洗发水表面活性剂对头皮的影响及其内在机制的研究进展

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.06.015

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

头皮的屏障功能需要正常的皮脂分泌和平衡的微生态共同维持。表面活性剂作为洗发水的核心成分，在提供清洁作用时，会与角质层（SC）蛋白质和脂质相互作用，并且对头皮微生态产生影响，从而破坏头皮屏障。此外，表面活性剂的使用可能会造成头皮瘙痒、刺痛、发红、炎症等刺激反应。值得注意的是，不同种类的表面活性剂对脂质的去除可能具有选择性。阴离子表面活性剂处理会去除胆固醇、游离脂肪酸和角鲨烯，但不影响神经酰胺和甘油三酯的含量，而阳离子表面活性剂却可以显著减少甘油三酯和神经酰胺的含量。脂质组学与微生物组学策略的结合将有助于进一步研究表面活性剂对头皮脂质和微生物的影响，从而指导不同表面活性剂在不同头皮类型中的使用，为研发具有针对性、低刺激性、高功效性的洗发水提供依据。

关键词: 洗发水表面活性剂, 皮肤/头皮屏障, 洗发水配方, 头皮护理

Abstract:

The barrier function of the scalp is maintained by normal sebum secretion and balanced microecology. As the core ingredient to provide cleansing efficacy in shampoos, surfactants can interact with proteins and lipids of stratum corneum （SC）, and have an impact on the scalp microecology, thereby disrupting the scalp barrier. In addition, the application of surfactants may cause irritation reactions on the scalp, such as itching, stinging, redness, and inflmmation. Specifically, different types of surfactants may be selective for lipid removal. Anionic surfactants can remove cholesterol, free fatty acids, and squalene with no effect on ceramides and triglycerides, whereas cationic surfactants significantly reduce the contents of triglycerides and ceramides. In the future, lipidomics and microbiomics strategies can be combined to further study the effects of surfactants on scalp lipids and microorganisms, thus providing guidance on the selection of appropriate surfactants for different scalp types, and the basis for the development of shampoos with targeted scalp type, low irritation, and high efficacy.

Key words: shampoo surfactants, skin/scalp barrier, shampoo formulations, scalp care

中图分类号:

TQ423

王紫迪, 周城, 何华名, 焦倩, 苏芊芊, 贾焱. 洗发水表面活性剂对头皮的影响及其内在机制的研究进展[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(6): 733-743.

Zidi Wang, Cheng Zhou, Huaming He, Qian Jiao, Qianqian Su, Yan Jia. Advances in the effects of shampoo surfactants on scalp and their underlying mechanisms[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(6): 733-743.

图/表 6

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Categories of surfactants		Action properties	Example	Advantages and disadvantages	Reference
Traditional surfactants	Anionic surfactants	Strong cleansing ability, high irritation	SLS, sodium laureth sulphate, etc.	Easy to obtain, low cost, potential risk of irritation	[7, 8]
	Cationic surfactants	Weak cleansing ability, conditioning damaged hair, softening hair	BTAC, CTAC, etc.		[7, 8]
	Amphoteric surfactants	Good foaming, cleansing and wetting properties	Sodium lauraminopropionate, CAPB, etc.		[7, 8]
	Non-ionic surfactants	Mild, anti-static, thickening effect	APG, polyoxyethylene sorbitol esters, etc.		[8]
New surfactants	Gemini surfactants	Low cmc, high surface tension, mild, excellent solubilisation, and foaming properties	Cationic gemini, anionic gemini, amphoteric gemini	Low toxicity, high foaming, high biodegradability, environmentally friendly, but very expensive to produce	[9]
	Green surfactants	Safe, mild, high foaming, versatile, low toxicity, biodegradable	Glycolipids, lipopeptides, saponins, etc.		[6, 16]
	Chelating surfactants	Chelating action, surface active, removes stubborn dirt	N-acyl ED3A, etc.		[18, 19]