关键词: 人参皂苷Rg3, 制备工艺, 多维细胞模型, 化妆品

Abstract:

Innovatively, a ginseng extract enriched with high concentration of ginsenoside Rg3 was prepared by screening suitable acid catalysts as well as acid content, hydrolysis temperature and hydrolysis time. The repair of H₂O₂-induced cell damage experiment and the inflammatory factor TNF-α release detection experiment were used to verify the cellular efficacy of ginseng extract rich in high concentration of ginsenoside Rg3. The skin trans epidermal water loss detection and 3D heme concentration detection were used to explore its cosmetics efficacy. The results of process optimization show that DL-tartaric acid is preferred as the acid catalyst. When the acid content is 5%, the hydrolysis temperature is 80 ℃, and the hydrolysis time is 2 h, the conversion efficiency of ginsenoside Rg3 is the highest, reaching 64.91 mg/g. The results of the repair of H₂O₂-induced cell damage experiment and the detection of the secretion of inflammatory factor TNF-α show that ginseng extract richen with high mass concentration of ginsenoside Rg3 at the dose of 6.25~100 μg/mL has the effect of repairing H₂O₂-induced cell damage and inhibiting the secretion of TNF-α with a dose-dependent relationship. The results of the human efficacy evaluation test show that compared with the placebo group, the experiment group with 0.5% ginseng extract reduces the skin transdermal water loss rate and heme content by 16.39% and 6.14%, respectively. It means that the high concentration ginsenoside Rg3 ginseng extract has a certain cosmetic efficacy of skin barrier repair and skin redness relieving. In general, ginseng extract with high concentration of ginsenoside Rg3 can be used as a safe and effective skin care raw material in the field of cosmetics, and has a good application prospect.

Key words: ginsenoside Rg3, preparation technology, multidimensional cell models, cosmetic