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日用化学工业 ›› 2020, Vol. 50 ›› Issue (11): 793-798.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2020.11.010

• 专论与综述 • 上一篇    下一篇

化妆品经皮渗透研究进展——评价方法及促渗技术

杨曼丽1,2(),周明月1,2,胡雪情1,2,陈风1,2,何聪芬1,2,贾焱1,2()   

  1. 1.北京工商大学 化学与材料工程学院 中国轻工业化妆品重点实验室,北京 100048
    2.北京工商大学 化学与材料工程学院 北京市植物资源研究开发重点实验室,北京 100048
  • 收稿日期:2020-02-15 修回日期:2020-10-27 出版日期:2020-11-22 发布日期:2020-11-20
  • 通讯作者: 贾焱
  • 作者简介:杨曼丽(1995-),女,山东人,硕士研究生,E-mail: 1830101024@st.btbu.edu.cn

Progress in research of skin permeability of cosmetics Evaluation method and enhancement technology

YANG Man-li1,2(),ZHOU Ming-yue1,2,HU Xue-qing1,2,CHEN Feng1,2,HE Cong-fen1,2,JIA Yan1,2()   

  1. 1. Key Laboratory of Cosmetic, China National Light Industry, College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China
    2. Beijing Key Laboratory of Plants Resource Research and Development, College of Chemistry and Materials Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China
  • Received:2020-02-15 Revised:2020-10-27 Online:2020-11-22 Published:2020-11-20
  • Contact: Yan JIA

摘要:

对于化妆品中应用的经皮递送系统,列举常见的促渗方法,包括化学促渗技术、纳米技术(纳米乳液、纳米晶体、脂质体、类脂囊泡、微胶粒等)、物理促渗技术(离子导入、超声导入、微针)以及生物促渗技术等。对化妆品体外透皮吸收试验方法(体外扩散池法、数学模型、三维皮肤模型、液质联用、拉曼光谱)进行了简单介绍,并对化妆品经皮渗透方法进行了展望。

关键词: 经皮渗透, 评价方法, 3D皮肤, 液质联用, 促渗技术

Abstract:

For the transdermal delivery system used in cosmetics, the common methods for promoting penetration have been listed, including chemical permeation-enhancing techniques, nanotechnology (nanoemulsions, nanocrystals, liposomes, niosomes, micelles, etc.), physical permeation-enhancing techniques (iontophoresis, ultrasonic introduction, and microneedle) and biological permeability-promoting technology. The testing methods of transdermal absorption of cosmetics in vitro (in-vitro diffusion cell method, mathematical model, three-dimensional skin model, LC-MS, and Raman spectroscopy) have been briefly introduced, and the future transdermal penetration methods of cosmetics have been prospected.

Key words: skin permeation, evaluation method, 3D skin, liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry, transdermal enhancement technique

中图分类号: 

  • TQ658