祛斑美白类化妆品功效成分的研究现状

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.011

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

皮肤细胞中黑色素沉着过度会导致皮肤疾病，如炎症后色素沉着、日光性黑子、黄褐斑和雀斑等。祛斑美白类化妆品可用于临床辅助治疗黑色素沉着过度，其作用机制涉及抑制黑色素合成、还原黑色素、抑制黑素小体转运等。祛斑美白类化妆品中的美白原料，通过抑制黑色素生物合成途径的限速酶酪氨酸酶，参与调控黑色素生物合成的信号通路，还原黑色素或抑制黑素小体转运等作用机制达到美白的作用。随着市场对祛斑美白类化妆品的需求日渐增加，越来越多的天然活性成分作为美白原料添加到化妆品中，但是存在着成分不明确、作用机理缺失等问题。文章梳理了现有祛斑美白类化妆品功效成分的作用机理并分类归纳讨论，旨在为皮肤色素沉着防治的临床策略以及祛斑美白类化妆品的产品开发提供理论依据。

关键词: 黑色素, 祛斑美白类化妆品, 酪氨酸酶

Abstract:

Excessive accumulation of melanin pigments may result in skin-related disorders such as post inflammatory pigmentation, solar lentigo, melasma and freckles. The mechanism of action of whitening cosmetics is related to the inhibition of melanin synthesis, reduction of melanin, and inhibition of melanosome transport. The whitening raw materials in spot-removing and whitening cosmetics achieve whitening effects by inhibiting the rate-limiting enzyme tyrosinase of the melanin biosynthesis pathway, participating in the regulation of the melanin biosynthesis signaling pathway, and reducing melanin or inhibiting melanosome transport and other mechanisms of action. With the increasing market demand for spot-removing and whitening cosmetics, more and more natural active ingredients are added to the cosmetics as whitening raw materials, but there are problems such as unclear composition and missing mechanism of action. In sequence to provide a theoretical foundation for the clinical strategy of skin pigmentation prevention and treatment as well as the product development of whitening cosmetics, the action mechanisms of the existing whitening cosmetic efficacy components cosmetics are sorted out and discussed in this paper.

Key words: melanin, whitening cosmetics, tyrosinase

中图分类号:

TQ658

李宁, 李恩念, 陈红波, 程芳, 邹衡芳, 陈鸿鹏. 祛斑美白类化妆品功效成分的研究现状[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(1): 80-89.

Ning Li, Ennian Li, Hongbo Chen, Fang Cheng, Hengfang Zou, Hongpeng Chen. Advances of functional components in whitening cosmetic[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(1): 80-89.

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