化妆品透皮吸收试验方法概述

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.12.010

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

概述了化妆品透皮吸收的途径和理论,介绍了扩散池法、胶带粘贴技术和光谱方法等体外和体内的透皮吸收的评价方法,提供了评价化妆品透皮吸收能力的新思路,展望了化妆品透皮吸收评价方法的发展趋势。

Abstract:

The approaches and theories of skin penetration of cosmetics were summarized. The in vitro and in vivo of transdermal absorption, such as diffusion cell methods, tape stripping and spectroscopy were introduced. A new idea for evaluating the transdermal absorption capacity of cosmetics was provided and the development trend of the cosmetics skin penetration evaluation methods was proposed.

Key words: cosmetics, skin penetration, evaluation methodology

中图分类号:

TQ658

宋艳青,盘瑶,赵华. 化妆品透皮吸收试验方法概述[J]. 日用化学工业, 2019, 49(12): 824-829.

SONG Yan-qing,PAN Yao,ZHAO Hua. An overview of skin penetration test methods for cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49(12): 824-829.

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	ATR-FT-IR	CRM	FLIM
光谱范围	400~4 000 cm^-1	40~4 000 cm^-1	激发波长：700~850 nm 发射波长：350~620 nm
结构特征	具有红外光吸收特性	具有拉曼光谱特征	具有荧光基团
皮肤检测深度	角质层	表皮层（<100 μm）	表皮层和部分真皮层（<250 μm）
优点	制样简单、扫描速度快、灵敏度高、分辨率高、实时原位跟踪、时间短、光谱范围广、操作简单、无红外聚焦热效应影响	制样简单、时间短、无创、可在体检测、分辨率最高、可检测水溶液待测物	无创、可在体检测、特异性强、灵敏度高、可定量、不受光强度影响
缺点	定量分析不够好、间接分析技术、依赖于标准方法数据库	受荧光背景干扰、受激发强度过高影响、检测灵敏度低	分辨率与成像速度相互制约
在化妆品透皮吸收检测中的应用	促渗剂（乙醇、丙二醇、DMSO、脂肪酸）、表面活性剂（蔗糖月桂酸酯、卵磷脂、烷基糖苷）、纳米防晒剂	维生素A、促渗剂（DMSO、丙二醇、氮酮）、咖啡因、化学防晒剂（甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯、水杨酸乙基己酯、二苯酮-3、二甲基PABA乙基己酯、苯基苯并咪唑磺酸）、油脂（霍霍巴油、石蜡油、甜杏仁油）	纳米防晒剂（ZnO）、化学防晒剂（水杨酸乙基己酯、二甲基PABA乙基己酯、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯）、荧光标记脂质体