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日用化学工业（中英文）

日用化学工业（中英文） ›› 2024, Vol. 54 ›› Issue (9): 1133-1139.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.09.015

• 分析与检测 • 上一篇    下一篇

激光共聚焦拉曼光谱法测定防晒剂经皮渗透作用及其应用研究

谢宇1,2,张少峰3,杨武成4,谢嘉颖1,2,范瑞芳4,谭建华1,2,*()   

  1. 1.广州质量监督检测研究院，广东 广州 511447
    2.广州市NQI-质量安全科技协同创新中心，广东 广州 511447
    3.广州栋方生物科技股份有限公司，广东 广州 510800
    4.华南师范大学，广东 广州 510630
  • 收稿日期:2023-09-22 修回日期:2024-08-26 出版日期:2024-09-22 发布日期:2024-09-26
  • 基金资助:
    广东省药品监督管理局科技创新项目(S2021TDZ140);广州市科技计划项目(2023B04J0407)

Determination of transdermal permeation of sunscreen by confocal Raman spectroscopy and its application

Yu Xie1,2,Shaofeng Zhang3,Wucheng Yang4,Jiaying Xie1,2,Ruifang Fan4,Jianhua Tan1,2,*()   

  1. 1. Guangzhou Quality Supervision and Testing Institute, Guangzhou, Guangdong 511447, China
    2. Guangzhou NQI-Quality and Safety Technology Collaborative Innovation Center, Guangzhou, Guangdong 511447, China
    3. Guangzhou Ridgepole Biological Technology Co., Ltd., Guangzhou, Guangdong 510800, China
    4. South China Normal University, Guangzhou, Guangdong 510630, China
  • Received:2023-09-22 Revised:2024-08-26 Online:2024-09-22 Published:2024-09-26
  • Contact: * E-mail: tanjianhua0734@aliyun.com.

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摘要：

基于激光共聚焦拉曼光谱技术，采用皮肤成分分析仪结合多元线性回归分析方法，建立了皮肤中防晒剂深度分布及经皮渗透量的实时、在体测试方法。以志愿者手臂为实验对象，针对常见的三种防晒剂甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯（OMC）、二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯（DBHB）和乙基己基三嗪酮（EHT），测试并分析了手臂不同皮肤区域经皮渗透能力的一致性，同时比较了不同配方工艺防晒乳的防晒剂经皮渗透作用。结果表明，手臂内侧的不同区域皮肤防晒剂经皮渗透量的相对标准偏差均小于15%，证明可用于不同防晒剂产品的经皮渗透对比；比较油包水防晒乳和纳米乳化工艺的防晒乳中防晒剂的经皮渗透作用，发现经过1 h的皮肤渗透，纳米乳化工艺的防晒乳相比油包水型防晒乳液，三种防晒剂在皮肤的经皮渗透量均降低约60%，而且EHT的经皮渗透深度相对更浅。该方法在防晒剂经皮渗透作用研究中得到了有效的应用，可为化妆品的经皮吸收提供方法参考。

关键词: 拉曼光谱, 在体, 防晒剂, 经皮渗透

Abstract:

Based on laser confocal Raman spectroscopy technology, a real-time in vivo testing method for the depth distribution and transdermal penetration of sunscreen in the stratum corneum of the skin was established using a skin component analyzer combined with multivariate linear regression analysis. Using volunteers’ arms as the experimental subject, the consistency of transdermal penetration ability of three common sunscreen agents, OMC, DBHB, and EHT, was tested and analyzed in different skin regions of the arm. And the transdermal penetration of the sunscreen agents in sunscreen lotions with different formulation was compared. The results indicate that the relative standard deviation of the skin penetration of sunscreen in different areas on the inner side of the arm is less than 15%, indicating that the method is suitable for comparison of the skin penetration of different sunscreen products. After one hour of skin penetration, it is found that the transdermal penetration of the three sunscreen agents in the skin is reduced by about 60%, and the penetration depth of EHT is relatively shallow, when the in oil-in-water sunscreen compared to the nano emulsion sunscreen. This method has been effectively applied in the study of transdermal penetration of sunscreen agents, and can provide methodological references for transdermal absorption of cosmetics.

Key words: Raman spectra, in vivo, sunscreen, transdermal penetration

中图分类号: 

  • TQ658