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    2025年, 第55卷, 第10期 刊出日期:2025-10-22 上一期    下一期
    特邀专稿
    金属有机框架材料在化妆品中的应用
    Applications of metal-organic framework materials in cosmetics
    李豹,赵鑫宇,吴立新
    2025 (10):  1221-1235.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.001
    摘要 ( 74 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF(2487KB) ( 57 )  

    金属有机框架(MOFs)是一类多功能孔结构材料,具有灵活的结构配置、可调节的孔径以及定制化的表面化学微环境,为其在多个领域的应用奠定了基础。在日用化学品领域,MOFs由于其较高的稳定性和负载能力、低的生物毒性、优良的发光性能和强的催化能力等特点,展示出强大的应用潜力,在多种场景得到广泛应用。通过对化学组成、结构和性质阐述,MOFs材料展示出其与日用化学品领域应用的极好契合性。对MOFs在化妆品中有机物和金属离子检测、紫外防护、挥发性有机分子的负载和可控释放以及具有皮肤治疗功能的控释等研究结果进行总结,系统地展现了MOFs在化妆品中应用的研究进展。对已有相关应用与MOFs结构之间的关系进行讨论,指出了孔结构材料的重要价值。在总结现有工作的基础上,对MOFs在化妆品领域的进一步发展进行了展望,提出了包括现有应用研究的深入探索、在更多化妆品领域的应用拓展、多功能集成的MOFs应用、基于MOFs复合材料的开发以及从实验室研究到工业生产的放大合成等观点。

    Metal-organic frameworks (MOFs) represent a class of multifunctional hybrid materials distinguished by their tunable structural architectures, adjustable pore dimensions, and tailorable surface chemical functionalities, which underpin their broad applicability across diverse domains. Within the cosmetics industry, MOFs exhibit significant application potential owing to their high thermal and chemical stability, substantial loading capacity, low biological toxicity, favorable luminescent characteristics, and robust catalytic activity, leading to their increasing deployment in various cosmetic-related applications. This article systematically outlines the structural features and functional properties of MOFs, emphasizing their suitability for integration into cosmetic systems. Furthermore, it provides a comprehensive review of recent advances in the utilization of MOFs in cosmetics, encompassing the detection of organic contaminants and metal ions, ultraviolet protection, encapsulation, and controlled release of volatile active ingredients, as well as targeted delivery of dermatological therapeutic agents. The structure-property-application relationships of MOFs are critically examined. Building upon the foundation of existing research, this study offers a comprehensive outlook on the future development of MOFs in the field of cosmetics. It presents several strategic perspectives, including an in-depth analysis of current application studies, the expansion of MOFs applications into additional cosmetic domains, the integration of multifunctional MOFs systems, the development of MOFs-based composite materials, and the scale-up of synthesis processes from laboratory-scale research to industrial production. It is expected that the present piece of paper can contribute valuable guidance for further exploration and practical implementation in this emerging field of cosmetics.

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    银纳米簇二维组装体合成、发光与抑菌性能
    Synthesis, luminescence, and bacteriostatic performance of Ag(I) nanocluster 2D assembly
    孔令灿,韩毅
    2025 (10):  1236-1244.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.002
    摘要 ( 40 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(3895KB) ( 40 )  

    二维片状结构的银纳米簇配合物组装体在发光、催化以及抑菌等方面具有很好的应用前景。在室温下利用D-青霉胺作为稳定剂采用“一锅法”制备了银纳米簇配合物组装体,并利用红外光谱、X-射线光电子能谱、核磁波谱、元素分析、高分辨质谱以及热重分析对其进行了详细表征。透射电镜、冷冻选区电子衍射、原子力显微镜以及粉末X-射线衍射分析表明银纳米簇组装体是由银纳米簇组装形成的六方片状结构,单片厚度约8.3 nm。这种超薄结构的银纳米簇组装体H[Ag5(DPA) 6]表现出很强的绿色发光,绝对发光量子产率高达10.6%,在540 nm的发光寿命约为14.5 µs,因此组装体的发光起源于三重态的配体到金属-金属的电荷转移跃迁(3LMMCT)。进一步研究发现,片状结构的银纳米簇组装体只有当D-青霉胺和硝酸银的摩尔比超过2时才会形成,说明在这种条件下形成的纳米簇H[Ag5 (DPA) 6]可以在Ag(I) …Ag(I)相互作用和氢键作用下进行取向连接形成六方结构的组装体。此外,这种片状结构的银纳米簇组装体通过改变细菌细胞膜的通透性表现出很好的抑菌性能,在化妆品中具有很好的应用前景。本研究不仅为超薄二维组装体的构筑、发光和抑菌性能研究提供了一个很好的模型,还可为其它二维材料的设计和构筑提供有价值的参考。

    Ag (I)-S complex assemblies of two-dimensional (2D) sheet structure have good application prospects in luminescence, catalysis, and bacteriostatic performance. D-penicillamine is used as a capping agent to prepare Ag (I) -S complex assembly by “one-pot” method at room temperature, which is in detail characterized by ATR-FTIR spectrum, X-ray photoelectron spectrum, NMR spectrum, elemental analysis, high-resolution mass spectrum, and thermogravimetric analysis. Transmission electron microscope, cryogenic-selected area electron diffraction, atomic force microscope, and powder X-ray diffraction analyses indicate that Ag (I) -S complex assembly is a type of novel sheet structure comprised of Ag nanoclusters, in which the single sheet merely possesses a thickness of around 8.3 nm. The 2D Ag (I) -S nanocluster assembly H [Ag5 (DPA) 6] shows intense green emission, and its absolute luminescent quantum yield is found to be as high as 10.6%, the photoluminescent lifetime at 540 nm is around 14.5 µs, and thus the assembly luminescence is believed to arise from triplet ligand-to-metal-metal charge transfer transition (3LMMCT). The Ag (I) nanocluster assembly of sheet structure can be formed only when the molar ratio of D-penicillamine and silver nitrate is larger than 2, which suggests that in this case Ag nanoclusters H [Ag5 (DPA) 6] can undergo oriented attachment with each other into close-packed sheet supramolecular assembly through Ag (I) …Ag (I) interactions and inter-ligand hydrogen bonds. In addition, the Ag (I) -S assembly shows good bacteriostatic performance, which functions through the destroying of cellular membrane permeability, and has great application potentials in cosmetics area. Our work not only provides a good model for the construction of ultrathin 2D assembly and the investigation of luminescent and bacteriostatic behaviors but also offers significant guidance and reference for the design and construction of other 2D materials.

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    基础研究
    单十四烷基磷酸钠的pH可逆响应及回收
    Reversible pH response of disodium monotetradecyl phosphate and how to recover it from solutions or emulsions
    姚雨,邹欢金,刘雪锋
    2025 (10):  1245-1251.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.003
    摘要 ( 44 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1629KB) ( 37 )  

    为了探究单烷基磷酸钠是否具有pH可逆响应,采用焦磷酸法合成得到单十四烷基磷酸酯(MC14P),进而用NaOH中和MC14P得到其二钠盐(MC14P-2Na)和一钠盐(MC14P-Na)。结果表明,MC14P-2Na是对pH有良好可逆响应的沉淀-溶解开关表面活性剂,在pH=11.5时,MC14P-2Na的Krafft温度(KT)约0.4 ℃,临界胶束浓度cmc约为1.9×10-2 mol/L (25 ℃);在pH=6.3时,MC14P-2Na转变为水溶性较差的MC14P-Na,其KT约47.9 ℃,表界面活性较差;当pH值在11.5和6.3之间循环改变时,MC14P-2Na与MC14P-Na之间相应地循环转变,至少10个循环未观察到任何明显的异常;基于MC14P-2Na与MC14P-Na之间依赖于pH的可逆转变特性,可以分别自胶束溶液和乳状液中将MC14P-2Na转变成MC14P-Na而回收,平均回收率分别约为96.9%和95.1%,回收所得MC14P-Na通过与NaOH作用变成MC14P-2Na实现再利用。

    The aim of this study was to verify whether disodium monoalkyl phosphate was reversibly pH-responsive. In this work, monotetradecyl phosphate (MC14P) was synthesized by pyrophosphoric acid method, and then the disodium salt (MC14P-2Na) and monosodium salt (MC14P-Na) thereof were obtained by neutralizing MC14P with NaOH. The results showed that MC14P-2Na was a precipitation-dissolution switchable surfactant with good reversible pH response. At pH of 11.5, the Krafft temperature (KT) of MC14P-2Na was approximately 0.4 ℃, and the critical micelle concentration (cmc) was approximately 1.9×10-2 mol/L (at 25 ℃); at pH of 6.3, MC14P-2Na was changed into the poorly water-soluble MC14P-Na with a KT of approximately 47.9 ℃ and thus poor surface activity and interfacial activity; when pH was cycled between 11.5 and 6.3, corresponding cycles between MC14P-2Na and MC14P-Na were found, without abnormalities for at least 10 cycles. Based on the pH-dependent reversible change between MC14P-2Na and MC14P-Na, MC14P-2Na could be recovered from micellar solutions and emulsions by converting MC14P-2Na to MC14P-Na with average recovery rate of approximately 96.9% and 95.1%, respectively, and the MC14P-Na thus gathered could be converted back to MC14P-2Na by neutralizing with NaOH.

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    由双链表面活性剂和二氧化硅纳米颗粒协同稳定的非水乳状液及其性能
    Non-aqueous Pickering emulsions synergistically stabilized by double tailed surfactants and silica nanoparticles
    孙雨石,陈钊,崔正刚,裴晓梅,宋冰蕾
    2025 (10):  1252-1259.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.004
    摘要 ( 47 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(2468KB) ( 42 )  

    非水乳状液在化妆品、药物缓释以及功能纳米颗粒的制备等方面具有广泛的应用。然而,由于非水溶剂的极性比水弱,导致非水乳状液的稳定性较差。该实验以单头基双尾链型季铵盐表面活性剂(Di-C12DAB和Di-C16DAB)对亲水纳米颗粒SiO2进行原位疏水化改性,成功制备了稳定的正癸烷/甘油Pickering乳状液。相应乳状液在45 ℃下可以稳定6个月以上,且分散相的液滴大小无明显变化。Di-CnDAB对亲水SiO2的改性程度与Di-CnDAB的烷烃链长度以及浓度密切相关。接触角实验表明,Di-C12DAB在二氧化硅表面为单层吸附,甘油在二氧化硅表面的接触角随着Di-C12DAB浓度的增加而增大。而Di-C16DAB在浓度低于0.6 mmol/L时为单层吸附,在浓度高于0.6 mmol/L时为双层吸附,接触角随浓度的变化先增大后减小。以这种非水乳状液为模板,还可以制得粒径在2~3 μm的聚合物微球。这一工作有助于拓宽非水乳状液在药物包载、缓释、材料制备以及化妆品配方中的应用。

    Non-aqueous emulsions have a wide range of applications in cosmetics, drug-controlled release, and the preparation of functional nanoparticles. However, due to the weaker polarity of non-aqueous solvents, these emulsions often exhibit inferior stability compared to their aqueous counterparts. In this experiment, the properties of quaternary ammonium surfactants in glycerol were investigated through surface tension measurements, to further enhance the stability of n-decane/glycerol emulsions, hydrophilic nanoparticles SiO2 were modified in situ using double tailed quaternary ammonium surfactants Di-C12DAB and Di-C16DAB. Stable n-decane/glycerol Pickering emulsions were successfully prepared. These emulsions were stable at 45 ℃ for over six months, and no significant changes in droplet size occurred. The minimum droplet size of the emulsion was only 2-3 μm. Contact angle measurements showed that the wettability of the silica surface was tremendously affected by the concentration and the alkyl chain length of the double-tailed surfactants. In the presence of Di-C12DAB, the contact angle of glycerol on the silica surface increased monotonically with the surfactant concentration. This explains the phenomenon that the Pickering emulsions containing Di-C12DAB and silica particles were stable within the contact angle range of 80°-120°. Comparatively, the contact angle of the glycerol on the silica surface in the presence of Di-C16DAB first increased with surfactant concentrations and then decreased, reaching a maximum at 0.6 mmol/L. It can be concluded that Di-C12DAB formed monolayers at the surface of silica particles within all investigated concentrations. On the contrary, Di-C16DAB formed monolayers at concentrations below 0.6 mmol/L and formed double layers at concentrations above 0.6 mmol/L, leading to a non-monotonic change in the contact angle with respect to concentration. Using these stable non-aqueous Pickering emulsions as templates, polymer microspheres with a particle size of 2-3 μm were successfully prepared with high yield. This work is helpful to expand the potential applications of non-aqueous emulsions in the encapsulation of drug, controlled release, material preparation, and cosmetic formulations.

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    构建OMMT/HP-MIL-101高性能黄曲霉毒素B1吸附剂
    Construction of an OMMT/HP-MIL-101 adsorbent with high adsorption performance of AFB1
    洪沙沙,王鹏,李二冬,郭尚
    2025 (10):  1260-1267.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.005
    摘要 ( 41 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF(2007KB) ( 28 )  

    基于当前饲料中霉菌毒素严重污染的现状,该研究旨在开发构建高性能黄曲霉毒素B1 (AFB1)的吸附剂。以蒙脱石(MMT)为基础,首先利用有机改性合成了改性蒙脱石(OMMT),其次将其与金属有机骨架材料MIL-101复合,制备了OMMT/MIL-101,最后将OMMT/MIL-101在甲醇溶剂中刻蚀,合成了OMMT复合的多级孔MIL-101,即OMMT/HP-MIL-101。分别对OMMT、OMMT/MIL-101和OMMT/HP-MIL-101进行结构表征并测定了其对AFB1的吸附效果。结果表明:OMMT/HP-MIL-101对AFB1的最大吸附能力为17.35 µg/mg。通过Freundlich吸附模型拟合发现OMMT/HP-MIL-101对AFB1的吸附是多层吸附过程。OMMT增大的分子层间距、HP-MIL-101高的比表面积、丰富的孔结构、暴露的更多吸附位点,增强了与AFB1的结合力,可用于对AFB1的高效吸附。

    Mycotoxin is a toxic secondary metabolite and is widely detected in animal feed. Among them, aflatoxin B1 (AFB1) is the most noxious and common mycotoxin, and has caused serious biochemical and structural alterations in many organs mainly because their mutagenicity, teratogenicity and carcinogenicity. Therefore, it is an urgent to construct the high performance adsorbent for AFB1. Herein, we prepared the OMMT/HP-MIL-101 adsorbent using step-by-step modification. Firstly, the MMT was modified with cetyltrimethyl ammonium bromide (CTAB) to get OMMT. Compared with MMT, the interlayer spacing becomes bigger and exposes more adsorption sites, which can enhance the interaction between AFB1 and OMMT. Secondly, the OMMT was combined with MIL-101 with high specific surface area to form OMMT/MIL-101. The OMMT/MIL-101 exhibits the high specific surface area, which can provide the wide adsorption space for AFB1. Finally, the OMMT/HP-MIL-101 was fabricated by the treatment of methanol solvent at high temperature to obtain OMMT/HP-MIL-101. OMMT/HP-MIL-101 has higher specific surface area (1 147.71 m2/g), rich pore structure (micropore, mesopore and macropore), exposed more adsorption sites leading to the high adsorption capacity for AFB1 (17.35 µg/mg). In addition, the Freundlich isotherm is found to fit well in defining the adsorption performance of AFB1 on OMMT/HP-MIL-101, indicating a multi-layer adsorption process. This work displays that OMMT/HP-MIL-101 can serve as the powerful candidate for the adsorption of AFB1, and provides a theoretical basis for the construction of new porous adsorbents for AFB1.

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    特种表面活性剂对有机溶剂发泡性能的影响规律
    Effects of special surfactants on the foaming performance of organic foams
    孙博,刘笑春,吕宝文,刘辉,李振兴,燕永利
    2025 (10):  1268-1274.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.006
    摘要 ( 41 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF(2108KB) ( 35 )  

    研究了不同类型表面活性剂种类对不同极性有机溶剂发泡性能的影响规律。通过与常规表面活性剂乙氧基硬脂醇的溶液性能和发泡性能进行对比,特种表面活性剂在最大发泡体积和排液半衰期以及泡沫粒径分布三个方面表现出优良性能。研究表明:和添加C18E9相比,在甲酰胺中加入FC-170C使得最大泡沫含气率从77.7%上升至80.6%,半衰期从123 s上升至394 s;在乙酸乙酯中加入PDMS使得最大泡沫含气率从25.4%上升至30.6%,半衰期从53 s上升至55 s。在乙酸苄酯中加入DDAB改变了乙酸苄酯不发泡的现状,最大泡沫含气率为39.0%,半衰期为64 s。在甲苯中加入FC-170C改变了甲苯不发泡的现状,最大泡沫含气率为44.4%,半衰期为113 s。在癸烷中加入DDAB时,发泡性能最好,最大泡沫含气率为35.9%,半衰期为42 s。特种表面活性的发泡性能优于普通表面活性剂。强极性溶剂的发泡性能优于弱极性溶剂,添加同种表面活性剂,甲酰胺溶液产生的泡沫更稳定,发泡体积也更大。

    The effects of different types of surfactants on the foaming performance of organic solvents with different polarities were investigated. Compared with the solution and foaming performance of conventional surfactant stearyl alcohol ethoxylate, the special surfactants showed excellent performance in the aspects of maximum foam volume, drainage half-life and bubble size distribution. Compared with the addition of C18E9, the introduction of FC-170C into formamide raised the maximum foam air content from 77.7% to 80.6%, and extended the half-life from 123 s to 394 s. Similarly, the addition of PDMS to ethyl acetate raised the maximum foam air content from 25.4% to 30.6%, and increased the half-life from 53 s to 55 s. The introduction of DDAB altered the non-foaming status of benzyl acetate, achieving a maximum foam air content of 39.0% and a half-life of 64 s. The addition of FC-170C changed toluene from non-foaming to foaming, resulting in a maximum foam air content of 44.4% and a half-life of 113 s. The foaming performance was optimal upon the addition of DDAB to decane. The maximum air content of the foam reached 35.9%, with a half-life of 42 s. As to these organic solvents, the foaming performance of special surfactants generally surpassed that of regular surfactant. Solvents with strong polarity were more likely to produce stable foams, the foaming performance of strong polar solvents was superior to that of weak polar solvents. For the same surfactant added, compared with other solvents, the foam produced by formamide solution was more stable and the foam volume was also larger.

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    表皮葡萄球菌发酵液抗氧化性能的探究
    Studies on the antioxidant properties of Staphylococcus epidermidis fermentation broth
    耿文琳,李明,曹玉华
    2025 (10):  1275-1283.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.007
    摘要 ( 33 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF(1663KB) ( 36 )  

    采用表皮葡萄球菌,通过改变其碳源的添加制备了具有不同抗氧化活性的发酵液。在基础培养基、基础培养基中添加甘油或者葡萄糖得到三种表皮葡萄球菌发酵液,分别为SFB、Gly-SFB和Glu-SFB。通过细胞内ROS清除能力、SOD酶活性和MDA含量评估了三种发酵液的抗氧化活性。结果表明,Gly-SFB和Glu-SFB表现出比SFB更大的清除ROS的能力。随着浓度的增加,用SFB和Gly-SFB处理后的细胞内SOD酶活性也随之增加。然而,低浓度Glu-SFB处理后,细胞内SOD酶活性最大。在低浓度下,Gly-SFB和Glu-SFB处理后细胞内MDA含量较低,而在高浓度下,SFB处理后细胞内MDA浓度最低。采用蛋白免疫印迹法分析了表皮葡萄球菌发酵液发挥抗氧化作用的机理。得出表皮葡萄球菌发酵液介导了Nrf2-Keap1信号通路中相关蛋白的表达,从而发挥了抗氧化作用。添加甘油或葡萄糖进行表皮葡萄球菌发酵,增强了Gly-SFB和Glu-SFB的抗氧化活性。

    In this work, Staphylococcus epidermidisS. epidermidis) was used to prepare the fermentation broths with antioxidant activity. Through the optimization of the carbon source, three kinds of S. epidermidis fermentation broth were obtained and designated as SFB, Gly-SFB, and Glu-SFB, which were cultivated in beef protein medium and the beef protein medium supplemented with glycerol or glucose, respectively. The differences in antioxidant efficacy of SFB, Gly-SFB and Glu-SFB were investigated by evaluating intracellular ROS fluorescence intensity, SOD enzyme activity and MDA concentration. Gly-SFB and Glu-SFB exhibited a greater capacity to eliminate ROS as compared to that of SFB. The intracellular SOD enzyme activity increased as the concentrations of SFB and Gly-SFB increased. Nevertheless, the intracellular SOD enzyme activity was the highest after the treatment with Glu-SFB at the low concentrations. The intracellular MDA content reached a lower value after the treatment with Gly-SFB and Glu-SFB at lower concentrations, which was opposite to the case after the treatment with SFB. WB indicated that the S. epidermidis fermentation broth regulated the expression of relevant proteins in the Nrf2-Keap1 signaling pathway to exhibit the antioxidant effects. This indicates that the S. epidermidis fermentation broth promotes the expression of relevant proteins in the Nrf2-Keap1 signaling pathway, consequently, antioxidant benefits were exerted. The fermentation broth that were prepared by incorporating glycerol or glucose into the culture medium can augment their antioxidant activity.

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    开发与应用
    基于机器学习模型评估化妆品原料眼刺激性
    Assessment of eye irritation of cosmetic ingredients based on machine learning
    黄丽霞,刘梓乐,潘丙珍,鲍佳生,乔栖梧,周智明
    2025 (10):  1284-1290.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.008
    摘要 ( 51 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(1084KB) ( 39 )  

    为提升基于计算机模拟的化妆品原料眼刺激性替代试验评估方法的预测效果,文章提出一种结合集成学习算法与相似度算法的机器学习融合模型。研究通过收集84种化妆品原料的荧光素漏出试验、中性红摄取试验等六种体外替代试验及体内试验数据,验证了融合模型的预测评估性能,且最终验证结果表明模型预测评估准确率达100%。此外,为提高机器学习融合模型在化妆品原料评估实际应用中的便捷性、高效性和可解释性,文章进一步提出基于融合模型的分层组合体外替代试验评估方法。该方法包括通过计算机模拟生成的预测评估速查表和基于试验数据分析得出的分层组合评估策略,二者协同配合,结合分层组合评估策略的体外试验结果,可快速预测化妆品原料的眼刺激性。

    To enhance the predictive performance of computer simulation-based alternative test methods for assessing the eye irritation potential of cosmetic ingredients, this study proposes a machine learning hybrid model that combines ensemble learning algorithms with similarity algorithms. The research collected data from six in vitro alternative test results, such as the fluorescein leakage test and neutral red uptake test, for 84 cosmetic ingredients, as well as data from in vivo test results. The predictive assessment effectiveness of the machine learning hybrid model was validated based on the collected test result data. The final experimental results indicate that the proposed machine learning hybrid model performs well in predicting the irritancy of cosmetic ingredients based on in vitro alternative test result data, with a predictive assessment accuracy rate of 100% in the validation experiment results. Furthermore, to improve the convenience, efficiency, and interpretability of the machine learning hybrid model in practical use, this study further proposes a method for evaluating the eye irritation potential of cosmetic ingredients based on a stratified combination of in vitro alternative tests, which is based on the hybrid model. This method includes a quick reference guide for predictive evaluation generated through computer simulation and a hierarchical combination evaluation strategy derived from experimental data analysis. By integrating the results of in vitro tests conducted under this tiered strategy, it enables the rapid prediction of eye irritation potential of cosmetic ingredients.

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    荔枝草提取物抗氧化及抗炎活性研究
    Study on the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of extracts from Salvia plebeia R. Br.
    曹贤贤,袁永雷,王飞飞
    2025 (10):  1291-1298.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.009
    摘要 ( 49 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(2750KB) ( 46 )  

    为了获得荔枝草中潜在的抗氧化和抗炎活性的功效成分,以总黄酮和总酚酸含量为导向,筛选最佳大孔树脂洗脱工艺,制备得到荔枝草提取物。使用DPPH自由基清除实验和ABTS总抗氧能力实验评估荔枝草提取物的抗氧化功效;使用UVB诱导的HaCaT细胞模型和2, 4-二硝基氟苯(DNFB)诱导的皮炎小鼠模型,探究荔枝草提取物的抗炎功效。结果表明,荔枝草提取物中总黄酮含量为36.42%±0.45%,总酚酸含量为21.32%±0.82%;DPPH和ABTS半数抑制的质量浓度分别为(49.09±0.10) μg/mL和(84.54±0.99) μg/mL;在HaCaT细胞模型上,荔枝草提取物可显著抑制细胞炎症因子IL-6,IL-1α和TNF-α的分泌量;在皮炎小鼠模型上,荔枝草提取物可有效缓解耳部皮肤红肿、溃烂,显著减少炎症细胞数量,减少肥大细胞脱颗粒,降低血清中IFN-γ,IL-4,IL-5,IgE,IL-17等因子的表达量,降低胸腺系数和脾脏系数。

    In order to obtain the active components of Salvia plebeia R. Br. for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity, the macroporous resin elution process was selected based on the content of total flavonoids and phenolic acid. The antioxidant activity of Salvia plebeia R. Br. extracts (SE) was detected by DPPH free radical scavenging method and ABTS total antioxidant capacity method. UVB-induced human skin immortalized keratinocytes and mouse dermatitis model constructed with 2, 4-dinitrofluorobenzene (DNFB) solution were used to test the anti-inflammatory effect of SE. The total flavonoids content of SE is 36.42%±0.45% and the total phenolic acid content is 21.32%±0.82%. The half maximal inhibitory mass concentrations of DPPH and ABTS are (49.09±0.10) μg/mL and (84.54±0.99) μg/mL, respectively. In vitro, SE can inhibit the secretion of IL-6, IL-1α and TNF-α in human immortalized keratinocytes. In vivo, SE can effectively relieve ear skin redness and swelling, and reduce the number of inflammatory cells and mast cells degranulation, as well as has significant inhibitory effects on the secretion of IFN-γ, IL-4, IL-5, IgE, and IL-17 in mice. In addition, SE can reduce the thymus index and spleen index in mice. This study proves that SE has excellent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, which can provide a basis for high value utilization of SE in the field of daily chemicals.

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    多维度综合评估表观毛孔状态:建立基于探索性因子分析的分级体系
    Multi-dimensional comprehensive assessment of apparent pore state: establishing a hierarchical system based on exploratory factor analysis
    傅齐天,魏滢,林晓纯,叶迎,郭立群,盘瑶
    2025 (10):  1299-1305.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.010
    摘要 ( 42 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF(1260KB) ( 35 )  

    构建多维度表观毛孔分级体系与客观分级图谱。选择120名受毛孔问题困扰受试者,采用VISIA-CR测试仪和Sebumeter SM 815测量仪收集数据,并利用自建的2D图像处理算法进行图像分析,通过因子分析方法建立表观毛孔指数评价算法模型,同时建立分级图谱,并对该评估体系进行验证。使用油脂含量、毛孔周围皮肤颜色(L*值、a*值、b*值)、毛孔尺寸(毛孔个数、毛孔面积、毛孔面积占比和毛孔直径)等指标建模,得到公式:表观毛孔指数=0.546*毛孔尺寸因子+0.296*毛孔颜色因子+0.157*油脂因子。构建了一个将毛孔分为轻、中、重3个等级的分级图谱,随着等级升高模型得分升高。经验证,Kappa系数为0.72(p<0.01),说明两种方法具有高度一致性,表明模型和分级图谱的准确性和可靠性较高。本研究建立了客观量化的数学模型和直观的图谱用于判定表观毛孔等级,为毛孔问题的精准评估及后续护理产品的开发提供了科学依据。

    In the pursuit of tight and delicate skin, the problem of skin pores has attracted wide attention. Before that, few studies combined pore size, oil content and pore skin color for enlarged pore assessment. The aim of this study was to establish a new apparent pore classification system and a comprehensive and objective pore classification atlas. The researchers collected data from 120 healthy Chinese subjects using the VISIA-CR face imaging tester and the Sebumeter SM 815 skin oil content measuring instrument. Then, the self-built two-dimensional image processing algorithm was used for image analysis, and the pore index evaluation algorithm model was established by exploratory factor analysis. At the same time, the classification atlas was established, and the accuracy of the evaluation system was verified. As a result, the research team established a mathematical model using indicators such as oil content, skin color around pores (L* value, a* value, and b* value), and pore size (number of pores, pore area, pore area proportion and pore diameter), and obtained the calculation formula: Apparent pore index=0.546* pore size factor+0.296* pore color factor+0.157* oil factor. And they build an intuitive pore grading criteria, which divided pores into mild, moderate and severe 3 grades, with the model score increasing as the grade increased. After verification, the Kappa coefficient is 0.72 (p<0.01), indicating that the two methods were highly consistent, which proves that the established model and classification diagram are accurate. This study established an intuitive and quantitative map and a model for determining pore grade, and provided a scientific basis for the accurate evaluation of pore problems and the development of follow-up care products. The study can also be used in market development and consumer market research.

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    迷迭香活性成分异迷迭香酚的美白作用及抗氧化活性评价
    Evaluation of the whitening effect and antioxidant activity of isorosmanol, an active ingredient of Rosmarinus officinalis L.
    郭庆宇,曹丹,陈冬
    2025 (10):  1306-1312.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.011
    摘要 ( 41 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1661KB) ( 43 )  

    本研究旨在评价迷迭香活性成分异迷迭香酚(isorosmanol)的美白作用及抗氧化活性。以紫外线B(UVB)诱导的皮肤光老化(SP)小鼠模型作为研究对象,对小鼠进行经皮应用3个剂量(1,2,4 mg/cm2)的异迷迭香酚。治疗8周后,与UVB组比较,L-isorosmanol组、M-isorosmanol组和H-isorosmanol组的表皮含水量升高表皮和真皮形态明显好转,MMP-1 mRNA水平降低,COL1A1 mRNA水平升高,黑色素含量、酪氨酸酶活性、TRP-1和TRP-2 mRNA相对水平降低,α-MSH和MC1R蛋白相对水平降低,SOD、CAT和GSH-Px活性升高,MDA含量降低,Nrf2(细胞核)蛋白相对水平升高,Keap1蛋白相对水平降低(P<0.05)。总之,在UVB诱导的SP小鼠中,异迷迭香酚通过抑制α-MSH/MC1R信号通路发挥美白作用,通过激活Nrf2/Keap1信号通路发挥抗氧化活性。

    This study aimed to evaluate the whitening effect and antioxidant activity of isorosmanol, an active ingredient of Rosmarinus officinalis L.. The ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin photoaging (SP) mouse model was used as the research object, and then three doses (1, 2, and 4 mg/cm2) of isorosmanol were transdermally applied to the mice. After 8 weeks of treatment, compared with the UVB group, the epidermal water content in the L-isorosmanol group, the M-isorosmanol group, and the H-isorosmanol group increases the epidermal and dermal morphology improve significantly, the MMP-1 mRNA level decreases, the COL1A1 mRNA level increases, the melanin content, tyrosinase activity, TRP-1 and TRP-2 mRNA relative levels decrease, the α-MSH and MC1R protein relative levels decrease, the SOD, CAT, and GSH-Px activities increase, the MDA content decreases, the Nrf2 (nucleus) protein relative level increases, and the Keap1 protein relative level decreases (P<0.05). In conclusion, in UVB-induced SP mice, isorosmanol exerts a whitening effect by inhibiting the α-MSH/MC1R signaling pathway and exerts antioxidant activity by activating the Nrf2/Keap1 signaling pathway.

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    覆盆子酮的祛痘功效及其作用机制研究
    Raspberry ketone treats acne vulgaris by suppressing sebum and inflammation
    张太军,陈海琪,尹捷醇,康丽,李柔柔,邓茹钰
    2025 (10):  1313-1322.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.012
    摘要 ( 44 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(2652KB) ( 37 )  

    建立了油脂合成与炎症模型,在体外细胞层面上来评估覆盆子酮(Raspberry Ketone,RK)在控油与舒缓肌肤方面的效果,进一步开展了关于RK在控油、舒缓及祛痘方面的人体功效试验。结果显示:低剂量组4 μg/mL和高剂量组40 μg/mL的RK均可显著减少中性和极性油脂的合成。4 μg/mL的RK未能抑制IL-6和NO的分泌,而40 μg/mL的RK可显著抑制IL-6和NO的表达,抑制率分别为39.5%和20.7%,且与100 μg/mL地塞米松磷酸钠相比,RK在该质量浓度下对NO分泌的抑制效果无显著性差异。符合筛选标准的志愿者在连续使用含0.5% RK的膏霜样品14天后,皮肤均无不良反应,且油脂和卟啉含量分别减少了23.0%和22.5%;乳酸刺痛评分值、血红素EI值、红区a*值和红区面积分别减少了48.8%,6.1%,11.3%和41.8%;粉刺、丘疹和脓疱的皮损消退率分别为33.8%,41.8%和57.1%;痤疮的高度和体积分别减少了46.2%和63.2%。本研究表明覆盆子酮具有控油、舒缓和祛痘功效。

    Raspberry ketone (RK), a common ingredient in cosmetics, possesses antioxidant, preservative, and skin-whitening properties. However, the action mechanism of RK in the treatment of acne remains unclear. Therefore, the study evaluated the sebum-controlling and soothing efficacy of RK by establishing celluar models of lipid synthesis and inflammation in vitro. Additionally, a human efficacy testing on the acne-alleviating effects of RK was conducted. The results indicate that both low-dose (4 μg/mL) and high-dose (40 μg/mL) RK significantly decrease the synthesis of neutral and polar lipids. While the low concentration of RK at 4 μg/mL does not inhibit the secretion of interleukin-6 (IL-6) and nitric oxide (NO), the high concentration of 40 μg/mL significantly inhibits their expression with the inhibition rates of 39.5% and 20.7%, respectively. Additionally, compared with 100 μg/mL dexamethasone sodium phosphate (positive control group), RK at this concentration shows no significant difference in its inhibitory effect on NO secretion. In a trial involving volunteers who meet the inclusion criteria, after consecutively using cream samples containing 0.5% RK for 14 days, all participants report no adverse skin reactions. Notably, their sebum and porphyrin contents decrease by 23.0% and 22.5%, respectively. Furthermore, the lactic acid sting score, erythema index (EI) value, a* value in the red area, and red area size decrease by 48.8%, 6.1%, 11.3%, and 41.8%, respectively. The lesion regression rates for comedones, papules, and pustules are also reconfirmed at 33.8%, 41.8%, and 57.1%, respectively. Additionally, the height and volume of acne lesions decrease by 46.2% and 63.2%, respectively. The study demonstrates that RK exhibits sebum-controlling, soothing, and acne-reducing properties.

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    专论与综述
    化妆品中新污染物的研究现状及展望
    Research status and prospect of new pollutants in cosmetics
    付林瑞,王海燕,路勇
    2025 (10):  1323-1332.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.013
    摘要 ( 57 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1015KB) ( 38 )  

    化妆品中新污染物的检出给我国化妆品安全保障带来了全新挑战,亟待应对和解决。目前,大部分研究都是从生态层面对新污染物进行风险分析,很少有研究专门评估化妆品中新污染物的相关风险。该综述通过出台的国内外法律法规和各种已公开数据,揭示新污染物于化妆品危害的现状。在此基础上,提出四个方面的建议:一是建立新污染物风险评价体系;二是加强顶层设计,完善评估检测系统;三是增强科学技术支撑;四是绿色产品及替代成分创新。有望突破对化妆品中已知风险物质的靶向分析和未知风险物质的非靶向筛查,前瞻性识别出化妆品中需优先关注的新污染物,最大程度保障化妆品安全,为公众健康保驾护航。

    The detection of new pollutants in cosmetics has brought new challenges to the safety of cosmetics in China, which needs to be dealt with and solved urgently. At present, most of the studies are risk analysis of new pollutants from the ecological level, and few studies have specifically assessed the risks associated with new pollutants in cosmetics. In order to fill this gap, the health risks of residual new pollutants in cosmetics are qualitatively analyzed. This review reveals the current status of new pollutants in cosmetics hazards through the introduction of domestic and foreign laws and regulations and various published data, and summarizes the pre-treatment process and related instrumental analysis results of new pollutant screening in cosmetics. On this basis, four suggestions are put forward: the first is to enrich the risk assessment system; the second is to strengthen the top-level design and improve the evaluation and detection system; the third is to enhance scientific and technological support; fourthly, the innovative application of green products and alternative components is promoted. It is expected to enable breakthroughs in the targeted analysis of known risk substances and the non-targeted screening of unknown risk substances in cosmetics. Thereby, prospectively identify priority emerging contaminants, provide data support for promoting the safety risk assessment of cosmetics, and constantly improve the risk screening methods of cosmetics. It ensures the safety of cosmetics to the greatest extent and escort public health.

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    女性审美心理与化妆品包装设计的融合研究
    Research on the integration of women’s aesthetic psychology and cosmetics packaging design
    王新征,刘燕
    2025 (10):  1333-1343.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.014
    摘要 ( 36 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF(3618KB) ( 230 )  

    随着化妆品市场的日益繁荣,女性作为核心消费群体,其审美心理对化妆品包装设计的影响愈发显著。文章首先分析了女性消费者的审美心理特征,并基于对形式美学、色彩美学、材质美学、符号美学等美学原理的理解,提出应从视觉、触觉、结构、功能等多维度对化妆品包装设计的审美美学要素进行协同。基于此,建立了女性审美心理与化妆品包装设计之间的联系,明确了两者之间的相互作用关系;并通过对护肤品包装设计案例的分析,指出当前化妆品包装设计中存在功能与美学失衡、情感链接断层、同质化严重、交互设计滞后等问题。最后,从女性审美心理角度提出针对性的化妆品包装设计的优化策略。旨在为化妆品包装设计提供理论指导和实践参考,促进设计创新,提升产品市场竞争力。

    With the increasing prosperity of the cosmetics market, women, as the core consumer group, have a more significant impact on the aesthetic psychology of cosmetics packaging design. This article first analyzes the aesthetic psychological characteristics of female consumers. Based on the understanding of aesthetic principles such as formal aesthetics, color aesthetics, material aesthetics, and symbolic aesthetics, it is proposed that the aesthetic elements of cosmetic packaging design should be coordinated from multiple dimensions such as visual, tactile, structural, and functional aspects. Based on this, the relationship between women’s aesthetic psychology and cosmetic packaging design has been established, and the interaction between the two has been clarified. And through the analysis of skincare packaging design cases, it is pointed out that there are problems in the current cosmetics packaging design, such as functional and aesthetic imbalance, emotional link discontinuity, serious homogenization, and lagging interaction design. Finally, this article proposes targeted optimization strategies for cosmetic packaging design from the perspective of female aesthetic psychology. It is intended to provide theoretical guidance and practical reference for cosmetic packaging design, promote design innovation, and enhance product market competitiveness.

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    分析与检测
    一测多评法测定淋洗类化妆品中23种防腐剂的含量
    Determination of 23 preservatives in rinse-off cosmetics with quantitative analysis of multi-components by single marker
    吴志珊,姜成君,尹伟成,王彦超,吴姣娇,殷帅,潘小红
    2025 (10):  1344-1351.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.015
    摘要 ( 40 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF(1175KB) ( 35 )  

    为了准确高效地检测淋洗类化妆中防腐剂的添加量,建立了一测多评法测定淋洗类化妆品中23种防腐剂含量的高效液相色谱方法。采用50%甲醇水溶液处理淋洗类样品,梯度洗脱,在C18色谱柱上分离检测23种防腐剂,选取4-羟基苯甲酸甲酯为内部参照物,建立其他22种防腐剂的相对保留时间和相对校正因子,计算各组分的含量。分析结果表明,在该实验条件下23种防腐剂各组分在一定质量浓度范围内呈现良好线性关系,相关系数(r2)均大于0.999,检出限(LOD)为0.033~4.0 μg/g,溶液在7天之内保持相对稳定,各组分的RSD结果在1.6%~2.7%。一测多评法与外标法测定结果一致性良好,相对平均偏差在0.21%~4.9%之间,因此该方法可以用于淋洗类化妆品中23种防腐剂的测定和质量控制。

    A quantitative analysis of multi-components by single marker (QAMS) method for the determination of 23 preservatives in rinse-off cosmetics was established. Samples were extracted with 50% methanol aqueous solution, and 23 preservatives were separated and detected on a C18 column by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with gradient elution. 4-Hydroxybenzoic acid methyl ester was selected as the internal reference substance. The relative time and the relative correction factors of the other 22 kinds of preservatives were established to calculate the content of each component. The results show that the 22 kinds of preservatives have good linear relationships within a certain mass concentration range, and the correlation coefficients (r2) are all greater than 0.999. The limits of detection (LOD) are in the range of 0.033-4.0 μg/g. The solutions remain relatively stable within 7 days. The results of the relative standard deviation (RSD) of each component are between 1.6% and 2.7%. The quantitative analysis of multi-components by a single-marker (QAMS) method and the external standard method have good consistency in the measurement results, and the relative average deviations are between 0.21% and 4.9%. Therefore, this method can be used for the determination and quality control of 23 preservatives in rinse-off cosmetics.

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    染发产品中14种禁用成分的高效液相色谱法测定及质谱确证
    Determination of 14 prohibited ingredients in hair dye products by HPLC and verification by LC-MS/MS
    左雪,杨玲,于睿鹏,邸铮,张华珺
    2025 (10):  1352-1360.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2025.10.016
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    建立了染发产品中14种禁用成分的高效液相色谱测定方法及液相色谱-串联质谱确证方法。染发产品经亚硫酸氢钠水溶液和乙醇的混合溶液超声提取后,以乙腈-20 mmol/L乙酸铵水溶液为流动相,在TechMate AQUA-STIII (4.6 mm×250 mm,5 µm)色谱柱上进行梯度洗脱,采用二极管阵列检测器进行分析,检测波长为240,290和616 nm,外标法定量。阳性样品采用液相色谱-串联质谱法进行进一步确证。14种禁用成分线性关系良好,相关系数(r)均大于0.999。14种成分的方法检出限为2.4~52 mg/kg,定量限为10~207 mg/kg。在2个不同含量水平下,各成分的精密度和48 h内稳定性良好,峰面积RSD均小于5%。在乳膏和液体类基质中,各成分在4个不同含量添加水平下的平均回收率为89.4%~112.8%,RSD值为0.4%~4.6%。在该实验条件下,14种禁用成分的检测不受染发产品中常用准用染发剂的干扰。

    A method for the determination of 14 prohibited ingredients in hair dye products by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) was developed. The hair dye product was ultrasonically extracted in mixed solvent of aqueous sodium bisulfite solution and ethanol. The mobile phase for HPLC determination was acetonitrile and 20 mmol/L ammonium acetate. Chromatographic separation was carried out on a TechMate AQUA-STIII column (4.6 mm×250 mm, 5 µm) by isocratic elution. The detection wavelengths of the diode array detector were 240, 290 and 616 nm. Quantification was performed by external standard method. Further verification for positive sample was performed by LC-MS/MS. The 14 prohibited ingredients have good linearities, with the correlation coefficients (r) higher than 0.999. The limits of detection (LODs) of the 14 ingredients are from 2.4 mg/kg to 52 mg/kg, and the limits of quantification (LOQs) are from 10 mg/kg to 207 mg/kg. At two different content levels, the precision and stability within 48 hours of each target ingredient is good, with the relative standard deviation (RSD) less than 5%. The average spiked recoveries at four levels in both cream and liquid substrates are from 89.4% to 112.8%, with the RSDs from 0.4% to 4.6%. Under the conditions of this experiment, the detection of 14 prohibited ingredients is not affected by the interference of frequently-used permitted dyes in hair dye products.

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