超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法测定化妆品中12种美白成分

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2026.01.016

Abstract

Abstract:

An ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry （UPLC-MS/MS） method was developed and validated for the simultaneous determination of twelve whitening ingredients in cosmetics. The sample preparation, liquid chromatography and mass spectrometric conditions were optimized. The optimized conditions were as follows: the samples were ultrasonically extracted with 50% methanol aqueous solution containing 0.025% formic acid, and filtered by polytetrafluoroethylene （PTFE） membrane. Adequate chromatographic retention was achieved on a Waters BEH C₁₈ column under gradient elution with acetonitrile and 0.01% formic acid aqueous solution. A triple-quadrupole mass spectrometer equipped with an electrospray source was set up in the both positive and negative ion mode for multiple reaction monitoring （MRM）. The results show that among the three cosmetics with different types of matrices, the linearity of the twelve whitening agents is good in the concentration ranges, with the correlation coefficient （R） greater than 0.995. The limits of detection （LOD） and limits of quantitation （LOQ） are 0.06-15.00 mg/kg and 0.20-50.00 mg/kg, respectively. Spike recovery is performed on three cosmetics at three different spike levels, and the average recoveries in different types of cosmetics are in the range of 78.6%-111.8% with the relative standard deviation of 1.0%-6.2%（n=6）. The validated method is successfully applied to the determination of 12 components in 18 batches of cosmetics. The results indicate that the quantitative method is simple and accurate. It is suitable for quantitative determination and qualitative confirmation of the 12 whitening agents in different matrices of cosmetics.

Key words: cosmetics, whitening ingredients, UPLC-MS/MS

CLC Number:

TQ658

Huixiang Liu, Feiyan Diao, Xiaoyun Wu, Junjie Li, Chunlin Liu, Qiyan Li. Determination of 12 whitening ingredients in cosmetics using UPLC-MS/MS[J].China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(1): 129-136.

Figures/Tables 4

Tab.1

Fig.1

Tab.2

Linear ranges, linear equations, determination coefficients, LODs and LOQs of 12 whitening agents in different matrices"

序号	组分名称	基质名称	质量浓度范围/(ng/mL)	线性回归方程	R	检出限/(mg/kg)	定量限/(mg/kg)
1	抗坏血酸磷酸酯镁	溶剂	500~5 000	Y=2.33X+9.51×10²	0.999 3	15.00	50.00
		膏霜	500~5 000	Y=2.22X+5.56×10²	0.998 4	15.00	50.00
		水乳	500~5 000	Y=2.67X+6.78×10²	0.997 5	15.00	50.00
		面膜	500~5 000	Y=3.42X+2.55×10²	0.999 1	15.00	50.00
2	抗坏血酸葡糖苷	溶剂	10~200	Y=2.03×10²X+2.01×10²	0.998 8	0.30	1.00
		膏霜	10~200	Y=2.30×10²X+5.65×10²	0.999 0	0.30	1.00
		水乳	10~200	Y=1.89×10²X+2.39×10²	0.999 1	0.30	1.00
		面膜	10~200	Y=3.10×10²X+5.77×10²	0.999 0	0.30	1.00
3	烟酸	溶剂	2~40	Y=1.95×10⁴X+1.29×10³	0.999 8	0.06	0.20
		膏霜	2~40	Y=1.66×10⁴X+5.19×10³	0.999 7	0.06	0.20
		水乳	2~40	Y=1.83×10⁴X-9.65×10²	0.999 8	0.06	0.20
		面膜	2~40	Y=1.73×10⁴X+3.21×10³	0.999 0	0.06	0.20
4	烟酰胺	溶剂	2~40	Y=2.81×10⁴X+1.63×10⁴	0.999 2	0.06	0.20
		膏霜	2~40	Y=2.77×10⁴X+1.43×10⁴	0.999 7	0.06	0.20
		水乳	2~40	Y=2.78×10⁴X+1.90×10⁴	0.999 7	0.06	0.20
		面膜	2~40	Y=2.54×10⁴X+2.24×10⁴	0.999 5	0.06	0.20
5	β-熊果苷	溶剂	100~2 000	Y=1.91×10¹X+5.59×10²	0.999 3	3.00	10.00
		膏霜	100~2 000	Y=1.92×10¹X+6.69×10²	0.999 5	3.00	10.00
		水乳	100~2 000	Y=1.92×10¹X+2.67×10²	0.998 7	3.00	10.00
		面膜	100~2 000	Y=1.90×10¹X+7.16×10¹	0.999 0	3.00	10.00
6	曲酸	溶剂	50~1 000	Y=3.92×10²X+9.32×10¹	0.999 9	1.50	5.00
		膏霜	50~1 000	Y=3.90×10²X+1.56×10³	0.999 7	1.50	5.00
		水乳	50~1 000	Y=3.91×10²X-1.70×10³	0.999 7	1.50	5.00
		面膜	50~1 000	Y=3.97×10²X+7.57×10²	0.999 8	1.50	5.00
7	3 - O - 乙基抗坏血酸	溶剂	10~200	Y=1.86×10³X+4.59×10³	0.999 3	0.30	1.00
		膏霜	10~200	Y=1.30×10³X+9.53×10²	0.999 8	0.30	1.00
		水乳	10~200	Y=1.87×10³X+1.10×10³	0.998 6	0.30	1.00
		面膜	10~200	Y=4.83×10²X-8.79×10²	0.999 7	0.30	1.00
8	红景天苷	溶剂	50~1 000	Y=1.16×10²X+1.60×10³	0.998 9	1.50	5.00
		膏霜	50~1 000	Y=1.08×10²X+1.86×10³	0.999 0	1.50	5.00
		水乳	50~1 000	Y=1.17×10²X+1.68×10³	0.995 0	1.50	5.00
		面膜	50~1 000	Y=9.97×10¹X+4.66×10³	0.999 7	1.50	5.00
9	覆盆子酮葡糖苷	溶剂	50~1 000	Y=7.25×10¹X+6.22×10³	0.997 7	1.50	5.00
		膏霜	50~1 000	Y=5.49×10¹X+4.62×10³	0.996 3	1.50	5.00
		水乳	50~1 000	Y=7.35×10¹X+5.33×10³	0.996 7	1.50	5.00
		面膜	50~1 000	Y=6.15×10¹X+4.76×10³	0.997 0	1.50	5.00
10	4-甲氧基水杨酸钾	溶剂	2~40	Y=1.35×10³X-1.65×10²	0.999 5	0.06	0.20
		膏霜	2~40	Y=1.30×10³X-1.18×10²	0.999 6	0.06	0.20
		水乳	2~40	Y=1.32×10³X-1.17×10²	0.999 8	0.06	0.20
		面膜	2~40	Y=1.31×10³X-1.84×10¹	0.999 6	0.06	0.20
11	甘草酸二钾	溶剂	50~1 000	Y=1.99×10²X+2.32×10²	0.999 7	1.50	5.00
		膏霜	50~1 000	Y=1.79×10²X-4.83×10²	0.999 1	1.50	5.00
		水乳	50~1 000	Y=1.86×10²X+2.89×10²	0.999 6	1.50	5.00
		面膜	50~1 000	Y=1.77×10²X+6.43×10²	0.999 8	1.50	5.00
12	4-丁基间苯二酚	溶剂	200~4 000	Y=1.44X-4.81×10¹	0.997 5	6.00	20.00
		膏霜	200~4 000	Y=1.31X-3.42×10¹	0.998 3	6.00	20.00
		水乳	200~4 000	Y=1.40X-6.70	0.998 0	6.00	20.00
		面膜	200~4 000	Y=1.28X-6.63	0.998 6	6.00	20.00

Tab.2

Tab.3

References 22

[1]	杨枭, 刘源, 封悦, 等. 美白化妆品的综述[J]. 中国洗涤用品工业, 2024(4): 54-65.
[2]	杨小玉, 刘金俊, 刘蕾, 等. 黑色素的生成代谢机制及研究方法进展[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2023, 53(10): 1194-1203.
[3]	胡积东, 王海瑞. 美白化妆品活性成分及其检测方法研究进展[J]. 日用化学品科学, 2022, 45(8): 48-52.
[4]	黄媛媛, 高平, 王秀桥, 等. 浅议祛斑美白类化妆品中功效成分及其检测技术研究进展[J]. 当代化工研究, 2023(19): 32-34.
[5]	顾宇翔, 周友娥, 熊智, 等. 化妆品中常用祛斑美白成分稳定性的研究进展[J]. 香料香精化妆品, 2023(1): 127-132,137.
[6]	陈欣, 陈金文, 陈韦韦, 等. 温度和pH对烟酰胺生成烟酸的影响[J]. 香料香精化妆品, 2023(6): 6-11.
[7]	吴晓云, 李思龙, 刁飞燕, 等. 多波长HPLC-DAD法同时测定美白类化妆品中8种甘草化学成分[J]. 药学研究, 2023, 42(9): 680-684.
[8]	刘莹, 陈刚, 丁波, 等. 高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中10种美白成分[J]. 化学分析计量, 2023, 32(8): 75-79.
[9]	陈思敏, 吴映璇, 邵琳智, 等. 高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中的19种美白功效成分[J]. 广东化工, 2023, 50(5): 182-184.
[10]	陶薇, 李翔. 高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中24种美白成分[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(4): 484-489.
[11]	吴姣娇, 赵薇, 潘小红, 等. 高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中25种美白成分[J]. 化学分析计量, 2025, 34(1): 26-33.
[12]	代静, 高家敏, 曹进, 等. 高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中12种美白功效成分[J]. 香料香精化妆品, 2020(1): 45-50.
[13]	高家敏, 代静, 李红霞, 等. 高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中17种美白成分[J]. 药物分析杂志, 2019, 39(9): 1643-1650. doi: 10.16155/j.0254-1793.2019.09.14
[14]	陈沛金, 梁宏, 肖锋, 等. 高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中的10种美白活性成分及2种禁用成分[J]. 分析测试学报, 2017, 36(3): 403-408.
[15]	张斌, 钱叶飞, 闵春燕, 等. 超高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中7种美白成分[J]. 日用化学工业, 2016, 46(2): 118-122.
[16]	严倩云, 韩晓萍. 化妆品中α-熊果苷等4种原料的含量测定及方法确认[J]. 中国标准化, 2024(23): 215-220.
[17]	吕琼芳, 丁佳佳, 梁郁迎. 高效液相色谱-荧光检测法测定化妆品中α-熊果苷、熊果苷、氢醌和苯酚的含量[J]. 分析仪器, 2024(6): 11-16.
[18]	邹孝, 颜李秀, 骆小方, 等. UPLC-MS/MS快速测定化妆品中七种美白活性成分[J]. 轻工标准与质量, 2023(2): 79-81,92.
[19]	童兰艳, 肖昭竞, 李根容, 等. 超高效液相色谱-三重四极杆质谱法测定化妆品中14种美白活性成分[J]. 分析试验室, 2022, 41(1): 96-102.
[20]	邓映明, 陈媛, 邓美凌, 等. 液质联用法测定甘草组方化妆品中4种标志性成分[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(12): 1278-1282.
[21]	王昌钊, 李子豪, 王一欣, 等. UPLC-MS/MS法测定化妆品中5种美白剂[J]. 日用化学工业(中英文), 2024, 54(7): 873-878.
[22]	陈少波, 蒲云月, 余雯静, 等. 气相色谱-质谱法测定化妆品中苯酚和氢醌[J]. 分析测试技术与仪器, 2017, 23(3): 176-179.

编号	物质名称	分子式	保留时间/min	母离子(m/z)	加和方式	子离子(m/z)	CE/V
1	抗坏血酸磷酸酯镁	C₆H₇MgO₉P	0.75	254.9	[M-Mg+H]^-	237.2^*	11
1	抗坏血酸磷酸酯镁	C₆H₇MgO₉P	0.75	254.9	[M-Mg+H]^-	79.0	16
2	抗坏血酸葡糖苷	C₁₂H₁₈O₁₁	0.89	337.3	[M-H]^-	277.0^*	18
2	抗坏血酸葡糖苷	C₁₂H₁₈O₁₁	0.89	337.3	[M-H]^-	174.0	23
3	烟酸	C₆H₅NO₂	1.22	124.2	[M+H]⁺	80.1^*	22
3	烟酸	C₆H₅NO₂	1.22	124.2	[M+H]⁺	53.1	29
4	烟酰胺	C₆H₆N₂O	2.02	123.25	[M+H]⁺	80.1^*	21
4	烟酰胺	C₆H₆N₂O	2.02	123.25	[M+H]⁺	53.15	27
5	β-熊果苷	C₁₂H₁₆O₇	2.42	271.05	[M-H]^-	161.2^*	6
5	β-熊果苷	C₁₂H₁₆O₇	2.42	271.05	[M-H]^-	109.25	16
6	曲酸	C₆H₆O₄	2.43	143.25	[M+H]⁺	97.05^*	17
6	曲酸	C₆H₆O₄	2.43	143.25	[M+H]⁺	113.05	25
7	3-O-乙基抗坏血酸	C₈H₁₂O₆	4.70	205.2	[M+H]⁺	95.05^*	14
7	3-O-乙基抗坏血酸	C₈H₁₂O₆	4.70	205.2	[M+H]⁺	157.05	9
8	红景天苷	C₁₄H₂₀O₇	4.86	345.0	[M+HCOO]^-	299.0^*	14
8	红景天苷	C₁₄H₂₀O₇	4.86	345.0	[M+HCOO]^-	119.0	12
9	覆盆子酮葡糖苷	C₁₆H₂₂O₇	5.33	349.3	[M+Na]⁺	187.1^*	21
9	覆盆子酮葡糖苷	C₁₆H₂₂O₇	5.33	349.3	[M+Na]⁺	185.05	19
10	4-甲氧基水杨酸钾	C₈H₇KO₄	6.99	167.3	[M-K]^-	108.0^*	19
10	4-甲氧基水杨酸钾	C₈H₇KO₄	6.99	167.3	[M-K]^-	123.0	14
11	甘草酸二钾	C₄₂H₆₀K₂O₁₆	7.51	821.65	[M-2K+H]^-	193.2^*	44
11	甘草酸二钾	C₄₂H₆₀K₂O₁₆	7.51	821.65	[M-2K+H]^-	351.25	37
12	4-丁基间苯二酚	C₁₀H₁₄O₂	7.78	165.2	[M-H]^-	123.0^*	15
12	4-丁基间苯二酚	C₁₀H₁₄O₂	7.78	165.2	[M-H]^-	108.0	19

序号	组分名称	添加水平/(mg/kg)	水乳		膏霜		面膜
序号	组分名称	添加水平/(mg/kg)	平均值/%	RSD/%	平均值/%	RSD/%	平均值/%	RSD/%
1	抗坏血酸磷酸酯镁	100.0	105.5	2.3	105.7	3.0	99.4	2.0
		200.0	99.4	2.7	104.3	2.8	103.1	2.2
		400.0	102.3	3.0	97.4	1.8	99.4	2.1
2	抗坏血酸葡糖苷	2.0	100.8	4.0	97.4	2.1	91.0	4.6
		5.0	100.2	1.8	104.7	4.5	93.7	3.1
		16.0	101.0	1.2	103.1	4.1	100.0	2.7
3	烟酸	0.4	107.5	3.2	102.0	2.5	99.7	2.5
		1.0	106.3	1.9	101.1	2.7	100.2	1.4
		3.2	100.6	1.8	101.5	1.6	101.1	2.3
4	烟酰胺	0.4	104.2	3.0	98.9	2.7	97.8	2.3
		1.0	97.0	3.4	97.0	1.7	95.6	3.0
		3.2	103.7	3.3	98.1	1.9	97.3	3.4
5	β-熊果苷	20.0	103.4	3.0	94.5	3.0	105.7	2.0
		50.0	97.1	3.9	95.3	2.4	100.5	2.5
		160.0	102.7	2.0	99.2	3.0	103.4	1.6
6	曲酸	10.0	102.6	2.7	96.7	2.8	95.4	1.9
		25.0	101.9	1.0	101.3	1.7	102.5	2.0
		80.0	103.2	1.5	101.0	1.7	101.5	1.8
7	3-O-乙基抗坏血酸	2.0	101.4	2.8	96.5	2.6	100.3	2.5
		5.0	104.1	1.2	99.0	2.5	99.9	2.2
		16.0	103.0	2.9	99.5	3.1	102.1	3.6
8	红景天苷	10.0	99.9	2.5	96.7	3.5	94.6	2.2
		25.0	100.8	1.1	88.6	3.5	88.4	2.4
		80.0	94.8	2.6	99.1	1.8	103.8	1.6
9	覆盆子酮葡糖苷	10.0	101.2	3.7	95.0	2.4	98.1	3.2
		25.0	111.8	1.2	110.7	2.0	111.7	2.0
		80.0	96.9	2.1	100.2	4.1	100.0	2.7
10	4-甲氧基水杨酸钾	0.4	102.6	3.7	95.0	4.6	95.4	6.1
		1.0	96.0	4.8	100.2	2.7	96.2	3.1
		3.2	102.9	2.4	102.1	2.3	101.0	1.9
11	甘草酸二钾	10.0	98.3	3.9	106.7	2.8	100.7	3.7
		25.0	99.8	1.8	97.8	3.7	92.8	2.8
		80.0	102.6	2.3	102.1	2.0	101.6	1.5
12	4-丁基间苯二酚	40.0	78.6	4.8	98.1	6.2	100.8	5.9
		100.0	94.9	4.9	98.6	4.8	106.3	5.6
		320.0	92.0	5.6	95.2	5.7	109.1	2.0

Determination of 12 whitening ingredients in cosmetics using UPLC-MS/MS

RichHTML

PDF (PC)

Like

Knowledge

Abstract

Cite this article

share this article

Figures/Tables 4

References 22

Related Articles 15

Metrics

Comments

Recommended 0

[1]	Lingli Wang, Tingting Li, Ting Ren, Zhengrui Niu, Zhenxi Yu. Current status and reflection on change management for special cosmetics in China [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2026, 56(1): 114-121.
[2]	Jiayao Dai, Huai Tao, Zuowei Xiao, Yimiao Zhou. Determination of 8 heavy metals in cosmetics by inductively coupled plasma emission spectrometry [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(9): 1215-1220.
[3]	Zhaohui Yang, Xiang Qiu, Yuqi Li, Huanhuan Zhao, Erming Wu, Zhiwei Cheng. Advancements in the integration and utilization of plant cell engineering technology in cosmetic ingredient development [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(8): 1049-1057.
[4]	Lu Wang, Dan Ran, Hui Wang, Shaotong He, Lulu Pi, Nan Deng. Detection of pyoluteorin and pyocyanin in cosmetics using UPLC-MS/MS method [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(8): 1066-1071.
[5]	Deng Hong, Jiang Zhou, Yuan Yan, Fanzhen Shang, Ting Liu, Liangli Wang, Wen Xie. Simultaneous determination of 5 prohibited phenols in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(8): 1072-1077.
[6]	Ruina Liu, Biao Jiang, Yafang Lin, Lizhe Yang, Lei Zhai, Kun Li, Su Yao. Suitability study of amplified ATP bioluminescence assay for microbial detection of cosmetics based on two cultivation systems [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(7): 909-919.
[7]	Xu Gong, Jing Sun, Youlong Feng. Determination of 7 prostaglandin analogsin eyelash-related cosmetics by UPLC-QTRAP-MS/MS [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(6): 811-816.
[8]	Yajun Yang, Chang Liu. Research on packaging design and application of women’s daily cosmetics based on emotional perspective [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(5): 659-667.
[9]	Ting Li, Ziying Ma, Jiquan Liu, Shenghui Cui, Yu Jing, Feirong Bai, Su Yao. Establishment and feasibility study of a dual enrichment system for amplified ATP bioluminescence microbial detection assay in cosmetics [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(5): 668-676.
[10]	Pinyi Ma, Jingkang Li, Dejiang Gao, Daqian Song. MOFs-Functionalized melamine sponge columns combined with high-performance liquid chromatography for determination of parabens in cosmetics [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(5): 548-553.
[11]	Weidong Huang. Determination of 10 indicative components from plant materials in whitening cosmetics by UPLC-MS/MS [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(4): 531-538.
[12]	Keran Feng, Xiaoming Wu, Liangbo Ma, Yu Sun. Determination of 21 nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(3): 399-406.
[13]	Huamin Liu, Yue Cai, Junjie Nian, Fengqin Wu, Chao Yao, Haoguan Gui. Preparation of titanium dioxide@aluminum hydroxide-sodium alginate composite nanoparticles and their application in sunscreen lotions [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(12): 1575-1581.
[14]	Yueheng Liu, Xueyu Qian, Di Wu, Hui Huang, Chenyi Li, Munan Su. Analysis of patent technology of TRP family application in soothing cosmetics [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(12): 1589-1599.
[15]	Huiduan Long, Yixiang Lu, Erdan Hu, Keming Zhang. Simultaneous determination of 48 allergic substances in cosmetics by gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry [J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2025, 55(12): 1616-1628.