化妆品植物原料（I）——在防晒化妆品中的研究与开发

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2021.01.002

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

过度暴露在紫外辐射下会造成肤色加深、晒伤和光老化,增加患皮肤癌的风险等危害。防晒霜的使用对于减少这种伤害非常有用。而有机防晒剂容易引发皮肤过敏,无机防晒剂易造成使用肤感不佳和吸入性危害。因此,更安全的具有光防护效果的植物提取物正在被广泛地探索。文章介绍了紫外辐射引起的皮肤晒伤和光老化,以及抵御紫外辐射对皮肤伤害的植物提取物。这些植物提取物的有效成分为含有苯环或共轭结构的化合物,如黄酮、苯丙素、多酚和类胡萝卜素。文章对它们进行详细的阐述,希望能为天然防晒化妆品的发展做出贡献。

关键词: 植物提取物, 防晒化妆品, 紫外辐射, 光防护, 抗氧化

Abstract:

Excessive exposure to the ultraviolet radiation can cause dark skin color, sunburn and light aging, and can increase the risk of skin cancer. The use of sunscreen cosmetics can be very useful in reducing such injury. However, organic sunscreen agents tend to be allergenic, while inorganic sunscreen agents make people feel bad and have inhalation hazard. Therefore, plant extracts with sunscreening effect are being widely explored. The main mechanism of UV damage to the skin are sunburn and photoaging. The plant extracts that can be used in sunscreen cosmetics have been introduced. The effective components in plant extracts include flavonoids, phenylpropanoids, polyphenols and carotenoids which contain the benzene ring or conjugated structure. The article elaborates on them in detail, hoping to contribute to the development of natural sunscreen cosmetics.

Key words: plant extract, sunscreen cosmetics, ultraviolet radiation, light protection, antioxidant

中图分类号:

TQ658

任倩倩,孙旭,李楠,吴华,金建明. 化妆品植物原料（I）——在防晒化妆品中的研究与开发[J]. 日用化学工业, 2021, 51(1): 10-16.

REN Qian-qian,SUN Xu,LI Nan,WU Hua,JIN Jian-ming. Botanical cosmetic ingredients （I） Research and development in sunscreen cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2021, 51(1): 10-16.

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中文名称	拉丁名	提取部位	防晒机理	参考文献
水飞蓟	Silybum marianum	种子	UVA光保护,减少UVA刺激产生的ROS,提高谷胱甘肽,降低caspase-3和MMP-1水平	[13]
黄芩	Scutellaria radix	根	高紫外吸收和抗氧化活性,降低紫外诱导的HACAT细胞死亡。与氧化锌复配协同提高SPF值	[14]
甘草	Glycyrrhiza uralensis	根	减少UVA辐射的人真皮成纤维细胞损伤及提高中性粒细胞的谷胱甘肽,降低ROS,抑制UV诱导的COX-2表达	[15]
草莓	Fragaria ananassa	果实	光防护作用,减少UVA辐射引起的皮肤损伤和DNA损伤,抑制胶原合成和炎症反应,提高细胞活力	[17]
血橙	Citrus sinensis varieties	果实	修护晒伤,保护DNA损伤,清除自由基,抑制黄嘌呤氧化酶活性,抗脂质过氧化	[18]
蝶豆	Clitoria ternatea	花	保护紫外诱导的人角质形成细胞线粒体DNA损伤	[19]

中文名称	拉丁名	提取部位	防晒机理	参考文献
巴西棕榈	Copernicia Cerifera	叶蜡质	吸收UVB,与TiO₂复配显著提高SPF	[11]
可可	Theobroma cacao	豆荚	吸收UVB,抗光老化,抗氧化和酪氨酸酶抑制作用	[26]
迷迭香	Rosmarinus officinalis	叶	抗光老化（通过抑制UV诱导金属基质蛋白酶1）	[27]
巴戟天	Morinda citrifolia	叶、果实	减少UVB诱导产生的红斑,减轻紫外对皮肤的损伤,抗氧化作用	[28]
刺山柑	Capparis spinosa	果实	防晒,抑制红斑产生	[29]

中文名称	拉丁名	提取部位	防晒机理	参考文献
藤黄	Garcinia brasiliensis	外果皮	吸收UVA/UVB,降低UVB导致的皮肤损伤,协同提高防晒剂的SPF	[36]
欧洲接骨木	Sambucus nigra	果实	单一植物提取物SPF一般,混合提取物的配方有较高的SPF和PF-UVA值,增强对UVA和UVB的光防护作用	[37]
扁桃	Prunus amygdalus	杏仁	抵御紫外线对皮肤的损伤,减少脂质过氧化水平和增加谷胱甘肽水平,抗氧化作用	[38]
何首乌	Polygonum multiflorum	根	抵御UVB引起的皮肤损伤,抗氧化作用	[39]
姜黄	Curcuma longa	根	通过抑制UVB诱导的TNF-α mRNA和MMP-1表达以及NF-JB活化产生抗光老化作用;通过抑制NF-JB和MAPK信号通路,减少一氧化氮合酶和COX-2的表达产生抗炎作用	[40]