中国年轻女性油性皮肤分类方法与特点研究

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.12.008

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

油性皮肤的护理是中国年轻女性普遍面临的问题之一。目前，皮肤类型的分析在很大程度上基于主观评估，文献中尚未报道基于无创性皮肤测试设备的油性皮肤分类标准。本研究基于箱形图数据分布和机器学习聚类算法，详细讨论了油性皮肤的无创、客观、定量分类方法，并与皮肤科医生经验值进行互相佐证对比。在此基础上，通过多功能探头测试仪和面部皮肤成像系统定量采集了皮肤屏障、色度、弹性、痤疮等指标数据，分析了油性皮肤的伴随特点和易感皮肤问题，明晰了中国年轻女性油性皮肤的特点，并评估了油性皮肤的痘、敏风险程度。结果显示，基于面部水油分布的箱形图分类法优于本研究中的其他两类方法，油性皮肤的伴随特点为屏障受损、肤色暗沉、弹性较差、痤疮和毛孔多，且痘肌的发生风险在油性皮肤中显著增高。

关键词: 皮肤参数, 易感问题, 地域分布, 风险程度, 油性皮肤护理

Abstract:

Oily skincare is one of the common problems confronting young Chinese females. Currently, skin type characterization is largely based on self-reports and qualitative assessments by dermatologists. Quantitative classification approach for oily skin totally based on the non-invasive skin measurement devices has not been reported in the literatures. In this study, based on box-plot data and machine learning clustering algorithms for 2000 Chinese female subjects （mean aged 25.90±2.61）, non-invasive, objective, and quantitative classification approach for oily skin were initially established and compared with dermatologists’ empirical results for mutual corroboration. On this basis, this study quantitatively collected data on skin barrier, chromaticity, elasticity, acne and other indicators through a multifunctional probe tester and a facial skin imaging system, analyzed the accompanying characteristics of oily skin and susceptible skin problems, clarified the characteristics of oily skin in young Chinese females, and evaluated the risk level of acne and sensitivity of oily skin, with a view to providing scientific care and guidance for Chinese young females with oily skin groups. The results show that the box-plot classification method based on facial hydro-oil distribution is superior to the other two types of methods. The accompanying characteristics of oily skin are poor barrier, dull complexion, less elasticity, more acne and pores. In addition, the risk of acne-prone skin is significantly higher in oily skin based on odds ratio.

Key words: skin parameters, susceptibility, geographical distribution, odds ratio, oily skincare

中图分类号:

TQ658

杨笑笑, 颜欢, 尹雅婷, 易帆. 中国年轻女性油性皮肤分类方法与特点研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(12): 1412-1420.

Xiaoxiao Yang, Huan Yan, Yating Yin, Fan Yi. A study on the classification approach and characteristics of oily skin in young Chinese females[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(12): 1412-1420.

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指标及英文缩写	测试设备及规格形号	测试原理
皮肤水分含量（CM）	Corneometer CM 825	通过CORNEOMETER电容法进行皮肤水分含量的测定
经皮水分散失量（TEWL）	Tewamater TM300	利用扩散原理来测量邻近皮肤表面水分蒸汽压的变化
皮脂分泌量（SM）	Sebumeter SM815	通过光度计测定原理SEBUMETER法进行皮脂分泌量的测定
皮肤酸碱度（pH）	Skin-pH-Meter PH905	通过氢离子（H⁺）半透膜进行酸碱度pH值的测定
黑色素含量（MEXA）血红素含量（ERYTH）	Mexameter MX18	基于RGB光谱吸收原理，通过测定特定波长光的反射量从而进行指标测定
肤色（ITA°）	Colorimeter CL400	基于CIE L^-a^-b^*色度系统测量皮肤颜色的变化
皮肤弹性（R2）	Cutometer dual MPA580	基于吸力/拉伸原理，通过光学系统测定皮肤被吸进探头内深度反映皮肤弹性
色斑（Spots）	—	基于算法提取VISIA-CR（美国Canfield公司）正面交叉偏振光图片的总色斑个数
痤疮（Acne）	—	基于算法提取VISIA-CR（美国Canfield公司）正面交叉偏振光图片的总痤疮个数
毛孔（Pores）	—	基于算法提取VISIA-CR（美国Canfield公司）正面交叉偏振光图片的总毛孔个数
鲍曼问卷分数（BSSQ）	—	鲍曼问卷中敏感相关部分的量表统计数据，BSSQ≥30被认为是敏感性皮肤

皮肤参数	平均值±标准差		P值
皮肤参数	多油人群	总人群	P值
CM	55.16±11.13	59.49±11.80	<0.001
TEWL	15.31± 3.92	14.94± 4.00	0.028
L^*	64.67± 2.93	65.47± 3.14	<0.001
b^*	11.36± 1.80	12.15± 2.20	<0.001
MEXA	170.72±26.30	161.95±27.11	<0.001
ERYTH	311.35±55.09	294.61±56.15	<0.001
R2	0.60± 0.09	0.64± 0.10	<0.001
Pores	76.28±39.20	63.77±36.57	<0.001
Acne	18.51±10.44	16.17±10.67	<0.001
Spots	39.62±30.35	46.21±33.21	<0.001
BSSQ	29.89± 7.52	29.24± 6.41	0.428

皮肤参数	平均值±标准差		P值
皮肤参数	油性皮肤	中性皮肤	P值
CM	61.07± 6.75	65.57± 8.27	<0.001
SM	134.59±36.53	54.00±21.74	<0.001
TEWL	14.67± 3.06	14.17± 3.55	0.002
pH	5.51± 0.49	5.45± 0.49	0.054
MEXA	170.15±24.62	158.81±26.49	<0.001
ERYTH	310.15±57.29	287.77±55.42	<0.001
L^*	63.99± 2.18	64.57± 1.89	0.001
b^*	11.35± 1.80	12.37± 2.33	<0.001
R2	0.61± 0.08	0.66± 0.10	<0.001
Pore	75.45±40.87	58.50±34.25	<0.001
Acne	17.59± 9.63	15.50±10.45	<0.001
Spots	39.15±25.38	47.53±30.78	<0.001
BSSQ	30.03± 7.72	29.29± 6.09	0.573

分类方法	肤质	痘肌	非痘肌	OR （95% CI）	敏感肌	非敏感肌	OR （95% CI）
箱型图	油性	36	298	1.503 （1.011~2.232）^*	150	184	1.223 （0.963~1.553）
	混合性	24	137	2.179 （1.356~3.502）^*	67	94	1.069 （0.769~1.487）
	其他	112	1 393	1	602	903	1
聚类	油性	60	435	1.716 （1.231~2.390）^*	217	278	1.171 （0.954~1.438）
聚类	非油性	112	1 393	1	602	903	1
经验值	油性	51	396	1.524 （1.079~2.153）^*	209	238	1.358 （1.098~1.678）^*
经验值	非油性	121	1 432	1	610	943	1