用无创性评价方法测定了180名受试者下唇的水分含量、经皮水分流失率(TEWL)、唇部皮肤光滑度(SESM)、鳞屑指数(SESC)、皱纹参数(SEW)和唇部皮肤红区面积6个皮肤生理参数,并对比了6组(无添加组、海洋寡糖组、神经酰胺组、甘草次酸组、尿囊素组和混合组各30名)唇膏对唇部干燥、脱屑、皲裂的受试者皮肤生理参数的影响。实验结果显示海洋寡糖组、甘草次酸组和尿囊素组受试者在使用唇膏7天后,受试者唇部含水量分别显著增加44.40%,42.84%和58.08 (P<0.05);神经酰胺组和尿囊素组受试者在使用唇膏7天后其唇部经皮水分散失分别显著降低21.83%和24.72% (P<0.05);甘草次酸组和尿囊素组受试者在使用唇膏28天后其唇部皮肤光滑度值分别显著降低18.76%和14.97% (P<0.05);海洋寡糖组、神经酰胺组和尿囊素组在使用唇膏28天后其唇部皮肤鳞屑指数分别显著降低33.77%,42.69%和38.07% (P<0.05);海洋寡糖组、甘草次酸组和尿囊素组受试者在使用唇膏28天后其唇部皮肤皱纹参数分别显著降低23.06%,23.29%和25.98% (P<0.05);尿囊素组受试者在使用唇膏28天后其唇部皮肤唇部红区面积分别显著降低4.27% (P<0.05)。结合四种活性成分对诱导炎症的HSF细胞透明质酸(保湿效果)和炎症因子(IL-6)分泌的影响,发现海洋寡糖和尿囊素对受试者唇部皮肤含水量有很好的提升效果,进一步改善受试者唇部脱屑、皱纹症状;神经酰胺和尿囊素能很好地修护皮肤屏障,对受试者唇部皲裂、脱屑有好的修护效果。混合组受试者在使用唇膏28天后其唇部的角质层含水量增加,皮肤屏障得到修护变得更光滑,皱纹减少,鳞屑指数和红区值均降低,可良好缓解慢性唇炎症状,为开发治疗慢性唇炎的唇部产品奠定了基础。
This study used non-invasive evaluation methods measured six skin physiological parameters of the lower lip in 180 subjects, including moisture content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), smoothness (SESM), scaliness of the skin (SESC), wrinkles (SEW), and red area of the lip skin, and compared the effects of 6 groups of lip balms (no-additive group, marine oligosaccharides group, ceramides group, glycyrrhizinic acid group, allantoin group, and mixed group; 30 each) on the skin physiological parameters of dry, flaking, and cracked lip subjects. The results showed that the lip mositure content of the subjects in the marine oligosaccharide group, glycyrrhetinic acid group, and allantoin group increased significantly by 44.40%, 42.84% and 58.08% after 7 days of lip balm (P<0.05). The TEWL in the ceramide group and the allantoin group was significantly reduced by 21.83% and 24.72%, respectively, after 7 days of lip paste use (P<0.05). The lip skin smoothness values of subjects in the glycyrrhizic acid group and the allantoin group were significantly reduced by 18.76% and 14.97%, respectively, after 28 days of lip balm application (P<0.05). The lip skin scaling indices of subjects in the marine oligosaccharide group, the ceramides group, and the allantoin group were significantly reduced by 33.77%, 42.69%, and 38.07%, respectively, after 28 days of lip balm application (P<0.05). The wrinkle parameters of the lip skin of the subjects in the marine oligosaccharide, glycyrrhizinic acid and allantoin groups were significantly reduced by 23.06%, 23.29% and 25.98%, respectively, after 28 days of lip balm application (P<0.05). And the area of the red zone of the lip skin of the subjects in the allantoin group was significantly reduced by 4.27%, after 28 days of lip balm application (P<0.05). Combining the effects of the four active ingredients on the secretion of hyaluronic acid (moisturizing effect) and inflammatory factor (IL-6) in HSF cells, it suggests that marine oligosaccharides and allantoin have a perfect impact on enhancing the water content of the skin on the lips of the subjects, and further improve the symptoms of flaking and wrinkles on the lips of the subjects. The ceramide and allantoin can repair the skin barrier well and have a good effect on the chapped and flaky lips of the subjects. After 28 days of using lip balm, the water content of lips in the mixed group increased, the skin barrier was repaired and became smoother, and the wrinkles, scale index, and red zone value were reduced, which could well relieve chronic lip inflammation and lay a foundation for developing lip products for the treatment of chronic cheilitis.
