化妆品中芦荟苷的测定及其稳定性的研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.03.012

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

采用高效液相色谱法,考察了温度、pH、提取溶剂以及共存金属离子等条件对芦荟提取液中芦荟苷稳定性的影响,并通过建立校正曲线测定芦荟化妆品中芦荟苷及其分解产物的含量。样品经5 mL 90%甲醇30 ℃超声提取20 min后,以甲醇-乙腈-0.05%磷酸溶液为流动相梯度洗脱,经C₁₈柱分离,在356 nm波长下随机选取了7种标明添加芦荟成分的化妆品样品进行检测,结果显示,抽检的7种市售芦荟化妆品样品中1件乳液含有芦荟大黄素和大黄酚,1件爽肤水中含有大黄酚,其余均未检出芦荟苷或芦荟苷分解产物。

关键词: 化妆品添加剂, 芦荟苷, 稳定性, 高效液相色谱

Abstract:

The effects of temperature, pH, extraction solvent and metallic ions on the stability of aloin in aloe extract were investigated by HPLC method. The content of aloin and its decomposition products in aloe cosmetics was determined by establishing a calibration curve. The samples were ultrasonically extracted by 5 mL 90% methanol solution at 30 ℃ for 20 minutes, separated on a C₁₈ column by gradient elution using methanol, acetonitrile and 0.05% phosphoric acid as the mobile phases. Then 7 samples of cosmetics labeled aloe components were randomly selected for testing at 356 nm. The results show that one of the seven selected samples of aloe cosmetics contained aloe-emodin and chrysophanol, and one toner contained chrysophanol. And aloin or aloin degradation products were not detected in the rest.

Key words: cosmetic additive, aloin, stability, HPLC

中图分类号:

TQ658

张强,崔君,顾华,余肖峰,单晓锋,朱鸽. 化妆品中芦荟苷的测定及其稳定性的研究[J]. 日用化学工业, 2019, 49(3): 199-202.

Qiang ZHANG,Jun CUI,Hua GU,Xiao-feng YU,Xiao-feng SHAN,Ge ZHU. Determination of aloin in cosmetics and its stability[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49(3): 199-202.

图/表 6

表1

表2

图1

表3

图1

参考文献 11

[1]	Zhang Shasha, Wang Fengshan, Shi Hui . et al. Study on antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activities of aloe extract[J]. Heilongjiang Science and Technology Information, 2014,23(1) : 119.
[2]	Ouyang Yuzhu, Shi Aihua, Li Youshe . et al. Anti-oxidation action of aloes extract in cosmetic creams[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2008,38(1) : 32-34.
[3]	Chen Daiyi, Dong Pengcheng . Aloe’s humectant in cosmetic[J]. Journal of Shantou University, 2008,4(23) : 42-46.
[4]	Chang X L, Wang C H, Feng Y M , et al. Effects of heat treatments on the stabilities of polysaccharides substances and barbaloin in gel juice from Aloe vera Miller[J]. J Food Engineering, 2006,75:245-251. doi: 10.1016/j.jfoodeng.2005.04.026
[5]	Yan Zheng, Chen Shuangxi, Kou Zhengfu , et al. Study on the stability of aloin aqueous solution[J]. Journal of Henan University (Nature Science Editon) , 2010,40(3) : 287-290. doi: 10.3788/AOS20103012.3552
[6]	Wu Tingting, Wang Chao, Li Jie , et al. Determination of anthraquinone-compound in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2006,36(1) : 53-55. doi: 10.1007/s11434-006-2076-2
[7]	Yu Chenghua, Du Ruyun, Li Chao . et al. Determination of tree anthraquinone compounds in cosmetics by liquid chromatogrphy tandem mass spectrometry[J]. Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics, 2014 ( 4) : 42-44.
[8]	Yang Zhenghe . Physiological functions and efficacy of aloe compounds[J]. Animal Husbandry and Feed Science, 2012,33(7) : 8-9.
[9]	Wang Tao, Xia Qile, Chen Jianbing , et al. Research progress on extraction, isolation and bioactivity of active ingredients from aloes[J]. Food and Fermentation Industries Technology, 2012,48(4) : 8-9.
[10]	Chen Xinxia, Zhang Yuhang, Lin Ying , et al. Analysis of anthraquinones in different samples of aloe with HPLC-DAD and LC-MS/MS[J]. Natural Product Research and Development, 2009,21:817-821.
[11]	Li Guangdong. Formulation and preparation of practical chemical products[M]. Beijing: China Textile Press, 2011: 128-130.

化合物	线性范围/（mg·L^-1）	线性方程	相关系数	LOD/（μg·L^-1）
芦荟苷B	0.5~50	Y=15.19X+3.374 0	0.999 9	32
芦荟苷A	0.5~50	Y=21.11X+4.236 5	0.999 9	24
芦荟大黄素	0.5~50	Y=56.78X+6.980 5	1.000 0	9.7
大黄酚	0.5~50	Y=53.20X+15.84 6	1.000 0	8.8

待测物	样品中含量/（μg·g^-1）	加标量（μg·g^-1）	平均回收率/%	RSD/%
芦荟苷B	2 133	100	96.62	2.5
		500	98.88	2.2
		2 000	101.4	3.5
芦荟苷A	3 050	100	94.70	3.0
		500	98.23	2.3
		3 000	96.88	3.1
芦荟大黄素	198	50	105.0	1.8
		200	112.2	1.2
		400	110.7	3.3
大黄酚	94	50	105.7	1.9
		200	98.64	2.6
		400	104.9	3.7

金属元素	含量/（μg·g^-1）
金属元素	爽肤水	乳液	面霜	护手霜	防晒霜	BB霜
As	0.04	ND	ND	ND	1.3	0.23
Cr	0.76	0.06	0.39	0.88	ND	0.07
Cu	0.82	0.44	0.08	0.75	0.31	0.04
Fe	3.3	8.8	4.5	0.4	ND	35.6
Mn	6.7	0.05	7.9	0.84	ND	7.2
Pb	0.43	0.06	0.03	0.76	0.58	0.64

[1]	张丽媛, 颜琳琦, 程巧鸳, 戚绿叶, 王容, 黄柳倩. 高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中14种α-羟基酸和羟基酸酯[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(3): 353-359.
[2]	徐炜, 邹坡, 李长于, 杨铭, 鹿燕, 李慧良. 超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法测定化妆品中36种兴奋剂[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(3): 360-368.
[3]	张红菱, 程琳, 王海燕, 罗飞亚, 张会亮, 孙磊. 应用DPRA替代方法评价3种香豆素类化合物的皮肤致敏性[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(2): 156-160.
[4]	潘小红, 高梓琪, 陈真, 殷帅, 黄海萍, 胡斌. 我国化妆品产品稳定性研究与管理现状的探讨[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(2): 201-208.
[5]	鲁毅翔, 伍丽婷, 蒋济民, 陈海露, 黄璇. 化妆品中托萘酯、利拉萘酯的高效液相色谱定量及高效液相色谱-串联质谱确证[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(2): 231-238.
[6]	张丽媛, 程巧鸳, 陈岑, 李泽桦, 黄柳倩, 戚绿叶. 高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中3种α-羟基酸及其酯[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(1): 102-106.
[7]	龙慧端, 鲁毅翔, 覃江兰, 张科明. 高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中24种香豆素类化合物及质谱确证[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(1): 114-122.
[8]	王亚茹, 莫庭源, 赖红霞, 周悦, 谢嘉颖, 谭建华. 基于斑贴及稳定性试验剖析含烟酰胺化妆品皮肤刺激性成因[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(1): 51-56.
[9]	肖雪, 张慧荣, 李硕雯, 李孙华, 郭苗苗, 李丽. 滨海刺芹愈伤组织提取物中4种多酚含量测定及抗氧化、抗炎活性研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(1): 57-64.
[10]	宋青梅, 杜丰. 超高效液相色谱法测定口腔护理产品中异噻唑啉酮类含量[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(9): 1108-1114.
[11]	冯利,邹柏松. 高效液相色谱法同时测定丹芝防晒霜SFP50中11种成分含量[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(8): 968-975.
[12]	王虹丹,胥维昌,王远,孔祥文,孙丽娟. HPLC-ELSD法测定积雪草中积雪草苷及羟基积雪草苷的含量[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(8): 976-980.
[13]	章欣,霍永丽. 超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法测定化妆品中乳糖酸等8种有机酸[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(8): 981-988.
[14]	刘真, 王玉梅, 杨军丽, 孙小杰. UPLC-MS/MS法测定精油类化妆品中13种双酚类及烷基酚类环境激素[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(7): 826-832.
[15]	刘英, 林敏, 戴思芮. HPLC-QAMS法同时测定何首乌防脱育发精华液中9种成分含量[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(7): 841-848.