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2023年, 第53卷, 第1期　刊出日期：2023-01-22 上一期    下一期

基础研究

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低泡表面活性剂AMEO的合成及性能研究 Synthesis and properties of low-foaming surfactant AMEO 王文杰, 孙永强, 周婧洁, 孙晋源, 梁慧斌, 刘瑜琦 2023 (1):  1-7.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.001 摘要 ( 261 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF(1399KB) ( 224 )   以壬二酸二单乙醇酰胺为原料，通过乙氧基化反应合成了一系列具有不同氧乙烯含量的壬二酸二单乙醇酰胺聚氧乙烯醚（AMEO-p，p=30，40，50，60，70）低泡型表面活性剂。通过红外谱图证明合成了目标产物，并测定了实际氧乙烯含量，其结果与理论氧乙烯含量基本一致。测试了系列AMEO-p的润湿性，去污性，泡沫性等应用性能，优选出润湿性能好，去污力强，泡沫低的AMEO-50表面活性剂。并对其表面性质与物化性能进行了系统研究。结果表明，AMEO-50的临界胶束浓度为0.5 g/L，平衡表面张力为31.21 mN/m。其质量浓度的增加会导致动态表面张力达到平衡的时间缩短，且表面张力降低的速率增快。另外AMEO-50可以与水任意比例互溶，无凝胶相区，具有高浊点，低凝固点的特性，是一种应用温度范围广、可用于超浓缩洗涤产品配方中的低泡型表面活性剂。 A series of low-foaming surfactants with different oxyethylene content, i.e., H（OCH2CH2） xOCH2CH2NHOC（CH2） 7 CONHCH2CH2O（CH2CH2O） yH （AMEO-p, p=30, 40, 50, 60 and 70）, were synthesized by ethoxylation reaction. The target product was characterized by infrared spectroscopy, and the actual oxyethylene content was determined which was found to be in agreement with the theoretical oxyethylene content. The application properties such as wettability, detergency and foaming performance of AMEO-p were tested, and AMEO-50 was preferably selected due to its good wettability, strong detergency and low foam. The surface activity and physical and chemical properties were systematically studied. The results showed that, the relative stain removal ratio of AMEO-50 could reach 0.91 for carbon black stained cloths and 0.67 for sebum-stained cloths, and the critical micelle concentration of AMEO-50 was 0.5 g/L, at which the surface tension was 31.21 mN/m. The increase in concentration resulted in a shorter equilibrium time for the dynamic surface tension and a faster rate of surface tension reduction. In addition, AMEO-50 was miscible with water in any mixing ratio, it had high cloud point and low freezing point, it had no gel phase area, and it was a low-foaming surfactant that could be used in the formulation of ultra-concentrated detergent products with a wide range of application temperature. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

科技讲座

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头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅰ）——水分对头发性能的影响以及头发保湿锁水功效的研究 Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （I） Effects of moisture on the properties of hair and the study on moisturizing efficacy 吴雨闻, 马铃, 陈殿松, 常宽, 王靖 2023 (1):  8-15.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.002 摘要 ( 645 )   HTML ( 33 )   PDF(1486KB) ( 415 )   水分是头发的一个重要组成部分，水分子通过与角蛋白的作用以不同的赋存状态存在于头发内部。水分含量的多少及其存在形式会直接影响头发某些性能，而头发的损伤也会反过来影响头发内部水分。通过对头发水分含量、存在状态等方面的探究可以反映头发的健康/损伤状态。本文介绍了头发内部水分含量及赋存状态的表征方法，阐述了头发吸水/失水曲线的含义，分析了头发水分含量及流失速率与头发性质的关系并列举分析了市面上几种头发保湿剂及其保湿原理，以期对护发产品中保湿成分的开发和应用提供借鉴。 Moisture is important for hair. Water molecules exist in the hair in different states through the interactions with keratin. The water content and its existing form will directly affect some properties of hair, and the damage of the hair will also affect the internal moisture of the hair. The health/damage status of the hair can be reflected by exploring the moisture content of hair and the existing status. Herein, the characterization methods of hair internal moisture content and storage state were reviewed. The meaning of hair water absorption/loss curve was elucidated. The relationships between hair moisture content and loss rate and hair properties were analyzed. Several kinds of hair moisturizers and their moisturizing mechanisms were introduced. This review may provide basis for the development and application of moisturizing ingredients in hair care products. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

开发与应用

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乳化剂及增稠剂对低黏液晶乳液的影响 Influence of emulsifiers and thickener on formation of low-viscosity liquid crystal emulsions 郭芳 2023 (1):  16-23.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.003 摘要 ( 357 )   HTML ( 28 )   PDF(2211KB) ( 550 )   研究乳化剂及增稠剂对低黏度乳液及其液晶情况和喷雾效果的影响，从而筛选出适合二元气雾包装的低黏度可喷雾乳液的乳化剂及增稠剂，并通过稳定性、液晶分布、喷雾状况、功效测试对其进行初步考察。乳化剂采用糖苷类乳化剂、醇酯类乳化剂和聚甘油类乳化剂（单一使用和复配使用），研究其对乳液黏度及液晶的影响；增稠剂采用黄原胶、卡波姆、丙烯酸（酯）类/山嵛醇聚醚-25甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物、丙烯酸（酯）类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物及其组合，研究其对乳液黏度、稳定性及喷出状态的影响。实验结果表明：聚甘油类乳化剂适合制备出低黏度液晶乳液，并在气雾瓶中容易泵出且张角较大；将得到的低黏度乳液置于二元气雾包装中，乳液黏度越低，其喷雾张角越大，但黏度越低对高温稳定性及离心稳定性的挑战越大；乳化剂复配可使液晶乳化粒径更小，颗粒更均一。其所得低黏度液晶乳液涂抹于身体后，水分含量显著提高，经皮失水量（TEWL）显著降低，证明该乳液具有很好的保湿和修护效果。 The effects of emulsifiers and thickeners on low-viscosity liquid crystal emulsions and their liquid crystal and ejection in binary aerosol propellants were studied, then the stability and ejection and liquid crystal of the low-viscosity emulsions were monitored by investigating their emulsifiers and thickener. Glycoside emulsifiers, alcohol ester emulsifiers and polyglycerol emulsifiers （single use and mixed use） were used to study their effects on emulsion viscosity and liquid crystal. Xanthan gum, Carbomer, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and their combinations were used to study the effects on viscosity, the stability and ejection state of the emulsions. The results show that polyglycerol emulsifier is suitable for low-viscosity liquid crystal emulsions, in addition, it is more easily to pump out in binary aerosol propellants with large opening angle. The open angle of low-viscosity emulsions in binary aerosol propellants is wider when the viscosity is lower, however, it is very difficult to prepare low viscosity emulsions with good high temperature stability as well as excellent centrifugal stability. Thickeners play a very important role in stability. Low-viscosity and stable emulsions can be prepared by Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer combined with Xanthan gum. The liquid crystal emulsions have smaller particle size with compounding emulsifier and the formation of liquid crystals is beneficial to the stability of emulsions. When the low viscosity liquid crystal emulsion is applied to the body, the moisture content increases significantly, and the transepidermis water loss （TEWL） decreases significantly, which proves that the emulsion has good moisturizing and repairing effects. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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高浓度人参皂苷Rg3的制备及其在化妆品中的应用 Preparation of high concentration ginsenoside Rg3 and its application in cosmetics 颜少慰, 高畅, 左丽娜 2023 (1):  24-31.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.004 摘要 ( 241 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF(1635KB) ( 332 )   通过筛选合适的酸催化剂以及酸含量、水解温度和水解时间，制备了一种富含高浓度人参皂苷Rg3的人参提取物。采用细胞功效模型探究富含高浓度人参皂苷Rg3的人参提取物体外功效作用的同时，结合人体功效评价试验来进一步验证其化妆品领域应用的功效表现。结果表明：优选DL-酒石酸作为酸催化剂，当酸含量为5%，水解温度为80 ℃，水解时间为2 h时，人参皂苷Rg3的转化效率最高，达到64.91 mg/g。高浓度人参皂苷Rg3的人参提取物的细胞模型评价试验显示出其具有修护H2O2氧化应激损伤和抑制TNF-α分泌的作用。同时，结合人体功效评价试验结果来看，高浓度人参皂苷Rg3的人参提取物具有较好的修护皮肤屏障、改善皮肤泛红的功效。 Innovatively, a ginseng extract enriched with high concentration of ginsenoside Rg3 was prepared by screening suitable acid catalysts as well as acid content, hydrolysis temperature and hydrolysis time. The repair of H2O2-induced cell damage experiment and the inflammatory factor TNF-α release detection experiment were used to verify the cellular efficacy of ginseng extract rich in high concentration of ginsenoside Rg3. The skin trans epidermal water loss detection and 3D heme concentration detection were used to explore its cosmetics efficacy. The results of process optimization show that DL-tartaric acid is preferred as the acid catalyst. When the acid content is 5%, the hydrolysis temperature is 80 ℃, and the hydrolysis time is 2 h, the conversion efficiency of ginsenoside Rg3 is the highest, reaching 64.91 mg/g. The results of the repair of H2O2-induced cell damage experiment and the detection of the secretion of inflammatory factor TNF-α show that ginseng extract richen with high mass concentration of ginsenoside Rg3 at the dose of 6.25~100 μg/mL has the effect of repairing H2O2-induced cell damage and inhibiting the secretion of TNF-α with a dose-dependent relationship. The results of the human efficacy evaluation test show that compared with the placebo group, the experiment group with 0.5% ginseng extract reduces the skin transdermal water loss rate and heme content by 16.39% and 6.14%, respectively. It means that the high concentration ginsenoside Rg3 ginseng extract has a certain cosmetic efficacy of skin barrier repair and skin redness relieving. In general, ginseng extract with high concentration of ginsenoside Rg3 can be used as a safe and effective skin care raw material in the field of cosmetics, and has a good application prospect. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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基于UPLC-QTOF-MS强脉冲光照射对女性面部脂质影响 Effects of intense pulsed light irradiation on female facial lipids based on UPLC-QTOF-MS 胡艺琼, 丁文玉, 于笑乾, 田燕, 何聪芬 2023 (1):  32-40.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.005 摘要 ( 158 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(1445KB) ( 166 )   强脉冲光（IPL）是波长为（500~1 200） nm的连续、多波长的非相干性宽谱光。本研究共招募了31名女性志愿者（平均年龄（23.39±1.41）岁），在空军特色医学中心统一进行IPL半脸照射，对其IPL照射前（PI组）与照射一周后（AI组）：对角质层含水量、经表皮水分散失、皮脂含量、pH值、红斑指数、黑素指数生理指标变化进行比较分析；通过超高效液相色谱串联四极杆飞行时间质谱（UPLC-QTOF-MS）结合正交偏最小二乘判别分析（OPLS-DA）模式对PI和AI组面部皮肤表面脂质（SSL）进行分析。生理指标数据分析表明， AI组角质层含水量（P=0.024）显著增加、黑素指数（P<0.001）、红斑指数（P<0.001）显著降低，而TEWL值、pH值、皮脂含量无显著变化；面部SSL结果分析表明，一共鉴定出1 704种总脂质，筛选出60种差异性脂质。差异性脂质可分为7大类，其中有5大类脂质：脂肪酰类（fatty acids, FA）、鞘脂类（sphingolipids, SP）、固醇脂类（sterol lipids, ST）、孕烯醇酮脂类（prenol lipids, PR）、多聚乙烯类（polyketides, PK）在IPL照射前后含量差异显著，均为AI低于PI；16种亚类在IPL照射前后含量差异显著，均为AI低于PI；神经酰胺（CERs）是主要的差异性脂质，含量为AI低于PI，推测CERs含量降低与皮肤屏障受损相关，这为有脂质添加的IPL照射后护理产品研发提供新思路。 Intense pulsed light （IPL） is a continuous, multi-wavelength, incoherent broad-spectrum light with a wavelength of （500 to 1 200） nm. In this research, a total of 31 female volunteers at the age of 23.39±1.41 years were recruited to get half-face IPL irradiation at the Air Force Medical Center, PLA. Indexes as stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss （TEWL）, sebum content, pH value, erythema index and melanin index were observed and discussed, together with the analysis of facial skin surface lipid （SSL） conducted by ultra-performance liquid chromatography with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry （UPLC-QTOF-MS） combined with OPLS-DA （Orthogonal Partial Least Squares-Discriminant Analysis） mode based on samples prior of （PI） and after （AI, One week after IPL irradiation） IPL irradiation. The results indicate that water content of the stratum corneum （P=0.024） significantly increase in AI compared with PI. However, the remarkable decrease of melanin index （P<0.001） and erythema index （P<0.001） in AI is detected. And there are no sufficient changes in TEWL value, pH value, and sebum content. Additionally, a total of 1 704 lipids are detected and 60 different facial SSL lipids are further screened between PI and AI. Differential lipids are divided into 7 categories, of which 5 major types -[FA], [SP], [ST], [PR], [PK] are excessively degraded after IPL irradiation. The content of 16 subclass is significantly different between PI and AI, all of which are AI lower than PI. Ceramides （CERs） are the main differential lipids, and the content in AI is lower than PI. While the CERs levels are related to skin barrier damage. This provides new ideas for the development of lipid-added skincare products after IPL irradiation. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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改性TiO2纳米材料的制备及防晒化妆品的应用性能分析 Preparation of modified TiO2 nanomaterials and application performance analysis of sunscreen cosmetics 徐婧, 范春霞 2023 (1):  41-46.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.006 摘要 ( 208 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1602KB) ( 197 )   通过超声水解法制备了SiO2包覆的SiO2/TiO2纳米材料，研究了不同热处理温度对SiO2/TiO2纳米材料性能的影响，测试发现SiO2/TiO2纳米材料结构未发生变化，均为金红石型TiO2，SiO2包覆后通过物理包覆作用与TiO2发生了结合。微观测试发现SiO2/TiO2材料均为球形颗粒，直径为1.5~2 μm，随着热处理温度的增加，尺寸轻微增大。亲水亲油测试表明SiO2/TiO2纳米材料具有较强的亲油性。其对亚甲基蓝的褪色率低于纯TiO2，随着热处理温度的增加，褪色率先降低后升高，550 ℃处理的SiO2/TiO2纳米材料对亚甲基蓝的褪色率最低为18.7%。将SiO2/TiO2纳米材料自制成防晒乳液，其对于紫外光屏蔽效果优于纯TiO2，热处理温度为550 ℃时，复合材料的透射率最低，对紫外光的屏蔽效果最佳。综合来看，SiO2包覆后的SiO2/TiO2复合材料在防晒化妆品的应用中具有较高的潜力。 SiO2-coated SiO2/TiO2 nanomaterials were prepared by ultrasonic hydrolysis. The effects of different heat treatment temperatures on the properties of SiO2/TiO2 nanomaterials were studied. It was found that the structure of SiO2/TiO2 nanomaterials did not change, and they were all rutile-type TiO2. SiO2 was combined with TiO2 by bonding after SiO2 coating. The results of microscopic test showed that the SiO2/TiO2 materials were spherical particles with diameter of 1.5-2 μm, and the size was slightly increased with the increase of heat treatment temperature. Hydrophilic and lipophilic tests showed that the SiO2/TiO2 nanomaterials had strong lipophilicity. The fading rate of methylene blue by SiO2/TiO2 nanomaterials was lower than that of pure TiO2. With the increase of heat treatment temperature, the fading rate first decreased and then increased. The fading rate of methylene blue by SiO2/TiO2 nanomaterials treated at 550 ℃ was the lowest （18.7%）. The SiO2/TiO2 nanomaterials were introduced into sunscreen lotions, indicative of better UV shielding effect than pure TiO2. When the heat treatment temperature was 550 ℃, the transmittance of the composite material was the lowest and the UV shielding effect was the best. Overall, the SiO2/TiO2 composites coated with SiO2 had high potential of application in sunscreen cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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神经酰胺复合物对光损伤3D全层皮肤模型的作用研究 Efficacy evaluation of ceramide complex on 3D full-thickness skin model under UV-induction 蔡卓, 卢媛, 汪冰洁, 刘俏苑 2023 (1):  47-53.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.007 摘要 ( 235 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(2992KB) ( 262 )   通过重建光损伤3D全层皮肤模型，利用石蜡切片免疫组化、免疫荧光染色等办法，观察样本细胞、组织形态，检测模型细胞外基质Ⅰ型胶原蛋白，表皮屏障蛋白FLG、CLDN-1、LCE-A1以及相关应激酶的含量变化，评估神经酰胺复合物对光损伤的成年皮肤真表皮层的影响。实验发现神经酰胺复合物可以显著缓解因紫外造成的表皮分化紊乱、胶原蛋白流失、屏障蛋白降低和皮肤应激防御反应，减少皮肤因紫外辐照产生的一系列负面影响，对皮肤光损伤具有预防修护作用。 In this study, a 3D full-thickness skin model with UV-induced damage was reconstructed to evaluated the effects of ceramide complex. Paraffin section immunohistochemistry and immunofluorescence staining were used to observe the morphology of sample cells and tissues, detect the content changes of ECM protein such type I collagen, a number of late differentiation markers: filaggrin, claudin-1, LCE-1A as well as stress-related enzymes in the model. The results show that ceramide complex can significantly alleviate epidermal differentiation disorder, collagen loss, barrier damage and skin stress defense response caused by UV irradiation. Therefore, the complex reduces a series of negative effects caused by ultraviolet radiation on skin, which has a preventive and repair effect on skin from UV damage. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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基于网络药理学探讨罗勒抗炎抗菌分子机制 Molecular mechanism of anti-inflammatory and antibacterial of Ocimum basilicum L. based on network pharmacology 孙锦月, 武楠楠, 张瑜, 何华名, 何聪芬 2023 (1):  54-61.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.008 摘要 ( 179 )   HTML ( 18 )   PDF(12839KB) ( 98 )   利用网络药理学探究罗勒抗炎抗菌的作用机制，并通过体外试验进行初步验证。通过相关数据库筛选到罗勒的18种化合物和6种挥发油成分，作用靶点521个，获得抗炎抗菌相关靶点975个。使用Venny 2.1做药物和疾病靶点交集的韦恩图，得到88个罗勒抗炎抗菌靶点。构建蛋白互作PPI网络，并进行GO和KEGG富集分析。根据蛋白关联度可知核心靶点涉及TNF-α，IL-1β，IL-6等，主要通过对细菌的反应、对脂多糖的反应等信号通路发挥抗炎抗菌作用。体外细胞试验采用LPS及热灭活痤疮丙酸杆菌（Cutibacterium acnes，C.a）诱导的THP-1两种炎症细胞模型。采用ELISA法检测添加不同含量罗勒精油（Ocimum basilicum L. essential oil，OBEO）细胞的TNF-α，IL-1β、IL-6的分泌量。结果显示，体积分数为0.025%的OBEO能够抑制两种炎症损伤模型TNF-α，IL-1β，IL-6的表达；且OBEO对灭活C.a致THP-1细胞炎症损伤的抑制作用显著，分别降低TNF-α，IL-1β，IL-6的表达24%，45%，13%左右。 Network pharmacology was used to explore the anti-inflammatory and antibacterial mechanism of basil, which was preliminarily verified by in vitro test. Through the relevant database, 18 compounds and 6 volatile oil components of basil are screened, and 521 action targets, 975 anti-inflammatory and antibacterial targets are obtained. The Venny 2.1 is used to make the Wayne diagram of the intersection of drugs and disease targets, and 88 basil anti-inflammatory and antibacterial targets are obtained. The protein-protein interaction PPI network is constructed and enriched by go and KEGG. According to the protein correlation degree, the core target involving TNF-α, IL-1 β and IL-6 plays an anti-inflammatory and antibacterial role mainly through the signal pathways such as response to bacteria and response to lipopolysaccharide. In vitro, two inflammatory cell models of THP-1 induced by LPS and heat inactivated Cutibacterium acnes （C.a） were used to detect TNF in cells supplemented with different concentrations of Ocimum basilicum L. essential oil （OBEO） by TNF-α, IL-1 β, IL-6 secretion. The results show that OBEO at a volume fraction of 0.025% is able to inhibit the expression of TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6 in both inflammatory injury models. And the inhibitory effect of OBEO on inactivated C.a caused inflammatory injury in THP-1 cells is significant, reducing the expression of TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6 by about 24%, 45%, and 13%, respectively. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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马尾松松针提取物对人毛乳头细胞的保护作用及机制研究 Protective effect and mechanism of Pinus massoniana pine needle extract in human dermal papilla cells 王建成, 邢岩, 徐婷, 王玥, 李永强, 张丽梅 2023 (1):  62-70.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.009 摘要 ( 187 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1388KB) ( 278 )   研究了马尾松松针提取物对人毛乳头细胞（Human dermal papilla cells，HDP）的保护作用及机制。通过制备并分析不同溶剂松针提取物中主要活性成分含量；建立二氢睾酮（Dihydrotestosterone，DHT）诱导HDP细胞损伤模型，采用CCK8法检测细胞相对活力，qPCR检测细胞中血管内皮生长因子（Vascular endothelial growth factor，VEGF）、转化生长因子-β2（Transforming growth factor-β2，TGF-β2）、β-连环蛋白（β-Catenin）和蓬乱蛋白1（Dishevelled 1，DVL1）基因相对表达量，探究松针提取物对Wnt/β-Catenin信号通路的影响；最后采用UPLC-QTOF/MS分析鉴定提取物成分。结果表明，松针50%醇提物可显著提高HDP细胞相对活力，最高达88.3%（P<0.05）；显著提高VEGF mRNA表达量（P<0.05），降低TGF-β2 mRNA相对表达量（P<0.01）；并显著促进Wnt/β-Catenin信号中DVL1 mRNA和β-Catenin mRNA表达（P<0.05，P<0.01）。从松针50%醇提物中共鉴定出36种成分，包括黄酮类、木脂素类、生物碱和萜类等化合物。马尾松松针提取物对人毛乳头细胞具有保护作用，其机制可能与Wnt/β-Catenin信号传导途径有关。 The effect and mechanism of Pinus massoniana pine needle extract on the activity of protecting human dermal papilla cells （HDP） were explored in this paper. The different extracts from pine needle were prepared with different solvents, and the content of active components was determined and analyzed by the corresponding determination method. HDP cells were induced by dihydrotestosterone（DHT）to establish androgenic alopecia cell model. CCK8 method was used to analyze the effect of pine needle extracts on the relative viability of the cells, and qPCR was adopted to investigate the effect of pine needle extract on regulating Wnt/β-Catenin signaling pathway by detecting the relative expression of VEGF, TGF-β2, β-Catenin, and DVL1 genes. UPLC-QTOF/MS was used to identify the components of the pine needle extract. The results show that the 50% alcohol extract of pine needle can significantly improve the relative activity of HDP cells （P<0.05）, increase the expression of VEGF mRNA （P<0.05）, decrease TGF-β2 mRNA relative expression （P<0.01）, and promote the expression of DVL1 mRNA and β-Catenin mRNA expression in the Wnt/β-Catenin signaling pathway（P<0.05, P<0.01）. In addition, a total of 36 components are identified from the 50% alcohol extract of pine needle, including flavonoids, lignans, alkaloids, and terpenes. Pinus massoniana pine needle extract has a protective effect on HDP cells, and its mechanism may be related to Wnt/β-Catenin signaling pathway. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

专论与综述

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表面活性剂与皮肤相互作用的研究进展 Research progress on the interactions between surfactants and skin 李强, 龚盛昭, 万岳鹏, 孟潇 2023 (1):  71-78.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.010 摘要 ( 416 )   HTML ( 27 )   PDF(1262KB) ( 411 )   表面活性剂作为个人护理清洁产品的主要清洁成分，会直接接触皮肤进而与皮肤产生不同的作用。表面活性剂对皮肤的刺激性与其结构、类型、浓度、暴露时间、皮肤状态等多种因素相关。在清洁过程中，皮肤表面的污垢被表面活性剂增溶带入水中，表面活性剂也会与细胞间脂质相互作用加剧对皮肤屏障功能的破坏，导致皮肤干燥紧绷。但随着表面活性剂的进一步渗透并迁移到更深的皮层，会对活的表皮细胞如角质形成细胞产生破坏作用，并引起皮肤的局部炎症反应。文章简要概述了表面活性剂在水溶液中的基本性质及其结构与刺激性的联系，对表面活性剂的皮肤渗透理论模型、以及对皮肤脂质和活细胞的影响进行了归纳总结，并从个人护理产品配方角度出发，对表面活性剂降低皮肤刺激性的方法进行了可行性的展望。 Surfactants are the main cleaning ingredients in personal care and cleaning products, which may have diverse effects on the skin. The potential of surfactants in skin irritation is related to surfactant structure, concentration, exposure time/frequency, initial skin condition and other factors. During the cleaning process, oil, dirt, sweat and sebum are removed through the action of surfactants. Surfactants may interact with the surface of the epidermis causing denaturation of proteins and induce the elution and damage to the structure of the intercellular cement of stratum corneum. Consequently, consumers may experience a range of cutaneous symptoms including dry skin, burning sensation, and loss of skin elasticity. Meanwhile, as the surfactants penetrate into deeper skin layers, there will be a damaging effect on living cells such as keratinocytes and it leads to a local inflammatory response, causing the release of inflammatory mediators from cells. This process may result in topical skin lesions presenting as red skin, desquamation and erythema. This paper presented a review of literature on the interactions between surfactants and skin. The surfactant behavior in solution, the relationship between surfactant structure and skin irritation, and the interactions with skin lipids and living skin cells were discussed. The future development of methods for reducing skin irritation potential for household chemicals and body wash cosmetics was prospected. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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下一代风险评估在化妆品原料安全性评价的应用研究进展 The research progress of next generation risk assessment in safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients 罗飞亚, 苏哲, 黄湘鹭, 邢书霞, 孙磊, 许鸣镝, 路勇 2023 (1):  79-85.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.011 摘要 ( 323 )   HTML ( 16 )   PDF(1039KB) ( 250 )   下一代风险评估（Next Generation Risk Assessment，NGRA）是在传统的风险评估基础上发展出的一套以暴露为导向、以假设为驱动的新式风险评估框架体系。随着科学技术的发展、3R原则的推广，化妆品安全性评价和风险评估方法也在不断进步。国外已有一些采用NGRA开展化妆品原料风险评估的探索性案例研究，这些案例分析展示了NGRA的评估过程，有助于提高对NGRA原则的理解。文章通过对国际化妆品监管合作组织（ICCR）提出的NGRA原则、框架体系、评估工具以及国外应用NGRA开展化妆品原料安全性评价的案例分析等内容进行系统性的梳理和介绍，提出我国化妆品原料安全性评价面临的挑战，希望为提高我国化妆品技术支撑能力提供研究思路和技术储备。 Next Generation Risk Assessment （NGRA） is a new framework that an exposure-led, hypothesis-driven approach develops based on traditional risk assessment method. With the development of science and technology and the promotion of 3R principle, the safety evaluation and risk assessment methods of cosmetics are also improving worldwide. NGRA develops the risk assessment from focusing on hazard identification and relying on traditional animal test data for toxicity endpoints to evaluate the process of exposure by describing the mechanisms and characteristics of the disturbance of key events in adverse outcome pathways, using high-throughput screening and prediction tools to increase the efficiency of risk assessment. There are several articles reported some case studies of cosmetics ingredients applied by NGRA and helping to enhance the understanding of the mechanism and process of NGRA. In this study, it is systematically introduced the principles, framework, and evaluation tools of NGRA proposed by the International Cosmetics Regulatory Cooperation Organization （ICCR）, as well as the case studies of application NGRA in the safety assessment of cosmetics ingredients, to introduce this new safety assessment method. In addition, this study also puts forward the requirements for the safety evaluation of cosmetics ingredients in China, and points out the application prospect and technical challenges of NGRA. It is hoped to provide research ideas and reserves for improving our technical support capacity. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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图形创意元素在化妆品包装视觉形象设计中的应用 Application of graphic creative elements in cosmetic packaging visual image design 田怡 2023 (1):  86-91.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.012 摘要 ( 194 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1487KB) ( 138 )   随着生活水平的提高，女性对于化妆品的追求也在提升，在追求化妆品效果的同时，更加注重化妆品外包装的设计感。因此，化妆品包装设计升级能够在一定程度上提升化妆品的销售量。针对此现象，本文对图形创意元素在化妆品包装视觉形象设计中的应用展开研究。图形创意元素在化妆品包装中应用主要为实现提升并凸出化妆品形象的目的，在此基础上分析目前消费者的选购化妆品心理以及图形创意元素的分类，通常设计包括线、面和立体空间等类别，获知图形创意元素类别后，研究图形创意元素的应用情况，设计策略包含图形同构、正负图形、异变异影，通过这些策略，在化妆品包装上达到良好的视觉形象设计效果，提升化妆品包装的视觉效果与艺术效果，体现出较高的审美艺术，最终实现吸引消费者的目的。 With the improvement of economic level, people’s living standards are also improving. Contemporary women begin to pursue spiritual satisfaction while meeting material needs. Women begin to pay more attention to their own skin management, and their demand for cosmetics also increases greatly. While pursuing the effect of cosmetics, contemporary women pay more attention to the sense of design of cosmetic packaging. Better outer packaging design can improve the product image of cosmetics. Therefore, the upgrading of cosmetic packaging design can improve the sales volume of cosmetics to a certain extent. Aiming at this phenomenon, this paper studied the application of graphic creative elements in the visual image design of cosmetic packaging. The application of graphic creative elements in cosmetics packaging is mainly to enhance and highlight the image of cosmetics. On this basis, this paper analyzes the current consumers’ psychology of purchasing cosmetics and the classification of graphic creative elements. The design usually includes lines, surfaces and three-dimensional space. After knowing the category of graphic creative elements, the application of graphic creative elements is studied. The design strategy includes graphic isomorphism, positive and negative graphics, variation and shadow, and in-depth analysis of the classification of graphic creative elements. An in-depth analysis of the strategy and application of graphic creative elements in packaging at this stage is made. Through these strategies, we can achieve a good visual image design effect on cosmetics packaging, make the visual communication effect of cosmetics more intuitive, stimulate consumers to generate the desire to buy the cosmetics, combine the artistic ideas that the brand wants to express, convey more accurate information to consumers, jump out of the restrictions of words, bring good visual experience effect and shopping experience to consumers, highlight the connotation and artistic value of cosmetics, improve the visual effect and artistic effect of cosmetics packaging, reflect high aesthetic art, and finally achieve the purpose of attracting consumers. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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木质素纳米粒子的功能化应用研究进展 Research progress on functional application of lignin nanoparticles 王春玉, 王惠娟, 范世强, 刘杨 2023 (1):  92-99.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.013 摘要 ( 258 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF(2820KB) ( 228 )   木质素是植物中含量仅次于纤维素的第二大天然有机高分子化合物，具有优异的耐腐蚀、耐热、抗菌和抗氧化性能。木质素资源的高效利用对解决化石资源的日益紧缺及环境污染等问题具有重要意义。木质素纳米粒子（LNPs）的出现为木素基高附加值产品的开发与应用开辟了一条新途径，其兼具纳米材料的小尺寸效应、表面效应、界面效应等特性和木质素自身的优异特性，在众多领域都表现出了广泛的潜在应用价值。本文对LNPs的6种制备方法包括：自组装法、界面聚合/交联法、高剪切均质法、超声波法、微生物法和酶解法的特点及原理进行了概述，并对每种方法的产物组成、最终产物状态进行了梳理。随后综述了LNPs在吸附剂、比色探针和复合材料（复合薄膜、复合水凝胶）中的功能化应用研究进展，并对其发展前景进行了展望，以期为LNPs的功能化开发提供思路。 Lignin is the second largest natural organic polymer compound in plants after cellulose, which has excellent corrosion resistance, heat resistance, and antibacterial and antioxidative properties. The efficient utilization of lignin resources is of great significance to solve the problems of increasing shortage of fossil resources and environmental pollution. The emergence of lignin nanoparticles （LNPs） has opened up a new way for the development and application of high value-added lignin-based products, which combines the small size effect, surface effect and interface effect of nanomaterials with the excellent characteristics of lignin itself. LNPs have shown potential applications in many fields. Herein, the characteristics and principles of six preparation methods of LNPs were summarized, including self-assembly method, interfacial polymerization/crosslinking method, high shear homogenization method, ultrasonic method, microbial method and enzymatic method. The product composition and final product state of each method were also introduced. Then, the research progress on functional applications of LNPs in adsorbents, colorimetric probes and composite materials （composite films and composite hydrogels） was reviewed, and the development trend of LNPs was prospected to provide ideas for functional development of LNPs. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

分析与检测

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超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法测定化妆品中27种磺胺类药物 Determination of 27 sulfonamides in cosmetics by ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry 贺丽英, 蒋凤兵 2023 (1):  100-108.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.014 摘要 ( 190 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1138KB) ( 190 )   建立超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法（UPLC-MS/MS）测定化妆品中27种非法添加磺胺类药物的分析方法。样品经甲醇提取，用Thermo Hypersil GOLD（100×2.1 mm，1.9 μm）色谱柱分离，以0.1%（V/V）乙酸水溶液-0.1%（V/V）乙酸乙腈溶液为流动相梯度洗脱，在电喷雾正、负离子模式下以多反应监测（MRM）方式对化妆品中的27种磺胺类药物进行定性定量测定。27种待测组分在各自的质量浓度范围内线性关系良好，相关系数均大于0.99，在3个不同添加水平下，平均回收率为79.3%~112.2%，RSD为1.4%~13.1%（n=6），方法的检出限（S/N≥3）和定量限（S/N≥10）分别为2.3~97.6 μg/kg和7.7~322.0 μg/kg。该方法简单快速，灵敏可靠，适用于化妆品中27种磺胺类药物的同时定性定量筛查分析。 The study aims to establish an analytical method for determination of 27 illegally added sulfonamides in cosmetics by ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry. The samples were extracted by methanol，and separated on Thermo Hypersil GOLD column （100×2.1 mm，1.9 μm）, 0.1%（V/V）acetic acid aqueous solution and 0.1%（V/V）acetic acid acetonitrile solution were used as mobile phases with gradient elution. The quantitative analysis of 27 sulfonamides were operated in the electrospray ionization positive/negative mode using multiple reaction monitoring （MRM）. The correlation coefficients of linear calibration curves are greater than 0.99 in the corresponding mass concentration ranges of the 27 sulfonamides. The average recoveries of the 27 sulfonamides at three spiked levels range from 79.3% to 112.2% with the relative standard deviations of 1.4%-13.1%（n=6）. The LODS （S/N≥3） and LOQS（S/N≥10） are 2.3-97.6 μg/kg and 7.7-322.0 μg/kg, respectively. The results show that this method is simple, rapid, sensitive and reliable. It is suitable for qualitative and quantitative screening analysis of the 27 sulfonamides in cosmetics simultaneously. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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超声提取-高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中5种苯并三唑类紫外线吸收剂 Determination of five benzotriazole UV absorbers in cosmetics by ultrasonic extraction and high performance liquid chromatography 王磊, 吴越, 田冬 2023 (1):  109-114.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.015 摘要 ( 158 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(1243KB) ( 172 )   建立了一种利用高效液相色谱同时测定化妆品中甲酚曲唑（UV-P）、奥克三唑（UV-329）、布美三唑（UV-326）、甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷（DTTSO）、亚甲基双-苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚（UV-360）的方法。其中，水状化妆品经甲醇/四氢呋喃溶解、超声提取、微孔滤膜过滤后进样；乳液状、霜状化妆品经甲醇/四氢呋喃溶解、涡旋振荡、超声提取、微孔滤膜过滤后进样。使用ZORBAX SC-C18色谱柱（250 mm×4.6 mm，5 μm），柱温23 ℃，以0.1%的甲酸水溶液为A相、甲醇为B相、四氢呋喃为C相进行洗脱，流速1.0 mL/min，检测波长340 nm，进样量5 μL。结果表明，5种紫外线吸收剂在11~176 mg/L的质量浓度范围内线性关系良好（R2≧0.999 4），检测限分别为6.72，11.94，13.80，18.47和23.49 μg/L，相对标准偏差小于1.7%（n=6），加标平均回收率达到93.7%~104.5%。该方法能满足化妆品中5种苯并三唑类紫外线吸收剂的测定。 A method for the determination of 2-（2-benzotriazolyl）-4-methylphenol（UV-P）, 2-benzotriazol-2-yl-4-（1, 1, 3, 3-tetramethylbutyl）phenol（UV-329）, 2-tert-butyl-6-（5-chloro-2H-benzotriazol-2-yl）-4-methylphenol（UV-326）, 2-（benzotriazol-2-yl）-4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[methyl-bis（trimethylsilyloxy）silyl]propyl]phenol（DTTSO） and 2, 2-methylenebis[6-（2H-benzotriazol-2-yl）-4-（1, 1, 3, 3-tetramethylbutyl）phenol]（UV-360） in cosmetics by high performance liquid chromatography was established. Watery cosmetics were dissolved in methanol/tetrahydrofuran, ultrasonically extracted, and filtered by microporous membrane for injection. Emulsion and cream cosmetics were prepared by methanol/tetrahydrofuran dissolution, vortex oscillation, ultrasonic extraction, and microporous membrane filtration injection. The target chemicals were separated on ZORBAX SC-C18 column（250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm）using 0.1% formic acid, methanol and tetrahydrofuran as mobile phases and detected at 340 nm and 23 ℃. The flow rate of the mobile phase was 1.0 mL/min and the injection volume was 5 μL. The results show that the five benzotriazole ultraviolet absorbents have a good linear relationship in the mass concentration range of about 11-176 mg/L（R2≧0.999 4）, the detection limits are 6.72, 11.94, 13.80, 18.47 and 23.49 μg/L, respectively, the relative standard deviation is less than 1.7%（n=6）, and the average recovery rate is 93.7%-104.5%. The method is suitable for the determination of five benzotriazole ultraviolet absorbents in cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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山香圆有效成分的制备及HPLC测定质量标准建立 Preparation of active ingredients in Shanxiangyuan and establishment of quality standards for HPLC determination 梁迪思, 罗辉泰, 黄芳, 李庆 2023 (1):  115-120.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.016 摘要 ( 146 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1201KB) ( 135 )   制备山香圆中有效成分女贞苷，并通过高效液相色谱（HPLC）建立了质量标准。以70%乙醇为溶剂加压提取山香圆中有效成分女贞苷，并以女贞苷得率为指标优化提取条件。结果显示，山香圆中有效成分女贞苷的较佳提取工艺：料液比为1∶30 （g∶mL），提取温度为90 ℃，萃取时间为2.0 h；较佳纯化工艺：提取溶剂流速为1.0 mL/min，洗脱溶剂流速为2.0 BV/h，洗脱溶剂体积为2.0 BV/h。采用HPLC，C18色谱柱（250 mm×4.6 mm，5 μm），流动相A相为甲醇，B相为0.5%磷酸，流速为1.0 mL/min，检测波长为360 nm，柱温为室温；结果表明，女贞苷均在0.309~39.126 μg/mL范围内线性关系良好（r2=0.999 9），重复性RSD<4.0%（n=6），稳定性（24 h内）RSD<2.0%（n=6），平均加样回收率为95%~105%。山香圆有效成分制备工艺简单，HPLC测定质量标准方法简便、准确，重复性好，可为将来山香圆有效成分含量质量控制提供实验依据。 The active ingredient Ligustrum lucidum in Shanxiangyuan was prepared and the quality standard was established based on high performance liquid chromatography （HPLC）. The extraction conditions were optimized according to the yield of Ligustrum lucidum as the index, in which 70% ethanol was used as the solvent under pressure. The results showed that, the optimized extraction process was as follows: The solid-liquid ratio was 1∶30 （g∶mL）; the extraction temperature was 90 ℃; the extraction time was 2.0 h. The optimized purification process was as follows: The flow rate of extraction solvent was 1.0 mL/min; the flow rate of elution solvent was 2.0 BV/h; the elution solvent volume was 2.0 BV/h. In HPLC determination, C18 column （250 mm×4.6 mm, 5 μm） was used, mobile phase A was methanol, phase B was 0.5% phosphoric acid, the flow rate was 1.0 mL/min, the detection wavelength was 360 nm, and the column temperature was room temperature. The results showed that, the linearity was good in the range of 0.309-39.126 μg/mL （r2=0.999 9）, the repeatability was RSD<4.0% （n=6）, the stability （within 24 h） was RSD<2.0% （n=6）, and the average spiked recoveries were 95%-105%. The preparation process of the active ingredients of Shan Xiang Yuan was simple, and the quality standard based on determination by HPLC method was simple, accurate and reproducible, which could provide an experimental basis for the quality control of the content of active ingredients in Shanxiangyuan in future. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标