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Table of Content

    22 June 2025, Volume 55 Issue 6 Previous Issue   
    Invited paper
    Preparation and properties of the nanoemulsions and nanoemulsion gels stabilized with rhamnolipid
    Xiaoqian Jiang, Liya Zhang, Aixin Song, Xiuping Sun
    2025, 55 (6):  677-686.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.001
    Abstract ( 50 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (2262KB) ( 37 )  

    Oil-in-water nanoemulsions were prepared by ultrasound-assisted method using octyl and decyl glycerate (ODO) as the oil phase and a biosurfactant, rhamnolipid (RL), as the emulsifier. The effects of emulsifier content, oil-water ratio, oil composition, temperature, pH and sodium chloride concentration on the stability of the nanoemulsions were studied. The nanoemulsions prepared could stand high temperature and are rather stable in a wide pH range. For further enhancing the stability of nanoemulsions, gelatin was introduced to produce nanoemulsion gels. The introduction of gelatin significantly increased the stability of nanoemulsions and could delay the release of active ingredients such as thymol. This study could provide useful information on the construction of biocompatible emulsion systems for encapsulation and application of active substances.

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    Advances in desorption-enhancing mechanisms for coalbed methane desorption agents
    Hongsheng Lu, Yang Yang, Yang Wu, Xiangyang Yan, Bo Lin
    2025, 55 (6):  687-699.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.002
    Abstract ( 39 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2192KB) ( 26 )  

    Coalbed methane (CBM), as an important unconventional natural gas resource, plays a significant role in optimizing energy structures and reducing greenhouse gas emissions. In this review, the research progress and challenges for technologies of desorption agents in CBM development are systematically reviewed, focusing on various mechanisms including physical displacement, chemical competitive adsorption, wettability modification, and thermodynamic synergy. The literature survey has shown that physical displacement agents can enhance the desorption efficiency of methane by occupying the adsorption sites on coal matrices through competitive adsorption. Chemical agents such as surfactants can optimize pore fluid distribution and reduce capillary resistance by regulating gas-liquid-solid interfacial interactions. Wettability modification techniques can weaken methane-coal bonding strength by altering the hydrophilicity or hydrophobicity of coal. Additionally, thermodynamic synergy can systematically improve desorption kinetics through dynamic evolution among temperature field, pressure field, and pore structure evolution. However, challenges such as the heterogeneity of coalbed, the long-term retention risk of chemical agents, and the lack of clarity of the action mechanism of working fluid on coal under reservoir conditions still restrict technological development. To promote green and precision CBM development, future studies should prioritize constructing multiphysics coupling models, developing intelligent responsive materials, and integrating CO2 sequestration with methane recovery technologies.

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    Basic research
    Particulated polyether: A novel defoamer for nonaqueous foams
    Yujiang Wang, Longhao Tang, Xiaoqian Liu, Ning Feng, Hongguang Li
    2025, 55 (6):  700-708.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.003
    Abstract ( 33 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (2136KB) ( 14 )  

    Using triblock copolymer poly(ethylene oxide)-poly(propylene oxide)-poly(ethylene oxide) and citric acid as raw materials, a novel polyether was synthesized through condensation-carbonization under high temperature, which had a hyperbranched structure using nanocarbon as the core, or crosslinked morphology connected by nanocarbon. The mixture of triethanolamine monooleate/p-xylene was selected as a model system to produce nonaqueous foam. It was found that the synthesized polyether had a high defoaming efficiency up to 86% within 30 min, demonstrating a defoaming rate over 2 000 times that of the defoamer-free system. Furthermore, the crude oil from Gudao oil production plant was foamed under high pressure of CO2. The polyether also showed good defoaming efficiency to this foam of crude oil. Our work might provide a new strategy to synthesize nanocarbon-hybridized polyether, which could find applications in cases where defoamers based on organosilicone could hardly be used on a large scale, e.g., the foamed oil produced by the oilfield auxiliary chemicals that are intensively used during oil exploitation.

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    Development and application
    Synthesis and properties of Gemini quaternary ammonium surfactants containing ester groups C12-E2nOm-C12
    Yangbo Zhang, Yaqin Liang, Zhengwei Liu, Xiaoyu Ji, Xiaonan Zhao, Ruimin Gao
    2025, 55 (6):  709-714.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.004
    Abstract ( 30 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (1354KB) ( 14 )  

    Three Gemini quaternary ammonium surfactants containing ester groups in spacers, C12-E2nOm-C12 (i.e., C12-E2O2-C12, C12-E4O3-C12 and C12-E6O4-C12), were synthesized via two-step reaction and characterized by IR, 1H NMR, 13C NMR and HRMS. The effects of spacer length on the self-aggregation, emulsifying, foaming and wetting properties of C12-E2nOm-C12 were investigated. Their corresponding monomer dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride (DTAC) was also investigated for comparison. The results showed that, the critical micelle concentration (cmc) values of C12-E2O2-C12, C12-E4O3-C12 and C12-E6O4-C12 were 0.815, 0.152 and 0.044 2 mmol/L, respectively, which were significantly lower than that of DTAC (10.25 mmol/L). Among these three Geminis, it was found that the cmc values of C12-E2nOm-C12 decreased with increasing spacer length. The phase separation time for evaluating the emulsifying abilities of C12-E2O2-C12, C12-E4O3-C12 and C12-E6O4-C12 were 336, 492 and 682 s, respectively; the wetting time of C12-E2O2-C12, C12-E4O3-C12 and C12-E6O4-C12 were 79, 70 and 64 s, respectively; therefore, C12-E2nOm-C12 exhibited excellent emulsifying and wetting properties compared with DTAC (the phase separation time was 116 s and the wetting time was 87 s). Moreover, C12-E2nOm-C12 also had better foaming ability and foam stability than DTAC. The emulsifying, foaming, foam-stabilizing and wetting abilities of C12-E2nOm-C12 were increased with the increase of spacer length.

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    Analysis of the influencing factors and study on the standardized operation of transepidermal water loss measurement
    Fengling Chen, Yaru Wang, Rongzi Ye, Jiaen Liang, Jiaying Xie, Jianhua Tan
    2025, 55 (6):  715-722.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.005
    Abstract ( 37 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF (1332KB) ( 22 )  

    The transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of human skin is affected by many factors. Different test schemes were designed to systematically compare the test results of the cheek and inner forearm and other areas of healthy subjects, and explore the influence of measurement methods, environmental conditions, test site, instruments and equipment on TEWL test results. The results show that different test methods (including different measurement modes, interval time between two measurement, subject waiting time and accumulated multiple measurements) affect the reproducibility of the test results, and TEWL test results are significantly different under different conditions of environment temperature and humidity that skin surface contact, facial test site and day and night time. There is a strong correlation between the test results of different types of TEWL instruments, but the test stability is significantly different. In this study, various factors affecting the measurement of transepidermal water loss are systematically analyzed, and a standardized operation method is established to provide reliable and scientific technical support for accurate evaluation of the efficacy of cosmetics.

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    Skin sensitisation in vitro method: kinetic direct peptide reactivity assay (kDPRA) transformation and validation
    Ting Liu, Shibu Liu, Li Zhang, Hui Duo, Yong Lu, Luyong Zhang
    2025, 55 (6):  723-730.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.006
    Abstract ( 31 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1369KB) ( 14 )  

    The in vitro method kinetic direct peptide reactivity assay (kDPRA) for skin sensitisation is the first key event (KE1) for modelling the skin sensitisation adverse outcome pathway (AOP): covalent binding of electrophilic substances to nucleophilic centres of skin proteins. Based on the reactivity of tested substance and cysteine, the logarithm of the maximum rate constant (lg kmax) of the tested substance was calculated by detecting the amount of peptide remaining after incubation with different concentrations of the tested substance at six time points, which is used to support the discrimination of UN GHS subcategory 1A skin sensitisers (GHS 1A). This method has not yet been reported in China. The effect of different fluorescence efficacy monobromobimane on the test was examined. Seven compounds with known sensitising strengths were selected to validate the predictive accuracy of the kDPRA. The results show that the effect of different brands of monobromobimane on the prediction results can be accepted. The prediction of allergenicity for the 7 substances is consistent with the known classification, and that kDPRA can accurately identify the subcategory 1A skin sensitisers.

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    Effects of thickeners and processes on the emulsion systems emulsified with sucrose polystearate
    Qiaoxia Wu, Ying Cheng, Feifei Wang
    2025, 55 (6):  731-738.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.007
    Abstract ( 33 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (6297KB) ( 15 )  

    The effects of thickeners and processes on the product properties of emulsion systems were studied, in which sucrose polystearate was used as an emulsifier. The physical and chemical properties, the size distribution of droplets and the stability of the samples were analyzed to evaluate the emulsification efficiency of sucrose polystearate in presence of different thickeners. In this study, two categories of thickeners were used, including neutralizable ones such as Pemulen TR-1, Carbopol Ultrez 21, and Carbopol Ultrez 30, and non-neutralizable ones such as Aristoflex AVC, SEPIMAX ZEN, and Aristoflex BLV. The experimental results indicated that, those neutralizable thickeners pre-added into the system had significantly reduced the emulsifying ability of sucrose polystearate, resulting in the formation of emulsions with larger particle size and uneven distribution. In contrast, no significant influence was observed for non-neutralizable thickeners upon the emulsifying ability of sucrose polystearate. Therefore, for neutralizable thickeners, it was recommended to incorporate them into the system in a dispersion form after the emulsification process, during the low-temperature stage, and with appropriate mixing intensity, thus to prepare products with smaller particle size, good stability and fine appearance. This study revealed the influences of selection and addition of thickeners, which might provide new ideas and methods for application of thickeners in emulsion systems. It could be helpful for the design and optimization of thickeners and emulsion systems.

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    Preparation and study of Camellia oleifera seed oil-ceramide nanoemulsion
    Xingting Wang, Zhaojuan Shi, Jun Wu, Chuanxun Yuan, Risheng Jin
    2025, 55 (6):  739-746.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.008
    Abstract ( 34 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (1660KB) ( 20 )  

    In order to enhance the development and application of Camellia oleifera seed oil (CSO) in the field of cosmetics, the study utilizes CSO as the cosmetic base oil and combines it with ceramide (Cer). High-pressure homogenization was employed to prepare and optimize the best formula and conditions for the CSO-Cer nanoemulsion. The results show that under the conditions of homogenization pressure at 100 MPa, 7 cycles, a CSO mass fraction of 15%, a Cer addition of 1%, a hydrogenated lecithin mass fraction of 4%, a cholesterol mass fraction of 0.2%, and a glycerol mass fraction of 25%, a nanoemulsion with optimal particle size and stability is obtained. This emulsion has a particle size of 124.7 nm, a polydispersity index of 0.108, and a Zeta potential of -55.7 mV. Further testing reveals that the CSO-Cer nano-emulsion exhibits excellent moisturizing and transdermal properties. Consequently, the CSO-based CSO-Cer nanoemulsion is a potential new type of functional cosmetic emulsion, providing significant technical reference for the subsequent application of CSO in the field of cosmetics.

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    Preparation and properties of O1/W/O2 double emulsion loaded with menthol
    Yueling Xu, Xinfeng Dong, Xianyan Zhu, Ge Yang, Ruishuang Xu, Wei Tang, Li Yu
    2025, 55 (6):  747-755.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.009
    Abstract ( 30 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (4226KB) ( 12 )  

    The O1/W/O2 double emulsion loaded with menthol was prepared by two-step emulsification method, with caprylic capric triglyceride solution of menthol as the inner oil phase (O1), glyceryl triacetate as the outer oil phase (O2), Tween 80 and Span 80 as the water-soluble and the oil-soluble emulsifiers, respectively. The effects of emulsifier contents and oil-water mass ratios on the stability of O1/W/O2 double emulsion loaded with menthol were investigated, and the optimum preparation conditions were determined. Moreover, the emulsion type and microstructure of O1/W/O2 double emulsion were studied, and its loading, holding and heat-releasing properties for menthol were explored. The results show that the stability of the O1/W emulsion (primary emulsion) is the best when the mass ratio of O1 phase to water phase (mass percentage of Tween 80 is 5%) is 6∶4, and the O1/W/O2 emulsion loaded with menthol displays the best stability when the mass ratio of primary emulsion to O2 phase (mass percentage of Span 80 is 5%) is 5∶5. And after centrifugation at 12 000 r/min for 3 min or at room temperature for 60 days, it can still exist stably and without stratification. When menthol is loaded with this emulsion, its maximum load rate can reach 22.7%, and the controlled release of menthol can be achieved in the temperature range of 40-90 ℃. In this study, the payload and controlled release of menthol (the main component of peppermint essence) are realized by using double emulsion as the carrier, which lays a theoretical foundation and provides a technical support for the applications of essences in the relevant fields, such as food and home fragrance industries.

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    Phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol augments skin’s antioxidant and anti-wrinkle capabilities
    Hang Tie, Qi Li, Cuicui Zhu, Minjia Yuan, Liang Xu
    2025, 55 (6):  756-766.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.010
    Abstract ( 35 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1360KB) ( 19 )  

    The objective of this research was to assess the potential of phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol as a cosmetic ingredient. The hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and ultraviolet A (UVA) induced human skin fibroblasts (HSF) models of skin damage were established to compare the antioxidant and anti-wrinkle properties between phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol and unencapsulated resveratrol. The findings reveal that encapsulating resveratrol with phosphatidylcholine not only enhances skin absorption but also significantly improves its antioxidant capabilities. In the H2O2-induced HSF injury model, phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol demonstrates a superior ability to neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by H2O2 compared to the resveratrol group. Further analysis indicates that this enhanced functionality is associated with increased enzymatic activities of superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px) and catalase (CAT) when treated with phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol. Additionally, in UVA-irradiated HSF cells, phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol effectively reduces the levels of matrix metalloproteinases-1 and-3 (MMP-1 and MMP-3) and increased the contents of Collagen Ⅰ and Collagen Ⅲ (Col-1 and Col-3), demonstrating significant anti-wrinkle effects. These findings provide critical evaluation criteria and application references for enhancing cosmetic ingredients through phosphatidylcholine encapsulation, thereby advancing skincare formulations.

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    Studies on the anti-hair loss mechanism of Aquilaria sinensis leaf extract by integrated metabolomics and network pharmacology
    Zhengang Peng, Zhengwan Huang, Zhe Liu, Xiaoxiao Lin
    2025, 55 (6):  767-778.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.011
    Abstract ( 38 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (2838KB) ( 18 )  

    The anti-hair loss mechanism of Aquilaria sinensis leaf extract (ASE) has been studied by using metabolomics and network pharmacology. Metabolomics was utilized to comprehensively identify the active constituents of ASE, and the network pharmacology was used to elucidate their anti-hair loss mechanism, which was verified by molecular docking technology. 572 active compounds were identified from the ASE by metabolomics methods, where there are 1 447 corresponding targets and 492 targets related to hair loss, totaling 88 targets. 20 core active substances were identified by constructing a network between common targets and active substances, which include vanillic acid, chorionic acid, caffeic acid and apigenin. The five key targets of TNF, TP53, IL6, PPARG, and EGFR were screened out by the PPI network analysis on 88 common targets.The GO and KEGG pathway enrichment analysis showed that the inflammation, hormone balance, cell growth, proliferation, apoptosis, and oxidative stress are involved. Molecular docking studies have confirmed the high binding affinity between core active compounds and key targets. The drug similarity assessment on these core compounds suggested that they have the potential to be used as potential hair loss treatment drugs. This study elucidates the complex molecular mechanism of ASE in treating hair loss, and provides a reference for the future applications in hair care products.

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    Repairing effect of gastrodin on UVB-damaged skin
    Haodong Li, Xingyi Wu, Ying Zhang, Weilian Wang, Wei Wang, Li Li
    2025, 55 (6):  779-784.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.012
    Abstract ( 29 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (1653KB) ( 15 )  

    In order to investigate the reparative effect of gastrodin (GAS) in the skin damaged by medium-wave ultraviolet (UVB) rays, human keratinocytes (HaCaT) was used to build UVB radiation damage cell model. The inhibitory effect of GAS on the secretion of TNF-α and PGE2 in UVB-irradiated cells, and the modulation of the mRNA expression levels of AQP3 and FLG, as well as the effects on the content of the two proteins, were investigated by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA), real-time quantitative fluorescence PCR (qRT-PCR), and immunofluorescent assays. The results show that GAS solution at a mass concentration of 200 µg/mL can repair the inflammatory damage produced by UVB, inhibit the secretion of TNF-α and PGE2 (P<0.05 and P<0.001), up-regulate the mRNA expression levels of FLG and AQP3 (P<0.01 and P<0.05), and increase the protein content of FLG and AQP3 (P<0.01 and P<0.001). It elevates the skin hydration and promotes the repair of the skin barrier function, thus reinforcing the barrier structure, which can provide scientific experimental basis for the application of GAS in restorative cosmetics.

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    Reviews
    Application of magnetic flocculation in oily wastewater treatment
    Zihao Li, Xiaona Dong, Huanqin Zheng, Jing Shen, Shujun Wang, Zhiping Du
    2025, 55 (6):  785-794.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.013
    Abstract ( 21 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (3196KB) ( 13 )  

    With rapid development of industrial technology, large amount of oily wastewater has been generated in the processes of oil exploitation, transportation, etc. Oily wastewater is characterized by large discharge, complex composition, and poor biodegradation. If it is discharged into the environment without proper treatment, it will cause great harm to human health and the ecological environment. In view of the current situations such as water scarcity, serious environmental pollution and increasingly stringent emission standards, how to deal with oily wastewater is one of the research hotspots in the field of water treatment. Magnetic flocculation is a new water treatment technology, which has been proven effective in the fields of turbidity reduction, phosphate removal, and organic compound removal. Therefore, magnetic flocculation shows great application potential in the field of water treatment. Herein, the research progress of magnetic flocculation in oily wastewater treatment was systematically reviewed. Firstly, the sources and characteristics of oily wastewater were introduced, and the classification of magnetic flocculation was presented. Then, the preparation of magnetic materials, the process conditions when applied in oily wastewater treatment, and the recycling of magnetic flocculants were specifically introduced. Moreover, the current research on magnetic flocculation in the field of oily wastewater treatment was briefly introduced. Finally, the development direction of magnetic flocculation was prospected from the aspects of magnetic materials, application range, multi-process coupling, etc., in the hope of a broader application in the treatment of oily wastewater.

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    A new option for extracting functional components from medicine and food homologous plants: Ionic liquids
    Xingyu Zhao, Liqin Zhou, Zhenxia Zhao, Yan Huang
    2025, 55 (6):  795-802.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.014
    Abstract ( 72 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF (1392KB) ( 31 )  

    Medicine and food homologous plants play important roles in the fields of food nutrition and traditional Chinese medicines. Traditional extraction techniques, despite their practical value, pose problems such as environmental pollution and resource wastage. With the advancement in research of medicine and food homologous plants and natural products, seeking for efficient and environmentally friendly extraction methods has become a hot topic. Ionic liquids (ILs), as a type of novel green solvents, have shown great potential in the field of natural product extraction due to their unique physicochemical properties. Herein, the research progress of ionic liquids for extraction of functional components from medicine and food homologous plants has been reviewed, including the basic characteristics of ionic liquids, their development history, and the mechanisms in extracting functional components from natural products. The definition, types, and functional components of medicine and food homologous plants were introduced in detail, and the application examples of ionic liquids in extraction of these plant components were analyzed. Additionally, the advantages of using ionic liquids for extraction were discussed, such as high selectivity, tunability, and environmental friendliness. The current challenges were also pointed out, including cost issues and safety. Finally, the future development trend of ionic liquids in extraction of functional components from medicine and food homologous plants was prospected.

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    Progress of cosmetic active ingredients exerting skincare efficacy through cellular autophagy
    Fan Wu, Jiaqi Zhang, Yi Qin, Jun Wang, Zonghan Wu, Yao Pan
    2025, 55 (6):  803-810.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.015
    Abstract ( 43 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (1427KB) ( 33 )  

    Autophagy, as a cellular homeostasis maintenance mechanism, removes damaged or excess proteins and organelles within the cell. Some cosmetic active ingredients can remove cellular wastes, and regulate the related pathways and cellular functions through autophagy, which play an important role on repairing cellular damage, slowing down the process of non-enzymatic glycosylation, strengthening skin barrier, and inhibiting the melanogenesis and sebum secretion. It has a great prospect in the development and application of cosmetic products. Therefore, this paper reviews the role of autophagy and its molecular mechanism in anti-aging, skin barrier repair, skin whitening and oil control efficacies, summarizes the cosmetic active ingredients that regulate autophagy to improve the skin condition, and finally looks forward to the prospects and development direction of autophagy related research in the cosmetic industry.

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    Analytical methods and testing
    Determination of 7 prostaglandin analogsin eyelash-related cosmetics by UPLC-QTRAP-MS/MS
    Xu Gong, Jing Sun, Youlong Feng
    2025, 55 (6):  811-816.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.016
    Abstract ( 38 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (1384KB) ( 20 )  

    A method based on ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-triple quadrupole/linear ion trap mass spectrometry (UPLC-QTRAP-MS/MS) has been developed for the detection and quantification of 7 prostaglandin analogs in eyelash-related cosmetics. Samples were extracted with methanol via ultrasonic extraction and separated on an ACE Excel 2 C18 (100 mm× 2.1 mm, 2 μm) column using a mobile phase of acetonitrile-5 mmol/L ammonium acetate (containing 0.05% formic acid) in a gradient elution mode. Data were collected in the ESI+ mode using multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) combined with enhanced product ion scanning (EPI). Quantification was performed using matrix-matched external standard calibration curves, with both retention times and the ratios of ion pair abundances serving as the basis for qualitative assessments. Further confirmation of target components was achieved through comparison of EPI spectra. The results reveal a strong linear correlation for the 7 prostaglandin analogs within their respective linearity ranges, with the correlation coefficients exceeding 0.999. Sensitivity is characterized by the detection limits ranging from 0.002 0 to 0.020 μg/g and quantitation limits from 0.005 0 to 0.050 μg/g. The average recoveries at three spiked levels are found to be between 87.3% and 107.0%, with the RSDs varying from 0.7% to 5.4% (n=6). This method is used to analyze 9 batches of eyelash-related cosmetics, and 1 batch is found to contain bimatoprost. The developed method, distinguished by its operational straightforwardness, analytical precision, and detection sensitivity, is adeptly applicable for the quantitative determination and qualitative screening of the 7 prostaglandin analogs in cosmetics.

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