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    2024年, 第54卷, 第8期 刊出日期:2024-08-22 上一期    下一期
    基础研究
    油相组成对W/O型Pickering乳液稳定性和流变性能的影响
    Effects of oil type on the stability and rheological properties of W/O Pickering emulsions
    张聚媛,台秀梅,刘慧民,马晓原,高续,罗毅
    2024 (8):  879-886.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.001
    摘要 ( 736 )   HTML ( 35 )   PDF(2395KB) ( 85 )  

    以二甲基甲硅烷基化硅石为乳化剂,采用均质乳化法制备W/O型Pickering乳液,通过偏光显微镜、表面张力仪、接触角测量仪和流变仪研究了油脂的极性、流变改性剂对W/O型Pickering乳液稳定性及流变性能的影响。结果表明,相比于非极性油脂,极性油脂制备出来的W/O型Pickering乳液液滴更小,稳定性能更优,其中霍霍巴油制备的Pickering乳液粒径分布较窄,形状均一,稳定性好;添加流变改性剂后,Pickering乳液的粒径有一定的下降,常温稳定性和低温稳定性均有小幅度提升,对于不同的油脂,与之结构上存在相似性的流变改性剂对粒径的降低及稳定性的提高效果较好。不同油脂制备的W/O型Pickering乳液均为非牛顿流体,随着剪切速率的增大,Pickering乳液的黏度降低,并且所有Pickering乳液的弹性模量(G')高于黏性模量(G"),均为凝胶乳液,线性黏弹区为0.001%~0.100%,添加流变改性剂后,Pickering乳液的黏度上升,剪切稀化现象基本不变,但线性黏弹区增大,可能与Pickering乳液的粒径和油水界面能的变化有关。

    Using dimethylsilylated silica as emulsifier, W/O Pickering emulsions were prepared by homogeneous emulsification. The kinds of oils, rheological modifiers and their effects on the stability and rheological properties of the W/O Pickering emulsions were studied. The results showed that, compared with the nonpolar oil, the W/O Pickering emulsion prepared with polar oil had smaller droplets and better stability, e.g., the emulsion prepared with jojoba oil had narrow particle size distribution, uniform shape and good stability. With the addition of rheological modifier, the particle size of the emulsion decreased to a certain extent, and the stability at room temperature and at low temperature was both slightly increased. For different oils, the rheological modifier which was similar to the oil in molecular structure had better effects in the reduction of particle size and the improvement of stability. All these W/O Pickering emulsions prepared with different oils were non-Newtonian fluids. With the increase of shear rate, the viscosity of the emulsions decreased, and the elastic modulus (G') of all emulsions was higher than viscous modulus (G"). All the emulsions were gel emulsions, and the linear viscoelastic region was 0.001%-0.100%. With the addition of rheological modifier, the viscosity of the emulsion increased and the shear thinning phenomenon was basically unchanged, but the linear viscoelastic region was enlarged, which might be related to the change of emulsion particle size and oil-water interfacial energy.

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    咪唑离子液体与辛烷磺酸钠复配体系的聚集行为
    Aggregation behavior of mixed systems of imidazolium-based ionic liquid and sodium octanesulfonate
    赵学艳,黄静宜,肖瑞杰,曹桂荣
    2024 (8):  887-894.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.002
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    采用表面张力法测定了辛烷磺酸钠(SOS)/溴化1-癸基-3-甲基咪唑鎓([C10mim]Br)以及SOS/溴化1-十四烷基-3-甲基咪唑鎓([C14mim]Br)复配体系的表面活性,得到了临界胶束浓度(cmc)、平衡表面张力(γcmc)、表面压(Πcmc)、饱和吸附量(Γmax)和气液界面吸附分子的最小截面积(Amin)等参数。应用Rubingh正规溶液理论,计算了混合胶束的组成(X1m)、活度系数(f1mf2m)及分子相互作用参数(βm),所研究的体系均表现出了强协同增效作用,与[C10mim]Br相比,SOS与[C14mim]Br间的相互作用更强。热力学参数的计算结果也表明了混合胶束是自发形成的,且为热力学稳定体系。利用分光光度法测定了体系的浊度,结合目视观察与吸光度数值绘制了各体系的相图,SOS与[C10mim]Br和[C14mim]Br的复配体系均存在3个浓度区,即低均相溶液区、两相区和高均相溶液区。

    Two mixed systems consisting of an anionic surfactant and a cationic surface-active ionic liquid were studied. The mixture of sodium octanesulfonate (SOS) and 1-decyl-3-methylimidazolium bromide ([C10mim]Br), and the mixture of SOS and 1-tetradecyl-3-methylimidazolium bromide ([C14mim]Br), were both investigated using surface tension measurement. The parameters, such as critical micelle concentration (cmc), surface tension at cmc (γcmc), surface pressure at cmc (Πcmc), maximum surface excess (Γmax) and minimum area per molecule (Amin), were obtained. The mixed micellar parameters including micellar mole fraction (X1m), micellar interaction parameters (βm) and activity coefficients (f1m and f2m) were calculated by applying Rubingh’s regular solution theory. The calculated parameters confirmed that there were strong synergy in all these mixed systems, and the interaction of SOS with [C14mim]Br was stronger than that with [C10mim]Br. Thermodynamic parameters for mixed monolayers and mixed micelles were calculated and discussed, which indicated that the mixed micelles were spontaneously formed and were thermodynamically stable systems. Turbidity measurement was conducted using spectrophotometry. The phase diagrams were plotted for each system based on visual observations and absorbance values. The mixed systems of SOS/[C10mim]Br and SOS/[C14mim]Br all exhibited three concentration regions: a low-concentration homogeneous solution region, a two-phase region, and a high-concentration homogeneous solution region.

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    科技讲座
    天然生物质材料的制备、性质与应用(Ⅷ)——高黏多用的天然半乳甘露聚糖胶:瓜尔胶
    Preparation, properties and applications of natural biomass materials (Ⅷ)High-viscosity and versatile natural galactomannan: guar gum
    孙晓彤,周业杰,段亚彤,刘雅迪,张挺雨,范金石
    2024 (8):  895-902.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.003
    摘要 ( 577 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(1243KB) ( 45 )  

    瓜尔胶是从瓜尔豆种子胚乳中提取的一种天然半乳甘露聚糖胶。因瓜尔胶具有良好的水溶性、增稠性、胶凝性、成膜性等性质以及天然无毒、生物相容性良好、可生物降解的天然属性,且利用其分子结构中的羟基、糖苷键等活性官能团进行分子修饰、化学交联、接枝共聚、氧化等改性手段处理后能显著改善其理化性质、增强其功效性能,使得瓜尔胶及其改性产物被广泛应用于日用化工、造纸、食品加工、石油开采、生物医药、水处理等多个行业领域。本文浅述了瓜尔胶的名称、来源和结构及其性质、提取工艺和改性方法,同时介绍了瓜尔胶及其改性产物的应用情况,并提及了瓜尔胶及其改性产物当前面临的问题和今后的研发方向。

    Guar gum is a kind of natural galactomannan extracted from the endosperm of seeds of guar beans. It has excellent water solubility thickening, gelling, and film-forming properties, as well as non-toxicity, good biocompatibility, and biodegradability. Moreover, its physical and chemical properties can be significantly improved and its application performance can be efficiently enhanced through molecular modification, chemical cross-linking, graft copolymerization, oxidation, and other modification treatments by reacting with the hydroxyl groups and glycosidic bonds in its molecular structure. Therefore, guar gum and its modified products have been found wide applications in industrial fields such as daily chemicals, papermaking, food processing, oil exploitation, biomedicine and water treatment. In this review, the name, source, chemical structure, main physicochemical properties and functions of guar gum along with its extraction technologies and modification methods were briefly presented. The applications of guar gum and its modified products, and the current challenges as well as the future research directions of these materials were also discussed.

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    开发与应用
    纳米SiO2表面改性稳定非水相泡沫的实验研究
    Study on the non-aqueous foams stabilized by the modified nano-SiO2 particles
    姚思齐,燕永利,张随望,陈钰,贺炳成
    2024 (8):  903-910.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.004
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    非水相泡沫在石油开采、功能材料、日用化工等领域有着广泛的应用,非水相泡沫的研究进展影响着相关行业的发展。然而,由于其自身的界面张力和介电常数较低,致使发泡难度较大。为解决非水相体系发泡困难的问题,文章通过制备纳米SiO2颗粒,经TEM,FT-IR及XRD对颗粒进行表征,采用3-缩水甘油氧基丙基三甲氧基硅烷(GPTMS)对纳米SiO2颗粒润湿性进行调控,研究纳米SiO2颗粒对非水相溶剂发泡性能的影响。结果表明:经GPTMS改性后,颗粒的接触角范围扩大至34.7°~116°之间;且能有效降低不同溶剂的表面张力并增加溶剂体系的黏度;当颗粒质量分数为7%,粒径为10 nm时,非水相产生的泡沫体积随纳米SiO2颗粒接触角的增大呈现先增后减的趋势,泡沫稳定性随纳米SiO2颗粒接触角的增大呈现先增强后减弱的趋势。在甲酰胺体系中,当颗粒接触角为92.3°时,泡沫体积最高可达到12 mL,泡沫稳定时长可达63 d;在乙酸苄酯体系中,当颗粒接触角为79.5°时,泡沫体积最高可达到7 mL,泡沫稳定时长可达47 d;在癸烷体系中,当颗粒接触角为60.3°时,泡沫体积最高可达到4 mL,泡沫稳定时长可达8 d。

    Non-aqueous foams have a wide range of applications in petroleum exploitation, functional materials, daily chemical industry, etc. However, the low interfacial tension and low dielectric constant of non-aqueous solvents lead to the difficulty in forming stable foams. Therefore, to solve the difficulty in foaming for non-aqueous systems, nano-SiO2 particles were prepared and characterized by TEM, FT-IR and XRD. Then the wettability of nano-SiO2 particles was modified with 3-glycidyloxypropyl trimethoxysilane (GPTMS), and the effects of nano-SiO2 particles of different wettability on the foaming performance of non-aqueous solvents were studied. The results showed that the contact angle of the particles could be regulated in the range from 34.7° to 116° by GPTMS modification. The surface tension of different solvents could be effectively reduced and the viscosity of the solvent systems was increased. When the mass fraction of particles was 7% and the particle size was 10 nm, the foam volume for non-aqueous solvents first increased and then decreased with the increase of the contact angle of nano-SiO2 particles, and the foam stability also first increased and then decreased with the increase of the contact angle of nano-SiO2 particles. In the formamide system, when the contact angle of particles was 92.3°, the foam volume could reach up to 12 mL, and the foam stability could reach 63 days. In the benzyl acetate system, when the contact angle of particles was 79.5°, the foam volume could reach up to 7 mL, and the foam stability could reach 47 days. In the decane system, when the contact angle of particles was 60.3°, the foam volume could reach up to 4 mL, and the foam stability could reach 8 days.

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    可调控结构色互穿纳米水凝胶的合成及凝胶化转变
    Synthesis and sol-gel transition of interpenetrating nanogels with controllable structural color
    夏婷婷,李雪婷,鲁希华
    2024 (8):  911-920.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.005
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    研究合成了具有温度和pH响应性的PNIPAM/PAphe互穿纳米水凝胶,通过红外光谱、扫描电镜、动态光散射仪、光纤光谱仪等技术,详细研究了互穿纳米水凝胶的结构和形貌、粒径与分散性、温度和pH响应性、结构色调控与光子晶体自组装,以及凝胶化转变行为。根据红外光谱和扫描电镜图确认了两种网络的有效互穿和其良好的单分散性。通过粒径分析可以得到随着PAphe含量的增加,互穿纳米水凝胶的粒径相应增大,但单分散性保持良好。利用温度和pH敏感性实验证明了该互穿纳米水凝胶的智能调控响应性,具体表现为:在温度上升或pH值下降的条件下,其粒径显著减小。结合光纤光谱图,进一步发现该互穿纳米水凝胶能够通过调整粒径大小来实现其结构色的可调控性。更为重要的是,通过试管倒置法发现在相变温度(32 ℃)以上该纳米凝胶具有从溶胶转变到凝胶的能力,展现了其在高度可调控的光学材料及生物医学领域中的应用潜力。

    The PNIPAM/PAphe interpenetrating nanogels which were responsive to temperature and pH were synthesized. The chemical structure, morphology, particle size and dispersity, temperature-and pH-response, structural color tunability, photonic crystal self-assembly, and sol-gel transition behavior of the interpenetrating nanogels were studied in detail by infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), dynamic light scattering, and optical fiber spectrometry. According to the infrared spectrum and SEM image, the effective interpenetration and good monodispersity of the two networks were confirmed. The analysis of particle size and polydispersity index (PDI) indicated that, with the increase of PAphe content, the particle size of the interpenetrating nanogels correspondingly increased, but the monodispersity remained good. The temperature-and pH-sensitivity experiments proved the responsiveness of the interpenetrating nanogels, which showed that the particle size was significantly decreased when the temperature was increased or the pH value was decreased. Combined with the optical fiber spectrum, it was further found that the interpenetrating nanogel could achieve controllable structural colors by adjusting the particle size. More importantly, they possessed the ability of transition from sol to gel above Tp (32 ℃) by the method of test tube inversion. These characteristics showed their potential applications in highly controllable optical materials and the biomedical field.

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    拟微绿球藻发酵肽的抗衰老作用研究
    The anti-aging potential of peptides from fermented Nannochloropsis sp.
    杨婷,李华文,许训,郭红辉,邹堂斌,夏恩琴
    2024 (8):  921-929.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.006
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    探讨了拟微绿球藻发酵肽(FNPs)的提取、组成分析及其对果蝇体内抗衰老效果。与非发酵组相比,FNPs的多肽含量增加约100条,肽中的抗氧化位点显著增加。FNPs的最大吸收强度在258 nm处,且具有剂量依赖关系。在果蝇实验中,经口干预后,5 μg/mL FNPs可使自然衰老的黑腹果蝇的平均寿命延长约13 天。同时观察到,在70~90日龄时,0.5,5和10 μg/mL的FNPs均可缓解因年龄引起的MDA、SOD和CAT等氧化应激指标的恶化,并将其提高到阳性组水平。结果表明,FNPs是潜在的缓解自然衰老引起的健康问题的生物活性成分,其资源丰富且易于获得,在作为新型抗氧化成分进行功能性食品开发或营养保健膳食制剂将有很好的应用前景。

    The extraction and composition analysis of peptides (FNPs) from fermentation Nannochloropsis sp., as well as their anti-aging effects on Drosophila melanogaster in vivo were investigated. Compared with the non-fermentation group, the number of peptide in FNPs increases by about 100, and the oxidation sites in the peptides also increase. The maximum absorption intensity of FNPs is observed at 258 nm with a dose-dependent relationship. Compared with the control group, 5 μg/mL FNPs extends the mean life span of the the natural aging Drosophila melanogaster for 13 days. Additionally, for 70-90 days old, the deterioration of oxidative stress indicators such as MDA, SOD, and CAT caused by age are significantly restored and increased to the level of positive group by FNPs at 0.5 and 5 μg/mL. These results indicate that FNPs have potential as a promising nutritional component for alleviating human health problems induced by aging. It can also be used as a new antioxidant ingredient for functional food development or cosmeceutical applications from a resource rich and easily obtainable raw material Nannochloropsis sp..

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    高分子表面活性剂在不同洗涤剂中的应用性能
    Application properties of a polymeric surfactant in different detergents
    严羽欢,潘鹤潮,鲍红洁,赵建红,何一波
    2024 (8):  930-938.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.007
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    分别利用凝胶色谱仪、表面张力仪和激光粒度仪表征了聚醚-聚丙烯酸/酯高分子表面活性剂HS-PA的分子量、表面张力以及胶束聚集体的粒径分布。并考察了HS-PA在分别以LAS/AES/AEO9为主表面活性剂的非结构型/结构型洗涤剂中的增稠性能、去污性能、液晶形态、悬浮性能以及流变行为。性能表征结果表明:HS-PA的重均分子量为4 244,临界胶束浓度为3×10-7 mol/L,平衡表面张力为42.06 mN/m;当HS-PA分别与LAS、AES、AEO9形成混合胶束时,聚集体的平均粒径增大;在非结构型洗涤剂中的应用测试结果表明:HS-PA对LAS/AES/AEO9为主表面活性剂的配方均有提升黏度的作用,同时有利于改善洗涤剂在JB03皮脂污布上的去污力;在结构型洗涤剂中的应用测试结果说明:HS-PA将有助于LAS/AES/AEO9体系形成球形层状液晶,且HS-PA用量越多,AES体系的液晶数量越多;离心结果表明,含HS-PA的结构型洗涤剂具有稳定悬浮微胶囊的能力;经旋转流变仪测定,HS-PA可提高LAS配方体系的屈服应力。

    The molecular weight, surface tension, and the particle size distribution of micellar aggregates of a polyether-polyacrylate polymeric surfactant, HS-PA, were characterized on gel permeation chromatograph, surface tension meter, and laser particle size analyzer, respectively. The thickening properties, detergency, liquid crystal morphology, suspension properties, and rheological behaviors of HS-PA in unstructured/structured detergents with LAS/AES/AEO9 as the main surfactants, respectively, were also investigated. The characterization results showed that, the weight-average molecular weight of HS-PA was 4 244, the critical micelle concentration was 3×10-7 mol/L, and the equilibrium surface tension was 42.06 mN/m; the average particle size of aggregates was increased when LAS, AES and AEO9 formed mixed micelles with HS-PA, respectively. The application test in unstructured detergents showed that, HS-PA had viscosity-enhancing effects on all the LAS/AES/AEO9-based systems, and meanwhile it was beneficial to the improvement of the detergency to sebum. The application test in structured detergents showed that, HS-PA would help the formation of lamellar liquid crystals in the LAS/AES/AEO9 systems, and the more HS-PA used, the more the liquid crystals in the AES system; the centrifugal separation results showed that the structured detergents containing HS-PA had the ability to stabilize the suspension of microcapsules; HS-PA could increase the yield stress of the LAS formulation system as determined by rotational rheometer.

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    化妆品底妆体外测试评价方法建立
    Establishment of an in vitro test and evaluation method for cosmetic foundation
    萧可荧,蔡佳静,訾慧敏,王飞飞
    2024 (8):  939-946.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.008
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    选取7款市售底妆类产品进行实验,从4个维度——遮瑕度、暗沉度、抗迁徙性、抗水抗汗抗皮脂,探讨了底妆体外测试的评估方法。遮瑕度和暗沉度实验部分均使用自动涂膜机将测试的底妆样品涂布均匀,采用分光光度计对样品的遮盖率及底妆的色泽表征值(ΔL, Δa, Δb)进行测定;结果得出样品E1的遮盖率为90.98 cr,遮瑕度最高;样品D2的ΔL值为-2.73变化最大,暗沉度最高;结合消费者上妆测试评分来进一步验证,整体分值结果与体外测试结果一致。利用图像分析软件Image-Pro Plus 6.0分析黑胶带上蹭下的粉体量,通过计算总面积比较出样品的抗迁徙性:样品E1<样品D2<样品E2<样品F<样品B1。结合接触角测量仪,测量出去离子水、人工汗液、人工皮脂在样品表面的接触角大小,样品B1和D2与去离子水和人工汗液的接触角大于90°表现为疏水疏汗;所有样品的接触角都小于90°表现为亲油性,其中样品E1和样品F表现为相对亲油性较低,接触角分别为40.8°和40.0°。采用现有文献测试的抗水抗汗抗皮脂测试方法进行对比,结果大体上相符。结果表明,4种采用仪器科学测量的方法都具有可实行性和依据性,为底妆评估提供了简便且科学的测试方法。

    This study aims to establish the methods of evaluating cosmetic foundation in vitro from four dimensions: concealment, dullness, migration resistance as well as the ability of water resistance, sweat resistance and sebum resistance. The automatic film coating machine was used to evenly coat the samples in the first steps. The concealment and dullness sections were evaluated by MetaVue VS3200 spectrophotometer, which measured the hiding rate of the samples and the color characterization values of the foundation (ΔL, Δa, Δb). The coverage rate of sample E1 is 90.98 cr, which is the highest coverage. The ΔL value of sample D2 has the largest change of -2.73 as well as the highest dullness. Combined with the result of consumer testing for further verification, the overall score results are consistent with in vitro test results. Also, the ability of migration resistance was determined and compared by the image analysis of software Image-Pro Plus 6.0 through the testing of the amount of rubbed powder. Moreover, through the contact angle measuring device, the capabilities of water, sweat, and sebum resistance of the foundation samples could be compared based on the measurement of the contact angles of deionized water, artificial sweat, and artificial sebum on the sample surface. The contact angles of sample B1 and D2 with deionized water and artificial sweat are greater than 90° for removal of lipophilicity. The contact angles of all samples are less than 90° for removal of lipophilicity, among which sample E1 and sample F are relatively lower in removal of lipophilicity, and the contact angles are respectively 40.8° and 40.0°. The results of water resistance, sweat and sebum tested in this study are generally consistent with the test results based on existing literature. The results show that four methodologies of scientific measurement with instruments are feasible and valid, and they help develop the convenience and scientific rigor of in vitro evaluation.

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    超声辅助酶法降解枳实果胶及其衍生物抗氧化性能
    Ultrasound-assisted enzymatic degradation to obtain pectin derivatives from Citrus aurantium L. and its antioxidant properties
    钱伟,阳斌,邵博,万力,周军
    2024 (8):  947-955.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.009
    摘要 ( 37 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF(1440KB) ( 72 )  

    采用超声辅助酶法对枳实果胶进行降解,获得枳实果胶降解衍生物。以抗氧化活性为指标,考察了超声预处理时间、酶种类、酶添加量等因素对枳实果胶降解衍生物抗氧化活性的影响。利用滴定法、凝胶色谱法和红外光谱等技术分析了枳实果胶降解衍生物中半乳糖醛酸含量、分子量分布以及结构特性,以验证果胶降解衍生物抗氧化构效关系。结果表明:当果胶酶作为降解酶,酶用量为6 000 U/g,超声预处理时间为20 min时,制备的枳实果胶降解衍生物的抗氧化活性最佳,此条件下其质量浓度为3 mg/mL时,对DPPH自由基的清除率为62.94%,对ABTS自由基的清除率为52.67%,还原能力为0.962 7,与未降解的枳实果胶相比,抗氧化活性显著提高。枳实果胶降解衍生物中半乳糖醛酸含量随降解工艺的不同存在明显差异,且半乳糖醛酸含量与抗氧化活性呈正相关。此外,枳实果胶降解衍生物分子量更低,且甲氧基含量也明显降低,但降解过程并没有改变果胶的吡喃糖结构。研究结果为枳实果胶的高值化利用提供理论依据和参考。

    In this paper, pectin derivatives obtained from the degradation of Citrus aurantium L. pectin was prepared by ultrasound-assisted enzymatic method. The effects of ultrasound pretreatment time, enzyme type and amount of enzyme addition on the antioxidant activity of degradation derivatives of Citrus aurantium L. pectin were investigated. Then the content, molecular weight distribution and structural properties of galacturonic acid from the degradation derivatives of Citrus aurantium L. pectin were analyzed by titration gel chromatography and infrared spectroscopy to verify the plausible explanation for the enhanced antioxidant activity of pectin degradation derivatives. The results confirm that the best scavenging rate of DPPH radicals and ABTS radicals as well as the reducing ability of potassium ferricyanide of the pectin degradation derivatives are obtained, when pectinase is selected as the degrading enzyme with the dosage of 6 000 U/g and the ultrasound-pretreatment time is 20 min. Under these conditions, the degradation derivatives of Citrus aurantium L. pectin prepared at a mass concentration of 3 mg/mL, shows a more significant increasing in antioxidant activity with a 62.94% scavenging of DPPH radicals, a 52.67% scavenging of ABTS radicals and a reducing capacity of 0.962 7, compared to the undegraded pectin. The content of galacturonic acid in the degradation derivatives of Citrus aurantium L. pectin varies significantly with the degradation process. Also it is verified that it is a positive correlation between galacturonic acid content and antioxidant activity, and that a lower molecular weight and lower methoxy content of the degradation derivatives are obtained compared to Citrus aurantium L. pectin, but the pyranose structure of the pectin is not changed in the degradation process. The results of this study provide theoretical basis and reference for the high-value utilization of Citrus aurantium L. pectin.

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    壬二酸和壳多糖包被的壬二酸复合物的皮肤吸收效率及抗炎能力比较研究
    Comparation of azelaic acid and chitosan encapsulated-azelaic acid complex in skin absorption efficiency and anti-inflammatory capability
    袁旻嘉,李琦,朱翠翠,帖航
    2024 (8):  956-965.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.010
    摘要 ( 63 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF(1269KB) ( 39 )  

    文章旨在比较壬二酸以及壳多糖包被的壬二酸作为化妆品原料,在皮肤吸收效率、去角质、抗炎和5α-还原酶抑制方面的功能差异。研究结果表明,壬二酸的皮肤吸收效果明显高于壬二酸壳多糖;在去角质方面,壬二酸和壬二酸壳多糖都具有一定的去角质功效,但与壬二酸壳多糖相比,壬二酸单独处理后洗脱的角质细胞数量和总蛋白含量分别比壬二酸壳多糖高25.86%,27.80%;而在抗炎方面,在同等浓度下,壬二酸壳多糖对炎症因子肿瘤坏死因子-α (TNF-α)、前列腺素E2 (PGE2)和环氧化酶-2 (COX-2)的抑制效果显著高于壬二酸,但对于5α-还原酶的酶活抑制率二者无明显差异,表明两种原料在作为化妆品原料的功效方面各有优势。研究为壬二酸和壳多糖包被的壬二酸作为化妆品原料的应用提供了必要数据支撑,同时为评估壳多糖作为一种化妆品原料包被材料的应用潜力提供了参考依据。

    The objective of this research was to compare the functional differences between azelaic acid and chitosan-coated azelaic acid as cosmetic raw materials in terms of skin absorption efficiency, exfoliation, anti-inflammatory and 5α-reductase inhibition. The results showed that the skin absorption of azelaic acid was significantly higher compared to azelaic-chitosan. In terms of exfoliation, both azelaic acid and azelaic-chitosan had a certain exfoliating efficacy. However, compared to azelaic-chitosan, azelaic acid alone resulted in a 25.86% higher number of detached corneocytes and a 27.80% higher total protein content. In terms of anti-inflammation, azelaic-chitosan at the same concentration showed significantly greater inhibitory effects on inflammatory factors such as tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) compared to decanoic acid. Besides, there was no significant difference in inhibitory activity of 5α-reductase between the two groups. These results suggested that both materials had their advantages in terms of their efficacy as cosmetic ingredients. This study contributed to harnessing the potential benefits of azelaic acid and chitosan coating as cosmetic ingredients while providing valuable reference data for evaluating the application potential of chitosan as a coating material in cosmetics.

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    女性油性敏感皮肤面部生理参数与菌群特征分析
    Analysis of skin physiological parameters and microbial community characteristics of oily sensitive skin
    蒋虹,姜姗姗,袁春颖,杨素珍,韩婷婷,李燕
    2024 (8):  966-973.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.011
    摘要 ( 89 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1459KB) ( 48 )  

    通过自我敏感评价问卷和皮脂分泌量的测定将人群分为健康皮肤非敏感型人群和油性皮肤敏感型人群,采用无创伤性皮肤测量和扩增子测序的方法对健康皮肤人群和油性敏感皮肤人群的皮肤生理特点和菌群组成进行研究。研究发现,与健康皮肤人群相比,油性敏感皮肤人群的皮肤含水量和b值显著降低(P<0.05),经皮水分流失率、皮脂、血红素和皮肤粗糙度显著升高(P<0.05),毛孔面积显著增大(P<0.05);皮肤菌群多样性分析表明Sobs指数(P<0.05)和Shannon指数显著降低(P<0.001),菌群多样性降低;物种组成分析表明,丙酸杆菌属和葡萄球菌属丰度明显上升,红球菌属和假单胞菌属丰度显著下降(P<0.001);斯皮尔曼相关性分析表明,皮脂与丙酸杆菌属和葡萄球菌属呈正相关,与其他菌属呈负相关性;且在皮肤生理参数和物种组成部分加入油性不敏感数据对比发现,这种皮肤也处于不健康的皮肤状态,其生理参数和皮肤菌群组成变化与油性敏感皮肤呈相同的变化趋势,但整体均好于油性敏感皮肤。通过以上结果分析得到,油性敏感皮肤的产生与皮肤菌群的变化密切相关,且丙酸杆菌属是影响皮肤菌群组成整体稳定性的重要菌属,以上研究结果将为油性敏感皮肤人群护肤品的开发提供科学依据。

    This study divided the volunteers into healthy skin non sensitive individuals and oily skin sensitive individuals through self-evaluation questionnaire and measurement of sebum secretion. The physiological parameters of facial skin were measured by non-invasive methods and the skin microbiome was analyzed by 16S rRNA high-throughput sequencing. Research has found that compared with the healthy skin, the hydration content and b-value of oily sensitive skin are significantly reduced (P<0.05), while the TEWL, sebum, hemoglobin, and skin roughness are significantly increased (P<0.05), and the pore area is significantly increased (P<0.05). The analysis of skin microbiota diversity shows a significant decrease in Sobs index (P<0.05) and Shannon index (P<0.001), resulting in a decrease in microbiota diversity. The species composition analysis shows that the abundance of Cutibacterium and Staphylococcus genera increases significantly, while the abundance of Rhodococcus and Pseudomonas genera decreases significantly (P<0.001). Spearman correlation analysis shows that sebum is positively correlated with the genera Cutibacterium and Staphylococcus, while negatively correlated with other genera. At the same time, Cutibacterium always shows the opposite correlation with other bacteria genera. This study indicates that the occurrence of oily sensitive skin is closely related to the changes in skin microbiota, and Cutibacterium is an important genus that affects the overall stability of the skin microbiota. This study provides a scientific basis for the development of skincare products for oily sensitive skin populations.

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    三七根提取物的表面活性及其复配体系的性能研究
    Study on the surface activity of Panax notoginseng root extract and the properties of the mixed system
    刘继涛,王雨茜,杨玄琳
    2024 (8):  974-980.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.012
    摘要 ( 68 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(1597KB) ( 64 )  

    对三七根提取物的表面活性和复配增效性能进行研究。结果表明,三七根提取物在25 ℃的cmc为0.1 g/L,对应的γcmc为43.67 mN/m。在盐度质量分数范围为0%~1%,其表面活性随盐度的增加而增加。在pH范围为4.0~8.0时,三七根提取物的表面张力随pH的降低而降低。根据Rosen理论推算出三七根提取物与聚氧乙烯失水山梨醇月桂酸酯(Tween 20)的最佳复配质量比为4∶1,二元复配体系形成胶束的能力比理论结果增效41.18%。乳化力测试结果显示,三七根提取物与Tween 20复配后的乳化能力和乳化稳定性均与单一使用Tween 20接近,表明三七根提取物与Tween 20的复配具有较好的协同增效能力。而三七根提取物对Tween 60无协同增效作用。

    The surface activity and compound synergy of Panax notoginseng root extract were studied. The results show that the cmc of Panax notoginseng root extract at 25 ℃ is 0.1 g/L and γcmc is 43.67 mN/m. In the salinity mass fraction range of 0%-1%, the surface activity increases with the increasing saltness. In the pH between 4.0-8.0, the surface tension of Panax notoginseng root extract decreases with the decreasing pH. According to Rosen’s theory, the optimal compound mass ratio between Panax notoginseng root extract and Tween 20 is 4∶1, and it is found that the ability of the mixed system to form micelles increases by 41.18% compared with the theoretical results. The emulsifying ability results show that the emulsifying ability and emulsifying stability of the mixed system are close to Tween 20 alone, indicating that the combination of Panax notoginseng root extract and Tween 20 has a good synergistic effect, but not on Tween 60.

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    经皮应用水飞蓟提取物的抗衰老作用评价
    Evaluation of anti-aging effect of percutaneous application of Silybum marianum extract
    何美玲,范丽敏
    2024 (8):  981-987.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.013
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    经皮应用水飞蓟提取物(Silybum marianum extract,SME),研究SME对D-半乳糖(D-galactose,D-gal)诱导的皮肤衰老小鼠的抗衰老作用。将小鼠分为6组,连续6周背部皮下注射D-gal (1 g/ (kg·d))诱导皮肤衰老小鼠模型。检测各组小鼠的体重、皮肤含水量、皮肤氧化应激指标、HYP和HA水平。采用HE染色评价了小鼠皮肤损伤。采用RT-qPCR检测了小鼠皮肤中collagen Ⅰ、collagen Ⅲ、MMP-1和MMP-3的mRNA相对表达量。采用Western blotting检测了小鼠皮肤中Nrf2(细胞核)、Keap1和HO-1的蛋白相对表达量。结果显示,经皮应用3个剂量的SME均升高了D-gal诱导的皮肤衰老小鼠的皮肤含水量,减轻了皮肤损伤,升高了SOD、CAT和GSH-Px水平,降低了MDA水平,升高了HYP和HA水平,升高了collagen Ⅰ和collagen Ⅲ mRNA相对表达量,降低了MMP-1和MMP-3 mRNA相对表达量,升高了Nrf2(细胞核)和HO-1蛋白相对表达量,降低了Keap1蛋白相对表达量(P<0.05)。抑制剂ML385抑制了Nrf2途径的激活并减弱了SME的抗衰老作用(P<0.05)。本研究表明,经皮应用SME对D-gal诱导的皮肤衰老小鼠具有良好的抗衰老作用,Nrf2途径介导了SME的抗衰老作用。综上,SME有望成为一种具有较高开发价值的抗衰老天然产物。

    The study aims to investigate the anti-aging effect of Silybum marianum extract (SME) on skin aging mice induced by D-galactose (D-gal). The mice were divided into 6 groups. The mouse model of skin aging was induced by subcutaneous injection of D-gal (1 g/ (kg·d)) on the back for 6 weeks. Body weight, skin water content, skin oxidative stress index, HYP and HA levels of mice in each group were measured. HE staining was used to evaluate the skin injury. The relative mRNA expressions of collagen Ⅰ, collagen Ⅲ, MMP-1 and MMP-3 in skin were detected by RT-qPCR. The relative expressions of Nrf2 (nucleus), Keap1 and HO-1 in skin were detected by Western blotting. The results show that percutaneous application of all three doses of SME increase the skin water content, alleviate the skin injury, increase the levels of SOD, CAT and GSH-Px, decrease the level of MDA, increased the levels of HYP and HA, increase the relative expression of collagen Ⅰ and collagen Ⅲ mRNA, decrease the relative expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 mRNA, increase the relative expression of Nrf2 (nucleus) and HO-1 protein, and decrease the relative expression of Keap1 protein in D-gal-induced aging mice (P<0.05). ML385 inhibits the activation of Nrf2 pathway and weakens the anti-aging effect of SME (P<0.05). This study shows that percutaneous application of SME has a good anti-aging effect on skin aging mice induced by D-gal, and Nrf2 pathway mediates the anti-aging effect of SME. SME may be a kind of anti-aging daily skin care material with high development value.

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    专论与综述
    油性敏感皮肤发生机制及干预护理初探
    A preliminary study on the mechanism of oily sensitive skin and intervention care
    况昕珏,付媛媛,陈显才,陈勇,刘有停,易帆
    2024 (8):  988-996.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.014
    摘要 ( 562 )   HTML ( 13 )   PDF(1734KB) ( 83 )  

    随着现代不良生活习惯的普遍发生、环境污染的加剧,油性敏感皮肤的发病率不断攀升,但确切发病机制仍未完全明晰。本文回顾了油性敏感皮肤的定义及特征,综述了其可能的发生机制,包括皮脂腺分泌过多、表皮屏障功能降低、皮肤微生态失衡、炎症反应、神经与血管高反应等,并深入分析不同发生机制之间的内在联系。针对这些机制,探讨了油性敏感皮肤的一系列干预护理建议,包括与干性敏感皮肤的护理差异、护肤品功效选择、生活习惯调整,有望改善患者的生活质量,为相关从业人员提供科学有益的参考。

    With the prevalence of modern unhealthy lifestyle habits and the worsening of environmental pollution, the occurrence of oily sensitive skin has been increasing. However, the exact cause is still not completely understood. In this paper, we review the definition and characteristics of oily sensitive skin. We also provide an overview of its possible mechanisms, which include excessive sebaceous gland secretion, reduced epidermal barrier function, skin microecological imbalance, inflammatory response, and neurological and vascular hyperreactivity. Furthermore, we analyze the intrinsic connection between these different mechanisms in depth. In response to these mechanisms, this article discusses a series of recommendations for caring for oily sensitive skin. It highlights the differences in skincare compared to dry sensitive skin, emphasizes the importance of choosing effective skincare products, and suggests making adjustments to lifestyle habits. These recommendations aim to improve the quality of life for patients and provide valuable references for practitioners in the field.

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    分析与检测
    高效液相色谱-串联质谱法测定化妆品中禁用磺胺和喹诺酮类化合物
    Simultaneous determination of sulfonamides and quinolones antibiotics in cosmetics by high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry
    杨飘飘,张静雅,刘红,李丽霞
    2024 (8):  997-1007.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.015
    摘要 ( 50 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF(1192KB) ( 51 )  

    建立了高效液相色谱-串联质谱法同时测定化妆品中喹诺酮类、磺胺类等53种抗感染药物的检测方法。样品采用饱和氯化钠分散,体积分数1%甲酸-乙腈溶液超声提取,离心后,以0.1%甲酸水溶液(含1 mmol/L乙酸铵)和0.1%甲酸-甲醇溶液作为流动相,梯度洗脱,并采用电喷雾离子源、正离子多反应监测模式(MRM)测定,外标法定量。结果表明,53种禁用原料线性拟合良好,相关系数大于0.991 0,检出限为0.01~0.1 μg/g,在低、中、高3种加标质量浓度下,磺胺类和喹诺酮类的平均回收率为80.84%~115.09%。筛查的100批次样品中有1批次样品检出磺胺甲噁唑。该方法具有良好灵敏度、选择性和准确性,可用于化妆品中53种抗感染药物测定。

    A method for simultaneous determination of 53 anti-infective drugs such as quinolones and sulfonamides in cosmetics was established by high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS). The samples were dispersed with saturated sodium chloride, extracted by ultrasound with 1% acetonitrile formate solution, and centrifuged. 0.1% Formic acid aqueous solution (containing 1 mmol/L ammonium acetate) and 0.1% formic acid methanol solution were chose as mobile phase, gradient elution was used, and electrospray ion source, positive ion multi-reaction monitoring mode (MRM) were used for determination with quantitative external standard method. The results show that the linear fitting of the 53 banned raw materials is good, with the correlation coefficient greater than 0.991 0, and the detection limit of 0.01-0.1 μg/g. The average recovery rates of sulfonamides and quinolones are 80.84% to 115.09% at low, medium, and high spiked mass concentrations. Among the 100 batches of samples screened, 1 batch is detected to contain sulfamethoxazole. The method has good sensitivity, selectivity and accuracy, and can be used for the determination of 53 anti-infective drugs in cosmetics.

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    顶空气相色谱-质谱联用法同时测定食品用洗涤剂中的三种成分
    Simultaneous determination of three components in food detergents by headspace gas chromatography-mass spectrometry
    张颍,姚晨之,严方,李晓婷
    2024 (8):  1008-1014.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.08.016
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    建立了顶空气相色谱-质谱联用仪(HS-GC-MS)同时测定食品用洗涤中的甲醛、甲醇和1, 4-二噁烷的方法。方法对顶空进样的影响因素进行了单因素方差分析和正交试验,确定最优试验条件;选择强极性色谱柱SH-Rtx-Wax(30 m×0.32 mm×0.25 μm)进行分离;采用选择离子扫描(SIM)模式和外标法定量分析。实验结果表明,甲醛、甲醇和1, 4-二噁烷分别在8~200,8~200和2~50 μg/mL范围内线性关系良好,检出限(LOD)在0.10~0.60 μg/mL,定量限(LOQ)在0.29~1.78 μg/mL;对实际样品添加低、中、高三个水平进行加标回收和精密度试验,加标回收率在84.0%~101.9%,相对标准偏差(RSD)在0.5%~3.7%。该方法操作简单、灵敏度高、重复性好,能够满足食品用洗涤剂中甲醛、甲醇、1, 4-二噁烷同时测定的要求,同时也为我国食品用洗涤剂相关安全指标提供技术依据和参考。

    A method for simultaneous determination of methanal, methanol and 1, 4-dioxane in food detergents by headspace gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (HS-GC-MS) was established. The influencing factors of headspace sampling were analyzed by single factor variance analysis and orthogonal test to determine the optimal conditions. A strong polar column SH-Rtx-Wax (30 m×0.32 mm×0.25 μm) was selected for separation. Selective ion scanning (SIM) mode and external standard method were used for quantitative analysis. The results show that methanal, methanol and 1, 4-dioxane have good linear relationships in the ranges of 8-200 μg/mL, 8-200 μg/mL and 2-50 μg/mL, respectively. The limits of detection (LOD) are 0.10-0.60 μg/mL, and the limits of quantification (LOQ) are 0.29-1.78 μg/mL. The recovery and precision test of the actual samples are carried out at low, medium and high levels. The recovery rate is 84.0%-101.9% and relative standard deviation (RSD) is 0.5%-3.7%. The method is simple, sensitive and reproducible, which can meet the requirements of simultaneous determination of methanal, methanol and 1, 4-dioxane in food detergents, and also provide technical basis and reference for the relevant safety indicators of food detergents in China.

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