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欢迎访问《日用化学工业(中英文)》,今天是

当期目录

    2022年, 第52卷, 第12期 刊出日期:2022-12-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    乙基纤维素-海藻酸钠/壳聚糖微凝胶的制备及表征
    Preparation and characterization of ethyl cellulose-sodium alginate/chitosan microgels
    齐佳悦,毛燚,陈林倩,王靖,杨成,孙亚娟
    2022 (12):  1259-1268.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.001
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    为解决常见微凝胶体系释放过快、缓释效果差的问题,通过乳液法,一步制备了一种新型乙基纤维素包裹的海藻酸钠/壳聚糖微凝胶。对相同水相配比下制备出的水凝胶和微凝胶进行扫描电子显微镜观察、红外光谱、热失重效果、接触角分析和溶胀性能检测,证明了乙基纤维素包覆的海藻酸钠/壳聚糖微凝胶的成功制备。通过对小鼠单核巨噬细胞(RAW264.7)的细胞活性检测发现,微凝胶具有良好的生物相容性能,在100 mg/L的质量浓度下没有明显细胞毒性。利用模型药物甲基蓝考察了不同药物含量、乙基纤维素含量、海藻酸钠和壳聚糖含量、酸钙比(n(GDL) ∶n(EDTA-Ca)) 和钙含量对制备出的微凝胶粒径和包封率的影响,制备出微凝胶的包封率可达到67.1%。最后,对该体系的体外释放效果进行评价,结果显示该体系的持续释放时间长达15 h,且具有一定的pH敏感性。

    The porous nature of microgels allows soluble active ingredients to diffuse into or out of the particles. As a result, the release performance of microgels usually can only sustain for 5 hours, which greatly limits their application. Therefore, to solve the problems of the poorly sustained release performance of common microgel systems, a new type of (ethyl cellulose)-coated sodium alginate/chitosan (EC-Alginate/CS) microgel was prepared. An one-step emulsification method was employed to generate the new type of EC-Alginate/CS core-shell microgel. Ultra-depth microscope, scanning electron microscope (SEM), infrared spectroscopy (FT IR), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), water contact angle (WCA) and swelling ratio were used to characterize the matrix hydrogels and microgels prepared at the same water phase composition to optimize the EC-Alginate/CS core-shell microgels. The cytotoxicity experiments showed that the cell viability of mouse mononuclear macrophages (RAW264.7) at 0.1 g/L was 89.3%, which could prove that the system had good biocompatibility at this concentration. It was found that the encapsulation efficiency (EE) of microgels could achieve 67.1%. The cumulative release effect of the model drug methyl blue (MB) showed that the system could achieve a sustained release of 15 h with a certain pH sensitivity. This study provided theoretical support and application reference for the bioavailable sustained-release system for water-soluble active substances, and it might be further applied to daily chemical products such as cosmetics and laundry detergents.

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    pH对脂肪醇醚羧酸盐性能的影响研究
    Study on the effects of pH on the properties of a fatty alcohol ether carboxylate
    孙邦平,张璐,李俊,鞠洪斌,耿涛,姜亚洁
    2022 (12):  1269-1277.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.002
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    详细研究了脂肪醇醚羧酸盐(AEC-9Na)在不同质量浓度和不同pH下的平衡表面张力、动态表面张力、吸附动力学、动态接触角、润湿性能、乳化性能和泡沫性能。结果表明,在酸性条件下样品具有更好的表面活性和润湿性能,这都归因于其羧酸头基对pH的高度依赖性。在应用性能方面,碱性条件下,样品表现出良好的泡沫性能,但泡沫稳定性较差,这样的实验结果解释了乳化实验中出现的现象。为其后续的研究和工业应用提供一定的理论支持。

    The properties of a fatty alcohol ether carboxylate (AEC-9Na) in acidic and alkaline conditions was tested. Its equilibrium surface tension, dynamic surface tension, adsorption kinetics, dynamic contact angle, wetting properties, emulsification properties and foaming properties at different mass concentrations and different pH values were studied. The results show that, the samples have better surface activity and wettability in acidic conditions, which may ascribed to the highly dependence of the ionization of surfactant molecules on pH. In terms of application performance, the samples showed good foamability but poor foam stability in alkaline conditions. In the case of alkaline conditions, the ionization of carboxyl groups was increased and the electrostatic repulsion of ionic headgroups was increased, resulting in more easily broken foams. Such mechanism can also explain the phenomenon observed in emulsification experiments. The present work, indicative of the different behaviors of fatty alcohol ether carboxylates at different pH, may provide some theoretical support for subsequent research and industrial application.

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    科技讲座
    常用化妆品成型技术(Ⅵ)——固液兼备:半固体
    Common cosmetic preparation technologies(Ⅵ) Preparation sharing properties of both solids and liquids: Semisolid
    唐文俊,王长运,徐桂云,牛千雪,范金石
    2022 (12):  1278-1285.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.003
    摘要 ( 1514 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(1190KB) ( 406 )  

    半固体是自然界中天然存在的一种物质形态,也是一类极其重要的产品剂型。兼具固体和液体特性的半固体属于浓分散体系,具有非牛顿流体的流变特性。半固体一般是由有效成分和适宜基质经均匀混合而得的具有适当稠度的膏状制剂,在医药、化妆品、日用化工、食品、农业、造纸、纺织、印染、材料等诸多行业领域中得到了广泛应用。半固体作为一类极其重要的化妆品制剂,具有品类丰富、制作简单、便于使用、产品稳定、功能多样等优点。本文介绍了半固体的组成和流变性能、半固体的基质和有效成分、半固体的制备基本要求和制备方法以及几类典型半固体化妆品的性能、组成和应用,并简析了半固体化妆品的研发应持续关注的方面和重点。

    Semisolid is one kind of natural existing material state in nature, and is also a very important product preparation among many different industry fields. Possessing dual properties of both solid and liquid, semisolid is a kind of concentrated dispersion system with non-Newtonian rheological behavior. Semisolid usually appears as paste with right consistency, which is made up of uniformly mixed particular active ingredients and suitable base materials. Semisolid preparations have been widely used in medicine, cosmetics, daily-use chemicals, food, agriculture, papermaking, textile, printing, dyeing and the other fields. Being a quite important cosmetic preparation, semisolid has many fascinating advantages, such as abundant types, easy manufacture, convenient use, stable quality, high efficiency and versatile functions. Herein, the composition and rheological property, the base substances and active components, the essential requirements and production methods of semisolid are totally introduced. The characteristics, composition and applications of some typical semisolid cosmetics are also presented in detail. Meanwhile, the main research content and key development directions of semisolid on which continuous attention should be paid are also briefly pointed out.

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    开发与应用
    纳米甲壳素基Pickering乳液辅助构筑相变微胶囊
    Fabrication of phase change microcapsules via nano-chitin stabilized Pickering emulsion
    陈云博,李昕怡,毛志平,徐红,隋晓锋
    2022 (12):  1286-1292.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.004
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    相变微胶囊可以通过增加传热面积和防止泄漏来提高相变材料的热性能和机械性能。本文首先通过一种简单、高效的方法制备了纳米甲壳素,然后利用纳米甲壳素稳定石蜡制备Pickering乳液,最后通过乳液模板法得到相变微胶囊。文章着重研究了盐酸汽蒸甲壳素的时间,纳米甲壳素悬浮液的质量分数,核壳比等变量对微胶囊表面形貌和粒径的影响,实验结果表明,当汽蒸时间为5 h,纳米甲壳素悬浮液质量分数为0.5%,核壳比为3∶1时,所制得的相变微胶囊粒径为29.6 μm,其熔融焓高达187.4 J/g,包覆率为71.6%。通过热重分析和加热/冷却循环测试对相变微胶囊的热稳定性和热循环性能进行表征,结果表明微胶囊具有良好的热循环稳定性。

    Phase change microcapsules can enhance the thermal and mechanical performance of phase change materials used in thermal energy storage by increasing the heat transfer area and preventing the leakage of materials. In this paper, nano-chitin was prepared by a simple and efficient method, and then a Pickering emulsion was prepared by stabilizing paraffin with the nano-chitin. Finally, phase change microcapsules were obtained by emulsion template method. The effects of hydrochloric acid steaming time, nano-chitin suspension concentration and core-shell ratio on the surface morphology and particle size of microcapsules were studied. The results showed that, when the steaming time was 5 h, the concentration of nano-chitin suspension was 0.5%, and the core-shell ratio was 3∶1, the particle size of the microcapsules obtained was 29.6 μm and the melting enthalpy was up to 187.4 J/g, correspondingly indicative of an encapsulation rate of 71.6%. The thermal stability and thermal cycling performance of microcapsules were characterized by thermogravimetric analysis and heating/cooling cycle, showing a good thermal cycling stability.

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    不同品种蝴蝶兰黄酮代谢途径分析
    Analysis of flavonoid metabolic pathways of different varieties of Phalaenopsis and their molecular mechanism
    程灵,汪建平
    2022 (12):  1293-1299.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.005
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    采用高效液相色谱(HPLC)研究18种蝴蝶兰的黄酮代谢途径。建立HPLC技术分析黄酮代谢途径(调控颜色)。使用荧光定量PCR(Real-Time PCR)进一步分析蝴蝶兰黄酮代谢途径关键基因表达水平;农杆菌介导瞬时转化蝴蝶兰,获得转基因株系。蝴蝶兰HPLC分离技术可成功分离29种组分,与其它物种葡萄、风信子差别较大;使用Real-Time PCR分析不同品种蝴蝶兰黄酮代谢途径关键基因,发现不同品种的查尔酮合酶(Chalcone synthase,CHS),黄烷酮-3-羟化酶(Flavonol-3-hydroxylase,F3H)以及查尔酮异构酶(Chalcone isomerase,CHI)时空表达模式基本一致;农杆菌介导法构建关键酶基因RNAi干扰载体瞬时转化蝴蝶兰,黄酮代谢途径中关键酶基因干扰表达会淡化蝴蝶兰颜色。建立了蝴蝶兰黄酮代谢途径的HPLC研究方法,并对其分子机制进行了初步研究,对蝴蝶兰花色调控机理的揭示提供了理论和实践基础。

    High performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was used to study the flavonoid metabolism pathways of 18 Phalaenopsis. A HPLC technology was established to analyze the pathway of flavonoid metabolism (regulate color). Fluorescence quantitative PCR (Real-Time PCR) was used to further analyze the expression level of key genes in Phalaenopsis flavonoid synthesis pathway, and an Agrobacterium-mediated transient transformation of Phalaenopsis was used to obtain transgenic strains. Phalaenopsis HPLC separation technology can successfully separate 29 components, which is quite different from other species of grape and hyacinth. Real-Time PCR analysis of the key genes in the flavonoid synthesis pathway of different species of Phalaenopsis finds that the temporal and spatial expression patterns of Chalcone synthase (CHS), Flavonol-3-hydroxylase (F3H) and Chalcone isomerase (CHI) of different species are basically the same. The key enzyme gene RNAi interference vector is constructed by Agrobacterium-mediated method to transform Phalaenopsis transiently. The interference expression of key enzyme genes in the flavonoid synthesis pathway will reduce the color of Phalaenopsis. In conclusion, the HPLC research method of Phalaenopsis flavonoid metabolism pathway is established, and its molecular mechanism is preliminary studied, which provids a theoretical and practical basis for revealing the color regulation mechanism of Phalaenopsis orchids.

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    日用化妆品用新型表面活性剂复配性能研究
    Study on the mixing properties of a new surfactant for daily cosmetics
    郑丽艳,范智军
    2022 (12):  1300-1306.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.006
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    为了探究日用化妆品用新型表面活性剂复配性能。合成了乙二醇双琥珀酸一氯羟丙基季铵双酯磺酸钠产物(HDBC),并与十二烷基硫酸钠(SDS)混合制备新型表面活性剂(NPG)作为复配性能研究样品。对其进行了表面张力、润湿性能、亲水亲油平衡值、乳化性能和泡沫性能的测试。结果显示,当表面活性剂质量浓度达到10 g/L时,最低表面张力为31.5 mN/m,新型表面活性剂的表面张力随质量浓度增加呈现下降趋势,表现出良好的表面活性。表面活性剂溶液接触角数值不断降低,显示了良好的润湿性能。新型表面活性剂的HLB值在10~18范围内,展示了良好的亲水性。此外,当HDBC和SDS摩尔比为5∶5时,制备的NPG质量分数为80%时,泡沫性能和乳化性能较优。

    The mixing properties of a new surfactant for daily cosmetics were studied. Surfactant mixtures (NPG) were prepared by mixing sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) with the new surfactant (HDBC) which was a derivative of ethylene glycol bissuccinate containing monochlorohydroxypropyl, quaternary ammonium and sulfonate groups in different mixing ratios. Surface tension, wettability, hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, emulsifying property and foam property were tested. The results showed that when the mass concentration of the mixed surfactants reached 10 g/L, the minimum surface tension reached 31.5 mN/m, indicative of good surface activity. The surface tension of the new surfactant mixtures was decreased with the increase of mass concentration. The contact angle of the mixed surfactant solution was decreased with concentration, showing good wettability. The HLB values of the new surfactant mixtures were in the range of 10-18, showing good hydrophilicity. In addition, when the molar ratio of HDBC to SDS was 5∶5 and the mass fraction of NPG was 80%, the foam performance and emulsification performance were good.

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    椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾对氨基酸洁面膏的性能影响
    Effects of potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein on the performance of the amino acid facial cleanser
    郭华,徐进,何云平,许虎君
    2022 (12):  1307-1313.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.007
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    在一定的pH范围内,研究了4种温和表面活性剂对以椰油酰甘氨酸钠为主要表面活性剂制备的结晶型氨基酸洁面膏的结膏温度、高温稳定性、外观状态、泡沫性能及刺激性能的影响。通过对比实验,结果显示椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾对洁面膏的结膏温度和高温稳定性有明显的改善作用。通过罗氏泡沫仪测试泡沫量,结果显示椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾能增加洁面膏泡沫量和提升泡沫稳定性。通过偏光显微镜观察洁面膏料体外观,结果显示椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾有助于洁面膏形成更均一细腻的晶体。通过玉米醇溶蛋白试验法(zein test)测试洁面膏刺激性,结果显示椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾对洁面膏体系的刺激性有显著降低作用,使洁面膏更加温和。上述实验证明椰油酰水解燕麦蛋白钾对以椰油酰甘氨酸钠为主要表面活性剂的结晶型氨基酸洁面膏性能有一定的改善作用。

    Sodium cocoyl glycinate is a common amino acid surfactant with reasonable price. It is highly biodegradable, resistant to hard water, and has excellent foaming ability, which has been widely used in personal care amino acid cleansers. However, the amino acid cleansing cream prepared by using a surfactant alone (i.e., sodium cocoyl glycinate), has poor foaming performance and stability, so it is necessary to obtain amino acid cleansers with excellent foam performance, bright appearance and good stability by compounding other surfactants. Within a certain pH range, the effects of four mild surfactants on the crystalline amino acid facial cleanser prepared with sodium cocoyl glycinate as the main surfactant were studied. The crystallizing temperature, high-temperature stability, appearance, foaming performance and irritation were measured. Through comparative experiments, the results show that potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein can significantly improve the crystallizing temperature and high-temperature stability of the cleansing cream. The foam volume was tested by the Ross-Miles foam analyzer, and the results show that potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein can increase the foam volume of the cleansing cream and improve the foam stability. The results of the appearance of the cleansing cream as observed by a polarizing microscope show that, potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein has benefit in forming more uniform and fine crystals. The irritation of the cleansing cream was tested by zein test, and the results show that potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein can significantly reduce the irritation of the cleansing cream system, making the cleansing cream milder. In conclusion, potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed oat protein can improve the performance of crystalline amino acid cleansing cream with sodium cocoyl glycinate as the main surfactant. This work may contribute in developing stable amino acid cleansing cream for the personal care industry.

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    喜马拉雅土壤酵母的分离及其发酵滤液对 皮肤细胞功效的初步研究
    Isolation of Himalayan soil yeast and efficacy of its fermentation filtrate on skin cell
    王风楼,Anjoe Chong,李俊
    2022 (12):  1314-1319.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.008
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    从喜马拉雅地区植物龙胆的根际附近土壤中分离筛选出一株酿酒酵母Saccharomyces cerevisiae SC03,并对其发酵滤液进行皮肤细胞相关功效的研究,旨在为喜马拉雅地区微生物资源在化妆品领域的应用提供参考。通过收集西藏林芝龙胆根际土壤样品,分离挑选出较为理想的酵母菌株,对其进行鉴定和发酵培养,将发酵滤液添加至人皮肤成纤维细胞(FB)和角质形成细胞(KC)中。研究发现,喜马拉雅地区植物龙胆的根际附近土壤中分离筛选出的酵母菌株 S. cerevisiae SC03,相对于模式酿酒酵母S288C共有199个结构变异片段,具有独特的基因组成。皮肤细胞活性研究表明,1%发酵滤液显著促进KC中Laminin332的合成,相对含量提高了81.16%;抑制UV辐照引起的ROS升高,KC中ROS含量降低了22.17%。2%的发酵滤液显著促进FB中DNA,ATP含量,分别提升了15.43%和12.89%;β-半乳糖苷酶阳性率显著下降了15.40%。结果表明,喜马拉雅地区分离的龙胆根际酵母SC03具有一定的抗氧化和抗衰老潜力,有望成为皮肤保湿、延缓皮肤衰老、增强皮肤屏障的化妆品活性物质使用,为其在化妆品生产中的开发利用提供数据支持。

    This study aims to investigate the efficacy of the fermentation filtrate of Saccharomyces cerevisiae SC03 isolated from the rhizosphere soil of Gentiana scabra in Himalayan region on the human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The results of this study also provide a reference for further promoting the application of microbial resources from the Himalayan region in the field of cosmetics. Soil yeast strains were isolated and screened from the rhizosphere soil samples collected from Nyingchi, Tibet, and the efficacy of the fermentation filtrate on the human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes was explored. The results indicate that the genome of SC03 is very similar to that of the model yeast strain S. cerevisiae S288c, but also has special features. The fermentation filtrate of S. cerevisiae SC03 at a content of 0.5%-5% does not show cytotoxicity to human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The fermentation filtrate of S. cerevisiae SC03 at a content of 1% significantly promotes the synthesis of Laminin332 in keratinocytes and inhibits the increase of ROS caused by UV irradiation, which is 81.16% and 22.17%, respectively. The fermentation filtrate of SC03 at a content of 2% significantly promotes DNA and ATP content of dermal fibroblasts and reduces cellular senescence-associated β-galactosidase positivity, which is 15.43%, 12.89%, and 15.40%, respectively. These results suggest that the rhizosphere soil yeast fermentation filtrate has an effect of anti-oxidant, anti-aging and skin nutrition, which has the potential for further development and utilization in cosmetics production.

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    芦荟胶抗炎功效研究
    Study on the anti-inflammatory effect of Aloe vera gel
    李晓敏,张红霞,范莹,袁利文,汤酿,郑锦荣,闫永涛
    2022 (12):  1320-1325.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.009
    摘要 ( 236 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(1566KB) ( 330 )  

    初步探讨芦荟胶的抗炎功效和作用机制。使用佛波酯(TPA)在雄性KM小鼠耳朵部位进行炎症造模,并制成切片进行HE染色;应用硫酸铜诱导斑马鱼胚胎侧线区域神经丘细胞损伤,研究了中性粒细胞聚集情况;采用LPS诱导RAW264.7细胞炎症模型考察芦荟胶对炎症因子分泌的抑制作用;分别使用微量肉汤稀释法和悬液定量法研究了芦荟胶对金黄色葡萄球菌、痤疮丙酸杆菌的最小抑菌浓度(MIC)和抑菌率。结果显示,芦荟胶在1.5 g/mL时可抑制小鼠耳朵肿胀(P<0.05);芦荟胶在0.7和2.50 mg/mL时对斑马鱼胚胎中性粒细胞聚集有显著抑制(P<0.01);芦荟胶在0.75,1.50,3.00 mg/mL时可显著抑制RAW264.7细胞分泌TNF-α、IL-6(P<0.01);芦荟胶对金黄色葡萄球菌和痤疮丙酸杆菌的MIC分别是12.5和3.125 mg/mL,对金黄色葡萄球菌、痤疮丙酸杆菌的抑菌率随着芦荟胶的作用时间延长和浓度增加而升高。芦荟胶具有抗炎功效,且该功能可能通过减少中性粒细胞聚集、抑制炎症因子TNF-α和IL-6产生的抗炎通路,以及抑制金黄色葡萄球菌和痤疮丙酸杆菌的抑菌功能共同实现。

    This study is to dissect the effect and mechanism of Aloe vera gel on anti-inflammation. The ear inflammation model of male Kunming (KM) mice was induced by phorbol ester (TPA). The accumulation of neutrophils in the lateral line region of zebrafish embryos was tested using copper sulfate. The inhibitory effect of Aloe vera gel on the secretion of cytokines in RAW264.7 cells, including TNF-α and IL-6, was studied in lipopolysaccharide (LPS) - induced inflammation model. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) and inhibitory rate of aloe gel against Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes were also studied via broth microdilution method and suspension quantification method, respectively. The model of ear inflammation is successfully established in male KM mice, and Aloe vera gel inhibits the ear swelling of mice at 1.5 g/mL (P<0.05). Aloe vera gel significantly inhibits neutrophil aggregation in zebrafish embryos at 0.7 and 2.50 mg/mL (P<0.01). Aloe vera gel significantly inhibits the secretion of TNF-α and IL-6 in RAW264.7 cells at 0.75, 1.50 and 3.00 mg/mL (P<0.01). The MIC of aloe gel against Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes are 12.5 and 3.125 mg/mL, respectively. The inhibitory rate of aloe gel against Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes increases with the prolongation of the action time and concentration of Aloe vera gel. Aloe vera gel achieves anti-Inflammatory effect possibly through anti-inflammatory pathway of reducing neutrophil aggregation and inhibiting the production of inflammatory factors TNF-α and IL-6, as well as directly inhibiting Staphylococcus aureus and Propionibacterium acnes.

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    重组人源化Ⅲ型胶原蛋白对皮肤功能性相关基因 表达的影响
    Effect of recombinant humanized type Ⅲ collagen on expression of skin functional related genes
    范婷,赵健烽,常烨珺,季乐
    2022 (12):  1326-1332.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.010
    摘要 ( 475 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1323KB) ( 489 )  

    重组人源化Ⅲ型胶原蛋白(RHC Ⅲ)由人胶原原始基因序列经过优化重组表达所得,与人体天然胶原氨基酸序列高度一致。为探究重组人源化Ⅲ型胶原蛋白应用在化妆品中,对减缓皮肤皱纹的功效作用,通过测试其作用于人皮肤成纤维细胞和角质形成细胞,在皮肤功能性基因层面验证其抗皱功效。结果表明,5 mg/mL RHC Ⅲ作用于人皮肤成纤维细胞可显著促进胶原合成相关基因Collagen Ⅰ,Collagen Ⅲ和Smad3的表达;同时,在UVA刺激条件下可显著抑制胶原降解相关基因MMP-1,MMP-3,c-jun和c-fos的表达。作用于角质形成细胞可显著促进皮肤屏障修复和保湿相关基因LOR,TGM1,IVL,OCLN1,DSG1,FLG,Caspase14和K1的表达。综上所述,样品重组人源化Ⅲ型胶原蛋白在 5 mg/mL的给药质量浓度下具有抗皱功效。

    At present, the extraction of collagen is mainly from animal skin tissues, such as pigs, cattle, fish, and so on, which has certain virus hidden trouble. In order to obtain safer and better collagen, scholars have used gene recombination technology to produce recombinant human collagen. Type Ⅲ collagen is the main collagen in human skin, so the use of recombinant type Ⅲ collagen is of great significance for the study of skin properties. The recombinant humanized type Ⅲ collagen is obtained by optimizing recombinant expression of a human collagen original gene sequence that is highly consistent with a human natural collagen amino acid sequence. In order to explore the effect of recombinant humanized type Ⅲ collagen on alleviating skin wrinkles when applied to cosmetics, its anti-wrinkle effect was verified at the skin functional gene level by testing on human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes. The results show that 5 mg/mL RHC Ⅲ can significantly promote the expression of collagen synthesis-related genes Collagen Ⅰ, Collagen Ⅲ and Smad3 in human skin fibroblasts. Meanwhile, under UVA stimulation, the expression of collagen degradation related genes MMP-1, MMP-3, c-jun and c-fos can be significantly inhibited. Acting on keratinocytes can significantly promote the expression of skin barrier and moisturizing-related genes LOR, TGM1, IVL, OCLN1, DSG1, FLG, Caspase14 and K1.To sum up, the sample recombinant type Ⅲ collagen has anti-wrinkle effect at the mass concentration of 5 mg/mL.

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    分析与检测
    高效液相色谱法测定染发产品中15种染料成分
    Determination of 15 kinds of dyestuffs in hair dyes by high performance liquid chromatography
    刘芸,刘杰,黄伟,丁晓萍,李丽霞,李红英
    2022 (12):  1333-1341.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.011
    摘要 ( 166 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1183KB) ( 608 )  

    建立了高效液相色谱法测定染发产品中15种限用染料的分析方法。样品经无水乙醇和水(V无水乙醇V=6∶4)的混合溶液超声提取,使用色谱柱Welch Xtimate-C18(4.6 mm×250 mm,5 µm)经过梯度洗脱分离,流动相为乙腈-0.02 mol/L乙酸铵溶液,流速为1.0 mL/min,检测波长为230 nm,二极管阵列检测器检测。15种染料成分在相应的质量浓度范围内线性关系良好,线性相关系数R2>0.995;检出限为0.86~7.63 μg/g;平均回收率为85.42%~114.61%,相对标准偏差(RSD)为0.72%~8.65%。该方法简便、快速、测定结果可靠,适用于染发剂中15种限用染料成分的定量检测。

    The aim of the study was to establish a detection method for determination of 15 kinds of dyestuffs in hair dyes by high performance liquid chromatography(HPLC). The 15 kinds of dyestuffs were extracted with the mix of ethanol and water(Vethanol Vwater=6∶4) by the ultrasonic extraction method. The separation was performed on a Welch Xtimate-C18 column(4.6 mm×250 mm,5 μm) by gradient elution with the solution of 0.02 mol/L ammonium acetate and acetonitrile and determined by photo-diode array detector. The flow rate was 1.0 mL/min and the detection wavelength was 230 nm. The results indicate that each compound shows good linearity in its own concentration range with the correlation coefficient of R2>0.995.The limits of detection(LOD) are in the range of 0.86-7.63 μg/g. The average recoveries are ranged from 85.42% to 114.61%, and the relative standard deviation(RSD) is in the range of 0.72% to 8.65%. The method is simple, rapid, reliable and accurate, which is suitable for determination of 15 kinds of restricted dyestuffs in hair dyes.

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    高效液相色谱法测定追风活血膏中8种成分
    Determination of 8 components in Zhuifeng Huoxue Ointment by high performance liquid chromatography
    万刘静,张利
    2022 (12):  1342-1347.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.012
    摘要 ( 107 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(1132KB) ( 155 )  

    建立了高效液相色谱(HPLC)测定追风活血膏中士的宁、乌头碱、马钱子碱、当归、乳香、没药、蜕皮甾酮和青藤碱8种成分含量的方法。色谱柱为Agilent ZORBAXSB-C18柱(4.6 mm×250 mm, 5 μm);流动相:甲醇(A相),0.1% H3PO4水溶液(B相);流速1.0 mL/min;柱温室温;检测波长256 nm。结果显示,8种成分能够达到良好分离,在各自线性范围内线性关系良好,相关系数r均大于0.999;平均加样回收率在98.74%~99.67%之间,相对标准偏差(RSD)在0.85%~1.76%范围内。5批次样品中士的宁、乌头碱、马钱子碱、当归、乳香、没药、蜕皮甾酮和青藤碱的含量分别为0.031~0.349,0.021~0.166,0.024~0.298,0.021~0.219,0.017~0.186,0.015~0.158,0.015~0.149,0.016~0.179 mg/g。本文所建立的HPLC法操作简单、稳定可控,可用于追风活血膏的质量控制。

    A high performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method was developed for determination of the eight components in Zhuifeng Huoxue Ointment, namely, brucine, aconitine, strychnine, angelica, frankincense, myrrh, ecdysterone and sinomenine. The chromatographic column was an Agilent ZORBAXSB-C18 column (4.6 mm×250 mm, 5 μm); the mobile phase was methanol (phase A) and 0.1% aqueous solution of H3PO4 (phase B); the flow rate was 1.0 mL/min; the column temperature was room temperature; the detection wavelength was 256 nm. The average recoveries ranged from 98.74%-99.67%, and the relative standard deviations (RSDs) were in the range of 0.85%-1.76%. The content of strychnine, aconitine, brucine, angelica, frankincense, myrrh, ecdysterone and sinomenine in the five batches of samples were 0.031-0.349, 0.021-0.166, 0.024-0.298, 0.021-0.219, 0.017-0.186, 0.015-0.158, 0.015-0.149, 0.016-0.179 mg/g, respectively. The HPLC method developed is simple, stable and controllable, and can be used for the quality control of Zhuifeng Huoxue Ointment.

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    高效液相色谱法测定防晒类化妆品中邻甲氨基苯甲酸甲酯
    Determination of methyl methylanthranilate by high performance liquid chromatography in sunscreen cosmetics
    吴志珊,姜成君,殷帅,黄海萍,章为
    2022 (12):  1348-1352.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.013
    摘要 ( 163 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(1365KB) ( 214 )  

    建立了一种高效液相色谱法测定防晒类化妆品中邻甲氨基苯甲酸甲酯含量的方法。样品经提取、超声、过滤后,采用Welch Xtimate® C18色谱柱分离,高效液相色谱-二极管阵列检测器进行定性、定量分析。在本实验条件下,邻甲氨基苯甲酸甲酯能与防晒类化妆品中常见的22种防晒剂进行分离,其质量浓度与峰面积之间呈良好的线性关系(r=0.999 6),检出限为0.009%,定量限为0.029%,在高、中、低三种质量浓度的添加回收率实验中,回收率在99.33%~111.5%之间,RSD在0.3%~3.0%之间。该方法专属性强、准确度高,适用于防晒类化妆中邻甲氨基苯甲酸甲酯含量的测定。

    A high performance liquid chromatography(HPLC) method was established for the determination of methyl methylanthranilate in sunscreen cosmetics. After extraction, sonication and filtration, the samples were separated by Welch Xtimate® C18 chromatographic column, and qualitative and quantitative analysis were carried out by HPLC with PDA detector. Under the experimental conditions, there is a good linear relationship between peak areas and methyl methylanthranilate concentrations with the r value is 0.999 6. The detection limit is 0.009%, and the limit of quantification is 0.029%. The average recoveries are in the range of 99.33%-111.5% and the relative standard deviations are in the range of 0.3%-3.0%. This accurate and exclusive method is suitable for the qualitative and quantitative analysis of methyl methylanthranilate in sunscreen cosmetics.

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    气相色谱法测定化妆品中角鲨烷含量
    Determination of squalane in cosmetics by gas chromatography
    郭春景,蒋云杰,程恒光,李晓霞,蒋晴,吴凯宾
    2022 (12):  1353-1358.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.014
    摘要 ( 377 )   HTML ( 14 )   PDF(1187KB) ( 245 )  

    建立了气相色谱法测定化妆品中角鲨烷含量的研究方法,优化样品前处理和仪器条件参数,对水溶性化妆品用石油醚萃取,脂溶性化妆品经氢氧化钾-乙醇溶液进行皂化,用正己烷萃取,萃取液经过氮吹浓缩,用正己烷复溶定容,利用HP-5色谱柱和程序升温的柱温箱进行分离,FID检测器检测,外标法定量分析。结果表明:角鲨烷在1~ 1 000 μg/mL的质量浓度范围内呈现良好的线性关系,线性相关系数R2等于1,检出限、定量限分别为1和3 mg/kg,低、中、高3个含量水平下的加标回收率范围为92.7%~103.5%,相对标准偏差范围为1.83%~5.39%。该方法不仅实验操作简单、仪器的重复性好,而且精密度好、灵敏度高、准确度可靠,具有很好的实用性,能够准确测定化妆品中角鲨烷的 含量。

    A gas chromatographic method was established for determination of squalane in cosmetics. The GC instrument conditions and sample pretreatment process were optimized. The water-soluble cosmetics were extracted with petroleum ether, while the fat-soluble cosmetics were saponified with potassium hydroxide-ethanol solution and then extracted by n-hexane. The extraction liquid was concentrated by nitrogen-blowing, redissolved with n-hexane and brought to volume with n-hexane. The sample was analyzed on an HP-5 column with temperature programming, detected by an FID detector, and quantitated using external standard method. The results showed that, the optimal injection volume was 1 μL, the best saponification temperature was 80 ℃, the optimal saponification time was 30 min, the optimal number of times for extraction was 3, the relative standard deviation of instrument repeatability was 1.13%, and a good linear relationship was obtained between the mass concentration range of squalane from 1 to 1 000 μg/mL with the correlation coefficient of 1.The limits of detection and quantitation were 1 mg/kg and 3 mg/kg, respectively. At low, medium and high levels, the spiked recoveries ranged from 92.7% to 103.5%, and the range of relative standard deviation was 1.83%-5.39%. This method is simple in experimental operation, and has good repeatability, good precision, high sensitivity and reliable accuracy. It can accurately determine the content of squalane in cosmetics.

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    专论与综述
    生物信息学及数字技术在化妆品领域的应用概况
    Overview of the application of bioinformatics and digital technology in the field of cosmetics
    于笑乾,贾焱,李钧翔,何聪芬
    2022 (12):  1359-1365.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.015
    摘要 ( 1339 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF(990KB) ( 270 )  

    随着信息技术和数字化技术的发展,各行各业在研发、生产、管理、销售等诸多环节使用了相关技术。本文从组学、网络药理学等生物信息技术和数字化管理、AI与机器学习、大数据等数字化技术出发,介绍了各个技术的概念,综述了各项技术在化妆品或其他相关领域的相应环节中的应用。这些信息将有助于了解化妆品领域的数字化进展,为信息技术和数字化技术在化妆品领域的使用提供新的见解。

    With the development of information technology and digital technology, various industries have used these technologies in many segments such as research and development, production, management, and sales. The cosmetics industry chain includes the mechanism research of skin condition and problems, raw material development, formula design, supervision and evaluation of efficacy and safety, company management, product production, publicity and sales, etc., involving chemistry, medicine, skin science, material science, law, art and media, etc. This article introduces the concepts of each technology from the perspective of biological information technology such as omics and network pharmacology and digital management, A.I. and machine learning, big data and other digital technologies, and summarizes the application of each technology in the corresponding segments in cosmetics or other related fields, such as food, and pharmaceuticals. Modern bio-information technology and digital technology have played an active role in saving costs, streamlining processes, improving efficiency, and promoting innovation in the corresponding segments. This information will help understand the digital progress in the cosmetics field and provide new insights into the use of information technology and digital technology in the cosmetics field.

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    类菌胞素氨基酸的性质及其在化妆品领域中应用的 研究进展
    Research progress in cosmetics applications and properties of mycosporine-like amino acids
    范高宁
    2022 (12):  1366-1372.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.12.016
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    类菌胞素氨基酸(mycosporine-like amino acids,MAAs)是一类水生生物次级代谢产物,广泛存在于多种水生生物中。它们是由氨基环己烯酮或氨基环己亚胺环组成。据研究,类菌胞素氨基酸具有罕见的紫外光防护作用,本文主要介绍类菌胞素氨基酸的来源、结构、理化性质、生物合成途径、生物活性及其在化妆品领域应用的研究进展。

    Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are a class of secondary metabolites of aquatic organisms, which are widely distributed in algae, phytoplankton, cyanobacteria, microorganisms and marine animals. MAAs are low-molecular-weight (generally<400 Da), colorless and water-soluble compounds. They are highly stable molecules under environmental conditions. They are composed of either an aminocyclohexenone or an aminocyclohexenimine ring. Multiple lines of evidence have supported that MAAs are derived from intermediates of the shikimate pathway and the pentose phosphate pathway. MAAs maximally absorb in the wavelength region of 268-362 nm and also exhibit high molar absorptivities (12 400-58 800 L/(mol·cm)). Therefore, due to these characteristics, they are the strongest UVA-absorbing compounds in nature. MAAs have potential for development as natural biocompatible sunscreens that protect against a diverse range of solar UVR which has induced adverse effects on human health. In addition, MAAs have additional protective roles such as antioxidant function and anti-aging. Herein, the research on the distribution, chemical structure, physico-chemical characteristics, biosynthesis, bioactivities of MAAs and their application in cosmetics are mainly introduced.

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