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    2024年, 第54卷, 第5期 刊出日期:2024-05-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    基于密度泛函理论研究聚醚类破乳剂的构效关系
    Studies on the structure-function relationship of polyether-type demulsifiers based on density functional theory
    何海峰, 孙立梅, 杨风斌, 刘凌枫, 王刚, 于滨, 吴达
    2024 (5):  499-506.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.001
    摘要 ( 101 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(2691KB) ( 297 )  

    油田采出液处理工艺中化学破乳剂的使用能够大大提升工作效率并且节约成本,其中聚醚类破乳剂的应用最为广泛,研究聚醚类破乳剂的构效关系对于新型破乳剂的研发及应用至关重要。本文首先对几种聚醚类破乳剂和反相破乳剂的破乳效果进行了评价和比较,然后根据沥青质分子的结构特点及现有聚醚类破乳剂和反相破乳剂的类型,选取了相应的模型分子,通过密度泛函理论(DFT)中B3LYP/6-31G基组得到其最优分子几何构型和静电势分布图,并利用泛函M062X/6-31G基组计算了聚醚类破乳剂模型分子分别与沥青质模型分子和水分子之间的相互作用能。结合聚醚类破乳剂和反相破乳剂的破乳性能评价结果,进而分析了聚醚类破乳剂的构效关系。结果表明,由理论化学计算结果所推测的破乳剂的破乳性能差异与其实际破乳效果相一致:具有支状结构、聚合度较高的聚醚类破乳剂的效果优于线型结构、聚合度较低的聚醚类破乳剂;酚醛树脂聚醚的破乳效果优于酚胺树脂聚醚,而反相破乳剂中则是多元醇聚醚类反相破乳剂的效果较优。该工作的开展表明采用密度泛函理论进行破乳剂的构效关系研究是可行的,能够为未来新型破乳剂的制备及选用奠定重要的理论基础和提供参考依据。

    The use of chemical demulsifiers in the treatment process of crude oil dehydration can greatly improve work efficiency and save costs. Among them, polyether demulsifiers are the most widely used, and studies on their structure-function relationship are crucial for the development and application of new demulsifiers. In this work, the demulsification effects of several polyether demulsifiers and reverse demulsifiers were evaluated and compared. Then corresponding model molecules were selected according to the structural characteristics of asphaltene molecules and the categories of polyether demulsifiers and reverse demulsifiers. Their optimal molecular geometries and electrostatic potential distribution diagrams were obtained through the B3LYP/6-31G basis set in density functional theory (DFT). The interaction energy between a polyether demulsifier model molecule and an asphaltene model molecule, and the interaction energy between a polyether demulsifier model molecule and a water molecule, were both calculated using the functional M062X/6-31G basis set for several kinds of polyether demulsifiers. Combined with the evaluation results of demulsification performance of polyether demulsifiers and reverse demulsifiers, their structure-function relationships were analyzed. It shows that the difference in the demulsification performance of demulsifiers deduced from theoretical chemical calculation is consistent with their demulsification effects experimentally measured. Those polyether demulsifiers with branched structure and higher polymerization degree have better demulsification effects than those with linear structure and lower polymerization degree. In addition, polyether-grafted phenolic resin has better demulsification effect than polyether-grafted phenol-amine resin. Among the inverse demulsifiers investigated, polyol polyether inverse demulsifier has the best demulsification effect. Therefore, it is feasible to study the structure-function relationship of demulsifiers with DFT method, which can provide theoretical basis and reference for the preparation and selection of new demulsifiers in future.

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    一种含偶氮苯的二肽表面活性剂的合成及自组装行为
    Synthesis and self-assembly of an azobenzene-containing dipeptide surfactant
    赵淋淋, 焦宇恬, 赵莉, 王策, 徐宝财
    2024 (5):  507-513.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.002
    摘要 ( 66 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1904KB) ( 49 )  

    合成了尾端含有偶氮苯基团的双甘肽衍生表面活性剂(Azo-C6-GG)。在各种弱相互作用的驱动下,Azo-C6-GG自组装形成囊泡结构。紫外光照诱导反式偶氮苯转变为顺式结构,但自组装结构依然为囊泡。Azo-C6-GG和α-环糊精(α-CD)可以形成超两亲分子(Azo-C6-GG@α-CD)。偶氮苯基团进入环糊精的空腔,但同时发现环糊精在烷基链和偶氮苯之间发生滑动。该超两亲分子自组装形成囊泡结构;紫外光照后,超两亲分子没有解体,但环糊精移动到烷基链部分。环糊精的结合部位对聚集结构没有造成明显的影响,均为囊泡结构。

    A glycylglycine-derived surfactant containing an azobenzene moiety as terminal (Azo-C6-GG) was synthesized. Azo-C6-GG self-assembled into vesicles driven by several non-covalent interactions. The trans-azobenzene transformed to cis-azobenzene after the irradiation of UV light, and vesicles were still formed in this cis-Azo-C6-GG system. A supra-amphiphile (Azo-C6-GG@α-CD) was formed after the addition of α-cyclodextrin (α-CD), which formed vesicles in aqueous solution. The azobenzene group was embedded into the cavity of α-CD, and meanwhile, the CD ring shuttled between the alkyl chain and the azobenzene group. After the UV light irradiation, the alkyl chain was embedded into the cavity of α-CD. The Azo-C6-GG@α-CD complexes were found to self-assemble into vesicles both before and after the UV light irradiation.

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    开发与应用
    哌嗪型双核酸性离子液体催化合成苯甲酸甲酯
    Study on the synthesis of methyl benzoate from benzoic acid catalyzed by dual-core piperazine-based ionic liquids
    李祥, 尹慧, 旷宇阳, 刘宁
    2024 (5):  514-519.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.003
    摘要 ( 65 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF(1588KB) ( 264 )  

    以1, 4-二甲基哌嗪为原料,通过与1, 3-丙磺酸内酯加成反应合成中间体,再进一步分别与对甲苯磺酸、浓硫酸(H2SO4)、甲烷磺酸等质子酸发生离子交换等反应,最终合成一系列磺酸功能化哌嗪类离子液体,其中1, 4-双[N-甲基-N-(3-磺丙基)]哌嗪对甲苯磺酸盐([BMSP][PSA])在苯甲酸-甲醇酯化反应中显示出相对较优的催化活性,并通过FT-IR,1H-NMR和TGA-DTG对其的结构与性能进行表征,确定了所合成的离子液体结构,且其具有较好的耐热性。结果表明:在醇酸摩尔比为16∶1、反应温度为70 ℃、反应时间为3 h、[BMSP][PSA]用量为3 mmol的条件下,苯甲酸转化率达到最大值97.6%,且在重复使用催化剂5次后,苯甲酸转化率仍然可达93.9%,显示了优异的催化活性,是一种可应用于工业化生产苯甲酸甲酯的绿色催化剂。

    Benzoates are important intermediates for preparing perfume essence and artificial essential oils. For conventional esterification of benzoic acid with methanol, protonic acids such as HCl, H2SO4, have been used, which is harmful to equipment and shows low product yield. Using ionic liquids as solvents or catalysts can make the reaction conditions stable, recyclable, and environment-friendly, and lead to high product yield. In this work, a series of sulfonic-acid-functionalized dual-core piperazine-based ionic liquids, such as 1, 4-bis [N-methyl-N-(3-sulfopropyl)]piperazine bis(p-toluenesulfonate) ([BMSP][PSA]), 1, 4-bis [N-methyl-N-(3-sulfopropyl)] piperazine dimethanesulfonate ([BMSP][MSA]), and 1, 4-bis [N-methyl-N-(3-sulfopropyl)] piperazine bis(hydrosulfate) ([BMSP][SA]), were synthesized by a two-step process. The molecular structure of[BMSP][PSA] was characterized by FT-IR, 1H NMR and TGA-DTG. It exhibited good thermal stability. The results showed that the three sulfonic-acid-functionalized dual-core piperazine-based ionic liquids had excellent catalytic activity, among which the synthesized [BMSP][PSA] exhibited the best catalytic activity. The conversion of benzoic acid reached 97.6% under the conditions of alcohol-acid ratio of 16∶1, reaction temperature of 70 ℃, reaction time of 3 h, and catalyst dosage of 3 mmol. The conversion for esterification still reached 93.9% after 4 cycles with the catalyst, which showed excellent catalytic activity. Therefore, it was a good candidate of green catalyst for industrial production.

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    4-丁基间苯二酚微乳凝胶制备及美白抗氧化研究
    Preparation of 4-butylresorcinol-loaded cinnamon oil microemulsion-gel and its whitening and antioxidative effects
    魏楚原, 张晓萍, 潘敬, 彭佩, 张雅鹃, 穆朝峰
    2024 (5):  520-526.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.004
    摘要 ( 97 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF(1453KB) ( 71 )  

    通过配方筛选优化制备含有4-丁基间苯二酚的肉桂油微乳凝胶,考察其制剂学性质,并对其进行美白及抗氧化性能的评价。含有4-丁基间苯二酚的肉桂油微乳外观澄清透明,粒径15.68 nm、多分散系数(PDI)0.185。以卡波姆和白芨多糖作为凝胶基质制备微乳凝胶,该微乳凝胶的pH值为6.0,黏度为74.8 Pa·s,符合外用凝胶剂质量要求。通过酪氨酸酶抑制率实验测定4-丁基间苯二酚肉桂油微乳凝胶的美白功效,该微乳凝胶的酪氨酸酶抑制率随着质量浓度增加而逐渐增强,且微乳凝胶的酪氨酸酶抑制率均高于同等质量浓度下的游离4-丁基间苯二酚和熊果苷,表明4-丁基间苯二酚肉桂油微乳凝胶具有良好的美白功效。通过4-丁基间苯二酚肉桂油微乳凝胶对过氧化氢(H2O2)诱导B16-F10细胞氧化损伤保护作用的测定,评价其抗氧化性能,结果表明4-丁基间苯二酚肉桂油微乳凝胶在0.1 μg/mL质量浓度下无细胞毒性,通过抑制ROS产生抑制H2O2引起的B16-F10细胞损伤。

    The 4-butylresorcinol-containing cinnamon oil microemulsion-gel was prepared and its pharmaceutical properties were investigated. Its whitening and antioxidant properties were evaluated. Cinnamon oil microemulsion containing 4-butylresorcinol is clear and transparent in appearance. Its particle size is 15.68 nm and the coefficient of dispersity (PDI) is 0.185. The microemulsion-gel is prepared by using carbopol and Bletilla striata (T.) Reichb. F. polysaccharides as the gel matrix with the pH value at 6.0 and the viscosity at 74.8 Pa·s. In this study, the whitening effect of 4-butylresorcinol-containing cinnamon oil microemulsion-gel was determined by measuring the tyrosinase inhibition. It is shown that the tyrosinase inhibition of 4-butylresorcinol-loaded cinnamon oil microemulsion-gel gradually enhances with its concentration increasing. The tyrosinase inhibition activity of microemulsion-gels is higher than that of the free 4-butylresorcinol and arbutin at the same concentration. The antioxidant effect of 4-butylresorcinol-loaded cinnamon oil microemulsion-gel on hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) -induced oxidative damage was tested in B16-F10 cells. The results show that microemulsion-gel has excellent antioxidant effect by reducing ROS production.

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    具有表面活性的聚合物在洗涤剂中的应用研究
    Study on the application of surface active polymers in detergents
    刘庆刚, 严羽欢, 潘鹤潮, 陈雪
    2024 (5):  527-534.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.005
    摘要 ( 74 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF(1553KB) ( 62 )  

    考察了一种丙烯酸-聚醚改性丙烯酸酯共聚物HS-C的结构特征、聚合物性能(螯合性、抗沉积性)以及表面活性(表面张力、临界胶束浓度、润湿性、乳化性、起泡性和去污力)。并分别对比了HS-C与常用螯合剂、抗再沉积剂以及表面活性剂在不同方面的性能。结果表明,HS-C的螯合值为554.70 mg/g,其螯合性能优于EDTA·4Na及GLDA·4Na,但略低于未改性的丙烯酸盐聚合物PM;其抗炭黑沉积性能与市售抗再沉积剂SRP接近,而PM无抗炭黑沉积作用。在表面活性方面,HS-C的临界胶束浓度和平衡表面张力分别为0.005%和41.85 mN/m;其润湿性能和泡沫性能比LAS、AEO-9、AES相对差,但乳化能力比低分子表面活性剂更好;HS-C具有比LAS更加优越的去污性能,与LAS、AEO-9、AES复配时存在协同增效去污的作用。

    An acrylic copolymer modified with surface active groups (HS-C) was studied. Its structural characteristics, polymer properties (chelation and anti-deposition) and surface activity (surface tension, critical micelle concentration, wettability, emulsification, foaming and detergency) were investigated. The performance of HS-C was compared with that of commonly used chelating agents, anti-redeposition agents and surfactants, respectively. The results of FT-IR showed that the main structure of HS-C was similar to that of unmodified sodium polyacrylate (PM), but with more unsaturated bonds and alcohol and/or ether groups. The experimental results showed that the chelation value of HS-C was 554.70 mg/g, which was higher than that of EDTA·4Na and GLDA·4Na but slightly lower than that of PM. Its anti-deposition performance to carbon black was close to that of commercially available anti-redeposition agent SRP, whereas PM had no anti-deposition effect to carbon black. The critical micelle concentration and equilibrium surface tension of HS-C were 0.005% and 41.85 mN/m, respectively. Its wetting and foaming properties were relatively poorer than those of LAS, AEO-9 and AES, but its emulsifying ability was better than that of low-molecular-weight surfactants. HS-C had detergency superior to LAS, and there was synergistic effect when combined with LAS, AEO-9 and AES.

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    DPK法对离子导入技术促进护肤用活性成分在皮肤的吸收过程研究
    Using the Dermal-pharmacokinetics method to study the absorption process of skin care active ingredients by iontophoresis
    崔俭杰, 蔡安瑞, 赵祎玮
    2024 (5):  535-541.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.006
    摘要 ( 54 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1395KB) ( 46 )  

    化妆品需要足量的有效成分到达并保持在皮肤和浅表组织中发挥相应的功效。因此研究化妆品中有效成分在皮肤的吸收过程,对化妆品的研发具有重要的意义。对于物理促渗透技术促渗透效果例如离子导入技术的评价,采用Franz扩散池法、平行人工膜透性试验(PAMPA)法等均很难实现。皮肤药代动力学(DPK)评价试验药物与参比药物的皮肤渗透动力学等效性,也可以用于评价化妆品的渗透动力学的差异。选择30名志愿者在随机标记的区域分别使用4个面膜产品,包括完整电回路并含有促渗剂的面膜、完整电回路的面膜、破坏电回路并含有促渗剂的面膜、破坏电回路的面膜。30 min后,取掉面膜,用纸巾擦拭。使用D100胶带和压力棒撕脱21次。第1次粘贴的胶带丢弃,第2~21次放入离心管中冷冻保存。使用高效液相色谱-质谱联用法(HPLC-MS)进行测定。测试结果表明,带完整电回路并含有促渗剂的面膜活性物在角质层中的浓度最高,破坏电回路的面膜最差,带完整电回路和破坏电回路并含有促渗剂的面膜居中。DPK试验可以用于评价化妆品物理促渗透技术例如离子导入技术的渗透动力学效果。

    Cosmetics require sufficient amounts of active ingredients to reach and maintain in the skin and superficial tissues to perform their corresponding functions. Therefore, it is important to study the absorption process of the active ingredients of cosmetics in the skin. It is difficult to evaluate the effect of physically facilitated transdermal technology such as iontophoresis by using Franz diffusion cell method and Parallel Artificial Membrane Permeability Assay (PAMPA) method. Dermato-pharmacokinetic (DPK) method can be not only used to evaluate the bioequivalence of bioavailability of the drug, but also can be used to evaluate difference of bioavailability of the active substance in cosmetics. Four mask products were used on the randomly marked areas of thirty volunteers respectively, including: mask 1 (complete circuit & transdermal enhancer), mask 2 (complete circuit), mask 3 (damage circuit & transdermal enhancer) and mask 4 (damage circuit). After 30 minutes, removed the mask and wiped the test site with a dry paper towel. Used D100 tape and pressure stick to tear off 21 times. The tape pasted for the 1st time was discarded, and the tape of 2nd to 21st time was frozen in the centrifuge tube. Quantitative tests of every five tapes were performed by a high-performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometer (HPLC-MS). The test results shown that the concentration of active ingredient in the stratum corneum was highest by use the mask with complete circuit & transdermal enhancer, the worst is the mask with damage circuit, and the middle is the masks with complete circuit or damage circuit & transdermal enhancer. DPK test can be used to evaluate the physically facilitated transdermal technology for cosmetics.

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    喹诺酮和四环素两类抗生素对蛋白核小球藻的生理生化响应
    Physiological and biochemical responses of quinolone and tetracycline antibiotics to Chlorella pyrenoidosa
    杜隆达, 覃礼堂, 莫凌云, 梁延鹏, 宋晓红, 曾鸿鹄
    2024 (5):  542-549.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.007
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    以3种常见的喹诺酮类抗生素(氧氟沙星(OFX)、恩诺沙星(ENR)、环丙沙星(CIP))和2种四环素类抗生素(四环素(TC)和土霉素(OTC))为目标污染物,研究其在96 h暴露时间下的藻细胞生长抑制率及对叶绿素、超氧化物歧化酶(SOD)、过氧化氢酶(CAT)、总蛋白(TP)和微量丙二醛(MDA)的生理生化响应。结果表明,5种抗生素的生长抑制与叶绿素a(Chl a)均呈正相关关系;除环丙沙星外,其余抗生素暴露下的MDA含量随浓度的升高而升高;2种四环素的暴露会增强SOD的活性,而喹诺酮类抗生素暴露后会降低SOD的活性。环丙沙星对蛋白核小球藻的生长出现了低浓度促进和高浓度抑制现象,其中环丙沙星的最大促进效应为17.39%,归因于环丙沙星的暴露加速了光合速率并且增强了藻细胞CAT酶的活性。5种抗生素的暴露对TP的生成都有一定的促进作用。研究结果为这5种抗生素对水生生态系统的潜在风险评估提供科学依据和理论基础。

    Quinolones and tetracyclines are prevalent antibiotics in aquatic environment, posing potential ecological risks to the aquatic environment. However, the biochemical harm of these antibiotics to Chlorella pyrenoidosa has not been studied, and studies on the mechanism of their toxic effects in green algae are relatively few. In this work, three common quinolone antibiotics (ofloxacin (OFX), enrofloxacin (ENR) and ciprofloxacin (CIP)) and two tetracycline antibiotics (tetracycline (TC) and oxytetracycline (OTC)) were used as target contaminants. Their inhibition rates on algal cell growth and their physiological and biochemical responses to chlorophyll, superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), total protein (TP) and trace malondialdehyde (MDA) at 96 h exposure were studied. The results showed that, the effects of growth inhibition for these five antibiotics were all positively correlated with Chl a; the MDA content was increased with increasing concentrations under antibiotic exposure except for CIP; the exposure to two tetracyclines enhanced SOD activity, while the exposure to quinolone antibiotics reduced SOD activity. CIP promoted the growth of Chlorella pyrenoidosa at low concentrations but inhibited it at high concentrations. The maximum promotion was 17.39%, which was ascribed to the accelerated photosynthetic rate and the enhanced CAT activity in algal cells when exposed to CIP. All these five antibiotics showed some promotion effect on TP. This work could provide reference for assessment of the potential risks of these five antibiotics on aquatic ecosystems.

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    红鳘鱼胶胶原蛋白对D-半乳糖致衰老小鼠皮肤的抗衰老作用研究
    Study on the anti-aging effect of red slate fish gelatin collagen in mice skin caused by D-galactose
    钟碧銮, 廖静如, 黄泽敏, 姚若然, 杜冰, 张宇
    2024 (5):  550-557.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.008
    摘要 ( 61 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF(2915KB) ( 63 )  

    以红鳘鱼胶为原料,酸酶法提取胶原蛋白,通过十二烷基硫酸钠-聚丙烯酰胺凝胶电泳(SDS-PAGE)、氨基酸组成分析等方法进行理化性质分析,并以D-半乳糖建立衰老小鼠模型,探究其对小鼠皮肤含水量、羟脯氨酸含量、皮肤病理形态和抗氧化活性的影响。结果表明,胶原蛋白由2条α链与1条β链组成,为典型的Ⅰ型胶原蛋白,以甘氨酸、丙氨酸、谷氨酸、脯氨酸为特征氨基酸,分别占总氨基酸含量13.890%,8.601%,7.650%和7.124%,且不含色氨酸;动物实验结果表明,经D-半乳糖造模后,MN组小鼠皮肤粗糙、松弛,皱纹数量增多,相较于CN组皮肤水分含量降低了13.52%,羟脯氨酸含量降低了26.20%,抗氧化能力降低,小鼠皮肤真皮层变薄,胶原纤维、弹性纤维含量降低,部分明显断开;红鳘鱼胶胶原蛋白干预后,能够显著改善由于D-半乳糖造成的小鼠背部皮肤水分流失,增强小鼠皮肤组织氧化应激抵抗力,胶原蛋白组皮肤结构基本恢复,皮肤胶原纤维和弹力纤维含量升高,Ⅰ/Ⅲ型胶原蛋白比例升高了9.79%。综上分析,通过红鳘鱼胶制备的胶原蛋白可延缓D-半乳糖引起的皮肤衰老,可为胶原蛋白在化妆品领域的高值化利用提供依据。

    Red slate fish gelatin was used as the raw material, and collagen was extracted by acid enzyme method. Physicochemical properties were analysed by sodium dodecyl sulphate-polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE) and amino acid composition analysis. A senescent mice model was established with D-galactose to investigate its effects on the water content, hydroxyproline content, skin pathological morphology, and antioxidant activity of the mice. The results show that the collagen consists of two α-chains and one β-chain, which is a typical type Ⅰ collagen. Collagen contains characteristic amino acids such as glycine, alanine, glutamic acid and proline, which account for 13.890%, 8.601%, 7.650% and 7.124% of the total amino acid content, respectively, and does not contain tryptophan. After being modeled by D-galactose, the results of moisturising and skin-care experiments show that the model group compared with the control group, the skin of mice is rough and loose, the number of wrinkles and antioxidant capacity decrease, the moisture content of the skin and the content of hydroxyproline decrease by 13.52% and 26.2%, respectively, and the content of collagen fibres and elastin fibres reduced, some of which are obviously disconnected. After the intervention of red slate fish gelatin collagen, it can significantly improve the water loss of mouse back skin caused by D-galactose stimulation, enhance the resistance to oxidative stress of mouse skin tissues, and basically restore the skin structure of the collagen group, with the content of collagen fibres and elastic fibres of the skin elevated, and the proportion of type Ⅰ/Ⅲ collagen elevated by 9.79%. In conclusion, collagen prepared from red slate fish gelatin can delay the skin aging caused by D-galactose, which can provide a basis for the high value utilisation of collagen in the field of cosmetics.

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    基于热糖化法体外生化抗糖化评价体系的优化与应用
    Optimization and application of anti-glycation (in vitro) evaluation method based on the thermal glycation method
    宋雨芯, 许琳琳, 佟瑶, 董坤, 何聪芬
    2024 (5):  558-565.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.009
    摘要 ( 62 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(1295KB) ( 40 )  

    面对日益增长的抗糖化原料筛选需求,现有的体外生化抗糖化评价体系、抗糖化细胞模型和人体功效评价方法因周期长或成本高等问题,不适用于原料的大规模初筛。实验周期短、成本低、操作简便、重复性好用于抗糖化原料初步筛选的评价方法亟待确立。基于热糖化法对体外生化抗糖化评价体系进行了优化,通过检测阿魏酸、原花青素、芦丁、L-抗坏血酸等8种原料进行了抑制荧光性AGEs (Advanced glycation end products)、降解荧光性AGEs原料筛选适用性探究。并将筛选结果与已发表研究、检测AGEs降解能力的AGEs-胶原蛋白交联破坏能力实验结果进行对比,对体系筛选能力、优势和局限性进行了讨论分析。确立了优化后的反应体系为:20 mg/mL牛血清白蛋白、1 mol/L葡萄糖、0.1 mol/L PBS缓冲液组成的反应体系下,50 ℃、孵育48 h后,在λex/λem=370/452 nm波长下进行荧光强度的检测。在抑制/降解荧光性AGEs的测试中,测试2%的阿魏酸、原花青素、芦丁溶液抑制率分别达到56%,86%,95%,具有较好的抗糖化效果,阿魏酸、芦丁表现出潜在降解AGEs的趋势。优化后的体系,虽然在降解荧光性AGEs的应用上,相较于AGEs-胶原蛋白交联破坏能力测试的方法,在对照体系设置及实验结果上存在一定的局限性。但在筛选抑制荧光性AGEs的原料方面,结果稳定性、真实性佳,极大缩短了试验周期,为抗糖化功效添加剂的筛选和相应产品的开发提供了快速、稳定、节约经济成本的技术平台。

    In response to the increasing demand for anti-glycation ingredient screening, existing biochemical anti-glycation evaluation systems(in vitro), anti-glycation cell models and human efficacy evaluation methods have extended lead times and high costs. They are not suitable for large-scale primary screening of ingredients. An in vitro efficacy evaluation model with short experimental lead time, low cost, simple operation, and good reproducibility for preliminary screening of anti-glycation ingredients is urgently needed. In this study, we optimized the in vitro biochemical anti-glycation evaluation system based on the thermal glycation method and investigated the suitability of the screening of AGEs (advanced glycation end products) and degraded fluorescent AGEs by testing eight ingredients, including ferulic acid, procyanidins, rutin and L-ascorbic acid. The screening results were compared with the results of the AGEs-collagen cross-linkage disruption experiments that have been published to test the degradation ability of AGEs, and the screening ability, advantages and limitations of the system were discussed and analyzed. We confirm that the better conditions in building the model are: a reaction system consisting of 20 mg/mL BSA, 1 mol/L glucose, and 0.1 mol/L PBS buffer, a reaction temperature of 50 ℃, an incubation time of 48 h, and a detection wavelength of λex/λem=370/452 nm. In the test of inhibition/degradation of fluorescent AGEs, ferulic acid, procyanidin and rutin solutions at the tested content of 2% achieve 56%, 86% and 95% inhibition, respectively, with good anti-glycation effect, and ferulic acid and rutin show a trend of potential degradation of AGEs. The optimized system, though, has some limitations in the application of degrading fluorescent AGEs, compared with the method of AGEs-collagen cross-link disruption ability test, in terms of control system setting and experimental results. However, in the screening of ingredients for the inhibition of fluorescent AGEs, the stability and authenticity of the results are good, and the test cycle is significantly shortened, which provides a rapid, stable and economic cost-saving technical platform for the screening of anti-glycation efficacy additives and the development of related products.

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    药用层孔菌发酵液控油及收缩毛孔机理及功效研究
    Study on the mechanism and efficacy of controlling oil and shrinking pores in fermentation broth of Fomes officinalis
    宋阳, 吕永博, 任晗堃, 彭娇龙
    2024 (5):  566-573.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.010
    摘要 ( 109 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF(2213KB) ( 85 )  

    将药用层孔菌和乳酸菌进行双向发酵得到药用层孔菌发酵液,检测药用层孔菌发酵液和药用层孔菌水提液的活性成分含量,从分子、细胞、动物和人体等方面研究药用层孔菌发酵液在控油和收缩毛孔等方面的功效作用,结果表明,药用层孔菌发酵液具有更高的活性成分含量、可以减少ABTS自由基的生成、抑制炎症因子TNF-α和IL-6的表达、调控5α还原酶活性、减少皮肤油脂分泌、促进Ⅰ型胶原蛋白(COL-Ⅰ)的表达、抑制金属蛋白酶-1(MMP-1)表达、具有收缩毛孔的趋势,具备成为具有控油和收缩毛孔功效的化妆品原料的潜力。

    The fermentation broth of Fomes officinalis was obtained by two-way fermentation of Fomes officinalis and Lactococcus lactis, and the contents of active components in the fermentation broth and aqueous extract were detected. The effects of Fomes officinalis fermentation broth on oil control and pore contraction were studied from the aspects of molecule, cell, animal and human body. The fermentation of Fomes officinalis has higher content of active components, can reduce the production of ABTS free radicals, inhibit the expression of inflammatory factors TNF-α and IL-6, regulate the activity of 5α reductase, reduce skin oil secretion, promote the expression of type Ⅰ collagen (COL-Ⅰ), inhibit the expression of metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), have the tendency of shrinking pores. It has the potential to become a cosmetic raw material with the effect of oil control and pore refining.

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    化妆品用钛白粉的溶胶凝胶合成及其性能研究
    Sol-gel synthesis and properties of titanium dioxide for cosmetics
    马虹, 王艳
    2024 (5):  574-580.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.011
    摘要 ( 66 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(2440KB) ( 51 )  

    采用溶胶凝胶法合成了钛白粉、钛酸锶和钛酸钡3种防晒剂。晶体结构表征表明钛白粉为四方晶系的金红石相的TiO2,空间群为P42/mnm(136);钛酸锶为立方晶系,空间群为Pm-3m(221);钛酸钡为四方晶系,空间群为P4/mmm(123)。官能团信息表征发现,钛白粉和钛酸钡为纯相,而钛酸锶中含有少量C-O官能团。SEM和TEM观察发现,钛白粉、钛酸锶和钛酸钡的颗粒均近似呈球形,平均颗粒尺寸分别为30,40和60 nm。光学性质表征表明,3种防晒剂均具有高的紫外光吸收系数,且钛白粉的光学吸收系数可拓展到400 nm范围。经计算可知,钛白粉、钛酸锶和钛酸钡的光学带隙值分别为3.03,3.27和3.25 eV。钛白粉具有宽的紫外光吸收能力且颗粒分布均匀,颜色为白色,可潜在应用于各种香料、防晒霜、皂片、白色香皂和牙膏中。

    Three kinds of sunscreen agents, titanium dioxide, strontium titanate and barium titanate were synthesized by sol-gel method. Crystal structure characterization shows that titanium dioxide is tetragonal rutile phase TiO2, with space group P42/mnm (136).Strontium titanate is cubic crystal system with space group Pm-3m (221). Barium titanate is tetragonal with space group P4/mmm (123). It is found that titanium dioxide and barium titanate are pure phases, while strontium titanate contains a small amount of C-O functional groups. SEM and TEM results show that the particles of titanium dioxide, strontium titanate and barium titanate are approximately spherical, and the average particle size is 30, 40 and 60 nm, respectively. The optical properties show that titanium dioxide, strontium titanate and barium titanate have high UV absorption coefficients, and the optical absorption coefficient of titanium dioxide can be extended to 400 nm. The calculated optical bandgap values of titanium dioxide, strontium titanate and barium titanate are 3.03, 3.27 and 3.25 eV, respectively. The results show that titanium dioxide has a wide UV absorption capacity and uniform particle distribution, with a white color, which can be potentially used in various spices, sunscreen, saponin, white soap and toothpaste.

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    专论与综述
    表面活性剂在MOFs材料制备中的应用
    Application of surfactants in the preparation of MOFs
    杨许召, 袁康康, 吴龙焕, 牛彩奇, 张盈盈, 李亚坤, 王军
    2024 (5):  581-587.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.012
    摘要 ( 46 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(3846KB) ( 57 )  

    金属有机骨架材料(Metal-Organic Frameworks,MOFs)具有比表面积大、孔径可调、性能可控等突出优点,在气体存储、吸附与分离、催化反应、传感等领域中有广泛的应用前景。表面活性剂在MOFs材料制备中,可以控制晶体的尺寸、孔径和几何形状,还可以限制纳米晶体的纵向生长,促进2D结构的形成,且制备出的MOFs材料结构稳定、不易坍塌。综述了常规表面活性剂和双子表面活性剂、离子液体表面活性剂等特种表面活性剂在MOFs材料制备中的应用,如用作模板剂、封端剂等。对表面活性剂在实现多级孔MOFs形貌和孔隙率的精确控制、特种表面活性剂及应用等进行了展望,为表面活性剂在MOFs材料制备中的应用指明了方向,也为MOFs材料的制备提供了更加丰富的路径。

    Metal-Organic Frameworks (MOFs) have outstanding advantages such as large specific surface area, adjustable pore size and controllable properties. MOFs have a wide range of applications in gas storage, adsorption and separation, catalytic reactions, sensing, etc. Surfactants can be employed in the preparation of MOFs to control the size, pore size and geometry of the crystals. Surfactants can also limit the longitudinal growth of the nanocrystals and promote the formation of 2D structures. Moreover, the MOFs thus prepared have a stable structure and are not prone to collapse. In this review, the applications of conventional surfactants and special surfactants such as Gemini surfactants and ionic liquid surfactants in the preparation of MOFs as templating agents and capping agents were reviewed. The roles of surfactants in precise control of the morphology and porosity of hierarchically porous MOFs were prospected, as well as those special surfactants and their applications. This review pointed out the direction for application of surfactants in preparation of MOFs and provide more pathways for preparation of MOFs.

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    化妆品纳米原料物料属性及其功效相关性
    Correlation of cosmetic nanomaterials attributes and their efficacy
    陈琼, 张铮, 苏哲, 王钢力, 涂家生, 孙春萌
    2024 (5):  588-595.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.013
    摘要 ( 78 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF(1198KB) ( 81 )  

    随着纳米技术的发展,化妆品产业中纳米原料的应用也愈加广泛。文章基于欧盟法规中收录的化妆品纳米原料,结合欧盟消费者安全委员会(SCCS)的评估工作,重点总结了三联苯基三嗪、氧化锌、炭黑、二氧化钛、亚甲基双-苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚等5种化妆品纳米原料的基本信息,梳理了其主要理化性质的一般表征方法及限度要求。进一步调研与化妆品纳米原料具有显著相关性的理化性质,以期明确影响化妆品纳米原料质量的关键物料属性,为相关产品的质量控制提供有益帮助。

    With the growth of nanotechnology, using nanomaterials in the cosmetics industry is becoming more common. Based on the cosmetic nanomaterials included in European Union regulations and the evaluation work of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS), this paper summarizes the essential information of five cosmetic nanomaterials, including 1, 3, 5-Triazine, 2, 4, 6-tris[1, 1’-biphenyl]-4-yl-, zinc oxide, carbon black, titanium dioxide, and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol. It compares the general characterization methods and limit requirements of their primary physicochemical properties. To identify the critical material characteristics that affect the quality of cosmetic nanomaterials and to offer helpful assistance for quality control of the related products, additional investigation of the physicochemical properties that have significant relevance to cosmetic nanomaterials is conducted.

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    国际视野下社会组织参与化妆品治理的模式比较研究
    Comparative study on the models of social organizations participating in cosmetics governance from an international perspective
    黄浩婷, 陈正东, 陈子婷, 杨雨曼, 谢志洁, 刘佐仁
    2024 (5):  596-604.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.014
    摘要 ( 59 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(988KB) ( 30 )  

    为全面了解国际主要化妆品产业发达经济体社会组织参与化妆品治理的模式,并形成可供借鉴的经验、方法,为我国社会组织充分发挥作用提供建议。基于嵌入自主性理论,从美国、欧盟、日本、中国社会组织参与化妆品治理的治理理念、治理结构及治理方式出发,建构社会组织参与化妆品治理的模式的分析框架,对其“自主性-嵌入性”展开对比分析,得出了以美国为代表的强自主-强嵌入的协同共治型、以欧盟为代表的强自主-弱嵌入的协会自治型、以日本为代表的中自主-中嵌入的联合治理型及以中国为代表的弱自主-强嵌入的行政主导型等四种模式。同时结合中国实际,建议在治理理念上重视引领行业可持续发展,在治理结构上坚定政府引领社会组织发展,在治理方式上注重发挥社会组织作用等创新中国社会组织参与化妆品治理。

    The study aims to comprehensively understand the models of social organizations in developed economies of the international cosmetics industry participating in cosmetics governance, to form experiences and methods that can be used for reference, and to provide suggestions for China social organizations to fully play their role. Based on the theory of embedded autonomy, compared and analyzed the “autonomy-embedded” of social organizations participating in cosmetics governance in the America, European Union, Japan and China from the governance concept, governance structure and governance method, we construct an analysis framework for the mode of social organizations participating in cosmetics governance. Then four models are derived: strong autonomy-strong embedded collaborative governance represented by America, strong autonomy-weak embedded association autonomy represented by the European Union, joint governance with central autonomy and embedded represented by Japan, and weak autonomy-strong embedded administrative leadership represented by China. At the same time, combined with China actual situation, it puts forward suggestions on innovating the participation of China social organizations in cosmetics governance, such as attaching importance to leading the sustainable development of the cosmetics industry in governance concepts, firmly guiding the development of social organizations through the government in governance structure, and paying attention to the role of social organizations in governance methods.

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    多光子成像技术及其在化妆品评估中的应用
    Multi-photon imaging technology and its application in cosmetic evaluation
    张嘉琪, 吴凡, 韩雨晴, 刘琦, 王俊杰, 盘瑶
    2024 (5):  605-613.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.015
    摘要 ( 95 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(6501KB) ( 78 )  

    多光子成像技术是一种观察人体皮肤组织结构的光学成像方法,其原理是利用不同波长的近红外激光使皮肤组织中特定的内源性或外源性荧光物质发出不同的荧光信号,从而观测、区分皮肤不同层的特定组织结构。近年来,该方法开始逐步应用于化妆品的评估中,如评估化妆品紧致抗皱、祛斑美白、透皮吸收的效果等。多光子成像技术能够通过监测皮肤形态或代谢的变化评估化妆品紧致抗皱的作用、定量黑色素分布和含量评估化妆品祛斑美白成分的功效性或判断特定皮肤的类型、可视化化妆品成分透皮吸收的过程评估其功效性或安全性。该方法获得的客观、可视化图像可以为化妆品评估提供定量的数据结果,在皮肤成像领域有着广阔的应用前景,本文综述了这种在体、无创、精准的三维成像方法在化妆品评估中的应用和进展。

    Multi-photon imaging technology is an optical imaging method that has been used to observe the structure of human skin tissue, which is based on the near-infrared lasers at different wavelengths. Endogenous fluorescent components in specific skin tissues or exogenous fluoresce-labeled substances can emit different fluorescence excited by the light, thereby observing and distinguishing specific tissue structures in different skin layers. In recent years, multi-photon imaging technology has gradually been applied to cosmetic evaluation, such as evaluating the effects of cosmetics on anti-wrinkle, whitening, spot removing and skin penetration. It can evaluate the effect of anti-wrinkle by monitoring the changes of skin metabolism or morphology, classify the specific skin type, evaluate the efficacy of cosmetics whitening ingredients by quantifying the distribution and content of melanin, and visualize the process of skin penetration of cosmetic ingredients. The objective and visual images have broad prospects which can provide quantitative results. This review summarizes the application and progress of this in vivo, non-invasive and accurate three-dimensional method in cosmetic evaluation.

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    分析与检测
    液相色谱-串联质谱法快速测定化妆品中游离的乙醇胺类物质
    Rapid determination of free ethanolamine compounds in cosmetics by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry
    曾广丰, 王志元, 谢建军, 王璐, 侯颖烨, 董洁
    2024 (5):  614-620.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.016
    摘要 ( 60 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(1469KB) ( 58 )  

    建立稳定同位素稀释-液相色谱-串联质谱法(LC-MS/MS)测定化妆品中游离的3种乙醇胺类物质。样品经异丙醇提取后,使用乙腈和0.1%甲酸-水溶液(体积分数,下同)梯度洗脱,Kinetex HILIC色谱柱分离,电喷雾电离源正离子模式电离,多反应监测模式进行测定。采用单因素试验优化得到最佳前处理条件:提取溶剂为异丙醇、超声波提取、提取时间为20 min、不改变样品pH直接提取。使用内标法曲线定量,一乙醇胺、二乙醇胺和三乙醇胺内标曲线分别在5.0~200,2.0~200和1.0~200 μg/L范围内线性关系良好,相关系数R2大于0.999,平均回收率范围在87.1%~97.0%,相对标准偏差(RSDs)在1.68%~6.57%之间,方法检出限为3.00~15.0 µg/kg,定量限为10.0~50.0 µg/kg。建立的方法适用于61批次化妆品样品的检测。该方法操作简便,定量准确,回收率稳定、灵敏度高、精密度高,适用于测定化妆品中的乙醇胺类物质。

    A stable isotope dilution-liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry method was established for the determination of three free ethanolamine compounds in cosmetics. The ethanolamine compounds were extracted with isopropanol and separated by Kinetex HILIC chromatographic column with isocratic elution using acetonitrile and 0.1% formic acid-water solution (V/V). The samples were ionized by positive ion mode of electrospray ionization source and determined by multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) mode. Optimization was conducted using single factor experiments for the best conditions of determination. The optimum determination conditions are using isopropanol by ultrasonic extraction for 20 min. Under this combination of conditions, the ranges of internal standard curves for monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, and triethanolamine are 5.0-200 μg/L, 2.0-200 μg/L and 1.0-200 μg/L, respectively, with the correlation coefficient R2 greater than 0.999. The average recovery rate ranges from 87.1% to 97.0%, and relative standard deviations (RSDs) are between 1.68%-6.57%. The limit of detection and limit of quantification are 3.00-15.0 µg/kg and 10.0-50.0 µg/kg, respectively. The established method is used for the detection of 61 cosmetic samples. The method is simple operation, accurate quantification, stable recovery, high sensitivity and high precision and suitable for the determination of free ethanolamine compounds in cosmetics.

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