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2023年, 第53卷, 第9期　刊出日期：2023-09-22 上一期    下一期

基础研究

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琥珀酸酯磺酸盐物化特性及其与甜菜碱复配体系界面性能 Physicochemical properties of ethoxylated sulfosuccinate surfactants and their interfacial properties when mixed with a betaine surfactant 常世腾, 蔡小军, 郑延成, 刘雪瑾, 易晓, 蒋筑阳 2023 (9):  989-998.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.001 摘要 ( 169 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF(1336KB) ( 277 )   为满足低渗油藏注低矿化水开采原油的需要，研究了系列琥珀酸异酯磺酸盐表面活性剂（C12EO6-CnMS，n=10，12，14和16）的泡沫特性以及溶液的表/界面活性，并研究了C12EO6-CnMS与甜菜碱表面活性剂混合物的界面性能，得到了表面活性剂体系的最小烷烃碳数（Nmin）。实验结果表明，C12EO6-CnMS表面活性剂具有低泡性。C12EO6-CnMS表面活性剂的临界胶束浓度（cmc）随着其脂肪醇碳链长度的增加而减小。同时，无机盐的加入使得C12EO6-CnMS表面活性剂的cmc进一步降低，并且其降低程度随着无机盐浓度的增加而增大。脂肪醇碳链长度为10的C12EO6-C10MS表面活性剂与羧基甜菜碱（C16ZC）所形成的复配体系具有降低cmc的协同作用。C12EO6-CnMS与烷烃间的界面张力（IFT）随着表面活性剂的脂肪醇碳链长度的增加而增加。对表面活性剂与系列正构烷烃的界面张力扫描，得到了琥珀酸异酯磺酸盐表面活性剂最小烷烃碳数，并且Nmin随着无机盐的加入而增加。当加入质量分数为0.5%~1% NaCl时，C12EO6-C10MS和C12EO6-C12MS的Nmin为12~14。同样地，C12EO6-C10MS和C16ZC的复配体系具有降低界面张力的协同作用，当两者的摩尔比为4/1，3/2和2/3时，在0.5%~1% NaCl介质中复配体系的IFT值可与十二烷、十四烷和十六烷达到超低或低界面张力值（10-3~10-2 mN/m），该复配体系适用于EACN为12~16的原油的开采。 To enhance oil recovery in low-permeability reservoirs through the injection of low-mineralized water, the foaming behavior, surface tension and interfacial tension of a series of ethoxylated sulfosuccinate surfactants （C12EO6-CnMS, n=10, 12, 14 and 16） were investigated. The interfacial properties of mixtures of C12EO6-CnMS and a betaine surfactant were also studied, and the minimum alkane carbon number （Nmin） of the mixed system was obtained. The experimental results showed that C12EO6-CnMS exhibited low-foaming properties. The critical micelle concentration （cmc） of the surfactants decreased when the carbon chain length of the fatty alcohol （n） attached to ester group was increased. The addition of inorganic salts could reduce the cmc of C12EO6-CnMS, and the more inorganic salt, the more reduction of cmc. The mixed system of C12EO6-C10MS （in which the fatty alcohol carbon chain length was C10） and the betaine surfactant C16ZC displayed synergistic effect, exhibiting smaller cmc. The interfacial tension （IFT） between C12EO6-CnMS and n-alkanes increased as the carbon chain length （n） of the surfactants increased. The scanning of IFT values between C12EO6-CnMS and a series of n-alkanes was operated to determine the minimum alkane carbon number （Nmin） for the surfactant. Notably, the Nmin value increased with the addition of inorganic salts. In the presence of 0.5%-1% NaCl, the Nmin values for C12EO6-C10MS and C12EO6-C12MS are 12-14. As for surfactant mixtures, in the presence of 0.5%-1% NaCl, when the molar ratios of C12EO6-C10MS to C16ZC are 4/1, 3/2 and 2/3, the mixtures exhibited synergistic effect in reducing interfacial tension, achieving ultra-low to low IFT values （10-3-10-2 mN/m） against dodecane, tetradecane and cetane. It makes the system suitable for enhanced oil recovery （EOR） of crude oil with equivalent alkane carbon number （EACN） of 12-16. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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基于脂质组学的敏感性皮肤表面脂质差异分析 Differential analysis of sensitive skin surface lipids based on lipidomics 万宗元, 佟薇, 周淳, 胡坪, 欧阳胜, 章弘扬 2023 (9):  999-1007.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.002 摘要 ( 178 )   HTML ( 23 )   PDF(1354KB) ( 298 )   建立了基于脂质组学技术的人面部皮肤表面脂质采集、检测及分析方法，用于敏感性皮肤脂质代谢紊乱的研究。首先通过乳酸刺痛实验将青年女性志愿者分为敏感性皮肤组和非敏感性皮肤组，检测其生理指标并采集面部皮肤表面脂质进行超高效液相色谱-四极杆-飞行时间质谱（UPLC-Q-TOF-MS）分析。随后，运用正交偏最小二乘-判别分析（OPLS-DA）结合t检验筛选出差异性成分并进行精准二级质谱鉴定，共指认出29种甘油三酯类（TG）差异性脂质。与非敏感性皮肤组相比，敏感性皮肤组中这些差异性TG的水平显著降低，并对相关生物学意义进行了阐述。本研究为敏感性皮肤发生机制的探索及相关护肤品的研发提供了理论指导和技术支撑。 This paper established a method for collecting, detecting, and analyzing the human facial skin surface lipids based on lipidomics technology for the study of lipid metabolic disorders in sensitive skin. Firstly, the young female volunteers were divided into the sensitive skin group and non-sensitive skin group by lactic acid stinging test, then the physiological indices were detected and the facial skin surface lipids were analyzed by the ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole-time of flight mass spectrometry （UPLC-Q-TOF-MS）. Subsequently, the differential components were screened by orthogonal partial least-squares discrimination analysis （OPLS-DA） combined with t test and identified via high-resolution MS/MS, and totally 29 differential lipids of triglyceride （TG） were assigned. Compared with the non-sensitive skin group, the levels of these differential TGs are significantly reduced in the sensitive skin group, and the relevant biological significance is explained. This study provides theoretical guidance and technical support for the exploration of the pathogenesis of sensitive skin as well as the research and development of related skin care products. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

科技讲座

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新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用（I）——液晶乳化体系 New emulsion system and its application in cosmetics （I）Liquid crystal emulsion system 周康夫, 晏佳怡, 尚亚卓 2023 (9):  1008-1017.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.003 摘要 ( 408 )   HTML ( 31 )   PDF(4080KB) ( 491 )   液晶乳化体系是一种新型的乳化体系，体系中表面活性剂（乳化剂）分子在油、水界面定向排列，形成长程有序、短程无序的液晶结构（通常为层状液晶）。乳化剂形成的层状液晶与皮肤角质层结构相似，使其在化妆品、生物医学等领域有着广阔的应用前景。随着人们对液晶认知的不断深入，以及消费者对液晶乳化产品优势的逐步认可，液晶乳化体系在高端化妆品中正得到广泛的应用。本文首先介绍了液晶及液晶乳化体系，总结了影响液晶乳化体系中液晶形成的因素以及液晶乳化产品的性能，包括稳定性、锁水保湿性能、包裹、缓释及促渗透性能和肤感等。在此基础上，阐述了液晶乳化体系在化妆品领域的应用，并对近年开发的特殊液晶乳化体系——液晶包结晶乳化体系、多重液晶乳化体系进行了介绍。最后指出了现阶段液晶乳化体系在化妆品领域应用的局限性，并对亟待解决的问题提出了个人看法，旨在为液晶乳化体系的开发及有效应用提供参考。 Liquid crystal emulsion system is a new type of emulsion system, in which the surfactant （emulsifier） molecules locate at the oil/water interface and form a long-range ordered and short-range disordered liquid crystal structure （usually lamellar liquid crystal）. The lamellar liquid crystals formed by emulsifier are similar to the skin stratum corneum lipid structure, which enable it a broad application prospect in the field of cosmetics, biomedicine, etc. With the further understanding of the liquid crystal and the gradual recognition of the advantages of liquid crystal emulsion products, the liquid crystal emulsion system has been used in high-end cosmetics widely in the past few years. In this paper, the liquid crystal and the liquid crystal emulsion system are introduced firstly and then the factors of affecting the formation of liquid crystal in emulsions are summarized. The properties of liquid crystal emulsion systems including the stability, water locking property, sustained-release property, penetration enhancing property as well as the skin sense are also provided. On this basis, the application of liquid crystal emulsion system in the cosmetic field is expounded. Furthermore, the novel liquid crystal emulsion system developed in recent years, including crystal encapsulated in liquid crystal emulsion and multiple liquid crystal emulsion are introduced. Finally, the limitations of the application of liquid crystal emulsion system in the field of cosmetics are put forward and personal views on the problems to be solved are proposed, which may provide necessary reference for the development and effective application of liquid crystal emulsion system. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

开发与应用

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油酸在氢氧化胆碱水溶液中的自组装及十二烷基硫酸钠对其囊泡化pH窗口的影响 Self-assembly of oleic acid in aqueous solution of choline hydroxide and effects of sodium dodecyl sulfate on the pH window thereof for vesicle formation 梁馨, 胥会芳, 陆松, 李圆圆, 王斯佳, 谢彩侠 2023 (9):  1018-1028.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.004 摘要 ( 94 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(2613KB) ( 148 )   脂肪酸囊泡具有封闭双层膜结构，可包埋活性分子。以油酸（OA）为模型脂肪酸，依据pH滴定曲线和目视观察法划分胶束、囊泡、乳液或油水分相等相区，确定了OA在氢氧化胆碱（ChOH）中囊泡化的pH窗口为7.5~9.1，用动态光散射、相差显微镜结合透射电子显微镜技术进一步表征了OA/ChOH囊泡的尺寸和形貌，呈现尺度多分散性。为进一步改善OA/ChOH囊泡形成pH范围窄且远离人体生理条件的缺陷，加入阴离子表面活性剂十二烷基硫酸钠（SDS），结果表明SDS摩尔分数（x）为0.1时即可将囊泡化pH窗口向酸性迁移至生理pH条件附近；随x增加，复合囊泡pH窗口呈现向酸性拓宽的趋势，甚至可达到强酸性条件。复合囊泡形成的主要原因是SDS与OA分子间的氢键作用，在较低pH范围内可代替“酸-皂”二聚体间的氢键作用。复合囊泡作为包埋体时，具有较高的包封率和载药量以及良好的缓释效果。 Fatty acid vesicles have closed bilayer structure and can encapsulate active molecules. Taking oleic acid （OA） as model fatty acid, the phase regions including micelles, vesicles, emulsion and oil-water separation were designated using pH titration curve and visual observation method. The pH window of OA/hydroxide choline （ChOH） vesicles was determined to be 7.5-9.1. The size and morphology of OA/ChOH vesicles were characterized using dynamic light scattering, phase contrast microscopy and transmission electron microscopy, showing size polydispersity. An anionic surfactant, sodium dodecyl sulfate （SDS）, was added to OA/ChOH system, aiming to shift and expand the pH window of OA/ChOH vesicles to a range from being acidic to slightly alkaline, depending on the molar ratio （x） of SDS. At x=0.1, the pH window could be shifted to lower pH which matched the pH range of body fluid. With increasing x, the pH window was significantly broadened towards acidity, even reaching a very low pH of 1.3. The hydrogen bonding between SDS and OA molecules played a key role in the vesicle formation in the lower pH range, which had replaced the hydrogen bonding between acid-soap dimers of fatty acids. The composite vesicles as capsules had higher encapsulation efficiency, drug-loading capacity, and sustained drug release properties. This research work could provide a theoretical guidance for potential application in drug delivery and cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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乳酸促脂溢性脱发小鼠毛发生长研究 Study on the effect of lactic acid in promoting hair growth in seborrheic alopecia mice 罗晓健, 洪石希, 罗晶, 杨思, 王紫艳, 熊耀坤 2023 (9):  1029-1034.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.005 摘要 ( 142 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF(2738KB) ( 171 )   通过除去C57BL/6小鼠背部毛发及涂抹睾酮建立脂溢性脱发模型，研究乳酸对脂溢性脱发小鼠毛发生长，毛囊生长周期及生长因子的影响。将60只C57BL/6小鼠随机分为正常组，模型组，米诺地尔酊阳性组，乳酸高、中、低剂量组，并分别在脱毛区涂抹相对应的药物。连续给药24天，记录小鼠皮肤颜色变化时间、脱毛区毛发生长状况以及毛囊组织学特征和毛囊数目的变化；使用Elisa试剂盒检测小鼠体内KGF，VEGF和TGF-β1的质量浓度。结果表明，与模型组、正常组相比较，乳酸能显著促进脂溢性脱发小鼠毛发生长，增加小鼠毛发重量和给药实验区域皮肤毛囊数量，同时上调小鼠皮肤中KGF和VEGF质量浓度，降低小鼠皮肤中TGF-β1质量浓度，差异有统计学意义（P<0.05），其中以中剂量10 g/L乳酸溶液效果最佳，可加快小鼠毛发生长、促进小鼠毛囊生长期转化进程，抑制脂溢性脱发症状，其疗效与阳性药米诺地尔酊效果相当（P>0.05），可制成日用洗护产品预防脱发，为脂溢性脱发患者提供更多选择。 The seborrheic alopecia model was established by removing the back hair of C57BL/6 mice and smearing with testosterone. The effects of lactic acid on hair growth, hair follicle growth cycle and growth factors in seborrheic alopecia mice were studied based on this model. Sixty C57BL/6 mice were randomly divided into normal group, model group, minoxidil tincture positive group, and groups of high-, medium- and low-dose lactic acid, which were smeared with corresponding drugs on the depilation area. After 24 days of continual administration, the time of skin color change, the hair growth in depilation area, the histological characteristics of hair follicles and the change of hair follicle number were recorded. The concentration of KGF, VEGF, and TGF-β1 in mouse skin was measured by corresponding Elisa kits. The results showed that, compared with the model group and normal group, lactic acid could significantly promote hair elongation in seborrheic alopecia mice, and increase the weight of mouse hair and the number of skin hair follicles in the drug-administration experimental area. Meanwhile, the concentrations of KGF and VEGF in mouse skin were up-regulated, and the concentration of TGF-β1 in mouse skin was reduced, both of which the differences were statistically significant （P<0.05）. The medium dose （10 g/L） of lactic acid solution had the best effect, which could accelerate the hair growth of mice, promote the transformation process of hair follicles in the growth period, and inhibit the symptoms of seborrheic alopecia. The curative effect of medium dose （10 g/L） of lactic acid solution was equivalent to that of minoxidil tincture （P>0.05）. It could be applied in daily care products to prevent alopecia and provide more choice for patients with seborrheic alopecia. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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茶多酚的经皮渗透特征及其对UVA致HSF氧化损伤的保护作用 Percutaneous permeation characteristics of tea polyphenols and its protective effect on human skin fibroblasts under the oxidative damage of ultraviolet A 沈轶昕, 唐礼荣, 张辉 2023 (9):  1035-1043.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.006 摘要 ( 136 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF(1425KB) ( 91 )   研究了茶多酚的经皮渗透特征，探究茶多酚对长波紫外线（UVA）诱导的人皮肤成纤维细胞氧化损伤的保护作用机理。采用Franz扩散池，以大鼠皮肤为屏障，建立了完善的检测方法，用高效液相色谱检测茶多酚中儿茶素、表儿茶素、表儿茶素没食子酸酯、表没食子儿茶素没食子酸酯的经皮渗透指标；通过建立UVA损伤HSF细胞模型，探究了茶多酚对细胞活性氧含量、丙二醛水平、超氧化物歧化酶和谷胱甘肽过氧化物酶活力的影响。结果表明该检测方法具有较好的专属性、精密度和加样回收率，且茶多酚中的儿茶素、表儿茶素、表儿茶素没食子酸酯、表没食子儿茶素没食子酸酯4种物质均可较好地作用于皮肤，其中表儿茶素在透皮释放方面具有明显优势。茶多酚通过降低UVA辐照后HSF细胞中的ROS含量和MDA水平，可提高细胞内SOD和GSH-Px活力，对UVA诱导的HSF细胞氧化损伤具有良好的保护作用。 The aim was to study the transdermal penetration characteristics of tea polyphenols and explore the protective effect of tea polyphenols on UVA-induced oxidative damage in human skin fibroblasts （HSF）. Using the Franz diffusion cell with rat skin as a barrier, a well-performed detection method was established to detect the percutaneous penetration indexes of catechin, epicatechin, epicatechin gallate and epigallocatechin gallate in tea polyphenols by high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC）. The model of HSF damaged by UVA was established to explore the effect of tea polyphenols on the content of reactive oxygen species （ROS）, the level of malondialdehyde （MDA）, the enzymatic activity of superoxide dismutase （SOD） and glutathione peroxidase （GSH-Px） in cells. The results show that the detection method has good specificity, precision and average recovery. The transdermal permeability of catechin and epicatechin increase gradually with the increase of time, and the infiltration rate of epicatechin is greater than that of catechin. However, the transdermal permeability of epicatechin galate and epigallocatechin galate can not be detected in the 24 h experiment, but the two substances remain more in the skin, indicating that the four substances in tea polyphenols can be applied to the skin well. Besides, tea polyphenols have significant protective effect on UVA-induced oxidative damage in HSF by reducing the content of ROS and the level of MDA, increasing the enzymatic activity of SOD and GSH-Px. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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锰化合物抗氧化及保护头发光损伤功效评价 Evaluation of antioxidant and protective effect against hair light damage of manganese compound 陈丽媛, 高合意, 唐金晶, 刘作华, 刘仁龙 2023 (9):  1044-1050.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.007 摘要 ( 101 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1674KB) ( 86 )   采用体外评价方法对甘氨酸锰（GlyMn）、硫酸锰（MnSO4）进行抗氧化及保护头发光损伤功效研究。通过测定GlyMn、MnSO4对超氧自由基和过氧化氢以及羟基自由基清除活性，考察GlyMn、MnSO4对活性氧自由基含量的影响，评价其抗氧化功效。采用模拟太阳光诱导头发光损伤的氧化损伤实验测试头发黑色素降解产生自由基含量，头发表面SEM表征评价锰化合物对头发的光保护作用。采用人体功效实验评价GlyMn、MnSO4洗发液的功能。结果表明，GlyMn、MnSO4对3种自由基均有明显的清除作用，其中3 mmol/L锰化合物能明显清除超氧自由基，清除能力相当于3 U/mL锰超氧化物歧化酶，当当锰化合物浓度在50 mmol/L时能明显降低头发中黑色素降解产生的自由基，能够有效保护头发光损伤，保护头发毛鳞片不受损害，表现出明显的抗氧化及头发光损伤保护功效。 The antioxidation and hair protective effect of manganese glycine and manganese sulfate by experimental model in vitro are studied. The scavenging activities of GlyMn and MnSO4 on superoxide free radicals, hydrogen peroxide and hydroxyl free radicals were determined, and the content of GlyMn and MnSO4 on reactive oxygen free radicals was investigated to evaluate their antioxidant effects. The content of free radicals produced by the degradation of melanin in hair was measured by oxidative damage test, and the photoprotective effect of melanin on hair surface was evaluated by SEM. The function of GlyMn and MnSO4 shampoo was evaluated by human efficacy test. The results show that GlyMn and MnSO4 have significant scavenging effects on the three kinds of free radicals, among which 3 mmol/L manganese compound can significantly remove superoxide free radicals, which is equivalent to 3 U/mL manganese superoxide dismutase. When the concentration of manganese compound is 50 mmol/L, it can significantly reduce the free radicals produced by melanin degradation in hair. It can effectively protect the light damage of hair and protect the hair scales from damage, showing obvious antioxidant and light-damaged hair protection effect. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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氧化锌纳米复合抗菌材料的制备及性能研究 Preparation and performance study of zinc oxide nanocomposite antibacterial materials 常香玲, 柴菲 2023 (9):  1051-1056.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.008 摘要 ( 132 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(2372KB) ( 68 )   氧化锌作为一种光催化抗菌材料，因成本低和安全性较高而备受关注。本文通过超声-煅烧法制备了一系列掺杂不同TiO2摩尔分数（0%，5%，10%，15%，20%）的TiO2-ZnO复合抗菌材料，研究了该复合抗菌材料的晶格结构、微观形貌和光谱性能，并以ATCC 25922大肠杆菌为受试菌株，分析了TiO2-ZnO的抗菌性能和反应过程。结果表明：TiO2-ZnO复合材料是由六方纤锌矿ZnO和锐钛矿型TiO2组成，TiO2的添加生成了Zn-O-Ti新键，TiO2颗粒连续均匀地分布在ZnO表面，ZnO的尺寸为2~3 μm。测试大肠杆菌培养12 h的菌落情况，表明了纯ZnO的抗菌能力较弱，随着TiO2添加量的增加，菌落数量减少，TiO2-ZnO的抗菌能力逐渐提高，TiO2-ZnO （TiO2掺杂摩尔分数15%）复合抗菌材料的抗菌能力最强。光催化反应下，15 min时TiO2-ZnO的灭菌效率达到100%，TiO2-ZnO在光照下快速破坏了大肠杆菌的细胞膜，使大肠杆菌发生严重变形，细胞质流出，进而杀死细菌，TiO2的添加对ZnO抗菌材料的灭菌能力提升显著。 Zinc oxide, as a photocatalytic antibacterial material, has attracted much attention due to its low cost and high safety. In this paper, a series of TiO2-ZnO composite antibacterial materials with different TiO2 mole doping （0%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%） were prepared by ultrasonic calcination method. The results show that TiO2-ZnO composite is composed of hexagonal wurtzite ZnO and anatase TiO2. The addition of TiO2 generates new Zn-O-Ti bonds. TiO2 particles are continuously and evenly distributed on the surface of ZnO, and the size of ZnO is 2-3 μm. The colony of Escherichia coli （E. coli） cultured for 12 h shows that the antibacterial ability of pure ZnO is weak. With the increase of TiO2 addition, the number of colonies decreases, and the antibacterial ability of TiO2-ZnO gradually increases. The antibacterial ability of TiO2 ZnO composite antibacterial material with TiO2 doping mole ratio of 15% is the strongest. Under the photocatalytic reaction, the sterilization efficiency of TiO2-ZnO doped with 15% mole ratio of TiO2 reaches 100% in 15 min. TiO2-ZnO rapidly destroy the cell membrane of Escherichia coli under the light, causing serious deformation of Escherichia coli and the outflow of cytoplasm, thus killing bacteria. The addition of TiO2 significantly improves the sterilization ability of ZnO antibacterial materials. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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蚕丝丝肽嗜热栖热菌发酵液对皮肤抗炎抗衰功效的增效作用 Synergistic effect of silk peptides thermophilus fermentation on the skin anti-inflammatory and anti-aging activities 方婷欢, 郑婷, 蒋晴, 李晓霞, 唐礼荣 2023 (9):  1057-1064.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.009 摘要 ( 157 )   HTML ( 17 )   PDF(2117KB) ( 95 )   为研究嗜热栖热菌发酵的蚕丝丝肽在皮肤抗炎抗衰功效上的增效作用，以脂多糖（LPS）诱导的角质形成细胞（HaCaT细胞）和双氧水（H2O2）诱导的成纤维细胞（HDF细胞）为研究模型，通过比色法、酶联免疫吸附（ELISA）等方法检测蚕丝丝肽、嗜热栖热菌发酵液和蚕丝丝肽发酵液对细胞活力、炎症因子白介素1β（IL-1β）和白介素6（IL-6）的含量、屏障保湿相关蛋白水通道蛋白3 （AQP3）和丝聚蛋白（FLG）的含量、衰老相关标志物超氧化物歧化酶（SOD）、晚期糖基化终产物（AGEs）和人1型胶原蛋白（Col-1）的含量变化的影响。结果表明，蚕丝丝肽发酵液能够显著降低IL-1β，IL-6，AGEs含量，显著促进FLG，AQP3，SOD和Col-1表达，且相较于蚕丝丝肽能更显著抑制IL-6和AGEs表达，更显著促进HDF细胞迁移和SOD合成，而相较于嗜热栖热菌发酵液能更显著降低IL-1β，IL-6和AGEs表达，更显著促进AQP3表达、HDF细胞迁移和SOD的合成，即认为蚕丝丝肽发酵液相较于单一的蚕丝丝肽和嗜热栖热菌发酵液具备抗炎、屏障保湿及抗衰功效的增效作用。 In order to study the synergistic effects of silk peptide fermented by thermophilus on skin anti- inflammatory, barrier moisturizing and anti-aging activities, silk peptides thermophilus fermentation was prepared referring to the method of microbial fermentation, and lipopolysaccharide （LPS） -induced keratinocytes （HaCaT cells） and hydrogen peroxide （H2O2） -induced fibroblasts （HDF cells） were used as research models. The inhibition rates of cell proliferation, the contents of interleukin 1β （IL-1β）, interleukin 6 （IL-6）, aquaporin 3 （AQP3）, filaggrin （FLG）, superoxide dismutase （SOD）, advanced glycosylation end products （AGEs） and human collagen I alpha 1 （COL-1） were detected by colorimetric assay, enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay （ELISA）, et al. The results show that silk peptide fermentation can significantly reduce the expression of IL-1β, IL-6 and AGEs, and can significantly promote the expression of FLG, AQP3, SOD and COL-1. Especially the silk peptide fermentation can more significantly inhibit the expression of IL-6 and AGEs, and can more significantly promote the migration of HDF cells and SOD synthesis than the single silk peptide. And also the silk peptide fermentation can more significantly reduce the expression of IL-1β, IL-6 and AGEs, and can more significantly promote the expression of AQP3, HDF cell migration and SOD synthesis than the single fermentation of thermophilic bacteria. Compared with the single silk peptide and the fermentation of thermophilus, the silk peptide fermentation has obvious synergistic effects of anti-inflammatory, barrier moisturizing and anti-aging activities. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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望春花（M. biondi）花提取物缓解UVB导致皮肤损伤的作用研究 The study of Magnolia biondii flower extract in relieving UVB-induced skin damage 黄芳, 张营, 熊玥, 周利丹, 卢伊娜 2023 (9):  1065-1072.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.010 摘要 ( 159 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(4138KB) ( 118 )   富含木兰脂素的望春花（M. biondi）花提取物（MB）被用来研究其缓解紫外线导致的皮肤损伤作用。在中波紫外线（UVB）诱导的人永生化表皮细胞（HaCaT）和以UVB诱导的HaCaT细胞培养上清液作为刺激物诱导的血管内皮细胞（HUVEC）上，通过免疫荧光染色、酶联免疫吸附法检测细胞损伤下的不同关键指标的变化。结果显示，HaCaT细胞经UVB照射后16~72 h，环丁烷嘧啶二聚体（CPD）产生量显著升高，高迁移率族蛋白B1（HMGB1）表达上升，且逐步从细胞核迁移至细胞质，热休克家族蛋白27（Hsp27）表达量也上升，同时白介素6（IL-6）、白介素8（IL-8）、前列腺素E2（PGE-2）的表达量显著增加。而HaCaT细胞培养上清液刺激HUVEC细胞24 h后，内皮素-1（ET-1）、细胞间粘附分子-1（ICAM-1）表达量均显著升高。0.1%~0.5%的MB同步处理下，可显著抑制HaCaT细胞中CPD的产生量、HMGB1的表达量，减少HMGB1的核转移，促进Hsp27的表达，降低细胞因子的表达量，同时可显著减少HUVEC细胞中的ET-1，ICAM-1表达量。因此，MB可通过降低DNA损伤，减少HMGB1的合成与核转移，减少细胞因子表达量，降低血管通透性，来缓解皮肤受到紫外线照射后的损伤作用。 Magnolia biondii flower extract （MB）, which is rich in magnoliol was used to study its efficacy on alleviating UVB-induced skin damage. Immunofluorescence staining and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay were applied to detect different key biomarkers on UVB-induced keratinocytes （HaCaT） and vascular endothelial cells （HUVEC）, which induced by HaCaT cell culture supernatant after UVB stimulated for 48 h. The results show that the levels of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer （CPD） and high mobility group box protein B1 （HMGB1） increase significantly in HaCaT cells from 16 h to 72 h after UVB irradiation, and also HMGB1 is gradually migrated from the nucleus to the cytoplasm. The expression of heat shock family protein 27 （Hsp27） also increases, as well as the cytokines such as interleukin 6 （IL-6）, interleukin 8 （IL-8）, and prostaglandin E2 （PGE-2）. Meanwhile, the expression levels of endothelin-1 （ET-1） and intercellular adhesion molecule-1 （ICAM-1） are significantly increased after HUVEC cells stimulated by cell culture supernatant for 24 h. Under the synchronous treatment of 0.1%-0.5% MB, the levels of CPD and HMGB1 in HaCaT cells are significantly inhibited, with an increase expression of Hsp27, and a decreased of the nuclear transfer of HMGB1 and cytokines. In HUVEC cells, the expression levels of ET-1and ICAM-1 are also significantly inhibited after MB treatment. Therefore, MB can alleviate the damage of skin after UV irradiation by reducing DNA damage, reducing the synthesis and nuclear transfer of HMGB1, and inhibiting the expression of cytokines and vascular permeability. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

专论与综述

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阿魏酸皮肤生理作用及其化妆品包载技术研究进展 Research progress in skin physiological effects and its cosmetic encapsulation technology of ferulic acid 熊洁, 杨丹, 孟宏, 何一凡, 裴晓静 2023 (9):  1073-1079.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.011 摘要 ( 159 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(1259KB) ( 140 )   阿魏酸具有美白、抗衰、防晒等良好的皮肤生理作用，可作为一种功效原料应用到化妆品中。目前阿魏酸在医药、食品和农业等领域中应用广泛，在化妆品领域还处在研究发展阶段。本文主要从阿魏酸的皮肤生理作用出发，阐述了阿魏酸美白、抗衰、抗氧化等生理活性及其良好的应用前景。但由于阿魏酸在水中的溶解度差，性质不稳定，在化妆品中的应用受到了限制，为此很多研究者用多种方法来改善阿魏酸的应用性。其中，包载技术是将阿魏酸包裹起来添加到化妆品中，不仅能够提高阿魏酸的溶解度，还提高了它在化妆品配方中的配伍性。本文总结归纳了几种常用的包载技术，包括磷脂复合物、纳米乳、环糊精包合物、水凝胶、分子笼等，为阿魏酸在化妆品中的研发和应用提供重要参考。 Ferulic acid has good skin physiology effects such as whitening, anti-aging and sun protection, and can be used as a raw material in cosmetics. At present, ferulic acid is widely used in medicine and food, and it is still in the research and development stage in cosmetics. This review mainly elaborated the physiological activities of ferulic acid such as whitening, anti-aging, sunscreen and its application in cosmetics. Due to the poor solubility in water and the unstable properties of ferulic acid, its application in cosmetics is limited. For this reason, many efforts have been made to improve the applicability of ferulic acid. Among them, the encapsulation technology is to wrap ferulic acid and then apply it to cosmetics, which can not only improve the solubility of ferulic acid, but also increase the compatibility of ferulic acid in cosmetic formulations. This paper summarizes several commonly used encapsulation technologies, including phospholipid complexes, nanoemulsion, cyclodextrin inclusion complexes, hydrogels, molecular cages, etc., which provide significant references for the development and application of ferulic acid in cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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化妆品原料管理和原料安全信息报送制度探讨 Discussion of cosmetic ingredient management and regulatory system of cosmetic ingredient safety information submission 何淼, 苏哲, 胡康, 张凤兰, 王钢力, 路勇 2023 (9):  1080-1086.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.012 摘要 ( 128 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(1050KB) ( 106 )   为落实《化妆品监督管理条例》要求，提高化妆品原料管理和安全性评价水平，国家药品监督管理局结合配套法规文件制修订和信息化建设工作，建立起化妆品原料安全信息报送制度。围绕此项工作，对旧法规背景下的化妆品原料管理概况和有关问题进行分析，对新法规体系下的化妆品原料管理思路和有关工作情况进行介绍，对化妆品原料安全信息报送的设计初衷和制度安排进行了阐述，并结合实际运行情况，就原料组成拆分原则、组分典型值/目标值和范围值、原料安全信息变更、原料安全信息文件签章等行业普遍关注的重点问题展开讨论，以期对行业提供技术参考。 In order to implement the Regulations on Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics （CSAR） and to improve the ingredient management and safety evaluation level of cosmetics, the National Medical Products Administration （NMPA） has established a system for submitting safety information of cosmetic ingredients, in combination with the drafting and revision of the supporting laws and regulations and the work of information system construction. Focused on this work, the authors analyze the general situation and related issues of the cosmetic ingredient management under the previous background of regulation and supervision, and introduce the general thoughts and arrangement under the new regulatory system of CSAR, so as to explain in detail the whole design and mechanisms of the safety information submission of cosmetic ingredients. Finally, based on practical feedback, the authors also discuss some key issues of common concern in the industry, such as the principle of composition identification and division, the concept of typical value/target value and range value of components, change of ingredient safety information, and the signature requirement of ingredient safety information documents. With these discussions, the work of safety information submission of cosmetic ingredients is reviewed and summarized, and some technical suggestions can also be provided. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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网络药理学研究现状及在化妆品领域应用展望 Research status of network pharmacology and its application prospect in the field of cosmetics 孙锦月, 何聪芬 2023 (9):  1087-1093.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.013 摘要 ( 167 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1773KB) ( 128 )   网络药理学的出现是当前人工智能和大数据时代发展的结果，对医药领域疾病的治疗和新药的研发起着十分重要的作用，但未有关于网络药理学在化妆品领域中的相关应用研究。本文从药理学及中医药研究、复杂性疾病揭示、药物创制等几个方面回顾和梳理了网络药理学应用研究的发展现状，并对未来网络药理学在化妆品植物功效原料的选择、化妆品功效性评价、化妆品安全性评价三方面提出了应用设想。 The emergence of cyberpharmacology is the result of the current development of artificial intelligence and big data era, which plays a very important role in the treatment of diseases and the development of new drugs in the field of medicine, and is currently mainly used to reveal the mechanism of action of drugs in the body to treat diseases and guide the use of drugs. The mechanism of action on the skin is similar to the action of Chinese medicine on the body in the field of medicine, but there is no research on the application of network pharmacology in the field of cosmetics. In this paper, we review the current development of applied research in cyberpharmacology from the aspects of pharmacology and Chinese medicine research, complex disease discovery, and drug creation, and propose the future application of cyberpharmacology in the selection of cosmetic botanical efficacy ingredients, cosmetic efficacy evaluation, and cosmetic safety evaluation. It is pointed out that skin-related targets, such as sensitive skin-related inflammatory targets: TNF-α, IL-1α, IL-1β, IL-8, TRPV1; whitening-related targets: TYR, TRP-1, TRP-2; acne-related anti-inflammatory and antibacterial targets, etc., can be used to screen herbal ingredients for cosmetic products and guide the development of formulations to achieve precise skin care. Network pharmacology can also be applied to the phyto-effective ingredients in the existing formulations to explore the mechanism of action, efficacy evaluation and safety evaluation. This paper presents insights and operational steps for the application of network pharmacology in the above aspects, with the aim of providing new scientific and technological support for the development of cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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视觉效应下日用护肤品包装元素优化设计方法 Optimal design method for packaging elements of daily skin care products under visual effects 顾薇薇 2023 (9):  1094-1100.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.014 摘要 ( 91 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF(1453KB) ( 70 )   为提高日用护肤品包装视觉效果，研究视觉效应下日用护肤品包装元素优化设计方法，利用视觉效应理念优化日用护肤品包装元素设计。首先对视觉效应进行叙述，以说明其对消费者消费的影响。其次从色彩元素、图形元素、造型元素以及文字元素四个方面，考虑消费者的视觉效应设计日用护肤品包装；最后充分考虑统一性、对比突出性以及对称性等包装设计原则，基于元素的分离、重叠、重合等体现形式，以重复、渐变等元素体现形式的组合优化日用护肤品包装设计。结果表明，所提方法具有有效性，可提升化妆品包装视觉效果。以期通过日用护肤品包装为消费者带来愉悦的购物感受以及良好的视觉效应。 To improve the visual effect of daily skincare packaging, research is conducted on the optimization design method of packaging elements for daily skincare products under visual effects. Firstly, describe the visual effects to illustrate their impact on consumers’ consumption behavior. Secondly, from four aspects: color elements, graphic elements, styling elements, and textual elements, consider the visual effects of consumers to design daily skincare product packaging. Finally, fully consider the principles of packaging design such as uniformity, contrastive prominence, and symmetry, and optimize the packaging design of daily skincare products through the combination of elements such as separation, overlap, and overlay. The results indicate that the proposed method is effective and can improve the visual effect of cosmetic packaging. It aims to bring consumers a pleasant shopping experience and good visual effect through packaging of daily skincare products. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

分析与检测

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牙膏去除外源性色斑功效评价方法的标准化研究 Study on the standardization of evaluation for the efficacy of toothpaste in extrinsic stain removal 王继才, 简锐东, 谢宇, 陈晓斌, 周艺, 谭建华 2023 (9):  1101-1107.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.015 摘要 ( 120 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1167KB) ( 63 )   建立了一种评价牙膏去除外源性色斑功效的标准化体外测试方法。以牛牙作为底物，L*a*b*色空间作为牙齿颜色的评价体系，通过染色-刷磨-测试的流程对牙膏样品的去除外源性色斑效果进行测定。对方法的关键参数进行系统优化，最终确定染色后L*值[40，50]区间的牛牙，使用L8-Ⅱ刷磨仪配套平型的中毛牙刷，刷磨频率100 次/min进行600次刷磨等方法条件，建立了标准化的测试方法。结果表明该方法能有效区分不同配方样品间的差异，实验批次间相对标准偏差（RSD）小于10%，结果重现性较好。该方法具有成本低、实验周期短、操作简单等特点，为牙膏美白去渍的功效宣称提供可靠、科学的技术支撑。 A standardized in vitro method was established to evaluate the efficacy of toothpaste in extrinsic stain removal. Using bovine incisors as substrates and L*a*b* color space as tooth color evaluating system, the removal effects of toothpaste samples on extrinsic stains were determined through the process of dyeing-brushing-testing. The critical parameters of the method were systematically optimized. A standardized method was established in which an L8-Ⅱ brushing machine was equipped with flat medium-bristle toothbrush and the dyed bovine incisors with L* in the range of [40, 50] were chosen to be brushed for 600 times at 100 r/min. The results showed that the established method could effectively distinguish the difference between samples. The relative standard deviation （RSD） between experimental batches was less than 10% and the results were reproducible. This method was low-cost, short-period and easily operated. It might provide reliable and scientific test results for the efficacy of whitening and stain-removed toothpastes. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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超高效液相色谱法测定口腔护理产品中异噻唑啉酮类含量 Determination of thiazolidinones in oral care products by ultra performance liquid chromatography 宋青梅, 杜丰 2023 (9):  1108-1114.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.09.016 摘要 ( 124 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF(1075KB) ( 88 )   采用超高效液相色谱法测定口腔护理产品中异噻唑啉酮类含量。通过HyperSep反相C8/苯磺酸离子交换器（HyperSep C8/BSAIE），Sep-Pak C18吸附剂的固相萃取（SPE）及超高效液相色谱/二极管阵列检测器（UPLC/DAD）用于同时测定口腔护理产品中甲基异噻唑啉酮（MI）和甲基氯异噻唑啉酮（MCI）。结果发现，HyperSep C8/BSAIE和UPLC/DAD的洗脱溶剂为混合物（乙腈和甲醇体积比2:1），较佳检测波长为255 nm；该方法具有良好的线性范围（0.005~10 µg/mL），测定系数（R2，0.997~0.999），检测限（LOD，0.001~0.002 µg/g）；在检测低（0.07 µg/mL）、中（3 µg/mL）和高（15 µg/mL）质量浓度的标准混合物时，相对标准偏差RSD<3%。共研究了12个口腔护理样品，MI含量为nd~0.89 µg/g，MCI含量为nd~0.62 µg/g。根据样品的类型，回收率在95.33%~101.43%之间。 The purpose of this paper is to determine the content of isothiazolinones in oral care products by ultra performance liquid chromatography. A HyperSep reversed-phase C8/BSAIE ion exchanger, solid phase extraction （SPE） with Sep-Pak C18 sorbent and an ultra performance liquid chromatography/diode array detector （UPLC/DAD） were used for the simultaneous determination of methylisothiazolinone （MI） and methylchloroisothiazolinone （MCI） in oral care products. The results find that the eluting solvents for HyperSep C8/BSAIE and UPLC/DAD are mixtures （acetonitrile/methanol, volume ratio 2:1） with an optimum detection wavelength of 255 nm. The method has a good linear range （0.005-10 µg/mL）, the coefficient of determination （R2） ranges from 0.997 to 0.999, and the limit of detection （LOD） is in the range of 0.001-0.002 µg/g. The relative standard deviation RSD is less than 3% for the detection of standard mixtures at low （0.07 µg/mL）, medium （3 µg/mL） and high （15 µg/mL） concentrations. A total of 12 oral care samples are studied, with the reaching concentrations of nd-0.89 µg/g for MI and nd-0.62 µg/g for MCI. Recoveries range from 95.33% to 101.43% depending on the type of sample. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标