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    2024年, 第54卷, 第9期 刊出日期:2024-09-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    二氧化硅包载对维生素C稳定性提高的研究
    Study on the silicon dioxide encapsulation for the enhancement of vitamin C stability
    石美玲, 陈娟博, 李皓, 黄员琴, 张启清, 曾飒, 孟涛
    2024 (9):  1015-1022.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.001
    摘要 ( 3136 )   HTML ( 15 )   PDF(2190KB) ( 55 )  

    针对化妆护肤用品中亲水活性成分维生素C(Vc)稳定性差的问题,采用二氧化硅负载Vc(Vc@SiO2)并通过硅烷改性(Vc@s-SiO2)分散在辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯(GTCC)油相体系中提升其稳定性。实验结果表明:Vc负载于二氧化硅中,包封率为68.2%、载药率为13.6%;改性后Vc@s-SiO2表面疏水,接触角由33.6°增大为130.7°;分别在紫外光照射和50 ℃下静置时,Vc@s-SiO2相较于游离Vc能相应提高11.4倍和27.7倍相对抗氧化活性。研究表明二氧化硅负载Vc并分散于GTCC中能够隔绝水和氧等不利因素,降低活性损失,提高Vc的稳定性。

    To improve the stability of vitamin C(Vc) in cosmetics, Vc was coated with silica dioxide (Vc@SiO2), modified by silane (Vc@s-SiO2) and dispersed in decanoyl/octanoyl-glycerides (GTCC) oil phase system. The experimental results show that the encapsulation rate and drug loading rate are 68.2% and 13.6%, respectively, when Vc is encapsulated into silica dioxide. After modification, the surface of Vc@s-SiO2 is hydrophobic and the contact angle increases from 33.6° to 130.7°. When Vc is maintained at 50 ℃ or exposed to ultraviolet light, Vc@s-SiO2 exhibits an increase in antioxidant activity by 11.4 times and 27.7 times, respectively, compared to free Vc. This study reveals that silica dioxide coated Vc and dispersed in GTCC can isolate the adverse factors such as water oxygen, reduce the activity loss and improve the stability of Vc.

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    科技讲座
    天然生物质材料的制备、性质与应用(Ⅸ)——易溶稳定的多功能天然多糖胶:葫芦巴胶
    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅸ)The soluble, stable, multi-functional natural polysaccharide gum: fenugreek gum
    高宇, 周业杰, 李元铭, 刘骑源, 刘雅迪, 范金石
    2024 (9):  1023-1029.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.002
    摘要 ( 2643 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(1152KB) ( 38 )  

    葫芦巴胶是从豆科植物葫芦巴胚乳中提取出的一种水溶性天然多糖胶。因葫芦巴胶具有良好的水溶性、持水性、增稠性、热稳定性和乳化力、成膜性等理化性能,以及降血糖、降血脂、抗氧化等药理作用,并可以通过物理、化学、共混和酶法等多种改性技术进一步改善其理化性质、提升其功效作用,使得葫芦巴胶在日用化工、食品加工、医药、采油等行业领域越来越受到重视。本文浅述了葫芦巴胶的来源、分子结构及其典型理化性质,并总结了葫芦巴胶的主要提取、纯化方法及常用改性技术,同时概述了葫芦巴胶及其改性产物的应用情况,并提及了当前葫芦巴胶开发所面临的主要问题及今后的研发方向和发展前景。

    Fenugreek gum (FG) is one kind of water-soluble natural polysaccharides extracted from the endosperm of fenugreek legumes. It has appropriate physical and chemical properties, such as water solubility, water binding capacity, thickening ability, thermal stability, emulsifying ability, film-forming property, as well as salutary pharmacological actions like hypoglycemic activity, antihyperlipidemic effect, and antioxgenation property. Moreover, its physical, chemical properties and application performance can be significantly improved by physical modification, chemical modification, blending modification and enzymatic modification. Therefore, fenugreek gum has been gained more and more attention in many fields, including daily-use chemical industry, food processing industry, pharmaceutical industry, and oil recovery. In this paper, the name, extraction source, chemical structure, the main physicochemical properties of fenugreek gum along with its extraction and purification technologies, common modification methods are briefly presented. Furthermore, the application areas of fenugreek gum and its modified products, and the current challenges faced in its development, as well as the future research direction and prospects for the development of fenugreek gum are also discussed in this paper.

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    开发与应用
    重组人源化胶原蛋白基于体外水平的护肤功效研究
    Skin care efficacy study of recombinant humanized collagen based on in vitro level
    王建, 范毓慧, 李丹凤, 程宁文, 李玲, 于玉凤
    2024 (9):  1030-1038.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.003
    摘要 ( 2506 )   HTML ( 25 )   PDF(1489KB) ( 90 )  

    基于体外水平探究重组人源化胶原蛋白的护肤功效。首先通过不同温度对重组人源化胶原蛋白进行处理,分析其在不同温度条件下的稳定性,随后通过检测其对弹性蛋白酶的抑制率、胶原蛋白酶的抑制率、人成纤维细胞Ⅰ型胶原蛋白含量、体外角质形成细胞活性氧(ROS)抑制作用及对角质形成细胞透明质酸(HA)、丝聚蛋白(FLG)和转谷氨酰胺酶1(TGM1)表达量的影响,评价重组人源化胶原蛋白的体外护肤功效。结果显示,重组人源化胶原蛋白在70 ℃以内能保持其稳定性良好。在护肤功效方面,重组人源化胶原蛋白能够抑制弹性蛋白酶和胶原蛋白酶的活性,促进人成纤维细胞Ⅰ型胶原蛋白含量上升。同时,其对体外角质形成细胞ROS具有显著的抑制作用,并可以增加角质形成细胞HA、FLG和TGM1的表达量。总之,重组人源化胶原蛋白具有良好的体外护肤功效,本研究证明其具有潜在的紧致、抗皱、保湿及修护作用,是一种理想的化妆品原料。

    Studying the skin care efficacy of recombinant humanized collagen based on in vitro level. The stability of the recombinant humanized collagen was first analyzed by treating at different temperatures, then its skincare efficacy based on in vitro level was evaluated by detecting the inhibition rate of elastase, the inhibition rate of collagenase, the protein content of type I collagen in human fibroblasts, the inhibition of reactive oxygen species (ROS) with human keratinocytes, and the effects of the recombinant humanized collagen on the expression of hyaluronic acid (HA), filaggrin (FLG) and transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) in keratinocytes. The results showed that recombinant humanized collagen was able to maintain stability at temperatures below 70 ℃. With regard to its skincare efficacy, recombinant humanized collagen could inhibit elastase and collagenase activities and promote the increase of type I collagen content in human fibroblasts. It also showed good inhibition of ROS in keratinocytes in vitro and could increase the expression of HA, FLG, and TGM1 in keratinocytes. In short, the recombinant humanized collagen exhibited a favourable skin care effect in vitro level. This study proved that it has potential firming, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and repairing efficacy, and is a valuable cosmetic raw material.

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    洋甘菊总黄酮提取及其抗氧化活性研究
    Extraction and antioxidant activity of total flavonoids from chamomile
    李传茂, 邱志, 王枫亮, 林盛杰, 邓慧, 李映伟
    2024 (9):  1039-1049.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.004
    摘要 ( 78 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF(1477KB) ( 56 )  

    通过优化洋甘菊总黄酮的提取和分离纯化工艺,研究了先用超临界CO2去除洋甘菊脂溶性成分,再结合超声辅助提取洋甘菊总黄酮,用大孔树脂对洋甘菊总黄酮进行分离纯化,并对洋甘菊总黄酮成分进行了分析及表征。得到超临界CO2去除洋甘菊脂溶性成分的较佳工艺条件为:萃取温度50 ℃、萃取时间60 min、萃取压力25 MPa,洋甘菊除脂率为8.66%;超声辅助提取洋甘菊总黄酮的较佳工艺条件为:超声时间15 min、乙醇体积分数50%、料液比1∶25 (g∶mL)、超声功率200 W,总黄酮提取率为4.25%;选用AB-8树脂,纯化后洋甘菊总黄酮的纯度由6.04%提高到52.25%,而不结合超临界CO2萃取法的单一超声辅助提取法采用同样纯化工艺后洋甘菊总黄酮的纯度仅为25.47%。结果表明超临界CO2萃取法和超声辅助提取法的结合工艺能更加高效提取洋甘菊总黄酮,并能降低洋甘菊总黄酮的气味,纯化后的洋甘菊总黄酮可较好的清除DPPH及ABTS自由基,具有较强的抗氧化活性。

    By optimizing the extraction and purification process, the study first used supercritical CO2 to remove the lipophilic components of chamomile, and then combined with ultrasound assisted the extraction of total flavonoids from chamomile. The total flavonoids in chamomile were separated and purified using macroporous resin, and the total flavonoid components were analyzed and characterized. The optimal process conditions for obtaining supercritical CO2 to remove fat soluble components from chamomile are: extraction temperature of 50 ℃, extraction time of 60 minutes, extraction pressure of 25 MPa, and chamomile fat removal rate of 8.66%. The optimal process conditions for ultrasound assisted extraction of total flavonoids from chamomile are: ultrasound time of 15 minutes, ethanol volume fraction of 50%, solid-liquid ratio of 1∶25 (g∶mL), ultrasound power of 200 W, and total flavonoid extraction rate of 4.25%. After purification, the purity of total flavonoids in chamomile increase from 6.04% to 52.25%, while the purity of total flavonoids in chamomile is only 25.47% using the same purification process using a single ultrasound assisted extraction method without supercritical CO2 extraction. The results show that the combination of supercritical CO2 extraction and ultrasound assisted extraction can more efficiently extract total flavonoids from chamomile, and reduce the odor. The purified total flavonoids from chamomile can effectively scavenge DPPH and ABTS free radicals, and have strong antioxidant activity.

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    P7脂肽的合成工艺与生物活性研究
    Study on the synthesis and biological activity of P7 lipopeptide
    张文杰, 石峰, 咸瑞卿, 董玉香, 郭凯, 姬胜利
    2024 (9):  1050-1058.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.005
    摘要 ( 54 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1857KB) ( 53 )  

    对P7脂肽的合成工艺及生物活性进行研究。采用固相多肽法(SPPS)和疏水载体辅助液相法(LPPS)人工合成P7脂肽;利用分子对接技术将合成的化合物与受体蛋白(3OCG)进行对接;采用MTT法与Griess试剂法检测P7脂肽的生物毒性和抗炎活性。成功合成P7脂肽并对其进行质谱表征;SPPS法与LPPS法的收率分别为34.45%和66.31%,物料消耗量分别为129.12和83.08 g,废液产生量分别为7.12和3.38 L,PMI分别为30.81,10.29,E-因子分别为1 700.62,419.70;分子对接结果表明,P7脂肽与p38蛋白激酶(3OCG)的对接结合能最小,GHK分子与残基ARG67、LYS53和GLY36形成氢键,P7肽与残基ALAA34、TYRA35、THRA185形成氢键,P7脂肽与残基ARGA70、ARGA189、TYRA35、ARGA67、ASNA155、ASPA168形成氢键并与残基存在范德华力、pi-烷基、C-H键等相互作用力;P7脂肽在32 μmol/L浓度以内无生物毒性;不同浓度的P7脂肽对LPS诱导RAW264.7细胞炎症模型中NO的释放具有很好的下调作用。通过对P7脂肽的合成研究,表明LPPS法的总体收率比SPPS法收率高且物料消耗量及“三废”产生量少,更适合于工业化生产;分子对接与细胞实验结果表明设计合成的P7脂肽具有良好的抗炎抗骨质疏松活性。

    P7 lipopeptide was synthesized through solid-phase peptide synthesis (SPPS) and hydrophobic-support-assisted liquid-phase peptide synthesis (LPPS). Molecular docking technique was used for docking the product with 3OCG protein. MTT assay and Griess reagent were used to detect the biological toxicity and anti-inflammatory activity of P7 lipopeptide. The synthesized P7 lipopeptide was characterized by mass spectrometry. For SPPS and LPPS methods, the yields were 34.45% and 66.31%, respectively; the material consumptions were 129.12 g and 83.08 g, respectively; the waste liquid volumes were 7.12 L and 3.38 L, respectively; PMI were 30.81 and 10.29, respectively; E factors were 1 700.62 and 419.70, respectively. The results of molecular docking showed that the docking binding energy between P7 lipopeptide and p38 protein kinase (3OCG) was the smallest. P7 lipopeptide formed hydrogen bonds with residues ARGA70, ARGA189, TYRA35, ARGA67, ASNA155, and ASPA168, and interacted with residues by van der Waals forces, π-alkyl groups, and carbon hydrogen bonds. P7 lipopeptide had no biological toxicity within the concentration of 32 μmol/L. Different concentrations of P7 lipopeptide could significantly downregulating the release of NO in LPS-induced RAW264.7 cell inflammatory model. In summary, the LPPS method had higher yield and lower raw material consumption compared with SPPS method, making it suitable for industrial production. The results of molecular docking and cell experiments indicated that the designed P7 lipopeptide had good anti-inflammatory and antiosteoporosis activities.

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    氨基酸组合物护发功效及机理探究
    Study on the efficacy and mechanism of an amino acid combination in hair care
    范加谊, 喻文莘, 卞筱颖, 岳岭佳, 王靖, 常宽
    2024 (9):  1059-1068.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.006
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    为了研究氨基酸组合物对损伤头发的修护功效,通过拉伸测试、梳理测试等方法评价了氨基酸原料对于发丝的修护效果,实验结果表明:测试中氨基酸组合物原料可以使屈服区拉力提升29.4%,使头发的梳理功分别下降22.4%(干梳)、18.1%(湿梳)。通过谱学表征以及荧光渗透试验和应力松弛试验的结果,可以认为氨基酸组合物通过渗透进入发丝的方式,修护其中被破坏的化学键、提高分子间作用力从而达到增韧的效果,并使得发丝脂质向头发表面聚集,对头发表面性质起到修护效果,改善了头发的梳理性,特别是对烫发染发导致的受损头发具有显著的修护效果。

    The effect of a mixture of amino acids in hair care was studied. The repair effect of this raw material on hair was evaluated by stretching test and combing test. The experimental results showed that, the amino acid combination could increase the tension in the yield zone by 29.4% and reduce the combing work of hair by 22.4% (dry combing) and 18.1% (wet combing). According to the results of spectral characterization, fluorescent penetration test and stress relaxation test, it could be concluded that the amino acid combination could repair the broken bonds by permeating into the hair and thus achieve the effect of toughening, and make the hair lipid transfer to the hair surface, which lead to a repairing effect on the hair surface and improved the hair combability. In particular, it had significant repair effect on the damaged hair caused by perm and hair coloring.

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    构树花粗多糖对紫外线诱导小鼠皮肤光损伤的保护作用及机制研究
    The protective effect and mechanism of crude polysaccharide from Broussonetia papyrifera flower on UV-induced skin photodamage
    赖梓漩, 宋雨轩, 段雪伟, 刘诗芸, 刘冰, 张敏君, 杨慧文
    2024 (9):  1069-1077.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.007
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    研究构树花粗多糖对紫外线诱导小鼠皮肤光损伤的保护作用,并探讨其作用机制。采用雌性昆明鼠建立长波紫外线(UVA)诱导小鼠皮肤光损伤模型,并对小鼠背部皮肤进行评分。采用苏木素-伊红(HE)、Masson染色考察小鼠皮肤组织病理学变化、皮肤厚度和胶原纤维的变化;考察皮肤组织Hyp、抗氧化酶SOD、GSH-Px、CAT和MDA,TNF-α、IL-1β、IL-6的含量,MMPs、Nrf2、HO-1和NF-κB通路相关蛋白的表达。结果显示,构树花粗多糖凝胶可不同程度改善皮肤粗糙溃烂现象,抑制皮肤增厚,提高真皮层胶原含量,使胶原纤维排列趋于紧密;提高皮肤组织中SOD、GSH-Px和CAT活力,降低MDA含量(P<0.05);降低皮肤促炎因子TNF-α、IL-1β和IL-6含量(P<0.05);MMP-1和MMP-3含量明显降低(P<0.05),Nrf2蛋白和HO-1蛋白表达显著升高(P<0.01),p-p65/p65蛋白表达比例显著降低(P<0.05)。可见,构树花粗多糖对紫外线致小鼠皮肤光损伤具有显著的保护作用,其机制可能与构树花粗多糖激活Nrf2通路、增强SOD等抗氧化酶活性,抑制NF-κB通路有关。

    To investigate the protective effect of crude polysaccharide from Broussonetia papyrifera flower on skin photodamage, a total of 56 female Kunming mice were randomly divided into 7 groups: control group, model group, matrix gel group, vitamin A group, and crude polysaccharide low-dose, medium-dose and high-dose groups. The exposed back skin of the mice was irradiated by UVA to induce skin photodamage model, and the drugs were applied to the skin 1 hour before irradiation. After 8 weeks of continuous irradiation, the back skin was scored. The effects of crude polysaccharide from Broussonetia papyrifera flower on the back skin morphology, skin thickness and collagen fibers were investigated by hematoxylin-eosin and Masson staining. And the contents of skin hydroxyproline, SOD, GSH-Px, CAT, MDA, TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6, and the protein expressions of MMP-1/3, Nrf2, HO-1 and NF-κB pathway were also examined. Pre-treated skin with different dose of crude polysaccharide gel 1 hour before UVA irradiation can improve roughness and ulceration of the back skin to different degrees, ameliorate skin thickening, and dermal collagen damage. At the same time, the activities of SOD, GSH-Px and CAT in skin tissue are increased, and the content of MDA is decreased (P<0.05). The contents of pro-inflammatory cytokines, TNF-α, IL-1β and IL-6, are decreased (P<0.05). The contents of MMP-1 and MMP-3 are decreased significantly (P<0.05), the expression of Nrf2 and HO-1 protein are increased (P<0.01), and p-p65/p65 protein are decreased significantly (P<0.05) in the mouse back skin by pre-treatment with crude polysaccharide gel. The crude polysaccharide from Broussonetia papyrifera flower has a strong antioxidant activity in vitro, and a protective effect on UVA-induced mice skin photodamage in vivo. The mechanism may be related to the activation of Nrf2 and inhibition of NF-κB signaling pathway, leading to the regulation of antioxidative enzyme SOD and improvement of inflammatory response.

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    MQ硅树脂成膜剂的性能研究
    Research and evaluation the performance of MQ-type silicone resin
    何洁颖, 蔡佳静, 王飞飞
    2024 (9):  1078-1085.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.008
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    MQ硅树脂是四烷氧基硅烷(Q单元)和三甲基乙氧基硅烷(M单元)的共聚产物,出色的防水与持妆能力,致使其在化妆品领域作为成膜材料运用广泛,因此评估和筛选适宜的MQ类成膜剂对提升配方开发效率十分重要。通过凝胶渗透色谱、接触角测量仪、透气性分析仪等探究了21款市售MQ硅树脂的成膜性、成膜时间、疏水疏汗疏油性、透气性与分子量及分布状态等性能间的内在联系。结果表明,MQ硅树脂的性质与其分子量的大小和分布状态有一定关系,对于分子量较高、分布较窄的MQ硅树脂类成膜剂,其成膜脆性高、疏水疏汗性强、透气率低、成膜时间快。而在分子量减小,聚合物分散性指数几乎不变或者拓宽,即分布较宽的情况下,MQ硅树脂表现出较柔软、疏油性较好、疏水疏汗性一般、成膜时间较长、透气率较高的特征。

    MQ silicone resin is the copolymerization product of tetraalkoxysilane (Q unit) and trimethylethoxysilane (M unit). It has a special double-layer tightly cross-linked spherical network structure, which not only has excellent water resistance, thermal stability and compatibility, but also is long-lasting, safe and non-irritating. So it has become one of the indispensable film-forming ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Therefore, it is vital to evaluate and screen the MQ silicone resin for improving the efficiency of formulation development. The molecular structure and film morphology of 21 MQ silicone resins were analyzed by GPC, microscopy and air permeability analyzer. According to the results, the relationship between the molecular structure of MQ and its application properties, such as film forming time, film brittleness, air permeability, water resistance, sweat resistance and oil resistance, were explored. The results show that the properties or performance of MQ silicone resin are depended on the size and distribution of its molecular weight. For the MQ-type silicone resin filmogen with higher molecular weight and narrower distribution, its film properties of hardness, water resistance and sweat resistance are enhanced with the increase of molecular weight, but its air permeability is subsequently weakened and film forming time is shorter. When the molecular weight decreases and the polymer dispersity index is almost unchanged or broadened, the MQ silicone resin show softer film, better oil resistance, longer film-forming time and higher air permeability.

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    白茅根提取物抑菌抗炎活性在口腔护理品中研究与分析
    Study and analysis of antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activity of extracts of Rhizoma imperatae in oral care products
    魏志明, 王亚玲
    2024 (9):  1086-1091.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.009
    摘要 ( 45 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(1122KB) ( 27 )  

    采用体外评价方法对白茅根提取物在口腔护理品中的抑菌抗炎活性进行研究。采用水、50%乙醇、乙酸乙酯、丙酮、石油醚作为溶剂提取白茅根提取物,将其加入到二氧化硅体系牙膏中,通过“划割牙龈+钢丝结扎+滴入牙周炎患者细菌培养物+高糖黏性食物饲养”构建20只5周龄SD大鼠牙周炎模型,测定白茅根提取物对大鼠牙周炎模型中的牙周致病菌[伴放线杆菌(Aa)、牙龈卟林单胞菌(Pg)、具核梭杆菌(Fn)、中间普菌(Pi)、硒赛类标菌(Tf)、变黑普菌(Pn)]、外周血、龈沟液内炎性因子[C反应蛋白(CRP)、肿瘤坏死因子-α(TNF-α)、白细胞介素-1β(IL-1β)、白介素-6(IL-6)、前列腺素E2(PGE2)]及牙周健康指标[菌斑指数(PLI)、探诊深度(PD)、出血指数(BI)]的影响,采用小白鼠急性经口毒性实验验证白茅根提取物应用于口腔护理品中的安全性。结果显示,白茅根提取物能明显减少Aa、Pg、Fn、Pi、Tf、Pn,降低CRP、TNF-α、IL-1β、IL-6、PGE2表达,具有抑制牙周致病菌活性,抵抗牙周炎症反应作用,能改善牙周健康,且安全性可靠。

    In vitro evaluation method was used to study the antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activity of extracts of Rhizoma imperataein in oral care products. Water, 50% ethanol, ethyl acetate, acetone and petroleum ether were used as solvents to extract Rhizoma imperatae, which was added to the toothpaste of silica system. The periodontitis model of 20 5-week-old SD rats was established by “cutting the gum+wire ligation+drop into the bacterial culture of periodontitis patients+feeding with high sugar sticky food”. The effects of extract from Rhizoma imperatae on periodontal pathogens [Actinobacteria (Aa), Porphyromonas gingivalis (Pg), Fusobacterium nucleatum (Fn), Puccinia intermedia (Pi), Selenium class standard bacteria (Tf), Puccinia melanogenes (Pn)], peripheral blood, inflammatory factors in gingival crevicular fluid [C-reactive protein (CRP), tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), interleukin-1β (IL-1β), interleukin-6 (IL-6), prostaglandin E2 (PGE2)], and periodontal health indicators [Plaque index (PLI), depth of exploration (PD), bleeding index (BI)] of the rat periodontitis model were determined, and the acute oral toxicity experiment in mice was used to verify the safety of the extracts of Rhizoma imperatae used in oral care products. The results show that the extracts of Rhizoma imperatae can significantly reduce Aa, Pg, Fn, Pi, Tf, Pn, and reduce the expression of CRP, TNF-α, IL-1β, IL-6, and PGE2. It has the activity of inhibiting periodontal pathogens, resisting periodontal inflammation, improving periodontal health, and is safe and reliable.

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    白花泡桐叶片提取物的抗皮肤光老化作用研究
    Study on the anti-photoaging effect of Paulownia fortunei leaf extract
    孙琳, 张曼
    2024 (9):  1092-1098.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.010
    摘要 ( 69 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(1901KB) ( 49 )  

    考察白花泡桐叶片提取物(Paulownia fortunei leaf extract,PFLE)对紫外线B(UVB)诱导的皮肤光老化小鼠的影响。将小鼠分为5组:分别为正常对照组(NC)、模型组(M)、低剂量PFLE组(L-PFLE)、中剂量PFLE组(M-PFLE)、高剂量PFLE组(H-PFLE)。NC组小鼠不照射。其他组小鼠使用紫外线光疗仪进行UVB照射。UVB照射当天,NC组和M组小鼠背部涂抹雪花膏,L-PFLE组、M-PFLE组和H-PFLE组小鼠分别涂抹50,100和200 mg/kg的PFLE乳膏。UVB照射和给药周期均为6周。检测了小鼠的体重、皮肤含水量、皮肤氧化应激指标、HYP和HA水平。采用HE染色观察小鼠皮肤形态。通过Western blotting检测了小鼠皮肤中Nrf2(细胞核)、Keap1和HO-1的蛋白表达水平。通过RT-qPCR检测了小鼠皮肤中MMP-1、MMP-3的转录水平。结果显示,与M组比较,L-PFLE组、M-PFLE组和H-PFLE组小鼠皮肤含水量升高,皮肤形态明显改善,SOD、CAT和GSH-Px水平升高,MDA水平降低,Nrf2(细胞核)和HO-1蛋白相对表达量升高,Keap1蛋白相对表达量降低,HYP和HA水平升高,MMP-1和MMP-3 mRNA相对表达量降低(P<0.05)。表明PELE经皮给药具有良好的抗皮肤光老化作用。

    The study aimed to investigate the effect of Paulownia fortunei leaf extract (PFLE) on ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced skin photoaging in mice. The mice were divided into 5 groups: normal control group (NC), model group (M), low-dose PFLE group (L-PFLE), medium-dose PFLE group (M-PFLE), and high-dose PFLE group (H-PFLE). Mice in NC group were not irradiated. Mice in the other groups were irradiated with UVB using ultraviolet photo-therapy equipment. On the day of UVB irradiation, mice in NC group and M group were smeared with cream on their backs, and mice in L-PFLE, M-PFLE and H-PFLE groups were smeared with 50, 100 and 200 mg/kg PFLE cream, respectively. The UVB irradiation and administration cycles were both 6 weeks. The body weight, skin moisture content, skin oxidative stress indicators (SOD, CAT, GSH-Px and MDA), HYP and HA levels of the mice were detected. HE staining was used to observe skin morphology. The protein expression levels of Nrf2 (nucleus), Keap1 and HO-1 in the skin were detected by Western blotting. The transcript levels of MMP-1 and MMP-3 in the skin were detected by RT-qPCR. The results show that compared with M group, the skin moisture content of the mice in L-PFLE group, M-PFLE group and H-PFLE group increases, the skin morphological changes are significantly improved, the levels of SOD, CAT and GSH-Px increase, the MDA level decreases, the relative expressions of Nrf2 (nucleus) and HO-1 protein increase, the relative expression of Keap1 protein decreases, the levels of HYP and HA increase, and the relative expressions of MMP-1 and MMP-3 mRNA decrease (P<0.05). This study shows that transdermal administration of PELE has a good anti-skin photoaging effect.

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    酵母菌/锌发酵产物在头皮护理中的功效研究
    Study on the efficacy of yeast/zinc fermentation products in scalp care
    尤孝鹏, 彭宁, 陈智仙
    2024 (9):  1099-1105.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.011
    摘要 ( 71 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(2392KB) ( 78 )  

    从人体安全性、控油去屑功效、毛囊养护等方面初步认识酵母菌/锌发酵产物在头皮护理方面的功效。通过人体斑贴试验测试酵母菌/锌发酵产物的人体安全性;使用体外SZ95细胞模型研究酵母菌/锌发酵产物的控油功效,并使用qRT-PCR法验证油脂分泌相关基因SREBP-1c,PPARG和PI3K的表达;采用分光光度法测试酵母菌/锌发酵产物对5α-还原酶的抑制率;通过人体功效测试和离体毛囊模型分别研究酵母菌/锌发酵产物对头皮油脂的抑制效果和对毛囊的养护作用。结果表明:5%含量的酵母菌/锌发酵产物对人体安全隐患较小;0.8%~1.5%含量的酵母菌/锌发酵产物均可显著抑制5α-还原酶的活性;0.5%~2.0%含量的酵母菌/锌发酵产物均可显著抑制体外SZ95细胞油脂的分泌,并显著下调与油脂分泌相关基因SREBP-1c和PPARG的表达,1.0%、2.0%含量的酵母菌/锌发酵产物可显著抑制PI3K的表达;5%含量的酵母菌/锌发酵可显著降低头皮油脂分泌量,并具有改善毛囊周期和促进毛干增长的作用。因此,酵母菌/锌发酵产物具有一定头皮护理功效,在控油、改善毛囊健康、促进毛干生长等方面具有积极作用。

    The efficacy of yeast/zinc fermentation products in scalp care were studied from the aspects of safety, oil control and dandruff removal, and hair follicle maintenance. The safety of yeast/zinc fermentation products was tested through human patch testing. In vitro SZ95 cell model was used to study the oil-control efficacy of yeast/zinc fermentation products. The method of qRT-PCR was used to verify the expression of oil-secretion-related genes SREBP-1c, PPARG, and PI3K. Spectrophotometry was used to test the effect of yeast/zinc fermentation products on 5α-reductase. The oil-control effect of yeast/zinc fermentation products on scalp and the maintenance effect on hair follicles were studied through human efficacy testing and in vitro hair follicle model, respectively. The results showed that the yeast/zinc fermentation products at a content of 5% was safe and harmless to human health; the yeast/zinc fermentation products with a content of 0.8%-1.5% could significantly inhibit the activity of 5α-reductase. The yeast/zinc fermentation products at a content of 0.5%-2.0% could significantly inhibit the secretion of oil in SZ95 cells in vitro, and significantly downregulate the expression of oil-secretion-related genes SREBP-1c and PPARG. The yeast/zinc fermentation products at content of 1.0% and 2.0% could significantly inhibit the expression of PI3K. The yeast/zinc fermentation products at a content of 5% could significantly reduce scalp oil secretion, improve hair follicle cycle, and promote hair shaft growth. Therefore, the yeast/zinc fermentation products had certain scalp care effects and had positive effects in controlling oil, improving hair follicle health, and promoting hair shaft growth.

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    重组弹性蛋白的表征及在紫外诱导皮肤光老化过程中的作用
    Characterization of recombinant elastin and its roles in ultraviolet-induced skin photoaging
    张娅, 周浩, 王蓉, 侯增淼, 黄文涛, 杨鹭
    2024 (9):  1106-1116.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.012
    摘要 ( 76 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF(1459KB) ( 55 )  

    采用基因工程技术构建重组弹性蛋白工程菌,再利用发酵纯化技术得到重组弹性蛋白,并经氨基酸N端测序、分子量测定、氨基酸组成、蛋白纯度分析、内毒素含量测定及其红外光谱和圆二色谱分析对其进行表征鉴定。通过测定重组弹性蛋白对L929小鼠胚胎成纤维细胞粘附能力和细胞活力影响,以及在中波紫外线(UVB)诱导L929细胞光老化模型中,考察重组弹性蛋白对Ⅰ型胶原蛋白(Collagen Ⅰ)、Ⅲ型胶原蛋白(Collagen Ⅲ)、弹性蛋白(Elastin)以及基质金属蛋白酶1(MMP-1)mRNA转录水平的影响,探究重组弹性蛋白在UVB诱导皮肤光老化过程中的作用。结果表明,获得的重组弹性蛋白与天然弹性蛋白二级结构相似;在0.1 mg/mL质量浓度下无细胞毒性且具有一定的细胞活力,显著促进L929细胞的粘附和增殖。此外,重组弹性蛋白可通过下调UVB辐射后L929细胞内MMP-1转录水平,提高细胞中的Collagen Ⅰ,Collagen Ⅲ和Elastin表达,对UVB诱导的L929细胞光损伤具有良好的保护作用,显著提升L929细胞的存活率。

    The recombinant-elastin engineering bacteria was constructed by genetic engineering technology, and then recombinant elastin was obtained by fermentation purification technology. The recombinant elastin was characterized and identified by N-terminal sequencing of amino acids, molecular weight determination, analysis of amino acid composition, protein purity analysis, endotoxicity determination, infrared spectroscopy and circular dichroism analysis. To explore the roles of recombinant elastin in UVB-induced skin photoaging, the effects of recombinant elastin on the adhesion ability and cell viability of L929 mouse embryonic fibroblasts, as well as the effects of recombinant elastin on the expression levels of Collagen Ⅰ, Collagen Ⅲ, Elastin and matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1), were investigated in the model of UVB-induced L929 cell photoaging. The results showed that the secondary structure of recombinant elastin was similar to that of natural elastin. The recombinant elastin showed certain cell viability and no cytotoxicity at 0.1 mg/mL, which significantly promoted the adhesion and proliferation of L929 cells. Additionally, recombinant elastin could also improve the mRNA transcription levels of Collagen Ⅰ, Collagen Ⅲ and Elastin in UVB irradiated cells by down-regulating the expression of MMP-1 in UVB irradiated cells, thus protecting L929 cells from light damage. That was why recombinant elastin could improve the survival rate of photodamaged fibroblasts.

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    丝素蛋白对皮肤光损伤的保护作用
    Protective effect of silk fibroin on UVB-induced skin injury
    李生鹏, 李静, 梁超, 赵冉, 张晓洁, 孙丽丽
    2024 (9):  1117-1124.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.013
    摘要 ( 61 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(4761KB) ( 46 )  

    丝素蛋白是一种从蚕丝中提取的天然高分子纤维蛋白,有很好的抗氧化和减少光损伤的作用。为了研究丝素蛋白对皮肤光损伤的保护作用,以UVB诱导人角质形成细胞(HaCaT)损伤为模型,通过ELISA和荧光检测细胞内活性氧(ROS)和钙离子(Ca2+)的水平,采用免疫荧光检测瞬时受体电位阳离子通道亚家族V成员1 (TRPV1)和Claudin-1的表达。此外,还使用蛋白质印迹分析了紧密连接相关蛋白Occludin和Claudin-1的表达。结果表明,120 mJ/cm2的UVB刺激显著降低细胞活力,而100 μg/mL丝素蛋白的存在显著增加细胞活力。UVB刺激导致细胞内活性氧水平升高,激活TRPV1通道,诱导细胞内Ca2+水平增加。同时炎症因子白细胞介素1α (IL-1α) (P<0.01)和S100钙结合蛋白A8 (S100A8) (P<0.05)水平也显著升高,引发炎症反应。添加丝素蛋白的HaCaT细胞受到UVB的影响则显著降低(P<0.05)。实验证明,UVB会破坏屏障蛋白,导致屏障蛋白Claudin-1和Occludin的表达下降。丝素蛋白的加入可以降低这种影响,保护细胞间紧密连接。因此,丝素蛋白可能具有降低氧化应激、屏障损伤和炎症发生,保护皮肤免受UVB诱导的光损伤的潜在能力。

    As a natural macromolecular protein extracted from silk, silk fibroin (SF) has been widely used as biological material in recent years due to its antioxidant and photodamage reduction effects. To study the protective effect of silk fibroin against skin photodamage, the immortalized human keratinocyte line (HaCaT) was used as a model for study of UVB injury. Intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the levels of calcium ions (Ca2+) were measured by ELISA and fluorescence microscopy. The expression of transient receptor potential cation channel subfamily V member 1 (TRPV1) and the expression of Claudin-1 were detected by immunofluorescence assay. In addition, western blotting was used to analyze the expression of tight junction proteins occludin and Claudin-1. The results showed that 120 mJ/cm2 of UVB stimulation significantly reduced cell viability, while the presence of 100 μg/mL silk fibroin significantly increased cell viability. UVB stimulation could increase the level of intracellular ROS, activate TRPV1 channels, and induce the increase of intracellular Ca2+ level. Meanwhile, the levels of inflammatory cytokines interleukin-1α (IL-1α) (P<0.01) and S100A8 (P<0.05) were also significantly increased, which caused inflammation. However, the effect of UVB on HaCaT cells with the addition of silk fibroin was significantly decreased (P<0.05). In conclusion, UVB could disrupt the structural integrity of barrier proteins, resulting in the decreased expression of the barrier proteins Claudin-1 and occludin. The addition of silk fibroin could reduce such effect and protect the tightly connected structure. Therefore, silk fibroin might have great potential to protect skin from UV-induced inflammation, barrier damage and oxidative stress damage.

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    专论与综述
    基于行为设计的儿童洗护品包装设计策略研究
    Research on packaging design strategies for children’s toiletries based on behavior design
    周祺, 申浩敏, 刘畅
    2024 (9):  1125-1132.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.014
    摘要 ( 61 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(2020KB) ( 43 )  

    为提升儿童在日常洗护过程中的体验感,从而培养儿童良好的日常卫生清洁习惯,同时提高儿童洗护品牌的服务质量与核心竞争力,从行为设计的角度为儿童洗护品包装提出相关设计策略。首先,通过线上与线下调研的方式了解当前市面上儿童洗护品包装设计现状,并归纳整理设计特点;然后,基于儿童洗护品包装设计现状与儿童对洗护行为的态度,明确在儿童洗护品包装设计中介入行为设计的合理性与必要性;最后,基于行为设计在儿童洗护品包装中的设计要点,结合福格行为模型与峰终定律,从提升用户动机、降低使用难度、增强包装行为提示效果、把握用户体验过程中的“峰值”与“终点”4个方面提出相关设计策略,并运用案例分析法诠释相关设计策略的具体实施方法,侧面印证了设计策略的可用性与可靠性,期望能为儿童洗护品包装设计提供新的设计思路。

    In order to enhance children’s experience in daily cleaning, cultivate good daily hygiene and cleaning habits, and improve the service quality and core competitiveness of children’s toiletries brands, relevant design strategies for children’s toiletries packaging are proposed from the perspective of behavior design. Firstly, through online and offline research, we investigate the current status of packaging design for children’s toiletries on the market, and summarize the design characteristics. Then, based on the current situation of packaging design for children’s toiletries and children’s attitudes towards cleaning behavior, the rationality and necessity of incorporating behavior design into the packaging design of children’s toiletries are clarified. Finally, based on the design points of behavior design in packaging of children’s toiletries, combined with the Fogg behavior model and the Peak-end rule, relevant design strategies are proposed from four aspects: enhancing user motivation, reducing difficulty in use, enhancing the effectiveness of packaging behavior prompts, and seizing the “peak” and “endpoint” in the user experience process. Case analysis is used to explain the specific implementation methods of relevant design strategies. The availability and reliability of these design strategies are indirectly confirmed, expecting to provide new design ideas for the packaging design of children’s toiletries.

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    分析与检测
    激光共聚焦拉曼光谱法测定防晒剂经皮渗透作用及其应用研究
    Determination of transdermal permeation of sunscreen by confocal Raman spectroscopy and its application
    谢宇, 张少峰, 杨武成, 谢嘉颖, 范瑞芳, 谭建华
    2024 (9):  1133-1139.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.015
    摘要 ( 3143 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(1657KB) ( 45 )  

    基于激光共聚焦拉曼光谱技术,采用皮肤成分分析仪结合多元线性回归分析方法,建立了皮肤中防晒剂深度分布及经皮渗透量的实时、在体测试方法。以志愿者手臂为实验对象,针对常见的三种防晒剂甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯(OMC)、二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯(DBHB)和乙基己基三嗪酮(EHT),测试并分析了手臂不同皮肤区域经皮渗透能力的一致性,同时比较了不同配方工艺防晒乳的防晒剂经皮渗透作用。结果表明,手臂内侧的不同区域皮肤防晒剂经皮渗透量的相对标准偏差均小于15%,证明可用于不同防晒剂产品的经皮渗透对比;比较油包水防晒乳和纳米乳化工艺的防晒乳中防晒剂的经皮渗透作用,发现经过1 h的皮肤渗透,纳米乳化工艺的防晒乳相比油包水型防晒乳液,三种防晒剂在皮肤的经皮渗透量均降低约60%,而且EHT的经皮渗透深度相对更浅。该方法在防晒剂经皮渗透作用研究中得到了有效的应用,可为化妆品的经皮吸收提供方法参考。

    Based on laser confocal Raman spectroscopy technology, a real-time in vivo testing method for the depth distribution and transdermal penetration of sunscreen in the stratum corneum of the skin was established using a skin component analyzer combined with multivariate linear regression analysis. Using volunteers’ arms as the experimental subject, the consistency of transdermal penetration ability of three common sunscreen agents, OMC, DBHB, and EHT, was tested and analyzed in different skin regions of the arm. And the transdermal penetration of the sunscreen agents in sunscreen lotions with different formulation was compared. The results indicate that the relative standard deviation of the skin penetration of sunscreen in different areas on the inner side of the arm is less than 15%, indicating that the method is suitable for comparison of the skin penetration of different sunscreen products. After one hour of skin penetration, it is found that the transdermal penetration of the three sunscreen agents in the skin is reduced by about 60%, and the penetration depth of EHT is relatively shallow, when the in oil-in-water sunscreen compared to the nano emulsion sunscreen. This method has been effectively applied in the study of transdermal penetration of sunscreen agents, and can provide methodological references for transdermal absorption of cosmetics.

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    氢化物发生-非色散原子荧光光谱法测定粉饼化妆品中Pb,As和Hg含量
    Determination of Pb, As and Hg contents in powder cosmetics by hydride generation-non-dispersive atomic fluorescence spectrometry
    刘萍, 程磊
    2024 (9):  1140-1144.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.016
    摘要 ( 49 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF(1166KB) ( 24 )  

    建立并优化了氢化物发生-非色散原子荧光光谱法(HG-NDAFS)测定10种粉饼化妆品中铅(Pb),砷(As)和汞(Hg)的含量。确定了较佳载气流速为400 mL/min,屏蔽气流速为800 mL/min。优化了负高压和灯电流,确定了原子化器高度为8 mm。优化还原剂体系时,选择了质量分数1.5% KBH4溶液。载流选择2.4 mol/L HCl。结果显示,Pb,As,Hg的加标回收率分别为83.44%~90.32%,83.22%~86.59%,81.43%~89.94%,加标回收率良好。10种粉饼中共检出2种粉饼中含有Pb(含量0.48和0.27 mg/kg),1种粉饼中含有As(含量0.62 mg/kg),1种粉饼中含有Hg(含量0.11 mg/kg)。10种粉饼中的Pb,As,Hg含量均未超标。本研究建立的HG-NDAFS测定粉饼化妆品中Pb,As和Hg含量的方法准确度高,可用于粉饼化妆品中Pb,As和Hg含量的检测。

    This study established and optimized a method for the determination of lead (Pb), arsenic (As) and mercury (Hg) in 10 powder cosmetics using hydride generation-non-dispersive atomic fluorescence spectrometry (HG-NDAFS). This study determines that the optimal carrier gas flow rate is 400 mL/min and the optimal shielding gas flow rate is 800 mL/min. The negative high voltage and lamp current are optimized, and the atomizer height is determined to be 8 mm. When optimizing the reductant system, 1.5% is selected as the best KBH4 solution. The carrying current is 2.4 mol/L HCl. The standard recovery rates of Pb, As, and Hg are 83.44%-90.32%, 83.22%-86.59%, 81.43%-89.94% respectively. The standard recovery rates are good. Among the 10 types of pressed powder, 2 types of pressed powder are detected to contain Pb (0.48 and 0.27 mg/kg), 1 type of pressed powder contained As (0.62 mg/kg), and 1 type of pressed powder contained Hg (0.11 mg/kg). The contents of Pb, As, and Hg in the 10 kinds of powder cosmetics do not exceed the standard. In a word, the HG-NDAFS method established in this study for the determination of Pb, As and Hg in powder cosmetics is accurate and can be used for the determination of Pb, As and Hg in powder cosmetics.

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