由于空气污染、紫外辐射、长期佩戴口罩等影响因素，我国敏感性皮肤人群的比例逐渐增加。与正常皮肤相比，敏感性皮肤更易发生皮肤刺激，而舒缓功效化妆品有助于改善皮肤刺激等状态。我国现行法律法规要求对舒缓功效宣称的化妆品进行功效宣称评价，然而，国内外目前尚未建立相应的科学有效的标准评价方法。本文从敏感性皮肤成因出发，阐述了皮肤屏障功能受损、皮肤炎症反应、皮肤神经反应过度及其相互促进累积的敏感皮肤形成机制，为舒缓功效原料及产品开发提供理论依据，并在此基础上调研了化妆品舒缓功效在人体、动物、3D皮肤模型、细胞、生化等不同维度上的评价方法，旨在为建立健全舒缓功效评价体系提供科学依据与理论支撑，从而不断完善符合中国国情并与国际接轨的化妆品监管体系，推动中国化妆品行业持续健康发展。
In recent years, with the continuous development of the global economy and the gradual improvement of the living standards of residents, consumers have higher and higher requirements on the quantity, quality, safety and efficacy of cosmetics. At the same time, the proportion of people with sensitive skin is gradually increasing due to air pollution, ultraviolet radiation, work and life pressure, irregular diet and rest, and long-term wearing of masks during the epidemic. Compared with normal skin, sensitive skin is more prone to skin irritation and other problems, while soothing cosmetics can help improve the skin tension, dryness, redness, burning, tingling, itching, scale and other adverse skin conditions caused by internal and external factors. China’s current laws and regulations, the Evaluation Criteria for Cosmetic Efficacy claims, clearly require that cosmetics with efficacy claims such as anti wrinkle, firming and soothing should be evaluated for efficacy claims. However, at present, there is no scientific and effective method system related to the evaluation of soothing efficacy at home and abroad, and there is no standard evaluation method for reference in the industry. It is not conducive to the development of raw materials, formulation development and efficacy evaluation of soothing cosmetics, and it is difficult to protect the rights and interests of consumers. Starting from the causes of sensitive skin, this paper expounds the formation mechanism of sensitive skin caused by the impairment of skin barrier function, skin immune inflammatory reaction, skin nerve reaction and their mutual promotion and accumulation, which provides a certain theoretical basis for the development of soothing raw materials and cosmetic products with the functions of repairing skin barrier function, inhibiting skin inflammatory reaction and calming nerves. On this basis, the evaluation methods of the soothing efficacy of cosmetics in different dimensions such as human body, animal, 3D skin model, cell, biochemistry and physicochemistry are also investigated, aiming to provide scientific basis and theoretical support for the establishment and improvement of the soothing efficacy evaluation system. It helps to continuously improve the cosmetics regulatory system that conforms to China’s national conditions and is in line with international standards, protect the rights and interests of consumers, and promote the sustainable and healthy development of China’s cosmetics industry.
