超高效液相色谱测定化妆品中11种植物美白成分

doi:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2019.07.011

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

采用超高效液相色谱法测定不同种类化妆品中11种植物美白成分的含量。样品用体积分数为50%甲醇提取,经Agilent Eclipse色谱柱（100 mm×2.1 mm,1.8 μm）分离,流动相采用甲醇-体积分数0.1%磷酸水溶液梯度洗脱,280和237 nm波长同时检测,柱温30 ℃。结果表明,11种植物美白成分在进样范围内线性关系良好,相关系数均大于0.999;水、面膜、乳3种不同基质中的平均加样回收率分别为98.57%~103.44%,95.09%~112.43%和92.90%~104.21%,RSD分别为0.42%~2.96%,0.98%~2.21%和0.79%~2.67%。结果表明方法具有较高的重现性和耐用性,可用于同时检测化妆品中11种植物美白成分。

关键词: 美白成分, 化妆品, 超高效液相色谱

Abstract:

UPLC method was established for determination of 11 kinds of plant whitening ingredients in cosmetics. Samples were extracted by 50% methanol, then separated by Agilent Eclipse column（100 mm×2.1 mm, 1.8 μm）using methanol and the aqueous solution of 0.1% phosphoric acid as mobile phase with gradient elution. The detection wavelengths were 280 and 237 nm, and the column temperature was 30 ℃. All of the calibration curves show good linear relationship in the range of injection volume and all the correlation coefficients are above 0.999; the average recoveries of astringent, milk and facial mask are in the range of 98.57%~103.44%, 95.09%~112.43% and 92.90%~104.21% respectively, with RSD of 0.42%~2.96%, 0.98%~2.21% and 0.79%~2.67% respectively. The method shows good reproducibility and durability. It can be used for simultaneous determination of 11 kinds of plant whitening ingredients in cosmetics.

Key words: whitening ingredient, cosmetics, ultra performance liquid chromatography

中图分类号:

TQ658

高俊飞,朱荃,段婷婷,肖树雄. 超高效液相色谱测定化妆品中11种植物美白成分[J]. 日用化学工业, 2019, 49(7): 480-484.

GAO Jun-fei,ZHU Quan,DUAN Ting-ting,XIAO Shu-xiong. Determination of 11 kinds of plant whitening ingredients in cosmetics by ultra performance liquid chromatography[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2019, 49(7): 480-484.

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对照品	m（称样量）/mg	V（定容）/mL	ρ（单标储备液）/ （mg·L^-1）	V（移取）/mL	ρ（混合标准储备液）/ （mg·L^-1）
甘草素	10.45	50	209.0	5	20.90
甘草苷	12.14	50	242.8	5	24.28
甘草酸二钾	9.76	50	195.2	5	19.52
光甘草定	10.26	50	205.2	5	20.52
丹皮酚	10.03	50	200.6	2.5	10.03
芍药苷	10.86	50	217.2	5	21.72
儿茶素	10.10	50	202.0	5	20.20
EGCG	12.71	50	254.2	5	25.42
黄芩素	10.72	50	214.4	2.5	10.72
黄芩苷	10.78	50	215.6	2.5	10.78
汉黄芩素	10.74	50	214.8	2.5	10.74

编号	成分	回归方程	r	线性范围/（mg·L^-1）	检测限/ng	定量限/ng
1	儿茶素	y=14.035 7 x+3.418 6	0.999 2	0.505~10.10	0.063 1	0.126 3
2	EGCG	y=24.661 0 x-4.343 4	0.999 0	0.635 5~12.71	0.079 4	0.158 8
3	芍药苷	y=26.333 8 x+1.495 4	0.999 6	0.543~10.86	0.067 9	0.135 8
4	甘草苷	y=31.623 1 x+3.725 3	0.999 5	0.607~12.14	0.075 9	0.151 7
5	甘草素	y=58.988 6 x+4.100 4	0.999 5	0.522 5~10.45	0.032 7	0.065 3
6	黄芩苷	y=49.324 7 x-3.158 2	0.999 0	0.269 5~5.39	0.065 3	0.130 6
7	丹皮酚	y=82.595 7 x+5.149 5	0.999 5	0.250 75~5.015	0.015 7	0.031 3
8	黄芩素	y=68.053 4 x-4.643 5	0.999 3	0.268~5.36	0.335 0	0.067 0
9	汉黄芩素	y=88.636 4 x+2.898 4	0.999 6	0.268 5~5.37	0.016 8	0.033 6
10	甘草酸二钾	y=11.356 5 x+0.129 6	0.999 0	0.488~9.76	0.244 0	0.488 0
11	光甘草定	y=56.048 0 x+6.080 5	0.999 1	0.513~10.26	0.032 1	0.064 1

编号	物质	空白基质	回收率/%	平均回收率/%	RSD/%
1	儿茶素	水	102.60~103.72	103.28	0.42
		面膜	108.65~112.41	110.65	1.32
		乳	99.27~106.59	104.21	2.52
2	EGCG	水	99.65~102.44	100.96	1.19
		面膜	110.93~115.87	112.43	1.81
		乳	91.73~94.19	92.90	1.06
3	芍药苷	水	99.11~101.07	100.18	0.74
		面膜	100.36~103.58	101.85	1.35
		乳	97.29~102.17	99.94	1.72
4	甘草苷	水	101.87~104.00	103.31	0.75
		面膜	102.66~106.11	104.16	1.32
		乳	99.21~103.15	101.53	1.46
5	甘草素	水	100.17~102.03	101.41	0.69
		面膜	101.45~105.03	102.78	1.41
		乳	99.50~101.58	100.63	0.87
6	黄芩苷	水	101.72~104.02	102.80	0.79
		面膜	96.56~99.62	97.74	1.31
		乳	100.90~102.51	101.74	0.79
7	丹皮酚	水	101.58~103.28	102.63	0.63
		面膜	101.44~104.56	102.54	1.34
		乳	98.64~104.30	100.38	2.05
8	黄芩素	水	97.37~106.41	101.64	2.96
		面膜	94.83~100.45	97.87	2.21
		乳	100.56~104.81	102.81	1.60
9	汉黄芩素	水	101.41~103.46	102.42	0.65
		面膜	102.16~105.73	103.41	1.49
		乳	99.89~102.00	101.14	0.89
10	甘草酸二钾	水	95.05~101.35	98.57	2.66
		面膜	93.95~96.37	95.09	0.98
		乳	99.53~106.54	103.12	2.67
11	光甘草定	水	101.93~105.05	103.44	1.21
		面膜	103.14~108.49	105.57	2.17
		乳	99.72~104.77	101.39	1.77