关键词: 舒缓化妆品, 皮肤刺激状态, 功效评价, 敏感皮肤

Abstract:

Under the influence of factors such as the aggravation of environmental pollution and changes in skincare and beauty habits, skin irritation occurs more frequently. Starting from the symptoms perceived by consumers, which mainly include erythema, itching, burning sensation, tightness, dryness, pain and other skin irritation states, this article reviews the possible mechanism and process, and sorts out the efficacy evaluation methods. At present, a variety of evaluation methods applied to food, medicine, clinical efficacy research and other fields have been reported, while there are few related reviews on soothing cosmetics efficacy. In this article, on the basis of the mechanism of triggering the skin irritation states, we review various evaluation methods on three pathways of skin inflammatory response, skin barrier and neural response, which are divided into laboratory tests （including biochemical methods, cell biological methods, three-dimensional recombinant skin models, animal and the animal alternative experiment methods）, consumer use testing and human efficacy evaluation tests （including subjective, semi-subjective and objective instrumental evaluation methods）, and overview their applications in efficacy evaluation of cosmetics, expecting to provide new ideas of scientific efficacy evaluation for soothing cosmetics.

Key words: soothing cosmetics, skin irritation, efficacy evaluation, sensitive skin