当期目录

2023年, 第53卷, 第12期　刊出日期：2023-12-22 上一期    下一期

基础研究

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新型拟双子表面活性剂构筑的蠕虫状胶束及其pH和温度响应行为 Temperature and pH responsive behavior of wormlike micelles formed by novel pseudo-gemini surfactant 潘婷, 吴俊辉, 裴晓梅, 崔正刚 2023 (12):  1361-1368.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.001 摘要 ( 150 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF(1758KB) ( 136 )   将短链二元酸（丁二酸（SA）、戊二酸（GA）、己二酸（AA））和长链N-（3-（二甲基氨基）丙基）硬脂酰胺（C18N3N）以1:2的摩尔比混合，通过静电相互作用，构筑了三种新型的拟双子表面活性剂。该过程无需复杂的合成。通过表面张力仪和流变仪测试了该系列表面活性剂的表面活性和流变性能。结果发现，2C18N3N/GA拟双子表面活性剂的cmc为4.60×10-5 mol/L，该值远低于传统双子表面活性剂，说明构筑的拟双子表面活性剂2C18N3N/GA具有很强的胶束聚集能力，2C18N3N/SA和2C18N3N/AA体系也具有类似的特征。在浓度超过50 mmol/L时，该系列表面活性剂可形成蠕虫状胶束，溶液表现出黏弹行为，且黏弹溶液具有较好的耐温耐剪切性能。还考查了上述黏弹溶液的pH和温度响应性，发现体系pH为6.1时，溶液黏度很高，pH为4.0或9.3时，黏度下降。随着温度的升高，体系的黏度也会迅速增加。在60 ℃时，该体系的零剪切黏度可高达11 967.73 Pa·s。该表面活性剂制备简单，性能优良，拓展了新型表面活性剂的制备方法和应用范围。 Three pseudo-gemini surfactants （2C18N3N/XA, XA=SA, GA and AA） were formed by non-covalently connecting dibasic acid（HOOC （CH2） nCOOH, n=2, 3 and 4, abbreviated as SA, GA and AA, respectively） with long-chain tertiary amine （C17H35CONHCH2CH2CH2N （CH3） 2） in the molar ratio of 1:2 through electrostatic interactions. The whole process had avoided any complicated synthetic procedures. The surface activity and rheological properties of the surfactants were investigated. The critical micelle concentration （cmc） of 2C18N3N/GA was 4.60×10-5 mmol/L, which was significantly lower than that of conventional gemini surfactants, indicative of strong aggregation ability. 2C18N3N/SA and 2C18N3N/AA also had low cmc values. These surfactants could form wormlike micelles when the concentrations were above 50 mmol/L, exhibiting viscoelastic behavior, and the viscoelastic solutions thereof had good temperature and shear resistance. Due to the tertiary amine group in the pseudo-gemini surfactant, it exhibited pH-responsive properties. It was found that when the pH was 6.1, the viscosity of the solution was very high, whereas when the pH was 4.0 or 9.3, the viscosity rapidly decreased. Furthermore, the pseudo-gemini surfactant was also responsive to temperature. With the increase of temperature, the viscosity of the system rapidly increased. At 60 ℃, the zero-shear viscosity of 2C18N3N/GA at 300 mmol/L could be as high as 11 967.73 Pa·s. These surfactants were simple to be prepared and showed excellent performance, which expanded the range of preparation and application of novel surfactants. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

科技讲座

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新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用（IV）——多重乳液 New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics (IV) Multiple emulsion 赵娜, 鲁梁玉, 尚亚卓 2023 (12):  1369-1376.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.002 摘要 ( 162 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF(1774KB) ( 161 )   多重乳液是一种乳状液（水包油型乳液或油包水型乳液）分散于另外一种连续相（油相或水相）中形成的水包油型乳液和油包水型乳液共存的复杂体系。多重乳液不但兼具了水包油型乳液和油包水型乳液的优势，而且具有独特的“三相两膜”的结构，使其在化妆品、医药、食品、材料等领域中展现出广阔的应用前景。本文首先介绍了多重乳液及其制备方法，总结了影响多重乳液稳定性的因素；概括了多重乳液在化妆品领域的应用优势，包括对功效成分的保护、隔离、缓释、促渗等。在此基础上，阐述了多重乳液在化妆品领域的研究现状，并对目前已报道的特殊多重乳液进行了介绍。最后，对现阶段多重乳液在化妆品领域实际应用中存在的问题及后续应该研究的重点及方向提出了个人看法，旨在为性能优异的多重乳在化妆品领域的实际应用提供依据，也为性能优异的化妆品的开发及活性成分的有效应用提供参考。 Multiple emulsion is a complex system in which an emulsion （oil-in-water emulsion or water-in-oil emulsion） is dispersed in another continuous phase （oil phase or water phase）. The coexistence of oil-in-water emulsion （O/W） and water-in-oil emulsion （W/O） endows multiple emulsion not only the advantages of both, but also the unique structure of “three-phase and two-membrane”. Multiple emulsions have shown a broad application prospect in the fields of cosmetics, medicine, food, materials, etc.. In this review, multiple emulsions and their preparation methods were introduced, and the factors affecting the stability of multiple emulsions were summarized. The advantages of application of multiple emulsions in the field of cosmetics were introduced, including the embedding and multiple protective effects, the sustained-release property, and the penetration-enhancing effect. On this basis, the research status of multiple emulsions in cosmetic field was reviewed, and the special multiple emulsions were also introduced. Finally, the personal views on the problems of multiple emulsions in practical application were put forward, which might provide some necessary reference for the application of multiple emulsions and provide useful information both for the effective application of active ingredients and the development of cosmetic products with excellent performance. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

开发与应用

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SrWO4光催化剂的制备及其光催化降解盐酸金霉素的研究 Preparation of SrWO4 photocatalyst and its photocatalytic degradation of chlortetracycline hydrochloride 刘慧婷, 杜隆达, 覃礼堂 2023 (12):  1377-1384.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.003 摘要 ( 69 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(2495KB) ( 156 )   通过草酸络合法合成了具有高的氧缺陷和[WO4]四面体晶格扭曲的钨酸锶（SrWO4）光催化剂。SrWO4光催化剂为四方相，颗粒近似呈球形，不含其它任何杂质。颗粒间出现了少许粘连团聚现象，平均颗粒尺寸约为70 nm。在280 nm波长的峰激发下，SrWO4光催化剂有两个明显的蓝光发射峰位于400和440 nm。以盐酸金霉素为目标降解抗生素，研究了不同抗生素质量浓度、催化剂含量和pH值对SrWO4光催化剂光催化活性的影响规律。实验证实，SrWO4光催化剂降解盐酸金霉素时的较佳抗生素质量浓度为100 mg/L、催化剂含量为1 g/L和pH值为5.6。机理分析表明，SrWO4光催化剂中具有的氧缺陷和[WO4]四面体的晶格扭曲，使得它同时具有高的光致发光性能和光催化活性。 The strontium tungstate （SrWO4） photocatalyst with high oxygen defect and [WO4] tetrahedral lattice distortion was synthesized by oxalic acid complexation method. The SrWO4 photocatalyst was tetragonal phase, and the particles were approximately spherical and did not contain any impurities. There was a slight adhesion and agglomeration among the particles, and the average particle size was approximately 70 nm. The SrWO4 photocatalyst exhibited two distinct blue emission peaks at 400 and 440 nm under the excitation peak of 280 nm. Chlortetracycline hydrochloride was used as the target antibiotic to be degraded. The effects of antibiotic concentration, catalyst content and pH value on the photocatalytic activity of SrWO4 photocatalyst were studied. The experimental results showed that, the optimum antibiotic concentration, catalyst content and pH value for SrWO4 photocatalyst to degrade chlortetracycline hydrochloride were 100 mg/L, 1 g/L and 5.6, respectively. The mechanism analysis showed that the oxygen defect and the lattice distortion of [WO4] tetrahedron in SrWO4 photocatalyst led to high photoluminescence and photocatalytic activity at the same time. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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复方丁香挥发油对UV致小鼠皮肤光老化损伤的保护作用 Protective effect of compound clove volatile oil on UV induced skin photoaging damage in mice 丁羽, 吴毅, 任明诗, 李子涵, 刘波 2023 (12):  1385-1391.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.004 摘要 ( 83 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(2609KB) ( 73 )   采用气相色谱-质谱联用（GC-MS）法分析复方丁香挥发油的成分，并将复方丁香挥发油涂于KM小鼠背部去毛处，以UVA/UVB联合照射50天，通过皮肤表观评价、HE和Masson染色及Western Blot检测皮肤中Ⅰ型胶原和MMP-3蛋白的表达，对其抗光老化作用进行评价。结果发现，复方丁香挥发油主要以丁香酚（31.96%）、（E）-藁本内酯（20.56%）、咖啡因（12.72%）等成分为主，能显著改善UV致小鼠光老化皮肤外观和组织结构，增加胶原纤维，并可上调Ⅰ型胶原蛋白表达，下调MMP-3蛋白表达。总之，复方丁香挥发油可改善紫外线致小鼠皮肤皱纹、粗糙，抑制光老化皮肤胶原降解，促进皮肤修复。 Photoaging is a process of premature skin aging caused by prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It is characterized by sunspots, coarse wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and photochemical keratosis. The protective effect of volatile oil of compound clove on the skin of mice induced by UV was studied in this paper. Firstly, the main components of volatile oil of compound clove were analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry （GC-MS）. After the back irradiation, the skin tissues of the irradiated area were stained by HE and Masson to observe the changes of the skin morphology and collagen fibers in the dermis. The expressions of collagen Ⅰ and MMP-3 in skin were detected by Western Blot. The results show that the volatile oil of compound clove contains 50 components, of which 11 components account for 83.56% of the chromatographic peak area. The main components are eugenol （31.96%）, （E）-3-butylidene-4, 5-dihydroisobenzofuran-1（3H）-one （20.56%） and caffeine （12.72%）. Compared with the model group, compound clove volatile oil significantly improves the appearance and tissue structure of the photoaged mice skin, and increases collagen fibers. The results of Western Blot show that compound clove volatile oil can up-regulate the expression of typeⅠcollagen and down-regulate the expression of MMP-3 protein. In conclusion, compound clove volatile oil can improve skin wrinkles and roughness caused by ultraviolet light, inhibit collagen degradation in photoaged skin, and promote skin repair. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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改性油脂乙氧基化物单独稳定的水包油高内相乳液 Oil-in-water high internal phase emulsions solely stabilized by modified oil ethoxylates 韩亚楠, 台秀梅, 刘英, 耿涛, 白艳云, 郭凌霄 2023 (12):  1392-1397.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.005 摘要 ( 67 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF(2947KB) ( 202 )   以1.5wt%改性油脂乙氧基化物为单一乳化剂，体积分数86%甜杏仁油为油相，制备了一系列水包油高内相乳液。利用光学显微镜和流变仪研究了不同EO加合数和不同碳链长度改性油脂对形成乳液粒径和流变性能的影响。结果表明，对于改性乳木果油稳定的高内相乳液，乳化性能随着EO值的增加而呈现先增大后减小的趋势。对于不同碳链长度改性油脂稳定的高内相乳液，C12~C14分布的椰子油基和棕榈仁油乙氧基化物制备的乳液黏度和储能模量（G'）相近且较低；而C16~C18分布的乳木果油基乙氧基化物制备的乳液黏度和储能模量更高。此外，从EO数分布和碳链分布角度对不同样品间的差异进行了机理解释。制备的高内相乳液均具有良好的稳定性，在日用化妆品的开发与应用方面具有重要价值。 A series of oil-in-water high internal phase emulsions with volume fraction 86% of oil phase of sweet almond oil were prepared by using 1.5 wt% modified oil ethoxylates as the single emulsifier. The effects of different EO addition numbers and carbon chain lengths on the particle size and rheological properties of emulsions were studied by optical microscope and rheometer. The results showed that, the emulsifying ability first increased and then decreased with the increase of EO number for high internal phase emulsion stabilized with modified shea butter. The high internal phase emulsions prepared with coconut oil ethoxylate and palm kernel oil ethoxylate both with carbon chain length of C12-14 showed similar viscosity and storage modulus （G'）. However, the viscosity and G' of the high internal phase emulsion prepared with shea butter ethoxylate with carbon chain length of C16-18 were higher. In addition, the differences between different samples were explained from the perspective of EO number distribution and carbon chain distribution. All the high internal phase emulsions thus prepared had excellent stability and could be potentially used in cosmetics, food, drug delivery, encapsulation materials, etc. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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联结基团对甜菜碱型双子表面活性剂清洁压裂液性能的影响 Effect of spacer on the performance of Gemini betaine surfactant in clean fracturing fluid 张永康, 刘萌萌, 万智卫, 王耀聪, 田咪咪, 秋列维 2023 (12):  1398-1404.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.006 摘要 ( 69 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(2026KB) ( 75 )   甜菜碱型双子表面活性剂因具有低污染、低伤害优势，可作为清洁压裂液应用于油田开采。以芥酸、N，N-二甲基-1，3丙二胺、3-氯-2-羟基丙磺酸钠为原料，分别以六亚甲基二异氰酸酯（简称HDI）、甲苯二异氰酸酯（简称TDI）、异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯（简称IPDI）为联结基团，合成了不同联结基的甜菜碱型双子表面活性剂GAS-22-n （n=IPDI，HDI，TDI），研究了联结基团对其性能的影响。实验结果表明：GAS-22-HDI结构中的柔性基团长碳链易于弯曲，分子间作用力强，受外力影响较小，更易形成胶团，使其具有良好的抗盐性、较低的表面张力和cmc值。而GAS-22-TDI结构中的刚性基团苯环体积较大，胶束聚集形成较粗的蠕虫状聚集体，进一步构成致密的三维网络结构，赋予其良好的耐温耐剪切性、悬砂性和黏性。 Gemini betaine surfactants have the advantages of low pollution and low damage, which can be used in clean fracturing fluids for oilfield development. In this work, three Gemini betaine surfactants GAS-22-n （n=IPDI, HDI and TDI） with different spacers were synthesized by using erucic acid, N, N-dimethyl-1, 3-propanediamine and sodium 3-chloro-2-hydroxypropanesulfonate as raw materials, and hexamethylene diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate and isophorone diisocyanate as spacers. The effects of spacers on the properties were studied. The experimental results showed that, the long carbon chain of the spacer in GAS-22-HDI structure was flexible and easy to bend, exhibiting strong intermolecular interactions and being less influenced by external forces, which made it easier to form micelles and have good salt resistance, low surface tension and low cmc. The rigid benzene ring in GAS-22-TDI structure had a larger volume, and the micelles fused to form wormlike aggregates, further forming a dense three-dimensional network structure, endowing it with good temperature resistance, shear resistance, sand suspension, and viscosity. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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生育酚纳米乳液的制备及性能研究 Preparation and properties of α-tocopherol nanoemulsions 蔡国强, 徐雯雯, 权琰, 潘卫, 张蕾, 何一波 2023 (12):  1405-1411.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.007 摘要 ( 82 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(3064KB) ( 64 )   为提高α-生育酚（α-Toc）的稳定性和活性，利用超分子包合机理制备纳米乳液，得到了一种稳定性好、透皮效果佳、抗氧化性能优异的α-Toc纳米传递载体。考察了聚山梨醇酯（Tween）的种类、羟丙基-β-环糊精（HP-β-CD）的添加量和α-Toc溶液的添加量对纳米乳液粒径的影响，并借助傅里叶红外光谱、透射电子显微镜、纳米粒度分析仪、热重分析仪和Franz扩散池研究了α-Toc纳米乳液的包埋情况和性能评价。结果表明，所制备的α-Toc超分子纳米乳液的粒径小且分布均匀，在0 ℃和室温条件下具有良好的储藏稳定性。纳米乳液可以显著增强α-Toc的热稳定性，比未经过包裹的α-Toc具有更优异的抗氧化能力，纳米乳液在化妆品配方中可有效促进α-Toc的透皮吸收。 To improve the stability and activity of α-tocopherol （α-Toc）, a nanoemulsion was prepared by supramolecular inclusion method, which was a kind of nanocarrier for α-Toc with good stability, good transdermal effect and excellent anti-oxidation. The effects of the types of polysorbates （Tweens）, the amount of hydroxypropyl β-cyclodextrin （HP-β-CD） and the amount of α-Toc solution on the particle size of the nanoemulsion were investigated. The encapsulation condition and performance evaluation of α-Toc nanoemulsion were studied by Fourier infrared spectroscopy, transmission electron microscopy, nanoparticle size analysis, thermogravimetric analysis and Franz diffusion cell method. The results showed that the obtained α-Toc supramolecular nanoemulsion had small particle size and uniform distribution and had good storage stability both at 0 ℃ and room temperature. This nanoemulsion could significantly enhance the thermal stability of α-Toc, and it showed better antioxidant capacity than the nonencapsulated α-Toc. The nanoemulsion could also effectively promote the transdermal absorption of α-Toc in cosmetic formula. This work could provide research basis for the application of nanocarriers in the field of daily-use chemical industry. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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中国年轻女性油性皮肤分类方法与特点研究 A study on the classification approach and characteristics of oily skin in young Chinese females 杨笑笑, 颜欢, 尹雅婷, 易帆 2023 (12):  1412-1420.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.008 摘要 ( 141 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF(2184KB) ( 182 )   油性皮肤的护理是中国年轻女性普遍面临的问题之一。目前，皮肤类型的分析在很大程度上基于主观评估，文献中尚未报道基于无创性皮肤测试设备的油性皮肤分类标准。本研究基于箱形图数据分布和机器学习聚类算法，详细讨论了油性皮肤的无创、客观、定量分类方法，并与皮肤科医生经验值进行互相佐证对比。在此基础上，通过多功能探头测试仪和面部皮肤成像系统定量采集了皮肤屏障、色度、弹性、痤疮等指标数据，分析了油性皮肤的伴随特点和易感皮肤问题，明晰了中国年轻女性油性皮肤的特点，并评估了油性皮肤的痘、敏风险程度。结果显示，基于面部水油分布的箱形图分类法优于本研究中的其他两类方法，油性皮肤的伴随特点为屏障受损、肤色暗沉、弹性较差、痤疮和毛孔多，且痘肌的发生风险在油性皮肤中显著增高。 Oily skincare is one of the common problems confronting young Chinese females. Currently, skin type characterization is largely based on self-reports and qualitative assessments by dermatologists. Quantitative classification approach for oily skin totally based on the non-invasive skin measurement devices has not been reported in the literatures. In this study, based on box-plot data and machine learning clustering algorithms for 2000 Chinese female subjects （mean aged 25.90±2.61）, non-invasive, objective, and quantitative classification approach for oily skin were initially established and compared with dermatologists’ empirical results for mutual corroboration. On this basis, this study quantitatively collected data on skin barrier, chromaticity, elasticity, acne and other indicators through a multifunctional probe tester and a facial skin imaging system, analyzed the accompanying characteristics of oily skin and susceptible skin problems, clarified the characteristics of oily skin in young Chinese females, and evaluated the risk level of acne and sensitivity of oily skin, with a view to providing scientific care and guidance for Chinese young females with oily skin groups. The results show that the box-plot classification method based on facial hydro-oil distribution is superior to the other two types of methods. The accompanying characteristics of oily skin are poor barrier, dull complexion, less elasticity, more acne and pores. In addition, the risk of acne-prone skin is significantly higher in oily skin based on odds ratio. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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复合多肽延缓小鼠皮肤衰老的功效研究 Effects of compositions of bioactive peptides on skin aging in mice 徐雅妮, 杨凯业, 朱溶滔, 刘光荣, 韩萍, 杜志云 2023 (12):  1421-1428.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.009 摘要 ( 85 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(4956KB) ( 90 )   通过细胞增殖、抗氧化、抗炎以及促进胶原蛋白4个细胞实验研究了棕榈酰三肽-5，五肽-3，大豆多肽，类蛇毒肽和六肽-11 5种多肽的抗衰能力和复合后的效果提升作用，采用UVB联合D-半乳糖皮下注射造模方式研究了5种多肽复合后的皮肤抗衰老作用。结果表明，5种多肽具有一定的促细胞增殖、抗氧化、抗炎及促胶原蛋白合成能力，且5种多肽复合后具有显著的效果提升作用，复合多肽能够显著改善和缓解UVB联合D-半乳糖皮下注射引起的小鼠皮肤表皮增厚、胶原较少、弹性蛋白减少情况，并且能够显著抑制造模引起的IL-1，IL-6，TNF-α表达上调，抑制MMP3，MMP9，β-半乳糖苷酶的表达。以上结果表明5种多肽复合能够通过缓解UVB联合D-半乳糖皮下注射造模造成的表皮增厚、炎症、细胞外基质流失及衰老相关酶表达增加来发挥皮肤抗衰老作用。 Delaying skin aging has always been a hot topic in cosmetic research. In recent years, it has been reported that active peptides have the effect of delaying skin aging, thus research on substances that delaying skin aging is of great significance to the development of cosmetics and the application in the field of skin treatment. In the present study, we evaluated the anti-aging abilities of five bioactive peptides and the enhancing effect of the poly-peptide composition containing five bioactive peptides by four cell experiments and Elisa assay of cell proliferation, anti-oxidation, anti-inflammation, and promotion of collagen. Then, UVB radiation combined with D-galactose subcutaneous injection was adopted to establish animal skin aging model to investigate the anti-aging effects of the poly-peptide composition. Our data demonstrates that the five bioactive peptides have certain ability to promote cell proliferation, anti-oxidation, anti-inflammatory and promote collagen synthesis, and the poly-peptide composition have a significant enhancing effect in vitro. Importantly, after the administration of poly-peptide composition in vivo, the epidermal thickness decreases and tends to restore to normal （P<0.05）, and the contents of collagen and elastin increase, respectively （P<0.05）. Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay results show that after the administration of poly-peptide composition, the expression of IL-1, IL-6, and TNF-α are down-regulated （P<0.05）, the expression of MMP3 and MMP9 is inhibited （P<0.05）, and the increased expression of β-galactosidase is significantly reduced （P<0.05）. The above results suggest that the composition of five bioactive peptide can play an anti-aging effect on the skin caused by UVB radiation combined with D-galactose subcutaneous injection. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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透明质酸锌的护肤功效研究 Study on the skin care efficacy of zinc hyaluronate 郭海姣, 王晓娜, 杨素珍, 袁春颖, 任轩, 韩婷婷 2023 (12):  1429-1436.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.010 摘要 ( 134 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF(1740KB) ( 122 )   以不同分子量透明质酸锌为研究对象，通过斑马鱼保湿、皮脂腺细胞SZ95的脂滴检测、5α还原酶抑制作用、成纤维细胞增殖、Ⅰ型胶原蛋白含量检测、巨噬细胞的炎症因子抑制试验，对其体外保湿、控油、紧致、舒缓功效进行了研究。结果显示0.5%中分子透明质酸锌可以抑制斑马鱼因高渗透压引起的失水，具有显著的保湿功效；大分子透明质酸锌可以通过抑制5α还原酶达到控油功效，中分子、小分子透明质酸锌可以通过抑制脂滴合成、抑制5α还原酶达到控油功效；小分子透明质酸锌有良好的促进成纤维细胞增殖作用，促进作用呈现剂量依赖性，中分子透明质酸锌在质量浓度为125，12.5和1.25 μg/mL时，均可显著促进Collagen I的生成；大分子、中分子、小分子透明质酸锌在质量浓度为25，125 μg/mL时均可显著抑制炎症因子IL-1α，TNF-α，PGE 2的表达。实验结果表明，透明质酸锌具有良好的保湿、控油、紧致、舒缓的功效。 With zinc hyaluronate of different molecular weight as the research object, the in vitro moisturizing, oil control, firming and soothing effects were studied by the zebrafish mosturiztion test, the lipid drop detection of sebacogland cell SZ95, the inhibition of 5α reductase, the proliferation of fibroblasts, the detection of type Ⅰ collagen content, and the inhibition of inflammatory factor of macrophages. The results show that 0.5% zinc hyaluronate can inhibit the water loss caused by high osmotic pressure of zebrafish and has significant moisturizing effect. Large molecules of zinc hyaluronate can achieve oil control effect by inhibiting 5α reductase. Medium and small molecules of zinc hyaluronate can achieve oil control effect by inhibiting the synthesis of lipid droplets and inhibiting 5α reductase. Small molecules of zinc hyaluronic acid can promote fibroblast proliferation in a dose-dependent way. Collagen I formation is significantly promoted by medium molecules of zinc hyaluronic acid at 125, 12.5 and 1.25 μg/mL. The expressions of IL-1α, TNF-α and PGE 2 are significantly inhibited by large, medium and small molecules of zinc hyaluronate at the mass concentrations of 25 and 125 μg/mL. Experiments show that zinc hyaluronate has good moisturizing, oil control, firming, and soothing effect. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

专论与综述

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环境污染物布洛芬吸附材料的研究进展 Research progress of adsorbent materials for environmental pollutant ibuprofen 肖璐, 荣群, 白希, 莫洪波, 范维刚 2023 (12):  1437-1442.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.011 摘要 ( 71 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF(1777KB) ( 126 )   目前，由于布洛芬引起的环境污染问题日益严重，危害人们的身体健康，如何解决工业生产和日常生活所产生的布洛芬污染成为一个迫切需要解决的科学问题。因此，国内外学者在开发新型吸附材料方面开展了一系列研究。文章概述了布洛芬的性质及污染现状等，重点总结了目前几类重要的布洛芬吸附材料。生物质炭材料具有环保、成本低、吸附能力较强、不产生二次污染等特点，使用广泛，应用价值和发展前景较好。分子印迹材料具有良好的生物相容性，也具有其他材料无法比拟的特异性分子识别能力，是一种新型的吸附功能材料，发展空间很大。介孔材料具有极高的比表面积、规则有序的孔道结构、狭窄的孔径分布等特点，是一种较好的吸附布洛芬的功能材料。另外，国内外学者利用天然聚合物、复合纳米材料、表面活性剂等其他材料，通过优化和改性设计合成了多种吸附性能优异的高分子材料。 At present, the environmental pollution caused by ibuprofen is becoming more and more serious, which is a danger to people’s health. How to solve the pollution caused by ibuprofen produced in industrial production and daily life has become an urgent scientific problem. Therefore, domestic and foreign researchers have carried out many studies on the development of new adsorbent materials. In this review, the properties and pollution status of ibuprofen were summarized, and several important types of adsorbent materials for ibuprofen were summarized. Biochar material has the characteristics of environmentally friendly, low cost, strong adsorption capacity and no secondary pollution. It has been widely used and has good application value and development prospect. Molecularly imprinted materials have good biocompatibility and incomparable molecular recognition ability. Molecularly imprinted materials are a new type of adsorptive functional materials with large development space. Mesoporous materials have the characteristics of extremely high specific surface area, regular and ordered pore structure, and narrow pore size distribution, which are good functional materials for adsorption of ibuprofen. In addition, natural polymers, composite nanomaterials, surfactants and other materials have been used to synthesize a variety of polymer materials with excellent adsorption properties through optimization and modification. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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液质联用技术在化妆品抗感染类药物检测中的应用 Application of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry in the detection of anti-infective drugs in cosmetics 胡贝, 李丽霞, 丁晓萍, 吕稳, 李晓健, 李琼 2023 (12):  1443-1450.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.012 摘要 ( 81 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1621KB) ( 83 )   概述了化妆品中添加抗感染类药物的作用及对人体的安全风险，液质联用技术常用的质量分析器种类、特点及应用领域。介绍了《化妆品安全技术规范》（2015年版）中化妆品抗感染类药物的检测方法，并列出了国内外文献报道的应用液相色谱-三重四极杆串联质谱、实时直接分析-高分辨质谱、超高效液相色谱-四极杆/静电场轨道阱高分辨质谱、超高效液相色谱-线性离子阱/静电场轨道阱高分辨质谱和超高效液相色谱-四极杆-飞行时间高分辨质谱检测抗感染类药物的情况，并包含了《化妆品安全技术规范》（2015年版）中尚无检测方法的三种物质，分别是丹诺沙星、甲氧苄啶和洛硝达唑。本文可以为行业相关科研人员提供参考资料，为相关检验检测机构的高效筛查和风险监测提供方向，为标准检测方法的制修订提供科学依据。最后对化妆品中抗感染类药物的检测方法的开发趋势进行了介绍。 The effects and safety risks of adding anti-infective drugs in cosmetics were summarized. The common types, characteristics and application fields of liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry were introduced. The methods in “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics （2015 Edition）” for determination of anti-infective drugs were also listed in this paper. The advantages of various detection methods were introduced, including liquid chromatography triple quadrupole tandem mass spectrometry （LC-MS/MS）, direct real-time analysis-high resolution mass spectrometry （DART-Q-Exactive-Orbitrap-MS）, ultra-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole/electrostatic field orbitrap high resolution mass spectrometry （UPLC-Q-Orbitrap MS）, ultra high performance liquid chromatography-linear ion trap/orbitrap high resolution mass spectrometry （UPLC-LTQ/orbitrap MS） and ultra high performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole-time-of-flight high resolution mass spectrometry （UPLC-Q-TOF-MS）. In the sample screening process, some scholars detected three compounds that had not yet been detected in the “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics （2015 Edition）”, namely danofloxacin, trimethoprim and ronidazole. This paper can provide data for the relevant scientific research work in cosmetics. At the same time, the risk monitoring work of cosmetics in relevant testing institution will have direction and ideas after understanding the above content. In addition, the exploratory research on the correction of detection method will be more efficient and scientific. Finally, the trend of using liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry to establish methods for determination of anti-infective drugs in cosmetics is recommended. Liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry is still the preferred method for the determination of anti-infective drugs in cosmetics in the future. Above all, high resolution mass spectrometry will be more widely used in the confirmation of known substances and screening of unknown substances. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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用于抗糖化功效评价的细胞模型研究现状及应用前景 Cell model research status and application prospects for the evaluation of anti-glycation efficacy 曹晨灿, 谭淇丹, 刘蕾, 杨小玉, 陈海峰 2023 (12):  1451-1458.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.013 摘要 ( 144 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1940KB) ( 160 )   综述了糖化反应作用机制、晚期糖化终产物（AGEs）的分类、糖化对皮肤的影响、抗糖化功效评价方法以及国内外用于抗糖化功效评价细胞模型的研究现状。根据各细胞功能不同，总结了角质形成细胞、成纤维细胞、免疫细胞、黑色素细胞和血管内皮细胞5种类型的细胞在抗糖化功效评价细胞模型中的应用，分别针对糖化引起的皮肤屏障受损、胶原流失、色素沉着、氧化应激以及炎症反应等问题。根据建模刺激方式的不同，总结了高浓度葡萄糖、甲基乙二醛/乙二醛、AGEs 3种刺激方式在糖化损伤细胞模型中的应用，分别针对糖化反应作用机制中的早期阶段、中期阶段以及AGEs作用阶段。展望了用于抗糖化功效评价的细胞模型应用前景，以期对抗糖化功效评价细胞模型标准方法的建立提供实验基础以及抗糖化功效原料的筛选提供理论依据。 This paper reviews the mechanism of glycation reaction, the classification of advanced glycation end products （AGEs）, the effects of glycation on skin, the evaluation methods of anti-glycation efficacy and the current research status of the cell models used for the evaluation of anti-glycation efficacy at home and abroad. According to the different cell functions, the application of five types of keratinocytes （HaCaT）, fibroblasts, immune cells （RAW264.7/THP-1）, melanocytes and vascular endothelial cells （HUVECs） in the evaluation cell model of anti-glycation efficacy was summarized. They are aimed at the skin barrier damage, collagen loss, pigmentation, oxidative stress and inflammation caused by glycation. According to the different modeling stimulation modes, the application of three stimulation modes of high glucose, methylglyoxal/glyoxal （MGO/GO） and AGEs in the cell model of glycation injury was summarized, aiming at the early stage, middle and late stage of the mechanism of glycation reaction and the action stage of AGEs. This review looks forward to the application prospect of cell models for anti-glycation efficacy evaluation, in order to provide an experimental basis for the establishment of standard methods for anti-glycation efficacy evaluation cell models and provide a theoretical basis for the screening of anti-glycation efficacy raw materials. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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云南特色植物资源在化妆品中的研究与应用 Research and application of Yunnan characteristic plant resources in cosmetics 孙晓曼, 孟宪瑶, 周雯, 郭苗苗, 凌霄, 李丽 2023 (12):  1459-1465.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.014 摘要 ( 142 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF(1613KB) ( 136 )   基于植物提取物的安全性及功效性，植物资源已被广泛应用于医药、食品、农业等领域，中草药等特色植物的开发是我国植物化妆品的独特优势。据《2021年云南省生态环境状况公报》显示，云南有已知高等植物19 333种（占全国50.1%），其中中国特有高等植物8 772种，211种植物为云南地区特有或仅在云南地区分布。近年来，云南特色植物在化妆品功效原料筛选、有效成分提取、功效验证等研究上均取得成效，成为未来化妆品市场发展的重要趋势。文章从云南16市州的地貌特点以及云南地区特色植物资源的区域分布、生长季节和产量概况出发，首次系统分析粗茎秦艽（Gentiana crassicaulis）、赤桉（Eucalyptus camaldulensis）、云南重楼（Paris polyphylla var. yunnanensis）、铁皮石斛（Dendrobium officinale）等22种云南特色植物资源在祛痘、保湿、美白、抗皱紧致等功效化妆品中的应用现状及前景，为云南特色植物作为化妆品功效原料的研究和应用提供理论支持。 Based on the safety and efficacy of plant extracts, plant resources have been widely used in the fields of medicine, food and agriculture. The development of herbs and other characteristic plants is a unique advantage of botanical cosmetics in China. According to the 2021 Yunnan Ecological and Environmental Status Bulletin, Yunnan has 19 333 known species of higher plants （50.1% of the country）, including 8 772 species of Chinese endemic higher plants, and 211 species of plants are endemic to or distributed only in Yunnan. This paper presents an overview of the topographical features of 16 cities in Yunnan and the regional distribution, growing seasons and production of characteristic plant resources in Yunnan. And using the above overview as a starting point, this paper systematically analyzes for the first time the distribution of Gentiana crassicaulis, Eucalyptus camaldulensis, Paris polyphylla var. yunnanensis, Dendrobium officinale and other 22 Yunnan characteristic plant resources in the development of anti-acne, moisturizing, whitening, anti-wrinkle and firming cosmetics of the current situation and the application prospects. This study provides reliable theoretical support for the research and efficacy application of Yunnan’s characteristic plant materials as cosmetic ingredients. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

分析与检测

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高效液相色谱-蒸发光散射法测定脂质体中神经酰胺NP和AP含量 Determination of ceramide NP and AP content in liposomes by high performance liquid chromatography-evaporative light scattering 赵格格, 苏温柔, 王飞飞 2023 (12):  1466-1471.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.015 摘要 ( 95 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(1953KB) ( 121 )   建立了高效液相色谱-蒸发光散射法检测神经酰胺脂质体中神经酰胺NP和神经酰胺AP两种成分含量的方法。神经酰胺脂质体原料样品经甲醇-异丙醇（体积比7:3）破乳并超声处理，采用色谱柱Agilent ZORBAX StableBond C8（4.6×150 mm，3.5 µm）分离，以纯乙腈为流动相A，含0.1%甲酸的甲醇-异丙醇（体积比7:3）为流动相B进行梯度洗脱，流速为1.0 mL/min，柱温40 ℃，蒸发器温度90 ℃，雾化器温度70 ℃，氮气流速1.0 L/min。结果表明，神经酰胺脂质体中NP和AP的定量限分别为3和6 μg/mL，检出限分别为1和2 μg/mL，重复性和精密度RSD均小于2%，在NP为50~500 μg/mL和AP为25~250 μg/mL的质量浓度范围内线性关系良好（R2>0.999），不同质量浓度水平下的回收率为96.2%~105.1%。该方法简便可靠，重现性好，可用于不同脂质体中神经酰胺NP和AP的分离与含量测定。 Simultaneous chromatographic separations of ceramide NP and ceramide AP in ceramide liposomes were carried out by high-performance liquid chromatography （HPLC） coupled to evaporative light scattering detector （ELSD）. The ceramide liposomes samples were treated with methanol-isopropanol （volume ratio 7:3） and analyzed by Agilent ZORBAX StableBond C8 （4.6×150 mm, 3.5 μm） column. The simultaneous separation of ceramide NP and AP was achieved by gradient elution with 0.1% formic acid in methanol-isopropanol （volume ratio 7:3） and acetonitrile as the mobile phases. The flow rate was 1.0 mL/min and the column temperature was 40 ℃. Evaporator and nebulizer temperature were set at 90 ℃ and 70 ℃, and the gas flow rate was 1.0 L/min. The result shows the detection limits of ceramide NP and AP in ceramide liposomes are 3 and 6 μg/mL, respectively, and the quantitative limits are 1 and 2 μg/mL, respectively. The RSD of test on ceramide NP and AP repeatability and precision are all less than 2%, and the linear relationship of calibration curves for ceramide NP and AP is good （R2>0.999） in the mass concentration range of 50-500 μg/mL and 25-250 μg/mL,respectively. Moreover, the recovery rates range from 96.2% to 105.1% at different concentration levels. A simple, reproducible and reliable method is provided for the determination of ceramide NP and AP contents in different ceramide liposomes. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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顶空-气相色谱法测定异构醇聚氧乙烯醚中游离醇 Determination of free alcohols in isomeric alcohol polyoxyethylene ethers by headspace gas chromatography 梁盟, 张威, 滕晓光 2023 (12):  1472-1476.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.016 摘要 ( 73 )   HTML ( 0 )   PDF(1472KB) ( 127 )   建立了一种用顶空-气相色谱测定异构醇醚中游离醇含量的分析方法。采用HP-5毛细管柱（30 m×0.32 mm，0.25 µm），氢火焰（FID）检测器检测，N,N二甲基甲酰胺（DMF）为溶剂，通过优化色谱条件，确立了较优分离条件，采用保留时间定性，外标法定量，考察了方法的精密度和准确度。结果表明对于环氧乙烷（EO）加合数较高的产品具有良好的分离效果。异构十醇和异构十三醇分别在质量浓度范围为0.50~14.02 mg/mL和1.02~20.35 mg/mL时，表现出较好的线性关系，R2均大于0.999。异构十醇和异构十三醇检出限分别为0.30和0.54 mg/mL，定量限分别为0.99和1.78 mg/mL。精密度试验的相对标准偏差（RSD）中，异构十醇RSD≤0.75%，异构十三醇RSD≤0.99%。异构十醇和异构十三醇加标回收率在97.4%~104.7%之间，RSD≤2.33%（n=6）。该方法简单、准确、快速，适用于测定异构醇聚氧乙烯醚中游离醇的含量。 The free alcohols in isomeric alcohol polyoxyethylene ethers were analyzed by headspace gas chromatography （headspace GC）. Headspace GC was performed with an HP-5 column （30 m×0.32 mm, 0.25 µm） and an FID detector. DMF was used as solvent. Through optimization of equilibrium temperature, equilibrium time and sample volume, the best GC detection conditions were found. The retention time was used for qualitative analysis and the external standard method was used for quantitative analysis. The test results showed that isodecyl alcohol was a mixture of two different alcohols, and isotridecyl alcohol was a mixture of alcohols with different carbon chain length and different degree of branching. The results showed that the calibration curves of isodecyl alcohol and isotridecyl alcohol were linear in range of 0.50-14.02 mg/mL and 1.02-20.35 mg/mL with linear correlation coefficients of 0.999 3 and 0.999 1, LODs of 0.30 and 0.54 mg/mL, and LOQs of 0.99 and 1.78 mg/mL, respectively. In the precision test, the RSD for isodecyl alcohol was≤0.75% and the RSD for isotridecyl alcohol was≤0.99%. The recovery of isodecyl alcohol and isotridecyl alcohol was from 97.4% to 104.7%, with RSD≤2.33% （n=6）. It could be found that the fluctuation in detection data of isodecyl alcohol ethoxylate was slight, while that of isomeric tridecanol ethoxylate was bigger. To reduce data fluctuation, the sample weight could be increased to make the peaks more obvious when detecting isotridecanol polyoxyethylene ether. This method was simple, accurate, rapid, highly sensitive, and suitable for the determination of free alcohols in isomeric alcohol polyoxyethylene ethers. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标