灵芝美容护肤作用机制及其在化妆品行业中的发展现状

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.02.011

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

通过对不同产地、不同生长条件以及不同种属和部位灵芝成分的综述,阐明了不同条件下灵芝成分的差异性;概述了灵芝的美容护肤机制,总结了现阶段含灵芝的化妆品品牌及成分,并分析了市场中灵芝化妆品的开发缺陷以及技术上的不足,旨在为灵芝在化妆品中的应用提供一定的理论基础。

关键词: 化妆品添加剂, 灵芝, 应用

Abstract:

The differences of components of Ganoderma lucidum from different origins, different growth conditions, different species and parts were summarized. The molecular mechanisms and the cosmetic brands and ingredients containing Ganoderma lucidum at the current stage were outlined in this review. Then, we pointed out its development defects and technical deficiencies in the market through the above analysis. This review aims to lay a certain theoretical foundation for the application of Ganoderma lucidum in cosmetics.

Key words: cosmetics additives, Ganoderma lucidum, application

中图分类号:

TQ658

王倩,张佳婵,王昌涛,安全. 灵芝美容护肤作用机制及其在化妆品行业中的发展现状[J]. 日用化学工业, 2019, 49(2): 118-125.

Qian WANG,Jia-chan ZHANG,Chang-tao WANG,Quan AN. Cosmetic mechanisms of Ganoderma lucidum and itsdevelopment in cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49(2): 118-125.

图/表 3

表 1

表 2

表 3

市场上含灵芝的化妆品的产品及其功效宣称"

品牌	产品	成分	宣称
圣罗兰	灵芝修护面霜	赤芝茎提取物	含有能帮助细胞再生的灵芝精华复合物,通过激发细胞间的交换,激发细胞再生,并达到改善的效果
丝芙兰	灵芝抗皱修护晚安面膜	赤芝茎提取物	滋养皮肤,平滑干纹和细纹;使肌肤细嫩、光滑
悦木之源	灵芝菇菌健肤水	赤芝提取物	保护细胞和蛋白质免受氧化侵害,并能中和细胞中有害金属离子,抵抗外界污染
La celler	黑灵芝修护原液	黑灵芝提取物	赋活修护、奢养紧致
屈臣氏	灵芝孢子精华美白面膜	赤芝茎提取物	保湿润泽,祛暗沉,作为营养物质有助于胶原蛋白的合成,使肌肤保持丰润亮白
品牌	产品	成分	宣称
缔凡	灵芝精华露	红灵芝茎提取物	滋养肌肤,修复激活细胞,并能抵抗炎症反应,加强皮肤自身抵抗力,延缓肌肤衰老
THE tsaio	灵芝橄榄叶紧肤乳液	中国灵芝提取物	多糖多肽可以促进和调整免疫功能,延缓衰老;调节代谢平衡
春娟	黄芪灵芝滋养水润面膜	灵芝	添加天然灵芝多肽,促进水油平衡,长效营养保湿,预防肌肤干涩、粗糙
羽西	生机之水灵芝调理液	赤芝茎提取物	精纯灵芝孢子多糖能显著提升细胞能量,帮助加速肌肤焕新
美加净	灵芝长效保湿霜	紫芝提取物	富含氨基酸和多糖,能帮助迅速渗透干燥肌肤,补充并保持水分,给予肌肤有效水润呵护
百雀羚	无暇透白紧致眼霜	黑灵芝提取物	内含丰富的多糖肽、核苷、酶、有机锗,具有良好的净化、赋活肌肤、新陈代谢,缔造完美妆容
馥珮	灵芝睡莲水漾润颜睡眠面膜	灵芝	改善肌肤干燥、粗糙、缺水现象,提升肌肤弹性和细滑度
修正吉白草	驻美肌灵芝弹力蚕丝面膜	白鹤灵芝提取物	蕴含活力,深度滋养肌肤,提升肌肤紧致度
魔法医生	灵芝菇菌舒缓健肌水	赤芝提取物	强健肤质、提高耐受性、对抗氧化和衰老
一叶子	灵芝弹力臻颜面膜	黑灵芝提取物	缓解肌肤暗沉、滋养肌肤、调节水分、嫩肤紧致
法兰琳卡	灵芝焕采眼霜	赤芝茎提取	滋养、抗衰
可易	薄盖灵芝舒缓保湿水	薄盖灵芝提取物	提高免疫、抗氧化、加快代谢
安菲奈尔	凝芝系列	赤芝茎提取	滋养、保湿
养生堂	灵芝赋活精华原液	中国灵芝提取物	保湿
爱后	灵芝精萃亮肌修护精华	中国灵芝提取物	滋养修复
片仔癀	灵芝多效修护眼霜	赤芝茎提取物	富含多糖、多肽,促进细胞内DNA的合成能力,有效抗皱
才木始	灵芝酵醒精华水	赤芝提取物	保湿、抗衰老
美肤宝	灵芝珍品活化精华	赤芝茎提取物	滋养保湿
汉皇亦品	灵芝修护精华水	黑灵芝提取物	保湿,滋养
白皙	灵芝营养抗皱精华霜	赤芝提取物	抚纹抗皱、紧致润肤
同仁堂	灵芝水凝补水面膜	黑灵芝提取物	防止脂质体过氧化,保护细胞
卡芙兰	灵芝清透爽肤水	黑灵芝提取物	补水
相宜本草	紫芝系列	紫芝提取物	灵芝多糖、灵芝酸、灵芝总碱起到滋养抗衰作用
佰草集	太极养美系列	紫芝提取物	滋养并促进肌肤能量再生

表 3

参考文献 48

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活性成分	作用路径
灵芝三萜	可诱导超氧化物歧化酶（Superoxide Dismutase,SOD）、过氧化氢酶（Catalase,CAT）、谷胱甘肽过氧化物酶（Glutathione Peroxidase,GSH-Px）的产生,并抑制蛋白质和脂质过氧化^[28,29]
灵芝多糖	1）捕捉脂质过氧化链式反应中产生的活性氧,减小脂质过氧化反应链的长度,阻断或减缓脂质过氧化的进行,而且对羟自由基和超氧阴离子自由基也有较好的清除作用^[30]; 2）提高羟脯氨酸和SOD含量^[31]; 3）增加表皮和真皮厚度,改善皮肤组织结构,提高皮肤弹力纤维面积,降低β-半乳糖苷酶活性^[32]; 4）对皮肤角质形成细胞衰老相关的一些基因表达水平有显著改变,促进细胞的生长,对抗表皮细胞衰老^[33]; 5）改变细胞周期调控因子1（CyclinD1）,CDK4等,进而调节视母细胞肿瘤抑制蛋白（Rb,一种细胞周期调控蛋白）的磷酸化状态^[34]
灵芝多糖肽	可以增加还原型辅酶II （Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide Phosphate,NADPH）、SOD、CAT和GSH-Px的产生,保护巨噬细胞中的线粒体免受叔丁基脂氢过氧化物（t-BOOH）诱导的损伤,增加低密度脂蛋白（Low Density Lipoprotein,LDL）的氧化^[35]

作用物质	功效	作用方式
灵芝发酵液	美白、保湿	1）美白：抑制酪氨酸酶活性,减少黑色素含量^[19]; 2）保湿：动态调节水分^[24,25]
灵芝多糖	抗衰、抗炎、抑菌、促进血液循环	1）抗衰：清除自由基、活性氧;改变细胞周期调控因子等^{[30,31,32,33,34]}; 2）抗炎：影响MR的表达、抑制巨噬细胞向M1型极化;抑制自由基脂质过氧化、炎性因子活化及NOS活性^[42,43]; 3）抑菌：破坏细菌的细胞结构至其死亡^[48]; 4）促进血液循环：提高红细胞SOD活性、抑制脂质过氧化;促进微血管内皮细胞增殖及修复^[37,38]
灵芝三萜	抗衰、抗敏	1）抗衰：诱导SOD、CAT、GSH-Px的产生,并抑制蛋白质和脂质过氧化^[28,29]; 2）抗敏：抑制Ca²⁺摄取,减少组胺释放^[45]
灵芝多糖肽	抗衰	增加NADPH、SOD、CAT、GSH-Px的产生,增加LDL的氧化^[35]
灵芝萜酮二醇	美白	抑制细胞酪氨酸酶的活性和表达,抑制TRP-1、TRP-2、MITF的表达,影响MAPK级联和cAMP依赖的信号通路^[21]
灵芝提取液	痤疮、抗炎、抗敏、抑菌	1）痤疮：抑制5α-还原酶^[40]; 2）抗炎：抑制NO、PGE2、TNF-α和IL-1β ^[44]; 3）抗敏：抑制组胺释放^[47]; 4）抑菌：破坏细菌的细胞结构至其死亡^[1]
灵芝护肤霜	促进血液循环	促进微循环^[36]
灵芝醇B	抑制痤疮产生	抑制5α-还原酶活性和结合雄激素受体的能力^[41]
灵芝酸C、灵芝酸D	抗敏	抑制组胺释放^[46]