共聚焦拉曼光谱法在β-熊果苷经皮渗透性研究中的应用

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.006

日用化学工业 ›› 2019, Vol. 49 ›› Issue (7): 452-455.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.006

共聚焦拉曼光谱法在β-熊果苷经皮渗透性研究中的应用

刘娟¹,杨丽²,庞建平²,郑洪艳²,贾雪婷²,苏宁¹()

^1. 中国检验检疫科学研究院,北京 100176
^2. 北京中德联合化妆品研究所有限公司,北京 100123

收稿日期:2018-12-24 修回日期:2019-06-24 出版日期:2019-07-25 发布日期:2019-07-26
通讯作者: 苏宁
作者简介:刘娟（1980-）,女,北京人,硕士,电话：（010）85747389,E-mail：liu.juan@caiq-schrader.com.cn。
基金资助:
中国检验检疫科学研究院基本科研业务费专项资助(2017JK030);中国检验检疫科学研究院基本科研业务费专项资助(2017JK013)

Research on skin penetration of β-arbutin by confocal Raman spectroscopy

LIU Juan¹,YANG Li²,PANG Jian-ping²,ZHENG Hong-yan²,JIA Xue-ting²,SU Ning¹()

^1. Chinese Academy of Inspection and Quarantine, Beijing 100176, China
^2. Beijing Sino-German Union Cosmetic Institute Co., Ltd., Beijing 100123, China

Received:2018-12-24 Revised:2019-06-24 Online:2019-07-25 Published:2019-07-26
Contact: Ning SU

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

通过共聚焦拉曼光谱法在体研究了面霜中β-熊果苷在皮肤角质层中的渗透性,得到了使用产品不同时间后β-熊果苷在皮肤中的渗透深度和渗透量,为β-熊果苷等成分经皮渗透性研究提供新的无创在体检测方法。结果表明,5名受试者皮肤角质层厚度为（18.05±2.96）μm,受试者单次使用测试面霜15 min及60 min后β-熊果苷在角质层的渗透量随着时间的延长而逐渐增加,且随着渗透深度的增加而逐渐减少。共聚焦拉曼光谱法是一种在体检测方法,可无创、快速实现目标成分在皮肤中的检测,且能实现皮肤精准深度测量,为化妆品或药物中有效成分的渗透性研究提供新的检测手段。

关键词: 化妆品, 共聚焦拉曼光谱法, β-熊果苷;, 经皮渗透性, 在体检测, 无创

Abstract:

The penetration of β-arbutin in the skin stratum corneum was studied by confocal Raman spectroscopy. This test method obtains the quantity information of penetration depth as well as amount after different application duration, providing a new non-invasive in vivo test method for the skin penetration of β-arbutin. The results show that the stratum corneum thickness of the 5 subjects is（18.05±2.96）μm, and the amount of β-arbutin in the skin increases gradually with duration, while decreases along with the increase of penetration depth after the single use of 15 min and 60 min of the test product. The confocal Raman spectroscopy technique is a novel in vivo test method, with the advantages of non-invasive and rapid detection of target ingredient in the skin. In addition, it measures the accurate skin depth, and provides a new detection method for penetration study of effective ingredients in cosmetics or drugs.

Key words: cosmetics, confocal Raman spectroscopy, β-arbutin;, skin penetration, in vivo methods, non-invasive detection

中图分类号:

TQ658

刘娟,杨丽,庞建平,郑洪艳,贾雪婷,苏宁. 共聚焦拉曼光谱法在β-熊果苷经皮渗透性研究中的应用[J]. 日用化学工业, 2019, 49(7): 452-455.

LIU Juan,YANG Li,PANG Jian-ping,ZHENG Hong-yan,JIA Xue-ting,SU Ning. Research on skin penetration of β-arbutin by confocal Raman spectroscopy[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49(7): 452-455.

图/表 5

参考文献 10

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共聚焦拉曼光谱法在β-熊果苷经皮渗透性研究中的应用

Research on skin penetration of β-arbutin by confocal Raman spectroscopy

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