新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用（Ⅵ）——微乳液

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.02.003

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

微乳液（ME）是水、油、表面活性剂及助表面活性剂按照一定的比例自发形成的各向同性、热力学稳定的分散体系。微乳液粒径小，能自发形成，且具有优异的增溶作用，对增溶的成分能起到良好的保护、缓释作用的同时，还能有效促进其透皮吸收，改善其生物利用度。微乳液被认为是一种理想的活性成分的保存及输送体系，在化妆品、生物医药等诸多领域具有广阔的应用空间。基于此，本文详细介绍了微乳液及其形成机理；并简述了微乳液的制备方法，总结了影响微乳液形成及性质的关键因素；概括了微乳液的性能优势，并简单介绍了几种特殊微乳液，包括无表面活性剂微乳液、离子液体微乳液以及低共熔溶剂微乳液等。在此基础上，阐述了微乳液在化妆品领域的研究及应用现状。最后，对微乳液在化妆品领域实际应用中面临的问题及未来需要开展的研究工作提出了个人观点，希望能为微乳液在化妆品领域发挥其实际应用价值提供参考，也为性能优异的功效化妆品的开发提供依据。

关键词: 微乳液, 化妆品, 增溶

Abstract:

Microemulsion （ME） is an isotropic and thermodynamic stable dispersion system formed spontaneously by water, oil, surfactant and cosurfactant in a certain proportion. The particle size of microemulsion is very small （usually 10-100 nm） and microemulsion has excellent solubilization. It can not only protect the solubilized components but also slow release the solubilized components. At the same time, microemulsion apt to promote the transdermal absorption of solubilized components and thus improve their bioavailability. Thus the microemulsion is considered as an ideal system for the preservation and transportation of active ingredients. The microemulsion has wide application in many fields, such as cosmetics, biomedicine and so on. In this paper, the microemulsion and its formation mechanism are introduced in detail firstly. Then the preparation methods of microemulsion are summarized and the key factors of affecting the formation and properties of microemulsion are stated. Furthermore, the performance advantages of microemulsion are listed and the special microemulsions, including surfactant-free microemulsion, ionic liquid microemulsion as well as low-eutectic solvent microemulsions were introduced. On this basis, the research and application of microemulsion in the field of cosmetics were reviewed. Finally, the limitations of the application of microemulsion in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed, hoping to provide reference for the practical application of microemulsion in the field of cosmetics and basis for the development of functional cosmetics with excellent performance.

Key words: microemulsion, cosmetics, solubilization

中图分类号:

TQ658

周康夫, 支奕轩, 王飞飞, 尚亚卓. 新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用（Ⅵ）——微乳液[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(2): 139-148.

Kangfu Zhou, Yixuan Zhi, Feifei Wang, Yazhuo Shang. New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （VI）Microemulsion[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(2): 139-148.

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Parameter	Microemulsion	Nanoemulsion	Emulsion
Formation	Spontaneous	Ultrasonic and high pressure homogenization	Mechanical or manual agitation
Stable	Thermodynamically	Kinetically	Kinetically
Droplet size/μm	0.01~0.10	0.05~0.50	0.5~50
Appearance	Transparent	Transparent or opaque	Opaque （cloudy）
Surface area/ （m²/g）	High （200）	Moderate （50~100）	Low （15）
Interfacial tension	Ultra low	Low	Low
System type	W/O, O/W and bicontinuous	W/O or O/W	W/O, O/W or W/O/W and O/W/O
Surfactant concentration	High	Moderate	Low
Co-surfactant type	Short chain alcohol	Long-chain alcohol	None