根据《化妆品功效宣称评价规范》的规定,实验室试验的结果可以用于支撑多类的化妆品功效宣称。实验室试验包括多种,其中以物理、化学或生物化学的方式进行测试的理化法虽然可能难以准确外推到人体实际使用的效果,但是具有结果重复性较好、方法简单、费用便宜等优点,被广泛使用于抗皱、舒缓、保湿功效评价以及量化指标测试等方面。所用的方法包括抑制基质金属蛋白酶法、抑制弹性蛋白酶法、抑制非酶糖基化反应法、自由基清除法、抑制透明质酸酶法、称重法和持妆(防水抗汗)法等。但目前理化测试方法存在着覆盖面不广、方法使用存在局限性、检测结果支撑功效宣称不恰当、缺乏统一标准等问题,因而现有方法的应用存在不科学的地方。今后建议加强理化试验方法的标准制订,完善化妆品功效评价标准化体系。
According to the “Evaluation Specification for Cosmetic Efficacy Claims”, the results of laboratory tests can be used to support multiple types of cosmetic efficacy claims, including anti-wrinkle, firming, soothing, oil control, exfoliating, anti-hair breakage, dandruff removal, moisturizing, hair care, raw material efficacy, and declared mild (non irritating), and quantitative indicators. The laboratory tests are different from the actual usage status of the product, and their appeal to consumers are far less than that of human research. They also have the advantages of good repeatability, simple, low cost, et al. Laboratory tests include physicochemical (biochemical) tests, cell tests, skin model tests and animal tests, et al. Although it may be difficult to accurately extrapolate the effects of physicochemical methods to the actual use of the human body, they are widely used now. Through testing the inhibitory effect of cosmetics in matrix metalloproteinase, elastase and nonenzymatic glycosylation reaction, or the scavenging ability of cosmetics in free radicals, the anti-wrinkle efficacy of the product can be evaluated. Through testing the inhibitory effect of cosmetics in hyaluronidase, or the scavenging ability of cosmetics in free radicasl, the soothing efficacy of the product can be evaluated. Through testing the moisture absorption and moisturizing rate of cosmetics, the soothing and moisturizing efficacy of the product can be evaluated. Some research also show that there is a certain positive correlation between the moisturizing rate of physicochemical testing methods and human research. Through testing the ability of waterproof and anti-sweat, the hold on efficacy of makeup can be evaluated. At present, there are various physicochemical methods for evaluating the efficacy of cosmetics widely used, but many methods lack standard specifications and guidance. The existing group standards have certain shortcomings or limitations, leading to some problems in practical application. For example, the claims of some efficacies lack appropriate physicochemical testing methods, the same test indicator corresponds to multiple efficacy claims, some standards are not applicable to certain products and need to be improved in sample pre-treatment and result analysis, and the test results can not support the efficacy claims scientifically. In the future, it is recommended to strengthen the standardization of physicochemical test methods, improve the standardized system for evaluating the efficacy of cosmetics, and to promote the development of the cosmetics industry.