用于化妆品功效评价的皮肤细胞类型、特点及应用概况

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.009

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

综述了角质形成细胞（KC和HaCaT）、黑素细胞（MC）、小鼠黑色素瘤细胞（B-16）、单核巨噬细胞（THP-1）以及人皮肤成纤维细胞（HSF）的特点以及在化妆品功效评价中的应用,总结了各种细胞应用于不同类型化妆品功效评价时的常用检测指标,并对这几种皮肤细胞的特点与体外培养时的优缺点进行了分析,以期对其在化妆品原料功效评价中的应用提供理论基础。

关键词: 皮肤细胞, 化妆品, 功效评价

Abstract:

The characteristics of keratinocytes （KC and HaCaT）, melanocytes （MC）, mouse melanoma cells （B-16） , mononuclear macrophages （THP-1） and human skin fibroblasts （HSF） were reviewed, as well as their applications in cosmetic efficacy evaluation. The commonly used detection indexes for evaluating the efficacy of different types of cosmetics by use of these cells were summarized. The characteristics of these skin cells and their advantages and disadvantages in vitro culture were analyzed, which might provide a theoretical basis for evaluating the efficacy of cosmetic raw materials.

Key words: skin cell, cosmetic, efficacy evaluation

中图分类号:

TQ658

马宇晨,刘蕾,何聪芬. 用于化妆品功效评价的皮肤细胞类型、特点及应用概况[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(1): 50-55.

MA Yu-chen,LIU Lei,HE Cong-fen. Types, characteristics and application of the skin cells used in cosmetic efficacy evaluation[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(1): 50-55.

图/表 4

表1

表2

表3

表4

参考文献 42

[1]	Guan Yingjie, Wei Shaomin, Jin Xipeng. Application of skin cell culture technique in the study of cosmetic efficacy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2002 (5) : 44-46.
[2]	Wang Yan. Keratinocytes and cytokines[J]. Chinese Journal of Leprosy Dermatology, 2004 (1) : 64-65.
[3]	Wan Yifeng, Jiang Xian. Keratinocytes and skin immune barrier[J]. Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2012,41(11) : 708-710.
[4]	Guo Songhe, Gao Heyi, Zeng Sa, et al. Research progress on efficacy evaluation methods of anti-aging cosmetics at cell level in vitro[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2016,46(2) : 114-117.
[5]	Jeong D, Lee J, Jeong S G, et al. Artemisia asiatica ethanol extract exhibits anti-photoaging activity[J]. J. Ethnopharmacol, 2018,220: 57-66. doi: 10.1016/j.jep.2018.03.037 pmid: 29609010
[6]	Li Xiaodi. Moisturizing properties of hyaluronic acid and its application in cosmetics[J]. Flavor Fragrance Cosmetics, 1997 (3) : 19-22.
[7]	Zheng Xueling, Wang Fengshan, Ling Peixue. Research progress of hyaluronic acid synthase[J]. Pharmaceutical Biotechnology, 2004 (6) : 413-416.
[8]	Choi Y J, Park I S, Kim M H, et al. The medicinal mushroom Auricularia auricula-judae (Bull.) extract has antioxidant activity and promotes procollagen biosynjournal in HaCaT cells[J]. Nat. Prod. Res., 2018: 1-4. pmid: 33397147
[9]	Verdier-Sevrain S, Bonte F. Skin hydration: a review on its molecular mechanisms[J]. J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 2007,6(2) : 75-82. doi: 10.1111/j.1473-2165.2007.00300.x pmid: 17524122
[10]	Tokumasu R, Tamura A, Tsukita S. Time- and dose-dependent claudin contribution to biological functions: Lessons from claudin-1 in skin[J]. Tissue Barriers, 2017,5(3) : 1336194.
[11]	Xie Yuhan, Xu Xuefei, Yang Shuran, et al. The function of filaggrin and its research progress in cosmetics[J]. Chinese Cosmetics, 2014 (8) : 74-76.
[12]	Feng Bing, Wu Yue, Zhao Ya, et al. Study on the cosmetic effect of Dendrobium nobile compound at cellular level[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2014,44(10) : 568-571.
[13]	Dai Xiaoyang, Qing Chen. Relationship between cellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and tumorigenesis and intervention[J]. Chinese Ethnic Folk Medicine, 2011,20(6) : 7-8.
[14]	Peng Lu, Jin Xin, Li Zhiqun, et al. Comparison of antioxidant effects of different ethanol extracts of Eucommia ulmoides on HaCaT cells and its antioxidant mechanism[J]. Chinese Journal of Biochemical Drugs, 2016,36(1) : 23-27.
[15]	Borgstahl G, Oberley-Deegan R. Superoxide dismutases (SODs) and SOD mimetics[J]. Antioxidants, 2018,7(11) : 156. doi: 10.3390/antiox7110156
[16]	Kodydková J, Vávrová L, Kocík M, et al. Human catalase, its polymorphisms, regulation and changes of its activity in different diseases[J]. Folia Biol. (Praha), 2014,60: 153-167.
[17]	Margis R, Dunand C, Teixeira F K, et al. Glutathione peroxidase family-an evolutionary overview[J]. FEBS J., 2008,275(15) : 3959-3970. doi: 10.1111/j.1742-4658.2008.06542.x pmid: 18616466
[18]	Wang Liwen, Sun Juan, Yan Hualing, et al. Water extract of Saussurea involucrata attenuates apoptosis of HaCaT cells induced by UVB radiation in vitro[J]. Journal of Practical Medicine, 2016,32(8) : 1240-1243.
[19]	Bu Li. Study on the method of screening antioxidants by many kinds of cells[D]. Guangzhou: Guangdong College of Pharmacy, 2013.
[20]	Eunji K, Kyeonghwan H, Jongsung L, et al. Skin protective effect of epigallocatechin gallate[J]. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 2018,19(1) : 173. doi: 10.3390/ijms19010173
[21]	Baswan S M, Leverett J, Pawelek J. Clinical evaluation of the lightening effect of cytidine on hyperpigmented skin[J]. J. Cosmet. Dermatol., 2019,18(1) : 278-285. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12784 pmid: 30291682
[22]	Zhang Bingxin. Effects of retinoic acid on mouse B16 melanoma cells and normal human melanocytes[D]. Tianjin: Tianjin Medical University, 2002.
[23]	Schneider M, Rother S, Moller S, et al. Sulfated hyaluronan-containing artificial extracellular matrices promote proliferation of keratinocytes and melanotic phenotype of melanocytes from the outer root sheath of hair follicles[J]. J. Biomed. Mater. Res. A., 2019,107(8) : 1640-1653. doi: 10.1002/jbm.a.36680 pmid: 30916871
[24]	Li Xin, Li Bing, Sun Guifan. Combined effect of arsenic and ultraviolet on pigment metabolism of human melanoma G361 cell line[J]. Journal of China Medical University, 2007 (6) : 668-670.
[25]	Deng Guojie. The efficacy of whitening cosmetics and the application strategy of related evaluation[J]. Chemical Design Newsletter, 2019,45(6) : 262-263.
[26]	Dong Jingwen, Li Wenxia, Zhong Xin, et al. Evaluation of whitening efficacy of five VC derivatives[C]. Shanghai, China, 2016.
[27]	Chanput W, Mes J J, Wichers H J. THP-1 cell line: an in vitro cell model for immune modulation approach[J]. Int. Immunopharmacol, 2014,23(1) : 37-45. doi: 10.1016/j.intimp.2014.08.002
[28]	Chen C C, Yan S H, Yen M Y, et al. Investigations of kanuka and manuka essential oils for in vitro treatment of disease and cellular inflammation caused by infectious microorganisms[J]. J. Microbiol. Immunol. Infect., 2016,49(1) : 104-111. doi: 10.1016/j.jmii.2013.12.009 pmid: 24582465
[29]	Wu Yanhong, Deng Anyan, Li Xiaohong, et al. Isolation, culture and identification of human skin fibroblasts[J]. Sichuan Journal of Physiological Sciences, 2013,35(4) : 150-152.
[30]	Cong Jing, Wu Jingdong. Research progress of aging skin fibroblasts[J]. Chinese Journal of Aesthetic Medicine, 2009,18(5) : 736-738.
[31]	Wang Xiaohua, Wang Yang, Jiang Tao, et al. Primary culture and biological characteristics of human skin fibroblasts[J]. Journal of China Medical University, 2010,39(12) : 1041-1044.
[32]	Qu Guangnan, Feng Ying, Jiang Shuang, et al. Study on fibroblasts in the repair of skin injury[J]. Jilin Agriculture, 2018 (18) : 45-46.
[33]	Deng M, Li D, Zhang Y, et al. Protective effect of crocin on ultraviolet Binduced dermal fibroblast photoaging[J]. Mol. Med. Rep., 2018,18(2) : 1439-1446. doi: 10.3892/mmr.2018.9150 pmid: 29901204
[34]	Xia Jiping, Song Xiuzu, Bi Zhigang. Effects of ultraviolet radiation on the production of MMP-1 and MMP-3 by skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts[J]. Chinese Journal of Leprosy and Skin Diseases, 2006 (1) : 11-13.
[35]	Wu Yongxiang, Wu Liping, Wang Weidong, et al. Antioxidation and repair effects of polyphenols from mulberry bark on photoaging of fibroblasts induced by UV radiation[J]. Food and Machinery, 2018,34(2) : 15-18.
[36]	Zhu Ling. Study on the application of cell culture in the efficacy evaluation of cosmetics[D]. Shanghai: Shanghai Institute of Technology, 2014.
[37]	Varma S, Orgel J P, Schieber J D. Nanomechanics of type I collagen[J]. Biophys. J., 2016,111(1) : 50-56. doi: 10.1016/j.bpj.2016.05.038 pmid: 27410733
[38]	Liu Yinkang, Zhang Gensheng, Huang Guozhong, et al. HDF and HUVEC cell models were used to evaluate the anti-aging and anti-inflammatory effects of four kinds of bee venom in vitro[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019,549(10) : 668-673.
[39]	Gao Xuejun, Cai Xia, Zhang Peng, et al. Changes of β-galactosidase in fibroblasts cultured in vitro[J]. Acta Academiae Medicinae Weifang, 2004 (2) : 87-89.
[40]	Wang Fenglou. Study on anti-aging of many kinds of natural products and their application in eye cream[D]. Shanghai: Shanghai Institute of Technology, 2015.
[41]	He Peng, Zhao Junning, Gou Maling, et al. Preparation of tetrahydrocurcumin polyethylene glycol-polylactic acid block copolymer nanoparticles and its effect on fibroblasts to promote wound healing[J]. Pharmacology and Clinics of Chinese Materia Medica, 2017,33(6) : 41-45.
[42]	Weng Liang, Zhou Qiuli, Wang Lijuan, et al. Pilose antler polypeptide promotes the proliferation of epidermis and fibroblasts and skin wound healing[J]. Acta Pharmaceutica Sinica, 2001 (11) : 817-820. pmid: 3257035

细胞类型	位置	特点	优点	缺点	替代细胞	功效评价类型及检测指标
KC	表皮层	可产生大量细胞因子、粘多糖和细胞角蛋白等物质,以维持皮肤的渗透作用及屏障功能	生长较快、细胞存活率较高	易老化,传代次数较少	HaCaT	保湿功效评价：AQP3、TJP、FLG、HAS
KC	表皮层	可产生大量细胞因子、粘多糖和细胞角蛋白等物质,以维持皮肤的渗透作用及屏障功能	生长较快、细胞存活率较高	易老化,传代次数较少	HaCaT	抗氧化功效评价：ROS、SOD、CAT、GSHPX、MDA、caspase

细胞类型	位置	特点	优点	缺点	功效评价类型及检测指标
HSF	真皮层	具有蛋白质合成能力,真皮层最主要细胞	分布广泛、取材方便,对机体损伤较小、体外培养容易成活、增殖较快	易老化,传代次数较少	抗衰老功效评价：细胞增殖、ROS、SOD、CAT、GSHPX、Ⅰ型胶原蛋白、MMP、β-半乳糖苷酶
HSF	真皮层	具有蛋白质合成能力,真皮层最主要细胞	分布广泛、取材方便,对机体损伤较小、体外培养容易成活、增殖较快	易老化,传代次数较少	创面愈合：HSF迁移率、DNA