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    Determination of transdermal permeation of sunscreen by confocal Raman spectroscopy and its application
    Yu Xie, Shaofeng Zhang, Wucheng Yang, Jiaying Xie, Ruifang Fan, Jianhua Tan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1133-1139.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.015
    Abstract3143)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (1657KB)(45)       Save

    Based on laser confocal Raman spectroscopy technology, a real-time in vivo testing method for the depth distribution and transdermal penetration of sunscreen in the stratum corneum of the skin was established using a skin component analyzer combined with multivariate linear regression analysis. Using volunteers’ arms as the experimental subject, the consistency of transdermal penetration ability of three common sunscreen agents, OMC, DBHB, and EHT, was tested and analyzed in different skin regions of the arm. And the transdermal penetration of the sunscreen agents in sunscreen lotions with different formulation was compared. The results indicate that the relative standard deviation of the skin penetration of sunscreen in different areas on the inner side of the arm is less than 15%, indicating that the method is suitable for comparison of the skin penetration of different sunscreen products. After one hour of skin penetration, it is found that the transdermal penetration of the three sunscreen agents in the skin is reduced by about 60%, and the penetration depth of EHT is relatively shallow, when the in oil-in-water sunscreen compared to the nano emulsion sunscreen. This method has been effectively applied in the study of transdermal penetration of sunscreen agents, and can provide methodological references for transdermal absorption of cosmetics.

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    Study on the silicon dioxide encapsulation for the enhancement of vitamin C stability
    Meiling Shi, Juanbo Chen, Hao Li, Yuanqin Huang, Qiqing Zhang, Sa Zeng, Tao Meng
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1015-1022.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.001
    Abstract3137)   HTML15)    PDF(pc) (2190KB)(55)       Save

    To improve the stability of vitamin C(Vc) in cosmetics, Vc was coated with silica dioxide (Vc@SiO2), modified by silane (Vc@s-SiO2) and dispersed in decanoyl/octanoyl-glycerides (GTCC) oil phase system. The experimental results show that the encapsulation rate and drug loading rate are 68.2% and 13.6%, respectively, when Vc is encapsulated into silica dioxide. After modification, the surface of Vc@s-SiO2 is hydrophobic and the contact angle increases from 33.6° to 130.7°. When Vc is maintained at 50 ℃ or exposed to ultraviolet light, Vc@s-SiO2 exhibits an increase in antioxidant activity by 11.4 times and 27.7 times, respectively, compared to free Vc. This study reveals that silica dioxide coated Vc and dispersed in GTCC can isolate the adverse factors such as water oxygen, reduce the activity loss and improve the stability of Vc.

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    Corrosion-inhibiting effects of triazinyl Gemini surfactants on carbon steel in aqueous solution containing 0.5 mol/L H2SO4
    Mengying Yuan, Dehua Wang, Huikai Nan, Tao Geng, Hongyi Liu, Hailin Zhu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1145-1154.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.001
    Abstract2802)   HTML18)    PDF(pc) (7806KB)(56)       Save

    The triazinyl Gemini surfactants with different hydrophobic chain lengths (Cm-2-Cm, m=6, 8, 12) were synthesized by using cyanuric chloride, hexylamine/octylamine/dodecylamine, ethylenediamine,N, N-dimethyl-1, 3-propanediamine and bromoethane as raw materials. The molecular structure was characterized by FT-IR, 1H NMR and ESI-MS. The surface activities of the three triazinyl Gemini surfactants (C6-2-C6, C8-2-C8 and C12-2-C12) were investigated by surface tension method. Their corrosion-inhibition properties on 45# carbon steel in 0.5 mol/L H2SO4 were studied by static weight loss method, electrochemical impedance spectroscopy, potentiodynamic polarization and quantum chemistry. The results showed that, when the carbon number of hydrophobic chain was increased from 6 to 12, the critical micelle concentration (cmc) of the triazinyl Gemini surfactant was decreased from 0.059 mmol/L to 0.013 mmol/L, and meanwhile the pc20 value was increased from 1.23 to 1.89. The results of electrochemical impedance showed that, the corrosion inhibition efficiency increased with the increase of carbon number of hydrophobic chain for the surfactants at the same concentration. The inhibition efficiency could reach 95.03% for 45# carbon steel in 0.5 mol/L H2SO4 when adding 0.2 mmol/L C12-2-C12. The results of potentiodynamic polarization showed that the three surfactants were mixed corrosion inhibitors which mainly inhibited the cathode. These three triazinyl Gemini surfactants could effectively adsorb on the carbon steel surface, as shown by the results of quantum chemical calculation.

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    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅸ)The soluble, stable, multi-functional natural polysaccharide gum: fenugreek gum
    Yu Gao, Yejie Zhou, Yuanming Li, Qiyuan Liu, Yadi Liu, Jinshi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1023-1029.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.002
    Abstract2643)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (1152KB)(38)       Save

    Fenugreek gum (FG) is one kind of water-soluble natural polysaccharides extracted from the endosperm of fenugreek legumes. It has appropriate physical and chemical properties, such as water solubility, water binding capacity, thickening ability, thermal stability, emulsifying ability, film-forming property, as well as salutary pharmacological actions like hypoglycemic activity, antihyperlipidemic effect, and antioxgenation property. Moreover, its physical, chemical properties and application performance can be significantly improved by physical modification, chemical modification, blending modification and enzymatic modification. Therefore, fenugreek gum has been gained more and more attention in many fields, including daily-use chemical industry, food processing industry, pharmaceutical industry, and oil recovery. In this paper, the name, extraction source, chemical structure, the main physicochemical properties of fenugreek gum along with its extraction and purification technologies, common modification methods are briefly presented. Furthermore, the application areas of fenugreek gum and its modified products, and the current challenges faced in its development, as well as the future research direction and prospects for the development of fenugreek gum are also discussed in this paper.

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    Skin care efficacy study of recombinant humanized collagen based on in vitro level
    Jian Wang, Yuhui Fan, Danfeng Li, Ningwen Cheng, Ling Li, Yufeng Yu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1030-1038.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.003
    Abstract2507)   HTML25)    PDF(pc) (1489KB)(90)       Save

    Studying the skin care efficacy of recombinant humanized collagen based on in vitro level. The stability of the recombinant humanized collagen was first analyzed by treating at different temperatures, then its skincare efficacy based on in vitro level was evaluated by detecting the inhibition rate of elastase, the inhibition rate of collagenase, the protein content of type I collagen in human fibroblasts, the inhibition of reactive oxygen species (ROS) with human keratinocytes, and the effects of the recombinant humanized collagen on the expression of hyaluronic acid (HA), filaggrin (FLG) and transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) in keratinocytes. The results showed that recombinant humanized collagen was able to maintain stability at temperatures below 70 ℃. With regard to its skincare efficacy, recombinant humanized collagen could inhibit elastase and collagenase activities and promote the increase of type I collagen content in human fibroblasts. It also showed good inhibition of ROS in keratinocytes in vitro and could increase the expression of HA, FLG, and TGM1 in keratinocytes. In short, the recombinant humanized collagen exhibited a favourable skin care effect in vitro level. This study proved that it has potential firming, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and repairing efficacy, and is a valuable cosmetic raw material.

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    Study on the efficacy and mechanism of an amino acid combination in hair care
    Jiayi Fan, Wenshen Yu, Marina Bian, Zoe Yue, Jing Wang, Kuan Chang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1059-1068.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.006
    Abstract2480)   HTML12)    PDF(pc) (1856KB)(90)       Save

    The effect of a mixture of amino acids in hair care was studied. The repair effect of this raw material on hair was evaluated by stretching test and combing test. The experimental results showed that, the amino acid combination could increase the tension in the yield zone by 29.4% and reduce the combing work of hair by 22.4% (dry combing) and 18.1% (wet combing). According to the results of spectral characterization, fluorescent penetration test and stress relaxation test, it could be concluded that the amino acid combination could repair the broken bonds by permeating into the hair and thus achieve the effect of toughening, and make the hair lipid transfer to the hair surface, which lead to a repairing effect on the hair surface and improved the hair combability. In particular, it had significant repair effect on the damaged hair caused by perm and hair coloring.

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    Research and evaluation the performance of MQ-type silicone resin
    Jieying He, Jiajing Cai, Feifei Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (9): 1078-1085.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.008
    Abstract2430)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (1924KB)(48)       Save

    MQ silicone resin is the copolymerization product of tetraalkoxysilane (Q unit) and trimethylethoxysilane (M unit). It has a special double-layer tightly cross-linked spherical network structure, which not only has excellent water resistance, thermal stability and compatibility, but also is long-lasting, safe and non-irritating. So it has become one of the indispensable film-forming ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Therefore, it is vital to evaluate and screen the MQ silicone resin for improving the efficiency of formulation development. The molecular structure and film morphology of 21 MQ silicone resins were analyzed by GPC, microscopy and air permeability analyzer. According to the results, the relationship between the molecular structure of MQ and its application properties, such as film forming time, film brittleness, air permeability, water resistance, sweat resistance and oil resistance, were explored. The results show that the properties or performance of MQ silicone resin are depended on the size and distribution of its molecular weight. For the MQ-type silicone resin filmogen with higher molecular weight and narrower distribution, its film properties of hardness, water resistance and sweat resistance are enhanced with the increase of molecular weight, but its air permeability is subsequently weakened and film forming time is shorter. When the molecular weight decreases and the polymer dispersity index is almost unchanged or broadened, the MQ silicone resin show softer film, better oil resistance, longer film-forming time and higher air permeability.

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    Skin brightening benefit of 4-hexylresorcinol in vivo and in vitro and its underlying mechanism
    Xuelan Gu, Hong Zhang, Xue Xiao, Zhuang Zhou, Jue Qu, Yibing Shi
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1437-1446.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.005
    Abstract2252)   HTML18)    PDF(pc) (7450KB)(73)       Save

    4-Hexylresorcinol (4-HR), a potent tyrosinase inhibitor, has been used as an even-tone active ingredient for skin care application since 2007. While the skin brightening efficacy of 4-HR in Chinese population has not been thoroughly investigated and its significance in keratinocytes has not been fully raveled. This study aims to evaluate the skin brightening potential of 4-HR in vivo and in vitro and explore its new mechanism of action through transcriptome approach. The skin brightening effect of 0.4% 4-HR in a facial serum was assessed in an 8-week, double-blinded, placebo-controlled, and randomized clinical study in 67 Chinese participants. ITA°, melanin index (MI) and visual grading were measured at baseline and 2, 4 and 8 weeks after use. A pigmented living skin equivalent (pLSE) model constructed from Asian skin cells was utilized to assess the brightening efficacy of 0.4% 4-HR by measuring the model’s brightness (L* value) and melanin content. Then, transcriptomic analysis of 4-HR treated human epidermal keratinocytes was conducted, and the two in vitro models were adopted for hypothesis validation afterwards. In the clinical study, the result shows both 0.4% 4-HR serum and placebo chassis can significantly improve all measures as compared to baseline at the 2, 4, and 8 weeks. Furthermore, 0.4% HR serum demonstrates a better performance in increasing ITA° as early as 2 weeks of application and decreasing MI value than the placebo group at Week 2. In the pLSE model, 0.4% 4-HR with topical application evidently increases L* value by 15.88% and decreases melanin content by 47.61% compared to UVB group. RNA-sequencing analysis implies that 4-HR can regulate multiple biological processes including skin development, keratinocyte differentiation, oxidant activity and autophagy function. In the blue-light challenged human keratinocytes model, 4-HR shows a significant ROS suppression capacity. In the keratinocytes-melanocytes co-culture model, 4-HR prompts autophagy activity and decreases melanin content. Most importantly, the melanin inhibitory activity of 4-HR is compromised after co-treating with Chloroquine, an autophagy inhibitor, suggesting autophagy regulation property of 4-HR may partially contribute to its skin brightening efficacy. Taken together, these data demonstrate skin brightening efficacy of 0.4% 4-HR in vivo and in vitro, in addition to acting as a tyrosinase inhibitor, 4-HR can contribute to skin brightening benefit via enhancing cellular antioxidant capacity and autophagy activation.

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    Performance of branched-chain extended surfactant mixed with zwitterionic or cationic surfactant
    Xiaoding Zeng, Yancheng Zheng, Guoqing Zhang, Lingchi Zeng, Jian Mu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1405-1413.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.001
    Abstract2157)   HTML14)    PDF(pc) (6684KB)(67)       Save

    2-Hexyl-1-decanol was used as the main material to prepare a block-polyether sulfonate extended surfactant (IC16P6E6S). The solubility and surface active properties of IC16P6E6S were evaluated, and then the IC16P6E6S was mixed with a cationic surfactant hexadecyl trimethyl ammonium bromide (CTAB) and a zwitterionic betaine surfactant (HAB), respectively. The effects of mixing ratios of IC16P6E6S∶HAB and IC16P6E6S∶CTAB on the hydrodynamic diameter and interfacial properties were discussed. The emulsification, adsorption and laboratory core displacement experiments of the binary system were tested. The results showed that the critical micelle concentration (cmc) of IC16P6E6S in distilled water was 0.1 mmol/L and the surface tension at cmc (γcmc) was 28.53 mN/m. IC16P6E6S showed strong synergistic effects with HAB and CTAB, and the mixed systems could effectively reduce the interfacial tension compared with single surfactants. The mixed systems with n (IC16P6E6S) ∶n (HAB) of 1∶1 and n (IC16P6E6S) ∶n(CTAB) of 1∶3 could maintain ultra-low interfacial tension (in the order of magnitude of 10-3 mN/m) in the salinity range of 1%-7% NaCl and low interfacial tension (in the order of magnitude of 10-2 mN/m) in the salinity range of 3%-7% NaCl, respectively. With the increase of salinity, the emulsion formed by the mixed surfactant system underwent the phase transition process from Winsor Ⅰ to Winsor Ⅲ and then to Winsor Ⅱ. The emulsion of mixed IC16P6E6S/HAB system had more middle-phase emulsion volume than that of the mixed IC16P6E6S/CTAB system, and the former emulsion system was more stable. The mixed IC16P6E6S/HAB system also had good solubilization effect, and the amount of oil solubilization was up to 43 mL/g. Meanwhile, it had good adsorption resistance. Compared with water flooding, the depressurization rate could reach 25.00% and the recovery could be enhanced by 11.75%, indicating that the IC16P6E6S/HAB system was more conducive to the depressurization and injection enhancement for low-permeability reservoirs.

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    Study on the mixed systems of polyether organosilicon surfactant and classic anionic surfactants
    Xinzhi Liang, Ting Sun, Xinyao Ye, Yukai Wang, Liang Bai, Hongguang Li
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1155-1165.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.002
    Abstract2083)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (9356KB)(62)       Save

    Polyether organosilicon surfactants have received widespread attention in recent years due to their excellent surface activities. To further expand the downstream application and develop a surfactant formula, in this work, a polyether modified trisiloxane surfactant was mixed with a classical anionic surfactant (alkyl glycoside sulfonate or fatty-alcohol polyethoxylate phosphate), and the mixed adsorption parameters and mixed micellization parameters of the binary surfactant mixtures were investigated in detail. For the selected mixing ratio, the dispersing performance of binary surfactant mixtures was evaluated in common model systems (foam, emulsion, suspension), which could provide an important reference for the application and development of systems of polyether modified silicone surfactants.

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    Research progress on the application of ferulic acid in cosmetics
    Shiyu Deng, Jianming Jin, Hua Wu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1489-1496.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.011
    Abstract2039)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (7103KB)(57)       Save

    Ferulic acid is a phenolic compound widely exists in plants. Currently ferulic acid on the market is mainly extracted from plants, but it can also be obtained via biosynthesis or chemical synthesis. The biosynthesis method has a great potential for future production of ferulic acid. Ferulic acid is frequently used as a whitening ingredient in cosmetics, since it reduces melanin production by competitively inhibiting tyrosinase activity. It also has strong antioxidant activity, including elimination of free radicals, inhibition of ROS production, and regulation of various signaling pathways and the activity of antioxidant enzymes. The anti-UV activity of ferulic acid makes it applicable in sunscreen cosmetics. It can absorb UV rays and inhibit UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase MMP-2 and MMP-9 activities to attenuate the damage caused by UV radiation. Ferulic acid is also reported to display protective effects on human keratinocytes and human skin fibroblasts. In addition, it is found to have effective anti-aging effect, mainly through inhibiting the degradation of hyaluronic acid by reducing the activities of collagenase and hyaluronidase, and inducing the biosynthesis of pre-collagen and hyaluronic acid. Ferulic acid shows potential for the treatment of atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and other inflammatory diseases of the skin. Its anti-inflammatory effect results from the inhibition of multiple inflammatory factors and signaling pathways. Ferulic acid displays broad-spectrum antibacterial effect, by damaging the cell membranes of bacteria and fungi which leads to membrane leakage and cell death. Furthermore, ferulic acid can also promote skin healing and regeneration. However, the instability of ferulic acid limits its applications in cosmetics.

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    Hydration transformation behaviors of CO2 and excellent anti-inflammatory activity on RAW 264.7 cell
    Wanping Zhang, Yiting Gu, Xuyan Li, Zhiyong Sun, Chunhong Wei, Dongmei Zhang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1289-1297.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.001
    Abstract1919)   HTML17)    PDF(pc) (1353KB)(73)       Save

    Skin care products with carbonic acid (H2CO3) have gained extensive attention worldwide. However, the conversion of CO2 to H2CO3 is not stable, and the mechanism of the effect of H2CO3 on skin care has not been clearly proved. The hydration-dissolution behaviors of CO2 were investigated under different temperature, pH, and pressure conditions. Moreover, based on the phenomenon of CO2 hydration transformation, the inflammatory effect of CO2 hydrate on macrophages (RAW 264.7) was investigated. The result shows that the increase in temperature weakened the hydration of CO2, and the increase in pH and pressure both promoted the water-phase transformation of CO2. When pH<6, CO2 reacts with water to generate H2CO3. When pH was between 6-7, the prompt solution was a mixture of H2CO3 and HCO3-. When the pH was between 7-9, they mainly generated HCO3-. And when pH>9, CO2 solubility mainly converts to CO32-. Besides, CO2 can inhibit the secretion of inflammatory factors by RAW 264.7 cells by inhibiting the phosphorylation of the p38 protein. CO2 hydrate inhibited the expression of pro-inflammatory factors IL-6, TNF-α, and up-regulated the expression of anti-inflammatory factor IL-10. Furthermore, the anti-inflammatory molecular mechanism of CO2 hydration inhibited the MAPK signaling pathway by inhibiting the phosphorylation of p38. The hydration-dissolution behavior of CO2 was investigated. This work revealed the anti-inflammatory bioeffect of CO2 hydrate, providing a theoretical basis and application support for CO2 skin care products.

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    Experimental research of inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent for offshore high water cut oil fields
    Meng Yu, Guorui Xu, Xiang Li, Yufei Zheng, Xuan Feng, Jinzhou Yang, Fenggang Liu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1307-1312.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.003
    Abstract1907)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (1429KB)(64)       Save

    An environmentally friendly inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent was prepared for those offshore high water cut oil fields with formation water containing sodium bicarbonate. Sodium silicate and calcium chloride were used as the main agents, while polycarboxylic acid dispersant and emulsion polymer were used as assistants. The effects of the type of polycarboxylic acid dispersant and the mass concentration of emulsion polymer on the performance of the deep profile control and oil displacement agent were studied. The results showed that when the acid-ether ratio of the polycarboxylic acid dispersant was 3.7 and its molecular weight was 23 800, the electrostatic repulsion and steric hindrance from polycarboxylic acid dispersant and inorganic particles achieved an effective dispersing effect. Combined with low concentration of emulsion polymer (500 mg/L), the formulated inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement system could enhance the viscosity and strength of the system, and the initial viscosity was increased from 1.1 mPa·s to 5.4 mPa·s. The results showed that this inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent could increase the flow resistance, with a plugging rate of 82.3%. It could achieve online injection and had the characteristics of rapid dispersing, deep profile control and oil displacement, and low cost. This inorganic composite deep profile control and oil displacement agent had application value in high water cut oil fields.

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    Application of multiple emulsions in skin care cosmetics
    Chunfang Zhu, Junbiao Li, Zhenming Xie
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1243-1250.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.012
    Abstract1793)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (6540KB)(71)       Save

    The multiple emulsion system is an emulsification system with a special structure in the cosmetic formulation process. It can improve the stability and safety of cosmetic functional ingredients, improve the skin feel of traditional emulsions, and achieve synergistic encapsulation and sustained release of different functional ingredients. It has received more and more widespread attention in the field of cosmetics and has become a research hotspot of cosmetic emulsification systems. In formula design and practical application, multiple emulsions are not widely used in the actual production process of cosmetics due to their complex structure, poor stability, difficulty in preparation, and high requirements for actual production process application. This article first introduces multiple emulsions and their characteristic structures, then explains the preparation methods and factors affecting stability of multiple emulsions, providing ideas for solving the stability problems of multiple emulsions. Finally, it outlines the application of different types of multiple emulsions in skin care cosmetics, and looks forward to the application prospects of multiple emulsions. It aims to provide a theoretical basis for the preparation and application of multiple emulsions in skin care cosmetics.

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    Preparation and evaluation of the liquid crystal emulsion based on wax ester emulsifier
    Linghua Shen, Vincent Hubiche, Paula Lennon, Jie Zhuang, Jin Zhang, Qianjie Zhang, Wanping Zhang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1320-1329.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.005
    Abstract1793)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (8722KB)(59)       Save

    The influences of preparation technology and formula composition (oils, polyols, rheological regulators and ionic components) on the formation of liquid crystal structure in the emulsion stabilized with wax ester emulsifier were systematically studied, and the application performance of the liquid crystal emulsion was also tested. The experimental results showed that the one-pot method was more conducive to the formation of liquid crystal structure of the emulsion system. The emulsifier had good compatibility with vegetable oil and good emulsifying ability. For plant-origin oils, the smaller the interfacial tension between oil and water, the better the emulsifying effect and the more conducive to the formation of liquid crystal structure. The addition of glycerol could maintain the original excellent liquid crystal structure and stability of the system, but 1,3-butanediol would disrupt the molecular arrangement in the interfacial layer due to the hydrated groups formed by hydrogen bonding with water, thus reducing the integrity and stability of the liquid crystal structure of the system; the addition of ionic components could significantly enhance the liquid crystal structure of the system by increasing the compactness of the arrangement of emulsifiers; the addition of natural rheological regulators, such as AX and Tara, could enhance the high-temperature stability of the liquid crystal structure of the system, while Carbopol® type could enhance its low-temperature stability. Meanwhile, by study of the application performance of liquid crystal emulsion, it was found that the liquid crystal emulsion prepared with wax ester emulsifier had better moisturizing performance than the ordinary structured emulsion, and had certain slow-release effect.

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    Molecular simulation study on the behavior of long-alkyl-chain betaine surfactants at the interface between water and the oil
    Fei Yi, Fantao Meng, Bin Chen, Hao Xu, Xiaoyan Wu, Xiaoliang Li
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1166-1171.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.003
    Abstract1778)   HTML6)    PDF(pc) (5799KB)(42)       Save

    With the large-scale implementation of chemical flooding, the demand for surfactants has increased sharply. Betaine surfactants are a type of efficient displacement agent suitable for multi-scenario exploitation in oilfields due to their excellent interfacial activity, salt resistance, and environmental friendliness. Molecular dynamics simulations were used to study the oil-water interface behavior and microscopic molecular configuration of betaine surfactants with different hydrophobic chain lengths and hydrophilic groups, so as to explore the interfacial activity of long-alkyl-chain betaine surfactants at the molecular level, and explain the recovery-enhancing mechanism. Through mutual verification between the simulation results and experimental data, microscopic explanations for macroscopic experimental phenomena were provided. Furthermore, the interfacial action mechanism of long-alkyl-chain betaine surfactants was summarized, providing guidance for the design of displacement agents based on the interface migration and distribution by molecular simulation.

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    Effect of fermented polypeptide of Sacha Inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.) on the structure of liquid crystal emulsion
    Xiaochun Liu, Tingting Luo, Jie Dai, Laicheng Chen, Qiuxing He
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1456-1464.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.007
    Abstract1729)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (7558KB)(34)       Save

    In order to study the action mechanism of Sacha Inchi polypeptide in liquid crystal emulsion, oil-in-water liquid crystal emulsions with Sacha Inchi fermented polypeptide as the active component were prepared. The microstructures, particle sizes, stabilities, thermodynamic properties, and rheological properties of liquid crystal emulsions with different concentrations of the fermentation products were observed by Polarizing microscope, Particle size meter, Thermogravimetric differential thermal synchronous measurement system, and Rheometer, respectively. The results showed that the average particle size of fermented peptide liquid crystal emulsion was (25.7±2.8) μm, and the liquid crystal structure was complete and stable. The content of bound water and liquid crystal in the emulsion with 1% Sacha Inchi polypeptide were higher than those in the blank emulsion and the emulsions with 3% and 5% Sacha Inchi polypeptide. Rheological results indicated that the viscosity of liquid crystal emulsion with the change curve of shear rate registered the shear thinning phenomenon, which belongs to non-Newtonian fluid. The hysteresis area, energy storage modulus, and loss modulus of the 1% additive amount of liquid crystal emulsion were larger than those of the blank emulsion and the emulsions with 3% and 5% Sacha Inchi polypeptide, indicating greater thixotropy and stronger shear resistance. The hydrophilic amino acid residues of the peptide in the 1% additive amount of the emulsion were combined with the water phase, while the hydrophobic amino acid residues of the peptide entered the oil phase, which formed a viscoelastic film at the oil-water interface, so that the liquid crystal emulsion had a more stable gel network structure.

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    Coacervation of oxidized glutathione with a cationic surfactant and the application in dye removal
    Yue Zhang, Yu Liu, Li Zhao, Ce Wang, Baocai Xu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1423-1430.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.003
    Abstract1682)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (6082KB)(38)       Save

    Coacervation of oxidized glutathione (GSSG) and a cationic surfactant, didodecyldimethylammonium bromide (DDAB), was constructed mainly driven by the electrostatic and hydrophobic interactions. The pH-dependent coacervate of GSSG-DDAB (1∶4, mol/mol) was analyzed. Under acidic and neutral conditions, a turbid suspension of droplets is observed, and alkaline pH results in the phase separation of coacervates as the top phase. The coacervate phase exhibits good performance (extraction efficiency>85%) in extracting several dyes from water, including brilliant yellow, acid red 13, cresyl violet acetate, eriochrom blue SE, and 4-hydroxyazobenzene. The dyes are added into the suspension in acidic conditions. Then, the dyes are enriched and extracted along with the coacervates as the top phase when pH is adjusted to~10. Coacervation of GSSG with DDAB provides a simple approach to extract organic pollutants in wastewater treatment.

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    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅹ) The stable, highly viscous, water-soluble microbial polysaccharides: xanthan gum
    Niya Lv, Yanshuang Zhang, Guimei Han, Jinshi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1172-1180.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.004
    Abstract1617)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (6644KB)(38)       Save

    Xanthan gum is a kind of extracellular polysaccharides produced by xanthomonas. It is a heteropolysaccharide polymer with high molecular weight formed by a series of five-sugar residues repeating units. Xanthan gum and its derivatives are widely used in various industries such as daily-use chemical industry, food processing industry, pharmaceutical industry, water treatment, and oil exploitation, due to their excellent stability, thickening ability, emulsifying ability, suspensibility, rheological property, acid resistance, base resistance, heat resistance, salt resistance, and other fit properties. In this paper, the chemical structure, the main physicochemical properties, the production methods, and the modification technologies of xanthan gum, as well as the properties, the preparation, separation and purification methods of xanthan gum oligosaccharides are briefly presented. Furthermore, the application status of xanthan gum and its modified products, the current problems in xanthan gum production, and the future prospects for the development of xanthan gum are also mentioned in this paper.

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    Experimental study of non-aqueous foams stabilized with different surfactant aggregates
    Ziwei Zhang, Yongli Yan, Bingcheng He, Longlong Dou, Song Shi
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1181-1190.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.005
    Abstract1543)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (6946KB)(43)       Save

    Non-aqueous foams have wide applications in cosmetics, porous materials, biomedicine, oil and gas development, etc. However, due to the low surface tension of non-aqueous solvents, they have difficulty in foaming and their foams usually have poor stability. Therefore, relevant field has been a difficult problem to overcome. Surfactant aggregates are widely used in related field due to their high density and ordered structure. In this work, different surfactant aggregates were prepared and characterized, in which sodium dodecyl sulfonate and sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate were used as the main agents, and formamide and decanol were used as the non-aqueous phase. Then their foaming ability and foam stability for non-aqueous solvents were observed. The results showed that all these surfactant aggregates were of layered liquid crystal structure, belonging to non-Newtonian fluids, which had shear-thinning rheological phenomenon. The higher the content of surfactant, the more stable the layered liquid crystal structure of the surfactant aggregates. The foam volume was first increased and then decreased with the increase of layered liquid crystal content. The foam-stabilizing ability of SDBS/decanol/formamide system was better than that of SDS/decanol/formamide system. When formamide was used as the non-aqueous phase and the layered liquid crystal content in the SDBS/decanol/formamide system was 60% (w/%), the foam life was more than 55 h. When the non-aqueous phase was decanol and the layered liquid crystal content in the SDBS/decanol/formamide system was 60% (w/%), the foam life lasted for more than 6 h.

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    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅻ) Multifunctional acidic heteropolysaccharide: pectin
    Yadi Liu, Kaiyue Guo, Axiu Gao, Yejie Zhou, Jinshi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1414-1422.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.002
    Abstract1384)   HTML17)    PDF(pc) (8209KB)(40)       Save

    Pectin is a kind of natural hydrophilic colloid with complicated composition and structure, which has been abundantly found in the cells of higher plants. Pectin has good water solubility, stability, gelling ability and emulsifying ability, as well as safety and non-toxicity, good biocompatibility, biodegradability, and many excellent biological activities such as lowering cholesterol, anti-tumor, anti-oxidation, and lowering blood sugar. Moreover, both its physicochemical properties and functional performance can be further improved by physical, chemical and enzymatic treatments and compound modification upon the active functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, carboxyl groups and glycosidic bonds. Therefore, pectin has been widely used in many fields, including food industry and pharmaceutical industry. Furthermore, great application potential has emerged in daily-use chemical industry, functional materials, and biodegradable biological materials. In this review, the source, chemical structure, main physicochemical properties and functional characteristics of pectin were briefly introduced. The extraction methods, separation and purification technologies, and modification methods for pectin were also systematically presented. In addition, the situation of application as well as the current problems for pectin and its modified products were summarized. Finally, some of the directions of future research and development of pectin were pointed out.

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    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅺ)Highly branched, high concentration-low viscosity plant polysaccharides: arabic gum
    Yimo Zhao, Jialin Wang, Fang Wu, Haiping Xiong, Pengcheng Xue, Jinshi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1298-1306.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.002
    Abstract1338)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (2066KB)(43)       Save

    Arabic gum is one kind of natural plant gum derived from Acacia sengal (L.) Willdenow and other related tree species, characterized by its highly branched structure and complex composition. Arabic gum possesses excellent water solubility, thickening property, emulsifying ability, and stability properties, as well as safe, non-toxic nature, good biocompatibility, and biodegradability. Moreover, both its physicochemical properties and functional performance can be further improved by conducting physical, chemical, enzymatic treatments and blending/composite processing with the active functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups and glycosidic bonds, in the arabic gum molecular structure. As a result, arabic gum, its modified products and composites have been widely used in various industries, including daily-use chemical industry, food processing industry, pharmaceutical industry, textile industry, printing and dyeing industry, ink industry, and functional materials manufacturing industry. In this paper, the name, source, chemical structure, main physicochemical properties and functional characteristics of arabic gum are briefly introduced. Its extraction methods and reprocessing techniques are also systematically presented. Furthermore, the application status of arabic gum and its modified products, its composites, as well as the main issues currently faced by them are together summarized. Meanwhile, some future research and development directions and prospects of arabic gum are properly pointed out.

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    Recombinant human calreticulin promotes hair regeneration in androgenetic alopecia mice
    Gaiying He, Shoubiao Wu, Shutao Liu, Dongdong Wei, Junsheng Cui, Yi Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1313-1319.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.004
    Abstract1331)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (2705KB)(38)       Save

    Androgenetic alopecia (AGA) is the most common type of hair loss and is usually caused by multiple factors. AGA is characterized by progressive miniaturization of hair follicles, shortened anagen phase, prolonged telogen phase, and the decrease of hair density. We studied the role of recombinant human calreticulin (rh-CRT) in promoting hair regeneration in androgenetic alopecia (AGA) mice. Hair regeneration was assessed by observing the overall and local appearance of the hair at different time points, the melanin index of the skin was observed by color tester, the change of hair diameter was detected by dermatoscopy, the change of the hair cuticle was studied by scanning electron microscopy, and the thickness of the skin and the dermal white adipose, and the number of hair follicles were further observed by HE staining. The results reveal that rh-CRT promotes hair regeneration, increases melanin index, significantly improves the diameters of coarse and fine hairs in AGA mice, and repairs the damaged hair cuticle induced by testosterone(TES). In addition, it is demonstrated that rh-CRT significantly promotes the number of hair follicles and the thickness of the skin and dermal white adipose in AGA mice. The results suggest that rh-CRT promotes the regeneration of hair in AGA mice, which has important application value in hair regeneration products.

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    Efficacy assessment for skin microecology/microbiome-modulating cosmetics
    Yumei Zheng, Rong Hu, Wenhai Wu, Liya Song, Wen Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (11): 1382-1390.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.11.013
    Abstract955)   HTML5)    PDF(pc) (1139KB)(949)       Save

    The in vitro and in vivo evaluation methods of microecological skin care products were summarized. Cosmetics can regulate skin microecological balance by directly changing the number, growth metabolism, community structure, and population effect of skin microorganisms, or by regulating skin immune response and improving skin physiological function. The number, growth and metabolism level, population effect of skin microorganisms and skin immune response status are often evaluated by in vitro method. Skin microbial diversity, community structure, and skin physiological state are often tested by human methods, combined with high-throughput sequencing technologies such as 16S rRNA amplicon sequencing, ITS amplicon sequencing, and shotgun metagenomic sequencing. Different evaluation methods have different dimensions and advantages. The in vitro method is more targeted and the test conditions are easy to control, but the model is too simple and lack of activity. In contrast, clinical trials are more holistic and in line with real use scenarios, but it is difficult to qualitative analyze the complex causal relationship among individuals, product use and microbiome changes. In the process of efficacy evaluation, the combination of in vitro and in vivo can complement the limitations of different evaluation methods to a certain extent, and can provide a more complete evidence chain for the efficacy evaluation of products.

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    Effects of oil type on the stability and rheological properties of W/O Pickering emulsions
    Juyuan Zhang,Xiumei Tai,Huimin Liu,Xiaoyuan Ma,Xu Gao,Yi Luo
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 879-886.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.001
    Abstract736)   HTML35)    PDF(pc) (2395KB)(85)       Save

    Using dimethylsilylated silica as emulsifier, W/O Pickering emulsions were prepared by homogeneous emulsification. The kinds of oils, rheological modifiers and their effects on the stability and rheological properties of the W/O Pickering emulsions were studied. The results showed that, compared with the nonpolar oil, the W/O Pickering emulsion prepared with polar oil had smaller droplets and better stability, e.g., the emulsion prepared with jojoba oil had narrow particle size distribution, uniform shape and good stability. With the addition of rheological modifier, the particle size of the emulsion decreased to a certain extent, and the stability at room temperature and at low temperature was both slightly increased. For different oils, the rheological modifier which was similar to the oil in molecular structure had better effects in the reduction of particle size and the improvement of stability. All these W/O Pickering emulsions prepared with different oils were non-Newtonian fluids. With the increase of shear rate, the viscosity of the emulsions decreased, and the elastic modulus (G') of all emulsions was higher than viscous modulus (G"). All the emulsions were gel emulsions, and the linear viscoelastic region was 0.001%-0.100%. With the addition of rheological modifier, the viscosity of the emulsion increased and the shear thinning phenomenon was basically unchanged, but the linear viscoelastic region was enlarged, which might be related to the change of emulsion particle size and oil-water interfacial energy.

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    Aggregation behavior of mixed systems of imidazolium-based ionic liquid and sodium octanesulfonate
    Xueyan Zhao,Jingyi Huang,Ruijie Xiao,Guirong Cao
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 887-894.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.002
    Abstract654)   HTML11)    PDF(pc) (1450KB)(49)       Save

    Two mixed systems consisting of an anionic surfactant and a cationic surface-active ionic liquid were studied. The mixture of sodium octanesulfonate (SOS) and 1-decyl-3-methylimidazolium bromide ([C10mim]Br), and the mixture of SOS and 1-tetradecyl-3-methylimidazolium bromide ([C14mim]Br), were both investigated using surface tension measurement. The parameters, such as critical micelle concentration (cmc), surface tension at cmc (γcmc), surface pressure at cmc (Πcmc), maximum surface excess (Γmax) and minimum area per molecule (Amin), were obtained. The mixed micellar parameters including micellar mole fraction (X1m), micellar interaction parameters (βm) and activity coefficients (f1m and f2m) were calculated by applying Rubingh’s regular solution theory. The calculated parameters confirmed that there were strong synergy in all these mixed systems, and the interaction of SOS with [C14mim]Br was stronger than that with [C10mim]Br. Thermodynamic parameters for mixed monolayers and mixed micelles were calculated and discussed, which indicated that the mixed micelles were spontaneously formed and were thermodynamically stable systems. Turbidity measurement was conducted using spectrophotometry. The phase diagrams were plotted for each system based on visual observations and absorbance values. The mixed systems of SOS/[C10mim]Br and SOS/[C14mim]Br all exhibited three concentration regions: a low-concentration homogeneous solution region, a two-phase region, and a high-concentration homogeneous solution region.

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    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅷ)High-viscosity and versatile natural galactomannan: guar gum
    Xiaotong Sun,Yejie Zhou,Yatong Duan,Yadi Liu,Tingyu Zhang,Jinshi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 895-902.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.003
    Abstract577)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (1243KB)(45)       Save

    Guar gum is a kind of natural galactomannan extracted from the endosperm of seeds of guar beans. It has excellent water solubility thickening, gelling, and film-forming properties, as well as non-toxicity, good biocompatibility, and biodegradability. Moreover, its physical and chemical properties can be significantly improved and its application performance can be efficiently enhanced through molecular modification, chemical cross-linking, graft copolymerization, oxidation, and other modification treatments by reacting with the hydroxyl groups and glycosidic bonds in its molecular structure. Therefore, guar gum and its modified products have been found wide applications in industrial fields such as daily chemicals, papermaking, food processing, oil exploitation, biomedicine and water treatment. In this review, the name, source, chemical structure, main physicochemical properties and functions of guar gum along with its extraction technologies and modification methods were briefly presented. The applications of guar gum and its modified products, and the current challenges as well as the future research directions of these materials were also discussed.

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    A preliminary study on the mechanism of oily sensitive skin and intervention care
    Xinjue Kuang,Yuanyuan Fu,Xiancai Chen,Yong Chen,Youting Liu,Fan Yi
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 988-996.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.014
    Abstract562)   HTML13)    PDF(pc) (1734KB)(83)       Save

    With the prevalence of modern unhealthy lifestyle habits and the worsening of environmental pollution, the occurrence of oily sensitive skin has been increasing. However, the exact cause is still not completely understood. In this paper, we review the definition and characteristics of oily sensitive skin. We also provide an overview of its possible mechanisms, which include excessive sebaceous gland secretion, reduced epidermal barrier function, skin microecological imbalance, inflammatory response, and neurological and vascular hyperreactivity. Furthermore, we analyze the intrinsic connection between these different mechanisms in depth. In response to these mechanisms, this article discusses a series of recommendations for caring for oily sensitive skin. It highlights the differences in skincare compared to dry sensitive skin, emphasizes the importance of choosing effective skincare products, and suggests making adjustments to lifestyle habits. These recommendations aim to improve the quality of life for patients and provide valuable references for practitioners in the field.

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    Study on the non-aqueous foams stabilized by the modified nano-SiO2 particles
    Siqi Yao,Yongli Yan,Suiwang Zhang,Yu Chen,Bingcheng He
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 903-910.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.004
    Abstract546)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (2760KB)(55)       Save

    Non-aqueous foams have a wide range of applications in petroleum exploitation, functional materials, daily chemical industry, etc. However, the low interfacial tension and low dielectric constant of non-aqueous solvents lead to the difficulty in forming stable foams. Therefore, to solve the difficulty in foaming for non-aqueous systems, nano-SiO2 particles were prepared and characterized by TEM, FT-IR and XRD. Then the wettability of nano-SiO2 particles was modified with 3-glycidyloxypropyl trimethoxysilane (GPTMS), and the effects of nano-SiO2 particles of different wettability on the foaming performance of non-aqueous solvents were studied. The results showed that the contact angle of the particles could be regulated in the range from 34.7° to 116° by GPTMS modification. The surface tension of different solvents could be effectively reduced and the viscosity of the solvent systems was increased. When the mass fraction of particles was 7% and the particle size was 10 nm, the foam volume for non-aqueous solvents first increased and then decreased with the increase of the contact angle of nano-SiO2 particles, and the foam stability also first increased and then decreased with the increase of the contact angle of nano-SiO2 particles. In the formamide system, when the contact angle of particles was 92.3°, the foam volume could reach up to 12 mL, and the foam stability could reach 63 days. In the benzyl acetate system, when the contact angle of particles was 79.5°, the foam volume could reach up to 7 mL, and the foam stability could reach 47 days. In the decane system, when the contact angle of particles was 60.3°, the foam volume could reach up to 4 mL, and the foam stability could reach 8 days.

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    Synthesis and sol-gel transition of interpenetrating nanogels with controllable structural color
    Tingting Xia,Xueting Li,Xihua Lu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (8): 911-920.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.005
    Abstract502)   HTML2)    PDF(pc) (3309KB)(35)       Save

    The PNIPAM/PAphe interpenetrating nanogels which were responsive to temperature and pH were synthesized. The chemical structure, morphology, particle size and dispersity, temperature-and pH-response, structural color tunability, photonic crystal self-assembly, and sol-gel transition behavior of the interpenetrating nanogels were studied in detail by infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), dynamic light scattering, and optical fiber spectrometry. According to the infrared spectrum and SEM image, the effective interpenetration and good monodispersity of the two networks were confirmed. The analysis of particle size and polydispersity index (PDI) indicated that, with the increase of PAphe content, the particle size of the interpenetrating nanogels correspondingly increased, but the monodispersity remained good. The temperature-and pH-sensitivity experiments proved the responsiveness of the interpenetrating nanogels, which showed that the particle size was significantly decreased when the temperature was increased or the pH value was decreased. Combined with the optical fiber spectrum, it was further found that the interpenetrating nanogel could achieve controllable structural colors by adjusting the particle size. More importantly, they possessed the ability of transition from sol to gel above Tp (32 ℃) by the method of test tube inversion. These characteristics showed their potential applications in highly controllable optical materials and the biomedical field.

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    Determination of 10 indicative components from plant materials in whitening cosmetics by UPLC-MS/MS
    Weidong Huang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (4): 531-538.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.04.016
    Abstract215)   HTML3)    PDF(pc) (1207KB)(42)       Save

    A method for simultaneous determination of 10 indicative components from plant materials in whitening cosmetics by ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS/MS) was established. The sample was extracted by ultrasonic extraction using 80% methanol, then separated on a Phenomenex Kinetex F5 column (3.0 mm×100 mm, 2.6 μm) by gradient elution using 0.1% formic acid solution and acetonitrile as the mobile phases. The mass spectrometry was detected using electrospray ionization source (ESI), positive and negative ion simultaneous scanning and multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) mode. The results show that there are good linear relationships for 10 indicative components in their respective mass concentration rangers with the correlation coefficients (r) larger than 0.99. The limits of detection (LOD) are in the ranges of 0.07-1.93 μg/kg and the limits of quantitation (LOQ) are in the ranges of 0.22-6.42 μg/kg. The recoveries of toner, cream, emulsion and mask samples at three spiked levels for 10 indicative components are 80.5%-122.5%, with the relative standard deviations (RSD) of 1.3%-10.1% (n=6). With the advantages of accuracy, high sensitivity and simplicity, this method is suitable for qualitative identification and quantitative analysis of various indicative components from plant materials in various matrix types of whitening cosmetics.

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    Determination of 13 preservatives in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography and verification by mass spectrometry
    Po Zou, Wei Xu, Xueyan Li, Changyu Li, Yan Chen, Qinqin Chen
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1532-1540.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.016
    Abstract169)   HTML4)    PDF(pc) (6069KB)(30)       Save

    A method using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was developed for the simultaneous determination of 13 preservatives (levulinic acid, p-hydroxyacetophenone, raspberry ketone, p-anisic acid, caprylhydroxamic acid, hydroxyethoxyphenyl butanone, methylisothiazolinone, phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid, methylparaben, chlorphenesin, dehydroacetic acid, and 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane) in cosmetics. Different types of samples were ultrasonically extracted by methanol, then the separation of 13 preservatives was carried out on a column of Agilent ZORBAX Eclipse XDB-C18 (250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm) by gradient elution at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min, using 0.1% phosphoric acid solution and acetonitrile as mobile phases. The column temperature was 30 ℃, and the detection was completed by a diode array detector with the wavelengths at 275, 230 and 210 nm. Suspected positive samples were further confirmed by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry or gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The linear regression analysis data shows good linearity for 13 preservatives in the respective mass concentration range, with their correlation coefficients (r) greater than 0.999 8. The limits of detection (LODs) and limits of quantitation (LOQs) of the method are in the ranges of 0.4-100.0 mg/kg and 1.2-250.0 mg/kg, respectively. At three spiked levels, the average recoveries for 13 target compounds in three kinds of matrix samples are within 84.0%-115.4%, and the relative standard deviations (RSD) are within 0.5%-4.8% (n = 6). This method is convenient, efficient, and precise, which can be used for qualitative and quantitative analysis of common preservatives in daily cosmetics.

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    Boron-containing copolymers as environmentally friendly lubricant additives
    Hua Xue, Fengchun Liang, Weili Yang, Qun He, Meirong Cai, Feng Zhou, Weifeng Bu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (1): 1-11.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.01.001
    Abstract144)   HTML20)    PDF(pc) (1769KB)(53)       Save

    Increasing environmental concerns about limiting harmful emissions has necessitated sulfur-and phosphorus-free green lubricant additives. Although boron-containing compounds have been widely investigated as green lubricant additives, their macromolecular analogs have been rarely considered yet to develop environmentally friendly lubricant additives. In this work, a series of boron-containing copolymers have been synthesized by free-radical copolymerization of stearyl methacrylate and isopropenyl boronic acid pinacol ester with different feeding ratios (Sn-r-Bm, n=1, m=1/3, 1, 2, 3, 5, 9). The resulting copolymers of Sn-r-Bmn=1, m=1/3, 1, 2, 3, 5) are readily dispersed in the PAO-10 base oil and form micelle-like aggregates with hydrodynamic diameters ranging from 9.7 to 52 nm. SRV-IV oscillating reciprocating tribological tests on ball-on-flat steel pairs show that compared with the base oil of PAO-10, the friction coefficients and wear volumes of the base oil solutions of Sn-r-Bm decrease considerably up to 62% and 97%, respectively. Moreover, the base oil solution of S1-r-B1 exhibits an excellent load-bearing capacity of (850±100) N. These superior lubricating properties are due to the formation of protective tribofilms comprising Sn-r-Bm, boron oxide, and iron oxide compounds on the lubricated steel surface. Therefore, the boron-containing copolymers can be regarded as a novel class of environmentally friendly lubricating oil macroadditives for efficient friction and wear reduction without sulfur and phosphorus elements.

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    A review of methods for evaluating effectiveness of cosmetic products and ingredients based on mechanisms of the human hair growth cycle
    Jiaqi Zhang, Kening Wan, Ranjit Kaur Bhogal, Mingming Pu, Jiayin Gu, Yao Pan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1504-1514.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.013
    Abstract140)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (9295KB)(74)       Save

    With the increasing incidence of hair loss and especially among younger population in recent years, the demand for diversified products on anti-hair loss solutions is growing and the market of cosmetic products expanding accordingly. Worldwide attention is being paid to the research and development of anti-hair loss actives, while there is no unified standard for the efficacy evaluation and testing methods of anti-hair loss cosmetics. Therefore, it is critical to establish standardized methodology for assessing the effectiveness of anti-hair loss actives and their cosmetic products. In this review, an overview of the human hair follicle structure, the hair follicle cycle, and the biological pathways and signaling mechanisms involved in hair growth are summarized. This provides the fundamental understanding of human hair growth for reviewing anti-hair loss actives and cosmetic hair loss products, and respective methods and techniques applied for evaluating their efficacy. Additionally, changes in the normal hair cycle, and corresponding cosmetic strategies to slow down and reduce hair loss have been provided. This review aims to provide recommendations for evaluating the effectiveness of anti-hair loss actives on the mechanisms involved in the hair follicle growth cycle, and so provide criteria for new technology development and scientific research for cosmetic products.

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    Study on the foam properties of common surfactants
    Yanfu Zhou, Xuguang Wang, Feifei Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (1): 26-33.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.01.003
    Abstract138)   HTML16)    PDF(pc) (1948KB)(77)       Save

    In this work, 10 commonly used surfactants were selected. The surface tension of their aqueous solutions was compared, and then the properties such as foam volume, foam density and foam stability were studied by using DFA100 dynamic foam analyzer. Pearson correlation coefficient was used to clarify the correlation between those indexes of foam characteristics. The results showed that, among these 10 surfactants, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate had the best foamability. The foams of disodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium cocoyl alaninate were the densest. The foam morphology stability and foam density stability were the best for sodium methyl cocoyl taurate and disodium cocoyl glutamate, but the worst for capryl/capramidopropyl betaine. However, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine had the best foam volume stability. The results of Pearson correlation coefficient analysis showed that a surfactant solution with lower surface tension was more likely to produce dense foams. The liquid content of foam would be higher if the bubbles were more abundant. The foam volume for the surfactant solution with larger initial foam density was more likely to collapse. The bubble number with higher drainage rate was decreased faster.

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    Advances in polymeric materials for bio-lubrication
    Shida Hou, Ping Peng, Yuankang Liu, Jing Yan, Yi Yan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (1): 12-25.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.01.002
    Abstract130)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (3335KB)(67)       Save

    Natural lubricants play an important role in the functions of living organisms. When the lubrication for tissue interface were lost due to various factors, exogenous lubricant material would be necessary to provide lubrication property. In this review, the types of natural lubricants and the lubrication mechanism at biological interfaces are introduced in detail. The recent research progress on the lubrication strategies for different tissue friction interfaces and on the construction of polymeric lubrication materials are reviewed. Specifically, the conformational relationships, lubrication properties, and additional biological functions of the polymeric materials used for skin moisturizing and lubrication, articular cartilage lubrication, mucosal lubrication, anti-tissue adhesion, as well as medical catheter lubrication are summarized. The unique contributions of these polymeric materials in reducing tissue friction and promoting repair of damaged tissues are emphasized. In addition, the optimization of functionality, and the practical applications of polymeric lubricant materials are prospected, which might provide guidance for the future development of polymeric materials in the field of lubrication at biological tissue interfaces.

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    Study on the preparation and properties of sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion
    Wanping Zhang, Lv Zhou, Zihao Gao, Haiyang Zhu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (12): 1447-1455.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.12.006
    Abstract112)   HTML11)    PDF(pc) (7547KB)(64)       Save

    To solve the greasiness and irritation risks brought about by organic sun-screening agents in sunscreen emulsions, in this work, a sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion was prepared by two-step emulsification method, in which the outer oil phase was silicone oil and the inner oil phase was solid lipid nanoparticles coated with organic sun-screening agent. Several influencing factors on the formation and stability of the emulsion were analyzed, including inorganic salts, the volume fraction of outer oil phase (silicone oil), and the dosage of W/O emulsifier. The in vitro sunscreen performance, water resistance and skin permeability of different types of sunscreen emulsions were further studied. The results showed that the sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion containing 22.5% silicone oil, 2.5% emulsifier and 0.2% NaCl had the best stability under the experimental conditions. The SPF value and water resistance of sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion were slightly higher than those of sunscreen W/O emulsion, but significantly higher than those of sunscreen O/W emulsion. Compared with sunscreen W/O emulsion, the in vitro transdermal permeability of organic sun-screening agent in sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion was reduced by approximately 60%, indicative of higher safety and good application prospect in sunscreen cosmetics.

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    Preparation of highly stable O/W Pickering emulsion based on amphiphilic Janus-SiO2 particles
    Keke Zhang, Huanjin Zou, Ye Fan, Yongmin Zhang, Xuefeng Liu, Yinjun Fang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (3): 271-278.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.03.001
    Abstract106)   HTML38)    PDF(pc) (8248KB)(65)       Save

    Janus-SiO2 nanoparticles were prepared by Pickering emulsion templating method by using 3-(2-aminoethylamino)propyltrimethoxysilane and n-octyl trimethoxysilane. The results of FT-IR, TG, contact angle and Zeta potential confirmed the successful grafting of amino groups and octyl groups onto the surface of SiO2 nanoparticles. Considering the emulsion droplet diameter and emulsification index, the optimal emulsification conditions were obtained at a homogenization intensity of 15 000 r/min, Janus-SiO2 nanoparticle mass fraction of 1.0%, and water-to-oil volume ratio of 5∶5. The average droplet diameter of the Pickering emulsion thus obtained was approximately 56.6 μm. The Janus-SiO2 nanoparticles exhibited good emulsification performance, which could stabilize high internal phase emulsion and have low-energy emulsification and broad oil phase universality. The results of stability test demonstrated that the Pickering emulsion prepared remained stable at room temperature for more than two months and maintained stability in the temperature range of 4 to 90 ℃. The Pickering emulsion could be formed even when the aqueous phase had low or high pH or high mass concentrations of NaCl, indicative of excellent resistance to acid, base and electrolyte. In addition, the viscosity of the emulsion increased with increasing electrolyte mass concentration. The O/W Pickering emulsion stabilized with Janus-SiO2 particles exhibited remarkable stability, which had potential for applications in cleaning of oil stains under high-temperature and high-electrolyte conditions.

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    Study on the synthesis and properties of quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants
    Enbo Qin, Lei Zhou, Jue Wang, Huilin Chen, Yuxing Gu, Yuanyou Wang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2025, 55 (1): 49-54.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.01.006
    Abstract105)   HTML4)    PDF(pc) (1643KB)(32)       Save

    Surfactants play important roles in agricultural production by reducing surface tension, promoting liquid penetration, and enhancing adsorption, thereby improving the efficiency of pesticide utilization. A series of quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants NDA-C5 to NDA-C8 were prepared by using N, N-dimethyldecylamine and fatty acids as raw materials through quaternization reaction and ion exchange reaction. The structures were characterized by FT-IR, 1H NMR and 13C NMR. The wetting and penetration, spreading, static surface tension, and dynamic surface tension were studied. The results showed that among the series of products, NDA-C8 exhibited the best performance. When the mass fraction of NDA-C8 was 0.100% (w/%), the static surface tension was reduced to 25.9 mN/m, the wetting time was 260 s, and the spreading area on superhydrophobic organic glass reached 102 mm2.In addition, NDA-C8 demonstrated excellent dynamic surface tension performance, with the surface tension rapidly decreasing from 53.3 mN/m to 34.2 mN/m in the range of 0.01 s to 1 s. The quaternary ammonium cation had good interfacial activity, and the adsorption diffusion coefficient at the interface further increased with the increase of the carbon chain length of counterion, so that the surface active properties were improved. In contrast to static surface tension, dynamic surface tension could more accurately reflect the situation in actual use. Furthermore, the preparation process of this series of products was simple, and the cost of raw materials was low, so they had promising application prospects.

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    Advances in laboratory methods for testing whitening efficacy of oral care products
    Han Qiao, Mengxuan Wu, Zihang Liu, Shujun Cheng
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (10): 1260-1267.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.10.014
    Abstract101)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (6933KB)(50)       Save

    The whitening effect of oral care products refers to the whitening effect achieved by removing stains, pigments and plaque on the surface of teeth. Commonly used oral whitening care products include whitening toothpaste, mouthwash, whitening tooth strips, whitening gels, etc. It is evident that whitening effect remains the primary concern of consumers from the market share of oral care products. At home and abroad, there are numerous reports of false advertising and exaggerated efficacy of oral care products for whitening, which trigger high social attention and affect the development of oral care industry. Therefore, the establishment of a complete efficacy evaluation system not only meets the market demand, but also helps to improve the scientific supervision level of products with whitening efficacy claims. The design principles, experimental procedures, detection techniques and result analyses of laboratory methods for assessing the whitening efficacy of oral care products are reviewed, focusing on both domestic and international approaches. The four dimensions of model preparation, staining method, whitening process and application evaluation are compared to standardize the whitening efficacy assessment methods for oral care products. Scientific and rigorous standardization suggestions are put forward, which provide data support for the establishment of a complete set of laboratory methods for efficacy testing of oral whitening care products.

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