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22 October 2025, Volume 55 Issue 10 Previous Issue   
Invited paper
Applications of metal-organic framework materials in cosmetics
Bao Li,Xinyu Zhao,Lixin Wu
2025, 55 (10):  1221-1235.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.001
Abstract ( 39 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2487KB) ( 40 )  

Metal-organic frameworks (MOFs) represent a class of multifunctional hybrid materials distinguished by their tunable structural architectures, adjustable pore dimensions, and tailorable surface chemical functionalities, which underpin their broad applicability across diverse domains. Within the cosmetics industry, MOFs exhibit significant application potential owing to their high thermal and chemical stability, substantial loading capacity, low biological toxicity, favorable luminescent characteristics, and robust catalytic activity, leading to their increasing deployment in various cosmetic-related applications. This article systematically outlines the structural features and functional properties of MOFs, emphasizing their suitability for integration into cosmetic systems. Furthermore, it provides a comprehensive review of recent advances in the utilization of MOFs in cosmetics, encompassing the detection of organic contaminants and metal ions, ultraviolet protection, encapsulation, and controlled release of volatile active ingredients, as well as targeted delivery of dermatological therapeutic agents. The structure-property-application relationships of MOFs are critically examined. Building upon the foundation of existing research, this study offers a comprehensive outlook on the future development of MOFs in the field of cosmetics. It presents several strategic perspectives, including an in-depth analysis of current application studies, the expansion of MOFs applications into additional cosmetic domains, the integration of multifunctional MOFs systems, the development of MOFs-based composite materials, and the scale-up of synthesis processes from laboratory-scale research to industrial production. It is expected that the present piece of paper can contribute valuable guidance for further exploration and practical implementation in this emerging field of cosmetics.

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Synthesis, luminescence, and bacteriostatic performance of Ag(I) nanocluster 2D assembly
Lingcan Kong,Yi Han
2025, 55 (10):  1236-1244.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.002
Abstract ( 22 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (3895KB) ( 28 )  

Ag (I)-S complex assemblies of two-dimensional (2D) sheet structure have good application prospects in luminescence, catalysis, and bacteriostatic performance. D-penicillamine is used as a capping agent to prepare Ag (I) -S complex assembly by “one-pot” method at room temperature, which is in detail characterized by ATR-FTIR spectrum, X-ray photoelectron spectrum, NMR spectrum, elemental analysis, high-resolution mass spectrum, and thermogravimetric analysis. Transmission electron microscope, cryogenic-selected area electron diffraction, atomic force microscope, and powder X-ray diffraction analyses indicate that Ag (I) -S complex assembly is a type of novel sheet structure comprised of Ag nanoclusters, in which the single sheet merely possesses a thickness of around 8.3 nm. The 2D Ag (I) -S nanocluster assembly H [Ag5 (DPA) 6] shows intense green emission, and its absolute luminescent quantum yield is found to be as high as 10.6%, the photoluminescent lifetime at 540 nm is around 14.5 µs, and thus the assembly luminescence is believed to arise from triplet ligand-to-metal-metal charge transfer transition (3LMMCT). The Ag (I) nanocluster assembly of sheet structure can be formed only when the molar ratio of D-penicillamine and silver nitrate is larger than 2, which suggests that in this case Ag nanoclusters H [Ag5 (DPA) 6] can undergo oriented attachment with each other into close-packed sheet supramolecular assembly through Ag (I) …Ag (I) interactions and inter-ligand hydrogen bonds. In addition, the Ag (I) -S assembly shows good bacteriostatic performance, which functions through the destroying of cellular membrane permeability, and has great application potentials in cosmetics area. Our work not only provides a good model for the construction of ultrathin 2D assembly and the investigation of luminescent and bacteriostatic behaviors but also offers significant guidance and reference for the design and construction of other 2D materials.

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Basic research
Reversible pH response of disodium monotetradecyl phosphate and how to recover it from solutions or emulsions
Yu Yao,Huanjin Zou,Xuefeng Liu
2025, 55 (10):  1245-1251.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.003
Abstract ( 21 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1629KB) ( 25 )  

The aim of this study was to verify whether disodium monoalkyl phosphate was reversibly pH-responsive. In this work, monotetradecyl phosphate (MC14P) was synthesized by pyrophosphoric acid method, and then the disodium salt (MC14P-2Na) and monosodium salt (MC14P-Na) thereof were obtained by neutralizing MC14P with NaOH. The results showed that MC14P-2Na was a precipitation-dissolution switchable surfactant with good reversible pH response. At pH of 11.5, the Krafft temperature (KT) of MC14P-2Na was approximately 0.4 ℃, and the critical micelle concentration (cmc) was approximately 1.9×10-2 mol/L (at 25 ℃); at pH of 6.3, MC14P-2Na was changed into the poorly water-soluble MC14P-Na with a KT of approximately 47.9 ℃ and thus poor surface activity and interfacial activity; when pH was cycled between 11.5 and 6.3, corresponding cycles between MC14P-2Na and MC14P-Na were found, without abnormalities for at least 10 cycles. Based on the pH-dependent reversible change between MC14P-2Na and MC14P-Na, MC14P-2Na could be recovered from micellar solutions and emulsions by converting MC14P-2Na to MC14P-Na with average recovery rate of approximately 96.9% and 95.1%, respectively, and the MC14P-Na thus gathered could be converted back to MC14P-2Na by neutralizing with NaOH.

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Non-aqueous Pickering emulsions synergistically stabilized by double tailed surfactants and silica nanoparticles
Yushi Sun,Zhao Chen,Zhenggang Cui,Xiaomei Pei,Binglei Song
2025, 55 (10):  1252-1259.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.004
Abstract ( 22 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (2468KB) ( 27 )  

Non-aqueous emulsions have a wide range of applications in cosmetics, drug-controlled release, and the preparation of functional nanoparticles. However, due to the weaker polarity of non-aqueous solvents, these emulsions often exhibit inferior stability compared to their aqueous counterparts. In this experiment, the properties of quaternary ammonium surfactants in glycerol were investigated through surface tension measurements, to further enhance the stability of n-decane/glycerol emulsions, hydrophilic nanoparticles SiO2 were modified in situ using double tailed quaternary ammonium surfactants Di-C12DAB and Di-C16DAB. Stable n-decane/glycerol Pickering emulsions were successfully prepared. These emulsions were stable at 45 ℃ for over six months, and no significant changes in droplet size occurred. The minimum droplet size of the emulsion was only 2-3 μm. Contact angle measurements showed that the wettability of the silica surface was tremendously affected by the concentration and the alkyl chain length of the double-tailed surfactants. In the presence of Di-C12DAB, the contact angle of glycerol on the silica surface increased monotonically with the surfactant concentration. This explains the phenomenon that the Pickering emulsions containing Di-C12DAB and silica particles were stable within the contact angle range of 80°-120°. Comparatively, the contact angle of the glycerol on the silica surface in the presence of Di-C16DAB first increased with surfactant concentrations and then decreased, reaching a maximum at 0.6 mmol/L. It can be concluded that Di-C12DAB formed monolayers at the surface of silica particles within all investigated concentrations. On the contrary, Di-C16DAB formed monolayers at concentrations below 0.6 mmol/L and formed double layers at concentrations above 0.6 mmol/L, leading to a non-monotonic change in the contact angle with respect to concentration. Using these stable non-aqueous Pickering emulsions as templates, polymer microspheres with a particle size of 2-3 μm were successfully prepared with high yield. This work is helpful to expand the potential applications of non-aqueous emulsions in the encapsulation of drug, controlled release, material preparation, and cosmetic formulations.

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Construction of an OMMT/HP-MIL-101 adsorbent with high adsorption performance of AFB1
Shasha Hong,Peng Wang,Erdong Li,Shang Guo
2025, 55 (10):  1260-1267.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.005
Abstract ( 19 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (2007KB) ( 19 )  

Mycotoxin is a toxic secondary metabolite and is widely detected in animal feed. Among them, aflatoxin B1 (AFB1) is the most noxious and common mycotoxin, and has caused serious biochemical and structural alterations in many organs mainly because their mutagenicity, teratogenicity and carcinogenicity. Therefore, it is an urgent to construct the high performance adsorbent for AFB1. Herein, we prepared the OMMT/HP-MIL-101 adsorbent using step-by-step modification. Firstly, the MMT was modified with cetyltrimethyl ammonium bromide (CTAB) to get OMMT. Compared with MMT, the interlayer spacing becomes bigger and exposes more adsorption sites, which can enhance the interaction between AFB1 and OMMT. Secondly, the OMMT was combined with MIL-101 with high specific surface area to form OMMT/MIL-101. The OMMT/MIL-101 exhibits the high specific surface area, which can provide the wide adsorption space for AFB1. Finally, the OMMT/HP-MIL-101 was fabricated by the treatment of methanol solvent at high temperature to obtain OMMT/HP-MIL-101. OMMT/HP-MIL-101 has higher specific surface area (1 147.71 m2/g), rich pore structure (micropore, mesopore and macropore), exposed more adsorption sites leading to the high adsorption capacity for AFB1 (17.35 µg/mg). In addition, the Freundlich isotherm is found to fit well in defining the adsorption performance of AFB1 on OMMT/HP-MIL-101, indicating a multi-layer adsorption process. This work displays that OMMT/HP-MIL-101 can serve as the powerful candidate for the adsorption of AFB1, and provides a theoretical basis for the construction of new porous adsorbents for AFB1.

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Effects of special surfactants on the foaming performance of organic foams
Bo Sun,Xiaochun Liu,Baowen Lv,Hui Liu,Zhenxing Li,Yongli Yan
2025, 55 (10):  1268-1274.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.006
Abstract ( 21 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (2108KB) ( 24 )  

The effects of different types of surfactants on the foaming performance of organic solvents with different polarities were investigated. Compared with the solution and foaming performance of conventional surfactant stearyl alcohol ethoxylate, the special surfactants showed excellent performance in the aspects of maximum foam volume, drainage half-life and bubble size distribution. Compared with the addition of C18E9, the introduction of FC-170C into formamide raised the maximum foam air content from 77.7% to 80.6%, and extended the half-life from 123 s to 394 s. Similarly, the addition of PDMS to ethyl acetate raised the maximum foam air content from 25.4% to 30.6%, and increased the half-life from 53 s to 55 s. The introduction of DDAB altered the non-foaming status of benzyl acetate, achieving a maximum foam air content of 39.0% and a half-life of 64 s. The addition of FC-170C changed toluene from non-foaming to foaming, resulting in a maximum foam air content of 44.4% and a half-life of 113 s. The foaming performance was optimal upon the addition of DDAB to decane. The maximum air content of the foam reached 35.9%, with a half-life of 42 s. As to these organic solvents, the foaming performance of special surfactants generally surpassed that of regular surfactant. Solvents with strong polarity were more likely to produce stable foams, the foaming performance of strong polar solvents was superior to that of weak polar solvents. For the same surfactant added, compared with other solvents, the foam produced by formamide solution was more stable and the foam volume was also larger.

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Studies on the antioxidant properties of Staphylococcus epidermidis fermentation broth
Wenlin Geng,Ming Li,Yuhua Cao
2025, 55 (10):  1275-1283.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.007
Abstract ( 16 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (1663KB) ( 26 )  

In this work, Staphylococcus epidermidisS. epidermidis) was used to prepare the fermentation broths with antioxidant activity. Through the optimization of the carbon source, three kinds of S. epidermidis fermentation broth were obtained and designated as SFB, Gly-SFB, and Glu-SFB, which were cultivated in beef protein medium and the beef protein medium supplemented with glycerol or glucose, respectively. The differences in antioxidant efficacy of SFB, Gly-SFB and Glu-SFB were investigated by evaluating intracellular ROS fluorescence intensity, SOD enzyme activity and MDA concentration. Gly-SFB and Glu-SFB exhibited a greater capacity to eliminate ROS as compared to that of SFB. The intracellular SOD enzyme activity increased as the concentrations of SFB and Gly-SFB increased. Nevertheless, the intracellular SOD enzyme activity was the highest after the treatment with Glu-SFB at the low concentrations. The intracellular MDA content reached a lower value after the treatment with Gly-SFB and Glu-SFB at lower concentrations, which was opposite to the case after the treatment with SFB. WB indicated that the S. epidermidis fermentation broth regulated the expression of relevant proteins in the Nrf2-Keap1 signaling pathway to exhibit the antioxidant effects. This indicates that the S. epidermidis fermentation broth promotes the expression of relevant proteins in the Nrf2-Keap1 signaling pathway, consequently, antioxidant benefits were exerted. The fermentation broth that were prepared by incorporating glycerol or glucose into the culture medium can augment their antioxidant activity.

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Development and application
Assessment of eye irritation of cosmetic ingredients based on machine learning
Lixia Huang,Zile Liu,Bingzhen Pan,Jiasheng Bao,Xiwu Qiao,Zhiming Zhou
2025, 55 (10):  1284-1290.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.008
Abstract ( 30 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1084KB) ( 26 )  

To enhance the predictive performance of computer simulation-based alternative test methods for assessing the eye irritation potential of cosmetic ingredients, this study proposes a machine learning hybrid model that combines ensemble learning algorithms with similarity algorithms. The research collected data from six in vitro alternative test results, such as the fluorescein leakage test and neutral red uptake test, for 84 cosmetic ingredients, as well as data from in vivo test results. The predictive assessment effectiveness of the machine learning hybrid model was validated based on the collected test result data. The final experimental results indicate that the proposed machine learning hybrid model performs well in predicting the irritancy of cosmetic ingredients based on in vitro alternative test result data, with a predictive assessment accuracy rate of 100% in the validation experiment results. Furthermore, to improve the convenience, efficiency, and interpretability of the machine learning hybrid model in practical use, this study further proposes a method for evaluating the eye irritation potential of cosmetic ingredients based on a stratified combination of in vitro alternative tests, which is based on the hybrid model. This method includes a quick reference guide for predictive evaluation generated through computer simulation and a hierarchical combination evaluation strategy derived from experimental data analysis. By integrating the results of in vitro tests conducted under this tiered strategy, it enables the rapid prediction of eye irritation potential of cosmetic ingredients.

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Study on the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of extracts from Salvia plebeia R. Br.
Xianxian Cao,Yonglei Yuan,Feifei Wang
2025, 55 (10):  1291-1298.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.009
Abstract ( 27 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (2750KB) ( 26 )  

In order to obtain the active components of Salvia plebeia R. Br. for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, the macroporous resin elution process was selected based on the content of total flavonoids and phenolic acid. The antioxidant activity of Salvia plebeia R. Br. extracts (SE) was detected by DPPH free radical scavenging method and ABTS total antioxidant capacity method. UVB-induced human skin immortalized keratinocytes and mouse dermatitis model constructed with 2, 4-dinitrofluorobenzene (DNFB) solution were used to test the anti-inflammatory effect of SE. The total flavonoids content of SE is 36.42%±0.45% and the total phenolic acid content is 21.32%±0.82%. The half maximal inhibitory mass concentrations of DPPH and ABTS are (49.09±0.10) μg/mL and (84.54±0.99) μg/mL, respectively. In vitro, SE can inhibit the secretion of IL-6, IL-1α and TNF-α in human immortalized keratinocytes. In vivo, SE can effectively relieve ear skin redness and swelling, and reduce the number of inflammatory cells and mast cells degranulation, as well as has significant inhibitory effects on the secretion of IFN-γ, IL-4, IL-5, IgE, and IL-17 in mice. In addition, SE can reduce the thymus index and spleen index in mice. This study proves that SE has excellent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, which can provide a basis for high value utilization of SE in the field of daily chemicals.

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Multi-dimensional comprehensive assessment of apparent pore state: establishing a hierarchical system based on exploratory factor analysis
Qitian Fu,Ying Wei,Xiaochun Lin,Ying Ye,Liqun Guo,Yao Pan
2025, 55 (10):  1299-1305.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.010
Abstract ( 19 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1260KB) ( 24 )  

In the pursuit of tight and delicate skin, the problem of skin pores has attracted wide attention. Before that, few studies combined pore size, oil content and pore skin color for enlarged pore assessment. The aim of this study was to establish a new apparent pore classification system and a comprehensive and objective pore classification atlas. The researchers collected data from 120 healthy Chinese subjects using the VISIA-CR face imaging tester and the Sebumeter SM 815 skin oil content measuring instrument. Then, the self-built two-dimensional image processing algorithm was used for image analysis, and the pore index evaluation algorithm model was established by exploratory factor analysis. At the same time, the classification atlas was established, and the accuracy of the evaluation system was verified. As a result, the research team established a mathematical model using indicators such as oil content, skin color around pores (L* value, a* value, and b* value), and pore size (number of pores, pore area, pore area proportion and pore diameter), and obtained the calculation formula: Apparent pore index=0.546* pore size factor+0.296* pore color factor+0.157* oil factor. And they build an intuitive pore grading criteria, which divided pores into mild, moderate and severe 3 grades, with the model score increasing as the grade increased. After verification, the Kappa coefficient is 0.72 (p<0.01), indicating that the two methods were highly consistent, which proves that the established model and classification diagram are accurate. This study established an intuitive and quantitative map and a model for determining pore grade, and provided a scientific basis for the accurate evaluation of pore problems and the development of follow-up care products. The study can also be used in market development and consumer market research.

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Evaluation of the whitening effect and antioxidant activity of isorosmanol, an active ingredient of Rosmarinus officinalis L.
Qingyu Guo,Dan Cao,Dong Chen
2025, 55 (10):  1306-1312.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.011
Abstract ( 19 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1661KB) ( 24 )  

This study aimed to evaluate the whitening effect and antioxidant activity of isorosmanol, an active ingredient of Rosmarinus officinalis L.. The ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin photoaging (SP) mouse model was used as the research object, and then three doses (1, 2, and 4 mg/cm2) of isorosmanol were transdermally applied to the mice. After 8 weeks of treatment, compared with the UVB group, the epidermal water content in the L-isorosmanol group, the M-isorosmanol group, and the H-isorosmanol group increases the epidermal and dermal morphology improve significantly, the MMP-1 mRNA level decreases, the COL1A1 mRNA level increases, the melanin content, tyrosinase activity, TRP-1 and TRP-2 mRNA relative levels decrease, the α-MSH and MC1R protein relative levels decrease, the SOD, CAT, and GSH-Px activities increase, the MDA content decreases, the Nrf2 (nucleus) protein relative level increases, and the Keap1 protein relative level decreases (P<0.05). In conclusion, in UVB-induced SP mice, isorosmanol exerts a whitening effect by inhibiting the α-MSH/MC1R signaling pathway and exerts antioxidant activity by activating the Nrf2/Keap1 signaling pathway.

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Raspberry ketone treats acne vulgaris by suppressing sebum and inflammation
Taijun Zhang,Haiqi Chen,Jiechun Yin,Li Kang,Rourou Li,Ruyu Deng
2025, 55 (10):  1313-1322.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.012
Abstract ( 19 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (2652KB) ( 25 )  

Raspberry ketone (RK), a common ingredient in cosmetics, possesses antioxidant, preservative, and skin-whitening properties. However, the action mechanism of RK in the treatment of acne remains unclear. Therefore, the study evaluated the sebum-controlling and soothing efficacy of RK by establishing celluar models of lipid synthesis and inflammation in vitro. Additionally, a human efficacy testing on the acne-alleviating effects of RK was conducted. The results indicate that both low-dose (4 μg/mL) and high-dose (40 μg/mL) RK significantly decrease the synthesis of neutral and polar lipids. While the low concentration of RK at 4 μg/mL does not inhibit the secretion of interleukin-6 (IL-6) and nitric oxide (NO), the high concentration of 40 μg/mL significantly inhibits their expression with the inhibition rates of 39.5% and 20.7%, respectively. Additionally, compared with 100 μg/mL dexamethasone sodium phosphate (positive control group), RK at this concentration shows no significant difference in its inhibitory effect on NO secretion. In a trial involving volunteers who meet the inclusion criteria, after consecutively using cream samples containing 0.5% RK for 14 days, all participants report no adverse skin reactions. Notably, their sebum and porphyrin contents decrease by 23.0% and 22.5%, respectively. Furthermore, the lactic acid sting score, erythema index (EI) value, a* value in the red area, and red area size decrease by 48.8%, 6.1%, 11.3%, and 41.8%, respectively. The lesion regression rates for comedones, papules, and pustules are also reconfirmed at 33.8%, 41.8%, and 57.1%, respectively. Additionally, the height and volume of acne lesions decrease by 46.2% and 63.2%, respectively. The study demonstrates that RK exhibits sebum-controlling, soothing, and acne-reducing properties.

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Reviews
Research status and prospect of new pollutants in cosmetics
Linrui Fu,Haiyan Wang,Yong Lu
2025, 55 (10):  1323-1332.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.013
Abstract ( 24 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1015KB) ( 23 )  

The detection of new pollutants in cosmetics has brought new challenges to the safety of cosmetics in China, which needs to be dealt with and solved urgently. At present, most of the studies are risk analysis of new pollutants from the ecological level, and few studies have specifically assessed the risks associated with new pollutants in cosmetics. In order to fill this gap, the health risks of residual new pollutants in cosmetics are qualitatively analyzed. This review reveals the current status of new pollutants in cosmetics hazards through the introduction of domestic and foreign laws and regulations and various published data, and summarizes the pre-treatment process and related instrumental analysis results of new pollutant screening in cosmetics. On this basis, four suggestions are put forward: the first is to enrich the risk assessment system; the second is to strengthen the top-level design and improve the evaluation and detection system; the third is to enhance scientific and technological support; fourthly, the innovative application of green products and alternative components is promoted. It is expected to enable breakthroughs in the targeted analysis of known risk substances and the non-targeted screening of unknown risk substances in cosmetics. Thereby, prospectively identify priority emerging contaminants, provide data support for promoting the safety risk assessment of cosmetics, and constantly improve the risk screening methods of cosmetics. It ensures the safety of cosmetics to the greatest extent and escort public health.

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Research on the integration of women’s aesthetic psychology and cosmetics packaging design
Xinzheng Wang,Yan Liu
2025, 55 (10):  1333-1343.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.014
Abstract ( 14 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (3618KB) ( 21 )  

With the increasing prosperity of the cosmetics market, women, as the core consumer group, have a more significant impact on the aesthetic psychology of cosmetics packaging design. This article first analyzes the aesthetic psychological characteristics of female consumers. Based on the understanding of aesthetic principles such as formal aesthetics, color aesthetics, material aesthetics, and symbolic aesthetics, it is proposed that the aesthetic elements of cosmetic packaging design should be coordinated from multiple dimensions such as visual, tactile, structural, and functional aspects. Based on this, the relationship between women’s aesthetic psychology and cosmetic packaging design has been established, and the interaction between the two has been clarified. And through the analysis of skincare packaging design cases, it is pointed out that there are problems in the current cosmetics packaging design, such as functional and aesthetic imbalance, emotional link discontinuity, serious homogenization, and lagging interaction design. Finally, this article proposes targeted optimization strategies for cosmetic packaging design from the perspective of female aesthetic psychology. It is intended to provide theoretical guidance and practical reference for cosmetic packaging design, promote design innovation, and enhance product market competitiveness.

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Analytical methods and testing
Determination of 23 preservatives in rinse-off cosmetics with quantitative analysis of multi-components by single marker
Zhishan Wu,Chengjun Jiang,Weicheng Yin,Yanchao Wang,Jiaojiao Wu,Shuai Yin,Xiaohong Pan
2025, 55 (10):  1344-1351.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.015
Abstract ( 17 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF (1175KB) ( 22 )  

A quantitative analysis of multi-components by single marker (QAMS) method for the determination of 23 preservatives in rinse-off cosmetics was established. Samples were extracted with 50% methanol aqueous solution, and 23 preservatives were separated and detected on a C18 column by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with gradient elution. 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester was selected as the internal reference substance. The relative time and the relative correction factors of the other 22 kinds of preservatives were established to calculate the content of each component. The results show that the 22 kinds of preservatives have good linear relationships within a certain mass concentration range, and the correlation coefficients (r2) are all greater than 0.999. The limits of detection (LOD) are in the range of 0.033-4.0 μg/g. The solutions remain relatively stable within 7 days. The results of the relative standard deviation (RSD) of each component are between 1.6% and 2.7%. The quantitative analysis of multi-components by a single-marker (QAMS) method and the external standard method have good consistency in the measurement results, and the relative average deviations are between 0.21% and 4.9%. Therefore, this method can be used for the determination and quality control of 23 preservatives in rinse-off cosmetics.

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Determination of 14 prohibited ingredients in hair dye products by HPLC and verification by LC-MS/MS
Xue Zuo,Ling Yang,Ruipeng Yu,Zheng Di,Huajun Zhang
2025, 55 (10):  1352-1360.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.016
Abstract ( 19 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1216KB) ( 24 )  

A method for the determination of 14 prohibited ingredients in hair dye products by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was developed. The hair dye product was ultrasonically extracted in mixed solvent of aqueous sodium bisulfite solution and ethanol. The mobile phase for HPLC determination was acetonitrile and 20 mmol/L ammonium acetate. Chromatographic separation was carried out on a TechMate AQUA-STIII column (4.6 mm×250 mm, 5 µm) by isocratic elution. The detection wavelengths of the diode array detector were 240, 290 and 616 nm. Quantification was performed by external standard method. Further verification for positive sample was performed by LC-MS/MS. The 14 prohibited ingredients have good linearities, with the correlation coefficients (r) higher than 0.999. The limits of detection (LODs) of the 14 ingredients are from 2.4 mg/kg to 52 mg/kg, and the limits of quantification (LOQs) are from 10 mg/kg to 207 mg/kg. At two different content levels, the precision and stability within 48 hours of each target ingredient is good, with the relative standard deviation (RSD) less than 5%. The average spiked recoveries at four levels in both cream and liquid substrates are from 89.4% to 112.8%, with the RSDs from 0.4% to 4.6%. Under the conditions of this experiment, the detection of 14 prohibited ingredients is not affected by the interference of frequently-used permitted dyes in hair dye products.

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