洗发水体系低温“果冻”现象流变学研究及改善

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.09.002

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

从流变分析的角度上,运用动态温度扫描和动态频率扫描的方式了解低温凝胶现象,也就是俗称的“果冻”现象,在两种常见的透明洗发水表面活性剂体系中的表现。该现象在能形成虫状胶束并伴随盐屏蔽效应而加剧增稠的体系中容易产生,且随着Versathix（PEG-150季戊四醇四硬脂酸酯/PPG-2羟乙基椰油酰胺）锚定类型增稠剂的加入而加剧,在不易形成虫状胶束而仅依靠增稠剂形成三维网络结构增稠的体系中没有发现。冷冻透射电镜（Cryo-TEM）表征,确认了相似网络结构中虫状胶束和Versathix增稠的微观差异。同时探究在洗发水体系应用中有效改善凝胶的尝试方法。通过筛选,发现0.5%用量的水溶性赋脂剂Cromollient SCE（二PPG-2肉豆蔻油醇聚醚-10己二酸酯）的应用,使配方可以在不影响洗发水常温表观黏度范围的前提下有效改善体系低温下产生的凝胶现象。而该油脂更是一款能带来额外调理利益和提升配方温和性的原料,具有实际参考价值。

关键词: 洗发水, 低温, 凝胶, 流变特性, 黏弹性, 虫状胶束

Abstract:

“Jelly” phenomenon of two combined surfactant systems （SLES+CAPB and LS+CAPB） within temperature range of 0 ℃ to 40 ℃ were studied via two types of dynamic rheology tests, temperature sweep and frequency sweep. The results show that the phenomenon is mainly caused by the mechanism of wormlike micelles self-thickening structure. They both happen to appear in SLES+CAPB bases and LS+CAPB bases. The gelation range demonstrated by dynamic temperature constant frequency sweep appears in the systems which generates capability to form wormlike micelles. And the addition of Versathix （PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate （and） PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide） can intensify the phenomenon because its anchor chemical structure helps to build up the 3D network in between wormlike micelles and to consolidate its entangled transient interspace micellar structure. The systems with wormlike micelles can be verified by dynamic frequency constant temperature sweep and draw the graph of ‘Cole-Cole’ curve with the result of Maxwell trend. All over the trials, viscosity of SLES+CAPB systems could be thickened by sodium chloride with salt shielding effect to form wormlike micelles self-thickening structure. However, viscosity of LS+CAPB system can only form wormlike micelles with a certain low pH range. On the other hand, systems which can only form spherical micelles do not show gelation range according to temperature sweep results, even in those systems using a large use level of Versathix. The systems containing spherical micelles thickened by Versathix show Maxwell trend in ‘Cole-Cole’ curve transferred from the results of dynamic frequency constant temperature sweep as well. This is due to the network effect provided by the thickener. The microstructural difference of wormlike micelles and Versathix thickening systems were confirmed via characterization with Cryo-TEM images. In shampoo formulations, applying 0.5% use level of emollients with good solubilities may help to reduce “jelly” phenomenon during low temperature condition. However, some of those emollients may influence on viscosity at room temperature. According to the study results, Cromollient SCE （Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate） out of other ingredients can help to reduce this phenomenon with practical applying significance. Cromollient SCE does not influence much on system viscosity within room temperature range. And it can keep good clarity even using in surfactant systems. In addition, this ingredient can work as hair conditioning agent and help to reduce irritation mitigation in surfactant-based systems with additional benefits.

Key words: shampoo, low temperature, gelation, rheology behaviour, viscoelastic, wormlike micelles

中图分类号:

TQ658

梁亦欢,杜晶. 洗发水体系低温“果冻”现象流变学研究及改善[J]. 日用化学工业, 2022, 52(9): 920-929.

Liang Yihuan,Du Jing. “Jelly” phenomenon rheology study and improvement in shampoo system[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(9): 920-929.

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参考文献 10

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原料/INCI名称	w/%
水	To 100	To 100	To 100	To 100
SLES（水（和）月桂醇聚醚硫酸酯钠）	10.71	10.71	10.71	10.71
CAPB（水（和）椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱）	25.00	25.00	25.00	25.00
氯化钠	0	0.375	0.875	1.375
体系总盐含量	1.625	2.000	2.500	3.000

原料/INCI名称	w/%
水	To 100	To 100
SLES（水（和）月桂醇聚醚硫酸酯钠）	10.71	10.71
CAPB（水（和）椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱）	25.00	25.00
Versathix（PEG-150季戊四醇四硬脂酸酯（和）PPG-2羟乙基椰油酰胺（和）水）	0	0.400
体系总盐含量	1.625	1.625

原料/INCI名称	LS/CAPB（6∶9） pH=6.2				LS/CAPB（6∶9） pH=4.8
原料/INCI名称	w/%				w/%
水	To 100	To 100	To 100	To 100	To 100	To 100	To 100
LS（水（和）月桂酰肌氨酸钠）	20.00	20.00	20.00	20.00	20.00	20.00	20.00
CAPB（水（和）椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱）	30.00	30.00	30.00	30.00	30.00	30.00	30.00
柠檬酸	q.s．	q.s．	q.s．	q.s．	q.s．	q.s．	q.s．
Versathix（PEG-150季戊四醇四硬脂酸酯（和）PPG-2羟乙基椰油酰胺（和）水）	0	0.40	0.80	4.00	0	0.40	0.80
体系总盐含量	1.50	1.50	1.50	1.50	1.50	1.50	1.50

原料/INCI名称	w/%	功效
Glycerox HE（PEG-7甘油椰油酸酯）	0.50	滋润,增溶
Tween 28（PEG-80失水山梨醇月桂酸酯）	0.50	温和,增溶,降低SLES刺激
Cromollient SCE（二PPG-2肉豆蔻油醇聚醚-10己二酸酯）	0.50	丝般润肤,溶解性好
Crodafos HCE（油醇聚醚-5磷酸酯（和）二油醇磷酸酯）	0.50	增强发色牢度,减少处理伤害
Procetyl AWS（PPG-5鲸蜡醇聚醚-20）	0.50	高效润肤,增溶
Crovol A70（PEG-60杏仁甘油酯类）	0.50	滋润,增溶,抗过敏

原料/INCI名称	功能	w/%
水		To 100	To 100	To 100	To 100
SLES（水（和）月桂醇聚醚硫酸酯钠）	表面活性剂	18.00	18.00	18.00	18.00
CAPB（水（和）椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱）	表面活性剂	11.00	11.00	11.00	11.00
GHTC（瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵）	调理	0.30	0.30	0.30	0.30
Versathix（PEG-150季戊四醇四硬脂酸酯（和）PPG-2羟乙基椰油酰胺（和）水）	增稠	0.45	0.45	0.45	0.45
Procetyl AWS（PPG-5鲸蜡醇聚醚-20）	调理		0.50
Cromollient SCE（二PPG-2肉豆蔻油醇聚醚-10己二酸酯）	调理			0.50
Crovol A70（PEG-60杏仁甘油酯类）	调理				0.50
DMDM乙内酰脲	防腐	0.60	0.60	0.60	0.60