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    The mechanism and symptoms of acne and the functions and types of acne skin care products
    HE Ling-ling,ZHANG Yi,GONG Qiu-jun,ZHANG Qing
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (5): 336-342.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.05.010
    Abstract867)   HTML57)    PDF(pc) (815KB)(3585)       Save

    Acne is a kind of inflammatory skin disease which easily occurs on adolescent. Many factors can cause acne, including endocrine dyscrasia, abnormal keratinization and so on. The mechanism and symptoms of acne have been introduced, in which the symptoms include different clinical features, according to China acne treatment guide, and scar. The efficacy of anti-acne skin care products are introduced in detail based on the mechanism. Several types of skin care products are briefly introduced. It is necessary to choose proper functional products to cope with different symptoms. Finally, we are looking forward to the correct usage of products and the complement of acne mechanism.

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    An overview of skin penetration test methods for cosmetics
    SONG Yan-qing,PAN Yao,ZHAO Hua
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (12): 824-829.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.12.010
    Abstract1711)   HTML93)    PDF(pc) (1895KB)(2694)       Save

    The approaches and theories of skin penetration of cosmetics were summarized. The in vitro and in vivo of transdermal absorption, such as diffusion cell methods, tape stripping and spectroscopy were introduced. A new idea for evaluating the transdermal absorption capacity of cosmetics was provided and the development trend of the cosmetics skin penetration evaluation methods was proposed.

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    Efficacy evaluation of cosmetics (XⅢ)Consumer use testing
    LIU Wei-Yi,ZHOU Lin,ZHAO Hua
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (6): 485-490.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.002
    Abstract5054)   HTML202)    PDF(pc) (965KB)(2128)       Save

    Cosmetic efficacy claims should have a scientific basis. Efficacy evaluation is one of the very important aspects for cosmetics, including human-body efficacy evaluation, laboratory test and consumer use test. Herein, relevant requirements for consumers to use test methods in “Cosmetics Efficacy Claim Evaluation Standards” have been introduced. Procedures of consumer use testing include asking questions, clarifying the required information, designing information collection methods, organizing and implementing data collection, sorting and analyzing data, reporting and interpreting survey results, etc. The preparation stage of consumer test needs to determine the selection and exclusion criteria of consumers, the number of consumers, complete the product safety evaluation, and determine the test plan. According to the purpose, the test method can be divided into qualitative test and quantitative test. According to the method, it can be divided into interview, questionnaire test and consumer diary. Data analysis methods can be divided into descriptive statistical analysis, regression analysis, and correlation analysis. Among them, methods of descriptive analysis are the most widely used, using general data, tabulation and graphs to make trend analysis, frequency analysis and dispersion degree analysis, etc. Finally, the functions, writing requirements and precautions of the report of consumer use testing, have been described, which can provide reference for the design of consumer use testing in cosmetic efficacy evaluation. In the future, consumer use testing will be closely linked with enterprises. It is an easy, efficient, and cost-effective testing method that is worthy of widespread adoption. In addition, it can also provide companies with more scientific and practical consumer information, and it can help companies develop markets, win consumers, and improve consumption levels, and avoid the blindness of corporate production. However, because there is no precise instrument for qualitative measurement, the data may be affected by consumer subjective factors, resulting in data that are not as objective as data from human-body efficacy evaluation test or laboratory test. To ensure the accuracy of the data to the greatest extent, it is necessary to grasp the selection of subjects, sample size, information collection method, organization and implementation of the experiment, statistical analysis of data, interpretation of results, etc. Thus it can provide scientific support for cosmetic efficacy claims and provide a reliable basis for product development and market positioning.

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    The efficacy of silymarin in dermatology and its application in cosmetics
    YANG Yan-yin,YANG Zhi-guo,HU Shi-guo,LI Yan,XUE Qiang,SUN Hua-fu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (4): 259-263.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.04.011
    Abstract930)   HTML27)    PDF(pc) (803KB)(2046)       Save

    The efficacy and mechanism of silymarin in dermatology were reviewed, including anti-light damage, antioxidant, delaying skin aging, whitening, hair protection, treatment of chloasma, rosacea and scar repair. The applications of silymarin in cosmetics were introduced, including sunscreen cream, essence cream, eye cream, lotion, mask, etc. A broader application of silymarin in cosmetics industry was also prospected.

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    Advances in the applications of Pickering emulsion in cosmetics
    YU Ming-ying,WANG Jing,YANG Cheng,CAO Guang-qun
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (6): 398-402.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.06.009
    Abstract1115)   HTML88)    PDF(pc) (1233KB)(1928)       Save

    The recent progress in the applications of Pickering emulsion in cosmetics has been reviewed, including the preparation and stability of Pickering emulsions by some typical nanoparticles that available in cosmetics, the potential application of Pickering emulsion in encapsulation, controlled release and transdermal delivery of functional ingredients, and the advantages of Pickering emulsion polymerization in the fabrication of polymeric microspheres. The perspective in the future on application of Pickering emulsion in cosmetics has also been given.

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    Preparation and performance evaluation of oil soluble viscosity reducer for heavy oil fields in Canada
    Xiao Sa,Sun Yubao,Wang Shaohua,Wu Chunzhou,Shu Zhan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (9): 832-838.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.09.004
    Abstract288)   HTML19)    PDF(pc) (1403KB)(1876)       Save

    M oilfield in Canada is characterized by low temperature, shallow buried depth, high viscosity of crude oil, less water cut and poor fluidity. Due to the high content of resin and asphaltene, it is very difficult to recover the crude oil by conventional mining method. It is necessary to reduce the viscosity of the crude oil from M oilfield in Canada. Oil soluble viscosity reduction technology has stable viscosity reduction effect on heavy oil and saves the steps of produced fluid demulsification and dehydration. In recent years, the research on oil soluble viscosity reducer at home and abroad has developed rapidly. Due to the great differences in the composition and characteristics of heavy oil in different regions, the adaptability to oil soluble viscosity reducer is different. According to the characteristics of heavy oil in M oilfield, an oil soluble viscosity reducer PH-OV was developed. The results show that the optimum composition of PH-OV is 4% esterified polyether +15% diethylene glycol dibutyl ether +81% aromatic solvent oil. When the dosage of PH-OV is 3%, the viscosity reduction rate can reach 85.2%; when the dosage of PH-OV is more than 5%, the viscosity reduction rate can reach more than 80% within 14-80 ℃. The SEM chart show that the viscosity reducer PH-OV can effectively destroy the aggregation structure of crude oil, disperse resin and asphaltene, inhibit the formation of macromolecular aggregates and reduce viscosity. With the increase of water content of crude oil, the viscosity reduction rate increases. When the water content is 60%, the viscosity reduction rate reaches 98.5%. The viscosity reducer can effectively reduce the yield value of crude oil, and the viscosity reduction performance of crude oil can be stable for more than 168 h. With the increase of viscosity reducer, the yield value of crude oil decreases significantly, which can effectively reduce the initial starting pressure of crude oil. The efficiency of PH-OV assisting cold water flooding can reach 30.03%, which is 12.86% higher than that of cold water flooding. The oil soluble viscosity reducer PH-OV is suitable for cold recovery of heavy oil in M oilfield, and has the potential to effectively enhance oil recovery.

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    Efficacy evaluation of cosmetics (Ⅻ)Application of cutaneous biological test in efficacy evaluation of cosmetics
    MA Xue,SONG Yan-qing,PAN Yao,ZHAO Hua,LU Yong-bo,FAN Zhan-hua
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (1): 14-19.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.003
    Abstract812)   HTML39)    PDF(pc) (864KB)(1868)       Save

    The concept of cutaneous biological test was summarized, and the application of cutaneous biological test methods and indicators in the efficacy evaluation of cosmetics including morphology, lipidomics, microbiome, and physiological function were introduced. It provided a reference and guidance for the selection of appropriate cutaneous biological indicators in the evaluation of efficacy of various cosmetics. The current status and development trends of cutaneous biological test were summarized and prospected.

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    Construction of a comprehensive evaluation model for the facial skin of young and middle-aged women based on the Chinese female skin database
    Yang Xiaoxiao,Li Zeqiao,Zhang Baojiang,Zhao Mengmeng,Wang Zixu,Du Yijie,Yi Fan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2022, 52 (1): 56-61.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.01.009
    Abstract445)   HTML25)    PDF(pc) (1081KB)(1823)       Save

    The changes in the appearance of facial skin are an obvious physiological phenomenon in the process of human aging. People are increasingly concerned about the comprehensive skin status. In recent years, newly developed instruments or methods have continuously emerged in the field of non-invasive skin testing. Skin testing and skin photography are the most widely used. Through the analysis of skin testing and skin photography data, objective and true skin data can be obtained to quantify the skin status. Therefore, it is necessary and feasible to establish a new comprehensive skin condition evaluation model to achieve objective and accurate quantification of skin status. Herein, 1,085 female volunteers aged 22-42 were randomly selected from the Chinese Female Skin Testing Database (Beijing Technology and Business University). The data of skin physiological indicators, VISIA front face and left face cross-polarized light image data (extracted by machine learning algorithms) were collected for correlation analysis between indicators and principal component analysis (PCA) to obtain the core indicators for evaluating individual skin status. KMO test and Bartlett’s test sphere test were used to test the reliability of the principal component data, and the coefficients of each item in the evaluation model were calculated by the method of principal component analysis. There were 10 core indicators related to skin conditions, including age, skin elasticity, skin glossiness, melanin content, heme content, skin moisture content, transdermal water loss, ITA°, sebum secretion, and pores. Eventually, a comprehensive skin status evaluation model was constructed, and the quantified skin score could be obtained by inputting the data of skin physiological indicators into the model. This model gives an objective quantitative judgment on the comprehensive skin condition of women, which avoids the influences of the surrounding environment and the personal subjective consciousness from the naked eye judgment and solves the limitation of time and space for skin evaluation. Collecting relevant index data can be effective on women’s skin evaluation. The research results can provide technical support for comprehensive evaluation of women’s skin status.

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    Cosmetic emulsions and new technologies of emulsification (II) Construction and application of water-in-water emulsions
    CHEN Feng-feng,QI Jia-yue,NI Xin-jiong,LI Yun-xing,YANG Cheng,SUN Ya-juan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (4): 272-280.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.04.002
    Abstract795)   HTML41)    PDF(pc) (1467KB)(1813)       Save

    The development of preparation technology of water-in-water emulsions has been reviewed. Firstly, the research status of water-in-water emulsions is briefly summarized, then the modulation of morphology and particle size of water-in-water emulsions is introduced, and the stability of the reinforced water-in-water emulsions is discussed. Finally, the potential applications of water-in-water emulsions in preparation of microgels and drug delivery are introduced, and the future development direction of water-in-water emulsions is prospected. This review might provide some reference for the preparation and application of water-in-water emulsions.

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    Progress in research of skin permeability of cosmetics Evaluation method and enhancement technology
    YANG Man-li,ZHOU Ming-yue,HU Xue-qing,CHEN Feng,HE Cong-fen,JIA Yan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (11): 793-798.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.010
    Abstract1556)   HTML55)    PDF(pc) (893KB)(1633)       Save

    For the transdermal delivery system used in cosmetics, the common methods for promoting penetration have been listed, including chemical permeation-enhancing techniques, nanotechnology (nanoemulsions, nanocrystals, liposomes, niosomes, micelles, etc.), physical permeation-enhancing techniques (iontophoresis, ultrasonic introduction, and microneedle) and biological permeability-promoting technology. The testing methods of transdermal absorption of cosmetics in vitro (in-vitro diffusion cell method, mathematical model, three-dimensional skin model, LC-MS, and Raman spectroscopy) have been briefly introduced, and the future transdermal penetration methods of cosmetics have been prospected.

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    Sensitive scalp and microecologic barrier
    REN Hui,TANG Xiao-qin,CHEN Ming-hua
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (9): 638-642.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.09.010
    Abstract569)   HTML26)    PDF(pc) (844KB)(1632)       Save

    This article reviews the recent studies on sensitive scalp and its relationship with microecological barriers, including the distribution of common microorganisms on the scalp, the interaction between microorganisms and scalp, and the importance of microecological barrier on sensitive scalp. This article discusses the pathway of the positive and negative effects of the microbial community on the scalp, and analyses the common symptoms of sensitive scalp and the corresponding changes of scalp microbiota.

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    Properties of polyglycerol fatty acid esters and its applications in cosmetics
    LIU Xiao-qing,LIU Yu-hang,CHEN Yu-yan,JIANG Li-gang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (2): 118-123.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.008
    Abstract1125)   HTML53)    PDF(pc) (780KB)(1608)       Save

    The synthesis, structure and properties of polyglycerol fatty acid esters were summarized, and the application of polyglycerol fatty acid esters in cosmetics was introduced, including makeup remover products, cleaning products, lotions, O/W creams, W/O creams and make up products. The development trend of polyglycerol fatty acid ester products and its broad application progress in the cosmetics industry were prospected.

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    Application prospect of six common Chinese herbal medicines inanti-hair loss products
    YUAN Yang-ming,ZENG Yan-sheng,MAO Shan-qiao
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (10): 674-680.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.10.008
    Abstract594)   HTML27)    PDF(pc) (1068KB)(1577)       Save

    The mechanism of hair loss was reviewed. The medicinal value of Zingiber officinale Roscoe, Anemarrhena asphodeloides, Carthamus tinctorius(L.), Panax ginseng(C. A. Mey.), Biota orientalis and Resina draconis was also analyzed. Finally, the application of these six Chinese herbal medicines in anti-hair loss products was prospected. The aim was to provide reference for the research of anti-hair loss products of Chinese herbal medicine.

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    Mechanism of skin melanin formation and its intervention
    Zhuo-yi CHEN,Xiao-ying LIU,Ya-ting ZHENG,Ting HONG,Tan-lin LIU,Zhi-yun DU
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (2): 113-117.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.02.010
    Abstract1064)   HTML50)    PDF(pc) (942KB)(1483)       Save

    The mechanism of skin melanin formation is closely related to the study of whitening. Therefore, the formation mechanism of skin melanin and its regulation at the cellular level were reviewed. The intervention mechanism of melanin, including the synthesis pathway, transportation pathway, decomposition and metabolism, and the intervention and regulation of internal and external factors were also deeply analyzed. Finally, the future research trend of skin melanin was prospected.

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    Effect of laureth-6 carboxylic acid on soap-based facial cleansing foam
    LI Fang-fang,TANG Xiao-qin,CHEN Ming-hua
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (9): 590-596.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.09.006
    Abstract1465)   HTML59)    PDF(pc) (1291KB)(1441)       Save

    Cleansing foam is favored by consumers for its convenient use and delicate foam. Based on the soap-based system, the effect of laureth-6 carboxylic acid and pH on foaming capacity and foaming stability of the system were studied. Meanwhile, the effect of laureth-6 carboxylic acid on the skin feeling of the soap-based system was also estimated. Under the condition that the total mass fraction of fatty acid is 9%(with the mass ratio of lauric acid and myristic acid is 2∶1), it shows that foaming capacity and foaming stability of the system are excellent when the mass fraction of lauric acid, myristic acid and laureth-6 carboxylic acid is 4%, 2% and 3% respectively. The pH value has little influence on the system, and the optimum foaming capacity and foaming stability can be reached at the pH value of 9.55. After the consumer research, it is found that lauryeth-6 carboxylic acid can significantly improve the dry skin feel of soap-based facial cleansing foam after washing, and promote the application of the soap-based cleansing foam.

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    Research and application status of ceramide in skin
    He-cong WANG,Cong-fen HE
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (1): 51-57.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.01.011
    Abstract1168)   HTML74)    PDF(pc) (1101KB)(1419)       Save

    The structure, physicochemical properties and main metabolic pathways in ceramide were summarized. The preparation, separation and detection methods of ceramides, as well as its applications in medicine and cosmetics were introduced. The anti-aging and whitening effects of ceramide and its application in different age groups were prospected, which provided a theoretical basis for the wider and safer application of ceramide.

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    Cosmetic emulsions and new technologies of emulsification (I) Fundamental principles of Pickering emulsions and their applications in cosmetics
    CHEN Feng-feng,TAO Sheng-nan,GONG Sui-jing,ZHANG Sheng-wei,SUN Ya-juan,YANG Cheng,LI Yun-xing
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (2): 89-97.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.002
    Abstract2100)   HTML146)    PDF(pc) (1608KB)(1328)       Save

    With the increasing demands for safety and sustainable development, the development of surfactant-free emulsion cosmetics has attracted more and more attention from consumers. Colloidal-particle-stabilized emulsions are known as Pickering emulsions, which have many advantages, such as high stability, good biocompatibility, less foaming during emulsification and environmental friendliness. The Pickering emulsions stabilized by colloidal particles derived from natural plants especially show great commercial potential in cosmetics. In the paper, stabilization mechanism of Pickering emulsions and the influencing factors thereof have been summarized. Then, the advantages to apply Pickering emulsions in cosmetics have been discussed, which will provide a reference for further broadening the practical application of Pickering emulsions in cosmetics.

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    Progress in research work with respect to Pickering emulsion
    LU Jia, TIAN Xiao-xiao, JIN Ye-ling, CHEN Jing, DING Shi-jie
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2014, 44 (8): 460-466.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2014.08.103
    Abstract676)      PDF(pc) (1480KB)(1257)       Save
    Stabilization mechanisms of Pickering emulsion,including mechanical barrier mechanism and three-dimensional viscoelastic particles network mechanism,were introduced.The current research work status about Pickering emulsion covering emulsion stabilized by spherical particles,emulsion stabilized by layered particles as well as various environmental stimuli (such as pH,temperature,electric fields,and magnetic fields et al.) responding type emulsion,were summarized.Meanwhile,the concerning applications of Pickering emulsion such as emulsion polymerization,functional material preparation,drug release,catalyst separation and recycling,were described.At last,the development trend of Pickering emulsion was prospected.
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    Research progress on the chemical constituents and biological effects of Cortex Lycii
    XU He-ran,ZHAO Le,ZHANG Xiao-na,HUA Jing-lin,WANG Min,ZHAO Hua
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (5): 450-456.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.05.013
    Abstract631)   HTML13)    PDF(pc) (1176KB)(1239)       Save

    Cortex Lycii, the dried root bark of Lycium barbarum L. and Lycium chinense Mill. which belongs to Lycium, is a kind of traditional Chinese medicine with a long history of medicine and food and has high biological efficacy and medicinal value. It contains a variety of ingredients, including alkaloids, organic acids, glycosides, sterols, coumarins, anthraquinones, flavonoids, etc. Not only has a wealth of pharmacological activity, but also has the treatment of skin damage and beauty skin care effect. This article aimed at reviewing the recent literatures on its origin and distribution, the effective chemical constituents, pharmacological activity and mechanism, skin care effect and research status of Cortex Lycii so as to look forward to the application prospect of Cortex Lycii as a natural functional raw material in skin care and cosmetics industry.

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    Do we need to regard PFAS as evil? Our points of view
    XING Hang,DOU Zeng-pei,XIAO Zi-bing,XIAO Jin-xin
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (1): 49-53.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.01.009
    Abstract4484)   HTML79)    PDF(pc) (744KB)(1238)       Save

    The ubiquitous distribution of PFOS and PFOA in the globe and biota has induced the criticism from environmental scientists and toxicologists. The international community has established laws and supervision measures to eliminate PFOS and PFOA. Now some scholars begin to fire at the whole class of PFAS (per-,polyfluoroalkyl substances) , and the public argues intensely (fear arise from being not understood). Not all PFAS are verified with health risk, but they are surely blamed by being too stable and thus too difficult to degrade. Recently, a paper titled “How to say goodbye to PFAS” is published on the website of the world’s most influential news magazine in the field of chemical industry named Chemical & Engineering News (C&EN). Many of the view points therein reflect the prevailing opinion, which is against “one-size-fits-all”, that specific substances should be treated differently according to their necessity and substitutability, and that the unchecked growth in production and application of PFAS should be turned around, and that substitutes should be actively pursued. We agree with the thought of this paper, but also have objections mainly addressed on the different view angle and the standard of classification. The author of that paper has focused on the views of environmentalists, while we are researchers and technology developers of PFAS, as well as a manufacturer of some narrow-category PFAS products; the author of that paper takes the perspective of developed countries, while we consider that developing countries should weigh well the way of categorization more carefully and deeply before action. China should positively participate in this historical argument of standard-setting, take into account our own actual conditions, and work out a suitable implementation plan, particularly, do not blindly follow or go ahead radically and rashly.

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    Mechanism, evaluation system and protection of surfactant on skin
    WU Wen-hai,HE Yi-fan,LIU Yu-hong
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (3): 235-242.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.011
    Abstract1247)   HTML34)    PDF(pc) (1008KB)(1235)       Save

    Surfactants are widely used in skin care products and cleansers, but frequent use or improper contact with surfactants can cause skin irritation, sensitivity or barrier function damage, causing skin discomfort. For the safety of skin, this article elucidated the mechanism of surfactants on skin from the structure and composition of the skin that surfactants act on. Furthermore, two evaluation systems for surfactant effect on skin were proposed based on mechanism aforementioned and skin symptoms respectively. Lastly, the active ingredients and their action mechanism to lessen surfactants were illustrated. It is hoped to provide references for the research and development of active ingredients and mild surfactant systems for skin protection.

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    Botanical cosmetic ingredients (VII)Research and development of plant antifungal
    Jingxuan Liu, Jianming Jin, Hua Wu
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2024, 54 (3): 259-266.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.03.003
    Abstract141)   HTML15)    PDF(pc) (1458KB)(1223)       Save

    This paper describes skin fungi and fungal skin infections, and summarizes the antifungal mechanism and the corresponding drug targets of the bioactive compounds from plants. The active antifungal compounds from plants include polyphenols, alkaloids, flavonoids, terpenoids, steroids and essential oils, etc. The main antifungal mechanism is inhibition of fungal cell wall and cell membrane biosynthesis. The target of cell wall biosynthesis inhibition is via inhibiting the activities of β-glucan synthetase, chitin synthase and mannan synthase. And the target of cell membrane biosynthesis inhibition is via inhibiting the synthesis of the structural components, ergosterol and sphingolipids. By inhibiting ergosterol synthetase, serine palmitoyltransferase, ceramide synthase and myo-inositol phosphatidyl ceramide synthase, the active components from plants can also directly bind to ergosterol and sphingolipids and destruct the cell membrane. In addition, phenols, alkaloids, flavonoids, terpenoids and essential oils also target mitochondrion to display antifungal activity, by inducing reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation, inhibiting ATP biosynthesis and proton pumps, and disrupt the mitochondrial respiration and metabolic system. This paper has reviewed the antifungal mechanisms of bioactive compounds from plants, hoping to provide a reference for the applications of plant materials in cosmetics, for a better maintaining of skin health.

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    Research progress of magnetic surfactants
    WANG Jun,ZHANG Chen-long,YANG Xu-zhao,BAI Ya-rong
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (6): 546-553.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.06.012
    Abstract620)   HTML30)    PDF(pc) (1089KB)(1209)       Save

    Magnetic surfactants are a kind of surfactants with both surface activity and magnetic response. The properties of the surfactants can be simply controlled by the “on” and “off” of external magnetic fields. The structure, synthesis, properties and application of magnetic surfactants are reviewed. The counterions with magnetic response and surface active ions can be combined by electrostatic attraction or complexation. Magnetic surfactants have better surface properties than nonmagnetic parent surfactants, such as lower surface tension and smaller cmc. The surface tension of aqueous solutions of magnetic surfactants can be further reduced by external magnetic field. The magnetic moment of a magnetic surfactant is mainly determined by metal ions, and the magnetic moment of alkyl trimethyl ammonium magnetic surfactant is greater than that of alkyl imidazole magnetic surfactant. Magnetic surfactants exhibit unique properties in drug delivery, microemulsion, nanomaterials and sterilization, which indicates that this kind of surfactants have good development prospect.

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    Progress in preparation of nanostructured lipid carriersand its application in cosmetics
    LIU Qing-xia,XU Meng-yi,WEN Zi-min,ZHU Yong-chuang,GONG Sheng-zhao,ZHANG Yong
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (10): 681-687.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.10.009
    Abstract808)   HTML64)    PDF(pc) (802KB)(1209)       Save

    The structural features and preparation technology of nanostructured lipid carrier(NLC)were reviewed. The role and adding forms of NLC in cosmetics were summarized. The research status of NLC as sunscreen carrier, active substance carrier and sustained release carrier in cosmetics was introduced. Furthermore, development outlook of NLC was prospected.

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    Progress in research work field with respect to theory and application of microemulsion
    MAO Xue-bin,DU Zhi-ping,TAI Xiu-mei,LIU Xiao-ying
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2016, 46 (11): 648-653.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2016.11.008
    Abstract590)      PDF(pc) (851KB)(1209)       Save
    Similarities and differences between microemulsion and ordinary emulsion were summarized.Mechanism for formation of microemulsion as well as the research methods for structure and properties of microemulsions were introduced.The applications of microemulsion in different areas were summarized,and its application foreground was prospected.
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    The mechanism of skin glycation reaction, influencing factors and the development status of anti-glycation in the cosmetics industry
    LI Hui-ke,FENG Nan,WANG Wen-bo,LI Jun-xiang,HE Cong-fen
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (2): 153-160.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.02.012
    Abstract1537)   HTML95)    PDF(pc) (1200KB)(1186)       Save

    The formation process of the advanced glycation end product (AGEs) and its effect on the skin were clarified in the paper through the introduction of the mechanism of skin glycation in details and the measures against the skin glycation and the mechanism of action were introduced too. The cosmetic brands and ingredients that claim anti-glycation effects at present were summarized, and the deficiencies in the development of anti-glycation cosmetics in the market were analyzed in personal opinion. It aims to provide solid and scientific theoretical basis for the development of anti-glycation cosmetics.

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    Research progress of chitosan-modified polymeric surfactants
    DU Jing-jing,HAN Xiao-hui,WANG Bo,XU Jing,ZHANG Zhang
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (1): 56-62.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.010
    Abstract573)   HTML24)    PDF(pc) (1261KB)(1112)       Save

    As a green natural biopolymer, chitosan-based polymeric surfactants have attracted more and more attention because of their excellent properties. The common methods for preparation of macromolecular surfactants modified by chitosan were summarized, including alkylation, quaternization, carboxymethylation and acylation. The modification conditions and the properties of products were summarized. The applications and potential applications of chitosan-modified polymeric surfactants in the fields of food, medicine and cosmetics were introduced. The rules in the preparation of chitosan-modified polymeric surfactants were summarized and the development direction was prospected.

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    Research progress of anti-hair loss and hair growth-promoting cosmetic materials
    Yan CONG,Chun-peng JIANG
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (3): 188-193.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.03.009
    Abstract1043)   HTML82)    PDF(pc) (840KB)(1111)       Save

    The anti-hair loss and hair-growth promoting cosmetic materials launched in the market in the recent years were summarized. The function mechanisms of these cosmetic materials were discussed based on the biological characteristics of hair follicle and the pathogenesis of alopecia, especially seborrheic alopecia. The compounding rules of these raw materials were concluded. The future development of these materials for preventing hair loss was prospected.

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    Progress of microbiological detection technology of cosmetics
    WEN Xia, YANG Xiu-jiang, XIE Xiao-bao
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2015, 45 (2): 110-114.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2015.02.012
    Abstract372)      PDF(pc) (858KB)(1107)       Save
    The status of the microbial contamination in cosmetics was briefed.Improvements of traditional testing methods for cosmetic microorganisms as well as the modernized bio-technologies for testing microorganism in cosmetics,including rapid test strip,polymerase chain reaction (PCR),ATP bioluminescence detection,electrical impedance,fluorescent photoelectric method and microbial volatile organic compounds (MVOCs) detection method were summarized emphatically in detail.The simple,quick and accurate modern bio-technological methods were proposed as the core concept and the development trend of the cosmetic microbiological testing.
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    Advances in the applications of microcapsules in cosmetics
    ZHANG Hui-na,HE Yi-fan,LI Li
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (2): 124-128.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.02.009
    Abstract1019)   HTML61)    PDF(pc) (812KB)(1074)       Save

    The development of microcapsule technology was reviewed, the research progress of microcapsules in cosmetics was emphasized, and the application examples of microcapsules in the cosmetics market were highlighted. Finally, the challenges of microcapsule technology were discussed. Based on the current development status of cosmetics, the future development direction of microcapsules in the field of cosmetics was described.

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    Effects of blend essential oil on melanogenesis in B16 cells of mice
    WANG Ying,TANG Yin,WU Ya-ni
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (3): 214-219.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.008
    Abstract431)   HTML17)    PDF(pc) (1504KB)(1066)       Save

    In order to investigate the inhibitory effect of a blend essential oil on tyrosinase activity and melanin content, the composition of this blend essential oil was analyzed by GC-MS. Taking mouse melanoma cells (B16) with high melanin expression induced by melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) as the model, the effects of the blend essential oil on melanocyte vitality were determined by trypan blue staining and CKK8 method. Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and dopa oxidation method were used to measure melanin content and tyrosinase activity in cells. The results showed that the blend essential oil contained a large number of compounds such as pinene (26.19%) , linalool (12.98%) , santalol (9.39%) , linalyl acetate (9.16%) , etc.; the blend essential oil had no toxicity to B16 cells when the mass concentration was less than 0.1 g/L, and the cell proliferation rate was higher than 90%; the blend essential oil at different mass concentrations could significantly inhibit the tyrosinase activity and melanin content in B16 cells induced by α-MSH. When the mass concentration of blend essential oil was 0.1 g/L,it had the best inhibitory effect on melanin production, and the inhibitory rates on tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis were 51.27% and 36.03%, respectively. In conclusion, the blend plant essential oil could significantly inhibit melanin synthesis and inhibit the tyrosinase activity in B16 cells.

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    Efficacy study of antisebum GMP in the treatment of acne vulgaris
    Yi-na LU,Guang-yin WANG,Hong XIE,Zhi-yong XIE
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (1): 29-33.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.01.007
    Abstract1148)   HTML27)    PDF(pc) (1257KB)(1050)       Save

    The solution of antisebum GMP which consists of the extracts from the peels of Garcinia Mangostana, Magnolia Officinalis, and Punica Granatum has been used to study its efficacy in anti-lipid peroxidation, oil control, anti-bacteria and anti-inflammation. The results show that GMP has significant inhibitory effect on lipid peroxidation at the mass concentration of 1%. After the treatment of sebaceous gland cells with GMP (0.1%) for 24 h, the mRNA expression levels of insulin like receptor (IGF1R) and peroxisome proliferator activated receptor (PPARγ) can be remarkably down-regulated to reduce the intracellular lipid synthesis in the cells. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) of GMP on Propionibacterium acnes is 0.03%. On the model of macrophage inflammation induced by Propionibacterium acnes, GMP can also inhibit the expression of interleukin 6 (IL6), prostaglandin E2 (PGE2) and nitric oxide (NO) in a dose-dependent manner. Therefore, as a natural active ingredient, GMP can play a role in anti-acne aiming at the various factors in the pathogenesis of acne vulgaris.

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    Study on antibacterial activity of plant essential oils and its application in cosmetics
    Yu-hao GUI,Xiao MENG,Qing-sheng CHEN,Sheng-zhao GONG
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (3): 187-192.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.010
    Abstract664)   HTML30)    PDF(pc) (731KB)(1042)       Save

    Through bacteriostatic tests of six essential oils, it is found that cinnamon essential oil, rose essential oil and sweet orange essential oil have better antibacterial activity, and the cinnamon essential oil which contains high content of aldehyde has the best antibacterial effect. The effect of adding cinnamon oil on the antiseptic system in the cream was studied. The results show that the amount of preservative should be added to 0.25% in the cream without adding cinnamon oil to reach better inhibition effect on bacteria and fungi. In the cream with 0.01% cinnamon essential oil added, the amount of preservative can be adjusted to bacteria and fungi by adding 0.1%. The study demonstrates that the addition of cinnamon essential oil in cosmetics can decrease the dosage of preservatives. Through skin irritation test, it is found that the L/D value of the cream with 0.01% cinnamon essential oil and 0.15% preservative is 112.26, while that of cream with 0.25% preservative is 58.53. This indicates that adding cinnamon essential oil in cosmetics can reduce the amount of preservative and the irritation of cosmetics. However, when the amount of preservatives used is 0.15%, the L/D value of the cream to which the cinnamon essential oil was added is slightly lower than that of the unadded cream, illustrating that the cinnamon essential oil itself is slight irritating.

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    Preparation of ceramide II liposome and its application in cosmetics
    WANG Li,LIU Rui-xue,LENG Qun-ying,BI Fan-xing
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (11): 742-747.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.11.008
    Abstract772)   HTML52)    PDF(pc) (957KB)(1042)       Save

    The liposome with high content (10%) of ceramide Ⅱ was prepared by the homogenization technique. A large number of Maltese Cross liquid crystal structures which were uniform in particle size were observed under a polarizing microscope. The ceramide Ⅱ liposomes were smooth, soft and water-soluble, with suitable viscosity and good stability. It could be used in cosmetics by simply stirring, which solved the problems of poor water solubility and easy crystallization and precipitation for ceramide. Human-skin test results showed that the TEWLvalue (transepidermal water loss) of the subjects could recover 85% with the cream containing 1% ceramide Ⅱ liposome (which contained 10% ceramide Ⅱ) in two hours, and the skin moisture content could be increased by 39.58% in an hour, which indicated that it had good repairing ability for skin barrier.

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    Synthesis and properties of a series of Gemini surfactants with p-phenylenediamine as a spacer
    WANG Chen,XU Hu-jun
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (5): 293-297.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.05.003
    Abstract318)   HTML25)    PDF(pc) (1043KB)(1030)       Save

    A series of novel Gemini surfactants C12, C16, and C18 with the hydrophobic groups of different lengths were synthesized with epichlorohydrin, N, N-dimethylalkyl amine and p-phenylenediamine as materials in two steps. The products were characterized by FT-IR and 1H NMR. The critical micelle concentration(cmc)and the corresponding surface tension(γcmc)of the phenylenediamine surfactants in aqueous solution were measured at 25 ℃ by surface tensiometer. The Krafft points and the emulsifying, foaming and antimicrobial properties of the aqueous solutions were also determined. The results show that the cmc of C12, C16 and C18 at 25 ℃ are 3.29×10 -3, 2.53×10 -4 and 3.14×10 -4 mol/L, respectively, and the γcmc are 28.24, 31.95 and 35.06 mN/m, respectively. The Krafft points of C12 and C16 are both below 0 ℃, and the Krafft point of C18 is 10 ℃. The foaming properties of C12 are better than those of C16 and C18. The emulsifying properties of C18 are better than those of C12 and C16. C12, C16 and C18 have shown excellent antimicrobial activities.

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    Synthetic musk in daily chemicals
    ZHOU Jing
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2016, 46 (9): 530-538.   doi: 10.13218/j.cnki.csdc.2016.09.009
    Abstract412)      PDF(pc) (873KB)(1017)       Save
    The classification and the typical compounds of synthetic musk were briefed.The research work results with respect to toxicity of synthetic musk were reviewed.Regulations for the limitations of application of synthetic musk in cosmetics executed in China and the European Union were compared.The main pretreatment and instrument detection methods for synthetic musk applied in cosmetics were described and the development trends were prospected.
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    Effects of lipids on skin condition and guidance on the development of related cosmetics
    HU Xue-qing,ZHOU Ming-yue,YANG Man-li,CHEN Feng,HE Cong-fen,JIA Yan
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (10): 717-724.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.10.011
    Abstract495)   HTML24)    PDF(pc) (854KB)(1017)       Save

    Skin lipids dramatically influence the skin condition by different mechanisms. Further research needs the use of lipidomics which has more powerful analytical ability and high-throughput manner, to identify skin lipid components into individual species. The validation of structure and function of lipids was operated to study the process that individual lipid species was involved in. The effects and mechanisms of skin lipids on skin conditions were reviewed from three aspects of functions in physical chemistry, biochemistry and microecology. Additionally, the integration of lipidomics data with other omics strategies could develop the power to study the mechanism of skin lipids influencing skin condition, which could guide the relevant research and development of cosmetics.

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    Laboratory preparation of lipoic acid esters and their application prospect in cosmetics
    SONG Jing-jiu,GUO Xiao-dan,WANG Dong,ZHU Jun
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2021, 51 (4): 356-362.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.04.014
    Abstract513)   HTML31)    PDF(pc) (1152KB)(1007)       Save

    Lipoic acid is both a drug and a multi-functional antioxidant. The cosmetics using lipoic acid as raw material have excellent performance, but they also have many problems, such as being not easy to preserve and strong irritation. The instability and poor water solubility of lipoic acid also bring inconvenience to professionals in research. The combination of lipoic acid with other functional materials as lipoic acid esters can improve the deficiency of lipoic acid and enhance the efficacy. The esterification reaction is one of the most classic reactions in the chemical world. There are many catalytic methods, and each method has unique advantages and disadvantages. However, according to statistics, only a few of them were most frequently used, and many excellent esterification methods had often been ignored. The laboratory preparation methods of lipoic acid esters were summarized from the aspects of chemical catalysis and biological enzyme catalysis. The advantages and disadvantages of each method were analyzed, and the application prospect of lipoic acid esters in cosmetics was discussed.

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    Cosmetic mechanisms of Ganoderma lucidum and itsdevelopment in cosmetics
    Qian WANG,Jia-chan ZHANG,Chang-tao WANG,Quan AN
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2019, 49 (2): 118-125.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.02.011
    Abstract796)   HTML31)    PDF(pc) (859KB)(999)       Save

    The differences of components of Ganoderma lucidum from different origins, different growth conditions, different species and parts were summarized. The molecular mechanisms and the cosmetic brands and ingredients containing Ganoderma lucidum at the current stage were outlined in this review. Then, we pointed out its development defects and technical deficiencies in the market through the above analysis. This review aims to lay a certain theoretical foundation for the application of Ganoderma lucidum in cosmetics.

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    Synthesis and properties of 2-undecyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethyl imidazolium chloride
    Gao-fei ZHANG,Wei ZHANG,Feng-shou WANG
    China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics    2020, 50 (3): 155-158.   doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.03.003
    Abstract620)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (1046KB)(994)       Save

    Undecyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline with less salt was synthesized from lauric acid and hydroxyethyl ethylenediamine. Then, 2-undecyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethyl imidazolium chloride (LSUHCI) was synthesized with ethyl chloroacetate as quaternization reagent. The structure of the intermediate, i.e. undecyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, was characterized by FT-IR and mass spectrometry. The composition of the intermediate was also quantitatively analyzed. The structure of LSUHCI was characterized by FT-IR and 1H NMR. The physicochemical properties were studied and compared with ordinary industrial product (salt content=8.1%) of 2-undecyl-N-carboxymethyl-N-hydroxyethyl imidazolium chloride (UHCI). The results showed that the NaCl content in LSUHCI was 1.3%, which was a low-salt surfactant product. The balanced surface tension of LSUHCI was 27.52 mN/m. Its critical micelle concentration (cmc), wettability and emulsifying property were better than UHCI, while foaming ability and foam stability were worse than UHCI.

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