脂质对皮肤状态的影响及对相关化妆品研发的指导

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.10.011

日用化学工业 ›› 2020, Vol. 50 ›› Issue (10): 717-724.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.10.011

脂质对皮肤状态的影响及对相关化妆品研发的指导

胡雪情^1,²(),周明月^1,²,杨曼丽^1,²,陈风^1,²,何聪芬^1,²,贾焱^1,²()

1.北京工商大学化学与材料工程学院中国轻工业化妆品重点实验室,北京 100048
2.北京工商大学化学与材料工程学院北京市植物资源研究开发重点实验室,北京 100048

收稿日期:2020-01-03 修回日期:2020-09-21 出版日期:2020-10-22 发布日期:2020-10-22
通讯作者: 贾焱
作者简介:胡雪情（1997-）,女,河南人,硕士研究生,电话：18438653679,E-mail： hxq18438653679@163.com。
基金资助:
北京市教育委员会科研项目资助(SQKM201610011008);科技创新服务能力-校级杰青优青培育项目资助(19008020111)

Effects of lipids on skin condition and guidance on the development of related cosmetics

HU Xue-qing^1,²(),ZHOU Ming-yue^1,²,YANG Man-li^1,²,CHEN Feng^1,²,HE Cong-fen^1,²,JIA Yan^1,²()

1. Key Laboratory of Cosmetic, China National Light Industry, College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China
2. Beijing Key Laboratory of Plants Resource Research and Development, College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China

Received:2020-01-03 Revised:2020-09-21 Online:2020-10-22 Published:2020-10-22
Contact: Yan JIA

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

皮肤脂质通过不同的机制显著影响皮肤状态,进一步的研究需要使用脂质组学—— 一种更强大高通量、高分辨率的脂质分析工具,全面鉴定数千种皮肤脂质成分。通过对脂质结构和功能的验证,以研究单个脂质组分对皮肤状态的影响。文章从物理化学、生物化学、微生态3个功能方面综述皮肤脂质对皮肤状态的作用及其机制,并对脂质组学数据如何促进皮肤脂质对皮肤状态影响机制的研究进行阐述,指导相关化妆品的研发。

关键词: 皮肤脂质, 皮肤状态, 化妆品, 脂质组学

Abstract:

Skin lipids dramatically influence the skin condition by different mechanisms. Further research needs the use of lipidomics which has more powerful analytical ability and high-throughput manner, to identify skin lipid components into individual species. The validation of structure and function of lipids was operated to study the process that individual lipid species was involved in. The effects and mechanisms of skin lipids on skin conditions were reviewed from three aspects of functions in physical chemistry, biochemistry and microecology. Additionally, the integration of lipidomics data with other omics strategies could develop the power to study the mechanism of skin lipids influencing skin condition, which could guide the relevant research and development of cosmetics.

Key words: skin lipid, skin condition, cosmetics, lipidomics

中图分类号:

TQ658

胡雪情,周明月,杨曼丽,陈风,何聪芬,贾焱. 脂质对皮肤状态的影响及对相关化妆品研发的指导[J]. 日用化学工业, 2020, 50(10): 717-724.

HU Xue-qing,ZHOU Ming-yue,YANG Man-li,CHEN Feng,HE Cong-fen,JIA Yan. Effects of lipids on skin condition and guidance on the development of related cosmetics[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2020, 50(10): 717-724.

参考文献 59

[1]	Han Xianlin. Lipidomics for studying metabolism[J]. Nature Reviews. Endocrinology, 2016,12(11) : 668-679. doi: 10.1038/nrendo.2016.98 pmid: 27469345
[2]	Yang Kui, Han Xianlin. Lipidomics: techniques, applications, and outcomes related to biomedical sciences[J]. Trends in Biochemical Sciences, 2016,41(11) : 954-969. doi: 10.1016/j.tibs.2016.08.010 pmid: 27663237
[3]	Ahn B, Soundarapandian M M, Sessions H, et al. MondoA coordinately regulates skeletal myocyte lipid homeostasis and insulin signaling[J]. The Journal of Clinical Investigation, 2016,126(9) : 3567-3579. pmid: 27500491
[4]	Wang Miao, Han Xianlin. Advanced shotgun lipidomics for characterization of altered lipid patterns in neurodegenerative diseases and brain injury[J]. Methods in Molecular Biology (Clifton, N. J.), 2016,1303:405-422.
[5]	Camera E, Ludovici M, Tortorella S, et al. Use of lipidomics to investigate sebum dysfunction in juvenile acne[J]. Journal of Lipid Research, 2016,7(6) : 1051-1058.
[6]	Li Xinchao, He Congfen, Chen Zhou, et al. A review of the role of sebum in the mechanism of acne pathogenesis[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2017,16(2) : 168-173. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12345 pmid: 28556292
[7]	Cui Le, Jia Yan, Cheng Zhiwei, et al. Advancements in the maintenance of skin barrier/skin lipid composition and the involvement of metabolic enzymes[J]. J. Cosmet. Dermatol, 2016,15:549-558. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12245 pmid: 27405934
[8]	Achermann, Goldstein E J, Coenye T, et al. Propionibacterium acnes: from commensal to opportunistic biofilm-associated implant pathogen[J]. Clinical Microbiology Reviews, 2014,27:419-440. doi: 10.1128/CMR.00092-13 pmid: 24982315
[9]	Chandrasekaran S K, Bayne W, Shaw J E. Pharmacokinetics of drug permeation through human skin[J]. J. Pharm. Sci., 1978,67(10) : 1370-1374. pmid: 702282
[10]	Fan L, He C, Jiang L, et al. Brief analysis of causes of sensitive skin and advances in evaluation of anti-allergic activity of cosmetic products[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016,38:120-127. doi: 10.1111/ics.12283 pmid: 26444676
[11]	Schreiner V, Gooris G S, Pfeiffer S, et al. Barrier characteristics of different human skin types investigated with X-ray diffraction, lipid analysis, and electron microscopy imaging[J]. The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2000,114:654-660. doi: 10.1046/j.1523-1747.2000.00941.x pmid: 10733669
[12]	Walter Boiten, Samira Absalah, Rob Vreeken, et al. Quantitative analysis of ceramides using a novel lipidomics approach with three dimensional response modelling[J]. BBA-Molecular and Cell Biology of Lipids, 2016,1861(11) : 1652-1661. doi: 10.1016/j.bbalip.2016.07.004 pmid: 27422369
[13]	Sochorová Michaela, Staňková Klára, Pullmannová Petra, et al. Permeability barrier and microstructure of skin lipid membrane models of impaired glucosylceramide processing[J]. Sci. Rep., 2017,7(1) : 6470. doi: 10.1038/s41598-017-06990-7 pmid: 28744000
[14]	Matthew H Meckfessel, Staci Brandt. The structure, function, and importance of ceramides in skin and their use as therapeutic agents in skin-care products[J]. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2014,71(1) : 177-184. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2014.01.891 pmid: 24656726
[15]	Motta S, Monti M, Sesana S, et al. Abnormality of water barrier function in psoriasis. Role of ceramide fractions[J]. Archives of Dermatology, 1994,130:452-456. pmid: 8166482
[16]	Mojumdar E H, Kariman Z, Kerckhove van L, et al. The role of ceramide chain length distribution on the barrier properties of the skin lipid membranes[J]. BBA-Biomembranes, 2014,1838(10) : 2473-2483. doi: 10.1016/j.bbamem.2014.05.023 pmid: 24875266
[17]	van Smeden Jeroen, Janssens Michelle, Kaye Edward C J, et al. The importance of free fatty acid chain length for the skin barrier function in atopic eczema patients[J]. Experimental Dermatology, 2014,23:45-52. doi: 10.1111/exd.12293 pmid: 24299153
[18]	Daniël Groen, Dana S Poole, Gert S Gooris, et al. Is an orthorhombic lateral packing and a proper lamellar organization important for the skin barrier function?[J]. BBA-Biomembranes, 2011,1808(6) : 1529-1537. doi: 10.1016/j.bbamem.2010.10.015
[19]	Masashi Oguri, Gert S Gooris, Kotatsu Bito, et al. The effect of the chain length distribution of free fatty acids on the mixing properties of stratum corneum model membranes[J]. BBA-Biomembranes, 2014,1838:1851-1861. doi: 10.1016/j.bbamem.2014.02.009
[20]	Vivian Y Shi, Michael Leo, Lauren Hassoun, et al. Role of sebaceous glands in inflammatory dermatoses[J]. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2015,73:856-863. doi: 10.1016/j.jaad.2015.08.015 pmid: 26386632
[21]	Ohsawa K, Watanabe T, Matsukawa R, et al. The possible role of squalene and its peroxide of the sebum in the occurrence of sunburn and protection from the damage caused by U.V. irradiation[J]. The Journal of Toxicological Sciences, 1984,9(2) : 151-159. doi: 10.2131/jts.9.151
[22]	Li S, Villarreal M, Stewart S, et al. Altered composition of epidermal lipids correlates with Staphylococcus aureus colonization status in atopic dermatitis[J]. The British Journal of Dermatology, 2017,177(4) : 125-127.
[23]	Tawada Chisato, Kanoh Hiroyuki, Nakamura Mitsuhiro, et al. Interferon-γ decreases ceramides with long-chain fatty acids: possible involvement in atopic dermatitis and psoriasis[J]. The Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2014,134(3) : 712-718. doi: 10.1038/jid.2013.364 pmid: 24008422
[24]	Danso Mogbekeloluwa, Boiten Walter, van Drongelen Vincent, et al. Altered expression of epidermal lipid bio-synjournal enzymes in atopic dermatitis skin is accompanied by changes in stratum corneum lipid composition[J]. J. Dermatol. Sci., 2017,88:57-66. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2017.05.005 pmid: 28571749
[25]	Chuong C M, Nickoloff B J, Elias P M, et al. What is the ‘true’ function of skin?[J]. Experimental Dermatology (Print), 2002,11(2) : 159-160.
[26]	Sertznig P, J Reichrath. Peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPARs) in dermatology: Challenge and promise[J]. Dermatoendocrinol, 2011,3:130-135. doi: 10.4161/derm.3.3.15025 pmid: 22110772
[27]	Mansour Mahmoud. The roles of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors in the metabolic syndrome[J]. Progress in Molecular Biology and Translational Science, 2014,121:217-266. doi: 10.1016/B978-0-12-800101-1.00007-7 pmid: 24373239
[28]	Sahebkar Amirhossein, Chew Gerard T, Watts Gerald F. New peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor agonists: potential treatments for atherogenic dyslipidemia and non-alcoholic fatty liver disease[J]. Expert Opinion on Pharmacotherapy, 2014,15(4) : 493-503. doi: 10.1517/14656566.2014.876992 pmid: 24428677
[29]	Matthias Schmuth, Verena Moosbrugger-Martinz, Stefan Blunder, et al. Role of PPAR, LXR, and PXR in epidermal homeostasis and inflammation[J]. BBA-Molecular and Cell Biology of Lipids, 2014,1841(3) : 463-473. doi: 10.1016/j.bbalip.2013.11.012 pmid: 24315978
[30]	Adachi Yasuko, Hatano Yutaka, Sakai Takashi, et al. Expressions of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors (PPARs) are directly influenced by permeability barrier abrogationand inflammatory cytokines and depressed PPARalpha modulates expressions of chemokines and epidermal differentiation-related molecules in keratinocytes[J]. Experimental Dermatology, 2013,22(9) : 606-608. pmid: 23947677
[31]	Briganti Stefania, Flori Enrica, Mastrofrancesco Arianna, et al. Azelaic acid reduced senescence-like phenotype in photo-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts: possible implication of PPARγ[J]. Exp. Dermatol., 2013,22:41-47. doi: 10.1111/exd.12066 pmid: 23278893
[32]	Chen WenChieh, Yang Chao-Chun, Sheu Hamm-Ming, et al. Expression of peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor and CCAAT/enhancer binding protein transcription factors in cultured human sebocytes[J]. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 2003,121(3) : 441-447. doi: 10.1046/j.1523-1747.2003.12411.x pmid: 12925198
[33]	Pistis M, Melis M. From surface to nuclear receptors: the endocannabinoid family extends its assets[J]. Current Medicinal Chemistry, 2010,17(14) : 1450-1467. doi: 10.2174/092986710790980014 pmid: 20166922
[34]	Dobrosi Nóra, Tóth Balázs I, Nagy Georgina, et al. Endocannabinoids enhance lipid synjournal and apoptosis of human sebocytes via cannabinoid receptor-2-mediated signaling[J]. FASEB J, 2008,22:3685-3695. doi: 10.1096/fj.07-104877 pmid: 18596221
[35]	Alestas Theodosios, Ganceviciene Ruta, Fimmel Sabine, et al. Enzymes involved in the biosynjournal of leukotriene B4 and prostaglandin E2 are active in sebaceous glands[J]. J. Mol. Med., 2006,84:75-87. pmid: 16388388
[36]	Funk C D. Prostaglandins and leukotrienes: advances in eicosanoid biology[J]. Science, 2001,294:1871-1875. doi: 10.1126/science.294.5548.1871 pmid: 11729303
[37]	Zhang Qiwei, Seltmann Holger, Zouboulis Christos C, et al. Involvement of PPARgamma in oxidative stress-mediated prostaglandin E (2) production in SZ95 human sebaceous gland cells[J]. J. Invest Dermatol, 2006,126:42-48. pmid: 16417216
[38]	Cha Hwa Jun, He Congfen, Zhao Hua, et al. Intercellular and intracellular functions of ceramides and their metabolites in skin (Review)[J]. International Journal of Molecular Medicine, 2016,38(1) : 16-22. doi: 10.3892/ijmm.2016.2600 pmid: 27222347
[39]	Modrak David E, Cardillo Thomas M, Newsome Guy A, et al. Synergistic interaction between sphingomyelin and gemcitabine potentiates ceramide-mediated apoptosis in pancreatic cancer[J]. Cancer Research, 2004,64(22) : 8405-8410. doi: 10.1158/0008-5472.CAN-04-2988 pmid: 15548711
[40]	Scheel-Toellner Dagmar, Wang Keqing, Craddock Rachel, et al. Reactive oxygen species limit neutrophil life span by activating death receptor signaling[J]. Blood, 2004,104(8) : 2557-2564. doi: 10.1182/blood-2004-01-0191 pmid: 15238425
[41]	Siskind Leah J, Kolesnick Richard N, Colombini Marco. Ceramide channels increase the permeability of the mitochondrial outer membrane to small proteins[J]. Journal of Biological Chemistry, 2002,277(30) : 26796-26803. doi: 10.1074/jbc.M200754200 pmid: 12006562
[42]	Hankins Jody L, Fox Todd E, Barth Brian M, et al. Exogenous ceramide-1-phosphate reduces lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-mediated cytokine expression[J]. The Journal of Biological Chemistry, 2011,286(52) : 44357-44366. doi: 10.1074/jbc.M111.264010 pmid: 22065582
[43]	Sauer Bettina Vogler Rüdiger von Wenckstern Henrik, et al. Involvement of Smad signaling in sphingosine 1-phosphate-mediated biological responses of keratinocytes[J]. J. Biol. Chem., 2004,279:38471-38479. doi: 10.1074/jbc.M313557200 pmid: 15247277
[44]	Moissl-Eichinger Christine, Probst Alexander J, Birarda Giovanni, et al. Human age and skin physiology shape diversity and abundance of archaea on skin[J]. Science Letter, 2017,7(1) : 4039.
[45]	Elsner Peter. Antimicrobials and the skin physiological and pathological flora[J]. Current Problems in Dermatology, 2006,33:35-41. doi: 10.1159/000093929 pmid: 16766879
[46]	Mukherjee Souvik, Mitra Rupak, Maitra Arindam, et al. Sebum and hydration levels in specific regions of human face significantly predict the nature and diversity of facial skin microbiome[J]. Scientific Reports, 2016,6:36062. doi: 10.1038/srep36062 pmid: 27786295
[47]	Moran Josephine C, Alorabi Jamal A, Horsburgh Malcolm J. Comparative transcriptomics reveals discrete survival responses of S.aureus and S.epidermidis to sapienic acid[J]. Front Microbiol, 2017,8:33-44. doi: 10.3389/fmicb.2017.00033 pmid: 28179897
[48]	Stettler Hans, Kurka Peter, Lunau Nathalie, et al. A new topical panthenol-containing emollient: Results from two randomized controlled studies assessing its skin moisturization and barrier restoration potential, and the effect on skin microflora[J]. J Dermatolog Treat, 2017,28(2) : 173-180. doi: 10.1080/09546634.2016.1214235 pmid: 27425824
[49]	Shu Muya, Wang Yanhan, Yu Jinghua, et al. Fermentation of propionibacterium acnes, a commensal bacterium in the human skin microbiome, as skin probiotics against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus[J]. PLOS ONE, 2013,8:e55380. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0055380 pmid: 23405142
[50]	Yuichi Nodake, Saki Matsumoto, Ryoko Miura, et al. Pilot study on novel skin care method by augmentation with Staphylococcus epidermidis, an autologous skin microbe: A blinded randomized clinical trial[J]. Journal of Dermatological Science, 2015,79(2) : 119-126. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2015.05.001 pmid: 26012780
[51]	Triebl Alexander, Trötzmüller Martin, Hartler Jürgen, et al. Lipidomics by ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-high resolution mass spectrometry and its application to complex biological samples[J]. J. Chromatogr. B Analyt. Technol. Biomed. Life Sci., 2017,1053:72-80. doi: 10.1016/j.jchromb.2017.03.027 pmid: 28415015
[52]	Jia Zhixin, Zhang Jinlan, Shen Chunping, et al. Profile and quantification of human stratum corneum ceramides by normal-phase liquid chromatography coupled with dynamic multiple reaction monitoring of mass spectrometry: development of targeted lipidomic method and application to human stratum corneum of different age groups[J]. Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry, 2016,408(24) : 6623-6636. doi: 10.1007/s00216-016-9775-6 pmid: 27473427
[53]	Jia Yan, Zhou Mingyue, Huang Hong, et al. Characterization of circadian human facial surface lipid composition[J]. Experimental Dermatology, 2019,28:858-862. doi: 10.1111/exd.13933 pmid: 30972810
[54]	Fan L, He C, Jiang L, et al. Brief analysis of causes of sensitive skin and advances in evaluation of anti-allergic activity of cosmetic products[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016,38(2) : 120-127. doi: 10.1111/ics.12283 pmid: 26444676
[55]	Zhou M, Wang H, Yang M, et al. Lipidomic analysis of facial skin surface lipids reveals an altered lipid profile in infant acne[J]. The British Journal of Dermatology, 2020,182(2) : 817-818. doi: 10.1111/bjd.v182.3
[56]	Zhou M, Gan Y, He C, et al. Lipidomics reveals skin surface lipid abnormity in acne in young men[J]. The British Journal of Dermatology, 2018,179(3) : 732-740. doi: 10.1111/bjd.16655 pmid: 29624645
[57]	Jia Yan, Gan Yao, He Congfen, et al. The mechanism of skin lipids influencing skin status[J]. J. Dermatol. Sci., 2018,89:112-119. doi: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2017.11.006 pmid: 29174114
[58]	Soumen Mukherjee, Palashpriya Das, Ramkrishna Sen. Towards commercial production of microbial surfactants[J]. Trends in Biotechnology, 2006,24(11) : 509-515. doi: 10.1016/j.tibtech.2006.09.005 pmid: 16997405
[59]	Desai J D, Banat I M. Microbial production of surfactants and their commercial potential[J]. Microbiology and Molecular Biology Reviews, 1997,61(1) : 47-64. pmid: 9106364

脂质对皮肤状态的影响及对相关化妆品研发的指导

Effects of lipids on skin condition and guidance on the development of related cosmetics

RichHTML

PDF (PC)

赞

可视化

摘要/Abstract

引用本文

使用本文

参考文献 59

相关文章 15

Metrics

本文评价

推荐阅读 10

[1]	柳婧璇, 金建明, 吴华. 化妆品植物原料（Ⅶ）——抗真菌的植物原料的研究与开发[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(3): 259-266.
[2]	毕武, 潘小红, 涂晓琴, 殷帅, 孙辉. 基于网络药理学的化妆品原料粉防己抗敏作用机制分析[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(3): 305-312.
[3]	李瑶瑶. 异橙黄酮的抗衰老及抗氧化功效研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(3): 313-319.
[4]	许梦然, 赵华. 化妆品晒后修护功效评价方法研究进展[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(3): 329-336.
[5]	张丽媛, 颜琳琦, 程巧鸳, 戚绿叶, 王容, 黄柳倩. 高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中14种α-羟基酸和羟基酸酯[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(3): 353-359.
[6]	徐炜, 邹坡, 李长于, 杨铭, 鹿燕, 李慧良. 超高效液相色谱-串联质谱法测定化妆品中36种兴奋剂[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(3): 360-368.
[7]	周康夫, 支奕轩, 王飞飞, 尚亚卓. 新型乳化体系及其在化妆品中的应用（Ⅵ）——微乳液[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(2): 139-148.
[8]	谢珍, 黄微, 张劲松, 陈舒怀, 瞿霖吉, 匡荣. 化妆品眼刺激性评价中角膜损伤生物标志物研究[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(2): 161-167.
[9]	潘小红, 高梓琪, 陈真, 殷帅, 黄海萍, 胡斌. 我国化妆品产品稳定性研究与管理现状的探讨[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(2): 201-208.
[10]	芦丽, 方方, 冯有龙, 曹玲. 前体离子扫描超高效液相色谱-三重四级杆串联质谱法快速筛查化妆品中非法添加的磺胺类药物[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(2): 216-223.
[11]	王任, 吴鸳鸯, 乔佳, 颜琳琦, 陈岑, 张丽媛. 市售儿童化妆品中苯氧乙醇的测定及初步风险特征评估[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(2): 224-230.
[12]	鲁毅翔, 伍丽婷, 蒋济民, 陈海露, 黄璇. 化妆品中托萘酯、利拉萘酯的高效液相色谱定量及高效液相色谱-串联质谱确证[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(2): 231-238.
[13]	张丽媛, 程巧鸳, 陈岑, 李泽桦, 黄柳倩, 戚绿叶. 高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中3种α-羟基酸及其酯[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(1): 102-106.
[14]	陆林玲, 鲁辉, 闵春艳, 钱叶飞. UHPLC-MS/MS法测定面膜化妆品中甘草、人参和黄芩类功效成分[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(1): 107-113.
[15]	龙慧端, 鲁毅翔, 覃江兰, 张科明. 高效液相色谱法同时测定化妆品中24种香豆素类化合物及质谱确证[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2024, 54(1): 114-122.