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    2023年, 第53卷, 第10期 刊出日期:2023-10-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    水溶性聚合物对液晶乳液性能的影响
    Effect of water-soluble polymer on the properties of liquid crystal emulsions
    孔祥灵, 蓝云萍, 刘晓纯, 王诗琼, 郑益锋, 陈来成, 何秋星
    2023 (10):  1115-1124.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.001
    摘要 ( 181 )   HTML ( 40 )   PDF(3183KB) ( 203 )  

    探究了海藻酸钠、黄原胶、卡波姆940、聚丙烯酸钠等四种水溶性聚合物对液晶乳液性能的影响,通过稳定性、热失重、流变学等实验进行考察。结果表明:添加卡波姆940对液晶结构与粒径无明显影响,离心稳定性表现较佳;黄原胶和卡波姆940对液晶乳液的室温储存有一定帮助且结合水含量占比最大,液晶含量多;流变学结果表明,添加卡波姆940会增加乳液的表观黏度、触变环面积与黏弹性,使液晶胶网抵抗外力应变的能力变强且不易发生形变。

    The effect of four water-soluble polymers including sodium alginate, xanthan gum, carbopol 940, and sodium polyacrylate in the liquid crystal emulsions have been described in this work, through the experiments including stability tests, thermal gravimetric analysis, and rheology. The results show that the addition of carbopol 940 has no effect on the liquid crystal structure and particle size, but performs the best in centrifugation stability. In addition, xanthan gum helps the emulsion to preserve at room temperature, with the largest proportion of bound water and liquid crystal content. The rheological tests show that the four liquid crystal emulsions are non-Newtonian liquids. Incorporation of carbopol 940 increases the viscosity, thixotropy loop area and viscoelasticity of the emulsion, as well as increases the ability of the liquid crystal structure to withstand external forces and not easy to deformate. In conclusion, this paper provides experimental basis for the application of water-soluble polymers in the formulation of liquid crystal emulsions.

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    耐高温羧甲基胍胶压裂液性能及应用
    Performance and application of high-temperature resistant carboxymethyl guar gum fracturing fluid
    钟举, Bauyrzhan Sarsenbekuly, 殷夏, 康万利
    2023 (10):  1125-1131.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.002
    摘要 ( 121 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1557KB) ( 199 )  

    冀东油田西部探区山2主要为致密气藏,储层致密且温度高,孔渗较差,只有通过压裂改造才能见产。常规胍胶压裂液的耐高温性能差且容易对地层产生二次伤害。为解决此问题,基于螯合作用机理研制出了一种耐高温羧甲基胍胶压裂液,并对其快速增黏性、黏弹性、耐高温耐剪切性能以及对地层伤害性等进行详细研究。结果表明,耐高温羧甲基胍胶压裂液在4 min内黏度可达51 mPa·s,耐温能力可达130~180 ℃,破胶液的黏度小于1.5 mPa·s,能够满足目的层施工要求。最后,针对现场部分低产低效井,采用研制的羧甲基胍胶清洁压裂技术,实现了清洁压裂低伤害,堵老缝开新缝,增加改造体积,低产井产量增加了3~5倍,为西部探区持续稳产奠定了技术支撑。

    The “Shan-2” in the western exploration area of Jidong Oilfield is mainly a tight gas reservoir with high temperature and poor porosity and permeability, in which the gas can only be produced by fracturing. Conventional guar gum fracturing fluid has poor high-temperature resistance and it is easy to cause secondary damage to the formation. To solve this problem, based on chelation mechanism, a kind of high-temperature resistant carboxymethyl guar gum fracturing fluid was developed. Its rapid thickening, viscoelasticity, high-temperature resistance, shear resistance and formation damage performance were studied in detail. The results showed that, the viscosity of this fracturing fluid could reach 51 mPa·s within 4 minutes. Its temperature resistance could reach 130-180 ℃. The viscosity of the gel breaking fluid was less than 1.5 mPa·s. Therefore, this fracturing fluid could meet the requirements for the target stratum. Finally, for some low-producing and low-efficiency wells in the field, the clean fracturing technology using the carboxymethyl guar gum developed had achieved clean fracturing with low damage. Old cracks were closed and new cracks were opened. The stimulated reservoir volume was increased. The output of low-producing wells had been increased by 3-5 times. This work might provide technical support for continuous and stable production in the western exploration area.

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    科技讲座
    新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用(Ⅱ)—双凝胶体系
    New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics (II)Bigel system
    牛文霞, 唐嘉悦, 尚亚卓
    2023 (10):  1132-1139.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.003
    摘要 ( 252 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF(1597KB) ( 221 )  

    双凝胶体系是一种在不添加(或少量添加)表面活性剂的情况下,将一种液体以凝胶的形式(如油凝胶或水凝胶)分散在另一种与其不相容的凝胶(如水凝胶或油凝胶)中的特殊乳化体系。该体系兼具水凝胶和油凝胶的双重优势,不仅能同时递送亲水性和亲油性物质,而且展现出比单一凝胶更优异的性能。加之体系中不含(或含少量)表面活性剂,不会引起对敏感肌肤的刺激和脱水问题,使其在化妆品领域具有广阔的应用前景。本文首先介绍了凝胶及双凝胶体系;总结了影响双凝胶体系性质的因素,包括凝胶剂、油/水凝胶比例、油脂性质以及制备工艺等;归纳了双凝胶产品的皮肤安全性、稳定性、锁水保湿性、缓释性及肤感等。在此基础上,阐述了双凝胶体系在化妆品领域应用的研究进展。最后指出了目前双凝胶体系在化妆品领域应用中所面临的问题,并对后续亟待解决的问题提出了个人看法,旨在为性能优异的双凝胶产品的开发及应用提供基础信息,为双凝胶体系的发展方向提供参考。

    Bigel system is a unique emulsion system, in which a liquid in gel form (organogel or hydrogel) is dispersed in another incompatible gel (hydrogel or organogel) without adding (or a small amount of) surfactant. Bigel system has the dual advantages of both hydrogel and organogel, which can not only deliver hydrophilic and lipophilic active agents simultaneously, but also show better performance than either of the single gel. In addition, the bigel system does not contain (or a small amount of) surfactant, which will not cause the stimulation and dehydration of sensitive skin. The bigel system has a broad application prospect in the field of cosmetics, biomedicine, etc. In this paper, the gel and bigel systems are firstly introduced and then the factors of affecting the properties of bigel system including gel agent, the ratio of organogel to hydrogel, oil properties and preparation process, etc. are summarized. Furthermore, the skin safety, stability, moisture retention, sustained-release property and skin sense of bigel system are expatiated. On this basis, the study on the application of bigel system in cosmetics is expounded. Finally, the limitations of the application of bigel system in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed, which can provide not only basic information for the development and application of bigel products with excellent performance but also reference for the development direction of bigel system.

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    开发与应用
    页岩油组分对油水界面性质的影响
    Effects of shale oil composition on the properties of oil-water interface
    史园园, 何凯, 吴文中
    2023 (10):  1140-1146.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.004
    摘要 ( 90 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(1325KB) ( 82 )  

    探讨了页岩油组分对油水界面性质的影响,油水界面性质对非常规储层中碳氢化合物的回收和运移起着至关重要的作用。研究考察了页岩油的组分含量变化对油水界面性质的影响,包括饱和分、芳香分、胶质、沥青质和蜡的变化。系统评价了不同组分质量分数下油水界面张力和界面模量,建立了页岩油组成与界面性质之间的相关性。结果表明,沥青质和胶质的存在显著影响油水界面性质,导致界面张力降低,质量分数为1%的沥青质和胶质组分分别可将平衡界面张力降低至22.48 mN/m和19.42 mN/m;沥青质对界面膜的稳定起到主要作用,不同胶质/沥青质(R/A)含量下对界面张力和界面模量大小改善程度不相同;蜡组分没有降低界面张力的能力,但与胶质-沥青质存在协同作用,可提高界面膜的稳定性,降低高胶质/沥青质(R/A)比例下的竞争吸附,当R/A为10时,胶质/沥青质-蜡的平衡界面张力为17.06 mN/m、黏性模量为6.42 mN/m、弹性模量为36.98 mN/m、扩张模量为37.61 mN/m。这些发现为页岩油组成与油水界面性质之间的复杂关系提供了有价值的见解,有助于开发更有效的提高采收率(EOR)技术和更好地理解非常规储层中的多相流动行为。

    The influence of shale oil components on the properties of oil-water interface was discussed. The properties of oil-water interface play an important role in the recovery and migration of hydrocarbons in unconventional reservoirs. The effects of shale oil composition on the properties of oil-water interface were investigated, including the changes of saturates, aromatics, resins, asphaltenes and waxes. The oil-water interfacial tension and interfacial modulus under different mass fractions of components were systematically evaluated, and the correlation between shale oil composition and interfacial properties was established. The results showed that the presence of asphaltene and resin significantly affected the oil-water interfacial properties, resulting in a decrease in interfacial tension. The asphaltene and resin components with mass fraction of 1%, respectively, could reduce the equilibrium interfacial tension to 22.48 mN/m and 19.42 mN/m, respectively. Asphaltene played a major role in the stabilization of the interfacial film, and the improvement of interfacial tension and interfacial modulus was different at different resin/asphaltene (R/A) content. The wax component had no ability to reduce the interfacial tension, but it had synergistic effect with the resin-asphaltene to improve the stability of interfacial film and reduced the competitive adsorption at high resin/asphaltene (R/A) ratio. When R/A was 10, the equilibrium interfacial tension of the resin/asphaltene-wax was 17.06 mN/m, the viscous modulus was 6.42 mN/m, the elastic modulus was 36.98 mN/m, and the expansion modulus was 37.61 mN/m. These findings could provide valuable insights into the complex relationship between shale oil composition and oil-water interface properties, which could help to develop more effective technologies of enhanced oil recovery (EOR) and better understand multiphase flow behavior in unconventional reservoirs.

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    基于油凝胶的天然赋色唇膏的制备及性能研究
    Preparation and properties of natural colored lipstick based on oleogels
    王润, 龚芋欣, 张若宁, 毛立科
    2023 (10):  1147-1155.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.005
    摘要 ( 120 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(1825KB) ( 226 )  

    研究乳化剂质量分数影响蜂蜡油凝胶唇膏理化性质的规律。选择玉米油为溶剂,蜂蜡为凝胶剂,不同质量分数单硬脂酸甘油酯(GMS)作乳化剂,β-胡萝卜素为代表性功能因子,制备负载天然色素的油凝胶,并探究油凝胶的晶体形态、流变学、质构、热力学特性与色素的包埋率及稳定性的关系,分析其作为唇膏的应用性能。研究发现随着GMS质量分数增加,油凝胶的储能模量(G′)与损耗模量(G″)更高,且具有更高的屈服应力。油凝胶以β晶型为主,含4% GMS的油凝胶晶面间距、晶粒尺寸最大,结晶度最大。添加4% GMS的油凝胶触变恢复率为17.36%,对β-胡萝卜素具有最高的包埋率(65.51%),及最高稳定性(12 h光照后的保留率为82.20%),GMS质量分数为4%的唇膏综合性能较好。本研究结果具有广泛适用性,对天然唇膏产品的开发具有指导意义。

    The effects of mass fraction of emulsifier on the physicochemical properties of beeswax oleogel lipstick were investigated. To prepare the oleogel loaded with natural pigment, corn oil was selected as the solvent, beeswax was used as the gelling agent, glycerin monostearate (GMS) with different mass fractions was added as the emulsifier, and β-carotene was used as the representative functional factor. The relationships between the crystal morphology, rheology, texture and thermodynamic properties of the oleogel and the encapsulation and stability of the pigment were investigated, and the application performance as a lipstick was analyzed. It was found that, with increasing mass fraction of GMS, the oleogel had higher storage modulus (G′), higher loss modulus (G″) and higher yield stress. The oleogels were dominated by β crystal form, and the oleogel containing 4% GMS had the largest crystal plane spacing, the largest crystal grain size and the largest crystallinity. The thixotropic recovery of the oleogel with 4% GMS was 17.36%, and it had the highest encapsulation rate (65.51%) and stability (retention of 82.20% after 12 h of light) for β-carotene. The lipstick with 4% GMS mass fraction had good overall performance. The results of this work had wide applicability and were of guiding significance for the development of natural lipstick products.

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    聚合物及固体颗粒对原油乳状液稳定性影响机制研究
    Study on the influence mechanisms of polymers and solid particles on the stability of crude oil emulsion
    杨超, 童志明, 王占生, 陈武
    2023 (10):  1156-1165.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.006
    摘要 ( 89 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(1668KB) ( 153 )  

    为了探明油田作业返排残液影响原油采出液脱水的原因,以返排残液中最常见的非离子型聚丙烯酰胺(NPAM)及瓜胶为聚合物代表,以石英砂为颗粒物代表,研究了单一聚合物、单一颗粒物及聚合物与颗粒物共存影响原油乳状液稳定性的机理。结果表明,单一聚合物对乳状液稳定性影响中,聚合物质量浓度增加至1 000 mg/L,乳状液脱水率降低至0%,粒径分布峰值均小于10 μm,黏度成倍增长,含瓜胶乳状液黏度增加了2.80倍,含NPAM黏度增加了1.82倍,平衡界面张力下降,油水界面黏弹性增加且弹性模量是黏性模量的4~5倍,此时界面膜以弹性膜为主,界面膜强度增加,乳状液稳定性增加。单一颗粒物对乳状液影响为含固量增加至1%,乳状液脱水率降低了9.90%,黏度增加了46.36%,油水界面张力降低了9.10%左右。聚合物和固体颗粒叠加影响作用于乳状液,含固量1%且聚合物质量浓度增加时,脱水率从54.50%降低至0%,黏度增加了2.58倍,粒径分布峰值降低了74.97%;这些现象说明乳状液中聚合物和固体颗粒增多,脱水难度增加,乳状液稳定性增加。

    To clarify the reasons why the backflow residue of oilfield operation affects the dehydration of produced crude oil, the mechanisms for single polymers, single solid particles and the coexistence of a polymer and particles affecting the stability of crude oil emulsion were studied, in which NPAM and guar gum, which are the most common backflow residues, were taken as the representatives of polymers, and quartz sand as the representative of solid particles. The results showed that single polymers could influence the stability of the emulsion. When the mass concentration of the polymer was increased to 1 000 mg/L, the dehydration rate of the emulsion was decreased to 0%, and the peak of particle size distribution was less than 10 μm. The viscosity was significantly increased, i.e., the viscosity of the emulsion containing guar gum was increased to 3.80 times, and the viscosity of the emulsion containing NPAM was increased to 2.82 times. The equilibrium interfacial tension was decreased, the viscoelasticity of the oil-water interface was increased, and the elastic modulus was 4-5 times that of the viscous modulus. In this case, the boundary film was mainly elastic, the strength of the boundary film was increased, and thus the stability of the emulsion was increased. The influence of single solid particles on the emulsion was that, when the solid content was increased to 1%, the dehydration rate of the emulsion was decreased by 9.90%, the viscosity was increased by 46.36%, and the interfacial tension between oil and water was decreased by approximately 9.10%. The coexistence of a polymer and solid particles had superposition effect on the stability of the emulsion. The increase of the polymer and solid particles in emulsion would increase the difficulty of dehydration and the stability of the emulsion. When the solid particle content was fixed at 1% and the polymer concentration was increased, the dehydration rate was decreased from 54.50% to 0%, the viscosity was increased to 3.58 times, and the peak of particle size distribution was significantly decreased.

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    氨基酸衍生物结合试验在化妆品检测中的应用
    Application of amino acid derivative reactivity assay for skin sensitization prediction of cosmetics
    丁诗璇, 李小林, 陈瑜, 于婕
    2023 (10):  1166-1172.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.007
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    以OECD指南为基础,在实验室建立氨基酸衍生物结合试验(ADRA)方法并进行实验室内验证,同时评估该方法对测试化妆品配方致敏反应的可能性。依据OECD 442C指南,将受试物(包括化学品和化妆水配方)分别与半胱氨酸衍生物和赖氨酸衍生物以50∶1的比例避光孵育24 h,采用高效液相色谱法分析两种氨基酸衍生物的消耗,计算氨基酸衍生物消耗率并依据ADRA预测模型对受试物致敏性进行判定。同样条件下使用商业化ADRA试剂盒按照操作规程检测相同受试物的致敏性。由试验结果可知,实验室建立的ADRA方法可以准确区分13种化学品的致敏性,检测结果与OECD 442C指南及文献中小鼠淋巴结试验(LLNA)结果一致,也与商业化试剂盒检测结果一致;ADRA对5种化妆水配方检测结果显示4种为致敏物、1种为非致敏物。

    A laboratory method of amino acid derivative reactivity assay (ADRA) was established and validated based on the OECD guideline. Meanwhile, the possibility of applying ADRA to predict skin sensitization in cosmetic products was also evaluated. According to the guidance of OECD 442C, test substances (including chemicals and toners) were incubated with cysteine and lysine derivatives at a ratio of 50∶1, respectively, in the dark for 24 h. The amino acid derivatives consumptions were analyzed by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). The percent depletion was calculated, and each chemical was classified into sensitizers and non-sensitizers using the ADRA prediction model. The same test substances were applied to an ADRA commercial kit. The results show that, 13 chemicals are correctly classified by ADRA as sensitizers or non-sensitizers. The results obtained in the lab are consistent with LLNA data, OECD TG 442C and the results of the commercial kit. Four toners are identified by ADRA as sensitizers and one as non-sensitizer.

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    多重交联水凝胶体系的抗剪切性能评价研究
    Evaluation of shear resistance of multi-crosslinked hydrogel system
    蒲草, 朱诗杰, 刘丽娟, 汪士凯, 徐建根, 刘哲知
    2023 (10):  1173-1179.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.008
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    凝胶调驱体系注入过程中的强剪切降解作用严重阻碍了施工应用效果,改善凝胶调驱体系的抗剪切性能,实现高效的深部调驱十分重要。通过对比疏水缔合聚合物(DHAP)与部分水解聚丙烯酰胺为主剂(HPAM)的多重交联水凝胶体系,开展抗剪切性、成胶性能、老化稳定性、封堵能力和调驱效果等内容研究。结果表明:疏水缔合聚合物在经历注入速度为175 mL/min的炮眼剪切后,黏度损失率仅4%,交联成胶后依然具备15 Pa·s的高强度,在多孔介质中的封堵率能够达到91%;在并联岩心驱替实验中,能够有效调驱,扩大对低渗岩心的波及效率,比HPAM为主剂的体系提高10%的原油采收率。通过适当降低共价交联密度,构筑的适度共价交联+非共价交联的水凝胶体系,能够在多孔介质中建立起较好的调驱作用能力。

    The strong shear degradation in the injection process of gel profile control and flooding system has seriously hindered the effectiveness of construction application. It is very important to improve the shear resistance of gel profile control and flooding system and achieve high-efficiency deep profile control and flooding. The multi-crosslinked hydrogel systems in which hydrophobically associating polymer (DHAP) and partially hydrolyzed polyacrylamide (HPAM) were used as the main agents were studied in the aspects of shear resistance, gel forming performance, aging stability, plugging ability and the effect of profile control and flooding. The results showed that the viscosity loss of DHAP was only 4% after being sheared by a blast hole with an injection rate of 175 mL/min, and high strength of 15 Pa·s was still obtained after crosslinking and gelling, and the plugging rate in porous media could reach 91%. In the parallel core displacement experiment, effective profile control and flooding could be achieved, the sweep efficiency of low-permeability cores was expanded, and the oil recovery was improved by 10% compared with the HPAM-based system. By appropriately reducing the covalent crosslinking density, the hydrogel system of moderate covalent crosslinking+non-covalent crosslinking could exhibit good ability of profile control and flooding in porous media.

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    红景天提取物的护肤功效及安全性评价研究
    Study on the skincare efficacy and safety evaluation of Rhodiola rosea extract
    周妍, 韩蕊娜
    2023 (10):  1180-1185.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.009
    摘要 ( 190 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF(1229KB) ( 240 )  

    研究红景天提取物的护肤功效及安全性。通过DPPH自由基清除实验验证红景天提取物的抗氧化作用。结果表明,在一定浓度范围内,红景天提取物可有效消除DPPH自由基和活性氧,对氧化损伤的细胞发挥保护作用,具有一定的抗氧化作用;通过弹性蛋白酶抑制率验证红景天提取物维持皮肤弹性的作用,红景天提取物可有效抑制弹性蛋白酶活性;通过酪氨酸酶活性抑制率和小鼠黑色素瘤细胞黑色素消除率验证红景天提取物对黑色素生成的抑制作用,红景天提取物可显著抑制酪氨酸酶活性、延缓黑色素生成,存在潜在的美白功效;通过人体皮肤重复性开放型涂抹试验验证红景天提取安全性,结果表明48 h后无受试者出现皮肤不良反应,证明在一定浓度范围内,红景天提取物对人体皮肤无刺激性。

    This paper aimed to study the skincare efficacy and safety of Rhodiola rosea extract. The antioxidant effect of Rhodiola rosea extract was verified through DPPH free radical scavenging experiment. The results show that within a certain concentration range, Rhodiola rosea extract can effectively eliminate DPPH free radicals and reactive oxygen species, which plays a protective role on the cells damaged by oxidation, and has a certain antioxidant effect. The effect of Rhodiola rosea extract on maintaining skin elasticity was verified through the inhibition rate of elastase, and Rhodiola rosea extract can effectively inhibit elastase activity. The inhibitory effect of Rhodiola rosea extract on melanogenesis was verified through the inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity and the elimination rate of melanin in mouse melanoma cells. Rhodiola rosea extract can significantly inhibit tyrosinase activity, delay melanogenesis, and has potential whitening effects. The safety of Rhodiola rosea extract was verified through a repeated open application test on human skin. The results show that no adverse skin reactions occurred after 48 hours, indicating that within a certain concentration range, Rhodiola rosea extract has no irritating effect on human skin.

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    专论与综述
    异噻唑啉酮类防腐剂标准现状及检测技术研究进展
    Current status of standards and research progress of detection methods of isothiazolinone preservatives
    何小玲, 马艳, 邓星, 陆嘉莉, 吴荣荣, 龙梅
    2023 (10):  1186-1193.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.010
    摘要 ( 124 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(1013KB) ( 155 )  

    异噻唑啉酮类防腐剂因其广谱高效和环境友好等特点,在化妆品、玩具、涂料等领域广泛应用。国内外关于异噻唑啉酮类防腐剂引起的过敏反应或接触性皮炎,甚至皮肤灼伤的报道越来越多,引发社会高度关注。关注异噻唑啉酮类防腐剂相关法规标准,选择准确高效的分析方法,对其进行安全性风险评估具有重要意义。本文总结了欧盟和中国对异噻唑啉酮类防腐剂的限量要求,以及国内目前的检测标准现状。简要概述了加速溶剂萃取法、固相萃取法、QuEchERS等前处理技术,重点综述了气相色谱法、气相色谱-质谱法、液相色谱法和液相色谱-串联质谱法等检测分析技术在异噻唑啉酮类防腐剂中的应用。最后对该类防腐剂检测方法研究的发展方向进行了展望,以期为相关研究人员和完善相关标准体系提供参考。

    Isothiazolinone preservatives are broad-spectrum, high-efficiency and environmentally friendly, which have been widely used in cosmetics, toys, coatings and other fields. However, there are more and more reports at home and abroad about allergic reactions, contact dermatitis, and even chemical skin burns caused by isothiazolinone preservatives, which has aroused concerns in society. It is of great significance to pay attention to the relevant regulations and standards of isothiazolinone preservatives and select accurate and efficient analytical methods for their safety risk assessments. Herein, a comprehensive overview on the limits of content of isothiazolinone preservatives in European Union and China was made, as well as the domestic situation of detection standards. The pretreatment techniques, including accelerated solvent extraction, solid-phase extraction, and QuEChERS, were briefly reviewed. The applications of gas chromatography, gas chromatography-mass spectrometry, liquid chromatography, and liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry for isothiazolinone preservatives were reviewed. Finally, the development direction of detection techniques for isothiazolinone preservatives in different products was prospected, in order to provide reference to related researchers and improve the relevant standard system.

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    黑色素的生成代谢机制及研究方法进展
    Progress in metabolic mechanism and research methods of melanin production
    杨小玉, 刘金俊, 刘蕾, 何聪芬, 毕永贤, 李昊
    2023 (10):  1194-1203.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.011
    摘要 ( 319 )   HTML ( 22 )   PDF(1270KB) ( 227 )  

    随着时代的发展,“以白为美”思潮在近几年迎来了高涨期,美白市场空前繁荣。黑色素合成代谢过程在很大程度上调控着皮肤的颜色,因此美白剂的开发主要依赖于活性物质对黑色素的调节作用。本文将黑色素的合成、转运以及代谢过程细分为以下五个步骤:1)黑素细胞内黑素小体的装配;2)黑素小体的成熟及黑素的合成;3)成熟的黑素小体向黑素细胞树突状远端移动;4)黑素小体转移至角质形成细胞;5)黑素小体在角质形成细胞中的再分布或降解、排出。结合以上五个步骤的最新研究进展对其关键机制、重要标志物以及检测方法进行总结阐述,为美白剂的开发提供更加具体且科学的理论基础及开发思路。

    With the development of the times, the market demand of whitening agent is increasing day by day, which has a high development value. Skin color mainly depends on the proportion of true melanin and brown melanin, as well as the number, size, distribution and degree of melanization of melanosomes, so the development of whitening active substances mainly depends on the process of melanin production. Based on this, this paper focuses on the literature reports in the past few years, summarizes and discusses the latest progress in the regulation process of melanin production in five steps, and summarizes the key regulation signal pathways, important markers and their detection methods from the regulation mechanism. It provides a theoretical basis for the development of whitening products from a more comprehensive and specific perspective. Finally, with reference to the action mechanism of different stages of melanogenesis, the different ways and current research progress of the development of whitening active components are summarized. The combined use of whitening active ingredients can play a greater whitening effect to a certain extent, and it has gradually become the development trend of whitening agents. This paper can provide a reference for melanin production through the regulation of different stages of melanin, and provide a more scientific research and development direction for whitening products.

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    2017—2021年我国进口防晒化妆品注册情况分析
    Analysis on registration of imported sunscreen cosmetics in China in 2017—2021
    塔娜, 余振喜, 高家敏, 张凤兰, 王钢力
    2023 (10):  1204-1210.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.012
    摘要 ( 122 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(1144KB) ( 156 )  

    通过查询国家药监局网站公布的化妆品批件信息,对2017—2021年我国进口防晒化妆品的批件数量、原产国、紫外线防御能力、剂型和配方中防晒剂等数据进行归纳、整理和分析。结果显示:2017—2021年五年间,我国共发放进口防晒化妆品批件3 057件,韩国是进口防晒化妆品的最大原产国;紫外线防御能力方面,SPF值未见明显增长,高PFA值产品占比有明显提高;进口防晒化妆品主要剂型为膏霜乳,喷雾剂有逐渐增加的趋势;产品配方中使用频率最高的防晒剂是安全系数相对较高的甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯。针对上述分析结果,结合文献报道、法规监管和社会热点等方面内容,进一步剖析以期全方位了解我国进口防晒化妆品情况,为我国化妆品市场监管和国内化妆品企业研发提供有益的借鉴和参考。

    By inquiring the information on the approval documents for cosmetics published on the website of CFDA, the number of approval documents, country of origin, ultraviolet defense ability, dosage form, and sunscreen agents for the import of sunscreen cosmetics in China from 2017 to 2021 were summarized and analyzed. The results showed that 3 057 approval documents for imported sunscreen cosmetics were issued in China during the past five years from 2017 to 2021, and South Korea was the largest country of origin of imported sunscreen cosmetics; in terms of ultraviolet defense ability, SPF value did not significantly increase, and the proportion of products with high PFA values was significantly increased; the main dosage form of imported sunscreen cosmetics was cream, while spray had a gradually increasing trend; the sunscreen agent with the highest frequency of use in the product formulas was ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate with a relatively high safety. Based on the analysis results above, further analysis was made combined with literature reports, regulatory supervision and social hotspots, which was helpful to fully understand the situation of imported sunscreen cosmetics in China and provide useful references for the market supervision of cosmetics in China and the research and development of cosmetics for domestic enterprises.

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    石榴皮主要活性成分及其在化妆品中的应用研究进展
    Research progress on the application of main active ingredients of pomegranate peel in cosmetics
    宋子欣, 孙倩茹, 方嘉璇, 王昌涛, 李萌, 王冬冬
    2023 (10):  1211-1219.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.013
    摘要 ( 208 )   HTML ( 20 )   PDF(1338KB) ( 147 )  

    近些年来,随着人们对于化妆品的安全性的重视程度不断加深,植物提取物在化妆品中的应用也越加广泛。石榴皮作为传统的中药材,其中含有的丰富的鞣质类化合物、黄酮类化合物、多糖和有机酸等多种生物活性成分,体现出了它在化妆品中具有很好的应用价值。研究发现,石榴皮提取物可以在具有抗皱、防腐、美白、防晒等多种功效的化妆品中发挥作用。文章总结论述了石榴皮中含有的主要活性成分以及功效性研究,并讨论了石榴皮在化妆品中的应用现状以及未来的展望。

    In recent years, as people pay more attention to the safety of cosmetics, the application of plant extracts in cosmetics has become more and more extensive. Pomegranate peel, as a traditional Chinese herbal medicine, it has high security. Pomegranate peel is rich in tannins, flavonoids, polysaccharides, organic acids and other bioactive components, reflecting its good application value in cosmetics. It has many physiological and pharmacological activities, such as anti-oxidation, anti-bacterial, antimutagenic, anti-virus and anti-cancer. Through literature research, pomegranate peel extract is widely used in cosmetics with anti-wrinkle, anti-corrosion, whitening, sunscreen and other effects. However, studies have shown that pomegranate peel is slightly toxic, mainly because it contains alkaloids. The safety of pomegranate peel extract in cosmetics should be further studied. At present, there are few studies on the application of pomegranate peel extract in cosmetics instead of traditional preservatives, and its practical application as a preservative needs to be further studied. In addition, data on human efficacy evaluation of pomegranate peel extract in cosmetics with whitening and sunscreen effects are also scarce. Therefore, this paper summarizes and discusses the efficacy study and main active ingredients in pomegranate peel, and finally discusses the application status and future prospects of pomegranate peel in cosmetics. This paper is hoped to provide reference for the application of pomegranate peel extract in functional cosmetics.

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    基于表观遗传学的皮肤抗衰及相关化妆品的研究与发展
    Research and development of skin anti-aging and related cosmetics based on epigenetics
    钟美莹, 张浩, 黄琴, 唐文迪, 蓝爱玲
    2023 (10):  1220-1226.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.014
    摘要 ( 158 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(972KB) ( 143 )  

    表观遗传学是指不涉及DNA序列改变的基因或者蛋白表达的变化,并可以在发育和细胞增殖过程中稳定传递的遗传学分支学科。表观遗传学与人体皮肤衰老密切相关,其表现为人体皮肤表观遗传修饰的变化。通过研究及利用表观遗传修饰可逆转的特性,能够将表观遗传学的研究应用到皮肤抗衰及抗衰相关化妆品领域当中。文章概述了表观遗传学在皮肤抗衰及化妆品研究与应用当中的主要内容,通过DNA甲基化、组蛋白修饰和微小RNA调控在细胞外基质调节,细胞增殖分化调控,黑色素合成或代谢调节,抗氧化应激能力调节上的表观遗传修饰表现形式及逆转方式,展示了基于表观遗传学的多种皮肤抗衰机制;以及通过人体衰老过程中表观遗传修饰的变化,对皮肤衰老的原因和表征进行解释,为抗衰相关化妆品的研发提供科学依据。本文综述了表观遗传学与皮肤抗衰相关的多种作用机制的关系与表现形式,为皮肤衰老研究提供理论依据,并对未来抗衰相关化妆品的发展进行展望。

    Epigenetics is a branch of genetics that refers to the changes in gene or protein expression that do not involve changes in DNA sequence and can be stably transmitted during development and cell proliferation. Epigenetics is closely related to human skin aging, which is manifested as the change of human skin epigenetic modification. Through the research and utilization of the reversible characteristics of epigenetic modification, the research of epigenetics can be applied to the field of skin anti-aging and anti-aging related cosmetics. This paper summarizes the main contents of epigenetics in the research and application of skin anti-aging and cosmetics. Through the epigenetic modification manifestations and reversal modes of DNA methylation, including histone modification and microRNA regulation in extracellular matrix regulation, cell proliferation and differentiation regulation, melanin synthesis or metabolism regulation, and antioxidant stress capacity regulation, the various mechanisms of epigenetics in skin anti-aging are shown. It also explains the cause and characterization of skin aging through the changes of epigenetic modification during human aging, providing scientific basis for the research and development of anti-aging cosmetics. This paper reviews the relationship and manifestations of multiple mechanisms of action related to epigenetics and skin anti-aging, providing a theoretical basis for skin aging research and looking forward to the development of anti-aging related cosmetics in the future.

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    分析与检测
    基于扩增子测序分析益生菌牙膏中菌群多样性
    Analysis of bacterial diversity in probiotic toothpaste based on amplicon sequencing
    吴渊, 梁媛媛, 周志南, 黄甜甜, 夏琪琪, 刘鹏鹏
    2023 (10):  1227-1232.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.015
    摘要 ( 91 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1412KB) ( 106 )  

    通过常规方法检测益生菌牙膏中的活性菌,并采用高通量测序技术对20种市售益生菌牙膏16S rDNA的V3、V4区进行测序,扩增子测序分析不同牙膏中的菌群结构并进行α多样性分析,最后基于特异性引物,使用PCR方法检测20种牙膏中副干酪乳杆菌成分。结果表明:1)20种益生菌牙膏菌落总数均<10 CFU/g,乳酸菌总数均<10 CFU/g;2)通过扩增子测序结果分析,牙膏中还添加了干酪乳杆菌以外的乳酸菌,有18种牙膏中添加了发酵乳杆菌、嗜酸乳酸杆菌和德氏乳杆菌亚种,20种牙膏中添加了植物乳杆菌,19种牙膏中添加了罗伊氏乳杆菌。高通量测序对原核微生物的α多样性分析,表明牙膏中原核微生物丰度和菌落多样性较高;3)牙膏DNA提取物通过PCR及测序,结果表明20种牙膏均按标签标识添加了副干酪乳杆菌。

    The active bacteria in 20 commercially available probiotic toothpastes were detected by conventional methods, and high-throughput sequencing of the V3 and V4 regions of 16S rDNA. The amplicon analysis was used for α Diversity and Microbial Community Structure analysis. Finally, based on the specific primers, the PCR method was used to detect Lactobacillus paracasei in 20 toothpastes. 1) The results show that the total bacterial count of 20 probiotic toothpastes is <10 CFU/g, and the total lactic acid bacteria is <10 CFU/g. 2) Through analyzing the amplicon PCR sequencing results, lactobacillus other than Lactobacillus casei are added to the toothpaste, 18 toothpastes add Lactobacillus fermentans, Lactobacillus acidophilus and Lactobacillus delbrueckii subspecies, 20 toothpastes add Lactobacillus plantarum, and 19 toothpastes add Lactobacillus reuteri. The sequencing diversity analysis show that the abundance of prokaryotic microorganisms and the diversity of colonies in the toothpaste are high. 3) The results of PCR and sequencing of toothpaste DNA extracts show that Lactobacillus paracasei is added to 20 toothpastes according to the label.

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    高效液相色谱法测定口洁含漱液中13种化学成分的含量
    Determination of 13 chemical components in Koujie gargle by HPLC
    吴晓燕, 宋发祥
    2023 (10):  1233-1240.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.10.016
    摘要 ( 117 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(1108KB) ( 146 )  

    建立了高效液相色谱法(HPLC)测定口洁含漱液中新绿原酸、绿原酸、咖啡酸、木犀草苷、3,5-O-二咖啡酰基奎宁酸、4,5-O-二咖啡酰基奎宁酸、木犀草素、芹菜素、马钱苷、当药苷、断氧化马钱子苷、(R,S)-告依春、直铁线莲宁B共13种成分的含量。以Waters Symmetry C18(250 mm×4.6 mm,5 μm)为色谱柱,流动相:乙腈-0.3%磷酸,梯度洗脱,流速为1.0 mL/min,柱温为30 ℃,检测波长为348,240和224 nm。结果显示,口洁含漱液中13种化学成分的线性关系良好(r≥0.999 1),平均加样回收率为96.92%~100.11%,RSD为0.53%~1.58%。所建立的高效液相波长切换法结果准确,可用于口洁含漱液的质量控制。

    The study aimed to develop an high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method for the determination of neochlorogenic acid, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, luteolin-7-O-glucoside, 3,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid, 4,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid, luteolin, apigenin, loganin, sweroside, secoxyloganin; (R, S)-goitrin and clemastanin B in Koujie gargle. Separation was carried out using Waters Symmetry C18 (250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm) with mobile phase of acetonitrile-0.3% phosphoric acid in gradient elution. The detection wavelength was set at 348 nm, 240 nm and 224 nm. The flow rate was 1.0 mL/min, and the column temperature was 30 ℃. The results show that the linear relationship of 13 chemical components in Koujie gargle is good (r≥0.999 1), the average recovery ranges from 96.92% to 100.11%, and the RSD ranges from 0.53% to 1.58%. The established HPLC wavelength switching method is accurate which can be used for the quality control of Koujie gargle.

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