基于数据库可视化分析发酵源化妆品的应用与发展

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.010

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

近五年随着消费者对“天然、绿色、安全”化妆品的关注度日益提高，发酵源化妆品的开发得到了长足发展。对于发酵源化妆品原料的开发，中外研究人员从不同角度入手，提高了相关发酵产物的活性、产量以及有效成分的含量。文章基于中国知网（CNKI）数据库以及Web of Science核心数据库，借助文献计量方法和知识图谱可视化软件VOSviewer，以“化妆品”、“发酵”、“cosmetic”、“fermentation”或“fermented”为关键词构建近五年发酵源化妆品文献库，根据可视化分析知识图谱中的关键词共现频率分析近期发酵源化妆品领域的研究热点，并对目前化妆品相关的发酵菌种、发酵产物及功效宣称进行了汇总分析，同时对未来发酵源化妆品的发展与研发提出展望，为发酵源化妆品领域研究提供理论基础。

关键词: 发酵源化妆品, 发酵菌种, 发酵产物, VOSviewer

Abstract:

As the attention of consumers to the “natural, green and safe” cosmetics is increasing, the development of fermentation cosmetics has made great progress in the past five years. Thanks to various research methods, domestic and foreign researchers have effectively improved the activity and content of active ingredients in fermentation products. With the help of bibliometric methods and knowledge graph visualization software named VOSviewer, this paper analyzed the literatures from 2018 to 2023 in CNKI database and Web of Science core database. A database in the field of fermentation-source cosmetic were established, taking “cosmetic” and “fermentation” or “fermented” as the key words. According to the knowledge graph, the results were summarized to introduce the development of fermentation cosmetics during the past five years. Diverse fermentation strains and products are classified, and so is the efficacy of raw materials after fermentation. While analyzing the visualization graph, more importance is attached to fermentation strains, especially Saccharomyces cerevisiae for producing some relative cosmetic raw materials. In addition, other parts like fermentation production and product efficacy are mentioned to review the past-five-year achievements. Moreover, the development of future fermentation cosmetics is prospected in this paper. In the near future, fermented cosmetics raw materials will be used more and more frequently. With characteristics and advantages, green, eco-friendly and easy-to-obtain, fermentation cosmetics will eventually be developed during future researches.

Key words: fermentation cosmetics, strains, fermentation production, VOSviewer

中图分类号:

TQ658

华中杰, 茅文瑄, 狄飞倩, 张佳婵, 王昌涛. 基于数据库可视化分析发酵源化妆品的应用与发展[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(4): 439-448.

Zhongjie Hua, Wenxuan Mao, Feiqian Di, Jiachan Zhang, Changtao Wang. A review on application and development of fermentation cosmetics based on database visualization[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(4): 439-448.

图/表 5

表 1

图1

表2

表 3

表 4

参考文献 54

[1]	Fu Hao, Wu Di, Bing Xue, et al. Study on the skin care effect of oat β-glucan extracted by bidirectional fermentation[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51 (4) : 324-330.
[2]	Liu Ting, Yao Lingyun, Wang Caixia, et al. Research progress on application of biological fermentation technology in cosmetics[J]. Flavour Frangrance Cosmetics, 2021, 186 (3) : 114-119.
[3]	Wang Qian, He Congfen, Yu Xiaoqian, et al. Current situation of application and safety supervision of fermentative ingredients in cosmetics in China[J]. Journal of Environmental Hygiene, 2022, 12 (6) : 436-442.
[4]	Fu Hao, Liu Pingping, Zhu Jianfeng, et al. Isolation and purification of yeast polypeptides and efficacy of cosmetics[J]. Hubei Agricultural Science, 2020, 59 (7) : 184-187, 217.
[5]	Liu Pingping, Yu Dan, Wang Changtao, et al. Optimization of microbial fermentation extraction process of Panax notoginseng and evaluation of its anti-inflammatory effect[J]. Food Research and Development, 2019, 40 (18) : 71-78, 83.
[6]	Su Ning, Liu Hongmei, Liu Juan, et al. Preparation, efficacy and safety research of fermented rhodiola liquid cosmetic[J]. Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics, 2017 (2) : 44-48.
[7]	Liu Pingping, Xu Danni, Zhao Dan, et al. Study on the skin care efficacy and safety of the grape-seed fermentation liquid[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51 (3) : 200-207.
[8]	Tan Jingyu, Peng Yu, Zhang Haibo, et al. Study on skin whitening and moisturizing effects of rice fermentation filtrate[J]. Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics, 2020 (3) : 50-55.
[9]	Tao Hongbing, Yang Juan, Deng Xiaofeng, et al. Optimization of fermentation process for gentian ferment and analysis of its biochemical efficacy[J]. Industrial Microbiology, 2021, 51 (3) : 27-30.
[10]	Yu Dan, Wang Changtao, Zhao Dan, et al. Analysis of active substances in ginseng fermentation broth and study on its efficacy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2018, 48 (2) : 94-98.
[11]	Wu Di, Liu Pingping, Li Meng, et al. Evaluation of antioxidant and anti-aging effect of pueraria water extracts and pueraria fermentation broth in vitro[J]. Science and Technology of Food Industry, 2019, 40 (12) : 285-290, 294.
[12]	Xu Danni, Liu Pingping, Su Ning, et al. Study on the contents of active ingredients and cosmetic efficacy of Portulaca oleracea L. fermentation liquor[J]. Hubei Agricultural Sciences, 2017, 56 (5) : 924-926.
[13]	You Shiquan, Wang Changtao, Zhang Jiachan, et al. Preliminary purification and anti-aging activity evaluation of total flavonoids prepared from sea-buckthorn seed meal by fermentation[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49 (10) : 661-667.
[14]	Zhao Dan, Wang Changtao, Li Meng, et al. Research on the anti-aging effect and safety of fermented Lycium ruthenicum broth[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51 (8) : 761-767.
[15]	Zhao Dan, Cao Yunfeng, Ding Wenyu, et al. Study on the antioxidant and whitening effect of rose fermented broth[J]. Food & Machinery, 2017, 33 (9) : 141-145, 196.
[16]	Wang Yahui. Optimization of preparation conditions and whitening activity of fermentation broth of Ganoderma lucidum[D]. Beijing: Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences, 2020.
[17]	Liu Huayi, Tian Yujuan, Zhou Yi, et al. Multi-modular engineering of Saccharomyces cerevisiae for high-titre production of tyrosol and salidroside[J]. Microbial Biotechnology, 2021, 14 (6) : 2605-2616. doi: 10.1111/mbt2.v14.6
[18]	Shi Bin, Ma Tian, Ye Ziling, et al. Systematic metabolic engineering of Saccharomyces cerevisiae for lycopene overproduction[J]. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, 2019, 67 (40) : 11148-11157. doi: 10.1021/acs.jafc.9b04519 pmid: 31532654
[19]	Wang Jianxin. Introduction to natural ingredients of cosmetics (ⅩⅩⅣ)[J]. Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 44 (11) : 57-60.
[20]	Xie Hui, Wang Fengqing, Wei Dongzhi. Molecular mechanism revealed by proteomic differences of Aspergillus niger with high yield citric acid[J]. China Brewing, 2018, 37 (7) : 138-144.
[21]	Zhao Dan, Xu Danni, Wang Dongdong, et al. Analysis of fermentation liquor of Ganoderma lucidum and evaluation of its whitening and anti-senility efficacy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2016, 46 (4) : 226-230, 242.
[22]	Cheng Wenjing, Shi Xiuqin, Zhang Jiachan, et al. Role of PI3K-AKT pathway in ultraviolet ray and hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative damage and its repair by grain ferments[J]. Foods (Basel, Switzerland), 2023, 12 (4) : 806.
[23]	Wang Qian, Zhang Jiachan, Wang Changtao, et al. Effects of C/N ratio on the changes of active substances and antioxidant capacity of fungus fermented mulberry—oat bran[J]. Science and Technology of Food Industry, 2019, 40 (2) : 93-99, 106.
[24]	Zhang Jing, Qiu Wei, Huang Yue, et al. Inhibitory effect of lactobacillus plantarum KFY02 fermented lemon juice on obesity and intestinal regulation in mice fed with high-fat diet[J]. Science and Technology of Food Industry, 2021, 42 (24) : 354-362.
[25]	Bu Xiao, Xue Xue, Cheng Jing, et al. Evaluation on malolactic fermentation potential of wine lactobacillus plantarum[J]. Scientia Agricultura Sinica, 2017, 50 (5) : 959-968. doi: 10.3864/j.issn.0578-1752.2017.05.019
[26]	Gao He. Effects of Lactobacillus plantarum fermentation on the physicochemical properties and anti-diabetic activities of Momordica charantia and its polysaccharides[D]. Nanchang: Nanchang University, 2019.
[27]	Zhang Lihua, Wang Xiaoyuan, Liu Mengpei, et al. Optimization of technological conditions and antioxidant activity in vitro of jujube juice by Lactobacillus plantarum fermented[J]. Journal of Chinese Institute of Food Science and Technology, 2019, 19 (1) : 83-88.
[28]	Li Hongfu, Yang Xinyan, Liu Xinyu, et al. Fermentation process optimization of blueberry juice fermented by Lactobacillus plantarum and analysis of antioxidant capacity[J]. Science and Technology of Food Industry, 2019, 40 (17) : 127-133.
[29]	Yu Jinhui, Ma Deyuan, Liu Yunpeng, et al. Preliminary study on effect of Lactobacillus fermentation on the main functional components of spirulina platensis[J]. Science and Technology of Food Industry, 2019, 40 (18) : 85-90, 96.
[30]	Zhao Wenting, Peng Yu, Wang Huan, et al. Skin repairing effect of ginseng fermentation filtrate[J]. Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics, 2021 (6) : 36-39.
[31]	Sheng Jie. Medium optimization of γ-polyglutamic acid produced by Bacillus amyloliquefaciens fmbj37 and application[D]. Nanjing: Nanjing Agricultural University, 2019.
[32]	Neela Gayathri Ganesan, Vivek Rangarajan. A kinetics study on surfactin production from Bacillus subtilis MTCC 2415 for application in green cosmetics[J]. Biocatalysis and Agricultural Biotechnology, 2021, 33: 102001. doi: 10.1016/j.bcab.2021.102001
[33]	Hu Litao, Wang Yang, Li Jialian, et al. Metabolic engineering of Corynebacterium glutamicum for hyaluronic acid production[J]. Food and Fermentation Industries, 2020, 46 (18) : 1-7. doi: 10.13995/j.cnki.11-1802/ts.023858
[34]	Kim Ji Eun, Kim Jung Seok, Song Young Cheol, et al. Novel bioconversion of sodium glutamate to gamma-poly-glutamic acid and gamma-amino butyric acid in a mixed fermentation using Bacillus subtilis HA and Lactobacillus plantarum K154[J]. Food Science and Biotechnology, 2014, 23 (5) : 1551-1559. doi: 10.1007/s10068-014-0211-4
[35]	Hirasawa Takashi, Shimoyamada Yuki, Tachikawa Yukio, et al. Ergothioneine production by Corynebacterium glutamicum harboring heterologous biosynthesis pathways[J]. Journal of Bioscience and Bioengineering, 2023, 135 (1) : 25-33. doi: 10.1016/j.jbiosc.2022.10.002
[36]	Doronina N V, Ezhov V A, Beschastnyi A P, et al. Biosynthesis of the bioprotectant ectoin by aerobic methylotrophic bacteria from methanol[J]. Applied Biochemistry and Microbiology, 2010, 46 (2) : 173-176. doi: 10.1134/S0003683810020080
[37]	Zhang Yuzhi, Zhao Dan, Wang Dongdong, et al. Study on the activity of flavonoids in the fermentation broth of Chinese wolfberry branches[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52 (4) : 390-395.
[38]	Lee Sunmin, Reddy Chagam Koteswara, Ryu Jeoung Jin, et al. Solid-state fermentation with Aspergillus cristatus enhances the protopanaxadiol-and protopanaxatriol-associated skin anti-aging activity of Panax notoginseng[J]. Frontiers in Microbiology, 2021, 12: 602135. doi: 10.3389/fmicb.2021.602135
[39]	Zhang Yongtao, Zhao Jingsha, Jiang Yanbing, et al. Bacillus amyloliquefaciens lysate ameliorates photoaging of human skin fibroblasts through NRF2/KEAP1 and TGF-β/SMAD signaling pathways[J]. Applied Sciences, 2022, 12 (18) : 9151. doi: 10.3390/app12189151
[40]	Xue Wei. Strain screening and optimization of fermentation medium for higher production of hyaluronidase[D]. Jinan: Shandong University, 2015.
[41]	Song Lei. Studies on Streptococcus zooepidemicus fermentation for hyaluronic acid[D]. Jinan: Shandong Institute of Light Industry, 2012.
[42]	Kim Misun, Heo Sang Taek, Oh Hyunjoo, et al. Human zoonotic infectious disease caused by Streptococcus equi subsp. zooepidemicus[J]. Zoonoses and Public Health, 2022, 69 (2) : 136-142. doi: 10.1111/zph.v69.2
[43]	Huang Kai. Study on the extraction process and properties of hyaluronic acid produced by Paecilomyces cicadae[D]. Guiyang: Guizhou University, 2009.
[44]	Deng Xingbo, Zou Shuiyang, Zhu Dan, et al. Study on moisture retention capacity of γ-polyglutamic acid[J]. Guangzhou Chemical Industry, 2019, 47 (6) : 33-35.
[45]	Wang Xuexue, Li Sha, Ren Zhankun, et al. Antioxidation of poly-(γ-glutamic acid) and repair of photoaging fibroblasts induced by UV radiation[J]. Chinese Journal of Bioprocess Engineering, 2020, 18 (5) : 561-566.
[46]	Zhang Xiaona, Xu Heran, Hua Jinglin, et al. The biological function and application of ergothioneine in cosmetic efficacy raw materials[J]. Modern Chemical Research, 2021 (16) : 154-158.
[47]	Cheah Irwin K, Halliwell Barry. Ergothioneine, recent developments[J]. Redox Biology, 2021, 42: 101868. doi: 10.1016/j.redox.2021.101868
[48]	Cheng Wenjing, An Quan, Zhang Jiachan, et al. Protective effect of ectoin on UVA/H₂O₂-induced oxidative damage in human skin fibroblast cells[J]. Applied Sciences-Basel, 2022, 12 (17) : 8531.
[49]	Wang Yuling, Ren Shujing, Wu Yue, et al. Study on the anti-photoaging effect of a new composite of hyaluronic acid and ectoine[J]. Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 45 (7) : 51-56.
[50]	Gu Feiyan. Extraction of β-glucan from highland barley and its application in cosmetics[D]. Shanghai: Shanghai University of Applied Technology, 2018.
[51]	Sun Qianru, Fang Jiaxuan, Wang Ziwen, et al. Two Laminaria japonica fermentation broths alleviate oxidative stress and inflammatory response caused by UVB damage: photoprotective and reparative effects[J]. Marine Drugs, 2022, 20 (10) : 650. doi: 10.3390/md20100650
[52]	Zhu Yonggang, Wang Lanzhi, Wang Yanhui. Study on the application of morchella fermentation broth in cosmetics[J]. Journal of Qilu University of Technology, 2020, 34 (2) : 1-4.
[53]	Yang Xing, Zhuo Shanshan, Qiu Zhiyong. Clinical test to evaluate the effect of Difid yeast in repairing and nourishing scalp[J]. Guangdong Chemical Industry, 2021, 48 (16) : 261-262.
[54]	Shi Xiuqin, Cheng Wenjing, Wang Qian, et al. Exploring the protective and reparative mechanisms of G. lucidum polysaccharides against H₂O₂-induced oxidative stress in human skin fibroblasts[J]. Clinical Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2021, 14: 1481-1496. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S334527 pmid: 34703264

数据库来源	时间范围	研究类文献数量/篇	综述类文献数量/篇	总共/篇
中国知网（CNKI）	2018年至2023年2月	596	35	620
Web of Science	2018年至2023年2月	3 677	348	3 754

功效	菌种名	发酵底物	作用对象	年份/年	文献
保湿	酿酒酵母	糯米	大米发酵液	2020	[8]
抗敏	酿酒酵母CGMCC 2.3853	龙胆草	龙胆酵素	2021	[9]
抗炎	红酒酵母	葡萄籽	葡萄籽发酵液	2021	[7]
抗炎	黄酒酵母	人参	人参发酵液	2018	[10]
抗氧化	红酒酵母	葡萄籽	葡萄籽发酵液	2017	[7]
	黄酒酵母	红景天根	红景天发酵原浆	2017	[6]
		人参	人参发酵液	2018	[10]
		葛根	葛根发酵液	2019	[11]
		马齿苋	马齿苋发酵液	2017	[12]
	啤酒酵母	沙棘籽粕	沙棘籽粕发酵液	2019	[13]
	酿酒酵母CGMCC 2.3853	龙胆草	龙胆酵素	2021	[9]
	酿酒酵母	黑枸杞	黑枸杞发酵液	2021	[14]
		大马士革玫瑰	玫瑰发酵液	2017	[15]
		中华红芝	灵芝三萜和多糖	2020	[16]
美白	黄酒酵母	红景天根	红景天发酵原浆	2017	[6]
	黄酒酵母	马齿苋	马齿苋发酵液	2017	[12]
	酿酒酵母	大马士革玫瑰	玫瑰发酵液	2017	[15]
		糯米	大米发酵液	2020	[8]
		中华红芝	灵芝三萜和多糖	2020	[16]

菌种名	发酵底物	作用对象	功效研究方向	年份/年	文献
植物乳杆菌KFY02	柠檬汁	柠檬发酵液	促进脂代谢	2021	[24]
植物乳杆菌CS-1、XJ-14、XJ-25、XJA-2	葡萄汁	葡萄汁发酵液	降酸增香	2017	[25]
植物乳杆菌NCU116	苦瓜	苦瓜多糖	抗炎	2019	[26]
植物乳杆菌GIM1.191	红枣	红枣发酵液	抗氧化	2019	[27]
植物乳杆菌LJ26	蓝莓	蓝莓果汁	抗氧化	2019	[28]
植物乳杆菌	螺旋藻	螺旋藻发酵液的活性成分	抗氧化	2019	[29]
干酪乳杆菌
嗜酸乳杆菌
植物乳杆菌	人参粉	人参发酵液的活性物质	抗氧化、修复、免疫调节	2021	[30]

产物	菌种	功效	微生物分类	拉丁名	年份/年	文献
透明质酸	谷氨酸棒杆菌	保湿	细菌	Corynebacterium glutamicum ATCC13032	2020	[33]
γ-聚谷氨酸	枯草芽孢杆菌	保湿	细菌	Bacillus subtilis HA	2014	[34]
麦角硫因	谷氨酸棒杆菌	抗氧化、美白	细菌	Corynebacterium glutamicum	2022	[35]
依克多因	噬甲基菌	抗光老化	细菌	Methylophaga thalassica	2010	[36]
燕麦β-葡聚糖	黄伞	美白	真菌	Pholiota adiposa	2021	[1]
	大杯伞			Clitocybe maxima
	灰树花			Grifola frondose
枸杞枝发酵液	德氏乳杆菌	抗氧化、抗炎	细菌	Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp.	2022	[37]
三七发酵液	冠突曲霉	抗氧化、美白、抗炎	真菌	Aspergillus cristatus Cosmax-GF	2021	[38]
淀粉芽孢杆菌裂解物	芽孢杆菌	抗光老化	细菌	Bacillus amyloliquefaciens lysate	2021	[39]
黑枸杞发酵液	酿酒酵母	抗氧化	真菌	Saccharomyces cerevisiae	2021	[13]