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2019年, 第49卷, 第7期　刊出日期：2019-07-22 上一期    下一期

基础研究

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不同乙氧基链长香兰素基非离子表面活性剂的起泡性 Foamability of vanillin-based nonionic surfactants with different ethoxy chain length 李居龙,丁凤美,周翔,邢志奇,赵涛 2019 (7):  419-425.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.001 摘要 ( 382 )   HTML ( 136 )   PDF(1719KB) ( 424 )   对乙氧基链段（EO）数为8,10,12的香兰素基聚氧乙烯醚（VAEO）进行起泡实验,并以10 EO的壬基酚聚氧乙烯醚（NPEO10）为参照研究起泡性。结果表明,VAEO系列起泡性较差,且EO数越多起泡性越差;同一种表面活性剂,起泡能力随浓度的增加先增加后减小;通过分析VAEO和NPEO10前期（小于500 ms）动态表面张力与静态表面张力差值,发现VAEO的差值较小,导致恢复力小,起泡性较差。利用分子动力学模拟NPEO10和VAEO8在水中聚集和迁移情况,并结合100 ms内的动态表面张力,探究分子结构对起泡性的影响。结果表明,VAEO8在水中的聚集倾向较低,起泡时可以吸附于气/液界面的溶质更多,液膜的界面张力下降更快,对起泡不利。 The vanillin-based polyoxyethylene ethers（VAEO）with ethoxylated（EO）segments of 8, 10 and 12 EO units were studied by the foaming test. Nonylphenol ethoxylate with 10 EO units（NPEO10）was also investigated for comparison. The results show that the foamability of VAEO series is poor, and the foamability even becomes worse with the increase of EO number. For the same surfactant, the foamability first increases and then decreases with the increase of concentration. By analyzing the dynamic surface tension data in the early stage（less than 500 ms）and the static surface tension data of VAEO and NPEO10, it was found that the difference between static and dynamic surface tension was small, indicating that the restoring force was small and the foamability of the VAEO series was poor. Molecular dynamics were used to simulate the aggregation and migration of NPEO10 and VAEO8 in water, by which the effects of molecular structure on foamability were explored in combination with the dynamic surface tension within 100 ms. The results show that, the lower tendency of VAEO8 for aggregation in water makes it adsorb to the gas-liquid interface more easily during foaming, resulting in a low dynamic surface tension value, which is not good for foamability. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

科技讲座

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表面活性剂-纳米颗粒相互作用与智能体系的构建（I）——开关性或刺激-响应性表面活性剂与智能表面活性剂体系 The interactions between surfactants and nanoparticles and the construction of smart systems（I）——Switchable or stimuli-responsive surfactants and smart surfactant systems 蒋建中,余诗洁,崔正刚 2019 (7):  426-434.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.002 摘要 ( 455 )   HTML ( 19 )   PDF(1760KB) ( 381 )   表面活性剂是重要的化工产品之一,在日化产品、工业技术、高新技术以及生命科学等众多领域中有着重要的应用。如何对表面活性剂的结构、功能及性质进行调控以及使表面活性剂能够循环利用是当前表面活性剂领域的研究热点,而开关性或刺激-响应性表面活性剂正是解决这些问题的钥匙。本讲座介绍了开关性或刺激-响应性表面活性剂的基础知识,主要包括响应基团和触发机制的种类,重点介绍了pH、CO2/N2、光、氧化-还原、磁以及温度等6大类开关性或刺激-响应性表面活性剂。 Surfactants are one of the important chemical products, which have important applications in the fields of daily chemicals, industry, high technology and life science. It is a hot research topic to control the structure, function and properties of surfactants and to realize their cycle utilization, whereas switchable or stimuli-responsive surfactants have given a key to solve these problems. In this lecture, the fundamental knowledge of switchable or stimuli-responsive surfactants and relative smart systems have been introduced, focusing on various responsive groups and triggers including pH, CO2/N2, light, redox, magnetism and temperature. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

开发与应用

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不同结构表面活性剂在有机非水相中的发泡性能研究 Investigation on the foaming properties of surfactants with different structure in organic solvents 燕永利 2019 (7):  435-440.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.003 摘要 ( 435 )   HTML ( 11 )   PDF(951KB) ( 633 )   研究不同有机非水相溶剂在不同结构类型表面活性剂作用下的起泡性能。利用泡沫衰减法测定不同有机非水相溶液体系的发泡体积和泡沫稳定性,并分析其表面张力、黏度、溶剂极性对有机非水相溶液体系起泡性能的影响。结果表明,无论阴离子、非离子,还是两性表面活性剂在正构烷烃和芳香烃溶剂中均不起泡,只有部分在液体石蜡和甘油中产生泡沫。液体石蜡和甘油中所形成的泡沫含气率分别为66.6%~83.3%和72.2%~83.7%,半衰期分别为0.21~1.44 min和1.79~16.69 min,其中发泡剂AEO-3和OBS分别在液体石蜡和甘油溶剂中发泡性能较佳。研究发现有机非水相溶剂极性越大,其溶液起泡性能愈佳;而有机非水相表面活性剂溶液黏度仅与泡沫稳定性有关,非水相溶液体系表面张力的降低与其发泡性能之间未能展现出密切的关联。 The foaming properties for various organic solvents in the presence of surfactants with diverse structure were investigated. The foam volume and foam stability were determined by a foam attenuation method. The effects of surface tension, viscosity and solvent polarity on foaming properties were also analyzed. The experimental results showed that the anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants under investigation could not produce foams in n-alkanes and aromatic hydrocarbons, while some of them only form foams in liquid paraffin and glycerin. The volume fractions of gas in foams for liquid paraffin and glycerin range from 66.6% to 83.3% and 72.2% to 83.7%, respectively, while the half-lives range from 0.21 to 1.44 min and 1.79 to 16.69 min, respectively. The best foaming agents are AEO-3 for liquid paraffin and OBS for glycerin. It can be concluded that the greater the polarity of the organic solvent, the better is its foaming capacity. The viscosity is only related to the stability of the foam formed from these solutions, and it is found that the decrease of surface tension of the non-aqueous solutions is not closely related to its foaming performance. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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极地雪藻提取物对皮肤UVB损伤的修复作用研究 A study of alleviative effects of Chlamydomonas nivalis extract on skin damage caused by UVB 罗文倩,黄国猛,张谦华,邓文娟,林丽,杜志云 2019 (7):  441-445.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.004 摘要 ( 738 )   HTML ( 10 )   PDF(1793KB) ( 801 )   研究了极地雪藻提取物对氧化应激下成纤维细胞（NIH-3T3细胞）的保护作用及UVB辐射造成的皮肤光损伤的修复作用。采用MTT法测试极地雪藻提取物细胞毒性,通过给药后过氧化氢细胞损伤模型的存活率评价其对NIH-3T3细胞的保护作用;利用UVB辐射昆明鼠剃毛区皮肤28天造模,造模成功后涂抹药物,通过H&E染色、胶原纤维染色（Masson染色）与免疫组化染色（IHC染色）检测IL-1、IL-6、TNF-α以评价其对UVB光损伤皮肤的修复作用。结果显示,极地雪藻提取物对NIH-3T3细胞没有明显的细胞毒性,并且能提高氧化应激状态下的NIH-3T3细胞存活率;H&E染色显示,UVB辐射小鼠皮肤导致皮肤表皮厚度增加,皮肤胶原量减少;IHC研究表明炎症因子IL-1、IL-6、TNF-α表达量增加;模型给药后,表皮厚度恢复正常,胶原量增加,IL-1、IL-6、TNF-α表达量降低。极地雪藻提取物对氧化应激下的NIH-3T3细胞有保护作用,并可以修复UVB辐射造成的皮肤损伤;推测极地雪藻的修复作用可能是通过对氧化应激和炎症反应的调节起作用。 The protective effects of Chlamydomonas nivalis extract on NIH-3T3 cells under the oxidative stress and skin photodamage induced by UVB were evaluated. The cytotoxicity of the extract and the protective effect against hydrogen peroxide on NIH-3T3 cells were evaluated by MTT method. Chlamydomonas nivalis extract was applied to the dorsal skin of mice after UVB irradiation daily for 28 days to complete the photoaging model. Moreover, the skin was analyzed by H&E staining and Masson staining, then the expression of IL-1, IL-6 and TNF-α was analyzed by immunohistochemistry（IHC）. The results show that Chlamydomonas nivalis extract exhibits no obvious cytotoxicity for NIH-3T3 cells and increases the cell vitality under the oxidative stress. In animal experiment, the results of H&E staining show that UVB irradiation induces epidermis thickening and the collagen decreasing. The extract recovers the epidermis thickness and the collagen is increased. The increase of TNF-α and interleukin including IL-1 and IL-6 were induced by UVB, as shown in IHC results. The extract is shown to decrease the expression quantities of IL-1, IL-6 and TNF-α. Chlamydomonas nivalis extract protects the NIH-3T3 cells from oxidative stress induced by hydrogen peroxide and repairs the skin damage from UVB irradiation. It is speculated that the alleviative efficacy of Chlamydomonas nivalis extract may work by regulating oxidative stress and inflammation. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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杜仲板皮多糖的超声波辅助提取及脱色工艺 Ultrasonic-assisted extraction and decolorization of polysaccharides from the bark of Eucommia ulmoides Oliver. 杨申明,王振吉,王浩华,张甜 2019 (7):  446-451.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.005 摘要 ( 298 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(963KB) ( 358 )   以杜仲板皮为试材,用超声波辅助提取其多糖。以多糖提取率为评价指标,在单因素试验的基础上,通过正交试验对杜仲板皮多糖提取工艺进行优化;以脱色率和多糖保留率为考察指标,利用正交试验优化活性炭脱除杜仲板皮多糖中色素的工艺。结果表明,杜仲板皮多糖的较佳提取工艺为：液料比30∶1（mL ∶g）,超声温度50 ℃,超声功率400 W,超声时间30 min。在此条件下,杜仲板皮多糖的平均提取率为2.16%,相对标准偏差（RSD）为1.86%。杜仲板皮多糖活性炭法脱色的较优组合为：活性炭用量0.6%（m/m）,脱色温度60 ℃,脱色时间50 min,脱色溶液pH=5.0。在此条件下进行脱色处理,平均脱色率为76.20%,RSD为2.46%;多糖平均保留率为62.68%,RSD为2.35%。 The polysaccharides from the bark of Eucommia ulmoides Oliver. were extracted by ultrasonic-assisted extraction. With the extraction rate of polysaccharides as the evaluation index, on the basis of single factor experiment, the extraction process of polysaccharides from the bark ofEucommia ulmoides Oliver. was optimized by orthogonal test; with the decolorization rate and the retention rate of polysaccharides as the evaluation indexes, the process of removing pigment in the polysaccharides extracted from the bark of Eucommia ulmoides Oliver. by activated carbon was optimized by orthogonal test. The results showed the optimum extraction technology of polysaccharides from the bark of Eucommia ulmoides Oliver., in which the liquid-solid ratio was 30∶1（mL∶g）, the ultrasonic temperature was 50 ℃, the ultrasonic power was 400 W, and the ultrasonic time was 30 min. Under these conditions, the average extraction rate of polysaccharides from the bark of Eucommia ulmoides Oliver. is 2.16%, and the relative standard deviation（RSD）is 1.86%. The optimum conditions for decolorization of polysaccharides from the bark of Eucommia ulmoides Oliver. by activated carbon method are as follows: the dosage of activated carbon is 0.60%（m/m）, the decolorization temperature is 60 ℃, the decolorization time is 50 min, and the pH of decolorization solution is 5.0. Under these conditions, the average decolorization rate is 76.20%, and the RSD is 2.46%; the average retention rate of polysaccharides is 62.68%, and the RSD is 2.35%. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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共聚焦拉曼光谱法在β-熊果苷经皮渗透性研究中的应用 Research on skin penetration of β-arbutin by confocal Raman spectroscopy 刘娟,杨丽,庞建平,郑洪艳,贾雪婷,苏宁 2019 (7):  452-455.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.006 摘要 ( 502 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF(1106KB) ( 387 )   通过共聚焦拉曼光谱法在体研究了面霜中β-熊果苷在皮肤角质层中的渗透性,得到了使用产品不同时间后β-熊果苷在皮肤中的渗透深度和渗透量,为β-熊果苷等成分经皮渗透性研究提供新的无创在体检测方法。结果表明,5名受试者皮肤角质层厚度为（18.05±2.96）μm,受试者单次使用测试面霜15 min及60 min后β-熊果苷在角质层的渗透量随着时间的延长而逐渐增加,且随着渗透深度的增加而逐渐减少。共聚焦拉曼光谱法是一种在体检测方法,可无创、快速实现目标成分在皮肤中的检测,且能实现皮肤精准深度测量,为化妆品或药物中有效成分的渗透性研究提供新的检测手段。 The penetration of β-arbutin in the skin stratum corneum was studied by confocal Raman spectroscopy. This test method obtains the quantity information of penetration depth as well as amount after different application duration, providing a new non-invasive in vivo test method for the skin penetration of β-arbutin. The results show that the stratum corneum thickness of the 5 subjects is（18.05±2.96）μm, and the amount of β-arbutin in the skin increases gradually with duration, while decreases along with the increase of penetration depth after the single use of 15 min and 60 min of the test product. The confocal Raman spectroscopy technique is a novel in vivo test method, with the advantages of non-invasive and rapid detection of target ingredient in the skin. In addition, it measures the accurate skin depth, and provides a new detection method for penetration study of effective ingredients in cosmetics or drugs. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

专论与综述

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染发产品中准用染发剂的检测方法和使用情况研究进展 Research progress on detection and application of permitted hair dyes in hair-dyeing cosmetics 顾宇翔,郑翌,顾澄皓 2019 (7):  456-463.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.007 摘要 ( 508 )   HTML ( 8 )   PDF(794KB) ( 543 )   概述了染发产品的种类、安全风险和《化妆品安全技术规范》（2015年版）对准用染发剂的规定,介绍目前检测标准和文献方法所涵盖的准用染发剂范围,综述了液相色谱、液相色谱-质谱、气相色谱、气相色谱-质谱等方法在染发剂测定上的应用情况及其优劣,并对近年来国内市场上染发产品中准用染发剂的使用情况进行了分析,最后提出了染发剂检测技术的发展趋势。 The categories and safety risks of hair-dyeing cosmetics, and the provision of permitted hair dyes in “Cosmetics Safety Technical Specifications”（2015 Edition）were presented. The detection standards and cutting-edge report methods referring the specific hair dyes which were legally permitted in the hair-dying products were introduced. The advantages and disadvantages of various detection methods were introduced, including HPLC, HPLC-MS, GC, GC-MS and etc. The article focused on the usage of permitted hair dyes in hair-dyeing cosmetics in the domestic market in recent year. Finally, the development trend of hair dye detection methods was proposed. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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酶促合成烷基糖苷 Enzymatic synthesis of alkyl glycosides 王迪,吴令帆,崔励 2019 (7):  464-469.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.008 摘要 ( 375 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF(923KB) ( 809 )   综述了生物法合成烷基糖苷,包括糖苷酶选择、酶促糖苷化、烷基糖苷的酶促合成等几个方面。与传统化学合成法相比,烷基糖苷的酶促合成提供了极好的环保升级替代方案,具有较大的利用潜能和广阔前景。未来烷基糖苷的酶促合成可以通过开发新型基因工程菌,采用全细胞催化的方法,进行工业化放大研究。 The biological synthesis of alkyl glycosides, including glycosidase selection, enzymatic glycosidation, enzymatic synthesis of alkyl glycosides, were reviewed. Compared with conventional chemical synthesis methods, enzymatic synthesis of alkyl glycosides provides an excellent alternative to environmental protection upgrading, and has great potential for exploitation and broad prospects. The enzymatic synthesis of alkyl glycosides in the future can be industrialized by the development of new genetic engineering enzymes using whole-cell catalysis 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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自然元素在化妆品包装设计中的展现——基于自然关联性的角度 The display of natural elements in cosmetic packaging design Based on the perspective of natural relevance 戎喜平,薄慧鹏 2019 (7):  470-475.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.009 摘要 ( 523 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF(845KB) ( 506 )   文章从众多化妆品包装设计创意元素中选取自然元素为研究对象,研究自然元素在化妆品包装设计中的展现,全面挖掘化妆品包装视觉形象设计的要素,从图形、色彩、语言与文字符号、包装材料四个方面阐述自然元素在化妆品包装设计中的体现,最后通过五个流程化的设计方法提炼自然元素融入化妆品包装设计的创新路径,实现包装设计方法的可操作性和科学性。 The paper selects natural elements from many creative elements of cosmetic packaging design as the research object, studies the display of natural elements in cosmetic packaging design, and comprehensively excavates the elements of the visual image design for cosmetic packaging. The embodiment of natural elements in cosmetic packaging design is explained from the four aspects: graphics, color, language and text symbols, packaging materials. Finally, the five process-based design methods refine the natural elements into the innovative path of cosmetic packaging design, and realize the operability and scientificity of packaging design methods. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

分析与检测

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特殊烫发类产品中的巯基乙酸含量检测分析 Detection and analysis of thioglycolic acid contents in special hair perm products 刘齐,杨玲,刘成浩,韩萧茜,张华珺 2019 (7):  476-479.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.010 摘要 ( 455 )   HTML ( 1 )   PDF(1063KB) ( 326 )   采用高效液相色谱法、离子色谱-电导检测器法及离子色谱-紫外检测器法对48批特殊烫发类产品中的巯基乙酸含量进行检测,研究了3种检测方法之间的差异及适用性,得到了48批烫发类产品中巯基乙酸的整体添加数据,并对添加趋势进行了分析。结果表明,离子色谱-紫外检测器法可以有效排除杂质干扰,且方法学与现有《化妆品安全技术规范》（2015年版）中巯基乙酸的检测方法无明显差异,建议作为补充方法;特殊烫发类产品中巯基乙酸的含量均符合市场行业制定的添加含量上限标准。 Thioglycolic acid contents in 48 batches of special hair perm products were detected by HPLC, ion chromatography-conductivity detector and ion chromatography-UV detector. The differences and applicability of the three detection methods were studied. The overall adding data of thioglycolic acid in 48 batches of hair perm products was obtained, and the adding trend was analyzed. The results show that the ion chromatography-UV detector method can effectively eliminate the interference of impurities, and it is similar as the detection method of thioglycolic acid in the current “Safety and Technical Standards for Cosmetics”（2015 edition）. It is recommended as a supplementary method. The contents of thioglycolic acid in all special hair perm products meet the upper limit standard established by the industry. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标

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超高效液相色谱测定化妆品中11种植物美白成分 Determination of 11 kinds of plant whitening ingredients in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography 高俊飞,朱荃,段婷婷,肖树雄 2019 (7):  480-484.  doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.011 摘要 ( 466 )   HTML ( 9 )   PDF(978KB) ( 578 )   采用超高效液相色谱法测定不同种类化妆品中11种植物美白成分的含量。样品用体积分数为50%甲醇提取,经Agilent Eclipse色谱柱（100 mm×2.1 mm,1.8 μm）分离,流动相采用甲醇-体积分数0.1%磷酸水溶液梯度洗脱,280和237 nm波长同时检测,柱温30 ℃。结果表明,11种植物美白成分在进样范围内线性关系良好,相关系数均大于0.999;水、面膜、乳3种不同基质中的平均加样回收率分别为98.57%~103.44%,95.09%~112.43%和92.90%~104.21%,RSD分别为0.42%~2.96%,0.98%~2.21%和0.79%~2.67%。结果表明方法具有较高的重现性和耐用性,可用于同时检测化妆品中11种植物美白成分。 UPLC method was established for determination of 11 kinds of plant whitening ingredients in cosmetics. Samples were extracted by 50% methanol, then separated by Agilent Eclipse column（100 mm×2.1 mm, 1.8 μm）using methanol and the aqueous solution of 0.1% phosphoric acid as mobile phase with gradient elution. The detection wavelengths were 280 and 237 nm, and the column temperature was 30 ℃. All of the calibration curves show good linear relationship in the range of injection volume and all the correlation coefficients are above 0.999; the average recoveries of astringent, milk and facial mask are in the range of 98.57%~103.44%, 95.09%~112.43% and 92.90%~104.21% respectively, with RSD of 0.42%~2.96%, 0.98%~2.21% and 0.79%~2.67% respectively. The method shows good reproducibility and durability. It can be used for simultaneous determination of 11 kinds of plant whitening ingredients in cosmetics. 数据和表 | 参考文献 | 相关文章 | 计量指标