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    2025年, 第55卷, 第6期 刊出日期:2025-06-22 上一期   
    特邀专稿
    鼠李糖脂稳定的纳米乳液及其凝胶的构筑和性能研究
    Preparation and properties of the nanoemulsions and nanoemulsion gels stabilized with rhamnolipid
    蒋晓倩, 张丽亚, 宋爱新, 孙秀萍
    2025 (6):  677-686.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.001
    摘要 ( 43 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(2262KB) ( 33 )  

    以辛癸酸甘油酯(ODO)作为油相,生物表面活性剂鼠李糖脂(RL)为乳化剂,采用超声辅助法制备了水包油型纳米乳液。考察了乳化剂用量及油、水比例对纳米乳液稳定性的影响,确定了纳米乳液的形成区域,进一步探究了油相组成、温度、pH和氯化钠浓度等因素对纳米乳液形成的影响。结果表明,构筑的纳米乳液在经过较高温度处理以及较宽pH范围下均可稳定存在。为进一步提高纳米乳液稳定性,引入胶凝剂明胶制备了纳米乳液凝胶。明胶的引入显著增强了纳米乳液的稳定性,并延缓了活性成分(如百里香酚)的释放。研究为生物相容性乳液体系的构建及活性物质的封装与应用提供了有益的参考。

    Oil-in-water nanoemulsions were prepared by ultrasound-assisted method using octyl and decyl glycerate (ODO) as the oil phase and a biosurfactant, rhamnolipid (RL), as the emulsifier. The effects of emulsifier content, oil-water ratio, oil composition, temperature, pH and sodium chloride concentration on the stability of the nanoemulsions were studied. The nanoemulsions prepared could stand high temperature and are rather stable in a wide pH range. For further enhancing the stability of nanoemulsions, gelatin was introduced to produce nanoemulsion gels. The introduction of gelatin significantly increased the stability of nanoemulsions and could delay the release of active ingredients such as thymol. This study could provide useful information on the construction of biocompatible emulsion systems for encapsulation and application of active substances.

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    煤层气促解吸剂作用机理研究进展
    Advances in desorption-enhancing mechanisms for coalbed methane desorption agents
    鲁红升, 杨阳, 吴洋, 严向阳, 林波
    2025 (6):  687-699.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.002
    摘要 ( 34 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(2192KB) ( 25 )  

    煤层气作为重要的非常规天然气资源,其高效开发对改善能源结构和减少温室气体排放具有重要意义。文章系统综述了促解吸剂技术在煤层气开发中的研究进展与挑战,重点探讨了物理置换、化学竞争吸附、润湿性调控及热力学协同等多种作用机理。结果表明,物理置换类促解吸剂通过竞争吸附占据煤基质活性位点,增强甲烷解吸效率;表面活性剂等化学药剂通过重构气-液-固界面作用,降低毛细管阻力并优化孔隙流体分布;润湿性调控技术则通过改变煤岩表面亲疏水性,削弱甲烷与煤基质的结合强度。此外,热力学协同机制通过温度、压力与孔隙结构的动态演变,系统提升解吸动力学效率。然而,煤层非均质性、化学剂长期滞留风险及储层条件下工作液对煤岩作用机制不明等问题仍制约促解吸技术发展。未来研究需聚焦多因素耦合模型的构建、智能响应材料的开发及CO2封存与甲烷增采的一体化技术,推动煤层气开发向绿色化、精准化方向转型。

    Coalbed methane (CBM), as an important unconventional natural gas resource, plays a significant role in optimizing energy structures and reducing greenhouse gas emissions. In this review, the research progress and challenges for technologies of desorption agents in CBM development are systematically reviewed, focusing on various mechanisms including physical displacement, chemical competitive adsorption, wettability modification, and thermodynamic synergy. The literature survey has shown that physical displacement agents can enhance the desorption efficiency of methane by occupying the adsorption sites on coal matrices through competitive adsorption. Chemical agents such as surfactants can optimize pore fluid distribution and reduce capillary resistance by regulating gas-liquid-solid interfacial interactions. Wettability modification techniques can weaken methane-coal bonding strength by altering the hydrophilicity or hydrophobicity of coal. Additionally, thermodynamic synergy can systematically improve desorption kinetics through dynamic evolution among temperature field, pressure field, and pore structure evolution. However, challenges such as the heterogeneity of coalbed, the long-term retention risk of chemical agents, and the lack of clarity of the action mechanism of working fluid on coal under reservoir conditions still restrict technological development. To promote green and precision CBM development, future studies should prioritize constructing multiphysics coupling models, developing intelligent responsive materials, and integrating CO2 sequestration with methane recovery technologies.

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    基础研究
    颗粒型聚醚:一类新型的非水基泡沫消泡剂
    Particulated polyether: A novel defoamer for nonaqueous foams
    王玉江, 汤龙皓, 刘晓倩, 冯宁, 李洪光
    2025 (6):  700-708.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.003
    摘要 ( 27 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(2136KB) ( 13 )  

    以聚氧乙烯-聚氧丙烯-聚氧乙烯三嵌段共聚物和柠檬酸为原料,利用高温缩合-碳化工艺,制备了纳米碳交联的超支化/交联型聚醚。以三乙醇胺单油酸酯/对二甲苯混合物为模型体系,发现所制备的新型聚醚对非水泡沫具有优异的消除能力,30 min消泡率可达86%,消泡速度较无消泡剂体系提高2 000余倍。利用二氧化碳加压,对孤岛采油厂所产原油进行发泡,发现新型聚醚对原油泡沫亦具有良好的消泡能力。该研究为纳米碳混杂的聚醚消泡剂的研发提供了一条新的思路,有望应用于难以大量应用有机硅消泡剂的领域,如石油开采中因大量助剂的使用而形成的泡沫油。

    Using triblock copolymer poly(ethylene oxide)-poly(propylene oxide)-poly(ethylene oxide) and citric acid as raw materials, a novel polyether was synthesized through condensation-carbonization under high temperature, which had a hyperbranched structure using nanocarbon as the core, or crosslinked morphology connected by nanocarbon. The mixture of triethanolamine monooleate/p-xylene was selected as a model system to produce nonaqueous foam. It was found that the synthesized polyether had a high defoaming efficiency up to 86% within 30 min, demonstrating a defoaming rate over 2 000 times that of the defoamer-free system. Furthermore, the crude oil from Gudao oil production plant was foamed under high pressure of CO2. The polyether also showed good defoaming efficiency to this foam of crude oil. Our work might provide a new strategy to synthesize nanocarbon-hybridized polyether, which could find applications in cases where defoamers based on organosilicone could hardly be used on a large scale, e.g., the foamed oil produced by the oilfield auxiliary chemicals that are intensively used during oil exploitation.

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    开发与应用
    含酯基双子季铵盐表面活性剂C12-E2nOm-C12的合成及性能研究
    Synthesis and properties of Gemini quaternary ammonium surfactants containing ester groups C12-E2nOm-C12
    张扬博, 梁亚琴, 刘正薇, 冀晓宇, 赵晓男, 高瑞敏
    2025 (6):  709-714.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.004
    摘要 ( 27 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(1354KB) ( 13 )  
    以乙二醇、二甘醇、三甘醇、氯乙酰氯和N, N-二甲基十二烷基胺等为原料,经过两步反应合成了不同连接基链长的含酯基季铵盐Gemini表面活性剂C12-E2nOm-C12 n=1, 2, 3; m=2, 3, 4),通过红外光谱(IR)、核磁氢谱(1H NMR)、核磁碳谱(13C NMR)和高分辨率质谱(HRMS)表征其结构,并对其表面张力、乳化性能、润湿性能、泡沫性能等进行了测试。结果表明,C12-E2O2-C12,C12-E4O3-C12和C12-E6O4-C12的临界胶束浓度(cmc)分别为0.815,0.152和0.044 2 mmol/L, 与十二烷基三甲基氯化铵DTAC (cmc值为10.25 mmol/L)相比要低1~2个数量级,且随着连接基链长的增加cmc值降低。C12-E2O2-C12,C12-E4O3-C12和C12-E6O4-C12的乳化分水时间分别为336,492和682 s,润湿时间分别为79,70和64 s,与DTAC (乳化分水时间和润湿时间分别为116和87 s)相比,C12-E2nOm-C12具有良好的乳化性能和润湿性能。进一步研究发现C12-E2nOm-C12具有优异的起泡和稳泡性能;且随着连接基链长的增长,其乳化、起泡、稳泡和润湿性能增强。

    Three Gemini quaternary ammonium surfactants containing ester groups in spacers, C12-E2nOm-C12 (i.e., C12-E2O2-C12, C12-E4O3-C12 and C12-E6O4-C12), were synthesized via two-step reaction and characterized by IR, 1H NMR, 13C NMR and HRMS. The effects of spacer length on the self-aggregation, emulsifying, foaming and wetting properties of C12-E2nOm-C12 were investigated. Their corresponding monomer dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride (DTAC) was also investigated for comparison. The results showed that, the critical micelle concentration (cmc) values of C12-E2O2-C12, C12-E4O3-C12 and C12-E6O4-C12 were 0.815, 0.152 and 0.044 2 mmol/L, respectively, which were significantly lower than that of DTAC (10.25 mmol/L). Among these three Geminis, it was found that the cmc values of C12-E2nOm-C12 decreased with increasing spacer length. The phase separation time for evaluating the emulsifying abilities of C12-E2O2-C12, C12-E4O3-C12 and C12-E6O4-C12 were 336, 492 and 682 s, respectively; the wetting time of C12-E2O2-C12, C12-E4O3-C12 and C12-E6O4-C12 were 79, 70 and 64 s, respectively; therefore, C12-E2nOm-C12 exhibited excellent emulsifying and wetting properties compared with DTAC (the phase separation time was 116 s and the wetting time was 87 s). Moreover, C12-E2nOm-C12 also had better foaming ability and foam stability than DTAC. The emulsifying, foaming, foam-stabilizing and wetting abilities of C12-E2nOm-C12 were increased with the increase of spacer length.

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    经表皮失水率测量影响因素剖析及标准化操作研究
    Analysis of the influencing factors and study on the standardized operation of transepidermal water loss measurement
    陈凤玲, 王亚茹, 叶蓉姿, 梁嘉恩, 谢嘉颖, 谭建华
    2025 (6):  715-722.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.005
    摘要 ( 31 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(1332KB) ( 20 )  

    人体皮肤经表皮失水率(TEWL)的测试所受影响因素众多。通过设计不同的测试方案,对健康受试者的面颊及前臂内侧等区域的测试结果进行系统对比,探究测量方法、环境条件、受试部位及仪器设备等因素对TEWL测试结果的影响。结果表明,不同的测试方法(包括不同的测量模式、两次测量间隔时间、受试者等待时间和累积多次测量)均会影响测试结果的重现性,不同皮肤表面接触环境的温湿度、面部受试部位和昼夜时间等条件下的TEWL测试结果存在较大差异;不同型号的TEWL仪器之间测试结果具有强相关性,但测试稳定性具有显著差异。该研究较为系统地剖析了影响经表皮失水率测量的各种因素,建立了一个标准化的操作方法,为精准评价化妆品的功效提供可靠、科学的技术支撑。

    The transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of human skin is affected by many factors. Different test schemes were designed to systematically compare the test results of the cheek and inner forearm and other areas of healthy subjects, and explore the influence of measurement methods, environmental conditions, test site, instruments and equipment on TEWL test results. The results show that different test methods (including different measurement modes, interval time between two measurement, subject waiting time and accumulated multiple measurements) affect the reproducibility of the test results, and TEWL test results are significantly different under different conditions of environment temperature and humidity that skin surface contact, facial test site and day and night time. There is a strong correlation between the test results of different types of TEWL instruments, but the test stability is significantly different. In this study, various factors affecting the measurement of transepidermal water loss are systematically analyzed, and a standardized operation method is established to provide reliable and scientific technical support for accurate evaluation of the efficacy of cosmetics.

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    皮肤致敏体外方法:动力学直接多肽反应试验方法(kDPRA)的转化与验证
    Skin sensitisation in vitro method: kinetic direct peptide reactivity assay (kDPRA) transformation and validation
    刘婷, 刘师卜, 张励, 朵慧, 路勇, 张露勇
    2025 (6):  723-730.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.006
    摘要 ( 26 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1369KB) ( 13 )  

    皮肤致敏体外方法动力学直接多肽反应试验方法(kDPRA)是模拟皮肤致敏有害结局通路(AOP)的第一个关键事件(KE1),即亲电物质与皮肤蛋白亲核中心的共价结合;基于待测物对含有半胱氨酸的合成模型肽的反应性,通过检测6个时间点肽与不同浓度待测物孵育后的剩余量,计算待测物的最大反应速率常数的对数lg kmax,从而识别强致敏性物质(GHS 1A)。国内目前尚无该方法的报道。文章考察了不同品牌单溴代二苯甲烷对试验的影响,并选择7种已知致敏性的化合物,验证kDPRA方法预测准确性。结果表明,不同品牌单溴代二苯甲烷对预测结果影响在可接受范围;7种物质致敏性预测结果与已知分类一致。kDPRA方法可以准确识别强致敏物质。

    The in vitro method kinetic direct peptide reactivity assay (kDPRA) for skin sensitisation is the first key event (KE1) for modelling the skin sensitisation adverse outcome pathway (AOP): covalent binding of electrophilic substances to nucleophilic centres of skin proteins. Based on the reactivity of tested substance and cysteine, the logarithm of the maximum rate constant (lg kmax) of the tested substance was calculated by detecting the amount of peptide remaining after incubation with different concentrations of the tested substance at six time points, which is used to support the discrimination of UN GHS subcategory 1A skin sensitisers (GHS 1A). This method has not yet been reported in China. The effect of different fluorescence efficacy monobromobimane on the test was examined. Seven compounds with known sensitising strengths were selected to validate the predictive accuracy of the kDPRA. The results show that the effect of different brands of monobromobimane on the prediction results can be accepted. The prediction of allergenicity for the 7 substances is consistent with the known classification, and that kDPRA can accurately identify the subcategory 1A skin sensitisers.

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    增稠剂及工艺对蔗糖酯乳化体系产品的影响
    Effects of thickeners and processes on the emulsion systems emulsified with sucrose polystearate
    吴巧霞, 程颖, 王飞飞
    2025 (6):  731-738.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.007
    摘要 ( 28 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(6297KB) ( 14 )  

    文章旨在深入探究增稠剂种类及工艺对蔗糖酯乳化体系产品特性的影响。通过对比分析样品的理化特性、乳化颗粒的尺寸分布以及稳定性测试结果,系统评估了不同增稠剂(包括需中和的Pemulen TR-1、Carbopol Ultrez 21、Carbopol Ultrez 30,以及无需中和的Aristoflex AVC、SEPIMAX ZEN、Aristoflex BLV)的加入方式及工艺对蔗糖酯乳化剂乳化效能及最终产品特性的影响。实验结果显示,预先将需中和的增稠剂加入乳化体系显著降低了蔗糖酯的乳化能力,导致生成的乳液粒径增大且分布不均。相比之下,无需中和的增稠剂对蔗糖酯乳化剂的乳化能力无显著影响。因此,对于需中和的增稠剂,建议以分散液形式在乳化过程结束后、低温阶段下,并伴随适当的混合强度加入蔗糖酯乳化体系,以制得粒径较小、稳定性优越且外观细腻的产品。研究揭示了增稠剂选择及加入工艺对产品特性的影响,为增稠剂在乳化体系中的高效应用提供了新思路和新方法。

    The effects of thickeners and processes on the product properties of emulsion systems were studied, in which sucrose polystearate was used as an emulsifier. The physical and chemical properties, the size distribution of droplets and the stability of the samples were analyzed to evaluate the emulsification efficiency of sucrose polystearate in presence of different thickeners. In this study, two categories of thickeners were used, including neutralizable ones such as Pemulen TR-1, Carbopol Ultrez 21, and Carbopol Ultrez 30, and non-neutralizable ones such as Aristoflex AVC, SEPIMAX ZEN, and Aristoflex BLV. The experimental results indicated that, those neutralizable thickeners pre-added into the system had significantly reduced the emulsifying ability of sucrose polystearate, resulting in the formation of emulsions with larger particle size and uneven distribution. In contrast, no significant influence was observed for non-neutralizable thickeners upon the emulsifying ability of sucrose polystearate. Therefore, for neutralizable thickeners, it was recommended to incorporate them into the system in a dispersion form after the emulsification process, during the low-temperature stage, and with appropriate mixing intensity, thus to prepare products with smaller particle size, good stability and fine appearance. This study revealed the influences of selection and addition of thickeners, which might provide new ideas and methods for application of thickeners in emulsion systems. It could be helpful for the design and optimization of thickeners and emulsion systems.

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    油茶籽油-神经酰胺纳米乳液制备及研究
    Preparation and study of Camellia oleifera seed oil-ceramide nanoemulsion
    王兴婷, 施兆娟, 吴军, 袁传勋, 金日生
    2025 (6):  739-746.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.008
    摘要 ( 30 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1660KB) ( 19 )  
    为提高油茶籽油(Camellia oleifera seed oil,CSO)在化妆品领域的开发和应用,以CSO为化妆品基质油,并配伍神经酰胺(Ceramide,Cer),采用高压均质法制备并优化了CSO-Cer纳米乳液的最佳配方和条件。结果显示:在均质压力100 MPa,循环次数为7次,CSO质量分数为15%,Cer添加量为1%,氢化卵磷脂质量分数为4%,胆固醇质量分数为0.2%,甘油质量分数为25%的条件下,得到具有最优粒径和稳定性的纳米乳液。此乳液粒径为124.7 nm、多分散指数为0.108,Zeta电位为-55.7 mV。进一步测试发现,该CSO-Cer纳米乳液展现出良好的保湿特性和透皮性能。因此,基于CSO的CSO-Cer纳米乳液是一种潜在的新型功能性化妆品乳液,为后续CSO在化妆品领域的应用提供了重要的技术参考。

    In order to enhance the development and application of Camellia oleifera seed oil (CSO) in the field of cosmetics, the study utilizes CSO as the cosmetic base oil and combines it with ceramide (Cer). High-pressure homogenization was employed to prepare and optimize the best formula and conditions for the CSO-Cer nanoemulsion. The results show that under the conditions of homogenization pressure at 100 MPa, 7 cycles, a CSO mass fraction of 15%, a Cer addition of 1%, a hydrogenated lecithin mass fraction of 4%, a cholesterol mass fraction of 0.2%, and a glycerol mass fraction of 25%, a nanoemulsion with optimal particle size and stability is obtained. This emulsion has a particle size of 124.7 nm, a polydispersity index of 0.108, and a Zeta potential of -55.7 mV. Further testing reveals that the CSO-Cer nano-emulsion exhibits excellent moisturizing and transdermal properties. Consequently, the CSO-based CSO-Cer nanoemulsion is a potential new type of functional cosmetic emulsion, providing significant technical reference for the subsequent application of CSO in the field of cosmetics.

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    负载薄荷醇的O1/W/O2型双重乳液的制备及性能研究
    Preparation and properties of O1/W/O2 double emulsion loaded with menthol
    徐月玲, 董心凤, 朱鲜艳, 杨歌, 徐瑞霜, 唐伟, 于丽
    2025 (6):  747-755.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.009
    摘要 ( 26 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(4226KB) ( 12 )  

    以薄荷醇的辛癸酸甘油酯溶液为内油相(O1)、三乙酸甘油酯为外油相(O2),以Tween 80、Span 80分别为水溶性乳化剂和油溶性乳化剂,采用两步乳化法制备了负载薄荷醇的油包水包油(O1/W/O2)型双重乳液。考察了乳化剂含量及油水质量比等因素对所制备的负载薄荷醇的O1/W/O2型双重乳状液体系稳定性的影响,确定了其最佳制备条件。研究了O1/W/O2型载香乳液的乳液类型、微观结构以及室温放置、高速离心对乳液稳定性的影响,并考察了其对薄荷醇的载香、持香及加热释香性能。研究结果表明:在薄荷醇溶液与水相(Tween 80的质量分数为5%)的质量比为6∶4时制备O1/W型初级乳液,然后以初级乳液与外油相三乙酸甘油酯(Span 80质量分数为5%)的质量比为5∶5所制备的负载薄荷醇的O1/W/O2型双重乳液的稳定性最好,且经过12 000 r/min离心3 min或者室温放置60 d,依然能稳定存在且不分层。其对薄荷醇的最大负载率可达22.7%,且在40-90 ℃温度区间能够实现薄荷醇的控制释放。该研究以多重乳液为载体实现了薄荷醇(薄荷香精的主要成分)的有效负载及可控释放,为香精在相关领域(如食品和家居香氛行业)中的应用奠定了理论基础及提供了技术支持。

    The O1/W/O2 double emulsion loaded with menthol was prepared by two-step emulsification method, with caprylic capric triglyceride solution of menthol as the inner oil phase (O1), glyceryl triacetate as the outer oil phase (O2), Tween 80 and Span 80 as the water-soluble and the oil-soluble emulsifiers, respectively. The effects of emulsifier contents and oil-water mass ratios on the stability of O1/W/O2 double emulsion loaded with menthol were investigated, and the optimum preparation conditions were determined. Moreover, the emulsion type and microstructure of O1/W/O2 double emulsion were studied, and its loading, holding and heat-releasing properties for menthol were explored. The results show that the stability of the O1/W emulsion (primary emulsion) is the best when the mass ratio of O1 phase to water phase (mass percentage of Tween 80 is 5%) is 6∶4, and the O1/W/O2 emulsion loaded with menthol displays the best stability when the mass ratio of primary emulsion to O2 phase (mass percentage of Span 80 is 5%) is 5∶5. And after centrifugation at 12 000 r/min for 3 min or at room temperature for 60 days, it can still exist stably and without stratification. When menthol is loaded with this emulsion, its maximum load rate can reach 22.7%, and the controlled release of menthol can be achieved in the temperature range of 40-90 ℃. In this study, the payload and controlled release of menthol (the main component of peppermint essence) are realized by using double emulsion as the carrier, which lays a theoretical foundation and provides a technical support for the applications of essences in the relevant fields, such as food and home fragrance industries.

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    磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇增强皮肤抗氧化和抗皱能力研究
    Phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol augments skin’s antioxidant and anti-wrinkle capabilities
    帖航, 李琦, 朱翠翠, 袁旻嘉, 徐亮
    2025 (6):  756-766.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.010
    摘要 ( 31 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1360KB) ( 19 )  
    文章旨在评估磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇作为化妆品成分的潜力,通过构建H2O2和UVA诱导的人皮肤成纤维细胞(HSF)损伤模型,比较磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇与未包裹白藜芦醇的抗氧化及抗皱能力。结果表明,磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇不仅能促进皮肤吸收,还显著提高其抗氧化能力。在H2O2诱导的HSF细胞损伤模型中,磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇在胞内活性氧(ROS)的中和能力显著优于未包裹的白藜芦醇。进一步分析表明,这一增强效果与经磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇处理的细胞中超氧化物歧化酶(SOD)、谷胱甘肽过氧化物酶(GSH-Px)以及过氧化氢酶(CAT)活性的显著提升紧密相关。此外,在UVA照射的HSF细胞中,磷脂酰胆碱包裹的白藜芦醇可有效降低基质金属蛋白酶-1和-3 (MMP-1和MMP-3)的水平,同时提高胶原蛋白Ⅰ和Ⅲ (Col-1和Col-3)的含量,具有显著的抗皱作用。研究成果可为通过磷脂酰胆碱包裹技术有效改善化妆品成分功效,从而改进护肤品配方提供重要评价标准和应用参考。

    The objective of this research was to assess the potential of phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol as a cosmetic ingredient. The hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and ultraviolet A (UVA) induced human skin fibroblasts (HSF) models of skin damage were established to compare the antioxidant and anti-wrinkle properties between phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol and unencapsulated resveratrol. The findings reveal that encapsulating resveratrol with phosphatidylcholine not only enhances skin absorption but also significantly improves its antioxidant capabilities. In the H2O2-induced HSF injury model, phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol demonstrates a superior ability to neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by H2O2 compared to the resveratrol group. Further analysis indicates that this enhanced functionality is associated with increased enzymatic activities of superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px) and catalase (CAT) when treated with phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol. Additionally, in UVA-irradiated HSF cells, phosphatidylcholine-encapsulated resveratrol effectively reduces the levels of matrix metalloproteinases-1 and-3 (MMP-1 and MMP-3) and increased the contents of Collagen Ⅰ and Collagen Ⅲ (Col-1 and Col-3), demonstrating significant anti-wrinkle effects. These findings provide critical evaluation criteria and application references for enhancing cosmetic ingredients through phosphatidylcholine encapsulation, thereby advancing skincare formulations.

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    基于代谢组学和网络药理学研究沉香叶提取物的防脱机制
    Studies on the anti-hair loss mechanism of Aquilaria sinensis leaf extract by integrated metabolomics and network pharmacology
    彭振刚, 黄政皖, 刘喆, 蔺虓霄
    2025 (6):  767-778.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.011
    摘要 ( 34 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(2838KB) ( 17 )  

    通过代谢组学和网络药理学来研究沉香叶提取物的防脱机制。利用代谢组学研究沉香叶提取物中活性物种类,通过网络药理学来研究活性物的防脱机理,并利用分子对接技术来验证。利用代谢组学方法从沉香叶提取物中鉴定出572个活性物,活性物对应的靶点有1 447个,和脱发相关的靶点有492个,二者共有靶点有88个。通过构建共有靶点和活性物之间的网络确定了20个核心活性物,包括香草酸、绒毛素、咖啡酸和芹菜素等。对88个共同靶点进行PPI网络分析筛选出五个关键靶点:TNF,TP53,IL6,PPARG和EGFR。GO和KEGG通路富集分析表明参与炎症、激素平衡、细胞生长、增殖、凋亡和氧化应激。分子对接研究证实了核心活性化合物与关键靶点之间具有高结合力。对这些核心化合物的药物相似性评估表明它们有望作为潜在的脱发治疗药物。这项研究阐明了沉香叶治疗脱发的复杂分子机制,为后续在护发产品中的应用提供参考。

    The anti-hair loss mechanism of Aquilaria sinensis leaf extract (ASE) has been studied by using metabolomics and network pharmacology. Metabolomics was utilized to comprehensively identify the active constituents of ASE, and the network pharmacology was used to elucidate their anti-hair loss mechanism, which was verified by molecular docking technology. 572 active compounds were identified from the ASE by metabolomics methods, where there are 1 447 corresponding targets and 492 targets related to hair loss, totaling 88 targets. 20 core active substances were identified by constructing a network between common targets and active substances, which include vanillic acid, chorionic acid, caffeic acid and apigenin. The five key targets of TNF, TP53, IL6, PPARG, and EGFR were screened out by the PPI network analysis on 88 common targets.The GO and KEGG pathway enrichment analysis showed that the inflammation, hormone balance, cell growth, proliferation, apoptosis, and oxidative stress are involved. Molecular docking studies have confirmed the high binding affinity between core active compounds and key targets. The drug similarity assessment on these core compounds suggested that they have the potential to be used as potential hair loss treatment drugs. This study elucidates the complex molecular mechanism of ASE in treating hair loss, and provides a reference for the future applications in hair care products.

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    天麻素对UVB损伤皮肤的修复作用
    Repairing effect of gastrodin on UVB-damaged skin
    厉浩东, 吴兴怡, 张影, 王玮恋, 王伟, 李丽
    2025 (6):  779-784.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.012
    摘要 ( 25 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(1653KB) ( 15 )  
    为探究天麻素(GAS)在中波紫外线(UVB)损伤皮肤方面的修复作用,细胞模型采用UVB辐射损伤人角质形成细胞(HaCaT),通过酶联免疫吸附测定(ELISA)、实时荧光定量PCR技术(qRT-PCR)及免疫荧光检测法研究了GAS对UVB刺激后的细胞中基质金属蛋白酶1 (MMP-1)、肿瘤坏死因子-α (TNF-α)、前列腺素E2 (PGE2)分泌的抑制作用,水通道蛋白3 (AQP3)、丝聚蛋白(FLG)的mRNA表达水平的调控作用以及对两种蛋白含量的影响。结果表明,GAS溶液质量浓度为200 µg/mL时,可修复UVB产生的炎症损伤,抑制TNF-α和PGE2的分泌(P<0.05和P<0.001);上调FLG,AQP3的mRNA表达水平(P<0.01和P<0.05),并增加FLG和AQP3的蛋白含量(P<0.01和P<0.001),提升皮肤水合作用,促进皮肤屏障功能修复,从而加固屏障结构,这可为GAS在修复类化妆品中的应用提供科学实验依据。

    In order to investigate the reparative effect of gastrodin (GAS) in the skin damaged by medium-wave ultraviolet (UVB) rays, human keratinocytes (HaCaT) was used to build UVB radiation damage cell model. The inhibitory effect of GAS on the secretion of TNF-α and PGE2 in UVB-irradiated cells, and the modulation of the mRNA expression levels of AQP3 and FLG, as well as the effects on the content of the two proteins, were investigated by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA), real-time quantitative fluorescence PCR (qRT-PCR), and immunofluorescent assays. The results show that GAS solution at a mass concentration of 200 µg/mL can repair the inflammatory damage produced by UVB, inhibit the secretion of TNF-α and PGE2 (P<0.05 and P<0.001), up-regulate the mRNA expression levels of FLG and AQP3 (P<0.01 and P<0.05), and increase the protein content of FLG and AQP3 (P<0.01 and P<0.001). It elevates the skin hydration and promotes the repair of the skin barrier function, thus reinforcing the barrier structure, which can provide scientific experimental basis for the application of GAS in restorative cosmetics.

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    专论与综述
    磁絮凝在含油废水处理中的应用进展
    Application of magnetic flocculation in oily wastewater treatment
    李子浩, 董晓娜, 郑焕钦, 申婧, 王淑军, 杜志平
    2025 (6):  785-794.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.013
    摘要 ( 17 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(3196KB) ( 13 )  

    随着工业技术的快速发展,在石油开采、交通运输等生产过程产生的大量含油废水,具有排量大、成分复杂、生物降解性能差等特点,未经恰当处理排放入环境中,会对人体健康和生态环境造成巨大的危害。磁絮凝是一种新兴的水处理技术,在降低浊度、去除磷酸盐、有机物等领域已被证明具有显著效果,在水处理领域呈现出很好的应用潜力。文章系统综述了磁絮凝在含油废水处理中的应用研究进展,具体介绍了含油废水的来源及特性、磁絮凝的分类、工艺条件、在含油废水处理中的应用以及磁絮凝材料的回收利用,并对当前磁絮凝在处理含油废水领域的研究进行了简要介绍。最后从磁性材料、适用范围、多工艺耦合联用等方面对磁絮凝的发展方向进行了展望。

    With rapid development of industrial technology, large amount of oily wastewater has been generated in the processes of oil exploitation, transportation, etc. Oily wastewater is characterized by large discharge, complex composition, and poor biodegradation. If it is discharged into the environment without proper treatment, it will cause great harm to human health and the ecological environment. In view of the current situations such as water scarcity, serious environmental pollution and increasingly stringent emission standards, how to deal with oily wastewater is one of the research hotspots in the field of water treatment. Magnetic flocculation is a new water treatment technology, which has been proven effective in the fields of turbidity reduction, phosphate removal, and organic compound removal. Therefore, magnetic flocculation shows great application potential in the field of water treatment. Herein, the research progress of magnetic flocculation in oily wastewater treatment was systematically reviewed. Firstly, the sources and characteristics of oily wastewater were introduced, and the classification of magnetic flocculation was presented. Then, the preparation of magnetic materials, the process conditions when applied in oily wastewater treatment, and the recycling of magnetic flocculants were specifically introduced. Moreover, the current research on magnetic flocculation in the field of oily wastewater treatment was briefly introduced. Finally, the development direction of magnetic flocculation was prospected from the aspects of magnetic materials, application range, multi-process coupling, etc., in the hope of a broader application in the treatment of oily wastewater.

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    离子液体:药食同源植物功效成分提取的新选择
    A new option for extracting functional components from medicine and food homologous plants: Ionic liquids
    赵星宇, 周利琴, 赵祯霞, 黄艳
    2025 (6):  795-802.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.014
    摘要 ( 69 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1392KB) ( 31 )  

    药食同源植物在食品营养和中医药领域中扮演着重要角色。传统提取技术虽具备一定的实用价值,却存在环境污染、资源浪费等问题。随着对药食同源植物和天然产物相关研究的不断深入,寻找高效、环保的提取方法成为研究热点。离子液体(Ionic liquids,ILs)作为一种新型的绿色溶剂,因其独特的物理化学性质在天然产物的提取领域展现出巨大潜力。文章综述了离子液体在药食同源植物功效成分提取中的研究进展,包括离子液体的基本特性、发展历程以及对天然产物中功能成分提取的作用机制。详细讨论了药食同源植物的定义、种类及其功效成分,并深入分析了离子液体在这些植物功效成分提取中的应用实例。此外,还探讨了使用离子液体进行提取的优势,如高选择性、可调性以及环境友好性,同时也指出了当前面临的挑战,包括成本问题、生物安全性问题等。最后,对离子液体在药食同源植物功效成分提取中的未来发展趋势进行了展望。

    Medicine and food homologous plants play important roles in the fields of food nutrition and traditional Chinese medicines. Traditional extraction techniques, despite their practical value, pose problems such as environmental pollution and resource wastage. With the advancement in research of medicine and food homologous plants and natural products, seeking for efficient and environmentally friendly extraction methods has become a hot topic. Ionic liquids (ILs), as a type of novel green solvents, have shown great potential in the field of natural product extraction due to their unique physicochemical properties. Herein, the research progress of ionic liquids for extraction of functional components from medicine and food homologous plants has been reviewed, including the basic characteristics of ionic liquids, their development history, and the mechanisms in extracting functional components from natural products. The definition, types, and functional components of medicine and food homologous plants were introduced in detail, and the application examples of ionic liquids in extraction of these plant components were analyzed. Additionally, the advantages of using ionic liquids for extraction were discussed, such as high selectivity, tunability, and environmental friendliness. The current challenges were also pointed out, including cost issues and safety. Finally, the future development trend of ionic liquids in extraction of functional components from medicine and food homologous plants was prospected.

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    化妆品活性成分通过细胞自噬发挥护肤功效的研究进展
    Progress of cosmetic active ingredients exerting skincare efficacy through cellular autophagy
    吴凡, 张嘉琪, 秦毅, 王俊, 吴宗翰, 盘瑶
    2025 (6):  803-810.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.015
    摘要 ( 40 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1427KB) ( 33 )  

    自噬作为一种细胞稳态维持机制,可清除受损或多余的蛋白质和细胞器。一些化妆品活性成分可通过调节自噬,清除细胞中的废物和调节相关通路与细胞功能,从而发挥修复细胞损伤、减缓非酶糖基化进程、修护皮肤屏障损伤,减少黑色素生成与皮脂分泌等作用,在化妆品开发应用中存在巨大的前景。文章综述了自噬在抗衰老、修护皮肤屏障、美白与控油功效方面发挥的作用及其分子机制,归纳了调节自噬改善皮肤状态的化妆品活性成分,最后对其在化妆品行业中的发展前景和开发方向进行了展望。

    Autophagy, as a cellular homeostasis maintenance mechanism, removes damaged or excess proteins and organelles within the cell. Some cosmetic active ingredients can remove cellular wastes, and regulate the related pathways and cellular functions through autophagy, which play an important role on repairing cellular damage, slowing down the process of non-enzymatic glycosylation, strengthening skin barrier, and inhibiting the melanogenesis and sebum secretion. It has a great prospect in the development and application of cosmetic products. Therefore, this paper reviews the role of autophagy and its molecular mechanism in anti-aging, skin barrier repair, skin whitening and oil control efficacies, summarizes the cosmetic active ingredients that regulate autophagy to improve the skin condition, and finally looks forward to the prospects and development direction of autophagy related research in the cosmetic industry.

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    分析与检测
    超高效液相色谱-三重四极杆/线性离子阱串联质谱法测定睫毛相关化妆品中的7种前列腺素类似物
    Determination of 7 prostaglandin analogsin eyelash-related cosmetics by UPLC-QTRAP-MS/MS
    宫旭, 孙晶, 冯有龙
    2025 (6):  811-816.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.06.016
    摘要 ( 32 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF(1384KB) ( 19 )  
    建立了基于超高效液相色谱-三重四极杆/线性离子阱质谱(UPLC-QTRAP-MS/MS)的分析方法,用于测定睫毛相关化妆品中的7种前列腺素类似物。样品经甲醇超声提取后,利用ACE Excel 2 C18 (100 mm×2.1 mm,2 μm)色谱柱进行分离,流动相为乙腈和5 mmol/L乙酸铵(添加0.05%甲酸)溶液,采用梯度洗脱程序。在ESI+模式,多反应监测(MRM)联合增强子离子扫描(EPI)模式下采集数据,基质匹配标准曲线外标法定量,在保留时间和离子对相对丰度比定性的基础上,通过EPI谱图比对,对目标成分进一步确证。结果表明,7种前列腺素类似物在各自相应的线性范围内呈良好的线性相关性,相关系数r均超过0.999,检出限为0.002 0~0.020 μg/g,定量限为0.005 0~0.050 μg/g。在3个加标水平下,平均回收率为87.3%~107.0%,RSD为0.7%~5.4% (n=6)。利用该方法分析了收集的9批睫毛相关化妆品,1批检出比马前列素。

    A method based on ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-triple quadrupole/linear ion trap mass spectrometry (UPLC-QTRAP-MS/MS) has been developed for the detection and quantification of 7 prostaglandin analogs in eyelash-related cosmetics. Samples were extracted with methanol via ultrasonic extraction and separated on an ACE Excel 2 C18 (100 mm× 2.1 mm, 2 μm) column using a mobile phase of acetonitrile-5 mmol/L ammonium acetate (containing 0.05% formic acid) in a gradient elution mode. Data were collected in the ESI+ mode using multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) combined with enhanced product ion scanning (EPI). Quantification was performed using matrix-matched external standard calibration curves, with both retention times and the ratios of ion pair abundances serving as the basis for qualitative assessments. Further confirmation of target components was achieved through comparison of EPI spectra. The results reveal a strong linear correlation for the 7 prostaglandin analogs within their respective linearity ranges, with the correlation coefficients exceeding 0.999. Sensitivity is characterized by the detection limits ranging from 0.002 0 to 0.020 μg/g and quantitation limits from 0.005 0 to 0.050 μg/g. The average recoveries at three spiked levels are found to be between 87.3% and 107.0%, with the RSDs varying from 0.7% to 5.4% (n=6). This method is used to analyze 9 batches of eyelash-related cosmetics, and 1 batch is found to contain bimatoprost. The developed method, distinguished by its operational straightforwardness, analytical precision, and detection sensitivity, is adeptly applicable for the quantitative determination and qualitative screening of the 7 prostaglandin analogs in cosmetics.

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