化妆品晒后修护功效评价方法研究进展

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.03.012

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

人类的日常生活无法避免与紫外线的接触，紫外线照射带来的皮肤问题，如晒黑、晒红、老化等，成为人们常见的困扰，化妆品层面的晒后修护功效也成为人们的日常需求。《化妆品分类规则和分类目录》对“修护”的释义是有助于维护施用部位保持正常状态。根据《化妆品功效宣称评价规范》要求，具有祛斑美白、防晒、防脱发、祛痘、滋养和修护功效的化妆品，应当通过人体功效评价试验方式进行功效宣称评价。本研究简述了紫外线对皮肤的作用机理及晒后表现；晒后修护产品的作用机制；修护的定义及修护化妆品功效宣称的法规要求；化妆品晒后修护功效的人体功效评价试验及辅助评价的体外试验方法和研究进展，并对化妆品晒后修护功效评价体系的建立进行展望。

关键词: 化妆品, 晒后修护, 功效评价

Abstract:

Human beings cannot avoid contact with UV rays in their daily lives, and the skin problems caused by UV radiation have become a common problem for people, which leads to a daily demand of the cosmetics claimed after-sun repair effect. The Cosmetics Efficacy Claim Evaluation Code requires that cosmetics with repair efficacy should be evaluated by the means of human efficacy evaluation tests for efficacy claims. In order to improve the research on the evaluation methods of cosmetic after-sun repair efficacy, and to meet the market demand for after-sun repair products from consumers, we provide research on the efficacy evaluation methods of after-sun repair cosmetics, and establish the basis for the establishment of an efficacy evaluation system for after-sun repair cosmetics. It briefly discusses the action mechanism of ultraviolet light on skin and after-sun performance, the action mechanism of after-sun repair products, the definition of repair efficacy and the regulatory requirements for the efficacy claims of repair cosmetics, the methods and research progress of clinical trials and in vitro tests on the efficacy of after-sun repair cosmetics （among which in vitro tests are divided into cell tests and animal tests）, and provides an outlook on the establishment of an evaluation system for the efficacy of after-sun repair cosmetics.

Key words: cosmetic, post-sun repair, efficacy evaluation

中图分类号:

TQ658

许梦然, 赵华. 化妆品晒后修护功效评价方法研究进展[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(3): 329-336.

Mengran Xu, Hua Zhao. Research progress on the evaluation methods of cosmetic after-sun repair efficacy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(3): 329-336.

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