品成分功效，从而改进护肤品配方提供重要评价标准和应用参考。

关键词: 磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇, 白藜芦醇, 人皮肤成纤维细胞, 抗氧化, 抗皱

Abstract:

The objective of this research was to assess the potential of phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol as a cosmetic ingredient. The hydrogen peroxide （H₂O₂） and ultraviolet A （UVA） induced human skin fibroblasts （HSF） models of skin damage were established to compare the antioxidant and anti-wrinkle properties between phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol and unencapsulated resveratrol. The findings reveal that encapsulating resveratrol with phosphatidylcholine not only enhances skin absorption but also significantly improves its antioxidant capabilities. In the H₂O₂-induced HSF injury model, phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol demonstrates a superior ability to neutralize reactive oxygen species （ROS） generated by H₂O₂ compared to the resveratrol group. Further analysis indicates that this enhanced functionality is associated with increased enzymatic activities of superoxide dismutase （SOD）, glutathione peroxidase （GSH-Px） and catalase （CAT） when treated with phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol. Additionally, in UVA-irradiated HSF cells, phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol effectively reduces the levels of matrix metalloproteinases-1 and-3 （MMP-1 and MMP-3） and increased the contents of Collagen Ⅰ and Collagen Ⅲ （Col-1 and Col-3）, demonstrating significant anti-wrinkle effects. These findings provide critical evaluation criteria and application references for enhancing cosmetic ingredients through phosphatidylcholine encapsulation, thereby advancing skincare formulations.

Key words: phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol, resveratrol, human skin fibroblasts, antioxidant, anti-wrinkle

中图分类号:

TQ658

帖航, 李琦, 朱翠翠, 袁旻嘉, 徐亮. 磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇增强皮肤抗氧化和抗皱能力研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2025, 55(6): 756-766.

Hang Tie, Qi Li, Cuicui Zhu, Minjia Yuan, Liang Xu. Phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol augments skin’s antioxidant and anti-wrinkle capabilities[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(6): 756-766.

图/表 8

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