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日用化学工业（中英文）

日用化学工业（中英文） ›› 2024, Vol. 54 ›› Issue (4): 401-409.doi: 10.3969/j.issn.2097-2806.2024.04.005

• 开发与应用 • 上一篇    下一篇

拉曼光谱研究表面活性剂对皮肤刺激和皮肤防护的体内分子机制

何一凡1,吴文海2,苏牧楠2,蒋晓龙3,刘宇红3,*()   

  1. 1.北京工商大学 轻工科学与工程学院，北京 100048
    2.太和康美（北京）中医研究院有限公司，北京 102401
    3.北京东方淼森生物科技有限公司，北京 101200
  • 收稿日期:2023-10-29 修回日期:2024-03-22 出版日期:2024-04-22 发布日期:2024-04-26

In vivo molecular mechanism of surfactant-induced skin irritation and skin protection by confocal Raman spectroscopy

Yifan He1,Wenhai Wu2,Munan Su2,Xiaolong Jiang3,Yuhong Liu3,*()   

  1. 1. School of Light Industry Science and Engineering, Beijing Technology and Business University, Beijing 100048, China
    2. Beijing Academy of TCM Beauty Supplements Co., Ltd., Beijing 102401, China
    3. Nutri-Woods Bio-Tech （Beijing） Co., Ltd., Beijing 101200, China
  • Received:2023-10-29 Revised:2024-03-22 Online:2024-04-22 Published:2024-04-26
  • Contact: *Tel.: +86-13601226887, E-mail: liuyuhongc@163.com.

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摘要：

为了更好地研究表面活性剂对皮肤损伤和皮肤防护的分子机制，需要研究人（内源性物质和结构）、物质（刺激物和抗刺激活性物）、以及人与物质的相互作用。然而，在人体上分子水平的机制研究报道很少。共聚焦拉曼光谱可以开展此类研究，因其可以在体、实时和非侵入式地测定角质层中的某些内源性或外源性物质，并分析角质层结构。文章以十二烷基硫酸钠（SDS）作为刺激剂，通过共聚焦拉曼光谱扫描志愿者前臂屈侧皮肤12 μm深度内，定性和半定量地测量SDS经皮吸收的相对量和深度，以及SDS“入侵”时皮肤脂质相对含量和结构的变化。结果表明，SDS经皮吸收进入角质层，导致角质层脂质流失和脂质有序性降低。据报道刺激物的进入量和深度是影响皮肤刺激程度的两个主要因素，文章首次在人体上通过SDS给予证实；此外，文章首次发现SDS引起的人体皮肤屏障损伤的第三个因素，我们称之为“刺激传导网络”，即SDS对皮肤的损伤不仅局限于其所到之处，“刺激传导网络”可以将刺激损伤传递到SDS未到达的更深更远处。通过拉曼光谱对皮肤内部进行研究，并结合体外手段例如3D皮肤等，结果一致，进而提出了“现实世界发生的”SDS诱导皮肤损伤的分子学机制。根据该机制设计的表面活性剂拮抗剂简称ASF，数据显示，可以有效阻挡SDS的经皮吸收，进而有效阻止皮肤脂质流失和脂质有序性的降低，对皮肤屏障的保护效果很好，为表面活性剂在人体刺激机制以及保护机制提供进一步佐证。

关键词: 在体研究表面活性剂皮肤刺激的分子机制, 皮肤防护, 共聚焦拉曼光谱

Abstract:

To better understand the molecular mechanism of surfactant-induced skin damage and skin protection, human （skin endogenous）, exogenous substances （irritant and active ingredient against irritant）, and the interaction between them need to be explored simultaneously. However, there are few reports in real-time of the mechanism at molecular level on humans. Confocal Raman spectroscopy allows such investigation with in vivo, real-time, non-invasive analysis of both substances （endogenous or exogenous） in stratum corneum （SC） and the structure of SC. In this study, the relative amount and depth of transdermal absorption of sodium dodecyl sulfate （SDS） chosen as surfactant representative, and the changes in relative content and structure of skin lipids upon SDS invasion were measured qualitatively and semi-quantitatively by scanning volunteers’ skin of volar forearm at the depth of 0-12 μm with confocal Roman spectrometer. It showed that SDS was absorbed in SC, causing its lipid loss and lipid order reduction. The evidence that the amount and depth of irritant are two main factors affecting the extent of stimulation in skin was provided based on human data for the first time. The third factor, which could enhance SDS-induced barrier damage called the “conduction network of stimuli” was found in humans for the first time. The results of skin interior studied by Raman spectroscopy, combined with other techniques, including 3D skin model, Skin Surface Analyzer etc., all were in good agreement, which came to the molecular mechanism of SDS-induced skin/barrier damage and skin protection of what happened in the real world. The proposals were confirmed by the efficacy of surfactant antagonist called ASF thus designed by the fact that compared with the absence of antagonist, the damage to the skin barrier function caused by SDS could be reduced efficiently.

Key words: in vivo study on molecular mechanism of skin irritation by surfactant, skin protection, confocal Raman spectroscopy

中图分类号: 

  • TQ423