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    2023年, 第53卷, 第11期 刊出日期:2023-11-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    一种酿酒酵母和副干酪乳杆菌发酵产物滤液复合物对面部微生态的影响
    Effects of a Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Lactobacillus paracasei ferment complex on the facial micro-ecology
    王玥, 李俊, 顾仕红, 王曼, 邹岳, 吴建铭
    2023 (11):  1241-1249.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.001
    摘要 ( 244 )   HTML ( 41 )   PDF(1443KB) ( 209 )  

    本研究旨在考察一种经喜马拉雅食品来源酿酒酵母和副干酪乳杆菌发酵而得的滤液复合物(SLFC)对面部细菌微生态和皮肤屏障的调节作用。筛选有皮肤衰老迹象女性30人(30~45岁,平均年龄38岁),对比使用SLFC前(D0)和使用28天后(D28)两组样本,面部细菌物种Alpha多样性显著降低(p<0.05);Beta多样性分组有意义(p<0.05);在ASV(amplicon sequence variants)水平上考察物种组成,结果显示葡萄球菌属丰度显著增加(p<0.05),丙酸杆菌属、棒状杆菌属、不动杆菌属等皮肤常驻菌的相对丰度保持稳定,链球菌属、红球菌属、水栖菌属、黄杆菌属等机会致病菌的丰度下降。对皮肤特征菌检测,结果显示表皮葡萄球菌的丰度显著提高(p<0.05);痤疮丙酸杆菌丰度变化不显著;金黄色葡萄球菌则无检出。D28组消费者反馈肌肤平滑、光泽和保湿状态得到改善,此外肌肤泛红得到缓解。由此可得,发酵产物复合物SLFC能有效调节并稳定面部菌群微生态平衡,巩固皮肤屏障。

    The objective of this study was to investigate the effects of a Himalaya-derived Saccharomyces and Lactobacillus ferment complex (SLFC) on the facial micro-ecology. Thirty women (30-45 years old, average 38 years old) with signs of skin aging used SLFC. Compared with the two groups of samples before use (D0) and after 28 days of use (D28), the Alpha diversity of facial bacterial species decreased significantly and the Beta diversity had obvious differentiation in different regions. The relative abundance of Staphylococcus increased significantly. The relative abundance of Propionibacterium, Corynebacterium, Acinetobacter, and other skin resident bacteria remained stable. The relative abundance of the opportunistic pathogenic bacteria such as Streptococcus,Erythrococcus, Aquatic bacteria and flavobacterium decreased. At the species level, the abundance of Staphylococcus epidermidis increased significantly, the abundance of Cutibacterium acnes did not change significantly, and Staphylococcus aureus was not detected. According to the feedback of consumers after treatment with SLFC for 28 days, skin smoothness, gloss and moisture were improved and the skin redness was relieved. Therefore, SLFC can effectively regulate and stabilize the microecological balance of facial flora to improve and strengthen the skin barrier.

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    叔胺型响应表面活性剂的合成及性能研究
    Study on the synthesis and performance of a responsive surfactant of tertiary amine type
    张鑫, 张光华, 孙棋, 李慧, 唐明旋, 郭泽华
    2023 (11):  1250-1256.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.002
    摘要 ( 165 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF(1468KB) ( 266 )  

    以油酸和N, N-二甲基-1,3-丙二胺为原料,氟化钠为催化剂,合成了一种具有CO2响应性的长链叔胺(油酸酰胺丙基二甲基叔胺(DMOA)),测定了其通入CO2和N2下的电导率,证实了合成的DMOA溶液具有CO2响应性能。测定了在通入CO2下DMOA与反离子复配的表面张力,发现将DMOA与二元反离子草酸钠复配能显著降低溶液的表面张力。研究了DMOA与草酸钠复配体系的黏度的CO2响应性能,结果表明,复配体系能够显著提高体系的黏度,并具有CO2响应性和循环可逆性。研究了复配体系的起泡性能和在石蜡膜上的接触角,发现在通入了CO2条件下,复配体系能够降低起泡性能和与疏水表面的接触角。

    A CO2-responsive surfactant with good surface activity was obtained, which was a long-chain tertiary amine (DMOA) with CO2 responsiveness. It was synthesized by bimolecular nucleophilic substitution reaction using oleic acid and N, N-dimethyl-1,3-propanediamine as raw materials and sodium fluoride as catalyst. Its conductivity was measured on a conductivity meter under the passage of CO2 and N2, and the experimental results confirmed that the solution of synthesized DMOA had CO2-responsive properties. The surface tension of DMOA compounded with counterions was measured and its critical micelle concentration was determined. It was found that the combination of DMOA with dicarboxylic counterions such as sodium oxalate could significantly reduce the surface tension of the solution, and the critical micelle concentration of the compounded system was also reduced compared with other systems. The CO2-responsive behavior of the viscosity of the DMOA-sodium oxalate system was studied on a rheometer. The results showed that the compounded system could significantly increase the viscosity of the system, exhibiting CO2-responsiveness and cyclic reversibility. The foaming performance of the compounded system was investigated, and the contact angle between its aqueous solution and paraffin wax was investigated. It was found that the compounded system exhibited lower foaming performance but smaller contact angle on lipophilic surface after the introduction of CO2.

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    科技讲座
    新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用(Ⅲ)——Pickering乳液
    New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics (III)Pickering emulsion
    陈宁茹, 张若淇, 韩旭, 尚亚卓
    2023 (11):  1257-1265.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.003
    摘要 ( 234 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF(1573KB) ( 207 )  

    Pickering乳液是最近二十年发展起来的一种新型的乳化体系。体系中油、水界面通常为微米级或纳米级固体颗粒形成的稳固的颗粒膜,这些固体颗粒依靠自身的表面润湿性,近乎不可逆的吸附于油、水界面,进而稳定乳滴。与传统乳化剂相比,固体颗粒廉价易得、对环境绿色友好、易于修饰且赋予乳液更高稳定性等,使得Pickering乳液在石油开采、新材料合成,特别是食品、医药以及化妆品领域的应用中表现出诸多的优势。本文首先介绍了Pickering乳液及常用于稳定Pickering乳液的固体颗粒,并阐述乳液稳定机理,总结影响体系稳定性的因素,详述Pickering乳液在化妆品领域的应用及其应用优势。在此基础上,对特殊Pickering乳液,包括多重Pickering乳液、Pickering-Janus乳液进行了简单介绍。最后针对Pickering乳液未来发展方向,包括Pickering乳化剂、Pickering乳液制备以及Pickering乳液应用等方面需开展的工作提出了个人看法,希望为Pickering乳液的有效开发及合理应用提供参考。

    Pickering emulsion is a new type of emulsion system developed in the past twenty years. The oil and water interface in the system is generally a solid particle film formed by micron-scale or nanoscale solid particles. These solid particles nearly irreversible adsorption to the oil and water interface rely on their own surface wettability and thus stabilize the droplets in the system. The solid particles have much advantages compared with the traditional emulsifiers, including cheaper and easier to obtain, higher emulsifying capacity, green and friendly to the environment, easier to modify as well as the higher stability of the prepared emulsions, which make Pickering emulsion show many advantages in the fields of oil extraction, new material synthesis, food, medicine as well as cosmetics. In this paper, the Pickering emulsion, the stability mechanism of the Pickering emulsion and the factors of affecting the stability of the system are introduced firstly. Then, the solid particles can be used to stabilize Pickering emulsion in cosmetics are listed, and the necessary conditions that the solid particles should have are clarified. On this basis, the application of Pickering emulsion in the field of cosmetics is stated in details, and the corresponding advantages of Pickering emulsion in the application of cosmetics are summarized. Furthermore, the unique Pickering emulsions developed recently, including multiple Pickering emulsion and the Pickering-Janus emulsion are introduced. Finally, the personal views on the future development in the direction of Pickering emulsifier, preparation and the application of Pickering emulsion are put forward, which may provide some useful reference for the effective development and reasonable application of Pickering emulsion.

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    开发与应用
    聚乙丙交酯微球的制备及对曲安奈德的包载与释放研究
    Preparation of poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid)microsphere and its behaviors of encapsulation and release of triamcinolone acetonide
    袁文博, 张华彤, 乔从德, 王领, 栾明明, 杨效登
    2023 (11):  1266-1272.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.004
    摘要 ( 106 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(2470KB) ( 225 )  

    曲安奈德具有药性好、药效强、作用时间持久的优点,但是,油溶性使其应用不方便。聚乙丙交酯(Poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid),PLGA)具有优良的生物相容性和生物降解性,可做成微球负载曲安奈德。本文以三氟甲磺酸为催化剂、葡萄糖为引发剂制备了聚乙丙交酯,并以核磁共振波谱和凝胶色谱法表征了聚乙丙交酯的分子结构、分子量和分子量分布。结果显示,所得聚乙丙交酯中乳酸和乙醇酸链段的质量比为50:50,羧基封端,分子量介于36 000~41 000,分子量分布窄,分散性指数约为1.60。以高压静电喷雾法制得粒径小于20 μm(d20≥92%)的微球,该微球对曲安奈德亲脂性药物的载药量大于44%,能实现长达120 h的释放周期,而且在药物释放前期释放速率和时间呈现线性关系。文章为PLGA载药微球的制备和拓展曲安奈德在过敏性皮炎、神经性皮炎和慢性湿疹等皮肤疾病治疗提供基础数据,为功能性护肤品的开发提供参考。

    Triamcinolone acetonide has the advantages of strong medical efficacy and long duration, however, its oil solubility limits its application. Poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid) (PLGA) has excellent biocompatibility and biodegradability, which can be made into microspheres loaded with triamcinolone acetonide. In this work, the PLGA was prepared using trifluoromethanesulfonic acid as catalyst and glucose as initiator. The molecular structure, molecular weight and molecular weight distribution of PLGA were characterized by NMR and gel chromatography. The results showed that the mass ratio of lactic acid to glycolic acid segments in PLGA was 50:50, and the molecules were terminated with carboxyl groups, and the molecular weight was between 36 000 and 41 000, exhibiting narrow molecular weight distribution (molecular weight distribution index was ca. 1.60). The microspheres were made by electrostatic spraying method, whose particle size was less than 20 μm (the content of microspheres of diameter being smaller than 20 μm was more than 92%). The drug loading efficiency for triamcinolone acetonide was more than 44%, and the period of release was up to 120 h. In the initial stage of drug release, the relationship between drug release rate and time was linear. This work could provide basic data for the preparation of PLGA microspheres for drug-loading and expand the application of triamcinolone acetonide in the treatment of allergic dermatitis, neurodermatitis and chronic eczema. Moreover, this work could provide reference for the development of functional skin care products.

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    乙酰香兰素合成工艺优化及反应进程分析
    Optimization of synthesis process of acetylvanillin and analysis of the reaction process
    王涛, 孙晓, 李卓, 董曼曼, 贾寒冰, 卫星华
    2023 (11):  1273-1279.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.005
    摘要 ( 123 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1572KB) ( 111 )  

    考察了原料投料比、不同溶剂、碱性试剂及反应时间等条件对反应收率的影响,对乙酰香兰素合成工艺优化及反应进程进行了研究。实验以香兰素和乙酸酐为原料,反应合成乙酰香兰素。采用毛细管熔点法、傅里叶变换红外光谱(FT-IR)及气相色谱-质谱/质谱(GC-MS/MS)对乙酰香兰素反应进行分析和表征。实验结果表明,乙酰香兰素的合成工艺优化条件为原料摩尔比n(香兰素):n(乙酸酐):n(三乙胺)=1:1.3:0.5,室温反应0.5 h,收率可达99.0%。初步探讨了碱性试剂三乙胺作为催化剂在反应进程当中所起的催化作用,并对其反应机理进行了推测。该工艺反应条件温和,反应时间短,收率高,原料价廉易得,操作简单易行。乙酰香兰素反应进程的研究为合成工艺优化、分析检测方法及基础理论研究提供了一定的参考依据。

    Acetylvanillin (4-acyloxy-3-methoxy-benzaldehyde) is an important vanillin derivative, which has strong milk fragrance. It is an intermediate produced in the reaction process of synthesizing vanillin from eugenol, isoeugenol and other raw materials. It is often used as flavoring agent in various dairy products (such as modulated milk powder, fresh milk, yogurt, etc.), biscuits, beverages, cosmetics (perfume), tobacco, wine, food packaging, feed, etc. Due to the structural characteristics of various functional groups (-CHO, AcO-, MeO-) on the benzene ring of acetylvanillin, it can undergo a variety of chemical reactions. Therefore, it is also widely used in the preparation of drugs and other fine chemicals as an important organic intermediate. At present, the chemical synthesis of acetylvanillin mainly takes vanillin as raw material, and it is prepared by acylation reagents such as anhydride and acyl chloride at room temperature following strong alkali or catalyst. However, this process has some shortcomings, such as incomplete reaction, long time of esterification, complicated post-treatment, corrosion in equipment, and difficult access to catalyst. In this work, the effects of experimental conditions on the yield were investigated, including the ratios of raw materials, the solvents, alkaline reagents and reaction time, and the optimization of synthesis process and the analysis of reaction process were carried out. Vanillin and acetic anhydride were used as raw materials. The reaction process of acetylvanillin was analyzed and characterized by capillary melting point method, FT-IR and GC-MS/MS. The results showed that, the optimized synthesis conditions of acetylvanillin were as follows. The molar ratio of raw materials n(vanillin) : n(acetic anhydride) : n(triethylamine) was 1:1.3:0.5; the reaction time at room temperature was 0.5 h, and the yield was 99.0%. The catalytic effect of triethylamine as the catalyst in the reaction process was discussed, and its catalytic mechanism was speculated. This process had the advantages of mild reaction conditions, short reaction time, high yield, low cost and easy availability of raw materials, and simple operation. This study could provide reference for the optimization of synthesis process, analysis method and basic theoretical research.

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    5α-还原酶抑制剂体外评价体系的建立及其应用
    The establishment and application of an in vitro evaluation system for 5α-reductase inhibitors
    潘继飞, 王晓娜, 郭海姣, 杨素珍, 陈建英
    2023 (11):  1280-1284.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.006
    摘要 ( 248 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(1294KB) ( 150 )  

    建立了用于筛选5α-还原酶抑制剂的体外评价体系,采用SD大鼠肝脏制备5α-还原酶,以度他雄胺作为阳性对照,使用高效液相色谱法测定反应前后体系中睾酮含量的变化,计算相对抑制率以表观样品对5α-还原酶的抑制作用。方法学研究结果表明,反应液中其他组分对睾酮的测定无干扰,睾酮在0.059~9.860 μg/mL范围内线性关系良好,相关系数r=0.999 7,定量限(S/N≥10)为0.059 μg/mL;精密度试验RSD为0.3%,重复性试验RSD为0.7%。采用本评价体系对多种活性成分进行测定的结果显示,包括透明质酸锌在内的多种水溶性锌盐对5α-还原酶具有较强的抑制作用。该体系可用于筛选抑制5α-还原酶的活性成分,为开发控油、抗痤疮功效的化妆品提供依据。

    5α-reductase (5AR) is a microsomal enzyme that relies on reducing coenzyme Ⅱ (NADPH) as a hydrogen donor to irreversibly convert testosterone to dihydrotestosterone (DHT). There are three isoenzymes in the alpha-reductase family, namely Ⅰ (5AR1), Ⅱ (5AR2) and Ⅲ (5AR3). Two distinct isozymes are found in mouse, rat, monkey, and human: 5AR1 and 5AR2. In human, 5AR1 is predominant in the sebaceous glands of most regions of skin, including scalp, and liver. 5AR1 is responsible for approximately one-third of the circulating DHT. 5AR2 isozyme is primarily found in prostate, seminal vesicles, epididymites, hair follicles as well as liver, and is responsible for two-thirds of the circulating DHT. 5AR1 in sebaceous gland cells plays a certain role in local androgen metabolism, stimulation of excessive sebum secretion and the occurrence of acne. The high level of DHT is easy to cause acne and other skin problems. According to the above reaction principles, an in vitro model was established to screen 5AR inhibitors. The reaction system was divided into four groups: Blank control, Negative control, Positive control and Sample group. 5AR was prepared from the liver of SD rats. The content of testosterone was determined by HPLC method using Dutastamide, which had strong inhibition on both 5AR1 and 5AR2, as the positive control. Specificity test shows that other components have no interference on the determination of testosterone, and the method has good specificity. Correlation coefficient r is 0.999 7, testosterone has a good linear relationship in the range of 0.059-9.860 μg/mL, and the limit of quantitation (S/N≥10) is 0.059 μg/mL. RSDs of the precision test are 0.3%, and the precision is good. RSDs of the repeatability test are 0.7%, indicating that the method has good repeatability. Several samples were screened using this screening model, and several samples such as zinc hyaluronate shows strong inhibition of 5AR. This model can effectively screen 5AR inhibitors, and provide reference for the development of oil-control, anti-acne and other products. Compared with other existing androgen antagonists, 5AR inhibitor selectively blocks DHT synthesis while not affecting the normal level and physiological function of testosterone, and inhibits 5AR as an important method for the treatment of benign prostatic hyperplasia, male alopecia and other androgen-dependent diseases. With the inhibition of 5AR activity as the target, steroid and non-steroid 5AR inhibitors from various sources are becoming a hot spot in drug development.

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    阿魏酸纳米醇质体的制备、表征及体外经皮吸收研究
    Ferulic acid nanoethosomes: preparation, characterization, and performance of skin penetration in vitro
    邓梦洁, 易国斌, 吕冉, 柳亚锋, 叶大威, 陈佳志
    2023 (11):  1285-1292.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.007
    摘要 ( 129 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF(2426KB) ( 190 )  

    研究了微射流技术制备的阿魏酸纳米醇质体经皮递送和抗氧化性能。首先,采用响应面法研究了卵磷脂、边缘活化剂(蔗糖棕榈酸酯、吐温-80)对阿魏酸纳米醇质体包封率的影响,优化得到:卵磷脂、蔗糖棕榈酸酯与吐温-80为0.68%:0.51%:0.25%(w/%)时,所制备的阿魏酸纳米醇质体粒径小且分布均匀((104.5±0.7) nm),PDI为0.05±0.01,包封率高(88.8%±2.6%),稳定性高(25 ℃稳定存放60天)。其次,采用DPPH自由基清除实验和Franz扩散池体外透皮实验分别评价了阿魏酸纳米醇质体的抗氧化性能和经皮递送性能,阿魏酸纳米醇质体的IC50值为8.7 μg/mL,抗氧化活性略高于阿魏酸丙二醇水溶液(IC50值为11.7 μg/mL);阿魏酸纳米醇质体皮肤滞留量和累积透过量分别为(18.2±3.5) μg/cm2和(25.3±3.2) μg/cm2,分别是阿魏酸丙二醇水溶液的1.2倍和1.4倍。研究发现,制备的阿魏酸纳米醇质体粒径均一、包封率高、稳定性好且抗氧化性高、经皮吸收性能好,有望用于酚酸类天然活性物经皮递送系统,及其抗氧化、抗衰老、美白等功效化妆品。

    The transdermal delivery and antioxidant of ferulic acid nanoethosomes prepared by microfluidization were studied. Firstly, the effects of edge-activators (Tween-80, and sucrose palmitate) and lecithin on the encapsulation efficiency of ferulic acid nanoethosomes were investigated by the response surface method. When lecithin, sucrose palmitate and Tween-80 are optimized at the ratio of 0.68%:0.51%:0.25% (w/%), the ferulic acid nanoethosomes demonstrate better characteristics of small particle size of (104.5±0.7) nm, uniform particle size distribution with PDI of 0.05±0.01, high encapsulation efficiency of 88.8%±2.6%, and high storage stability for 60 days at 25 ℃. Secondly, the antioxidant ability and the skin penetration property of ferulic acid and its nanoethosomes were evaluated by DPPH free radical scavenging tests and in vitro transdermal assays using Franz diffusion cells, respectively. The IC50 values of ferulic acid and its nanoethosomes are 8.7 and 11.7 μg/mL, respectively, indicating that the ferulic acid nanoethosomes exhibite enhanced antioxidant activity. It is found that the nanoethosomes have better skin permeability and their skin adsorption amount and accumulated permeation amount of the nanoethosomes are (18.2±3.5) μg/cm2 and (25.3±3.2) μg/cm2, which are 1.2 times and 1.4 times higher than that of the ferulic acid propylene glycol solution, respectively. The prepared ferulic acid nanoethosomes have the advantages of uniform particle size, high encapsulation efficiency and storage stability, enhanced antioxidant ability and skin permeability, and can be extended to the preparation of other phenolic acid nanoethosomes and applied as transdermal carriers for antioxidant, anti-aging, and whitening cosmetics.

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    乙酰基四肽-11防脱发作用的研究
    Study on the effect of acetyl tetrapeptide-11 in preventing hair loss
    石莲莲, 马文君, 孙亚萍, 王培培, 郑春阳
    2023 (11):  1293-1298.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.008
    摘要 ( 142 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(2791KB) ( 121 )  

    将乙酰基四肽-11应用于小鼠进行脱发研究。通过对C57BL/6雌性小鼠背部进行脱毛处理,实验组连续涂抹3个质量浓度梯度(10,20和30 μg/mL)的乙酰基四肽-11水溶液18天,对照组涂抹生理盐水,观察小鼠背部毛发生长情况,HE染色进行组织学分析,并初步进行了志愿者试用评估。结果表明,一定质量浓度的乙酰基四肽-11可以预防小鼠脱发,避免毛囊微型化,同时可以维持小鼠表皮紧致。志愿者试用评估表明测试样品对所有志愿者都有防脱发效果,85%志愿者反馈头发密度变大。

    In recent years, the research on hair loss has become more and more intensive. In this work, acetyl tetrapeptide-11 was applied in mice to study its effect on hair loss. After depilation treatment on the back of eight C57BL/6 female mice, the experimental group was continually smeared with aqueous solutions of acetyl tetrapeptide-11 with different mass concentrations (10, 20 and 30 μg/mL) for 18 days, while the control group was smeared with normal saline. The hair growth on the back of mice was observed, and HE staining was used for histological analysis. The efficacy on human volunteers was also preliminarily evaluated. The results on mice showed that a certain mass concentration of acetyl tetrapeptide-11 could prevent hair loss and avoid the miniaturization of hair follicles and maintain epidermis firmness. The results on human volunteers showed that, the test samples had prevention effect on hair loss for all volunteers, and 85% of the volunteers gave feedback to denser hair. This study could provide a new solution and theoretical basis for hair loss prevention.

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    不同制膏法对牙膏流变性的影响研究
    Study on the rheological properties of toothpastes from different production processes
    高艳, 陈杰文, 肖蕾
    2023 (11):  1299-1304.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.009
    摘要 ( 116 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(1305KB) ( 98 )  

    研究了一步和两步制膏法制备的牙膏的流变性能。发现两种制膏法得到的牙膏的流变性相近,均属假塑性流体,具有剪切稀化特性及触变性。两步制膏法牙膏的黏度更高、屈服力大、结构偏刚性;一步制膏法牙膏更具有弹性,经高速剪切后结构恢复快。温度对一步制膏法牙膏影响大,经高温处理后其黏度会增大。经分析,两步制膏法有独立的增稠剂水合溶胀工序,一步制膏法中增稠剂水合溶胀与粉料吸附液料、发泡剂溶解乳化等工序同时进行。在两步制膏法中,增稠剂水合溶胀工序的温度和液相比例更高,其分子链舒展更开,亲水基团结合的水更多,分子链缠绕更剧烈,牙膏内聚力更大,结构刚性大。

    The rheological properties of the one-step producing toothpaste and the two-step producing toothpaste were researched by Anton Paar MCR 302 Rheometer in this paper. Results show that the two toothpastes are the pseudoplastic fluids with shear thinning behavior and the thixotropy. The two-step producing toothpaste has higher viscosity, greater yield strength and rigid structure. The one-step producing toothpaste is more elastic, and its structure recovers quickly after high-speed shearing. The temperature has more influence on the one-step producing toothpaste, and its viscosity can increase after high temperature treatment. The two-step paste production process includes the thickeners hydration and swelling procedure. In the one-step paste production process, the thickeners hydration and swelling procedure is carried out simultaneously with the abrasive adsorbing liquid material procedure, the foaming agent dissolution and emulsification procedures. Comparing with the one-step paste production process, the temperature and liquid concentration are higher during the thickener’s hydration and swelling procedure in the two-step paste production process. So, by the two-step paste production process, the molecular chain of the thickeners combines more water, unfolds more and twines more. The toothpaste has a greater cohesive force and the structure is more rigid.

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    专论与综述
    刺激响应型聚合物乳化剂的研究进展
    Research progress of stimuli-responsive polymer emulsifiers
    张倩洁, 单子悦, 张冬梅, 蒋汶, 张婉萍
    2023 (11):  1305-1314.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.010
    摘要 ( 141 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF(2068KB) ( 106 )  

    聚合物乳化剂具有表面活性高、灵活易改性、生物相容性好的优点。在药物递送、石油运输、多相催化等领域,长期稳定的乳液不符合实际应用的需求,乳液需要在特定环境下实现可控地按需破乳。具有刺激响应性的聚合物乳化剂,可替代破乳剂应用于乳液体系中实现特殊环境下乳液稳定-快速破乳过程的转变,反应可控且具有可持续性。本文综述了近年来国内外对于具有刺激响应性质的聚合物乳化剂的研究进展,总结了pH、温度、CO2、光、氧化还原、多重刺激响应等各类刺激响应型聚合物乳化剂的作用机理、响应行为方式及应用时的优缺点。文章还对刺激响应型聚合物乳化剂在医药、化妆品、食品、石油回收、生物催化等领域的应用发展现状进行总结,并对其未来发展前景进行展望。

    The advantages of polymer emulsifiers, such as good biocompatibility and flexible modification, have been recognized by researchers. Compared with small molecule surfactants, polymer emulsifiers can not only increase the viscosity of emulsion but also effectively reduce the surface tension of oil and water. Traditional polymer emulsifiers can form long-term stable emulsions, and have been widely used in food, cosmetics, pesticides, materials, petrochemical and other fields. However, in the fields of drug delivery, oil transportation and heterogeneous catalysis, long-term stable emulsions do not meet the needs of practical applications. Emulsions need to be controlled and on-demand demulsification under specific environments to achieve material release or oil-water separation to meet the requirements of applications. The stimulus-responsive polymer emulsifier can replace demulsifier in emulsion system to realize the transition from emulsion stability to rapid demulsification process under special circumstances. The reaction is controllable and sustainable, which can realize multiple response cycles, improve application efficiency and reduce the waste of resources. This paper reviews the research progress of stimulus-responsive polymer emulsifiers at home and abroad in recent years, and summarizes the action mechanism, response behavior and advantages and disadvantages of various stimulus-responsive polymer emulsifiers, such as pH, temperature, CO2, light, redox, and multiple stimulus response. The application and development status of stimulus-responsive polymer emulsifiers in medicine, cosmetics, food, oil recovery, biocatalysis and other fields are summarized, and their future development prospects are also prospected.

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    金属矿物离子的皮肤生物学效应及其在化妆品领域的应用
    Metal ions: the biological effects on skin and the application in cosmetics
    马晓瑜, 严晓娟, 鲍熹珺
    2023 (11):  1315-1324.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.011
    摘要 ( 427 )   HTML ( 26 )   PDF(1337KB) ( 264 )  

    皮肤组织中富含金属矿物离子。由于组织的复杂性,金属矿物离子分别以游离态和结合态两种方式存在于皮肤中,并参与到屏障稳态维持、伤口愈合、氧化还原平衡等多种生物过程中。鉴于其多靶点、多通路的独特作用效果,金属矿物离子被广泛应用于皮肤护理中,可以带来皮肤修护、舒缓、抗皱、紧致、美白等诸多作用效果。文章综述了钙、镁、钾、锌、铜、锶等金属矿物离子对皮肤的生物学作用及其在化妆品中的应用。分别介绍了皮肤中的常见金属矿物离子及其浓度与分布、常见离子的皮肤学作用效果及其作用机理、化妆品原料中所涉及到的金属矿物离子成分、以及目前金属矿物离子成分在护肤产品应用中的局限与挑战,为未来的配方功效设计和功能活性物质的复配提供思路。

    Skin tissues are rich in metal ions. Due to the complexity of skin structure, these ions exist in both free and bound forms. Metal ions have been involved in many biological processes, such as maintaining barrier homeostasis, stimulating wound healing, and balancing redox state. Given their unique characteristics of multi-targets and multi-pathways, metal ions are widely used in skincare applications, exhibiting the functions of promoting skin repairing, soothing, wrinkle reduction, tightening, whitening, etc. Herein, the biological effects and cosmetic applications of metal ions, including calcium, magnesium, potassium, zinc, strontium and copper, were systematically reviewed. The concentration and distribution of common metal ions in skin were summarized. The dermatologic effects and mechanisms were also concluded. Calcium, magnesium and potassium ions were relatively abundant in skin, and they could play important roles in stimulating wound healing, maintaining integrity of skin barrier, and strengthening the barrier. For those ions with trace amount, such as zinc, strontium, copper, iron and manganese, they could exert specific skin functions including inflammation inhibition, reduction of skin sensitivity, or modulation of redox system. In addition, the metal ion-related active ingredients in cosmetic raw materials were summarized and their skin functions were reviewed. Finally, the current limits and challenges for the use of metal ions in skin care products were proposed. This review could shed new light on the design of functional formulas and novel active components.

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    经济内循环背景下国货化妆品包装策略研究
    Research on packaging strategy of domestic cosmetics under economic inner circulation
    葛文彬, 李傲
    2023 (11):  1325-1333.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.012
    摘要 ( 109 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(4604KB) ( 139 )  

    “颜值经济”时代产品的包装决定了消费者购买冲动的先决印象,直接影响产品的市场定位,左右其商业价值。在经济内循环背景下国货化妆品如何突破壁垒,在激烈的化妆品竞争中脱颖而出呢?近年来掀起的“国潮”风为化妆品提供了契机点,将我国文化艺术精髓融合到化妆品的包装设计中,重塑艺术与时尚的完美融合,尽显化妆品的视觉美感与气质内涵,在短时间的消费决策过程中更有效地捕获消费者心理,让国货化妆品品牌更具内涵和文化感,提升市场竞争力,将成为当下社会背景下国货化妆品突破重围的一把利剑。通过分析当下社会经济形式、化妆品产业状况、国潮文化饰样融入化妆品的价值优势及缺陷状况,研究国潮文化饰样融入化妆品包装设计的路径策略,以期对国货化妆品行业崛起提供参考。

    In the economic era of “paying for beauty”, the packaging of products decides the prerequisite impression of consumers’ impulsive purchase. Moreover, it directly affects the marketing positioning of the product and the commercial value, which is even more important than the product itself. In such context, how do domestic cosmetics break through barriers and stand out in the fierce competition against the background of the internal economic cycle? The trend of “China-Chic” that emerged in the past few years provides a good opportunity for cosmetics. The essence of the culture and art of China is integrated into the packaging design of cosmetics to reshape the perfect infusion of art and fashion and fully show the visual beauty and temperament connotation of cosmetics. Thus, the psychology of consumers could be seized more effectively during the consumption decision within a short time, and the brand of domestic cosmetics would have connotation and sense of culture to enhance the competitiveness in the market. These would be a good strength for domestic cosmetics to break through barriers under the current social background. By analyzing the economic form of the present society, the industry of cosmetics, and the value strength and defects, the paper would study the approach and solution for cultural decoration with China Chic to be integrated with the packaging design of cosmetics, hoping to provide referable suggestions for the rise of domestic cosmetics industry.

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    分析与检测
    气相色谱-三重四极杆质谱法测定染发剂中14种N-亚硝胺类化合物
    Determination of 14 N-nitrosamines in hair dyes using gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry
    张静, 赖俊敏, 李思源, 严小红, 丁怡, 张起辉
    2023 (11):  1334-1339.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.013
    摘要 ( 105 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1198KB) ( 99 )  

    建立了气相色谱-三重四极杆质谱法测定染发剂中N-亚硝基乙基异丙胺等14种N-亚硝胺类化合物含量的方法。样品采用QuEChERS法前处理,经聚乙二醇石英毛细管柱HP-INNOWAX(30 m×0.25 mm×0.25 μm)程序升温分离,在多反应监测(MRM)模式下分析,含量计算为外标法。结果表明,14种亚硝胺在5~100 μg/L范围内线性关系良好(r>0.998),检出限和定量下限分别为0.2~1.5 μg/L和0.6~5 μg/L。在25,50,100 μg/kg加标水平下,染发剂基质的平均回收率为83.8%~122.8%,相对标准偏差(RSD)小于11%(n=6)。采用该方法测定市售染发产品,结果发现1批样品中含有N-甲基-N-亚硝基苯胺,含量为31 μg/kg。该方法前处理简单高效,专属性强,灵敏度高,准确性好,可用于染发剂中14种亚硝胺的筛查和含量测定。

    A gas chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (GC-MS/MS) method was established for the simultaneous detection of 14 N-nitrosamines (N-nitrosodimethylamine, N-nitrosoethylmethylamine, N-nitrosodiethylamine, N-nitrosoethylisopropylamine, N-nitrosodiisopropylamine, N-nitrosoethylpropylamine, N-nitrosodipropylamine, N-nitrosodibutylamine, N-nitrosomethylaniline, nitrosoethylphenylamin, N-nitrosopiperidine, N-nitrosopyrrolidine, N-nitrosomorpholine, N-nitrosodiphenylamine) in hair dyes. Pretreating based on QuEChERS method, the analytes were separated by polyethylene glycol quartz capillary gas chromatographic column HP-INNOWAX (30 m×0.25 mm×0.25 µm) following the GC temperature program. Mass spectrometric ionization was undertaken in electron impact (EI) ionization mode, and the MS detector was operated in multiple reaction monitoring (MRM) mode including quantitative ion pair and qualitative ion pair for all analytes. The correlation coefficients of the standard calibration curves are greater than 0.998 in the range of 5-100 μg/L. The limits of detection are 0.2-1.5 µg/L, and the limits of quantification are 0.6-5 µg/L, respectively. The average recoveries of 14 N-nitrosamines range from 83.8% to 122.8% at the spiked levels of 25, 50 and 100 µg/kg, with the relative standard deviations (RSDs) less than 11% (n=6). N-nitroso-n-methylaniline is detected at the level of 31 µg/kg in one hair dye sample. The developed method is simple, rapid, exclusive, sensitive, accurate and precise. This method can be applied in the identification and quantitative of 14 N-nitrosamines in hair dyes.

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    同位素稀释-气相色谱-质谱法测定化妆品中大麻二酚和四氢大麻酚
    Determination of cannabidiol and tetrahydrocannabinol in cosmetics by isotope dilution-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry
    李长于, 胡丹, 廖上富, 鹿燕, 杨铭
    2023 (11):  1340-1344.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.014
    摘要 ( 94 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1254KB) ( 81 )  

    建立了同位素稀释-气相色谱-质谱法测定化妆品中大麻二酚(Cannabidiol,CBD)和四氢大麻酚(Tetrahydrocannabinol,THC)的检测方法。利用乙腈溶剂对水剂、乳液和膏霜类三类样品进行超声提取,经离心后得到样品溶液,以HP-5MS色谱柱(30 m×250 μm×0.25 μm)进行分离,采用全扫描和选择离子监测模式检测,同位素(四氢大麻酚-D3,Tetrahydrocannabinol-D3,THC-D3)内标法定量。结果表明,CBD和THC在0.05~1.0 mg/L质量浓度范围内均与对应的峰面积比呈良好线性关系(R2>0.995),检出限(S/N=3)分别为0.05,0.20 mg/kg,三个添加级别的加标回收率为92.0%~111.1%,相对标准偏差为0.40%~9.9%。该方法操作简单,快速,且灵敏度高,适用于化妆品中大麻二酚和四氢大麻酚的测定。

    A method for the determination of cannabidiol (CBD) and tetrahydrocannabinol (THC) in cosmetics was established by using isotope dilution-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The samples were ultrasonically extracted with acetonitrile, then the sample solution was prepared after centrifugation, and the analytes were separated on HP-5MS column (30 m×250 μm×0.25 μm), detected by full-scan and selected-ion monitoring, quantified by isotope (Tetrahydrocannabinol-D3,THC-D3) internal standard method. The results show that the standard curves have good linear relationship in the range of 0.05-1.0 mg/L for CBD and THC, with the linear correlation coefficients greater than 0.995. The detection limits of the method (S/N=3) are 0.05, 0.20 mg/kg, respectively, and the spiked recoveries in three levels are between 92.0%-111.1% with the RSDs of 0.40%-9.9%. The method is simple, rapid, high sensitivity and suitable for the determination of cannabidiol and tetrahydrocannabinol in cosmetics.

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    归芩牙膏中阿魏酸、黄芩苷含量测定及其药效学研究
    Determination of ferulic acid and baicalin content in Gui Qin toothpaste and its pharmacodynamic study
    郑丽霞, 高慧琴, 李飒, 郭从嘉, 郝倩莹, 吴国泰
    2023 (11):  1345-1350.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.015
    摘要 ( 93 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(1174KB) ( 80 )  

    建立高效液相色谱(HPLC)测定归芩牙膏中阿魏酸、黄芩苷含量的方法,研究其抗炎、镇痛、止血等药理作用。通过HPLC对归芩牙膏中君药当归、黄芩的主要成分阿魏酸、黄芩苷进行含量测定,色谱柱为Agilent ZOBAX SB C18(2.1 mm×150 mm,5 μm),流动相为乙腈-0.2%乙酸水溶液(梯度洗脱),流速为1.0 mL/min,检测波长为320 nm,柱温为35 ℃。通过建立二甲苯致小鼠耳肿胀模型、小鼠热板法和小鼠肝脏创面出血模型考察归芩牙膏抗炎、镇痛及止血作用。并通过ELISA法检测小鼠耳廓组织中肿瘤坏死因子-α (TNF-α)、白介素-1β (IL-1β)、白介素-6 (IL-6)等炎症因子的表达情况。阿魏酸、黄芩苷进样量分别在3.04~304 μg/mL,2.86~286 μg/mL范围内进样质量浓度与峰面积均呈现良好的线性关系(R2>0.999 7);精密度、稳定性、重复性试验RSD均小于3.0%;平均加样回收率分别为98.95%,99.87%,RSD分别为1.51%,0.22%。样品中每1 g含阿魏酸应不低于0.54 mg,含黄芩苷应不低于16.8 mg。HPLC法专属性强,重复性和稳定性良好,可用于归芩牙膏的质量控制。药效学实验表明归芩牙膏具有良好的抗炎、镇痛和止血作用。本研究为后期归芩牙膏的开发及临床应用提供了实验依据。

    A method for determining the content of ferulic acid and baicalein in the toothpaste by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was established, and its pharmacological effects such as anti-inflammatory, analgesic and hemostatic effects were studied. Angelica and Baical skullcap root are the main medicines of Gui Qin toothpaste. The content of ferulic acid and baicalein, the main components of Gui Qin toothpaste, was determined by HPLC. The column was Agilent ZOBAX SB C18 (2.1 mm×150 mm, 5 μm), the mobile phase was acetonitrile-0.2% acetic acid aqueous solution (gradient elutation), the flow rate was 1.0 mL/min, the detection wavelength was 320 nm, and the column temperature was 35 ℃. The anti-inflammatory, analgesic and hemostatic effects of Gui Qin toothpaste were investigated by establishing a model of xylene-induced ear swelling, mouse hot plate method and mouse liver wound bleeding model. The expression of inflammatory factors such as tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), interleukin-1β (IL-1β) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) in the mouse ear tissues was detected by ELISA. The injection rates of ferulic acid and baicalin show a good linear relationship between the injection concentration and the peak area in the range of 3.04-304 μg/mL and 2.86-286 μg/mL, respectively (R2>0.999 7). The RSDs of the precision, stability and repeatability tests are less than 3.0%. The average dosing recovery rates are 98.95% and 99.87%, and the RSDs are 1.51% and 0.22%, respectively. The sample should contain no less than 0.54 mg of ferulic acid per 1 g and no less than 16.8 mg of baicalin. The HPLC method has strong specificity, good repeatability and stability, and can be used for quality control of Gui Qin toothpaste. Pharmacodynamic experiments have shown that Gui Qin toothpaste has good anti-inflammatory, analgesic and hemostatic effects. This study provides an experimental basis for the development and clinical application of Gui Qin toothpaste in the later stage.

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    UPLC-qTOF-MS/MS法测定透骨草中有效成分
    Determination of the active ingredients in Phryma leptostachya L. by UPLC-qTOF-MS/MS
    陈萍萍, 许全升, 姜锐, 冯松浩
    2023 (11):  1351-1360.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.11.016
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    建立了超高效液相色谱(UPLC)与电喷雾四极杆飞行时间质谱(ESI-qTOF-MS)相结合的方法用于快速分离和鉴定透骨草中的成分。样品在ACQUITY UPLC HSS T3 C18色谱柱(2.1 mm×100 mm, 1.8 μm)上以0.1%甲酸(溶剂A)和乙腈(溶剂B)为流动相进行梯度洗脱,流速为0.25 mL/min。通过UPLC-qTOF-MS/MS对透骨草进行色谱分析,确定了47个化合物的特征,其中15个化合物通过与参考标准的比较得到了明确的鉴定。为了进行定量分析,使用UPLC-DAD在210,260和326 nm的波长下同时检测了来自12个批次透骨草样品的15种主要化合物。该方法在精密度、重复性、稳定性、准确度等方面进行了验证。本研究为透骨草的整体质量控制提供了潜在的方法。

    An ultra-high performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) coupled with electrospray quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (ESI-qTOF-MS) method was developed for the rapid separation and identification of the components in Phryma leptostachya L.. The samples were eluted on an ACQUITY UPLC HSS T3 C18 column (2.1 mm×100 mm, 1.8 μm) with a gradient of 0.1% formic acid (solvent A) and acetonitrile (solvent B) as the mobile phases at a flow rate of 0.25 mL/min. The chromatographic analysis of Phryma leptostachya L. by UPLC-qTOF-MS/MS identifies the characterization of 47 compounds, 15 of which are clearly identified by comparison with reference standards. For quantitative analysis, 15 major compounds are simultaneously detected in 12 batches of Phryma leptostachya L. samples using UPLC-DAD at 210 nm, 260 nm and 326 nm. The method is validated in terms of precision, reproducibility, stability and accuracy. In conclusion, this study provides a potential method for the overall quality control of Phryma leptostachya L..

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