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2023年, 第53卷, 第7期　刊出日期：2023-07-22 上一期    下一期

基础研究

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无机盐KCl对离子型表面活性剂泡沫演化规律研究 Study on the inf luence of KCl on the evolution of foam of an anionic surfactant 强学峰, 张莉, 郑斌, 侯倩倩, 燕坤 2023 (7):  733-741.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.001 摘要 ( 208 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF(1991KB) ( 491 )   泡沫广泛应用在很多的领域，比如食品、化妆品、医药和矿物浮选等方面。无机盐加入到离子型表面活性剂中会影响其在气-液界面的吸附及在溶液中的溶解度，由此会对泡沫的演化过程产生影响，目前无机盐对离子型表面活性剂泡沫演化规律的影响还不清楚。本文系统的研究了在偏低浓度范围内无机盐氯化钾对阴离子表面活性剂十二烷基硫酸钠（SDS）泡沫演化过程的影响，发现当盐和表面活性剂浓度均较小时，所制备的泡沫稳定性与未加盐时类似，为表面活性剂分子稳定的泡沫；随着二者浓度的增大且数值相差不大时，加入的盐离子由于静电作用促进了表面活性剂分子在气-液界面的吸附和结晶，使得泡沫的稳定性比纯表面活性剂泡沫更好，为无机盐增强表面活性剂分子稳定的泡沫；当盐浓度稍微高于表面活性剂浓度时，表面活性剂晶体颗粒吸附在网络状的泡沫上，由于局部晶体破坏了气泡液膜的连续性使得制备的泡沫不稳定，为表面活性剂晶体干扰下表面活性剂分子稳定的泡沫；随着盐浓度继续升高，表面活性剂晶体颗粒完全覆盖在泡沫气-液界面上，通过形成固体颗粒屏障获得超稳定的Pickering泡沫。本论文的研究对进一步探索表面活性剂晶体粒子稳定的泡沫演化理论及其在相关领域的应用具有重要的理论指导意义。 Foams are widely used in many fields, such as food, cosmetics, medicine, and mineral flotation. The addition of inorganic salts to ionic surfactants will affect the adsorption of surfactants at the air-liquid interface and the solubility of surfactants in solution, thus influencing the evolution of foams. At present, the influences of salts on the evolution of foams of ionic surfactants are still not clear. In this work, the influence of potassium chloride （KCl） on the evolution of foam of sodium dodecyl sulfate （SDS） in the low concentration range was systematically studied. It was found that, when the concentrations of salt and surfactant were both low, the stability of the foam prepared was similar to that without salt, in which the foam was stabilized by surfactant molecules; when the concentrations of salt and surfactant were both increased and their concentrations were close to each other, the salt promoted the adsorption and crystallization of surfactant molecules at the air-liquid interface due to electrostatic interaction, making the stability of foam better than that of pure surfactant, in which the foam was stabilized by inorganic-salt enhanced surfactant molecules; when the salt concentration was slightly higher than the surfactant concentration, the surfactant crystal particles adsorbed on the network of foam, and the local crystals destroyed the liquid film of foam, thus making the foam unstable, in which the foam was stabilized by surfactant molecules under the interference of surfactant crystals; when the salt concentration was further increased, the surfactant crystal particles completely covered on the air-liquid interface of foam, and ultra-stable Pickering foam was obtained by forming solid particle barrier. This research work might have important theoretical guiding significance for further exploring the evolution theory of foams stabilized by surfactant crystal particles and their applications in related fields. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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含萘酰亚胺和烷基疏水基的新型表面活性剂合成及性能 Synthesis and properties of novel surfactants containing naphthalimide and alkyl segments 邢环宇, 贾丽华, 赵振龙, 杨瑞, 郭祥峰 2023 (7):  742-747.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.002 摘要 ( 143 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1660KB) ( 166 )   为获得高效多功能表面活性剂，设计并合成了一系列萘酰亚胺和长链烷基为疏水基的新型季铵盐阳离子表面活性剂（CnNDA，n=10，12，14，16代表长链烷基链长），并利用红外光谱（FT-IR）、核磁氢谱（1H NMR）、核磁碳谱（13C NMR）和质谱（HRMS）对其结构进行了表征。研究了CnNDA的表面活性、胶束性质、泡沫及抗菌性能。结果表明，CnNDA具有优异的表面活性和泡沫性能。当疏水烷基链长碳数从10增加到16，其cmc值从1.01降至0.026 mmol/L；0.10 g/L的C14NDA水溶液的泡沫半衰期可达16 h。同时CnNDA具有良好的抗菌活性，C16NDA对大肠杆菌和金黄色葡萄球菌的最低杀菌质量浓度分别为3.0和1.2 μg/mL。另外，1H NMR和荧光光谱研究表明，CnNDA能够形成分子间氢键，且萘酰亚胺基团间形成了π-π堆积。CnNDA的优异性能与上述分子间的相互作用密切相关。该类表面活性剂在杀菌和泡沫等领域具有潜在的应用前景。 A series of novel cationic quaternary ammonium surfactants （CnNDA, n=10, 12, 14 and 16） were designed and synthesized, whose structure had both naphthalimide and long hydrocarbon chain as hydrophobic moieties. Their structures were characterized by FT-IR, 1H NMR, 13C NMR and ESI-MS, and all the synthesized compounds were target products. The surface activity, micellization behavior, foaming ability, foam stability and antibacterial properties were tested. The results showed that, CnNDA showed excellent surface activity and foaming properties. When the carbon number of hydrocarbon chain was increased from 10 to16, the cmc decreased from 1.01 to 0.026 mmol/L; the foam volume of 10 mL aqueous solution of 0.10 g/L C14NDA was 28 mL at 0 min and 26.5 mL at 5 min, and the half-life was 16 h. In addition, CnNDA showed excellent antibacterial activities against E. coli and S. aureus, and the minimum bactericidal mass concentrations for C16NDA were 3.0 and 1.2 μg/mL, respectively. The results of 1H NMR of C12NDA in DMSO-d6 revealed that, the chemical shift of amide proton shifted to the low field by 0.13 with the concentration increased from 3.0 mmol/L to 9.0 mmol/L, indicative of the formation of hydrogen bond by the amido groups. From the fluorescence spectra of different concentrations of C16NDA, it could be found that the fluorescence intensity was decreased and the emission peak was red-shifted by 2 nm when the concentration exceeded cmc, indicative of the π-π stacking between naphthalimide segments. The excellent properties of CnNDA were mainly attributed to the hydrophobic interactions from naphthalimide segments and long alkyl chains, π-π stacking of the adjacent naphthalimide segments, hydrogen bonding of amides groups, and electrostatic interactions. Therefore, they might have potential applications in foam and bactericidal fields. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

科技讲座

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头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅶ）——头发灰白的原因及变黑的方法 Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅶ） The causes of hair graying and the methods to make white hair turn black 方承格, 马玲, 陈殿松, 常宽, 王靖 2023 (7):  748-756.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.003 摘要 ( 234 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF(1824KB) ( 705 )   随着头发灰白年轻化的趋势发展，头发颜色日益成为大众关注的重点。然而头发灰白的确切原因目前还不清楚，在此，本讲座从黑色素（melanin）的合成路径出发，回顾了以往关于头发灰白机制的研究，整理了目前较被认同的两种途径。同时，介绍了天然产物在“白转黑”中的应用潜力，并列举了几种天然黑色物质，如氧化石墨烯、聚多巴胺等在染黑发方面的研究，希望为无毒无危害的染黑剂和促黑产品的开发和应用提供参考。 With the trend of hair graying becoming younger, hair color has increasingly become a focus of public attention. However, currently, the exact cause of hair graying is still unclear. Herein, starting from the synthetic pathway of melanin, previous research on the mechanism of hair graying was reviewed and two recognized pathways were introduced. The application potential of natural products to delay hair graying was also introduced, and several natural black substances such as graphene oxide and polydopamine in the research of hair dying were listed. This review might provide a reference for the development and application of non-toxic and harmless black dyes and hair-graying-prevention products. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

开发与应用

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植物复合舒缓剂（CAP）对外源性皮肤刺激的保护作用 The protection mechanism of multi-herb extract CAP against exogenous cutaneous stimulation 周利丹, 卢伊娜, 杨继峰, 施雪梅, 熊玥, 张磊 2023 (7):  757-764.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.004 摘要 ( 160 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1807KB) ( 406 )   作为抵御外部环境的第一道防线，皮肤不仅是一种物理屏障，而且是一种具有多种免疫细胞的免疫器官。这些免疫细胞在不同的皮肤层中组织结构良好，并与非免疫结构细胞（如角质形成细胞）建立通信网络，参与先天和适应性免疫反应，以确保皮肤免疫稳态。通过探讨皮肤免疫反应的起始感知、初始传递、初级效应阶段下不同类型细胞所产生的关键调节剂来研究植物复合舒缓剂（CAP）对外源性皮肤刺激的潜在保护作用及机制。同时，利用三维（3D）重建的人类表皮模型（EpiKutis）来模拟弱屏障下的皮肤免疫反应研究CAP在组织层面的作用。结果显示，在外源性刺激时，关键免疫调节因子如胸腺基质淋巴细胞生成素（TSLP）、白细胞介素-8（IL-8）、前列腺素E2（PGE-2）、白细胞介素-6（IL-6）和肿瘤坏死因子-α（TNF-α）在角质形成细胞、3D EpiKutis模型、THP-1衍生细胞和肥大细胞中含量均显著升高，而CAP同步处理下可显著降低这些因子的表达量。此外，CAP剂量依赖性地改善由Poly（I:C）和LPS诱导导致的丝聚蛋白降低。结果表明，CAP通过促进皮肤屏障修复，调控皮肤免疫反应的起始、传递和效应阶段发挥重要作用。 The skin contains a myriad of immune cells and acts as the first line of defense system against the external environment both as a physical and immune barrier. The cutaneous immune system begins to work even before birth and continuously evolves throughout the lifetime to achieve optimal function by adapting to environmental cues. This study explored the potential mechanism of multi-herb extract CAP against exogenous cutaneous stimulation and discussed the key modulators that drove productive immune responses in skin epidermis and dermal layer immune cells, including keratinocytes, monocytes, and mast cells. Also, a three-dimensional （3D） reconstructed human epidermis model （EpiKutis） was used to perform relevant assays. CAP reduced the expressions of thymic stromal lymphopoietin （TSLP）, interleukin-8 （IL-8）, prostaglandin E2 （PGE-2）, interleukin-6 （IL-6）, and tumor necrosis factor-alpha （TNF-α） that were increased by exogenous stimuli in keratinocytes, 3D EpiKutis, THP-1- derived cells or mast cells. Furthermore, CAP dose-dependently promoted filaggrin level which was decreased by poly （I:C） and LPS induction. These results suggest that CAP might have regulatory functions on keratinocytes, monocytes, and mast cells, which play important roles on the sense, initial and primary stages of the skin inflammatory reactions, respectively. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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不同酯化度烷基糖苷磺基琥珀酸酯盐的合成与性能 Synthesis and properties of alkyl polyglucoside sulfosuccinate salts with different degrees of esterification 周媛, 杨秀全, 张军, 白亮, 吴志宇 2023 (7):  765-772.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.005 摘要 ( 120 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(1295KB) ( 116 )   运用两步法合成了四种不同酯化度的烷基葡萄糖苷磺基琥珀酸酯盐产品（APGSS）。通过探究时间和反应摩尔比对APGSS收率的影响，确定了不同酯化度APGSS的最佳合成工艺条件。同时探究了不同酯化度APGSS的泡沫性能、乳化性能和润湿性能。结果表明：无论在蒸馏水和硬水中，APGSS的起泡性能均随酯化度的增加而减小，泡沫稳定性能均优于烷基糖苷（APG）；APGSS对油脂类大豆油的乳化性能均优于对矿物油类液体石蜡的乳化性能；随着酯化度的增加，润湿性能逐渐减弱。 Four products of alkyl polyglucoside sulfosuccinates （APGSS） with different degrees of esterification were synthesized by two-step method. The synthesis conditions of APGSS with different degrees of esterification were optimized by investigating the influences of reaction time and molar ratio on the yields of APGSS. In addition, the foaming properties, emulsifying properties and wetting properties of APGSS with different degrees of esterification were investigated. The results showed that, the foaming properties of APGSS decreased with the increase of esterification degree both in distilled water and hard water, and the foam stability thereof was better than that of alkyl polyglucoside （APG）; the emulsifying performance of all APGSS for soybean oil was better than that for liquid paraffin. With the increase of the degree of esterification, the wetting ability gradually decreased. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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轻质原油采出液低温破乳剂优选及作用机理 Optimization and mechanisms of low-temperature demulsifier for produced fluid with light crude oil 田淑杰, 高伟 2023 (7):  773-780.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.006 摘要 ( 112 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF(2014KB) ( 281 )   低渗透油田原油属轻质原油，针对低渗透油田采出轻质原油乳状液破乳难度大，低温（<60 ℃）条件下常规破乳剂破乳效果不佳的问题，根据某油田现场采出液制备模拟乳状液，并分别采用瓶试法、稳定性分析仪研究不同类型破乳剂的破乳效果以及乳状液的微观动力学变化特性，优选出较佳低温破乳剂配方；应用界面流变仪等探讨油水界面黏弹性、油水界面张力、破乳剂在油水界面的动态吸附规律，揭示低温破乳剂的作用机理；最后，分析模拟现场采出乳状液破乳状态，从乳状液脱水率、挂壁程度及破乳剂质量浓度等多个角度综合评价了不同类型破乳剂的低温破乳效果。为低渗透油田采出液低温破乳工艺技术的研发提供了理论及现场应用基础。 The produced fluid with light crude oil from low-permeability oil field has a big problem in demulsification. Conventional demulsifiers have poor demulsification effect at low temperature （<60 ℃）. In this work, the simulated emulsion was prepared according to the produced fluid of an oil field. The demulsification effect of different types of demulsifiers and the microdynamic characteristics of the emulsion were studied by bottle test and stability analyzer, and the best formula of low-temperature demulsifier was selected; the viscoelasticity and interfacial tension of oil-water interface, and the dynamic adsorption law of the demulsifier at oil-water interface were studied by using an interfacial rheometer, and the action mechanism of low-temperature demulsifier was revealed. Finally, the demulsification effects of different types of demulsifiers at low temperature were analyzed from the perspectives of emulsion dehydration rate, adhesion degree and demulsifier mass concentration. It might provide a theoretical and field-application basis for the research and development of low-temperature demulsification technology for the produced fluid from low-permeability oilfield. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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ZnO纳米颗粒的合成及盐酸四环素降解活性研究 Syntheses of ZnO nanoparticles and their degradation activities on tetracycline hydrochloride 章贞阳, 何云阳 2023 (7):  781-788.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.007 摘要 ( 117 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1372KB) ( 122 )   采用溶胶-凝胶法、共沉淀法和水热法合成了C-O官能团嫁接的氧化锌（ZnO）纳米材料。通过X射线粉末衍射仪（XRD）、傅里叶变换红外光谱仪（FTIR）和紫外-可见分光光度计（UV-vis）对其相纯度、有机官能团和紫外吸收能力进行表征。以盐酸四环素为目标降解物，对三种方法合成的ZnO纳米颗粒的光催化活性进行对比研究。三种制备方法均可获得C-O官能团嫁接的ZnO纳米颗粒；红外光谱结果表明样品中除C-O官能团外不含其它有机官能团；紫外-可见漫反射光谱表明目标产物对紫外光具有较强的吸收能力和弱的可见光吸收能力，且均可降解盐酸四环素。光催化实验表明，降解盐酸四环素的较佳条件为：pH值13，催化剂用量1 g/L，盐酸四环素质量浓度20 mg/L。在整个光催化反应降解盐酸四环素的过程中，C-O官能团形成的杂质能级扮演了重要的角色。 The zinc oxide （ZnO） nanomaterials grafted with C-O functional groups were synthesized by sol-gel, co-precipitation and hydrothermal methods, respectively. The phase purity, organic functional groups and UV absorption capacity were characterized by X-ray powder diffraction （XRD）, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy （FTIR） and ultraviolet-visible spectrophotometry （UV-vis）. The photocatalytic activities of ZnO nanoparticles synthesized by the three methods were compared using tetracycline hydrochloride as the target of degradation. All the three preparation methods were successful to obtain the ZnO nanomaterials grafted with C-O functional groups. The results of FTIR showed that the samples had no organic functional groups except for C-O functional group. UV-vis diffuse reflectance spectra showed that the products had strong absorption ability to ultraviolet light and weak absorption ability to visible light and could degrade tetracycline hydrochloride. Photocatalytic experiments showed that the best pH value for degradation of tetracycline hydrochloride was 13, the best catalyst dosage was 1 g/L, and the best concentration of tetracycline hydrochloride was 20 mg/L. The impurity level of C-O functional group played an important role in the photocatalytic degradation of tetracycline hydrochloride. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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消毒剂对重组Ⅲ型人源化胶原蛋白促细胞黏附活性的影响 Effect of disinfectants on cell adhesion activity of recombinant type Ⅲ humanized collagen 李怡桐, 孙艳艳, 乔绍俊, 侯丽莉, 李熳琴, 于玉凤 2023 (7):  789-895.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.008 摘要 ( 125 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1459KB) ( 203 )   通过CCK8实验探究75%乙醇、碘伏、葡萄糖酸洗必泰、苯扎氯铵、苯扎溴铵对细胞的毒性以及对重组Ⅲ型人源化胶原蛋白（rhCol Ⅲ）促细胞的黏附活性的影响，预测消毒剂的使用在面部填充时对胶原蛋白活性的影响，为临床应用提供指导。结果显示：各消毒剂对NIH/3T3小鼠胚胎成纤维细胞和HFB人皮肤成纤维细胞均表现出细胞毒性，比较结果为：葡萄糖酸洗必泰<苯扎氯铵、苯扎溴铵<75%乙醇、碘伏，该结果也间接提示75%乙醇、碘伏消毒效果较佳；将各消毒剂原液稀释100倍后，其对rhCol Ⅲ促细胞黏附活性影响比较为：葡萄糖酸洗必泰、苯扎氯铵<75%乙醇<碘伏、苯扎溴铵。碘伏和苯扎溴铵工作液直接接触rhCol Ⅲ均显著降低其促细胞黏附活性，碘伏、葡萄糖酸洗必泰、苯扎溴铵工作液直接接触rhCol Ⅲ可导致其发生聚集。 The disinfectants available for facial injectable fillers include 75% ethanol, iodine-containing and surfactant-based disinfectants. There is a lack of research on whether the use of various skin disinfectants influences the activity of recombinant type Ⅲ humanized collagen （rhCol Ⅲ）. The toxicity of 75% ethanol, iodophor disinfectant, chlorhexidine gluconate, benzalkonium chloride, and benzalkonium bromide on cells and the cell adhesion activity of rhCol Ⅲ were investigated by CCK8 experiments to predict the effect of disinfectant on collagen activity during facial fillers, in order to provide guidance for clinical application. The results show that all disinfectants have cytotoxicity to NIH/3T3 mouse embryonic fibroblasts and HFB human skin fibroblasts, and the comparative results rank as chlorhexidine gluconate 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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液体洗涤蛋白酶稳定剂筛选方法开发 Stabilizers screening method development for liquid detergent protease 王雪娇, 杜丽娟, 徐元喜 2023 (7):  796-801.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.009 摘要 ( 128 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(1107KB) ( 219 )   酶制剂是洗衣液的重要组分，在这种环境中蛋白酶不仅会自溶，也会水解其他酶类。通过添加蛋白酶稳定剂可以暂时抑制蛋白酶的活性，提高洗衣液中酶的稳定性。现已成功商业化的两种稳定剂受专利保护，无法广泛应用，因此开发更多高效的稳定剂对洗涤酶的发展非常重要。常规的稳定剂的测试验证耗时长，效率低，文章基于稳定剂本质为可逆性抑制剂的原理，开发了简便高效的筛选方法。首先利用蛋白酶水解对硝基苯酚乙酸酯（p-NPA）反应可定量检测出候选物质对蛋白酶的抑制效率，再验证它们在洗涤剂中对酶的稳定能力，其中以脂肪酶残留率为指标可进一步缩短开发周期。利用这种方法对多种物质进行了比较，发现所测已报导的稳定剂中2，6-二氟吡啶-3-硼酸效果最好，另外发现4-（烷基磺酰基）苯硼酸系列物质也可做蛋白酶稳定剂。使用本方法测定的蛋白酶抑制率与含蛋白酶洗涤剂中的脂肪酶残余率有中度线性关系，且不受所测试蛋白酶种类影响。结果表明本方法适合高通量筛选蛋白酶稳定剂。 Enzyme is a kind of important ingredient of most liquid laundry detergent. Protease will autolyze and hydrolyze other enzymes in the liquid. By adding protease stabilizers, the activity of protease is inhibited temporarily, and the shelf life will be prolonged. There are already two commercialized stabilizers in the market, but they could not be used widely due to patent protection. Therefore, to develop other efficient stabilizers is very important for the users. The conventional verification test of stabilizers takes a very long time, so it is not suitable for high-throughput screening. Here this paper developed a simple and efficient screening method based on the principle that stabilizer is a reversible inhibitor. Firstly, the protease hydrolysis reaction of p-nitrophenyl acetate （p-NPA） was used to quantify the candidates’ inhibition ratio on protease, and then verified their stability efficiency in detergents. In addition, lipase can be used as an indicator to further shorten the experiment period. By this way, a variety of substances were evaluated and compared. As a result, 2, 6-difluoropyridine-3-boronic acid is found to be the most efficient one among the reported stabilizers, and 4-（alkylsulfonyl）phenylboronic acid may be also suitable as stabilizers. Finally, there is a positive moderate linear correlation between the protease inhibition ratio and the lipase residual rate in the protease-containing detergents, independent of protease species. The results indicate that this method is suitable for high-throughput screening of protease stabilizers and may be helpful for the development of detergent enzymes. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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电化学分析方法用于面膜中氯霉素现场快速检测 On-site and rapid electrochemical method for chloramphenicol detection in facial masks 王敏, 李萌月, 李晓熠, 刘琦, 赵华, 赵风年 2023 (7):  802-807.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.010 摘要 ( 103 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(1521KB) ( 192 )   开发一种基于金纳米颗粒的便携式电化学传感器用于面膜中氯霉素现场快速分析。以电沉积的方式，采用沉积电位-0.6 V、沉积时间20 s，在便携式、可抛弃的丝网印刷电极表面沉积金纳米颗粒。结果显示，构建的负载金纳米颗粒的电化学传感器对氯霉素的电催化性能明显高于裸电极。实验考察了电解质溶液的pH，在较优条件下对不同浓度的氯霉素进行测定。结果显示，氯霉素浓度在0.02~0.5 mmol/L范围时，峰电流响应与氯霉素的浓度呈线性关系，方法的检出限为0.005 mmol/L。为了进一步评价方法的可行性，以市售面膜为实际样品进行添加回收实验。结果显示，三个添加水平下，氯霉素的添加回收率为106.01%~110.59%，相对标准偏差不大于3.66%（n=3）。结合手持式电化学工作站的无线蓝牙数据传输功能，可将现场检测结果实时传输至用户手机客户端，为面膜中氯霉素的现场快速筛查提供新的研究思路。 A portable electrochemical sensor based on gold nanoparticles has been developed for the on-site and rapid detection of chloramphenicol in facial masks. Herein, gold nanoparticles were electrochemically deposited on the surface of the portable and disposable screen-printed electrode with a deposition potential of -0.6 V and a deposition time of 20 s. Results show that the electrocatalytic performance of the chloramphenicol electrochemical sensor modified with gold nanoparticles is significantly enhanced compared with the bare electrode. The pH of the buffer solution was optimized and different concentrations of chloramphenicol were detected under optimal conditions. Results show that when the concentration of chloramphenicol is in the range of 0.02-0.5 mmol/L, the peak current signal is linearly related to the concentration of chloramphenicol, with the limit of detection of 0.005 mmol/L. In order to further evaluate the feasibility of this method, this paper took the commercially available facial masks as the real samples for the recovery experiment. Results show that the recoveries of chloramphenicol at the three spiked levels are from 106.01% to 110.59%, and the relative standard deviation is less than 3.66% （n=3）. Adopting the hand-held electrochemical workstation equipped with Bluetooth, the corresponding analysis data can be received wirelessly in real time on a smartphone, which provides a new research idea for the on-site and rapid detection of chloramphenicol in facial masks. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

专论与综述

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环糊精包埋技术研究进展及其在化妆品原料包埋中的应用 Research progress of cyclodextrin encapsulation technology and its application on cosmetic ingredients 张婉萍, 盖厚辰, 张冬梅, 蒋汶, 朱广用 2023 (7):  808-815.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.011 摘要 ( 377 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1868KB) ( 186 )   环糊精（CDs）是葡萄糖的环状低聚物，它可以封装其他分子。其显著的封装特性导致了一种“主体-客体”类型的关系，它可以修改或改善客体分子的物理、化学或生物特性。其应用几乎适用于所有的工业部门，特别是制药、食品、化学、色谱、催化、生物技术、农业、化妆品、卫生、医药、纺织和环境。同时由于环糊精本身绿色无毒可降解，能够作为一种合适的传输载体被用于化妆品及其相关领域。因此环糊精包埋载体技术也受到了化妆品领域的广泛关注。文章介绍了环糊精包埋物制备方法，表征方法以及其在包埋化妆品相关原料：多酚、黄酮、精油中的应用。 Cyclodextrins are cyclic oligosaccharides that are widely used to improve the performance of bioactive compounds by encapsulation, such as food additives and ingredients or pharmaceutical compounds. Currently, cosmetic industry is constantly striving for better efficacy based on safety. However, the problems of poor water solubility and oxidative decomposition for many active ingredients have greatly limited their development in cosmetic products. Cyclodextrins can protect these compounds against light and oxidative degradation and provide host-guest supramolecular complexes having controlled release properties by molecular encapsulation, enhancing the water solubility and bioavailability. Cyclodextrins are green, non-toxic and degradable and can be used as a suitable delivery vehicle in cosmetics and many other fields. Therefore, the technology by using cyclodextrin as a carrier has also received a lot of attention in the cosmetic field. In recent years, flavonoids and polyphenols have received much attention in the cosmetic industry because of their good whitening and antioxidant effects. Essential oils have also drawn much attention from consumers. In this review, the preparation of cyclodextrin inclusion complexes was introduced, as well as their characterization and their application on many cosmetic ingredients such as polyphenols, flavonoids and essential oils. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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化妆品舒缓功效的科学评价方法 Scientific evaluation methods for soothing cosmetics efficacy 冯法晴, 李静 2023 (7):  816-825.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.012 摘要 ( 402 )   HTML ( 33 )   PDF(1015KB) ( 491 )   在环境污染加重和护肤美容习惯改变等因素的影响下，皮肤刺激状态频繁发生。文章从消费者感知到的症状主要包括红斑、瘙痒、灼热感、紧绷感、干燥、疼痛等皮肤刺激状态出发，综述其可能发生机制和过程，全面地对功效评价方法进行梳理。目前已经报道有多种评价方法应用于食品、药品以及临床功效研究等方面，而对于化妆品的舒缓功效的评价方法的相关综述较少，文章梳理引发皮肤刺激状态的皮肤炎症反应、皮肤屏障和神经反应三条通路上的评价方法，从实验室试验（包括生物化学法、细胞生物学法、三维重组皮肤模型替代法、动物及动物替代实验法）、消费者使用测试以及人体功效评价试验（主观、半主观和客观仪器评价法）多角度概述其在化妆品功效评价中的应用，为化妆品舒缓功效的科学评价提供新的思路。 Under the influence of factors such as the aggravation of environmental pollution and changes in skincare and beauty habits, skin irritation occurs more frequently. Starting from the symptoms perceived by consumers, which mainly include erythema, itching, burning sensation, tightness, dryness, pain and other skin irritation states, this article reviews the possible mechanism and process, and sorts out the efficacy evaluation methods. At present, a variety of evaluation methods applied to food, medicine, clinical efficacy research and other fields have been reported, while there are few related reviews on soothing cosmetics efficacy. In this article, on the basis of the mechanism of triggering the skin irritation states, we review various evaluation methods on three pathways of skin inflammatory response, skin barrier and neural response, which are divided into laboratory tests （including biochemical methods, cell biological methods, three-dimensional recombinant skin models, animal and the animal alternative experiment methods）, consumer use testing and human efficacy evaluation tests （including subjective, semi-subjective and objective instrumental evaluation methods）, and overview their applications in efficacy evaluation of cosmetics, expecting to provide new ideas of scientific efficacy evaluation for soothing cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

分析与检测

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UPLC-MS/MS法测定精油类化妆品中13种双酚类及烷基酚类环境激素 Determination of 13 bisphenols and alkylphenols environmental hormones in essential oil cosmetics by UPLC-MS/MS method 刘真, 王玉梅, 杨军丽, 孙小杰 2023 (7):  826-832.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.013 摘要 ( 105 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(1113KB) ( 137 )   建立了一种超高效液相色谱-串联质谱（UPLC-MS/MS）方法测定精油类化妆品中13种双酚类及烷基酚类环境激素。精油类化妆品以10%的氨水-乙腈溶液超声提取，氮吹浓缩后，以甲醇和水流动相梯度洗脱，经Agilent Poroshell EC-C18（3.0×150 mm，2.7 μm）色谱柱分离，电喷雾离子源负离子模式（ESI-）扫描，多反应监测模式（MRM）定量分析。结果表明，13种双酚类及烷基酚类环境激素在0.25~200 ng/mL中一定质量浓度范围内呈现良好线性关系，线性相关系数均大于0.99，各物质检出浓度（LOD）为0.000 375~0.007 5 µg/g，定量浓度（LOQ）为0.001 25~0.025 µg/g；在0.025，0.05及0.25 µg/g三种不同加标浓度水平下，各物质平均回收率范围为81.8%~113.4%，日内精密度（n=6）为1.1%~8.5%，日间精密度（n=18）为3.5%~11.5%，方法前处理过程简单、回收率好、稳定性高，实现了13种目标物质的有效色谱分离，适用于精油类化妆品中13种双酚类及烷基酚类环境激素的同时定量定性分析。 Environmental hormone is a kind of substance that can disturb biological endocrine, among which bisphenols and alkylphenols have great potential harm because they are widely used in the manufacture of plastics. At present, there are many researches on the related detection technologies in the fields of environment and food, but there are few reports on high-throughput simultaneous detection of bisphenols and alkylphenols in cosmetics. In order to analyze the migration amount of bisphenols and alkylphenols environmental hormones in cosmetics, an ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry （UPLC-MS/MS） method was developed for the determination of 13 environmental hormones including 9 bisphenols and 4 alkylphenols in essential oil cosmetics. The chromatographic conditions, extraction reagent, dosage and ultrasonic time were optimized, then actual samples were measured with this established method. The essential oil cosmetics were extracted by ultrasonic extraction with 10% ammonium-acetonitrile solution, concentrated by nitrogen blowing, and eluted by gradient elution of methanol and water on an Agilent Poroshell EC-C18 column （3.0 mm×150 mm, 2.7 μm）. The 13 analytes were scanned by electrospray ion source negative ion mode （ESI-）, and analyzed with multiple response monitoring model （MRM）. The results show that there is a good linear relationship for 13 kinds of bisphenols and alkylphenols environmental hormones in the certain mass concentration range of 0.25-200 ng/mL, with the linear correlation coefficients greater than 0.99. The limits of detection （LOD） and the limits of quantitation （LOQ） of each substance are 0.000 375-0.007 5 µg/g and 0.001 25-0.025 µg/g, respectively. The average recoveries at three spiked levels of 0.025, 0.05 and 0.25 µg/g range from 81.8% to 113.4% with the intra-day precision （n=6） of 1.1% to 8.5%, and the inter-day precision （n=18） of 3.5% to 11.5%. The method is established with simple pretreatment, good recovery and high stability, which has achieved effective chromatographic separation of 13 target substances. It is suitable for simultaneous quantitative and qualitative analysis of 13 bisphenols and alkylphenols environmental hormones in essential oil cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法同时测定化妆品中29种抗过敏药物 Determination of 29 anti-allergy drugs by UPLC-MS/MS in cosmetics 郑佳新, 贾昌平, 张珊珊 2023 (7):  833-840.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.014 摘要 ( 92 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1025KB) ( 113 )   建立了超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法同时测定化妆品中29种抗过敏药物的检测方法。样品采用乙腈超声提取，经色谱柱分离，以0.1%氨水溶液和0.1%氨水甲醇溶液梯度洗脱，采用电喷雾离子源正离子模式（ESI+）电离，多反应监测（MRM）模式检测。结果表明，29种抗过敏药物在线性范围内线性关系良好，相关系数均大于0.997；检出限为0.4~12.9 ng/g，平均回收率为80.9%~115.9%，RSD为0.3%~14.8%。应用该方法对10批样品进行筛查，共有2批检出阳性，其中1批检出了赛庚啶和赛庚啶杂质1，1批检出了西咪替丁。该方法操作简便，具有良好的选择性、灵敏度及准确度，能够用于化妆品中抗过敏药物的测定。 The study aims to develop an ultra high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry method for the determination of 29 anti-allergy drugs in cosmetics. The samples were extracted by ultrasonic machine with acetonitrile, and the separation was executed on a column using the mobile phase consisting of 0.1% ammonium hydroxide （A） and 0.1% ammonium hydroxide methanol solution （B）. The analysis was performed using a positive electrospray ion source in multiple reaction monitoring （MRM） mode. The result show that the linear relationship of the 29 anti-allergy drugs in the linear range is good, and the correlation coefficient is greater than 0.997. The detection limits are between 0.4-12.9 ng/g, and the average recovery rate is in the range of 80.9%-115.9%, with RSD within 0.3%-14.8%. 2 Batches of positive samples are detected within 10 batches of the samples, cyproheptadine and cyproheptadine impurity 1 are found in 1 batch, and cimetidine is found in 1 batch. The established method is simple, selective, sensitive and accurate, and can be used for the determination of anti-allergy drugs in cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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HPLC-QAMS法同时测定何首乌防脱育发精华液中9种成分含量 Simultaneous determination of nine effective components in Polygonum Multif lorum Fangtuoyufa Jinghuaye by HPLC-QAMS 刘英, 林敏, 戴思芮 2023 (7):  841-848.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.015 摘要 ( 117 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(1142KB) ( 321 )   建立高效液相色谱一测多评法（HPLC-QAMS法）同时检测何首乌防脱育发精华液中9种成分的含量，并验证所建立方法的可行性和准确性。以槲皮苷为含量参照物，甲醇-0.1%磷酸为流动相，分别采用外标法和HPLC-QAMS法同时测定12批何首乌防脱育发精华液中大黄素、大黄素甲醚、杨梅苷、槲皮苷、杨梅素、槲皮素、山柰酚、穗花杉双黄酮、扁柏双黄酮的含量，对比两种方法的结果差异，验证HPLC-QAMS法的适用性。结果显示，9种成分各线性范围良好，相关系数均大于0.999，检出限为0.027~0.151 µg/mL，定量限为0.076~0.449 µg/mL。以槲皮苷为内参比物质，大黄素、大黄素甲醚、杨梅苷、杨梅素、槲皮素、山柰酚、穗花杉双黄酮、扁柏双黄酮的相对校正因子分别为0.753 7，0.836 9，1.019 2，2.991 3，1.687 5，2.236 9，1.096 3和1.249 3。两种方法测得的何首乌防脱育发精华液中9种成分的含量差异均无统计学意义（P>0.05）。以槲皮苷为含量参照物建立的相对校正因子重现性好，HPLC-QAMS法可用于何首乌防脱育发精华液中9种成分的质量评价。 The study aimed to establish an HPLC-QAMS method for simultaneous quantitation of nine effective components in Polygonum Multiflorum Fangtuoyufa Jinghuaye, and to verify the feasibility and accuracy of the method. Quercitrin was used as the reference substance and methanol-0.1% phosphoric acid was used as the mobile phase. The contents of emodin, physcion, myricitrin, quercitrin, myricetin, quercetin, kaempferol, amentoflavone and hinokiflavone in 12 batches of Polygonum Multiflorum Fangtuoyufa Jinghuaye were determined by external standard method and HPLC-QAMS method, respectively, and the difference between the results of the two methods was compared to verify the serviceability of HPLC-QAMS method. The results show that the linear ranges of the nine components are good, the correlation coefficients are greater than 0.999, the limits of detection （LOD） are 0.027-0.151 µg/mL, and the limits of quantification are 0.076-0.449 µg/mL. The relative correlation factors are 0.753 7, 0.836 9, 1.019 2, 2.991 3, 1.687 5, 2.236 9, 1.096 3 and 1.249 3 for emodin, physcion, myricitrin, myricetin, quercetin, kaempferol, amentoflavone and hinokiflayone, respectively. There is no significant difference in the content of 9 components in Polygonum Multiflorum Fangtuoyufa Jinghuaye determined by the two methods （P>0.05）. The relative correlation factors established with quercitrin as the internal reference substance have good reproducibility. The HPLC-QAMS method can be used for the quality evaluation of nine effective components in Polygonum Multiflorum Fangtuoyufa Jinghuaye. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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固相萃取-超高效液相色谱串联质谱法测定化妆品中国标方法以外的42种糖皮质激素 Determination of 42 glucocorticoids beyond the national standard method in cosmetics by solid phase extraction-liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry 马亮波, 孙宇, 朱桂芳, 卢嘉仪, 徐燕, 刘涛 2023 (7):  849-856.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.07.016 摘要 ( 121 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1240KB) ( 186 )   建立了针对化妆品中多种糖皮质激素的固相萃取-超高效液相色谱串联质谱检测法，除了可对化妆品中已有检测标准的50种糖皮质激素实现检测外，还可实现国标以外的42种糖皮质激素检测。样品经分散、提取及净化后，选用UPLC Shim-pack XR-ODSIII C18 （2.0 mm×150 mm，2.2 μm）的色谱柱，以0.1% （V/V）乙酸乙腈溶液和0.1% （V/V）乙酸水溶液为流动相，在电喷雾离子源（ESI）及多反应监测（MRM）模式下，对目前国标法以外的42种糖皮质激素进行同步测试。42种糖皮质激素均呈现良好线性响应，相关系数达到0.99以上。针对水剂、乳液、霜类基质样品，采用加标回收法测试，检出限可达0.03 μg/g，定量限可达0.1 μg/g，三基质三水平六平行试验的平均回收率在67.6%~112.5%范围内。采用所建立的方法，已筛查出实际样本中添加了这42种糖皮质激素成分的阳性样品2个。以固相萃取-超高效液相色谱串联质谱法测定可为监测化妆品中糖皮质激素的非法添加提供更为高效检测途径和方法。 A solid phase extraction （SPE）-ultra performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry （UPLC-MS/MS） method was developed for the determination of 42 glucocorticoids in cosmetics, in addition to the existing standard of 50 glucocorticoids. After the samples were dispersed, extracted and purified, 42 glucocorticoids were determined by using UPLC Shim-pack XR-ODSIII C18 （2.0 mm×150 mm, 2.2 μm） chromatographic column, 0.1% （V/V） acetic acid acetonitrile solution and 0.1% （V/V） acetic acid aqueous solution as the mobile phase at the mode of electrospray ionization （ESI） and multiple reaction monitoring （MRM）. A total of 42 hormones have good linearity, and the correlation coefficients are above 0.99. For water, emulsion and cream substrates, the limit of detection （LOD） is 0.03 μg/g and the limit of quantification （LOQ） is 0.1 μg/g. The average recoveries of three levels and six parallel tests range from 67.6%-112.5% for water, emulsion and cream substrates. At present, two positive samples with these 42 glucocorticoid components have been screened, which provides a more comprehensive method for monitoring the illegal addition of glucocorticoids in cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标