化妆品功效评价（XI）——体外试验技术在发用化妆品功效评价中的应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.01.002

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

综述了针对头发纤维的生物物理学仪器分析技术和针对头皮的体外生物学模型在发用化妆品功效评价中的应用,为发用化妆品进行功效评价时体外方法的选择提供了参考和指导,并对目前发用化妆品体外评价技术的现状和发展趋势进行了总结和展望。

Abstract:

The biophysical instrumental analysis techniques for hair fibers and the in vitro biological models for scalp were introduced as in vitro techniques applied in the efficacy evaluation of hair cosmetics. The paper is estimated to provide reference and guidance for the selection of appropriate in vitro methods to evaluate the performance of various hair cosmetics. The current status and development trends of in vitro evaluation technology for hair cosmetics were summarized and prospected.

Key words: hair cosmetics, in vitro methods, efficacy evaluation, hair fiber, scalp

中图分类号:

TQ658.3

何文丹,刘磊,杨舒颜,唐颖. 化妆品功效评价（XI）——体外试验技术在发用化妆品功效评价中的应用[J]. 日用化学工业, 2019, 49(1): 5-7.

Wen-dan HE,Lei LIU,Shu-yan YANG,Ying TANG. Efficacy evaluation of cosmetics （XI）Application of in vitro techniques in the efficacy evaluation of hair cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49(1): 5-7.

图/表 1

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试验技术/模型	检测指标	评价功效	参考文献
扫描电子显微镜	毛发表面的微观形貌	染色、清洁、防晒、修复	[3-5]
透射电子显微镜	毛发内部微观结构	染色、防晒、修复	[4, 6, 7]
原子力显微镜	毛发表面和内部微观结构毛发表面粗糙度、摩擦力、附着力	防晒、修复清洁、修复、定型	[8-10]
光学相干断层扫描	毛发表面和内部微观结构	染色、防晒、修复	[12, 13]
紫外可见光谱	生色团变化	染色、固色、修复	[5, 14-16]
荧光光谱	蛋白质损失	防晒、修复	[5, 14, 17]
傅里叶变换红外光谱	官能团变化	染色、防晒、修复	[14, 18, 48]
拉曼光谱	官能团变化	染色、防晒、修复	[19-23]
质谱	蛋白质修饰和损失	防晒、修复	[24]
色谱	蛋白质损失	防晒、修复	[26, 27]
扫描差热分析法	角蛋白变性温度、变性晗	防晒、修复	[28, 29]
拉伸性分析	拉伸强度、断裂应力	修复、定型	[32]
摩擦力测试	摩擦系数	修复、梳理	[35]
毛发梳理性	梳理功	修复、梳理	[37]
细胞模型（HaCaT和DP）黑色素细胞	细胞增殖、基因表达黑色素含量	育发固色	[42, 49]
离体毛囊培养系统	毛发生长速率、毛发生长期	育发	[47]
微生物模型（马拉色菌）	抑菌能力	抗菌、去屑	[44, 46, 50]