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2024年, 第54卷, 第1期　刊出日期：2024-01-22 上一期    下一期

基础研究

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非离子-阴离子Bola型表面活性剂和纳米SiO2颗粒协同稳定的双重响应型O/W乳状液 Dual-responsive oil-in-water emulsions co-stabilized by a nonionic-anionic Bola surfactant and silica nanoparticles 刘佩, 潘婷, 裴晓梅, 宋冰蕾, 蒋建中, 崔正刚, Bernard P. Binks 2024 (1):  1-15.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.001 摘要 ( 126 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF(5178KB) ( 253 )   合成了一种非离子-阴离子Bola型智能表面活性剂，通过pH-响应可以在非离子型CH3O （EO） 5-R11-COOH （pHKa=6.6）和Bola型CH3O （EO） 5-R11-COONa （pH>pKa）之间转换。单独使用时，非离子型和Bola型分别表现为不良乳化剂和优良乳化剂。与纳米SiO2颗粒复配使用时，非离子型能与SiO2颗粒协同稳定O/W（正癸烷）型Pickering乳状液，其中表面活性剂通过氢键作用吸附到颗粒表面产生原位疏水化作用，提高了颗粒的表面活性，并且这种Pickering乳状液具有pH-和温度-双重响应性，能够通过改变pH或者温度使乳状液在稳定和破乳之间实现多次转换。另一方面，Bola型CH3O（EO） 5-R11-COONa能够与纳米SiO2颗粒协同稳定分散液包油（oil-in-dispersion）乳状液，该乳状液具有良好的耐温性，但对调节pH时产生的盐较为敏感。然而与破乳后能完全返回水相便于回收再利用的同系物CH3O（EO） 7-R11-COOH相比，具有较短EO链的CH3O（EO） 5-R11-COOH无论处于非离子型还是Bola型状态仍具有相当的油溶性，破乳后不能完全返回水相，表明EO数大小对这类新型智能表面活性剂的性能有显著的影响。 A smart nonionic-anionic Bola surfactant was synthesized which could be switched between nonionic form CH3O （EO） 5-R11-COOH （pHKa=6.6） and Bola form CH3O（EO） 5-R11-COONa （pH>pKa） as triggered by pH. Individually, the nonionic/Bola forms behaved as poor/good emulsifiers, respectively. When the nonionic form was mixed with silica nanoparticles, they could co-stabilize n-decane-in-water Pickering emulsions, where the silica nanoparticles were hydrophobized in situ to be surface-active by adsorption of the surfactant via hydrogen bonding. The Pickering emulsions could be switched between stable and unstable statuses many times as triggered by either pH or temperature. On the other hand, the Bola form could co-stabilize oil-in-dispersion emulsions with silica nanoparticles, which were resistant to heating but were sensitive to the salt formed during pH alternation. However, in contrast to the CH3 （EO） 7-R11-COONa which could completely transfer to aqueous phase after demulsification, its analogue with shorter EO chain, i.e., CH3 （EO） 5-R11-COONa, was still partially oil-soluble either in nonionic form or in bola form, suggesting a significant effect of EO number on the performance of these novel smart surfactants. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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硬脂酸酯双子季铵盐的合成及性能研究 Synthesis and properties of Gemini quaternary ammonium surfactant based on stearate 艾浩康, 姜亚洁, 王亚魁, 张璐, 耿涛 2024 (1):  16-23.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.002 摘要 ( 96 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1448KB) ( 85 )   以硬脂酸、N,N-二甲基乙醇胺和1,4-二溴丁烷为原料，制备了一种硬脂酸酯双子季铵盐表面活性剂（EG-18），并通过红外光谱和核磁共振氢谱对其分子结构进行表征。对EG-18的静态表面张力和动态表面张力进行测定，发现EG-18的临界胶束浓度（cmc）为1.32×10-3 mol/L，平衡表面张力（γcmc）为35.68 mN/m，具有较好的表面活性。通过动态接触角的测试数据，发现EG-18溶液随浓度增大，对石蜡膜的润湿性逐渐增强。对比了D1821、EG-18和酯基季铵盐3种物质在浊度、润湿性能、抗静电性能、柔软性能和织物白度方面的差异。浊度的对比发现，EG-18的溶解度高于D1821和酯基季铵盐;润湿性能方面：EG-18可将石蜡膜润湿，但润湿性能弱于D1821和酯基季铵盐;EG-18的抗静电性能优于D1821;3种物质的柔软性能相当，并且EG-18对棉白布的白度影响最小。 A Gemini quaternary ammonium surfactant based on stearate （EG-18） was synthesized from stearic acid, N,N-dimethylethanolamine and 1,4-dibromobutane. EG-18 was characterized by IR and 1H NMR. The surface activity of EG-18 was studied by measuring the static surface tension and dynamic surface tension. The critical micelle concentration （cmc） of EG-18 was 1.32×10-3 mol/L, and the equilibrium surface tension at cmc （γcmc） was 35.68 mN/m. The results of dynamic surface tension vs. time showed that, when the concentration of EG-18 solution was as low as 1×10-5 mol/L, only induction region could be found in the curve, and the fast fall region and meso-equilibrium region would gradually appear with the increase of concentration. Equilibrium region was not founded at higher concentration （e.g., 1×10-2 mol/L） of EG-18 solution, due to the high steric hindrance of the Gemini surfactant, which hindered the rate of migration to the liquid surface. The results of dynamic contact angle showed that, the contact angle of EG-18 solution decreased with the increase of concentration, i.e., the wetting effect of EG-18 solution on paraffin film increased. The differences between EG-18, D1821 and esterquat in wetting ability, turbidity, antistatic properties, softness and fabric whiteness were studied. The results showed that EG-18 had the highest solubility among the three. EG-18 had certain wetting ability to paraffin film, but its wetting ability was weaker than that of D1821 and esterquat. The antistatic performance of EG-18 was stronger than that of D1821. In terms of softness, the softening properties of the three substances were basically the same, and compared with the blank control group, the white cotton cloth was significantly softened. EG-18 had the least influence on the whiteness of white cotton cloth. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

科技讲座

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新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用（V）——Janus乳液 New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （V） Janus emulsion 韩旭, 吴槚佳, 武娜, 尚亚卓 2024 (1):  24-31.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.003 摘要 ( 144 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF(2191KB) ( 114 )   Janus乳液是内相由两种互不相溶、彼此独立、界面分明的液相组成的单液滴形式的多分散体系，其内相两腔室的物质组成不同，两腔室的性质和形状具有不对称性，是一类特殊类型的各向异性乳液。Janus乳液不但保持了传统乳液的基本性质，其两腔室、多样的界面和灵活的结构、较大的界面面积和独立的空间等独特的结构优势使其对诸多功能性物质的选择性增溶、隔离、保护以及缓释等作用优于传统乳液。Janus乳液具有结构多样、定量可调的特点，可通过改变乳化剂种类、含量及各相的比例等实现对体系内界面的种类、数量和相对面积的调整，进而调控体系性质，以满足不同的使用需求。Janus乳液在化妆品、食品、生物医药以及微反应器等领域具有潜在的应用前景。本文介绍了Janus乳液及其制备方法，总结了影响Janus乳液性质的关键因素，概况了Janus乳液的性能优势。并基于目前对Janus乳液的研究及应用现状，展望了Janus乳液在化妆品领域的应用前景，并简单介绍了另外一种新型各向异性乳液——Cerberus乳液。同时，指出了Janus乳液在化妆品中应用面临的问题，并对有必要开展的研究工作提出了个人观点，旨在为性能优异的Janus乳液的开发及其在化妆品领域的实际应用提供参考信息。 Janus emulsion is a polydisperse system composed of two immiscible liquid phases in the internal phase. The composition, physicochemical properties as well as the shapes of the compartments in the internal phase of Janus emulsion are asymmetry, which endow the emulsion anisotropy. Janus emulsion not only maintains the fundamental properties of the traditional emulsion, the selective solubilization, isolation, protection and sustained-release property to the functional materials are better than that of the traditional emulsion due to its unique structural advantages including two isolated compartments, various interfaces and flexible structure, larger interface area etc. The topologies of Janus emulsion are diverse and the properties of Janus emulsion are quantitatively tunable. The type, quantity and relative area of the interface within the system can be adjusted by tailoring the type, content of emulsifier and the proportion of each phase, so as to regulate the properties of the system to meet different requirements of application. The Janus emulsion has potential applications in the fields of cosmetics, food, biomedicine and microreactor. In this paper, the Janus emulsion and its preparation method are introduced firstly and then the factors of affecting the properties of Janus emulsion are summarized. The performance advantages of the Janus emulsion are elaborated too. Based on the current research and application status of Janus emulsion, the application prospect of Janus emulsion in cosmetics is discussed. At the same time, another new type of anisotropic emulsion, Cerberus emulsion is also briefly introduced. Finally, the limitations of the application of Janus emulsion in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed, which may provide necessary reference information for the development of Janus emulsion with excellent performance and its practical application in the field of cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

开发与应用

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Ca2+介导的月桂酰甲基牛磺酸钠相行为研究 Study on the phase behavior of sodium lauroyl methyltaurate mediated by Ca2+ 张婉萍, 林延忠, 张倩洁, 张冬梅, 蒋汶 2024 (1):  32-37.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.004 摘要 ( 79 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1690KB) ( 66 )   为探究高价无机盐对阴离子表面活性剂月桂酰甲基牛磺酸钠（SMLT）溶液的表面活性和相行为的影响，考察了Ca2+浓度对SMLT溶液的表面张力和不同SMLT/Ca2+摩尔比对SMLT/水二元体系的相行为影响。结果表明，加入适量的Ca2+对其表面活性影响显著，当Ca2+浓度从0增加至0.1 mol/L时，cmc从8.0×10-3 mol/L降至8.0×10-4 mol/L，γcmc从36.00 mN/m降至31.45 mN/m。同时，在SMLT溶液中加入Ca2+，SMLT/水体系的二元相图出现胶束溶液相区、蠕虫胶束相区、六角束液晶相区、层状液晶相区和胶束-晶体相区，原有的双水相区消失，胶束-晶体区变大。在考察Ca2+浓度对SMLT溶液黏度的影响时，发现当SMLT/Ca2+的摩尔比为1时，SMLT溶液增黏效果明显，摩尔比为0.6时溶液析出固体。选择质量分数为20%的SMLT溶液进行流变性能测定，根据样品流变曲线，发现其具有剪切变稀的现象，冷冻透射电镜显示有蠕虫胶束的形成。 The effects of high-valent inorganic salts on the surface activity and phase behavior of anionic surfactant sodium lauroyl methyl taurate （or sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, SMLT） were studied. The effects of Ca2+ concentration on the surface tension of SMLT solution and the effects of different SMLT/Ca2+ molar ratios on the phase behavior of SMLT in water were investigated. The results showed that the addition of an appropriate amount of Ca2+ had significant impact on the surface activity. When the Ca2+ concentration was increased from 0 to 0.1 mol/L, the cmc decreased from 8.0×10-3 mol/L to 8.0×10-4 mol/L, and the γcmc decreased from 36.00 mN/m to 31.45 mN/m. Meanwhile, by adding Ca2+ to the SMLT solution, the binary phase diagram of the SMLT/water system showed phase regions of micellar solution region, wormlike micelle region, hexagonal liquid crystal region, lamellar liquid crystal region, and micelle-crystal region. The original aqueous two-phase region disappeared, and the micelle-crystal region became larger. When examining the effect of Ca2+ concentration on the viscosity of SMLT solution, it was found that, with a molar ratio of SMLT/Ca2+ of 1, the viscosity was significantly increased, while at a molar ratio of 0.6, solid precipitated from the solution. An SMLT solution at mass fraction of 20% was selected for measurement of rheological performance. According to the rheological curve of the sample, a phenomenon of shear thinning was observed, and the formation of wormlike micelles was observed by cryogenic transmission electron microscopy. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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牙膏中可溶性/游离氟化物快速定量分析方法研究 Rapid quantitative analysis of soluble/ionic fluoride in toothpastes 曹东霞, 周雷, 李家宏, 林长钦, 陈锦玲 2024 (1):  38-44.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.005 摘要 ( 71 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1280KB) ( 52 )   有效结合低场核磁共振技术（LF-NMR）和高场固体核磁共振技术（SS-NMR），系统研究了牙膏中氟化物，建立了牙膏中可溶性/游离氟化物的LF-NMR快速定量分析方法。实验结果表明，LF-NMR 6次平行测试的相对标准偏差RSD均在2%以内，精密度高。实际样品测试中，117款牙膏样品中有110款样品LF-NMR定量分析数据与国标方法氟离子选择电极法测试数据相对偏差在±5%以内;另有7款样品，LF-NMR与国标方法定量数据有较大的差异，结合SS-NMR的氟化物物种及形态分析结果，发现造成差异的主要原因是体系中存在不溶性氟化物物种，影响整个体系的弛豫时间，造成LF-NMR测试结果较国标方法低，但LF-NMR可作为快筛手段及时反映牙膏质量问题。LF-NMR方法前处理简单，牙膏样品无需任何前处理，直接装样测试，整个测试流程5 min左右，是非常快速的定量分析手段，并且，结合SS-NMR技术，进一步明确了LF-NMR定量测试适用体系。 Low-field nuclear magnetic resonance （LF-NMR） and high-field solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance （SS-NMR） were effectively combined to systematically study the fluoride in toothpastes, and a rapid LF-NMR method for quantitative analysis of soluble/ionic fluoride in toothpastes was established. The results showed that the relative standard deviations （RSDs） of LF-NMR in 6 parallel tests were all within 2%, indicative of high precision. In the actual sample test, 117 toothpaste samples were selected, and the relative deviation between LF-NMR data and national standard test data was within±5% for the 110 toothpaste samples therein. For the other 7 samples, the quantitative data of LF-NMR were significantly different from that of the national standard method. Combined with the analysis results of SS-NMR, it was found that the difference was due to the existence of insoluble fluoride substances in the system, which affected the relaxation time of the whole system and therefore the results of LF-NMR were lower than that of the national standard method. Nevertheless, LF-NMR could still be used as a fast screening method to reflect the quality of toothpaste in time. The LF-NMR method was a very fast quantitative analysis method, the toothpaste samples could be directly tested without any pre-treatment, and the whole test process was approximately 5 min. In addition, combined with SS-NMR technology, the systems which were applicable to be measured with LF-NMR quantitative test were further defined. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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日勾维多细菌源菌双重PCR快速检测方法建立 Establishment of duplex-PCR method for rapid detection of Pluralibacter gergoviae 刘丰, 邓源昌, 应国红, 王晓炜 2024 (1):  45-50.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.006 摘要 ( 66 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1468KB) ( 66 )   建立日勾维多细菌源菌快速检测方法，快速有效地检出样品中的日勾维多细菌源菌。利用日勾维多细菌源菌的看家基因gyrB和ropB，设计2对特异性的扩增引物，以培养液作为DNA扩增模板，建立双重PCR快速检测方法，并通过优化扩增反应的退火温度，提高双重PCR的特异性;利用引物gyrB-F/gyrB-R和ropB-F/ropB-R（insert）扩增4株日勾维多细菌源菌，可得到2条特异性的目标DNA条带，但非目标菌会出现非特异性DNA条带。优化后的退火温度为65 ℃，以4株日勾维多细菌源菌为DNA模板时，可扩增出特异性的目标DNA条带;以大肠埃希氏菌、金黄色葡萄球菌、铜绿假单胞菌、阴沟肠杆菌和洋葱伯克霍尔德菌为DNA模板时，均检测不到DNA条带。当样品中的日勾维多细菌源菌达到4.4 CFU/mL时，双重PCR即可高灵敏检出样品中的日勾维多细菌源菌。可用双重PCR方法快速检出沐浴露、洗发水等淋洗类化妆品中的日勾维多细菌源菌。 A rapid detection method for Pluralibacter gergoviae was established, and this method was used to quickly and effectively detect Pluralibacter gergoviae in samples. Four house-keeping genes （gyrB, infB, atpD and ropB） were selected as target genes, and 4 pairs of primers were designed. The bacterial suspension was used as amplification, and the 4 pairs of primers could specifically bind with the Pluralibacter gergoviae to produce bright DNA bands. Among the four pairs of primers, only gyrB-F/gyrB-R and ropB-F/ropB-R obtained a small amount of non-specific DNA bands when Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Enterobacter cloacae and Burkholderia cepacia were used as DNA templates. Two pairs of specific primers gyrB-F/gyrB-R and ropB-F/ropB-R（insert） were used to establish the rapid detection method of duplex-PCR for Pluralibacter gergoviae in rinsing cosmetics. The specificity of duplex-PCR was improved by optimizing the annealing temperature of amplification. When the annealing temperature was 60 ℃, using the primer pairs gyrB-F/gyrB-R and ropB-F/ropB-R （insert） to amplify 4 strains of Pluralibacter gergoviae, two specific target DNA bands were obtained, but Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Enterobacter cloacae and Burkholderia cepacia would obtain non-specific DNA bands. When the annealing temperature was optimized and set at 65 ℃, the specific target DNA bands could be amplified when 4 strains of Pluralibacter gergoviae were used as DNA templates. When Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Enterobacter cloacae and Burkholderia cepacia were used as DNA templates, no DNA bands were detected. When the concentration of Pluralibacter gergoviae in the sample reached 4.4 CFU/mL, duplex-PCR was able to detect Pluralibacter gergoviae in the sample with high sensitivity. Duplex-PCR method could be used to quickly detect the Pluralibacter gergoviae in the rinsing cosmetics such as shower gel and shampoo. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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基于斑贴及稳定性试验剖析含烟酰胺化妆品皮肤刺激性成因 Analysis of the causes of skin irritation of niacinamide cosmetics based on patch test and stability test 王亚茹, 莫庭源, 赖红霞, 周悦, 谢嘉颖, 谭建华 2024 (1):  51-56.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.007 摘要 ( 124 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(1293KB) ( 91 )   为探究含烟酰胺化妆品可能引起人体皮肤刺激性反应的主要原因，开展了健康志愿者烟酸、烟酰胺斑贴试验及含烟酰胺化妆品稳定性试验研究。首先选取含烟酰胺化妆品进行斑贴试验，同时测定烟酸、烟酰胺含量水平;随后进行了不同含量烟酸溶液（0.000 5%，0.001%，0.01%，0.025%）和3%烟酰胺溶液斑贴试验，并开展了含烟酰胺化妆品稳定性试验。结果发现：45个含烟酰胺化妆品中，17个会引起皮肤反应（占总数的37.8%），41个检出烟酸（占总数的91.1%），含量为0.000 15%~0.026 6%;采用自建皮肤反应评分方法进行评分，皮肤反应评分总和与烟酸含量正相关具有统计学意义（r=0.406，P=0.006），与烟酰胺含量相关无统计学意义（r=0.099，P=0.517）。0.000 5%烟酸、0.001%烟酸、3%烟酰胺溶液对皮肤刺激性与阴性对照的差异无统计学意义（P>0.05）;0.025%烟酸、0.01%烟酸对皮肤刺激性与阴性对照的差异具有统计学意义（P<0.05）。含烟酰胺化妆品在25 ℃放置8周烟酸含量稳定，在55 ℃放置8周烟酸含量呈现逐渐增加趋势。 To investigate the main causes of skin adverse reactions caused by niacinamide cosmetics, niacin and niacinamide patch test in healthy volunteers, and niacinamide cosmetics stability test were conducted. Niacinamide cosmetics were selected to perform patch test on healthy volunteers, and the content of niacin and niacinamide were measured. Subsequently, patch tests of niacin solution with different content （0.000 5%, 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.025%） and 3% niacinamide solution were carried out, and the stability test of niacinamide cosmetics was carried out. The results are shown as following: among 45 kinds of niacinamide cosmetics selected, 17 kinds of them cause skin reactions by patch test （accounting for 37.8% of the total）, and niacin is detected in 41 kinds （accounting for 91.1%） with the content of 0.000 15%-0.026 6%. Self-established skin reaction scoring method is used for scoring, and the total score of skin reaction is significantly positively correlated with the niacin content （r=0.406, P=0.006）, but not significantly correlated with the niacinamide content （r=0.099, P=0.517）. There are no significant differences among skin irritation of 0.000 5% niacin solution, 0.001% niacin solution, 3% niacinamide solution and the negative control （P>0.05）. There are significant differences between skin irritation of 0.025% niacin and the negative control, or between skin irritation of 0.01% niacin and the negative control （P<0.05）. Niacinamide cosmetics are placed at 25 ℃ for 8 weeks and the content of niacin are stable, while niacin content are gradually increased at 55 ℃ for 8 weeks. Hence, niacin is potentially irritating to healthy human skin, and the degree of irritation worsens with the increase of the content. In addition, for niacinamide cosmetics, part of niacinamide slowly hydrolyze to niacin under high temperature, which may cause adverse reactions on the skin of the sensitive consumers. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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滨海刺芹愈伤组织提取物中4种多酚含量测定及抗氧化、抗炎活性研究 Determination of four polyphenols and study on antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of extracts from callus of Eryngium maritimum L. 肖雪, 张慧荣, 李硕雯, 李孙华, 郭苗苗, 李丽 2024 (1):  57-64.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.008 摘要 ( 87 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(1499KB) ( 207 )   采用热水回流法制备滨海刺芹愈伤组织提取物，基于高效液相色谱法建立同时测定滨海刺芹愈伤组织提取物中迷迭香酸、隐绿原酸、金丝桃苷、槲皮素-3-O-（6''-O-乙酰基）-β-D-吡喃葡萄糖苷四种多酚含量的方法，测定提取物对DPPH自由基、ABTS自由基清除能力。同时通过CCK-8法检测筛选样品给药浓度，建立痤疮丙酸杆菌诱导HaCaT细胞炎症模型，评价其抗炎功效。结果表明，提取物中隐绿原酸含量最高，为5.23 mg/g;迷迭香酸、槲皮素-3-O-（6''-O-乙酰基）-β-D-吡喃葡萄糖苷、金丝桃苷的含量依次为1.30，0.50，0.08 mg/g。提取物具有较好的抗氧化、抗炎能力，对DPPH自由基、ABTS自由基清除能力的IC50值分别为0.323 9，0.296 5 mg/mL，对痤疮丙酸杆菌诱导的HaCaT细胞分泌IL-1β，IL-8也具有显著抑制作用（P<0.05）。 The preparation of extracts from callus of Eryngium maritimum was conducted by hot water reflux method. A method for simultaneous determination of rosmarinic acid, cryptochlorogenic acid, hyperoside, quercetin-3-O-（6''-O-acetyl）-β-D-glucopyranoside in the callus extract of Eryngium maritimum was established based on high performance liquid chromatography. The scavenging ability of the extracts on DPPH and ABTS free radicals were determined. The screening samples were also assayed by the CCK-8 method to determine the concentration of drug administration and a model of HaCaT cell inflammation induced by Cutibacterium acnes was established to evaluate its anti-inflammatory efficacy. The results show that the extracts contain the highest amount of cryptochlorogenic acid at 5.23 mg/g, and the contents of rosmarinic acid, quercetin-3-O-（6''-O-acetyl）-β-D-glucopyranoside and hyperin were 1.30, 0.50 and 0.08 mg/g, respectively. The extracts display antioxidant and anti-inflammatory abilities. The IC50 values of the extracts on DPPH and ABTS free radical scavenging ability are 0.323 9 and 0.296 5 mg/mL, respectively, and also have significant inhibitory effects on the secretion of IL-1β and IL-8 in HaCaT cells induced by Cutibacterium acnes （P<0.05）. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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丹参素对UVB诱导的皮肤光老化小鼠的保护作用和抗氧化机制研究 Protective effect and antioxidant mechanism of Danshensu on UVB-induced skin photoaging in mice 王安娜, 方梦婕, 唐超, 岳天翔 2024 (1):  65-72.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.009 摘要 ( 94 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(2101KB) ( 61 )   研究丹参素（DSS）对紫外线B（UVB）诱导的皮肤光老化（SP）小鼠的保护作用和抗氧化机制。建立了UVB诱导的SP小鼠模型，使用3个剂量的DSS（20，40和80 mg/（kg·d））治疗小鼠8周，结束后分别测定了各组小鼠的表皮含水量。通过HE染色评价皮肤组织形态，Masson三色染色评价胶原蛋白沉积。按照试剂盒说明测定皮肤组织中氧化应激指标（SOD、CAT、GSH-Px和MDA）和炎症指标（TNF-α和IL-6）水平。通过RT-qPCT和Western blotting检测了皮肤组织中MMP-1、Collagen I、Nrf2、Keap1、HO-1、NF-κB p65和p-NF-κB p65的mRNA或蛋白水平。结果显示，DSS剂量依赖性地提高了UVB诱导的SP小鼠表皮含水量，减轻皮肤损伤，促进胶原形成（P<0.05）。DSS抑制了UVB诱导的SP小鼠皮肤组织中MMP-1的转录和表达，促进了Collagen的转录和表达（P<0.05）。DSS升高了UVB诱导的SP小鼠皮肤组织中SOD、CAT和GSH-Px的水平，降低了MDA的水平（P<0.05）。DSS降低了UVB诱导的SP小鼠皮肤组织中TNF-α和IL-6的水平（P<0.05）。DSS促进了UVB诱导的SP小鼠皮肤组织中Nrf2和HO-1的转录和表达，抑制了Keap1的转录和表达（P<0.05）。DSS抑制了UVB诱导的SP小鼠皮肤组织中p-NF-κB p65的表达（P<0.05）。本研究表明DSS可有效改善UVB诱导的小鼠SP，其机制与Nrf2和NF-κB信号通路有关。 The study aims to reveal the protective effect and antioxidant mechanism of Danshensu （DSS） on ultraviolet B （UVB）-induced skin photoaging （SP） in mice. In this study, a UVB-induced SP mouse model was established, and then the mice were treated with 3 doses of DSS （20, 40, and 80 mg/ （kg·d） for 8 weeks. After the treatment, the water content of the epidermis of the mice in each group was measured respectively. Skin tissue morphology was evaluated by HE staining, and collagen deposition was evaluated by Masson’s trichrome staining. The levels of oxidative stress indicators （SOD, CAT, GSH-Px and MDA） and inflammatory indicators （TNF-α and IL-6） in the skin tissue were determined according to the kit instructions. The mRNA or protein levels of MMP-1, CollagenI, Nrf2, Keap1, HO-1, NF-κB p65 and p-NF-κB p65 in the skin tissue were detected by RT-qPCT or Western blotting. The results show that DSS dose-dependently increases the water content of the epidermis of SP mice induced by UVB, alleviates skin damage, and promotes collagen formation （P<0.05）. DSS inhibits the UVB-induced transcription and expression of MMP-1 in the skin tissue of SP mice, and promotes the transcription and expression of Collagen （P<0.05）. DSS increases the levels of SOD, CAT and GSH-Px in the skin tissue of SP mice induced by UVB, and decreases the level of MDA （P<0.05）. DSS decreases the levels of TNF-α and IL-6 in the skin tissue of SP mice induced by UVB （P<0.05）. DSS promotes the transcription and expression of Nrf2 and HO-1 in the skin tissue of SP mice induced by UVB, and inhibits the transcription and expression of Keap1 （P<0.05）. DSS inhibits the expression of p-NF-κB p65 in the skin tissue of SP mice induced by UVB （P<0.05）. In conclusion, this study shows that DSS can effectively improve UVB-induced SP in mice, and its mechanism is related to Nrf2 and NF-κB signaling pathways. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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一款紧致化妆品的功效评价方法研究 A study on the method of evaluating the efficacy of a firming cosmetic 马月滢, 刘琦, 加萌, 王俊杰, 王玮, 赵华 2024 (1):  73-79.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.010 摘要 ( 121 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(3281KB) ( 89 )   通过对以棕榈酰五肽-4为主要功能成分化妆品的功效进行评价，研究建立人体紧致功效评价方法体系。筛选31名20~50岁女性受试者，分别在使用产品0周、4周和8周，通过客观测试数据、图像方法及受试者自我评估方法对皮肤各项指标进行评估，采集受试者脸颊、眼角部位的皮肤弹性、皮肤真皮密度等参数，以及TPEF图像及SHG图像，并进行比较分析。结果显示，8周后皮肤弹性、真皮密度（P<0.001）及真-表皮链接指数（DEJI）（P<0.01）有显著变化，与受试者自我评分结果一致，表明方法之间具有相关性。该研究方法可为建立化妆品紧致功效评价方法体系提供技术支持。 By evaluating the efficacy of a cosmetics with palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 as the main functional ingredient, the study establishes a clinical evaluation method system for firming efficacy. Thirty-one female subjects aged 20-50 were screened, and the skin indexes including the objective test data, image methods and subject self-assessment methods were evaluated after using the product for 0 week, 4 weeks and 8 weeks, respectively. The parameters of skin elasticity and skin dermal density in the cheeks and canthus of the subjects, as well as the TPEF images and the SHG images, were captured, and comparative analyses were carried out. The results show significant changes in skin elasticity, dermal density （P<0.001） and DEJI （P<0.01） after 8 weeks, which are consistent with the results of the subjects’ self-ratings, indicating a correlation between the methods. This research can provide technical supports for the establishment of a cosmetic firming efficacy evaluation method system. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

专论与综述

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祛斑美白类化妆品功效成分的研究现状 Advances of functional components in whitening cosmetic 李宁, 李恩念, 陈红波, 程芳, 邹衡芳, 陈鸿鹏 2024 (1):  80-89.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.011 摘要 ( 199 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF(1529KB) ( 137 )   皮肤细胞中黑色素沉着过度会导致皮肤疾病，如炎症后色素沉着、日光性黑子、黄褐斑和雀斑等。祛斑美白类化妆品可用于临床辅助治疗黑色素沉着过度，其作用机制涉及抑制黑色素合成、还原黑色素、抑制黑素小体转运等。祛斑美白类化妆品中的美白原料，通过抑制黑色素生物合成途径的限速酶酪氨酸酶，参与调控黑色素生物合成的信号通路，还原黑色素或抑制黑素小体转运等作用机制达到美白的作用。随着市场对祛斑美白类化妆品的需求日渐增加，越来越多的天然活性成分作为美白原料添加到化妆品中，但是存在着成分不明确、作用机理缺失等问题。文章梳理了现有祛斑美白类化妆品功效成分的作用机理并分类归纳讨论，旨在为皮肤色素沉着防治的临床策略以及祛斑美白类化妆品的产品开发提供理论依据。 Excessive accumulation of melanin pigments may result in skin-related disorders such as post inflammatory pigmentation, solar lentigo, melasma and freckles. The mechanism of action of whitening cosmetics is related to the inhibition of melanin synthesis, reduction of melanin, and inhibition of melanosome transport. The whitening raw materials in spot-removing and whitening cosmetics achieve whitening effects by inhibiting the rate-limiting enzyme tyrosinase of the melanin biosynthesis pathway, participating in the regulation of the melanin biosynthesis signaling pathway, and reducing melanin or inhibiting melanosome transport and other mechanisms of action. With the increasing market demand for spot-removing and whitening cosmetics, more and more natural active ingredients are added to the cosmetics as whitening raw materials, but there are problems such as unclear composition and missing mechanism of action. In sequence to provide a theoretical foundation for the clinical strategy of skin pigmentation prevention and treatment as well as the product development of whitening cosmetics, the action mechanisms of the existing whitening cosmetic efficacy components cosmetics are sorted out and discussed in this paper. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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蓝光导致皮肤色素沉着的发生机制研究 Review on the mechanisms of skin pigmentation caused by blue light 刘峻辰, 孟宪瑶, 凌霄, 虞旦, 郭苗苗, 李丽 2024 (1):  90-94.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.012 摘要 ( 102 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1888KB) ( 88 )   蓝光是一种波长为400~500 nm的可见光，其对人体主要危害有损伤眼周及眼部结构、加速皮肤老化、抑制褪黑素分泌、造成皮肤色素沉着等。当前，关于蓝光导致皮肤色素沉着的研究较少，文章首次系统地整理了蓝光导致皮肤色素沉着的发生机制，其主要包含蓝光对视蛋白3、α-MSH-MC1R通路、黑皮素受体、细胞因子等产生影响最后导致黑素生成增加，引发皮肤色素沉着。为后续相关研究提供了思路与理论基础。 Blue light is a visible light in the wavelength range of 400-500 nm, which can cause damage to the periocular and ocular structures, accelerate skin aging, inhibit melatonin secretion, and cause skin pigmentation. Compared with UV light, blue light causes more intense and long-lasting skin pigmentation, but there are few studies on the mechanisms of skin pigmentation caused by blue light. In this review, the mechanisms of skin pigmentation caused by blue light have been systematically summarized. It is briefly described that, blue light affects melanocytes by mediating the effect of opsin 3 and finally increases the production of tyrosinase and dopachrome tautomerase （DCT）, leading to increased melanin synthesis in the skin; blue light can also affect melanocortin receptor-1, which in turn affects the production of interleukin-1 and endothelin receptor-1, which in turn acts on melanocortin receptor-1 and finally affects the α-MSH-MC1R pathway, leading to increased melanin. The final effect on the α-MSH-MC1R pathway leads to increased melanin synthesis, triggering skin pigmentation. This review could provide a better understanding of the mechanisms of skin pigmentation caused by blue light and provide a theoretical basis for subsequent studies. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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水溶包装洗涤剂包装图像元素视觉特征分析与设计 Analysis and design of visual characteristics of image elements of water-soluble packagine detergent package 曾健, 王世红 2024 (1):  95-101.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.013 摘要 ( 57 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1245KB) ( 44 )   图像是包装设计视觉传达的关键元素。为更好地实现水溶包装洗涤剂包装设计功能，针对水溶包装洗涤剂包装图像元素展开视觉特征分析与设计。水溶包装洗涤剂包装中的图像元素主要表现方式分为：以绘画、摄影为制作与传播基础的具象图像元素，利用点、线、面的创新排列而成的抽象图像元素两种。包装研究与应用的主要目的是保护洗涤剂在运输与销售过程中的安全性，并集中呈现洗涤剂的相关信息，通过分析水溶包装洗涤剂包装图像元素的引人性、解析性、回忆性等视觉特征，提升设计人员获取水溶包装洗涤剂购买者心理感受的准确性，同时结合形态、色彩联想与文字情感等设计方向，提升水溶包装洗涤剂包装设计的信息传达功能。 Image is the key element of visual communication in packaging design. In order to better realize the package design function of water-soluble packaging detergent, visual feature analysis and design were carried out for the image elements of water-soluble packaging detergent package. The main expression methods of image elements in water-soluble packaging detergent package are divided into two types: concrete image elements based on painting and photography for production and dissemination, and abstract image elements using innovation arrangements of points, lines and surfaces. The main purpose of packaging research and application is to protect the safety of detergent in the process of transportation and sales, and focus on presenting the relevant information of detergent. By analyzing the visual characteristics such as humanization, analysis and recall of the image elements of water-soluble packaging detergent package, the accuracy of obtaining the psychological feelings of water-soluble packaging detergent buyers by the packaging designers is improved. At the same time, combining the design directions of form, color association and text emotion improves the information communication function of water-soluble packaging detergent package design. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

分析与检测

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高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中3种α-羟基酸及其酯 Determination of 3 kinds of α-hydroxy acids and their esters in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography 张丽媛, 程巧鸳, 陈岑, 李泽桦, 黄柳倩, 戚绿叶 2024 (1):  102-106.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.014 摘要 ( 96 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1113KB) ( 60 )   建立了高效液相色谱法（HPLC）同时测定化妆品中葡糖酸、葡糖酸内酯和乳糖酸的含量，并结合高效液相色谱-串联质谱联用法（HPLC-MS/MS）对结果进行确证。样品经水超声提取，并在氢氧化钠的作用下将葡糖酸、葡糖酸内酯、乳糖酸转化为葡糖酸盐和乳糖酸盐，采用高效液相色谱法，以0.04 mol/L的磷酸氢二铵水溶液和乙腈为流动相进行洗脱，Comixsil HCS （4.6 mm×150 mm，3 µm）色谱柱分离，二极管阵列检测器（214 nm）检测，外标法定量。采用高效液相色谱-串联质谱联用法，以0.1%甲酸水溶液和含0.1%甲酸乙腈为流动相进行梯度洗脱，Waters T3-C18 （2.1 mm×100 mm，1.8 µm）色谱柱分离，电喷雾电离，负离子多反应监测模式定性。结果显示，葡糖酸与乳糖酸在相应线性范围内线性关系良好，相关系数均大于0.999。葡糖酸与葡糖酸内酯的方法检出限为100 μg/g，乳糖酸的方法检出限为500 μg/g。3种化合物4种基质样品加标平均回收率为90.8%~110.1%，相对标准偏差为0.3%~4.4%。该方法操作简便、准确度好、灵敏度高，适用于化妆品中葡糖酸、葡糖酸内酯和乳糖酸的测定。 A method for the simultaneous determination of 3 kinds of α-hydroxy acids and their esters in cosmetics, including gluconic acid, glucolactone and lactose acid, was developed by high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC）, and the results were confirmed by high performance liquid chromatography- tandem mass spectrometry （HPLC-MS/MS）. The above three substances were extracted ultrasonically with water. The analytes were separated on a Comixsil HCS （4.6 mm×150 mm, 3 µm） column by elution with 0.04 mol/L diammonium hydrogen phosphate- acetonitrile as mobile phase, and detected at the wavelengths of 214 nm. Quantification analysis was performed by the external standard method. HPLC-MS/MS was used for gradient elution with 0.1% formic acid- acetonitrile containing 0.1% formic acid as mobile phase. The analytes were separated on a Waters T3-C18 （2.1 mm×100 mm, 1.8 µm） column. Qualitative analysis was performed by electronic spray ionization under a negative ion mode with multiple reaction monitoring （MRM）. The results indicate that gluconic acid and lactose acid show good linearity in its own concentration range with the correlation coefficient of R2>0.999. The detection limits of gluconic acid and glucolactone are 100 μg/g, and that of lactose acid is 500 μg/g. The average spiked recoveries of these three compounds in 4 cosmetic matrices are all in the range of 90.8%-110.1%, with the RSDs of 0.3%-4.4%. The results indicate that the method is simple, sensitive and accurate, and is suitable for the determination of 3 kinds of α-hydroxy acids and their esters in cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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UHPLC-MS/MS法测定面膜化妆品中甘草、人参和黄芩类功效成分 Determination of functional components of Glycyrrhizae, Ginseng and Scutellariae in facial masks by UHPLC-MS/MS 陆林玲, 鲁辉, 闵春艳, 钱叶飞 2024 (1):  107-113.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.015 摘要 ( 99 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF(1446KB) ( 64 )   建立了超高效液相色谱-三重四极杆质谱法（UHPLC-MS/MS）测定面膜化妆品中甘草功效成分（甘草苷、甘草酸）、人参功效成分（人参皂苷Rg1、人参皂苷Rb1、人参皂苷Re）和黄芩功效成分（黄芩苷）的方法，并用该方法对市售20批面膜样品进行风险监测。样品采用0.1%甲酸甲醇超声提取法，以0.1%甲酸水溶液-乙腈溶液为流动相，梯度洗脱，ACQUITY UPLC HSS T3（2.1 mm×100 mm，1.8 μm）色谱柱分离，以UHPLC-MS/MS负离子模式检测。同时对样品前处理条件及色谱-质谱条件进行优化，并对方法学进行验证。结果表明：甘草苷、黄芩苷在0.25~100 ng/mL及人参皂苷Rg1、人参皂苷Rb1、人参皂苷Re和甘草酸在0.50~200 ng/mL质量浓度范围内呈良好线性关系，相关系数大于0.998;检出限为0.41~6.4 μg/kg（S/N=3）;基质中加标回收率为95.9%~109.1%，相对标准偏差小于4.9%（n=6）。该方法适用于面膜化妆品中甘草、人参和黄芩功效成分的测定。 An analytical method was established for the determination of Glycyrrhizae functional components （liquiritin and glycyrrhizic acid）, Ginseng functional components （ginsenoside Rg1, ginsenoside Rb1, ginsenoside Re） and Scutellariae functional components （baicalin） in facial mask cosmetics with ultra-high performance liquid chromatography triple quadrupole mass spectrometry （UHPLC-MS/MS）. This method was used to monitor the risk of 20 batches of samples sold on the market. The samples were extracted by ultrasonic method using 0.1% formic acid in methanol. The mobile phase was 0.1% formic acid aqueous solution-acetonitrile solution, and the gradient elution was carried out. The samples were separated on the ACQUITY UPLC HSS T3（2.1 mm×100 mm, 1.8 μm） column and detected by UHPLC-MS/MS negative ion mode. At the same time, the pretreatment conditions and UHPLC-MS/MS conditions were optimized and the method was verified. The results show that the method shows good linearity in the mass concentration range of 0.25-100 ng/mL for liquiritin and baicalin, and 0.50-200 ng/mL for ginsenoside Rg1, ginsenoside Rb1, ginsenoside Re and glycyrrhizic acid, with R no less than 0.998. The limits of detection are in the range of 0.41-6.4 μg/kg （S/N=3）. The average recoveries in the sample matrix of facial masks are from 95.9% to 109.1%, with the relative standard deviations （RSDs） less than 4.9% （n=6）. This method is suitable for the determination of ginseng functional components in the ginseng cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中24种香豆素类化合物及质谱确证 Simultaneous determination of 24 coumarin compounds in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography and verification by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry 龙慧端, 鲁毅翔, 覃江兰, 张科明 2024 (1):  114-122.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.01.016 摘要 ( 70 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1153KB) ( 72 )   采用高效液相色谱法，建立了同时测定化妆品中24种香豆素类化合物含量的分析方法。乳液、膏霜、水基类样品和唇膏、粉饼等固态类样品分别采用甲醇、四氢呋喃-甲醇（1∶1）混合溶液超声提取后，经色谱柱分离，以甲醇-0.02 mol/L磷酸二氢钠缓冲液（pH 3.5）为流动相进行梯度洗脱，流速1.0 mL/min，二极管阵列检测器多波长检测，外标法定量。经高效液相色谱法检出的疑似阳性样品，采用液相色谱-串联质谱法进行确证。结果表明，24种香豆素类化合物在各自的质量浓度范围内呈良好的线性关系，相关系数r均≥0.999 6，检出限为2~19 mg/kg，定量限为5~63 mg/kg。在低、中、高三个加标水平下，方法回收率为94.4%~106.4%，相对标准偏差为0.5%~3.3%。该方法操作简便、准确性好，可用于化妆品中香豆素类化合物的定性筛查和定量测定。 An analytical method for simultaneous determination of 24 coumarin compounds in cosmetics was established by high performance liquid chromatography. Samples with certain fluidity, such as lotions, creams, and water-based samples, were directly extracted with methanol by ultrasonic treatment, while solid samples （lipsticks, pressed powders, etc.） were ultrasonically extracted with mixed solvent of tetrahydrofuran-methanol （1∶1）. The compounds were separated on a CAPCELL CORE MGII C18 （4.6×250 mm, 5 μm） column, and gradient elution was carried out with methanol and 0.02 mol/L sodium dihydrogen phosphate buffer （pH 3.5） as the mobile phase. The flow rate was 1.0 mL/min. The quantification was done by external standard method, with PDA detector at multi-wavelength, and the suspected positive samples were confirmed by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry. The results showed that the 24 coumarin compounds showed good linearity, with correlation coefficient≥0.999 6 in their respective mass concentration range. The limits of detection and limits of quantification were 2-19 mg/kg and 5-63 mg/kg, respectively. At the three spiked levels of low, medium and high, the average recoveries ranged from 94.4% to 106.4%, and the relative standard deviations were between 0.5% and 3.3%. This method was simple, accurate and suitable for the determination of 24 coumarin compounds in cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标