化妆品植物原料（Ⅱ）——抑制酪氨酸酶活性的植物美白原料的研究与开发

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.03.002

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

黑色素是导致人类皮肤和头发色素沉着的主要因素。酪氨酸酶是黑色素生物合成途径的关键酶。其中抑制酪氨酸酶是减少皮肤黑色素产生的主要策略之一。文章介绍了黑色素的生物合成途径、蘑菇酪氨酸酶与人酪氨酸酶的区别、酪氨酸酶抑制机理以及抑制酪氨酸酶活性的植物提取物和单体成分。抑制酪氨酸酶活性的植物成分通常为含有苯环或酚羟基结构的化合物,主要包括对苯二酚类、苯甲醛和苯甲酸酯类、苯乙素类、苯丙素类、二苯乙烯类、黄酮、多酚和醌类化合物。并对一些植物成分的结构和酪氨酸酶抑制活性的相关性进行阐述,希望能为相关研究工作者提供帮助。

关键词: 植物提取物, 美白化妆品, 蘑菇酪氨酸酶, 人酪氨酸酶, 抑制剂

Abstract:

Melanogenesis is a primary cause responsible for the pigmentation of human skin and hair. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanin biosynthetic pathway. Inhibition of tyrosinase activity is one of the main strategies to reduce the formation of melanin in the skin. Here we reviewed the melanin biosynthetic pathway, the differences between mushroom tyrosinase （mTYR） and human tyrosinase （hTYR）, mechamisms of tyrosinase inhibition, and the plant extracts and monomer components that inhibit tyrosinase activity. The active plant components that inhibit tyrosinases include hydroquinone and its derivatives, benzaldehyde and benzoate derivatives, phenethyls, phenylpropanoids, stilbenes and their derivatives, flavonoids, polyphenols and quinones, which contain the benzene ring or phenolic hydroxy group in their structures. The correlation between the structure of tyrosinase inhibitors from plant extracts and tyrosinase inhibitory activity was discussed, hoping to provide help for relevant researches.

Key words: plant extracts, skin whitening cosmetics, mushroom tyrosinase, human tyrosinase, inhibitors

中图分类号:

TQ658

任倩倩,吴华,金建明. 化妆品植物原料（Ⅱ）——抑制酪氨酸酶活性的植物美白原料的研究与开发[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(3): 178-185.

REN Qian-qian,WU Hua,JIN Jian-ming. Botanical cosmetic ingredient （Ⅱ）Research and development of tyrosinase inhibitors from plant extracts in skin whitening[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(3): 178-185.

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抑制常数	抑制剂	对蘑菇酪氨酸酶的抑制值/（μmol·L^-1）	对人酪氨酸酶的抑制值/（μmol·L^-1）	参考文献
K_i	曲酸	4.3	350	[12]
	苯甲酸	4.6	520	[12]
	1-氧代-2-羟基吡啶	1.8	128	[13]
IC₅₀	曲酸	6.0	500	[14]
	对苯二酚	1.1	4 400	[14]
	β-熊果苷	40	6 500	[14]
	间苯二酚	652	>3 000	[14]
	4-N-丁基间苯二酚	0.6	21	[14]
	4-己基间苯二酚	1.2	94	[14]
	二甲氧基甲苯基-4-丙基间苯二酚	0.24	无活性	[14]
	6,7-二羟基香豆素	4.3	无活性	[12]