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日用化学工业（中英文）

日用化学工业（中英文） ›› 2023, Vol. 53 ›› Issue (1): 32-40.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2023.01.005

• 开发与应用 • 上一篇    下一篇

基于UPLC-QTOF-MS强脉冲光照射对女性面部脂质影响

胡艺琼1,丁文玉1,于笑乾1,田燕2,何聪芬1,*()   

  1. 1.北京工商大学 化学与材料工程学院 中国轻工业化妆品重点实验室，北京 100048
    2.中国人民解放军空军特色医学中心 皮肤病医院医疗美容科，北京 100142
  • 收稿日期:2022-07-26 修回日期:2023-01-09 出版日期:2023-01-22 发布日期:2023-01-31
  • 通讯作者: *Tel.: +86-18800110801, E-mail: congfenhe@126.com.

Effects of intense pulsed light irradiation on female facial lipids based on UPLC-QTOF-MS

Hu Yiqiong1,Ding Wenyu1,Yu Xiaoqian1,Tian Yan2,He Congfen1,*()   

  1. 1. China Key Laboratory of Light Industry Cosmetics, School of Chemical and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China
    2. Medical Cosmetology Department of Dermatology Hospital, The Chinese People’s Liberation Army Air Force Medical Center, Beijing 100142, China
  • Received:2022-07-26 Revised:2023-01-09 Online:2023-01-22 Published:2023-01-31
  • Contact: *Tel.: +86-18800110801, E-mail: congfenhe@126.com.

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摘要：

强脉冲光（IPL）是波长为（500~1 200） nm的连续、多波长的非相干性宽谱光。本研究共招募了31名女性志愿者（平均年龄（23.39±1.41）岁），在空军特色医学中心统一进行IPL半脸照射，对其IPL照射前（PI组）与照射一周后（AI组）：对角质层含水量、经表皮水分散失、皮脂含量、pH值、红斑指数、黑素指数生理指标变化进行比较分析；通过超高效液相色谱串联四极杆飞行时间质谱（UPLC-QTOF-MS）结合正交偏最小二乘判别分析（OPLS-DA）模式对PI和AI组面部皮肤表面脂质（SSL）进行分析。生理指标数据分析表明， AI组角质层含水量（P=0.024）显著增加、黑素指数（P<0.001）、红斑指数（P<0.001）显著降低，而TEWL值、pH值、皮脂含量无显著变化；面部SSL结果分析表明，一共鉴定出1 704种总脂质，筛选出60种差异性脂质。差异性脂质可分为7大类，其中有5大类脂质：脂肪酰类（fatty acids, FA）、鞘脂类（sphingolipids, SP）、固醇脂类（sterol lipids, ST）、孕烯醇酮脂类（prenol lipids, PR）、多聚乙烯类（polyketides, PK）在IPL照射前后含量差异显著，均为AI低于PI；16种亚类在IPL照射前后含量差异显著，均为AI低于PI；神经酰胺（CERs）是主要的差异性脂质，含量为AI低于PI，推测CERs含量降低与皮肤屏障受损相关，这为有脂质添加的IPL照射后护理产品研发提供新思路。

关键词: 皮肤脂质, 强脉冲光, 超高效液相色谱串联四极杆飞行时间质谱, 护理产品

Abstract:

Intense pulsed light （IPL） is a continuous, multi-wavelength, incoherent broad-spectrum light with a wavelength of （500 to 1 200） nm. In this research, a total of 31 female volunteers at the age of 23.39±1.41 years were recruited to get half-face IPL irradiation at the Air Force Medical Center, PLA. Indexes as stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss （TEWL）, sebum content, pH value, erythema index and melanin index were observed and discussed, together with the analysis of facial skin surface lipid （SSL） conducted by ultra-performance liquid chromatography with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry （UPLC-QTOF-MS） combined with OPLS-DA （Orthogonal Partial Least Squares-Discriminant Analysis） mode based on samples prior of （PI） and after （AI, One week after IPL irradiation） IPL irradiation. The results indicate that water content of the stratum corneum （P=0.024） significantly increase in AI compared with PI. However, the remarkable decrease of melanin index （P<0.001） and erythema index （P<0.001） in AI is detected. And there are no sufficient changes in TEWL value, pH value, and sebum content. Additionally, a total of 1 704 lipids are detected and 60 different facial SSL lipids are further screened between PI and AI. Differential lipids are divided into 7 categories, of which 5 major types -[FA], [SP], [ST], [PR], [PK] are excessively degraded after IPL irradiation. The content of 16 subclass is significantly different between PI and AI, all of which are AI lower than PI. Ceramides （CERs） are the main differential lipids, and the content in AI is lower than PI. While the CERs levels are related to skin barrier damage. This provides new ideas for the development of lipid-added skincare products after IPL irradiation.

Key words: skin lipids, IPL, UPLC-QTOF-MS, skincare products

中图分类号: 

  • TQ658