头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅵ）——头皮油脂的特点及调控手段

doi:10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2023.06.004

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

头皮健康日益成为消费者选择发用产品时的关注重点，而头皮油脂是影响头皮健康的关键因素之一。皮脂本身是头皮屏障的重要组分部分，起着保护皮肤、保存水分、维持皮肤稳态等作用，由皮脂腺分泌。皮脂腺位于真皮层，通过全浆分泌产生皮脂，皮脂腺上存在着大量受体，受多种机制调控，其功能的异常会导致多种皮脂腺疾病，引发一系列的头皮健康问题。本文概述了皮脂和皮脂腺的功能及特点，介绍了当前几种皮脂调控理论，并对皮脂分泌的实验评价方法进行概述，总结了市面上控油产品原料及其机理，旨在为皮脂腺相关功能的皮肤护理问题和控油产品的开发解决提供参考依据。

关键词: 皮脂, 皮脂腺, 调控途径, 评价方法, 控油

Abstract:

Scalp health has been increasingly focused by the consumers while choosing hair products. Scalp sebum is one of the key factors affecting scalp health. Sebum is an important component of the scalp barrier, which plays the roles of protecting the skin, preserving moisture and maintaining skin homeostasis. It is secreted by the sebaceous glands. Sebaceous glands are located in the dermis and produce sebum through holocrine secretion. There are a large number of receptors on sebaceous glands, which are regulated by a variety of mechanisms. Abnormality in functions of sebaceous glands can lead to a variety of diseases and a series of scalp health problems. Herein, the functions and characteristics of sebum and sebaceous glands are summarized. Several current theories of sebum regulation are introduced. The experimental evaluation methods of sebum secretion are summarized. The raw materials of oil-control products on the market and their mechanisms are also summarized, which might provide reference both for the skin care problems related to the functions of sebaceous glands and the development of oil-control products.

Key words: sebum, glandula sebacea, regulate and control, evaluation method, oil control

中图分类号:

TQ658

万凯波, 马玲, 陈殿松, 常宽, 王靖. 头发与头皮护理的科学基础（Ⅵ）——头皮油脂的特点及调控手段[J]. 日用化学工业（中英文）, 2023, 53(6): 634-641.

Wan Kaibo, Ma Ling, Chen Timson, Chang Kuan, Wang Jing. Scientific foundations of hair and scalp care （Ⅵ）Characteristics and regulation of scalp sebum[J]. China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2023, 53(6): 634-641.

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	控油原料	控油原理	参考文献
清洁吸附类	深海泥、硅藻土、表面活性剂	清除已产生的皮脂	[44]
抑制微生物类	ZPT、二硫化硒	抑制痤疮丙酸杆菌、马拉色菌的定殖	[45,46]
锌剂	酵母菌/锌发酵产物、PCA锌、透明质酸锌	锌可能具有抗雄激素活性，抑制皮脂过度产生	[47,48]
植物提取类	黄酮、皂苷、多酚	拮抗雄激素、抑制5-α还原酶、作用于相应的受体和通路	[35?-37]
维生素类	VB3及其衍生物、Vc	紧致肌肤、缩小毛孔的、抑制以葡萄糖底物合成脂质的反应	[49,50]
酸类	维A酸及其衍生物、壬二酸、水杨酸	作用于相应的受体、对角质的形成增生起到抑制作用、限制皮脂腺的分化	[51?-53]