含茶皂素洗发水的安全性及头皮护理功效评价

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.04.011

日用化学工业 ›› 2021, Vol. 51 ›› Issue (4): 331-337.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.04.011

含茶皂素洗发水的安全性及头皮护理功效评价

杨井国^1,²(),沈胡驰^1,²,陈殿松²,赵锷³,蔡臻子³,王靖^1,²()

1.江南大学化工与材料工程学院化妆品研究中心,江苏无锡 214122
2.阿道夫科研创新实验室,广东广州 510000
3.欧莱雅中国研发和创新中心,上海 201203

收稿日期:2020-07-24 修回日期:2021-04-01 出版日期:2021-04-22 发布日期:2021-04-27
通讯作者: 王靖
作者简介:杨井国（1973-）,男,安徽人,电话：13961727089,E-mail： yjg1224@yeah.net。

Safety and scalp care efficacy evaluation of shampoos containing tea saponins

YANG Jing-guo^1,²(),SHEN Hu-chi^1,²,CHEN Dian-song²,ZHAO E³,CAI Zhen-zi³,WANG Jing^1,²()

1. Cosmetic Research Center, School of Chemical & Material Engineering, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
2. Adolph Research and Innovation Laboratory, Guangzhou, Guangdong 510000, China
3. L’Oréal Research & Innovation China, Shanghai 201203, China

Received:2020-07-24 Revised:2021-04-01 Online:2021-04-22 Published:2021-04-27
Contact: Jing WANG

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

采用替代模型（包括EpiSkin^TM重组人表皮模型和鸡胚绒毛尿囊膜试验）研究了茶皂素的皮肤刺激性和眼刺激性,结果表明质量分数2%~10%的茶皂素水溶液无皮肤刺激性,而质量分数小于2%的茶皂素水溶液无眼刺激性。在此基础上配制了含茶皂素（质量分数5.0%）的洗发水,结合志愿者感观评价、头皮显微观察和仪器测试,对茶皂素洗发水的头皮护理功效进行了评价,结果显示含茶皂素的洗发水具有较好的去屑、控油、止痒、改善头皮敏感性和屏障功能的功效。上述功效可能与茶皂素的抑菌、抗炎、抗氧化等生物活性相关。本研究可为茶皂素应用于洗发水的安全性及头皮护理功效提供基础数据。

关键词: 茶皂素, 洗发水, 皮肤/眼刺激性, 头皮护理

Abstract:

In this study, the skin irritation and eye irritation of tea saponin were studied by using alternative models （including Episkin^TM reconstructed human epidermal model and chicken embryo chorioallantoic membrane test）. The results show that 2%-10% tea saponin solution shows no skin irritation, and tea saponin solution less than 2% （mass fraction） does not exhibit eye irritation. Then, a shampoo containing 5.0% （mass fraction） tea saponin was prepared. By combined sensory evaluation, microscopic scalp observation and instrument test, the efficacy of tea saponin shampoo on scalp care was evaluated. The results show that the shampoo containing tea saponin shows good efficacy in removing dandruff, controlling sebum, relieving itching, lowering scalp sensitivity and improving barrier function. The above effects may be related to the biological activities of tea saponin, such as antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidation. This study can provide basic data for the safety and scalp care efficacy of tea saponin in shampoo.

Key words: tea saponin, shampoo, skin/eye irritation, scalp care efficacy

中图分类号:

TQ658

杨井国,沈胡驰,陈殿松,赵锷,蔡臻子,王靖. 含茶皂素洗发水的安全性及头皮护理功效评价[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(4): 331-337.

YANG Jing-guo,SHEN Hu-chi,CHEN Dian-song,ZHAO E,CAI Zhen-zi,WANG Jing. Safety and scalp care efficacy evaluation of shampoos containing tea saponins[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(4): 331-337.

图/表 7

表 1

图 1

表 2

图 2

图 3

图 4

图 5

参考文献 14

[1]	Chaicharoenpong C, Petsom A. Use of tea (Camellia oleifera Abel.) seeds in human health[J]. Nuts & Seeds in Health & Disease Prevention, 2011: 1115-1122.
[2]	Bezerra K G O, Rufino R D, Luna J M, et al. Saponins and microbial biosurfactants: potential raw materials for the formulation of cosmetics[J]. Biotechnology Progress, 2018,34:1482-1493.
[3]	Ye Y, Guo Y, Luo Y T. Anti-inflammatory and analgesic activities of a novel biflavonoid from shells of Camellia oleifera[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2012,13(10) : 12401-12411.
[4]	Khan M I, Kim J D, Shin J H. Green tea seed isolated saponins exerts antibacterial effects against various strains of gram positive and gram negative bacteria, a comprehensive study in vitro and in vivo[J]. Evidence Based Complementary & Alternative Medicine, 2018,10:536.
[5]	Liu R, Zhang L, Fan Y, et al. Purification, antioxidant activity and bacteriostasis effect of tea saponin from tea seed residues[J]. Journal of Nanchang University (Engineering & Technology), 2013,35(1) : 17-21.
[6]	Guo N, Tong T, Ren N, et al. Saponins from seeds of Genus Camellia: Phytochemistry and bioactivity[J]. Phytochemistry, 2018,149:42-55.
[7]	Wu X, Huang J, Huang M, et al. Study on properties of tea saponin, a kind of natural non-ionic surfactant[J]. China Cleaning Industry, 2017 ( 2) : 38-42.
[8]	Li L, Yu W, Liu G, et al. The extraction of tea saponin and its application in shampoos[J]. Applied Chemical Industry, 2016,45(1) : 78-81.
[9]	Jian H, Liao X, Zhu L, et al. Synergism and foaming properties in binary mixtures of a biosurfactant derived from Camellia oleifera Abel and synthetic surfactants[J]. Journal of Colloid & Interface Science, 2011,359(2) : 487-492. pmid: 21543081
[10]	Qiu J, Zhong L, Zhou M, et al. Establishment and characterization of a reconstructed Chinese human epidermis model[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016,38(1) : 60-67.
[11]	Li N, Liu Y, Qiu J, et al. In vitro skin irritation assessment becomes a reality in China using a reconstructed human epidermis test method[J]. Toxicology in Vitro, 2017,41:159-167.
[12]	Li M, Alexandre G, Ying C, et al. Sensitive scalp is associated with excessive sebum and perturbed microbiome[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2019,18:922-928.
[13]	Di T M, Yang S L, Du F Y, et al. Oleiferasaponin A2, a novel saponin from Camellia oleifera Abel. seeds, inhibits lipid accumulation of HepG2 cells through regulating fatty acid metabolism[J]. Molecules, 2018,23(12) : 3296.
[14]	Onlom C, Khanthawong S, Waranuch N, et al. In vitro anti-Malassezia activity and potential use in anti-dandruff formulation of Asparagus racemosus[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2014,36:74-78.

	w（空白对照组）/%	w（茶皂素组）/%
水	至100	至100
月桂醇聚醚硫酸酯钠（2EO,70%）	20.00	13.00
茶皂素	—	5.00
月桂酰肌氨酸钠	5.00	5.00
椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱	4.00	4.00
椰油基葡糖苷（C₁₂-C₁₄）	2.00	2.00
季戊四醇四硬脂酸酯	0.20	1.75
香精	0.80	0.80
苯甲酸钠	0.30	0.30
聚季铵盐-10	0.60	0.60
CE-1391（陶氏）	2.00	2.00
CE-1874（陶氏）	2.00	2.00
柠檬酸	0.95	0.90
乙二胺四乙酸二钠	0.10	0.10

样品名称	secH/s	secL/s	secC/s	IS	刺激程度
0.9% NaCl（阴性对照）	301	301	301	0	无眼刺激
1% SLS（阳性对照）	30	66	125	15.28	重度眼刺激
2% AES（对照组）	60	90	150	13.47	重度眼刺激
0.5%茶皂素	301	301	301	0	无眼刺激
1.0%茶皂素	301	301	301	0	无眼刺激
2.0%茶皂素	180	270	301	2.74	轻度眼刺激

含茶皂素洗发水的安全性及头皮护理功效评价

Safety and scalp care efficacy evaluation of shampoos containing tea saponins

RichHTML

PDF (PC)

赞

可视化

摘要/Abstract

引用本文

使用本文

图/表 7

参考文献 14

相关文章 12

Metrics

本文评价

推荐阅读 10

[1]	梁亦欢,杜晶. 洗发水体系低温“果冻”现象流变学研究及改善[J]. 日用化学工业, 2022, 52(9): 920-929.
[2]	沈胡驰,杨莉,陈殿松,马铃,杨井国,王靖. 茶皂素的脱色及控油功效研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2022, 52(5): 486-492.
[3]	高园,傅玄,袁瑞,马英剑,冯建国,刘岐. 茶皂素洗手液的制备及抑菌性能研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(1): 28-31.
[4]	杨旺火. HPLC-MS/MS法测定洗发水中10种违禁药物[J]. 日用化学工业, 2020, 50(3): 199-203.
[5]	卢伊娜. 一种植物复合提取物的抗炎止痒功效研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2019, 49(11): 737-741.
[6]	张瑞琪,杨成. 阳离子植物糖原的制备及性能研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2019, 49(11): 727-732.
[7]	陈默, 江丹, 黄亮, 张利萍. 一种用于评价洗发水去屑功效的体外生物模型[J]. 日用化学工业, 2017, 47(9): 508-511.
[8]	孙劲毅, 蔡春辉, 梁蓉, 杨成. 茶皂素的纯化及抑制酪氨酸酶活性的研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2017, 47(6): 312-316.
[9]	牛水蛟, 唐子安, 李启艳, 王小兵, 李俊婕, 于海英. 高效液相色谱法同时测定洗发水中6种去屑剂[J]. 日用化学工业, 2017, 47(6): 357-360.
[10]	马戎,戴玉梅. 季铵盐改性茶皂素的合成与性能研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2016, 46(3): 136-140.
[11]	郭洁, 张华珺, 刘齐, 张蓉. 高效液相色谱法同时测定洗发水中5种去屑剂[J]. 日用化学工业, 2015, 45(12): 715-718.
[12]	陈小康, 徐卡秋, 马红鹏, 卢二凯, 张真. 云母钛珠光颜料在洗发水体系中悬浮稳定性的研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2014, 44(5): 270-272.