多光子成像技术及其在化妆品评估中的应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.015

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

多光子成像技术是一种观察人体皮肤组织结构的光学成像方法，其原理是利用不同波长的近红外激光使皮肤组织中特定的内源性或外源性荧光物质发出不同的荧光信号，从而观测、区分皮肤不同层的特定组织结构。近年来，该方法开始逐步应用于化妆品的评估中，如评估化妆品紧致抗皱、祛斑美白、透皮吸收的效果等。多光子成像技术能够通过监测皮肤形态或代谢的变化评估化妆品紧致抗皱的作用、定量黑色素分布和含量评估化妆品祛斑美白成分的功效性或判断特定皮肤的类型、可视化化妆品成分透皮吸收的过程评估其功效性或安全性。该方法获得的客观、可视化图像可以为化妆品评估提供定量的数据结果，在皮肤成像领域有着广阔的应用前景，本文综述了这种在体、无创、精准的三维成像方法在化妆品评估中的应用和进展。

关键词: 多光子成像技术, 化妆品评估, 紧致抗皱, 祛斑美白, 透皮吸收

Abstract:

Multi-photon imaging technology is an optical imaging method that has been used to observe the structure of human skin tissue, which is based on the near-infrared lasers at different wavelengths. Endogenous fluorescent components in specific skin tissues or exogenous fluoresce-labeled substances can emit different fluorescence excited by the light, thereby observing and distinguishing specific tissue structures in different skin layers. In recent years, multi-photon imaging technology has gradually been applied to cosmetic evaluation, such as evaluating the effects of cosmetics on anti-wrinkle, whitening, spot removing and skin penetration. It can evaluate the effect of anti-wrinkle by monitoring the changes of skin metabolism or morphology, classify the specific skin type, evaluate the efficacy of cosmetics whitening ingredients by quantifying the distribution and content of melanin, and visualize the process of skin penetration of cosmetic ingredients. The objective and visual images have broad prospects which can provide quantitative results. This review summarizes the application and progress of this in vivo, non-invasive and accurate three-dimensional method in cosmetic evaluation.

Key words: Multi-photon imaging technology, cosmetic evaluation, anti-wrinkle, whitening and spot removing, skin penetration

中图分类号:

TQ658

张嘉琪, 吴凡, 韩雨晴, 刘琦, 王俊杰, 盘瑶. 多光子成像技术及其在化妆品评估中的应用[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(5): 605-613.

Jiaqi Zhang, Fan Wu, Yuqing Han, Qi Liu, Junjie Wang, Yao Pan. Multi-photon imaging technology and its application in cosmetic evaluation[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(5): 605-613.

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多光子成像技术在化妆品评估中的应用"

评估内容	皮肤层次	自发荧光团	检测信号	多光子技术成像结果
紧致抗皱	角质层	富含角蛋白的角质细胞和细胞间质	检测到强烈的TPEF信号	随着紫外线照射的增强，表皮皮肤层NAD（P）H的荧光寿命增加^[26]
	颗粒层	胞质内含有少量线粒体、黑素颗粒的扁平细胞	检测到较弱的TPEF信号
	棘层	胞质内含有许多线粒体、少量黑素颗粒的多角形细胞	检测到较强的TPEF信号
	基底层	胞质内含有许多线粒体、黑素复合体的柱状细胞	检测到较强的TPEF信号
	真皮浅层	胶原纤维、弹性纤维	胶原纤维能产生SHG信号、弹性纤维能产生TPEF信号	随着年龄的增加，SAAID自体荧光衰老指数=（a-b）/（a+b）（真皮中SHG的像素为a，真皮浅层处自发荧光的像素为b）降低^[20]；ELCOR弹性蛋白和胶原蛋白的比率（弹性蛋白特异性自体荧光信号和胶原蛋白SHG信号的比率）增加^[22]；年轻皮肤中胶原纤维呈无定形、中年人的胶原纤维分布呈直线形、老年人的胶原纤维分布呈卷曲状；年轻皮肤中的弹性纤维呈直线形、老年人的弹性纤维分布呈卷曲状^[21]
祛斑美白	角质层	细胞间隙中的黑色素颗粒	检测黑色素的荧光寿命信号	与对照组相比，视黄醇处理区域受试者表皮中的黑色素含量明显下降^[31]
	颗粒层	排列密集的扁平细胞	检测黑色素的荧光寿命信号	与日光暴露区域相比，受试者非日光暴露区域皮肤的黑色素含量显著降低，并随着色素沉着现象的加重（黑色素浓度增加）差距变小^[29]
	基底层	含有大量黑色素细胞	检测黑色素的荧光寿命信号	与日光暴露区域相比，受试者非日光暴露区域皮肤的黑色素含量无明显差异^[30]
透皮吸收	角质层	ZnO纳米颗粒	ZnO纳米颗粒的自发荧光寿命信号	ZnO纳米颗粒的荧光寿命信号只出现在了角质层最上层的沟槽，在活的表皮细胞中没有检测出荧光寿命信号^[36]
透皮吸收	真皮浅层	重组人源胶原蛋白（R-hc）	被红外荧光探针标记的R-hc产生的荧光信号可以与内源性胶原纤维的SHG信号相区分	被红外荧光探针标记的R-hc使得皮下的荧光信号随着时间的增加而增强，通过三维重建可视化了R-hc，其通过毛囊和皮脂腺渗透表皮到达真皮层并形成网状结构的实时动态过程^[33]

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