化妆品纳米原料物料属性及其功效相关性

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.05.013

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

随着纳米技术的发展，化妆品产业中纳米原料的应用也愈加广泛。文章基于欧盟法规中收录的化妆品纳米原料，结合欧盟消费者安全委员会（SCCS）的评估工作，重点总结了三联苯基三嗪、氧化锌、炭黑、二氧化钛、亚甲基双-苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚等5种化妆品纳米原料的基本信息，梳理了其主要理化性质的一般表征方法及限度要求。进一步调研与化妆品纳米原料具有显著相关性的理化性质，以期明确影响化妆品纳米原料质量的关键物料属性，为相关产品的质量控制提供有益帮助。

关键词: 纳米原料, 化妆品, 理化检测, 欧盟消费者安全科学委员会

Abstract:

With the growth of nanotechnology, using nanomaterials in the cosmetics industry is becoming more common. Based on the cosmetic nanomaterials included in European Union regulations and the evaluation work of the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety （SCCS）, this paper summarizes the essential information of five cosmetic nanomaterials, including 1, 3, 5-Triazine, 2, 4, 6-tris[1, 1’-biphenyl]-4-yl-, zinc oxide, carbon black, titanium dioxide, and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol. It compares the general characterization methods and limit requirements of their primary physicochemical properties. To identify the critical material characteristics that affect the quality of cosmetic nanomaterials and to offer helpful assistance for quality control of the related products, additional investigation of the physicochemical properties that have significant relevance to cosmetic nanomaterials is conducted.

Key words: nanomaterial, cosmetics, physical and chemical specifications, Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety

中图分类号:

TQ658

陈琼, 张铮, 苏哲, 王钢力, 涂家生, 孙春萌. 化妆品纳米原料物料属性及其功效相关性[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(5): 588-595.

Qiong Chen, Zheng Zhang, Zhe Su, Gangli Wang, Jiasheng Tu, Chunmeng Sun. Correlation of cosmetic nanomaterials attributes and their efficacy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2024, 54(5): 588-595.

图/表 1

表1

5种化妆品纳米原料的物理化学性质表征方法和限度要求"

纳米原料名称	物理化学性质	表征方法	限度要求
三联苯基三嗪	纯度和杂质，颗粒尺寸，均匀性和稳定性，紫外吸收	高效液相色谱（High Performance Liquid Chromatography，HPLC），液相色谱-质谱联用（Liquid Chromatography Coupled with Mass Spectrometry，LC-MS），扫描电子显微镜（Scanning Electron Microscopy，SEM），紫外-可见分光光度法（Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy，UV-vis）	初级粒子中值粒径>80 nm；纯度≥98%；无涂层
氧化锌	溶解度，颗粒尺寸，晶体结构，均匀性和稳定性，Zeta电位，紫外吸收	电感耦合等离子质谱（Inductively Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometry，ICP-MS），原子吸收光谱法（Atomic Absorption Spectroscopy，AAS），动态光散射（Dynamic Light Scattering，DLS），透射电子显微镜（Transmission Electron Microscopy，TEM），扫描电子显微镜（Scanning Electron Microscopy，SEM），X射线衍射法（X-Ray Diffraction，XRD），紫外-可见分光光度法（Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy，UV-vis），激光多普勒电泳法（Laser Doppler Electrophoresis，LDE）	纯度≥96%，具有纤锌矿结构，外观呈棒状、星状和/或等距形状的团块，杂质仅包括二氧化碳和水，任何其他杂质的总量<1%；颗粒数量分布的中值粒径D₅₀（小于此粒径的颗粒数量为50%）>30 nm，D₁（小于于此粒径的颗粒数量为1%）>20 nm；水溶性<50 mg/L；无涂层或三乙氧基丙烯酰硅烷、聚二甲基硅氧烷、二甲氧基二苯基硅烷-三乙氧基丙烯酰硅烷交联聚合物或辛基三乙氧基硅烷涂层
炭黑	颗粒尺寸	动态光散射（Dynamic Light Scattering，DLS），静态光散射（Static Light Scattering，SLS），透射电子显微镜（Transmission Electron Microscopy，TEM）	纯度>97%，杂质情况如下：灰分含量≤0.15%，总硫≤0.65%，总多环芳烃≤500 μg/kg，苯并（a）芘≤5 μg/kg，二苯并（a, h）蒽≤5 μg/kg，总砷≤3 mg/kg，总铅≤10 mg/kg，以及总汞≤1 mg/kg；初级粒子尺寸≥20 nm
二氧化钛	颗粒尺寸，晶体结构，紫外吸收	差分离心沉降法（Differential Sedimentation Analysis，DCS），整体沉降分析（Integral Sedimentation Analysis），动态光散射（Dynamic Light Scattering，DLS），透射电子显微镜（Transmission Electron Microscopy，TEM），X射线衍射法（X-Ray Diffraction，XRD），紫外-可见分光光度法（Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy，UV-vis）	纯度≥99%；金红石型或金红石中含有5%的锐钛矿，外观为球形、针形或披针形的团块，基于数量分布的中值粒径≥30 nm，长宽比为1~4.5，体积比表面积≤460 m²/cm³；二氧化硅、水合二氧化硅、氧化铝、氢氧化铝、硬脂酸铝、硬脂酸、三甲氧基丙烯基硅烷、甘油、聚二甲基硅氧烷、氢聚二甲基硅氧烷、硅氧烷涂层；与相应的无涂层或无掺杂的材料相比，光催化活性≤10%，在最终配方中具有光稳定性
亚甲基双-苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚	纯度和杂质，颗粒尺寸，均匀性和稳定性，Zeta电位，紫外吸收	高效液相色谱仪-二级管阵列检测（High Performance Liquid Chromatography with Diode Array Detector，HPLC-DAD），液相色谱-质谱联用（Liquid Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry，LC-MS），热脱附结合气相色谱-质谱联用（Thermal Desorption coupled with Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry，TD-GC-MS），电感耦合等离子体发射光谱法（Inductively Coupled Plasma Optical Emission Spectrometer，ICP-OES），光纤准光弹性散射技术（Fiber-Optic Quasi-Elastic Light Scattering，FOQELS），扫描电子显微镜（Scanning Electron Microscopy，SEM），高效液相色谱-紫外检测（High Performance Liquid Chromatography with UV Detection，HPLC-UV），电声光谱系统（Electroacoustic Spectroscopy），紫外-可见分光光度法（Ultraviolet-Visible Spectroscopy，UV-vis）	纯度≥98.5%，其中2，2’-亚甲基双-（6（2H-苯并三唑-2-基）-4-（异辛基）苯酚）异构体不超过1.5%；25 ℃时水中溶解度<5 ng/L；分配系数（Log Pow）：25 ℃时为12.7；无涂层；中值粒径D₅₀（小于该粒径的颗粒占50%）：质量分布≥120 nm和/或数量分布≥60 nm

表1

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