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    2024年, 第54卷, 第6期 刊出日期:2024-06-22 上一期    下一期
    基础检查
    金属离子Mn2+α-烯烃磺酸钠/月桂酰胺丙基羟磺基甜菜碱蠕虫状胶束形成的调控作用研究
    Study on the regulatory effect of Mn2+ ions on the formation of worm-like micelles of α-olefin sulfonate/lauramidopropyl hydroxysulfobetaine
    储鹏举, 余晓玲, 侯克期, 王文慧, 李隆杰, 葛际江
    2024 (6):  621-629.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.001
    摘要 ( 1371 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(6757KB) ( 55 )  

    Mn2+可诱导阴离子表面活性剂α-烯烃磺酸钠(AOS)与两性离子表面活性剂月桂酰胺丙基羟磺基甜菜碱(LHSB)的混合物形成蠕虫状胶束。在表面活性剂质量分数1%~5%范围内,研究了AOS与LHSB质量比、Mn2+质量分数、表面活性剂质量分数及温度对蠕虫状胶束黏弹性的影响。结果表明,随着AOS与LHSB质量比从1:9变为9:1以及Mn2+质量分数的增加,表面活性剂溶液黏度先增大后减小。体系的零剪切黏度随表面活性剂质量分数指数增加。常温下研究了表面活性剂黏度的变化规律,测得AOS与LHSB质量比为3:7时体系黏度最大,且当表面活性剂质量分数为2%时的最佳Mn2+含量为0.5%,此时零剪切黏度为9 030.9 mPa·s。用冷冻透射电镜(cryo-TEM)观察胶束形态,发现此时溶液中蠕虫状胶束较长,网络结构紧密,呈现出良好的线性黏弹性。表面活性剂质量分数、Mn2+质量分数对蠕虫状胶束的形成有较大影响。

    The worm-like micelles formed by the mixture of an anionic surfactant (sodium α-olefin sulfonate, AOS) and a zwitterionic surfactant (lauramidopropyl hydroxysulfobetaine, LHSB) as induced by Mn2+ ions were studied. The influencing factors studied included the mass ratio between the two surfactants, the mass fraction of Mn2+, the mass fraction of surfactants, and the temperature. The results showed that, the viscosity of the surfactant solution first increased and then decreased as the mass ratio of AOS:LHSB was increased and the mass fraction of Mn2+ was increased. The zero-shear viscosity of the system exhibited an exponential increase with increasing mass fraction of surfactants. The viscosity measurement was conducted at 25 ℃. The maximum viscosity was obtained when the mass ratio of AOS:LHSB was 3:7, and the optimal Mn2+ content was 0.5% when the mass fraction of surfactants was 2% (the zero-shear viscosity at this optimal condition was measured to be 9 030.9 mPa·s). The morphology of the micelles in solution was observed using Cryo-TEM, revealing long worm-like micelles with a tight network structure and good linear viscoelasticity. The mass fraction of surfactants and the presence of Mn2+were found to have significant influence on the formation of worm-like micelles. This study could provide important additional information for the preparation of worm-like micelles using mixed anionic-zwitterionic surfactant system.

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    油相对水相泡沫形成和稳定性的影响
    Effects of oil on the formation and stability of aqueous foam
    白凡, 燕永利, 刘江波, 严阿勇, 贺炳成
    2024 (6):  630-639.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.002
    摘要 ( 1232 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(8636KB) ( 66 )  

    油水混相泡沫在日用化妆品、化学工业、石油工业等领域有着广泛的应用,但是目前关于油水混相泡沫的报道多集中在探究表面活性剂、温度、pH、矿化度等外界因素对油水混相泡沫的稳定性的影响,对于油相种类和油相含量对水相泡沫的形成和稳定性影响机制缺乏系统研究。文章通过改变油相种类、油水体积比进行发泡实验,最后通过分析各泡沫体积、泡沫排液半衰期、泡沫的衰变速率、泡沫的微观粒径、油相的表面张力和油水界面张力来探究油相对水相泡沫的形成和稳定性影响机制。研究发现:随着油相碳链长度的增加水相泡沫的起泡性能下降;同时随着油相的表面张力增大,泡沫稳定性提高;油水体积比对水相泡沫的形成和稳定性有着重要的影响,在低油水体积比时,泡沫壁之间排列紧密,形成了大小不一的泡沫,且由于泡沫之间相互挤压,使其微观结构形貌杂乱无规则;随着油水体积比的升高泡沫粒径整体上变小,且大小变得越来越均匀,泡沫结构变得更加致密,使得泡沫更加稳定。

    Oil-water miscible foams have been widely used in daily cosmetics, chemical industry, petroleum industry, etc., but the current reports on oil-water miscible foams mostly focus on the influences of external factors such as surfactants, temperature, pH and salinity on the stability of oil-water miscible foams. The effects of oil type and oil content on the formation and stability of aqueous foams have not been systematically studied. In this work, foaming experiments were conducted by changing the oil type and oil-water volume ratio. The formation and stability mechanisms of aqueous foam influencing by oil were explored by analyzing the foam volume, the half-life of foam drainage, the decay rate of foam, the microscopic particle size of foam, the surface tension of oil phase and the oil-water interfacial tension. The results were as follows: with the increase of carbon chain length of oil, the foaming property of aqueous foam was decreased; the foam stability increased with the increase of surface tension of oil; the oil-water volume ratio had important influence on the formation and stability of aqueous foam. At low oil-water volume ratio, foam lamellas were arranged closely, forming bubbles of different size. Moreover, due to the mutual extrusion between the bubbles, the microstructure morphology was chaotic and irregular. With the increase of oil-water volume ratio, the foam particle size became smaller and more uniform, and the foam structure became denser, making the foam more stable.

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    脂肪胺窄分布乙氧基化物的合成及其性能研究
    Synthesis and properties of narrow-distribution ethoxylate of aliphatic amine
    郎钰, 耿涛, 周婧洁, 孙晋源, 梁慧斌, 王春雨
    2024 (6):  640-647.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.003
    摘要 ( 1149 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(6112KB) ( 30 )  

    采用催化剂KOH、SnCl4、实验室自制弱碱性非均相催化剂(NHGC)催化十二脂肪胺与环氧乙烷的乙氧基化反应,合成了加合数为5的十二胺聚氧乙烯醚(DAEO5)。根据文献报道,催化剂的种类会直接影响产物的分子量分布。因此通过分析不同催化体系制备的DAEO5,并对其分子量分布宽窄、表面活性剂溶液的表面张力、理化性质和应用性能进行了研究。研究结果表明,与传统的乙氧基化催化剂相比,NHGC制备的DAEO5具有较窄的低聚物分布和较低的游离胺含量,且产品的黏度和水溶液的浊点较其他产品都较高。利用不同催化体系合成的DAEO5的∆Gmic和∆Gmic均小于0,表明DAEO5能在水中自发形成胶束和吸附层。NHGC合成产品的润湿性和乳化性能较好,其润湿时间远低于用KOH和SnCl4作为催化剂合成的产品。不同催化剂合成产品去污能力相差不大,但是不同催化体系合成的相同EO加合数的DAEO对于炭黑污布的去污能力比对皮脂污布的去污能力强。

    Dodecylamine polyoxyethylene ether (DAEO5) was synthesized by ethoxylation of dodecyl amine with ethylene oxide (EO) using catalysts KOH, SnCl4, and a weakly basic heterogeneous catalyst (NHGC) made by our laboratory. The total EO number in the molecular structure of DAEO5 was 5. According to the literature, the type of catalysts directly affects the molecular weight distribution of the product. Therefore, those DAEO5 products prepared with different catalytic systems were analyzed, as well as their molecular weight distribution, surface tension of aqueous solutions, physicochemical properties, and application performance. The results showed that, the DAEO5 prepared with NHGC had narrower distribution and lower content of free amine than those prepared with conventional catalysts of ethoxylation, and its viscosity and cloud point in aqueous solution were higher than those of other products. The ∆Gmic and ∆Gmic of DAEO5 synthesized using different catalytic systems were all negative, indicating that DAEO5 could spontaneously form micelles and adsorption layer in water. The wetting and emulsifying properties of the product synthesized with NHGC were better, and its wetting time was much shorter than those products synthesized using KOH and SnCl4 as catalysts. The detergency of products synthesized with different catalysts did not differ much, but their detergency was different for carbon black stained cloth and sebum stained cloth, which was significantly better for carbon black stained cloth than for sebum stained cloth.

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    开发与应用
    全氟辛酸对成骨细胞骨形成和破骨细胞骨吸收作用研究
    Effects of PFOA on osteoblastic bone formation and osteoclastic bone resorption
    薛黎明, 林元杰, 金玉娥, 徐佳乐, 卢大胜, 汪国权
    2024 (6):  648-655.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.004
    摘要 ( 1046 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(5993KB) ( 37 )  

    考察全氟辛酸(PFOA)对成骨细胞骨形成和破骨细胞骨吸收的作用和机制,为探索PFOA暴露引起骨丢失提供科学依据。采用原代新生大鼠颅盖骨分离成骨细胞,考察1,10和100 μmol/L PFOA对成骨细胞增殖,碱性磷酸酶(ALP)活性和骨结节形成的影响;采用巨噬细胞集落刺激因子(M-CSF)及核因子κB受体激活因子配体(RANKL)诱导大鼠骨髓单核细胞分化破骨细胞模型,考察1,10和100 μmol/L PFOA对破骨细胞活力,抗酒石酸酸性磷酸酶(TRAP)活性和骨吸收陷窝形成指标的影响;采用Western blot考察成骨细胞护骨素(OPG)和RANKL蛋白表达。PFOA在1和10 μmol/L时促进成骨细胞活力,但对ALP活性和骨结节形成无影响。100 μmol/L PFOA可显著抑制细胞增殖,ALP活性和骨结节形成,同时抑制OPG/RANKL蛋白表达的比例。PFOA对破骨细胞活力无影响,10和100 μmol/L PFOA可显著抑制促进TRAP活性和骨吸收陷窝形成面积。PFOA抑制成骨细胞骨形成作用可能通过下调Wnt通路,通过抑制OPG/RANKL/RANK通路,促进破骨细胞骨吸收作用。

    Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) exposure level in human is negatively correlated with bone density according to the epidemiological research. Our study is aim to investigate the effects and mechanisms of PFOA on osteoblastic bone formation and osteoclastic bone resorption. Primary osteoblasts were isolated from the calvaria of newborn rats, and the cell proliferation, alkaline phosphatase (ALP) activity, and bone nodule formation were detected after 1, 10, and 100 μmol/L PFOA treateatment for 24 h.The osteoclasts model were differentiation from bone marrow monocyte, which induced by Macrophage colony-stimulating factor (M-CSF) and Nuclear factor κB receptor-activating factor ligand (RANKL), and the effects on cell viability, anti-tartaric acid phosphatase (TRAP) activity, and bone resorption pit formation were investigated. The expression of OPG and RANKL proteins in osteoblasts were conducted by Western blot. The results show that PFOA at the concentration of 1 μmol/L and 10 μmol/L can promote osteoblast proliferation, but has no effect on ALP activity and bone nodule formation. 100 μmol/L PFOA can significantly inhibit cell proliferation, ALP activity, and bone nodule formation, as well as the proportion of OPG/RANKL protein expression. PFOA has no effect on osteoclast viability, and 10 μmol/L and 100 μmol/L PFOA can significantly inhibit the TRAP activity and the area of bone resorption pits. The conclusion can be draw that high concentration of PFOA can inhibit the bone formation of osteoblasts by suppressing WNT pathway and promote osteoclast bone resorption by inhibiting the OPG/RANKL/RANK pathway.

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    金线莲发酵液的抗氧化和美白功效研究
    Study on antioxidant and whitening effects of Anoectochilus roxburghii fermentation broth
    陈来成, 陈冬杰, 邹洁, 丁红, 叶宇鹏, 杨占红
    2024 (6):  656-662.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.005
    摘要 ( 117 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF(5226KB) ( 73 )  

    为开发金线莲发酵提取物在化妆品领域的应用,筛选合适的乳酸菌与酵母菌,对金线莲水提液与水提后滤渣酶解液分别进行发酵,结果表明:在采用Gb-12、Mls-34与CC-1三种菌株进行不同的单菌、复合菌发酵方式中,金线莲水提液经Mls-34与CC-1联合发酵后,其多酚含量、抗氧化活性与美白活性提升最高。金线莲酶解液经CC-1单菌发酵后,其多酚含量提升最高,DPPH自由基与ABTS自由基清除率分别提高了56.30%和85.58%,而羟自由基清除率和总还原力有所下降,而金线莲酶解液经Mls-34与CC-1联合发酵后,其美白活性提升最高。

    In order to develop the application of fermented extract of Anoectochilus roxburghiiA.roxburghii) in the field of cosmetics and screen suitable lactic acid bacteria and yeast, the water extract of A.roxburghii and the enzymatic hydrolysate of the filter residue after water extraction were fermented respectively. The results show that in the different single and compound fermentation methods using Gb-12, Mls-34 and CC-1 strains, the polyphenol content, antioxidant activity and whitening activity of the water extract of A.roxburghii are the highest after the combined fermentation of Mls-34 and CC-1. After the enzymatic hydrolysate of A.roxburghii is fermented by CC-1, the polyphenol content increases the most, and the DPPH free radical and ABTS free radical scavenging rates increase by 56.30% and 85.58%, respectively, while the hydroxyl radical scavenging rate and total reducing power decrease. After the enzymatic hydrolysate of A.roxburghii is fermented by Mls-34 and CC-1, its whitening activity increases the most.

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    一种长效抑菌洗衣液的配方设计与性能研究
    Formula design and performance study of a long-term antibacterial laundry detergent
    张明轩, 许佩佩, 随东辉
    2024 (6):  663-668.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.006
    摘要 ( 80 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(3605KB) ( 54 )  

    通过对添加了不同杀菌成分洗涤剂的长效抑菌和去污效果进行测试对比,获得了一种具有长效抑菌效果的洗衣液。根据团体标准T/ZGXX0004—2022《日化产品长效抑菌效果的评价方法》,对6种洗衣液的长效抑菌效果进行了测试。试验结果表明,在本标准和设计的洗衣液体系中只有银离子和聚六亚甲基双胍盐酸盐(PHMB)具有一定的长效抑菌能力,且只有PHMB符合标准要求。通过调整PHMB的添加量(w/%),并对调整后的洗衣液的长期抑菌性能、标准去污力和稳定性进行测试,得到一种非离子体系的长效抑菌洗衣液。当PHMB的添加量为1.2%时,洗衣液具有标准要求的长期抑菌效果,且去污效果良好。当PHMB的添加量进一步增加到2.0%时,洗衣液能达到较好的长效抑菌效果,去污力明显减弱。另外,在高低温试验中,洗衣液的外观、理化指标、去污性能、长效抑菌性能均无明显变化。

    A laundry detergent with long-term antibacterial effect was obtained by comparing the performance of six different bactericides in the formula. According to Group Standard T/ZGXX0004—2022 “Evaluation Method for Long-term Antibacterial Effect of Daily Chemical Products”, the long-term antibacterial effects of six laundry detergents were tested. The test results showed that only silver ion and polyhexamethylene biguanide hydrochloride (PHMB) had a certain long-term antibacterial ability, and only PHMB could meet the requirements of the standard. By adjusting the amount of PHMB added, the long-term antibacterial effect, detergency and stability of the detergent were tested, and a non-ionic formula of long-term antibacterial laundry detergent was obtained. When the amount of PHMB added was 1.2%, the detergent had the long-term antibacterial performance required by the standard, and its detergency was good. When the amount of PHMB added was further increased to 2.0%, the laundry detergent could achieve good long-term antibacterial performance, and the detergency was significantly decreased but could still meet the requirements. In the high-and low-temperature tests, the appearance, physical and chemical indexes, detergency and long-term antibacterial performance had no significant change.

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    C-O官能团修饰的CaMoO4光催化剂的合成与光催化活性研究
    Synthesis and photocatalytic activity of a CaMoO4 photocatalyst modified with C-O functional groups
    汪磊, 田君
    2024 (6):  669-676.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.007
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    采用溶胶凝胶法制备了对盐酸金霉素具有高效降解活性的CaMoO4光催化剂。通过多种表征手段,研究了CaMoO4光催化剂的相结构、纯度、官能团、表面形貌、光学性质和光催化活性。结果表明,CaMoO4光催化剂为四方相,其样品中存在少量的C-O官能团;颗粒近似呈球形,由大颗粒和细颗粒组成;其具有高的可见光响应能力,光学带隙值为3.21 eV。以盐酸金霉素为目标降解物,在不同的药品质量浓度、催化剂含量、pH值条件研究了CaMoO4光催化剂降解盐酸金霉素的光催化活性。结果表明,盐酸金霉素质量浓度为200 mg/L、催化剂含量1 g/L和pH值为7时,CaMoO4光催化剂的降解百分比达到了94%。结合实验结果和能带理论,提出了CaMoO4光催化剂降解盐酸金霉素的光催化机理。机理研究表明,C-O官能团在反应过程中为电子提供额外的能量使其跃迁到CaMoO4光催化剂的导带,促进电子空穴对的产生;空穴、羟基自由基和超氧自由基是促进盐酸金霉素降解的关键因素。

    A CaMoO4 photocatalyst with high activity for degradation of aureomycin hydrochloride was prepared by sol-gel method. The phase structure, purity, functional group, surface morphology, optical properties and photocatalytic activity of the CaMoO4 photocatalyst were investigated by various characterization methods. The results showed that the CaMoO4 photocatalyst was tetragonal phase, and a small amount of C-O functional groups were present in the sample. The particles were approximately spherical, which consisted of large particles and fine particles. It had high visible-light response with an optical band gap value of 3.21 eV. The photocatalytic activity of CaMoO4 photocatalyst was studied at different drug concentrations, catalyst dosages and pH values using aureomycin hydrochloride as the target for degradation. The results showed that the degradation percentage reached 94% at the drug mass concentration of 200 mg/L, photocatalyst dosage of 1 g/L and pH of 7. The photocatalytic mechanism of the CaMoO4 photocatalyst was proposed based on experimental results and band theory. The mechanism study showed that the C-O functional groups provided extra energy for electron transition to the conduction band of the CaMoO4 photocatalyst and promoted the generation of electron hole pairs. Holes, hydroxyl radicals and superoxide radicals were the key factors to promote the degradation of aureomycin hydrochloride.

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    Fe3O4纳米粒子的制备及载药释放性能研究
    Preparation of Fe3O4 nanoparticles and its drug-loading and drug-release properties
    高蓉, 石森林
    2024 (6):  677-682.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.008
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    采用改进的Hummers法获得氧化石墨烯(GO),通过共沉淀法制备了GO与磁性Fe3O4纳米粒子结合的GO/Fe3O4复合材料,分析了复合材料的晶体结构、微观形貌、磁化性能和载药性能,研究结果表明:GO/Fe3O4复合材料具有较高的结晶度,GO掺杂改善了Fe3O4颗粒的均匀度,晶粒尺寸为13~15 nm。GO/Fe3O4复合材料表现出超顺磁性,饱和磁化强度有轻微降低。利用GO/Fe3O4负载阿霉素(DOX)研究了载药释放性能,GO/Fe3O4/DOX包合物的DOX包封率均值为62.24%,具有较高的包封率,药物释放具有一定的pH依赖性,在pH=7.4时,GO/Fe3O4的累计释放率在75 h达到73.3%,摄入试验测试表明GO/Fe3O4载体具有一定的靶向性,在生物医学领域有广阔的应用前景。

    Graphene oxide (GO) was obtained by the improved Hummers method. The GO/Fe3O4 composite, in which GO was combined with magnetic Fe3O4 nanoparticles, was prepared by co-precipitation method. The crystalline structure, microscopic morphology, magnetic properties and drug loading of the composite were analyzed. The results showed that: The GO/Fe3O4 composite had high crystallinity; GO doping improved the uniformity of Fe3O4 particles, and the grain size of GO/Fe3O4 composite was 13-15 nm. The GO/Fe3O4 composite exhibited superparamagnetic properties with a slight decrease in saturation magnetization. The drug-release properties were studied by using GO/Fe3O4 composite to load doxorubicin (DOX). The average encapsulation efficiency of GO/Fe3O4/DOX inclusion complex was 62.24%, which was quite high. The drug release showed pH dependence. When the pH was 7.4, the cumulative release rate reached 73.3% in 75 h. The cellular uptake test showed that the GO/Fe3O4 carrier had certain targeting properties and could be used as a good new drug carrier.

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    羟基积雪草苷通过激活Nrf2-HO-1通路发挥抗衰老及皮肤修复作用
    Madecassoside exerts anti-aging and skin repair effects by activating Nrf2-HO-1 pathway
    王丹, 俞舜, 王玉英, 李京玲, 刘晨阳, 吕国忠
    2024 (6):  683-690.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.009
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    考察羟基积雪草苷(MA)对D-半乳糖诱导的皮肤衰老小鼠的抗衰老及皮肤修复作用。将小鼠分为6组(n=12):正常组(N)、模型组(M)、低、中、高剂量MA组(L-MA,M-MA,H-MA)和高剂量MA+Nrf2抑制剂ML385组(H-MA+ML385)。分别检测了各组小鼠的体重、皮肤含水量、皮肤组织中的抗氧化指标(SOD、CAT、GSH-Px和MDA)、HYP和HA水平。采用HE染色评价了小鼠皮肤组织结构。通过RT-qPCR检测了小鼠皮肤组织中MMP-1、MMP-3、Nrf2、Keap1和HO-1的转录水平。通过Western blotting检测了小鼠皮肤组织中Nrf2、Keap1和HO-1的蛋白表达水平。结果显示,与M组比较,L-MA组、M-MA组和H-MA组小鼠皮肤含水量升高,表皮和真皮厚度增加,皮肤结构明显改善,SOD、CAT和GSH-Px水平升高,MDA水平降低,HYP和HA水平升高,MMP-1和MMP-3 mRNA相对表达量降低,Nrf2和HO-1的mRNA和蛋白相对表达量升高,Keap1 mRNA和蛋白相对表达量降低(P<0.05)。ML385部分减弱了MA对Nrf2-HO-1通路的激活效果,并减弱了MA的抗衰老和皮肤修复作用(P<0.05)。本研究表明,MA具有良好的抗衰老和皮肤修复作用,其机制与激活Nrf2-HO-1通路有关。

    The study aimed to investigate the anti-aging and skin repair effects of madecassoside (MA) on D-galactose-induced skin aging mice. Mice were divided into 6 groups (n=12): normal group (N), model group (M), low, medium, high-dose MA groups (L-MA, M-MA, H-MA) and high-dose MA+Nrf2 inhibitor ML385 group (H-MA+ML385). The body weight, skin water content, antioxidant indicators (SOD, CAT, GSH-Px and MDA), HYP and HA levels in skin tissue of mice in each group were detected. Skin histology was evaluated by HE staining. The transcript levels of MMP-1, MMP-3, Nrf2, Keap1 and HO-1 in skin tissues were detected by RT-qPCR. The protein expression levels of Nrf2, Keap1 and HO-1 in skin tissue were detected by Western blotting. The results show that compared with the M group, the skin water content of mice in L-MA group, M-MA group and H-MA group increases, the thickness of the epidermis and dermis increases, the skin structure is significantly improved, the levels of SOD, CAT and GSH-Px increase, the level of MDA decreases, the level of HYP and HA increases, the relative expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 mRNA decreases, the relative expression of Nrf2 and HO-1 mRNA and protein increases, and the relative expression of Keap1 mRNA and protein decrease (P<0.05). ML385 partially weakens the activation effect of MA on the Nrf2-HO-1 pathway, and weakens the anti-aging and skin repair effects of MA (P<0.05). This study shows that MA has good anti-aging and skin repair effects, and its mechanism is related to the activation of Nrf2-HO-1 pathway.

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    麝香草酚三甲氧基肉桂酸酯抑制黑色素生成、转移及AGEs合成的功效研究
    Efficacy of thymol trimethoxycinnamate on melanin production, transfer and AGEs synthesis
    陈海峰, 杨小玉, 余昊阳, 刘蕾, 李润夏, 何聪芬
    2024 (6):  691-697.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.010
    摘要 ( 87 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF(7091KB) ( 41 )  

    基于皮肤细胞模型研究了麝香草酚三甲氧基肉桂酸酯的美白功效,采用CCK-8法和观察细胞状态检测麝香草酚三甲氧基肉桂酸酯对B16-F10细胞活率的影响;分别采用NaOH裂解法和多巴氧化法分析B16-F10细胞中黑色素含量和酪氨酸酶活性变化;采用细胞划痕法和Transwell小室法测定B16-F10细胞迁移能力变化;利用荧光分析法检测体外糖化实验中荧光性AGEs含量变化。结果表明麝香草酚三甲氧基肉桂酸酯质量浓度在10 μg/mL及以下时对细胞活率没有明显影响,并且在10 μg/mL时对黑色素合成、酪氨酸酶活性以及细胞迁移能力抑制率最高;200 μg/mL时在体外对荧光性AGEs生成的抑制率达到97.75%。研究结果表明麝香草酚三甲氧基肉桂酸酯可以明显抑制黑色素的生成并抑制酪氨酸酶的活性,具有较好的美白功效;由于其同时具有较好的抗糖化能力,可作为潜在的抗衰老原料。

    The whitening effect of thymol trimethoxycinnamate was studied based on skin cell model. CCK-8 method and cell state observation were used to detect the effect of thymol trimethoxycinnamate on the viability of B16-F10 cells. NaOH lysis method and dopa oxidation method were used to analyze the changes of melanin content and tyrosinase activity in B16-F10 cells. Cell scratch method and Transwell chamber method were used to determine the migration ability of B16-F10 cells. Fluorescence analysis was used to detect the changes of fluorescent AGEs content in the saccharification experiment in vitro. The results show that thymol trimethoxycinnamate has no significant effect on cell viability at or below 10 μg/mL, and has the highest inhibition rate on melanin synthesis, tyrosinase activity and cell migration at 10 μg/mL. The inhibition rate of fluorescent AGEs production in vitro is 97.75% at 200 μg/mL. The results show that thymol trimethoxycinnamate can obviously inhibit the formation of melanin and tyrosinase activity, and has a good whitening effect. Because of its good anti-saccharification ability, it can be used as a potential anti-aging material.

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    专论与综述
    油水混相泡沫的稳定化研究进展
    Research progress on the stabilization of oil-water miscible foams
    方旭东, 燕永利, 刘江波, 严阿勇, 贺炳成
    2024 (6):  698-707.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.011
    摘要 ( 1064 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(9021KB) ( 54 )  

    油水混相泡沫是一种特殊的泡沫体系,由于其在化工、食品、药品等领域的广泛应用,因此对其稳定化机制的研究变得越来越重要。基于最新研究进展,研究了影响油水混相泡沫稳定性的因素,包括表面活性物质、油相以及一些其他因素,以探究其对泡沫的发泡性能和稳定性的作用机制,并着重论述了油相的种类、含量对泡沫稳定化的影响,最后探究了温度、矿化度以及不同表面活性剂和颗粒或者油相的耦合对泡沫稳定性的影响。文章还提出了一些未来的研究方向以及利用新型材料和纳米颗粒技术开发更有效的泡沫稳定化方法,对于深入理解油水混相泡沫的稳定化机制、优化泡沫性能、开发新的应用和解决相关领域的问题具有重要意义。

    Oil-water miscible foam is a special kind of foam system, and the study of its stabilization mechanism has become more and more important due to its wide application in the fields of chemical industry, food, and pharmaceuticals. Based on the latest research progress, the factors affecting the stability of oil-water miscible foams have been reviewed, including surface active substances, oil phase, etc., and the mechanisms of their effects on the foaming performance and stability of oil-water miscible foams have also been summarized. The effects of the type and content of oils on the stabilization of oil-water miscible foams are focused on. Finally, the effects of temperature, degree of mineralization and different combinations of surfactants/particles/oils on the stabilization of oil-water miscible foams are introduced. Some future research directions and the development of more effective foam stabilization methods using novel materials and nanoparticle technologies are also proposed, which are of great significance for deeper understanding of the stabilization mechanisms of oil-water miscible foams, the optimization of foam properties, the development of new applications, and the solutions to the problems in related fields.

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    天然植物多糖的提取、分离及其在皮肤领域的研究进展
    Research progress of extraction and isolation of natural plant polysaccharides and their applications in skin care
    刘慧, 杨思佳, 任晗堃, 曲召辉, 郑立波, 李姝静
    2024 (6):  708-717.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.012
    摘要 ( 1197 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(9074KB) ( 62 )  

    植物多糖是一种从植物各部位中提取的天然高分子聚合物,由十个或十个以上的单糖单元通过糖苷键聚合而成。近年来,由于其丰富的生物活性、安全性、亲肤性等特点越来越受到人们的关注。多糖的结构和功能之间具有密切关系,不同的提取和纯化方法会对多糖的结构产生影响,进而改变其生物活性。本文阐述了植物多糖的提取、分离、纯化工艺,并同时对植物多糖具有的保湿补水、抗氧化、抗炎、抑菌、美白等功效进行了总结,以期为植物多糖在功能化妆品的开发和应用提供理论支撑。

    Plant polysaccharides are natural polymers extracted from various parts of plants, which are composed of ten or more monosaccharide units connected with glycosidic bonds. In recent years, their applications in skin care have attracted more and more attention due to the rich biological activity, low cytotoxicity, safety, and being skin-friendly. The biological activities of polysaccharides closely correlate with their structure, and different techniques of extraction and purification could have influence on the structure of polysaccharides. Therefore, in this review, the relevant studies on plant polysaccharides in recent years have been summarized, including the extraction, isolation and purification processes of plant polysaccharides, and the applications in skin care such as moisturizing and hydrating, skin whitening and antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. This review can provide theoretical support for application of plant polysaccharides in the development of cosmetics.

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    虚拟筛选技术在黑色素生成抑制剂研发中的应用
    Application of virtual screening technology in the development of melanin generation inhibitors
    胡金金, 刘智禹, 陈小娥, 陈贝
    2024 (6):  718-726.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.013
    摘要 ( 60 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(8967KB) ( 39 )  

    黑色素含量水平及其分布被认为是影响肤色的重要因素。在黑色素生成过程中,酪氨酸酶(TYR)是调节黑色素含量的关键限速酶。小眼畸形相关转录因子(MITF)是黑色素细胞的主要调控因子,在黑色素细胞的分化和增殖中发挥着关键作用。大量研究表明通过降低TYR活性或稳定性,或干扰MITF正常转录,可预防或缓解黑色素生成异常而产生的各种皮肤问题。虚拟筛选具有成本低、效率高的优点,该技术应用于筛选黑色素生成抑制剂的研究具有良好的应用前景。本文总结了黑色素的合成和调控规律,综述了虚拟筛选技术在黑色素生成抑制剂研发中的应用进展,为探索黑色素生成抑制剂先导化合物提供参考。

    With the development of economy and society, great business opportunities have emerged in the skin whitening and anti-spot industry. Melanin content and its distribution are considered to be important factors affecting skin color. Tyrosinase (TYR) is a key rate-limiting enzyme in the regulation of melanin content. Microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) is a major regulator of melanocytes and plays a key role in the differentiation and proliferation of melanocytes. A large number of studies have shown that by reducing the activity or stability of TYR, or interfering with the normal transcription of MITF, various skin problems caused by abnormal melanin production can be prevented or alleviated. Virtual screening has the advantages of low cost and high efficiency. This technology has a good application prospect in screening melanin synthesis inhibitors. In this paper, the synthesis and regulation of melanin were summarized, and the application progress of virtual screening technology in the development of melanin production inhibitors was reviewed, which provided a reference for exploring the lead compounds of melanin production inhibitors.

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    护肤类化妆品功效评价理化试验方法的现状和分析
    Current status and analysis of physicochemical testing methods for evaluating the efficacy of skin care cosmetics
    顾宇翔, 周羽, 刘恕
    2024 (6):  727-732.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.014
    摘要 ( 89 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(5479KB) ( 84 )  

    根据《化妆品功效宣称评价规范》的规定,实验室试验的结果可以用于支撑多类的化妆品功效宣称。实验室试验包括多种,其中以物理、化学或生物化学的方式进行测试的理化法虽然可能难以准确外推到人体实际使用的效果,但是具有结果重复性较好、方法简单、费用便宜等优点,被广泛使用于抗皱、舒缓、保湿功效评价以及量化指标测试等方面。所用的方法包括抑制基质金属蛋白酶法、抑制弹性蛋白酶法、抑制非酶糖基化反应法、自由基清除法、抑制透明质酸酶法、称重法和持妆(防水抗汗)法等。但目前理化测试方法存在着覆盖面不广、方法使用存在局限性、检测结果支撑功效宣称不恰当、缺乏统一标准等问题,因而现有方法的应用存在不科学的地方。今后建议加强理化试验方法的标准制订,完善化妆品功效评价标准化体系。

    According to the “Evaluation Specification for Cosmetic Efficacy Claims”, the results of laboratory tests can be used to support multiple types of cosmetic efficacy claims, including anti-wrinkle, firming, soothing, oil control, exfoliating, anti-hair breakage, dandruff removal, moisturizing, hair care, raw material efficacy, and declared mild (non irritating), and quantitative indicators. The laboratory tests are different from the actual usage status of the product, and their appeal to consumers are far less than that of human research. They also have the advantages of good repeatability, simple, low cost, et al. Laboratory tests include physicochemical (biochemical) tests, cell tests, skin model tests and animal tests, et al. Although it may be difficult to accurately extrapolate the effects of physicochemical methods to the actual use of the human body, they are widely used now. Through testing the inhibitory effect of cosmetics in matrix metalloproteinase, elastase and nonenzymatic glycosylation reaction, or the scavenging ability of cosmetics in free radicals, the anti-wrinkle efficacy of the product can be evaluated. Through testing the inhibitory effect of cosmetics in hyaluronidase, or the scavenging ability of cosmetics in free radicasl, the soothing efficacy of the product can be evaluated. Through testing the moisture absorption and moisturizing rate of cosmetics, the soothing and moisturizing efficacy of the product can be evaluated. Some research also show that there is a certain positive correlation between the moisturizing rate of physicochemical testing methods and human research. Through testing the ability of waterproof and anti-sweat, the hold on efficacy of makeup can be evaluated. At present, there are various physicochemical methods for evaluating the efficacy of cosmetics widely used, but many methods lack standard specifications and guidance. The existing group standards have certain shortcomings or limitations, leading to some problems in practical application. For example, the claims of some efficacies lack appropriate physicochemical testing methods, the same test indicator corresponds to multiple efficacy claims, some standards are not applicable to certain products and need to be improved in sample pre-treatment and result analysis, and the test results can not support the efficacy claims scientifically. In the future, it is recommended to strengthen the standardization of physicochemical test methods, improve the standardized system for evaluating the efficacy of cosmetics, and to promote the development of the cosmetics industry.

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    洗发水表面活性剂对头皮的影响及其内在机制的研究进展
    Advances in the effects of shampoo surfactants on scalp and their underlying mechanisms
    王紫迪, 周城, 何华名, 焦倩, 苏芊芊, 贾焱
    2024 (6):  733-743.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.015
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    头皮的屏障功能需要正常的皮脂分泌和平衡的微生态共同维持。表面活性剂作为洗发水的核心成分,在提供清洁作用时,会与角质层(SC)蛋白质和脂质相互作用,并且对头皮微生态产生影响,从而破坏头皮屏障。此外,表面活性剂的使用可能会造成头皮瘙痒、刺痛、发红、炎症等刺激反应。值得注意的是,不同种类的表面活性剂对脂质的去除可能具有选择性。阴离子表面活性剂处理会去除胆固醇、游离脂肪酸和角鲨烯,但不影响神经酰胺和甘油三酯的含量,而阳离子表面活性剂却可以显著减少甘油三酯和神经酰胺的含量。脂质组学与微生物组学策略的结合将有助于进一步研究表面活性剂对头皮脂质和微生物的影响,从而指导不同表面活性剂在不同头皮类型中的使用,为研发具有针对性、低刺激性、高功效性的洗发水提供依据。

    The barrier function of the scalp is maintained by normal sebum secretion and balanced microecology. As the core ingredient to provide cleansing efficacy in shampoos, surfactants can interact with proteins and lipids of stratum corneum (SC), and have an impact on the scalp microecology, thereby disrupting the scalp barrier. In addition, the application of surfactants may cause irritation reactions on the scalp, such as itching, stinging, redness, and inflmmation. Specifically, different types of surfactants may be selective for lipid removal. Anionic surfactants can remove cholesterol, free fatty acids, and squalene with no effect on ceramides and triglycerides, whereas cationic surfactants significantly reduce the contents of triglycerides and ceramides. In the future, lipidomics and microbiomics strategies can be combined to further study the effects of surfactants on scalp lipids and microorganisms, thus providing guidance on the selection of appropriate surfactants for different scalp types, and the basis for the development of shampoos with targeted scalp type, low irritation, and high efficacy.

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    分析与检测
    UPLC-Q-TOF测定化妆品中9种硝基苯类化合物
    Determination of nine nitrobenzene compounds in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography quadrupole-time-of-flight mass spectrometry
    张科明, 刘雪年, 邓鸣, 鲁毅翔, 许杨彪
    2024 (6):  744-750.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.016
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    建立了超高效液相色谱-四极杆-飞行时间质谱筛查确证化妆品中9种硝基苯类化合物的分析方法。样品经乙酸乙酯提取后,钯碳5% Pd催化氢化,以0.1%(V/V)甲酸水-乙腈为流动相在Poroshell 120 EC-C18(100 mm×4.6 mm, 2.7 µm)色谱柱上进行梯度洗脱,正离子模式下采用信息依赖性扫描(Auto MS/MS CID)模式采集图谱,以保留时间、一级母离子精确质量数、同位素丰度比、二级子离子精确质量数构建筛查数据库并对检测结果检索,实现化妆品中9种硝基苯类化合物的筛查确证,以分子离子精确质量数提取色谱峰面积定量。结果表明,9种硝基苯类化合物的氢化产物线性关系良好,相关系数(r)大于0.999,方法的检出限为0.01~0.3 mg/kg,定量限为0.04~2.0 mg/kg。膏霜、化妆水、爽身粉、唇膏基质在三个加标水平下的回收率为85.2%~113%,RSD为0.23%~3.61%。该法准确、灵敏、专属性好,适用于化妆品中硝基苯类化合物的筛查和定量分析。

    An ultra performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole-time-flight mass spectrometric method was developed for the simultaneous screening and determination of 9 nitrobenzene compounds, including nitrobenzene (NB), 3, 4-dinitrotoluene (3, 4-DNT), 2, 3-dinitrotoluene (2, 3-DNT), 2, 4-dinitrotoluene (2, 4-DNT), 2, 6-dinitrotoluene (2, 6-DNT), 2, 5-dinitrotoluene (2, 5-DNT), 3, 5-dinitrotoluene (3, 5-DNT), 2-nitrotoluene (2-NT) and 1-chloro-4-nitrobenzene (ChNB) in cosmetics. Samples were extracted with ethyl acetate, and the extracts were further hydrogenated using 5% Pd/C catalyst. The target analytes were separated on a Poroshell 120 EC-C18 chromatographic column (100 mm×4.6 mm, 2.7 µm). Gradient elution was carried out with 0.1% (V/V) formic acid aqueous solution and acetonitrile as the mobile phases. The eluent from the column was further detected using Q-tof MS with information dependent acquisition (Auto MS/MS) mode for MS data acquisition. A database, containing retention time, precise mass of parent ion, isotope abundance ratio and precise mass of fragment ion, was established for screening and confirming the nitrobenzene compounds. The quantitation analysis was carried out by extracting peak area with precise mass. Under optimal conditions, the analytes show good linear relationship within the range, with the correlation coefficient (r) not less than 0.999. The limits of detection are in the range of 0.01-0.3 mg/kg, and the limits of quantification are in the range of 0.04-2.0 mg/kg. Samples, such as cream, lotion, powder and lip balm, are fortified at three levels. The average spiked recoveries range from 85.2% to 113%, with the relative standard deviations (RSDs) ranging from 0.23% to 3.61%. The optimized method is accurate, sensitive, specific and suitable for the detection and screening of nitrobenzene compounds in cosmetics.

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