一种植物复合提取物的抗炎止痒功效研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.11.007

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

以蔓荆果﹑龙胆﹑何首乌根组成的植物复合提取物（VGP）为研究对象,通过多种方法对其抗炎止痒的功效进行研究。结果显示,在糠秕马拉色菌和过氧化氢（H₂O₂）诱导的角质形成细胞和单核细胞炎症模型上,VGP在质量分数为0.01%~0.125%的范围下能剂量依赖性地抑制白介素6（IL-6）﹑前列腺素E2（PGE-2）、单核细胞趋化蛋白1（MCP-1）和白介素1β（IL-1β）的表达。高浓度H₂O₂造成的人体皮肤损伤模型上,质量分数为0.5%和2%的VGP也能降低红斑及水泡的形成,缓解皮肤刺痛感及痒感。VGP作为一种天然来源的具有抗炎止痒功效的活性原料,可应用于头皮护理及皮肤护理领域。

关键词: 化妆品添加剂, 植物复合提取物, 抗炎止痒, 头皮护理

Abstract:

A herb composite extract VGP which consisted of Vitex trifolia fruit, Gentiana scabra, and Polygonum multiflorum root was prepared and its anti-inflammatory effect was studied by several methods. The results showed that on the model of NHEK and THP1 cell inflammation induced by Malassezia furfur and H₂O₂, VGP could inhibit the expressions of interleukin 6 （IL-6）, prostaglandin E2 （PGE-2）, monocyte chemoattractant protein 1 （MCP-1） and interleukin 1β （IL-1β） in a dosage-dependent manner in the concentration range of 0.01%-0.125%. In the human skin injury model caused by high concentration of H₂O₂, VGP at the concentrations of 0.5% and 2% could reduce the formation of erythema and blisters and relieve pruritus. Therefore, as a natural active ingredient VGP could play a role in scalp care and skin care by targeting inflammation.

Key words: cosmetic additive, herb composite extract, anti-inflammation, scalp care

中图分类号:

TQ658

卢伊娜. 一种植物复合提取物的抗炎止痒功效研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2019, 49(11): 737-741.

LU Yi-na. Study of anti-inflammatory efficacy of a herb composite extract[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49(11): 737-741.

图/表 4

参考文献 20

[1]	Wei S Y, Du Y J, Li L , et al. Progress in research work field with respect to the mechanism of dandruff and biochemical changes of dandruff scalp[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2017,47(12):713-718.
[2]	Gaitanis G, Magiatis P, Hantschke M , et al. The Malassezia genus in skin and systemic diseases[J]. Clinical Microbiology Reviews, 2012,25(1):106-141.
[3]	Kerr K, Darcy T, Henry J , et al. Epidermal changes associated with symptomatic resolution of dandruff: biomarkers of scalp health[J]. International Journal of Dermatology, 2011,50(1):102-113.
[4]	Turner G A, Hoptroff M, Harding C R . Stratum corneum dysfunction in dandruff[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012,34(4):298-306.
[5]	Denda M, Sato J, Tsuchiya T , et al. Low humidity stimulates epidermal DNA synjournal and amplifies the hyperproliferative response to barrier disruption: implication for seasonal exacerbations of inflammatory dermatoses[J]. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 1998,111(5):873-878.
[6]	Misery L, Loser K, Stander S . Sensitive skin[J]. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 2016,30:2-8.
[7]	Ottaviani M, Alestas T, Flori E , et al. Peroxidated squalene induces the production of inflammatory mediators in HaCaT keratinocytes: a possible role in acne vulgaris[J]. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2006,126(11):2430-2437.
[8]	Luca C, Picardo M, Brcathnach A , et al. Lipoperoxidase activity of Pityrosporum: characterisation of by-products and possible rôle in pityriasis versicolor[J]. Experimental Dermatology, 2010,5(1):49-56.
[9]	Ro B I, Dawson T L . The role of sebaceous gland activity and scalp microfloral metabolism in the etiology of seborrheic dermatitis and dandruff[J]. Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings, 2005,10(3):194-197.
[10]	Plotkin L I, Mathov I, Squiquera L , et al. Arachidonic acid released from epithelial cells by Malassezia furfur phospholipase A2: a potential pathophysiologic mechanism[J]. Mycologia, 1998,90(2):163-169.
[11]	Thomas D S, Ingham E, Bojar R A , et al. In vitro modulation of human keratinocyte pro- and anti-inflammatory cytokine production by the capsule of Malassezia species[J]. Pathogens & Disease, 2010,54(2):203-214.
[12]	Bai S B, Chen H X, Zhong J J , et al. RAW264.7 cell viability via MTT assay and possible factor analysis[J]. China Journal of Modern Medicine, 2011.
[13]	Lu Y N, Wang G Y, Xie H , et al. Efficacy study of antisebum GMP in the treatment of acne vulgaris[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019,49(1):29-33.
[14]	Donnarumma G, Paoletti I, Buommino E , et al. Malassezia furfurinduces the expression of β-defensin-2 in human keratinocytes in a protein kinase C-dependent manner[J]. Archives of Dermatological Research, 2004,295(11):474-481.
[15]	Suzuki T, Ohno N, Ohshima Y , et al. Soluble mannan and β-glucan inhibit the uptake of Malassezia furfur by human monocytic cell line, THP-1[J]. Pathogens & Disease, 1998,21(3):223-230.
[16]	Suzuki T, Tsuzuki A, Ohno N , et al. Enhancement of IL-8 production from human monocytic and granulocytic cell lines, THP-1 and HL-60, stimulated with Malassezia furfur[J]. FEMS Immunology & Medical Microbiology, 2000,28(2):157-162.
[17]	Lumpkin E A, Caterina M J . Mechanisms of sensory transduction in the skin[J]. Nature, 2007,445(7130):858-865.
[18]	Duan C, Zheng R . Research progress on the mechanism of cutaneous pruritus[J]. Medical Innovation of China, 2017,14(11):136-140.
[19]	Cheng Y J, Wang T, Dong C F , et al. The difference of damage to mouse skin caused by different hair dyes[J]. The Chinese Journal of Dermatovenereology, 2015 (9):907-909.
[20]	Zanoni T B, Pedrosa T N, Catarino C M , et al. Allergens of permanent hair dyes induces epidermal damage, skin barrier loss and IL-1α increase in epidermal in vitro model[J]. Food and Chemical Toxicology, 2017,112:265-272.

细胞	w（VGP）/%
细胞	0	0.062 5	0.125	0.25	0.5
NHEK细胞活性/%	100.00±1.75	95.19±3.10	88.31±3.75	30.58±1.32	5.68±0.27
THP1细胞活性/%	100.00±1.87	96.07±0.78	84.23±0.50	29.21±1.10	20.66±1.47

	对照	w（VGP）/%
	对照	0	0.5	2
ERY值	233.54	272.73	238.21^**	199.82^**
TEWL值	15.23	34.76	31.29^*	26.63^**
刺痛感评分/分	0	4.44	2.33^**	1.22^**
痒感评分/分	0	2.78	1.55^*	1.00^**